# Forum Home Renovation Tools & Products  Slide compound mitre saw, which one to buy?

## Jedwards

Hi everyone, I am currently looking at getting a decent mitre/ drop saw as I am sick of making a straight edge and fiddling around with a circular saw. Looking forward to getting some very accurate cuts! What I would like to know if anyone can help is what is the benefits of having a slide saw as opposed to a drop one. Also looking at getting a makita LS1018L which has a 260mm blade. Is this enough to cut 100x100 posts? I would assume yes but could someone confirm? Any thoughts on makita vs Xceed? Xceed being a brand that home hardware sells. There is a saw of comparable size to the makita but 400 dollars in difference. Or is this a case of you get what you pay for?Thanks very much for any feedback

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## Godzilla73

G'day, 
The Makita jobbie you're looking at only has 91mm depth of cut, as has been discussed on here just recently the Makita tools from Japan are better quality then those from China. They are still great for home/diy but struggle in the trade, and are way better than a no name saw. 
Sliding compound saws have better cutting stroke, 310mm for the LS1018L where as a drop saw would be 160mm ish. The bevel cut left and right is great too, a purpose built stand is handy as well.

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## Jedwards

Thanks, that makes my decision a bit easier.

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## shauck

If you want Makita, go for the LS1216 or LS1216L (laser). Will easily cut through 100x100. I have one about 5-6 years old. Finally got the blade sharpened the other day (after years of use) and it cuts like butter again Also pretty accurate. (Should have done that long ago - slack) Did have the mitre lock fixed recently as the spring and it's bits n pieces had come loose. The new one looks different from the pics online so can't comment on it's sturdiness. All round, I like it.

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## ringtail

> If you want Makita, go for the LS1216 or LS1216L (laser). Will easily cut through 100x100. I have one about 5-6 years old. Finally got the blade sharpened the other day (after years of use) and it cuts like butter again Also pretty accurate. (Should have done that long ago - slack) Did have the mitre lock fixed recently as the spring and it's bits n pieces had come loose. The new one looks different from the pics online so can't comment on it's sturdiness. All round, I like it.

  
 I must admit, one of my biggest regrets was getting a 10 inch over the 12. A couple of hundred more for the 12 inch is well worth it. Lugging it in and out of the van was the main reason I went for the 10 inch. Either way, I wouldn't buy another Makita

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## Jedwards

Why is that ringtail? Is it due to the manufacturing as mentioned previously? Bare in mind that it's only going to be for personal use, unless I have a drastic career change.

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## ringtail

> Why is that ringtail? Is it due to the manufacturing as mentioned previously? Bare in mind that it's only going to be for personal use, unless I have a drastic career change.

  
Basically, yes. They are very ordinary in build quality IMO. Spend $ 800 - $ 1200 on a saw and I expect it to be perfectly accurate and have some degree of decent engineering. But it does depend on what you want to do with it and how you treat it. Most makita saws get thrown in the back of the ute and heavily abused and still work. The bosch wouldn't last if treated like that, its too refined.

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## seriph1

Everything I am referring to relates to 12 inch saws  -  12 inch blade's speed at the teeth is higher therefore better cuts, plus 'everything' seems a bit beefier. 
I have had or used 7 or 8 compound mitre saws in my time  -  the best was a Festool - worst: GMC.  
When I researched the saws, the two which seemed to trump all others were the DeWalt and Bosch.  
I went to TOTAL TOOLS in Cooper St. Epping and looked very closely at the build quality of each and decided on the Bosch, but truthfully there wasn't much in it. I went back home to Kilmore to give the local Mitre 10 the chance to price match and they couldn't even buy the thing for what TT had offered the Bosch to me for. 
From memory it was on some kind of killer special at the time  -  think I paid around $800. It has been used almost daily for nearly two years and hasn't missed a beat   -   I bought a finer blade to ensure I achieved the best cuts possible but never needed to fit it as the one provided is excellent. A lot of my work is cutting fine mouldings and provided I set her up correctly, it makes brilliant cuts. 
All that said, I have no doubt that there are many saws of equal quality out there... 
BTW Total Tools sent a flyer to me yesterday  -  19-21 July 20% off most items storewide with some items 50% off. Might be worth checking it out. 
Best of luck

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## manofaus

I liked the Makita LS1216 that I owned and I am getting it replaced. I found (this is my opinion as a DIYer) that the machines that had the shortest extension when using the slide feature were more accurate. The makita has the same amount of extension at any position due to the fact the extension movement is done with two paired slides. Some saws use the one slide and at full extension you can get deflection and this causes accuracy problems. Cutting depth is also a function of motor position, so the angled drive on the Makita gave it more depth of cut compared to you saw blade mounted motor jobbies. De-tents for frequently used position and a vernier scale sold me. But that's not to say it was the best out there, I am always bias towards makita. I had a GMC and it is good at cutting studs and noggs....
I found it wasn't that hard to move around (I guess either did the new owner who 'borrowed it) but I would imagine any saw of that size would be as difficult. 
You can get them for 1000 bucks on the interweb auction site. It should last me 30 years if I bolt it down. 
Just remember to engrave and get the serial numbers of anything you own that could be borrowed for the long term by someone else.

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## Jedwards

Thanks for the help everyone. Ended up going with the Bosch, 10 inch. Think it will be more than capable of what I intend to do. Have already tested it, loving the accuracy and the laser ( or lazy) function.

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## shauck

How well do lasers work? Do they hold up over time? I've seen one on a cheapy and it was rubbish. I would hope that on the "better" branded saws, they work well.

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## ringtail

> Thanks for the help everyone. Ended up going with the Bosch, 10 inch. Think it will be more than capable of what I intend to do. Have already tested it, loving the accuracy and the laser ( or lazy) function.

  
Excellent choice IMO

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## barney118

I wouldn't trust laser " gimmicks" and you can't see them when it's daylight !  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## Jedwards

I have noticed that the laser is hard to see under some lights, however when cutting in the shade it is perfect, just put the laser on your line and the blade will cut right next to it. I have noticed that the housing around the laser can get blocked by sawdust if the wood has any moisture in it, apart from that I find it to be very handy. Then If I can't see it, I just resort to the old way of doing things. The laser is even accurate when doing 45 degree bevel cuts. Overall very happy with the saw so far.

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## mugatu

I've been looking around in the last week, comparing specs on line and in stores. I was looking at the Makita for $399 which I think is a certain retailer only model (they had no specs on it and I had to track them down myself), was just about to buy it and settle that it doesn't do 45 degree bevels left and right, plus only 91mm. Went back in to the shop and they have a new Ryobi for sale which they were just booking in. I don't think I own any Ryobi except for the whipper snipper but bang for buck and what I'll use the saw for I think this should be a good all-rounder for my home use. 
It's the new light green branded Ryobi EMS305RG. $399 Inc 
305mm 2200W Slide Saw
50/50 degree left right bevel. 45/45 70mm D x 210mm W
0/90 110mm D x 300mm W
45/90 70mm D x 300W
Laser, 5000 min, adjustable depth stop for trenching
20.7kg

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## mugatu

Well so far so good with the 305mm Ryobi, the laser actually quite good also. It doesn't try and project a 20cm laser, just about a 2 inch laser so when you slide the saw in it gives you a guide to line up with your mark. I line up with the laser, slightly move the timber then cut. The clamps and timber guides have been helpful also. 
Does seem to be easy when carrying to knock the bevel adjustment so have to keep checking when I move the saw. I'll be cutting some bigger hardwood today so I'll see how it goes.

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## binda

I bought the Makita LS1216 about 18 months ago and it's been magnificent. I don't get an deflection in the slide rails even at full extension (I have it bolted down) and the laser works very well but it does need to have the sawdust blown out of it every now and again.
My only criticism is the laser needs to be manually moved either left or right of the blade, depending on your needs. Recently when using my old mans Festool slide compound its laser is on both sides of the blade at all times.
I think that would be a very nice feature to have.

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## shauck

I wonder how much the festool cost in comparison.

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## METRIX

> I wonder how much the festool cost in comparison.

  Way too much, and they use a special arbor which only accepts Festool Blades, which are around 4 -8 times the price of other standards blades, but you don't get 4-8 times the life from them. 
Other than that they are a nice tool.

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## barney118

Surprising my old GMC is still going strong and cant seem to kill it, its not making furniture but it sure does the job for deck and cutting big pieces. The olny thing I dont like about it is the motor is low on the right side. I use the dewalt at TAFE and I cant find the extra dollars to buy something else until this dies. Of course they are not around anymore.

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## justonething

Aldi is advertising again their compound mitre saw for $149 same as what they have been selling in Dec last year. I wonder if there is anybody who has bought it last year if they have any feedback on the product. ALDI - special buys from wed 14 dec - hurry, limited stocks in store*

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## Ozcar

> Aldi is advertising again their compound mitre saw for $149 same as what they have been selling in Dec last year. . . .

  I was at the local Aldi at opening time yesterday. They sold five or six of these saws within a few minutes. 
So, who got one of them? What do you think about it now that you have had a chance to try it?  
And, did anybody else get one of the Ryobi EMS305RGs mentioned by Mugatu a while ago?

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## m6sports

The one I would buy would be the Bosch GCM12GDL they are so smooth  GCM 12 GDL Professional - Double Bevel Sliding Mitre Saw - Bosch Power Tools for Professionals

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## Pitto

a bit heavy for site work at 32kg's though, however, it does slide exceptionally smooth.

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## justonething

> And, did anybody else get one of the Ryobi EMS305RGs mentioned by Mugatu a while ago?

  I ended up getting one on Saturday morning. I haven't used it yet, so I can't comment much other than to say that at 14Kg it light enough to move around. It's also a 10in, so cutting depth will be a little limited.

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## mugatu

> I was at the local Aldi at opening time yesterday. They sold five or six of these saws within a few minutes. 
> So, who got one of them? What do you think about it now that you have had a chance to try it?  
> And, did anybody else get one of the Ryobi EMS305RGs mentioned by Mugatu a while ago?

  Well for me it's been great, the larger blade and adjustments have been good. Previously on a drop saw I borrowed some of the larger stuff I couldn't cut. Couldn't tell you a pro vs this one but for DYI it's been solid.   RYOBI Tools for the full specs for those who know more about power tools

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## raul07

> Well for me it's been great, the larger blade and adjustments have been good. Previously on a drop saw I borrowed some of the larger stuff I couldn't cut. Couldn't tell you a pro vs this one but for DYI it's been solid.   RYOBI Tools for the full specs for those who know more about power tools

  What stuff have you been cutting Mugatu?  
I am looking for something to build my pergola.. Mainly interested in using it for notching out the posts for the beam.

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## mugatu

> What stuff have you been cutting Mugatu?  
> I am looking for something to build my pergola.. Mainly interested in using it for notching out the posts for the beam.

  Mostly treated pine, then the 90 x 90 merbau posts and merbau boards. Need to find the next project now. Would have save me a stack of time and energy when I built they deck if I had this vs the drop saw.

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## Bloss

> What stuff have you been cutting Mugatu?  
> I am looking for something to build my pergola.. Mainly interested in using it for notching out the posts for the beam.

  For DIY work such as a pergola that's an OK saw. At that price . . .

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## Bloss

> RYOBI Tools for the full specs for those who know more about power tools

  Might be Ryobi knockoff but it has different specs to that Ryobi link - which is to the 305mm (12") saw not the 250mm (10") which is what the Aldi saw is. Main difference is that the larger blade will cut posts up to 110mm) - 250mm will cut (just!) 90mm  x90mm. The correct Ryobi equivalent is here RYOBI Tools. Aldi gives three blades, but better to get a better quality 60 or 80 tooth TCT blade. If plan on ripping (cutting along the grain not across) then get a General Purpose blade.

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## raul07

> Mostly treated pine, then the 90 x 90 merbau posts and merbau boards. Need to find the next project now. Would have save me a stack of time and energy when I built they deck if I had this vs the drop saw.

  Cheers Mugatu   

> For DIY work such as a pergola that's an OK saw. At that price . . .

  Cheers Bloss.  Is it normal practice to do a series of cross cuts then chisel out the remaining timber to get my notch/L?

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## Bloss

> Cheers Mugatu 
>  Cheers Bloss.  Is it normal practice to do a series of cross cuts then chisel out the remaining timber to get my notch/L?

  Yep - or run them through fully using the saw - depends on your patience and your chisel skills (and sharpening skills). Often useful to have an extra pair of hands when checking out a large post too - you control the timber, but they assist and steady. Can be done by one though. Another way is to cut the two straight cuts at the edge of the check-out then using a smaller hand held circular saw (185mm or 150mm) set at the same depth run through a few times in the area to be removed - as those cuts do not have to be straight. Then knock out with a chisel - tap from both sides so you not break away below the depth line on the opposite side of where you are chiselling. With practice you can just use a small saw, but for a novice DIY better to use a saw which is fixed to give a straight cut.

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## raul07

> Yep - or run them through fully using the saw - depends on your patience and your chisel skills (and sharpening skills). Often useful to have an extra pair of hands when checking out a large post too - you control the timber, but they assist and steady. Can be done by one though. Another way is to cut the two straight cuts at the edge of the check-out then using a smaller hand held circular saw (185mm or 150mm) set at the same depth run through a few times in the area to be removed - as those cuts do not have to be straight. Then knock out with a chisel - tap from both sides so you not break away below the depth line on the opposite side of where you are chiselling. With practice you can just use a small saw, but for a novice DIY better to use a saw which is fixed to give a straight cut.

  Thanks Bloss!

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