# Forum Home Renovation Doors, Windows, Architraves & Skirts  Customising an internal door for an undersized frame

## Overkill

I am replacing the doors in my house and discovered that two of the frames are seriously undersized - after I bought the doors  :Doh: . Before I order a pair of custom doors for around $200 extra, I am thinking about customising the doors I already have. They are plain hollow core with masonite faces; cutting down the hinge side would leave 5 to 10mm of wood which I could rip out and replace with a new rail. 
Does anyone have an idea on taking out the original rail without damaging the faces? My best idea so far is to make a custom fence for a small circular saw...

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## China

I would spend the extra $200 and save yourself a migraine

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## phild01

I think what you want to do is remove the edge timber and re-insert.  Rip from the hinge side of the door.  You may find what you are left with has little glue holding the  door face sheets.  Sounds like it may only be 5 or 10mm piece to be removed!  Try prying apart the remainder with a knife and paint scraper.  Drive a screw into the piece to be removed so you can grip at it.  It may come off quite easily or it may not.  I have done this myself with success but there may be a staple that holds it to top and bottom rails.  After it is removed you need to clear the honeycomb cardboard to a depth that will accommodate re-insertion of the piece removed or another suitable dressed timber that is rebated for top and bottom rails.  Just glue back in and clamp generously.  Make sure you are not cutting the side with the door handle.  If this gets too hard then the option of custom made is still available.  Can you return the doors for exchange!

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## Boolligan

> I am replacing the doors in my house and discovered that two of the frames are seriously undersized - after I bought the doors . Before I order a pair of custom doors for around $200 extra, I am thinking about customising the doors I already have. They are plain hollow core with masonite faces; cutting down the hinge side would leave 5 to 10mm of wood which I could rip out and replace with a new rail. 
> Does anyone have an idea on taking out the original rail without damaging the faces? My best idea so far is to make a custom fence for a small circular saw...

  I think i would save myself the headache as already stated.  Take the doors back for a credit and purchase a couple of solid core paint grade doors for about $140-150 each.  Trim to size, hang.... go have a beers. :Biggrin:  
Cheers
Steve

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## David.Elliott

> I think what you want to do is remove the edge timber and re-insert.  Rip from the hinge side of the door.  You may find what you are left with has little glue holding the  door face sheets.  Sounds like it may only be 5 or 10mm piece to be removed!  Try prying apart the remainder with a knife and paint scraper.  Drive a screw into the piece to be removed so you can grip at it.  It may come off quite easily or it may not.  I have done this myself with success but there may be a staple that holds it to top and bottom rails.  After it is removed you need to clear the honeycomb cardboard to a depth that will accommodate re-insertion of the piece removed or another suitable dressed timber that is rebated for top and bottom rails.  Just glue back in and clamp generously.  Make sure you are not cutting the side with the door handle.  If this gets too hard then the option of custom made is still available.  Can you return the doors for exchange!

  Buying customs was not an option, I had 13 to change! to go from $39 to $200 did not appeal...my challenge was a bit different insofar as it was the height that was out. I could not trim 40mm off as the timber stile was not that deep. I guess that's what you get for $39.00. I did not trim the honeycomb, just pushed it in...Watch out for the staple, it nicks thicknessers..
I would start by removing all of the timber that's there with the scraper etc, then reinsert with glue etc, allowing for a 3-5mm trim with a saw/planer.. 
FMI what widths are you chasing? I remember(?) from 620 up to 820mm being available...

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## Overkill

I need to get the door down to 805mm, which will leave 5mm or less in the rail if I just take it off the hinge side. I don't see any staples in these doors, not even a filler mark.

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## phild01

> I need to get the door down to 805mm, which will leave 5mm or less in the rail if I just take it off the hinge side. I don't see any staples in these doors, not even a filler mark.

  When you rip it down the saw will probably give off a few sparks where the staples are, not easy to see and nothing to worry about too much.  If you are resigned to doing this then pulling the last 5mm out should be easy.  A local timber yard should be able to size you up with a piece of finger jointed pine to go back in as the piece you are left with may be too thin for hinges.  Would be easier if you were taking more off.

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## Overkill

I'm a long time wood worker, so planing & thicknessing the replacement rail isn't a problem - just getting the remains of the original rail out without damaging the faces. I have a cunning plan...

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## phild01

> I'm a long time wood worker, so planing & thicknessing the replacement rail isn't a problem - just getting the remains of the original rail out without damaging the faces. I have a cunning plan...

  Generally I find the glues will let go,  and you will likely remove most of the glued section anyway.  Interested in your cunning plan though.

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## woodchip

I'd probably take 7.5mm off each stile....cheers

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## phild01

> I'd probably take 7.5mm off each stile....cheers

  I'm sure that will work out fine, should have been our first thought for 15mm. :Blush7:

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## Overkill

That was my first thought too, but the rails are about 20mm thick and the manufacturer warns not to take more than 3mm off either side. That seems very stingy to me; its what you get when everyone buys on price alone I guess.

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## phild01

> That was my first thought too, but the rails are about 20mm thick and the manufacturer warns not to take more than 3mm off either side. That seems very stingy to me; its what you get when everyone buys on price alone I guess.

  They do skimp but being left with 12.5mm is cutting it fine especially if rebating the hinges.  Maybe use the other type of hinge for no rebate and add a middle hinge as well.

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## Handyjack

> I need to get the door down to 805mm, which will leave 5mm or less in the rail if I just take it off the hinge side. I don't see any staples in these doors, not even a filler mark.

   

> I'd probably take 7.5mm off each stile....cheers

   

> I'm sure that will work out fine, should have been our first thought for 15mm.

  I would also take 7.5mm off both sides. Yes it does leave the stiles thinner but you can get away with it. Do Not over tighten the hinge screws.

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## phild01

Just on the same thought, maybe bias the cutting to favour the hinge side with more. The handle side doesn't need as much as it has a block for the handle.

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## boyracer

I have had to do this a bit lately.... cheap doors and spare time V's quick and expensive custom doors. As  above once you start working the door comes apart quite easily.
I start the split with a sharp chisel into the rebated join at top/bottom. then cut it down on the triton and reinsert a sized timber , glue it up.
Only takes  20 mins or so.

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## Overkill

Like!  :Smilie:

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