# Forum Home Renovation Structural Renovation  Replacing Weatherboards

## roba

We have mainly a double-brick house, except for the very back (which obviously was an extension) which is weatherboards.  The weatherboards down one side are due for replacement: the top ones are cracked and are letting in the weather, and possums have decided to finish a few off with their teeth and make our roof space their home. 
The area in question is about 2.8m wide, and about 8 metres high (we have high ceilings inside).  There are 36 weatherboards in total.  Strictly speaking, only the top 10 or so weatherboards need replacing now, but I figure that they all might as well be done as several of the others are showing their age. 
I got our regular carpenter in to give us a quote.  Since it is high, scaffolding is required.  He quoted $1300 for the scaffolding (installed) for a few days (which seems about right), and $4000 for himself for the job (including materials). 
$4000 for the job, to me, sounds ridiculously high for a job which seems to be easy (since the scaffolding will already be in place).  I phoned around, and found that hardwood weatherboards can be bought for $17 each, so under $800 for materials (including delivery).  That leaves $3200 for labour. 
It appears that each board gets nailed on at the bottom, through the top of the board behind it, to the joists behind.  There are 5 joists.  So about 200 nails. 
I'm now considering doing the job myself.  It seems all pretty easy to me.  I've replaced two or three weatherboards before and it hasn't been hard.  I think I could rip of the existing boards in a couple of hours, then spend the rest of the day nailing new ones on. 
Admittedly, there is a bit of work at the top (a couple of extra pieces of wood).  But where does $3200 labour come from (about $16 per nail)?  Am I missing something? 
Attached is a pic of the wall in question.

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## dazzler

I have replaced weatherboards on our place.  If I can do it, then I reckon anyone could do it!   
Why not have a go yourself!  It certainly would be cheaper.  :2thumbsup:

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## barney118

yep not much to it, need to get up there somehow, done the last lot on a ladder, a bit tricky but have obtain my own scaffold so its much better. I have used selly's external putty, great and sands easy. and weatherboard (white in a tube) pretty much silicon with a different name. Painted mine but if you have the scaffold stain/cover when you put em up just as easy to on the ground. you have to cover up the nail holes anyway.

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## tobymcclure

> We have mainly a double-brick house, except for the very back (which obviously was an extension) which is weatherboards. The weatherboards down one side are due for replacement: the top ones are cracked and are letting in the weather, and possums have decided to finish a few off with their teeth and make our roof space their home. 
> The area in question is about 2.8m wide, and about 8 metres high (we have high ceilings inside). There are 36 weatherboards in total. Strictly speaking, only the top 10 or so weatherboards need replacing now, but I figure that they all might as well be done as several of the others are showing their age. 
> I got our regular carpenter in to give us a quote. Since it is high, scaffolding is required. He quoted $1300 for the scaffolding (installed) for a few days (which seems about right), and $4000 for himself for the job (including materials). 
> $4000 for the job, to me, sounds ridiculously high for a job which seems to be easy (since the scaffolding will already be in place). I phoned around, and found that hardwood weatherboards can be bought for $17 each, so under $800 for materials (including delivery). That leaves $3200 for labour. 
> It appears that each board gets nailed on at the bottom, through the top of the board behind it, to the joists behind. There are 5 joists. So about 200 nails. 
> I'm now considering doing the job myself. It seems all pretty easy to me. I've replaced two or three weatherboards before and it hasn't been hard. I think I could rip of the existing boards in a couple of hours, then spend the rest of the day nailing new ones on. 
> Admittedly, there is a bit of work at the top (a couple of extra pieces of wood). But where does $3200 labour come from (about $16 per nail)? Am I missing something? 
> Attached is a pic of the wall in question.

  
I think you will find that you could easily do this small job , i did some weeartherboarding at my place and it turned out just fine, have a go your self. There is an art to it some will say. I found it to be alot easier than i expected. take your time measure, then remeasure, dont hammer the nails home too hard or you run the risk of cracking the board. attached is a file EAST WING on the forums sent me. Will explain everyting if you have queries...  http://http://www.timber.org.au/reso...%2072dpi_0.pdf

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## roba

Thanks very much to all.  I'll be giving it a go when I get some time in a few weeks.  The scaffolding can be hired for 3 days, which is how long I'll give myself to complete the job, including painting.  I'm hoping that it will actually take me under 2 days. 
Just one question: does anybody know what's better: treated pine weatherboards, or hardwood?  The hardwood is cheaper, and actually suits our needs much better (sold in right length, and is 200mm while the pine is only 185mm).  So will probably just go with that unless there is a good reason not to.

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## ndaki

Hardwood is chearper?  Are you sure?  I don't know for sure, but that doesn't sound right?

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## roba

> Hardwood is chearper?  Are you sure?  I don't know for sure, but that doesn't sound right?

  I agree, it doesn't sound right.  But I was quoted around $8 per linear metre for treated pine.  The planks come in 5.4m lengths, which is hardly ideal for me as the area is 2.9m, so I either would have to have joins, or throw away 2.5m for each board.  Also, they are only 185mm wide, rather than 200mm which is my existing size. 
The hardwood was quoted as being $17 per plank, with each plank being 3.66m, which works out at about $4.70 per lm.  And being 3.66m, I can quite easily cut them down to 2.9m and only throw away 800mm of each plank.  They are also 200mm wide, so they'll match up perfectly with the other side. 
This is over the phone, so prices could be wrong.

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## TermiMonster

Treated pine can be quite expensive.
In Melbourne, a lot of baltic pine is used for weatherboards, pre primed it goes for about $3 to 3.50 per metre.
Rots pretty quick if it gets wet though (prime the cuts).
Sounds like a reasonable job to do yourself.
cheers
TM

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## Rippy

I'll jump on the bandwagon, do it yourself. I just finished one side of my house 12m x 2.5 m high using 14mm thick fibre cement weatherboards ($24.95 per 4.2m length) took a couple of days due to sweltering Perth heat though. Easy enough after the first board but do yourself a favour and make a jig to check the board is in the correct height rather than measuring every board and check level every few boards high. Save your dough $4000 sounds awefully expensive. Might want to think about hiring a nailgun if you haven't got one, saves heaps of time.

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## Terrian

I will also jump on the bandwagon  :Smilie:  
Do it yourself, hire the scaffolding if you feel safer that way 
Day 1  - Pull all the boards off - lever boards out and cut nails for hacksaw, careful not to split the boards 
Day 2 - Replace the boards that need replacing
          - Strip back and then 2 coats of paint for all the boards that are going back up 
Day 3 -Put boards back up, fill and final coat of paint (assuming you are going to paint        
Here is one I did earlier, we already had enough boards to cover the job, so we were able to do Day 1 & Day 3 in the one day  :Smilie:  Picasa Web Albums - TerrianC - Dans Room

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## Metung

I hired 1.8mx1.8mx5.4m scaffold from Coates Hire to do my place and it cost $270 for 5 days - that's it on the right of the picture. That was about 4 years ago but I can't imagine prices have gone up too much since then. I used Weathertex boards and have been very happy with them. There are still offcuts lying in the scrap heap and they are still as good as new. I gave the boards 2 coats before I put them up and one coat once installed. I agree with the previous comments about doing it yourself.

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## phillta

> Day 2 - Replace the boards that need replacing
> - Strip back and then 2 coats of paint for all the boards that are going back up

  Terrian - what method do you use for stripping back the boards? I recall someone on these forums getting someone in with a sandblaster while they were still up?

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## Terrian

> Terrian - what method do you use for stripping back the boards? I recall someone on these forums getting someone in with a sandblaster while they were still up?

  took the boards down, used an electric planner set at .5mm, finished off with a belt sander.
there was at least 5 different colours of paint, say at least 10 coats of paint.

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## amata

How did you go with your wall.
I am just about to attach recycled hard wood weather boards to a verandah I am enclosing, the framings done, the windows are in. I have a paslode framing gun and a finishing gun,( both, worth there weight in goldI I have found". What I am unsure of is which nail gun do I use,   :Confused:  and is there a particular easy way to putting the boards on. Is there anything in particular I need to be aware of before I start. One wall spans 8 mtrs and the other 5 mtrs. One wall meets with a brick wall, the other ends at a door I have yet to do. The boards are frightfully heavy, so I will have to get the hubby to lend a hand. As you can guess I really am an amature at this. The Allan Staines books are excellent. Is there more I shoud know. Your suggestions will be very much appreciated. cheers m

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## Terrian

*amata*, I would be wary of using a nailgun on weatherboards, a 1/2 decent hammer, gal nails is what we used (mind you, I am no expert on nailguns!)

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## amata

I have used the finishing gun with 63mm gal nails, to fix 5 layers of boards in place, seems to be working well so far, no splits. I find the most difficult thing is holding them steady, they are very heavy. Im finding the nail gun quick, and it secures the boards in place, also they are easy to remove if one end slips and I have to redo that end. I'll redo a few with the framing gun and see how it goes. Im not real good with a hammer, especially at heights. Im sure I would miss and split more than a few boards. Well, back to work. cheers m

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## ibuildbenches

Im not to sure about the framer on weatherboards :S 
Also you mention that with using the fixer "they are easy to remove". This would be one reason not to use one IMHO. A few months of weather and those boards are going to move, maybe enough to pop those little fixing nails right out. 
I use a fixer like you said, to hold the boards in place, but always use Gal nails. Also don't nail through the top of the board underneath (where they overlap) as this wont allow the boards to move/shink etc causing cracking.

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## amata

I am assuming, I hope, the recycled, very old weather boards I am using will not shrink or move, I do intend using galvanised nails with the nail gun, I guess the worst that can happen is they all fall down, and I have to do it again. Any suggestions of how to do this jon on your own, am not asking for help here to actually do the job, but genuine ways others have done this without the use of another pair of hands. 
cheers m

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