# Forum Home Renovation Fences & Screens  Horizontal slat screen

## ChrisJC

Hey guys, I'm building a horizontal slat screen and have already set the posts which are 50 x 50 x1.6mm gal steel. has anyone experienced problems with directly attaching slats to the steel posts using gal wingteks? I know it's generally considered a no no to attach decking directly to steel joists but does the same apply to steel posts in a vertical situation? I would rather not attach a batten to the posts if it isn't necessary. 
Cheers
C

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## pharmaboy2

It will be heaps easier with a batten - 35mm thick to the side of the batten and flush with the front so no added depth is what I would do.  I've done it the way you are, and ended up pre drilling ( the one in a hundred broken Tek was an absolute pita to fix otherwise ) 
(owner build advice, not trade)

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## cyclic

> Hey guys, I'm building a horizontal slat screen and have already set the posts which are 50 x 50 x1.6mm gal steel. has anyone experienced problems with directly attaching slats to the steel posts using gal wingteks? I know it's generally considered a no no to attach decking directly to steel joists but does the same apply to steel posts in a vertical situation? I would rather not attach a batten to the posts if it isn't necessary. 
> Cheers
> C

  Considering you will be fixing to the very end of the batten, simply predrill the batten.
You should have no trouble with the tecs unless you over screw them.
Use a reasonably weak electric drill and remember to lift your finger off the trigger half way in, unless of course you have a tec drill or a drill with clutch

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## ChrisJC

Thanks for your replies. I messed around with some offcuts and square tube to try and work out the best way to do it. Set predrill/countersink so the predrill just touches the metal post, then screw the wingtek in. Sometimes the wings on the wingteks can break off prematurely wihich makes the drill wobble about so I may need to predrill the post also. As the drill bits supplied with smartbits etc break as soon as they encounter any resistance, I'll buy a few 3.5mm cobalt drill bits for the predrilling. Luckily I've got 2 cordless drills and an impact driver suitable for teks so it shouldn't be too bad. Takes a bit of stuffing around but I only want to do the job once.

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## METRIX

I put a piece of timber inside the steel post, cap the steel, predrill through the steel then you can use the same SS decking screws, takes a little longer as you need to put a bigger clearance hole through the steel or it will snap the SS screw.

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## ChrisJC

> I put a piece of timber inside the steel post, cap the steel, predrill through the steel then you can use the same SS decking screws, takes a little longer as you need to put a bigger clearance hole through the steel or it will snap the SS screw.

  hadn't thought of doing it that way but it would be no more hassle than doing what I was suggesting.

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## METRIX

> hadn't thought of doing it that way but it would be no more hassle than doing what I was suggesting.

  Good thing about doing this, is the timber is protected inside the post, and you only see the 50mm post nothing else, don;t make the timber too tight or it will get jammed half way through, give it 5mm on both sides 
Oh and paint the post before you attach any timber, if its gal glean with turps then, spray with etch primer first or the solarguard type paints won't stick. 
When putting the timbers on, put your spacer in, clamp it to the post, pre drill the timber and all the posts, take slat off, pre drill clearance hole in the post, put timber back up, use smartbit to countersink the timber, then screw in, as I said it take s little longer but you have the same screw through the entire job. 
Don't try to use smartbit to predrill the steel it will destroy in seconds.

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## phild01

> Oh and paint the post before you attach any timber, if its gal glean with turps then, spray with etch primer first or the solarguard type paints won't stick.

  Found that out, though old oxidised gal provides a good key.

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