# Forum Home Renovation Decking  Intergrain DWD on Merbau Deck

## biffo

Hi all 
We are in the process of building a deck with Merbau floorboards (and an insulated roof). 
Regarding coating the Merbau, the builder has suggested we put DWD onto it straight away, and not to worry about the Intergrain Dimension 4 pretreatment. However after reading all the comments here, and how it is recommended to let the Merbau weather,  I am not too sure about what the builder is saying now .. 
Should I be following the builders recommendations ? I would have thought they wouldnt suggest something that could be detrimental to the finish of the deck, and they have done nothing for me not to trust what they are saying - just this is getting to me a little  :Smilie:  I wouldnt expect there could be much weathering to be done with a roof over the top.

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## jimj

Dear Biffo, 
  Welcome to the forum and I am certain you will find it a wealth of information to sift through most of it based on other peoples experience. With regards to deck coatings there are quite a large number of products out there all offering a good initial finish at the begining. From what it sounds like your deck has good coverage from the elements. In saying that there are very few decks that I see that are different from this. The timber up close to the house looks great several years after it was laid but all along the outer edges is starting to fail. It is either grey-black or peeling or just stuffed. The greatest destroyer of all external timber is sun(uv) and moisture. What generally happens on decks like the one you are having built is the edges go off quickly and before you know what is happening the zone between the good and the bad gets past where you can recoat and have it look the same. Intergrain DWD is probably one of the coatings that I come across more often than most and it generally breaks up and looks like #^&$@. I have a attempted to remove it by using a chemical stripper and high pressure water blaster which generates a huge mess of old coating going everywhere and by sanding. Then sanding can be a hassle if your deck builder uses dome headed nails. That is another story that has been discussed on this forum many times. The other issue is merbau is a very oily-tannin filled timber. Most manufacturers of deck coatings recommend waiting 3-4 months minimum before coating as the timber MAY bleed some of the oil-tannin to the surface and ruin the coating. Now one of the best weathering methods is to have it rain on the deck weekly over that time or hose it weekly to draw up the oil-tannin, however, with level 5 water restrictions that is completely out of the question. If you just left the deck for say 4 months to maybe bleed some of the oils that might be a happy compromise. Most people once they have the deck built want it to look its bestASAP. In this entire story-debate-fingers crossed discussion of decking you will find enormous differences of opinion,ideas and suggestions. I have found it two steps forward and one step back. I am sure that many others on the forum will add to your question and then it is a matter of sifting through the information and going forward  armed with as much knowledge as you can gain. Don't be afraid of letting it sit for 4 months or so. It is very easy to clean and bring it back to beautiful wood before coating. Please do not sit any pot plants directly without the 4 little feet, BBQ cylinders or any metal steel objects on the deck or you will wind up with nearly impossible black marks to get out. I have been using Flood Spa&Deck which is a water baed acyrilic on the decks that I restore. I hope I have given you some food for thought. 
   Good luck, 
    Jim J    www.restore-a-deck.com.au

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## dazzler

Just coat it in tongue oil, crack open a beer and enjoy.   :Biggrin:

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## Larry McCully

If you want to maintain the features of the timber , then a deck oil is the go or their is soon to be on the market a water based polyurathane that is able to be put on decks and is uv resistent . But if you want the effect that dwd will give you then it is most impeerative that you coat it with demision 4 first. Do not use a roller but use a lambs wool applicator . I am doing a series of decks (7) at 400 m2 each, We have tested intergrain and have rejected it and have gone in favour for the water based product. The difference is outstanding.

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## BrissyBrew

Such an array of deck coating methods. 
I have been thinking about Merbau decking, I am happy to leave an oiled finished (maybe speaking from ignorance on this point), can these be applied straight way (I was actually thinking of giving the first cost on both sides of the boards before laying them)

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## strangerep

> [...] is soon to be on the market a water based
> polyurathane that is able to be put on decks and is uv resistent . [...]

  What's the product's name and manufacturer?
Is it single-pack or 2-pack?

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## strangerep

> I have been thinking about Merbau decking, I am
> happy to leave an oiled finished (maybe speaking from ignorance on this point),
> can these be applied straight way (I was actually thinking of giving the first coat
> on both sides of the boards before laying them)

  I've written up my experiences previously in this forum - search for a thread
entitled "sanding before oiling", (if I recall correctly). 
For a tannin-rich timber like Merbau, if you coat it straight away the tannins
will rise up over time under the combined action of UV and water (hence more
so on areas which are more exposed). Surprisingly quickly, it will look like
crap. Better to let it weather (for an amount of time determined by how much
rain it's getting), then clean with Napisan, then apply oil. 
Regarding coating of undersides, if you'll never see them, you might as well
use a more substantial preservative, like stop-rot (the green stuff). Maybe
also an oil-based paint primer as well.

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## TommyC

I finished a 20m2 merbau deck recently, and coated it with Spa-n-Deck (as rec'd by some posts on this forum). I left the deck weather for a month, then washed it down with the companion pre-treatment solution, and finished off with 2 coats of Spa-n-deck (ceder). I am very pleased with the way it turned out, and it was really easy to apply.

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## mic-d

if you must use an Intergrain product then use ultradeck, not DWD.  But I would use Spa-n-Deck. 
CHeers 
Michael

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## jimj

Dear Tommy C 
Great to hear that you are happy with your deck and coating. I have been using Spa&Deck now in my decking restoration business now for the past 18 months and have not had any call backs from customers with complaints of peeling, cracking ,going black or disappearing. What is nice is that Flood is now backing this up with a 2 year guarantee for horizontal and 4 year for vertical surfaces. I do have a problem with Flood's instructions saying that if you have a nice sheen after 2 coats that it is enough. From a personal point of view I don't feel that 2 coats is at all adequate as it really is more like one and a half coats as the first coat is put down on wet timber. I always quote to lay down 3 coats on my customers decks. I do know that when the third coat goes down it really brings it to life and that several other full time restores have found the same. If the deck is in total sun most of the day I recommend 4 coats. I have experimented with 5 but feel it is too much. I do think that 4 gives you three great layers of protection and still lets you see the grain and patterns in the timber. The easy part of this is the coating with the miserable part being the preparation. The two most common questions that I get asked is "how long will it last" and "what is required to redo do . I am absolutely confident that if applied correctly and if the preperation brings the wood back to clean and bare timber you will easily reach the 2 years that Flood is guaranteeing. All it will do over this time is slowly dull with the satin sheen fading but the both the colour and the covering will remain. With your 2 coats at the moment if you feel like adding another coat or two just hose off any dirt, let the deck dry and coat. 
If you look at my portfolio in my website all after photos have been completed with spa&deck mainly cedar with several sedona and redwood.   
all the best , 
jimj       www.restore-a-deck.com.au

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## biffo

Thank you all for the responses! I'm glad I took the time to research because I would have been pretty annoyed to have blown $250 on a tin of DWD to have it look like crap really quickly! 
The floor went down yesterday, and overnight we got a spot of rain. I can see now what you all say about the Tannins coming out of the wood! I expected to see something, but not as much as there was! 
Can I just clarify - once it gets wet and the tannins show up on the boards, should you clean it off before it dries ?

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## jimj

Dear Biffo, 
   No please don't worry about the tanin spots. It will not be difficult to clean if you leave it for 3-4 months. The issue is if the wood feels smooth when you rub your finger ACROSS the grain . As long as that feels smooth it will clean easily with either Flood Powerlift which is basically an alkaline wood detergent with  the active ingredient being sodium percarbonate or by using a Napisan detergent which is also based on the active ingredient of sodium percarbonate. From my experience all hardwood timbers even in full daily sun can stand up to the elements and still feel smooth after 3-4 months. It will be an easy deck to clean and coat with your choice of product. If you elect to go the napisan way you can buy the no-name napisan. Same active ingredient different perfumes usually half to one third the cost. Mix 50 grams/one litre of WARM water. Spread a liberal amount over wet timber and let stand for 15-20 minutes on COOL timber . You will be amazed at the amount of oil-tanin - dirt  sitting on the surface. Scrub and rinse off well. I would then apply a mix of 10% oxalic acid and water for 10-20 minutes scrub and rinse well. You are now ready to coat. If you are using an oil based product you will need to make sure it is dry usually 2-3 days. if using Flood spa&deck you can begin the coating straight away as the first coat goes down on wet wood. 
I hope All this makes some sense! 
Jim J     www.restore-a-deck.com.au

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## biffo

Thanks Jim - it makes plenty of sense!  
What do you use to scrub it with ? Do you go for a scrubbing brush ?

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## jimj

Dear Biffo, 
  Glad the steps make sense. It will work a treat for you. I forgot to add to do the cleaning when the deck surface is cool. It can be a hassle if the wood surface is hot because it will want to dry out on you while you are letting the cleaner sit on the wood surface. As for scrubbing. I am working on decks nearly 6 days a week . I invested in a Rotowash scrubbing machine as it can scrub a lot better than we can by hand and the machine also picks up and gathers the dirt, oil and detergent from the surface. In your case I would just use a fairly stiff scrubbing brush on a pole.  Because it is new timber it will scrub easily when you clean the deck. The oxalic acid mixture which is predominantly what most of the deck cleaners on the hardware store shelves will do several things in the process. It will help neutralise the timber surface closer back to a PH7, It will help open the pores of the wood a little which will allow for your coating product to be absorbed a little better. It will also tend to brighten the wood a little more when the timber dries. You won't notice the vast difference with your eyes when using the oxalic acid as you will with the sodium percarbonate. It is more subtle but an important part of the preperation. If using Flood it is labeled as Flood spa&deck prep. Just mix it with warm water and stir it well. I apply both the detergent and the prep with and old pad applicator. I find it spreads both well , gives good uniform coating and is reasonably quick to do. When doing both steps cover an area that you know you can work. You may have to do your deck in several parts. 
   Good luck 
    jimj     www.restore-a-deck.com.au

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## biffo

Jim 
Thank you for your sound advice and information! It definately makes me feel more comfortable about going against what the builder is suggesting.  
At the end of the day, I am responsible for the finish of the deck so I am going to make sure it is done properly. Will hopefully win some brownie points with the wife when it all comes together and looks really nice  :Smilie:  
Just another question if you don't mind - I notice the Spa-N-Deck comes in several different colours - are these just stain colours depending on what finish you prefer ? Is "Natural" a colour or is it almost clear so it brings out the natural colour of the timber ? 
Also - they advise that on smooth and new surfaces: 35 to 45 sqm per 4 litre can. Does this mean that you can do 2 coats on 35-45sqm with a 4 litre can, 3 coats will require a further 2 litres (so I will need at least 6 litres for a 36sqm deck & 9 steps). Am I reading this correctly ?

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## UteMad

[quote=biffo;512447]Jim 
Hi Biffo 
I did a hardwood deck the other day with Spa n Deck 20m2 took 8ltrs for 3 coats so you'd want 15 - 20ltrs without seeing it....  
cheers Utemad :Sneaktongue:    www.dialadeck.com.au

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## jimj

Dear Biffo, 
 Grea to hear all of this is making sense. 
I would avoid using natural as it really does not come through clear but dries way to yellow for most peoples taste. I have never had any one like it from my samples. As Kwila-merbau is a very golden orange timber when wet I would personally go with cedar. If you have a look at my website in my portfolio the 9th before -after is a merbau deck with cedar as the coating.  Personally I think sedona on merbau is a little dark. But it may be what your after. I woud contact Flood and have them send you some samples of the colour that interest you and coat some off cuts and let your eye be the judge. 
As for coating I always extrapolate from the manufacturers figures on the low side. I would work off 7m2/litre per coat. It will probably work better but that is the figure I work off. 
  Best of luck,
Jim J

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## UteMad

Hi Biffo 
A few shots of a merbau deck with Sedona Spa n Deck 
The colour merbau goes when you add the cleaner  
The faded colour once all cleaning finished  
With Sedona applied    
Available colours on Merbau  
Cheers Utemad :Doh:    www.dialadeck.com.au

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## biffo

> Available colours on Merbau  
> Cheers Utemad   www.dialadeck.com.au

  Utemad - Thankyou for those pictures. Nothing beats seeing it. Left to right - what are those colours ? Sedona is the one on the far right ? Our floors inside the house are quite dark so that one might be ok. At first glance, we like the one on the far right and the one 4th from the right. 
Jim - Will take your suggestion and contact Flood for a couple of samples once Utemad confirms those colours  :Smilie:  
Cheers
Biffo

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## UteMad

Hi Biffo  
From the right to the left 
Bare un cleaned merbau
Natural
Sedona
Redwood
cedar
white
driftwood 
The far right is darkest cause it is covered in the tanins that have risen to the surface and dried...once cleaned the actual board is lighter as shown by the sample colours....Listen to jims advice on the product he uses it daily and knows it's colours and effects  
cheers utemad  www.dialadeck.com.au   
Cheers Utemad

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## jimj

Well Done Utemad, 
  Great photos and examples. Several weeks ago I tried to post some photos on this site of merbau being cleaned and when finished but as I am a complete computer gumby I think the photo megabytes or something was bigger than what can be posted. If I can get over the hurdle ,I will try to add some photos to show people.  
The best thing is to get the samples, play with it and practice a little. Spa&deck will give you a nice,durable and attractive finish. 
jimj      www.restore-a-deck.com.au

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## biffo

Jim 
This may be my chance to assist you ! Are you using Windows XP ? 
If so, you go to this page from Microsoft : http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/d...powertoys.mspx and download the program in the right hand column called "Image Resizer". Once installed, you can right click on any image and select "Resize Images" - you select whichever size you want and hit enter. This then creates a resized copy of the original image and now should be suitable for posting on the forum! 
Hope this helps.

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## biffo

Just called Flood and they don't actually supply any samples of the Spa-N-Deck, but said that I could send some offcuts to them and they would coat them and send them back to me.

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## UteMad

> Just called Flood and they don't actually supply any samples of the Spa-N-Deck, but said that I could send some offcuts to them and they would coat them and send them back to me.

  Hi Biffo 
Ask when they are next doing a sample demo at the hardware stores ... I know they do it in sydney.You just go to which ever hardware and pick them up or have a look on the day ... If not Ask where there nearest sample board is and not a treated pine one although the colour is very similar on pine as i have both sample boards... I supplied a boot load of merbau to them for samples and hardware demo's the other month.Once again this is Sydney.. 
I know they say it takes up quite a bit of time to do samples.....Versus you being a home owner and buying one lot of product...... 
My photo sample came out very close to the actual colours and is on merbau... The darkness of all the colours is similar its just whether you want a ....brown... red ...caramel.... slant of the same colour 
Cheers Utemad  www.dialadeck.com.au

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## biffo

This is a picture of the floor inside the house - seems to have a reddish colour to it so i'm almost thinking that the Redwood may be the closest "match".    
Perhaps they do the Hardware demos in Sydney as their offices are in Sydney ? I will enquire about the sample boards tomorrow when i'm out and about.

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## UteMad

Hi Biffo  
they have reps in qld too.... 
One of the biggest things we get asked for is to match the interior flooring 
It can't be done..... 
Use blackbutt inside and outside and the 2 will never have the same colour...if they do by chance day 1 they wont on day 2...Guaranteed
The product used inside  is different to outside...
Inside is shaded outside not
inside gets cleaned and protected from the elements outside not
Outside breathes and changes moisture content especially if coating wears inside is trapped under its coating 
The two will never match... your best to pick aa toning of your floor at best as to match it will prob look worse in 6 mnths when they no longer do 
Just a thought 
cheers utemad

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## biffo

Cheers Utemad - you are correct and I know that they could never match exactly. But I had never thought about how crap it would look when they change colour. We will just pick the one we like the best and go from there. Will call Flood again also about their reps in QLD and find out. Cheers Biffo.

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## RobP

> I am a complete computer gumby.

  I think Gumby might take exception with that.

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## jimj

Dear Biffo, 
   Thank you for the computer advice . I will see if I can figure it out. I spoke with Tom Mcnight about this forum and your new deck. Tom is the Qld technical and training officer for Flood and he told me he would be more than happy to come to your house with some spa&deck samples for you to practice with free of charge. He is a great fellow and works very hard for the company. He asked me to post his mobile number on the forum and said he hopes you will give him a call and set up an appointment. He asked that you mention this forum and my name so that he can connect with your call. He is based in Brisbane and said he is happy to travel to Brighton. He travels extensively around SEqld showing and demomstrating spa&deck. I hope that you will call him. His number is 0410 585647. Tom said that if there is anyone else reading this forum in SeQld to give him a call. He is a true credit to the Flood company and is very passionate about spa&deck.  
Best of luck and I hope to be able to add to the photos soon. My apologies to gumby of this forum. I just couldn't think of any other way to describe my woeful computer knowledge or skills 
   jimj

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## UteMad

Geeees Jim thats what i call a reply to a problem..... 
You sure with that much pull you don't secretly own FLOOD LoL 
Seriously though the Flood reps truely do believe in there product my Sydney rep is equally passionate although i don't know that i could twist his arm into putting his mobile on the forum for all to call....He did come out to one of our jobs and assist (he scrubbed while i watched) in the first time i appplied there product to ensure it was done properly and sort any concerns i may have had with it versus my previous coating system... What more could you ask ...None of the other companies would do that ... 
Well done Jim 
cheers Utemad :2thumbsup:    www.dialadeck.com.au

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## Carpenter

With all this hassle over timber decking & the unavoidable ongoing maintainance, I'm starting to come around to this stuff; http://www.modwood.com.au/. Yeah, its not timber but geez its got a lot going for it; no rotting, minimal discolouration/fading, no splinters, NO maintainance, made from recycled materials.

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## UteMad

> With all this hassle over timber decking & the unavoidable ongoing maintainance, I'm starting to come around to this stuff; http://www.modwood.com.au/. Yeah, its not timber but geez its got a lot going for it; no rotting, minimal discolouration/fading, no splinters, NO maintainance, made from recycled materials.

  Hi Carpenter 
I agree ....priced down along side treated pine and i would be able to move it for the bottom of the line customers but not at the spot it currently fits into the market... I don't carry there samples anymore cause other than the coating part which a good portion of the general public ignore it doesn't translate to a cost saving and still looks plastic fantastic...
On a lighter note the nailbag is in transit should arrive wednesday  
cheers Utemad  www.dialadeck.com.au

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## Carpenter

So what your saying is it looks like s$&#37;t & is overpriced?

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## UteMad

Hi Carpenter 
In a Nut shell  
cheers Utemad

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## jimj

Dear Carpenter, 
  As we know in all the issues of construction there are many alternatives with some more pleasing than others. It truly depends on just a value judgement based on what we feel happy with, what we can afford and the effort that is required to maintain what we have worked hard to lay in the beginning. I often think that we are probably expecting too much from wood sitting out daily cooking in the sun, getting wet , with a lot of shrinking and swelling. In SE Qld like many other parts of OZ we are trying to create a seamless connection between the indoor and the outdoor of our homes. 
I can't comment about modwood as I have no experience with it at all, but I would certainly consider Utemads opinion as he is in the business of deck construction with many years of experience and is continually investigating the pros and cons of both the market and the products. If he told me to give it the flick that would be all I need to hear.  
In this game it always seems to be two steps forward and one step back. 
jimj     www.restore-a-deck.com.au

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## Carpenter

> Dear Carpenter, 
>   As we know in all the issues of construction there are many alternatives with some more pleasing than others. It truly depends on just a value judgement based on what we feel happy with, what we can afford and the effort that is required to maintain what we have worked hard to lay in the beginning. I often think that we are probably expecting too much from wood sitting out daily cooking in the sun, getting wet , with a lot of shrinking and swelling. In SE Qld like many other parts of OZ we are trying to create a seamless connection between the indoor and the outdoor of our homes. 
> I can't comment about modwood as I have no experience with it at all, but I would certainly consider Utemads opinion as he is in the business of deck construction with many years of experience and is continually investigating the pros and cons of both the market and the products. If he told me to give it the flick that would be all I need to hear.  
> In this game it always seems to be two steps forward and one step back. 
> jimj     www.restore-a-deck.com.au

  I agree about the overexpectation of external timber situations, thats why I'm up for new technology. I worked with the plastic stuff when it first came out in the US. It was called Trex Deck & it seemed OK. I should contact the person over there & see how the stuff is holding up. There's an interesting blurb on the Modwood website from a magazine article that talks about the pro's & con's & differences in the various products. People may be turning their noses up at it because its not timber, but there's no reason to throw the baby out with the bath water & as far as I'm concerned there are enough problems associated with timber decking for me to look at this product without any pre-conceived ideas or judgements. I suspect that no timber decking will be able to maintain the consistency of appearance that these new materials will be able to after 6-10yrs, but time will tell. There's also the dirty truth about our addiction to Merbau & how this is fueling the disappearance of tropical rainforests through corrupt third world forestry practices. Merbau also has an external durability rating of only 3 . Lots of questions & lots of unknowns, but it looks like new technology in the form of building materials or coating products will help us get extended life out of our decks.

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## UteMad

I see your point on a few items re plastic decking... Modwood aside there are so many plastic decks that lob up on our shores from the US brought in by small companies by the container load boasting new improved fixing methods and finishes... The problem with a lot are that they are extruded so the ends need covering with plugs or as i have been told hardi plank (yuck) with these you can't do curves cause you can't fill the ends and if you cut anything other than 90 degress can't use plugs... The main prob though is the guy who imports the load thinking he'll make a motsa... He does the rounds of the yards gets no great response clears his load and disappears so when you come to a  few years down the track you can't source more boards or get backup.... If the boards looked like timber and had a semi textured face as some now do were solid and available in lengths up to 7.2 etc were priced at or below pine we would start to see the product being used in quite large quantities but until then the average consumer when they get a quote is Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight and won't  pay more than they have to  ...Also with they way property prices are they tend to be uptrading to progress through the market and aren't concerned with past 4-5 yrs which seems to be how long they percieve they will be there for.....
I am not against some composite decks i just don't feel they are placed correctly in the market at the moment for the general public...... 
cheers utemad  :Sneaktongue:

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## Carpenter

Utemad,I see your point about market placing. I dont agree it should be placed at the bottom of the pricing point with treated pine, but it is also not proven here in Oz as a premium product & also should not be priced as such. I agree about the hollow stuff......suspect, I'd go for the solid product. As we have discussed before in relation to tools, Aussies are driven by low price & this clouds our ability to see the value of quality & its long term benefits. If this product will hang in maintainance free for the stated 10yr warranty offered by the Modwood brand, then it deserves to be priced at a premium.

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## what the DECK

> Hi all 
> We are in the process of building a deck with Merbau floorboards (and an insulated roof). 
> Regarding coating the Merbau, the builder has suggested we put DWD onto it straight away, and not to worry about the Intergrain Dimension 4 pretreatment. However after reading all the comments here, and how it is recommended to let the Merbau weather, I am not too sure about what the builder is saying now .. 
> Should I be following the builders recommendations ? I would have thought they wouldnt suggest something that could be detrimental to the finish of the deck, and they have done nothing for me not to trust what they are saying - just this is getting to me a little  I wouldnt expect there could be much weathering to be done with a roof over the top.

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## what the DECK

Biffo
If you have a beautiful timber and want to appreciate it then treat it with a transparent penetrating oil. Acrylics and polyurethanes will give timber a pretty look but are best suited for painting concrete.
Beware of the so called oils which contain alkyd resins as this is the primary ingredient for gloss paint and again does nothing for a real piece of timber.
Penetrating oils will defer soluble tanins from seeping out but in any case oils can be touched up easily if any maintenance is needed so get it on sooner than later.
For cleaning, sodium percarbonate should be the first choice as it is more enviromentally friendly and does not damage the timber. In other countries it is sold as a concentrate however here it becomes a schedule 6 poison once over 35% so look for the no-name napisan.
Oxalic acid is a quick fix, it can eat away at the lignins which bind the fibres and I wouldn't want any splillage on my garden. :Smilie:  
Cheers 
mike

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## mic-d

> Biffo
> If you have a beautiful timber and want to appreciate it then treat it with a transparent penetrating oil. Acrylics and polyurethanes will give timber a pretty look but are best suited for painting concrete.

  Hmmm, I humbly wish to disagree with you.  You don't get any UV protection from a transparent oil, whereas you do from the newer acrylic products.  Products such as Spa-n-deck and Intergrain Ultradeck are easily touched up and do not suffer from blistering problems.   
Cheers
Michael

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## biffo

Thanks for all the info - I have contacted Tom as suggested by Jim and will get him out in a month or two. By the way - the deck is all up and going and currently putting the first coat of paint on the ballustrades and hand rails - what a job!

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## bknott

Hi guys been following this thread. I also building a pool deck with a hardwood frame and pine decking boards (245mm * 25mm). 
The last deck I build I used DWD (hardwood decking) but it sounds like this Flood Spa and Pool is the go. How do I get more information on this product. Also would it be suitable to use on the softwood deck. 
thanks 
Brian

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## jimj

For more information  go to www. Floodaustralia.net go to the heading woodcare and then to Spa&Deck .  You can also call the toll free number and ask to be contacted by the Qld technical advisor Tom Mcknight. 
    Good luck 
        JimJ       www.restore-a-deck.com.au

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## biffo

Just wanted to post an update.  
I called Jim and had a good chat to him, then called Tom from Flood and he made an appointment for a SATURDAY to come out and see me. He brought some product with him and gave a demo on my deck of the different products. Even brought the different coloured boards so I could make a choice of colour on my own deck! 
Ordered the product in, and following the advice I have been given. Spent all morning cleaning, then the prep, then put the Cedar Spa N Deck on, and I say it's come up a million bucks! Two coats on so far, will be putting another one on tomorrow sometime. Will post pics then. 
Thanks Jim for all your help - I owe you a beer or two - and for putting me into contact with Tom.  
Who knows what would have happened if i'd followed my builders advice!

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## biffo

Heres the pics of the deck as promised, the before pics are before i'd painted the handrails, the after is with the deck done with 3 coats of Cedar Spa N Deck. 
Note to self - next time stain first, paint second. Oh well no harm done - plenty of paint left!

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## Hoon

This is exactly why the internet is awesome. A bunch of individuals coming together to help out someone in need, resulting in a great finished product. 
JimJ and UteMad, (and a few others) the assistance you guys give to the masses here is absolutely fantastic.  All in your own time, and without expecting anything back.   :2thumbsup:  
I have 2 questions, though. How do you go walking on the deck between coats, I assume it's ok. just need to make sure your shoes are clean?? 
And, can the spa-n-deck be applied onto a new quila/merbu deck, after cleaning with napisan and oxalic acid?? or does it really need to be 'weathered'??

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## Larry McCully

There is not another forum like this one in the world anywhere. That what makes this forum so good. Its members are not afraid to share their knowledge.

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## UteMad

> This is exactly why the internet is awesome. A bunch of individuals coming together to help out someone in need, resulting in a great finished product. 
> JimJ and UteMad, (and a few others) the assistance you guys give to the masses here is absolutely fantastic. All in your own time, and without expecting anything back.  
> I have 2 questions, though. How do you go walking on the deck between coats, I assume it's ok. just need to make sure your shoes are clean?? 
> And, can the spa-n-deck be applied onto a new quila/merbu deck, after cleaning with napisan and oxalic acid?? or does it really need to be 'weathered'??

  
Hi Hoon  Yes you can walk on it between coats but with spa n deck your recoat time isn't very long so unlike oil you apply multiple coats in a day so you would have it finished in approx 2 days anyway assuming the deck isn't 100m2 or something.Jim and I coat the decks in bare feet to limit the tracking of dirt and product on the deck between coats and other reasonsIf your using spa n deck  your better to use there cleaners . Powerlift first followed by prep then apply their coating.Yes you can do a brand new merbau deck without waiting just follow the 2 fold cleaning process and all will be good.. I don't ever wait with merbau decks for them to weather as we prefer to coat straight away if possible as i believe the finished result is bettercheers utemad

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## Hoon

Thankyou very much.    :2thumbsup:

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