# Forum Home Renovation Roofing  Barge Board

## Canon

Hello all, 
I need some advice! 
I have a 30 year old home that has three roof gables.
I need to replace the barge board on all three. 
Just wanting to know what timber should I use for that job?
Obviously I only want to this job once in _20 years_ or so, so I would like to get some timber that will last as long as possible. 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated  :Biggrin:  
Thanks...

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## doug1

A picture would help, Why are you replacing all of the Barge board, can this be done as repairs, in sections 
I have done mine as replacement of damaged ends with either Oregan or Ply, or Treated pine depending on what is needed

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## Canon

Hi Doug, 
It could be done in sections, it is just the ends that have gone on them. 
As I have only just bought the house, I want to do them all together and do them once.
I think that if I replace on the bottom sections, I will have to the rest in a few years time. 
The board that will be replaced sits over AC sheeting.
They are all rotton on the ends and leak very badly, when it rains.... which in Geelong is not all that often  :Biggrin:     

> A picture would help, Why are you replacing all of the Barge board, can this be done as repairs, in sections 
> I have done mine as replacement of damaged ends with either Oregan or Ply, or Treated pine depending on what is needed

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## Hoff

Hi, 
I just did the ends of all of mine which were rotted too.  They were approximately 25 years old.  Obviously I had to match the remaining timber which was just ordinary treated pine fascia timber with the notches in them.

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## Canon

Hi Hoff, 
Thanks for that...     

> Hi, 
> I just did the ends of all of mine which were rotted too. They were approximately 25 years old. Obviously I had to match the remaining timber which was just ordinary treated pine fascia timber with the notches in them.

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## Bloss

> Hi, 
> I just did the ends of all of mine which were rotted too.  They were approximately 25 years old.  Obviously I had to match the remaining timber which was just ordinary treated pine fascia timber with the notches in them.

  That's pretty standard practice unless the whole board is showing signs of decay or failure. Remember too that the AC sheet it's over really is AC -asbestos cement. Bound asbestos so quite safe, but not to be drilled or sanded or sawn etc.

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## Canon

Hi Bloss, 
The bottom of the boards are showming more decay than the rest, I suppose the upper parts could do with a nice coat of paint to make them a little fresher. 
I actually thought about removing the AC sheeting, the gables are not tha big, 2000mm side to side, then replacing with stucco sheeting.
I will have to see how good of condition the AC sheeting is, and if I can remove it without breaking it?? 
Thanks again.....     

> That's pretty standard practice unless the whole board is showing signs of decay or failure. Remember too that the AC sheet it's over really is AC -asbestos cement. Bound asbestos so quite safe, but not to be drilled or sanded or sawn etc.

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## doug1

When replacing parts of my barge boards I have found a fein multi master invaluable to cut sections, have replaced the section thenjoined  with dowel and usually epoxy to join 
Sand and paint  some are approaching 5 years old now and are fine, though you will find nails through top asbestos sheet from under tiles that need to be cut 
Doug

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## Canon

Thanks Doug, 
I'm sure I will replace the whole lot.
I will use treated pine, 2 meter lengths at Bunnings are about $40... I think that's not to bad. I'll get 4 of those, and I am set! 
I must admit the AC sheeting is a worry! 
When I remove the existing boards, I will be extra carefull to ensure those sheets do not crack.   :No:      

> When replacing parts of my barge boards I have found a fein multi master invaluable to cut sections, have replaced the section thenjoined with dowel and usually epoxy to join 
> Sand and paint some are approaching 5 years old now and are fine, though you will find nails through top asbestos sheet from under tiles that need to be cut 
> Doug

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## Hoff

> Thanks Doug, 
> I'm sure I will replace the whole lot.
> I will use treated pine, 2 meter lengths at Bunnings are about $40... I think that's not to bad. I'll get 4 of those, and I am set! 
> I must admit the AC sheeting is a worry! 
> When I remove the existing boards, I will be extra carefull to ensure those sheets do not crack.

  That sounds a little expensive.  When I did mine I bought the pre-primed treated pine fascia board from Bunnings at around $9 per LM.  And you can get that in longer lengths than 2m to reduce need for joins.

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## Canon

That does sound a little expensive then! 
I'll have to head back to Bunnings tonight to see if I read the right price tag???  :Redface: )   

> That sounds a little expensive. When I did mine I bought the pre-primed treated pine fascia board from Bunnings at around $9 per LM. And you can get that in longer lengths than 2m to reduce need for joins.

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## Bloss

There is little danger from cracked sheets - just wear a good mask. It's only a potential problem if you use mechanical means to drill or sand or saw or otherwise create dust that you or other then breathe in. Remember that the deaths have been of exposures for relatively long times (a very few for short term exposures) and to significant quantities of asbestos dust and the risk increased rapidly for smokers. So again - keep a sense of proportion here - in both handling and any decision to increase cost by removal - it isn't really needed. 
Search on here or go to one of the government sites about asbestos handling to see how you have to dispose of it where you are too - some states will only allow licensed removal and disposal others allow you to DIY, but restrict how it is handled and where it can be disposed of..

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## Canon

Thanks Bloss, 
Some sound advice there!
I guess the sheeting does not need replacing.
I'm sure it will stay like that for another 30 years  :Redface: ) 
I'm finding this website very helpfull, and full of great advice.
Once I hace done my work, I will have to post some photos on this thread  :Biggrin:

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## Canon

Oh.. here's another question, the gables I have are for a tiled roof.
I have read that some people have had issues trying to remove the whole timber, the very top part of the gable was causing some hassles. 
How are they fixed at the top?
To me it looks like they could just come off with some work from a wrecking bar?

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## Bloss

Varies a little, but in house of that age probably a piece of AC sheet (containing bound asbestos) was nailed to the top of the gable with clouts or fibro nails then the tiles allowed to run out to the edge and pointed up with mortar. The tiles will generally lift of easily - some will be nailed and sometime all edge tiles were, but not all that hard to lift.

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## Compleat Amateu

In my place (approx 35 yrs old), I have replaced a number of the barge boards, increasing the roof overhang in the process. 
I have used same-depth finger-jointed TP (38mm from memory) for replacment boards, and it is much easier doing the whole board IMO.  Note that for long lngths (5m +), timber retailers normally need notice, and it is easier to do in one piece, as long as you have an assistant to lift the other end! 
Other than that, pretty easy.
1.  Take the first tiles off the edge, ditch the AC stripping that's nailed to the top of the BB (in NSW, can dispose of > 10 sqm of AC if wrapped appropriately an taken to the right facility, and this stuff is only 50mm wide strip).  Oh, have the BB painted and ready to go.
2.  Rehang the new barge board.  I used spaghetti and nails
3.  Nail on new stripping in Hardiplank or some such
4.  Put tiles back - in my case, cut a whole lot more to widen the overhang - nailing as required
5.  Bog in with 3:1 mortar mix.  Use fat sand, makes it more workable.  Underfinish it, and don't worry about the colour (see step 6)
6.  Finish with - and I can't think of its name - tile pointing mix (these are my words).  Goes on with a trowel over the pointing mortar, 3-5mm thick from memory, sticks like sh*t to a blanket, super flexible in finish, comes in lots of colours.  Someone must know what it is called. 
I also ran a bead of high quality silicone into the underside junction of the top edge of the BB and underside of the cement sheet strip, to prevent water penetration into the top grain of the BB.  Belt and braces! 
That's it!   I only have about 15 BBs to go.  Oh well.

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## GraemeCook

Hi Cannon 
I am from the old school that thinks you should get more than 30 years before barge boards rot out.   Mine are around 130 years! 
May I suggest that you do the following to your new barge boards after cutting, but before you fix them in place:   saturate the barge boards in a good fungicide (eg TBT).  This bolsters the existing treatment.Paint with a metallic based primer - either zinc or aluminium - the metal dust reflects the heat and the UV out of the wood.Normal undercoat - either oil or water based.Two coats of UV restant exterior paint.
Then fix the barge boards in place - its much esier to paint them on the ground.   Then   Spot paint any nail or screw holesThen third coat of surface paint.
The multiple coats of paint may sound like overload, but they will give you longevity. 
Cheers 
Graeme

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## Bloss

My Dad was great fan of aluminium wood primers - they were brilliant. I haven't seen them for sale in Australia for yonks - maybe 30 years, but perhaps I haven't looked in the right places?

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## Canon

Hi there, 
Thank you for all that great advice! 
I have two weeks off in March, I plan to do them all then.
The good thing for me, the gable that the BB are going on are only 2000 wide, so each BB should be about 1000 each, that easy enough for me to hanhdle  :2thumbsup:  
I don't envoy your work, I only have 4 to replace!! 
Thanks again.     

> In my place (approx 35 yrs old), I have replaced a number of the barge boards, increasing the roof overhang in the process. 
> I have used same-depth finger-jointed TP (38mm from memory) for replacment boards, and it is much easier doing the whole board IMO. Note that for long lngths (5m +), timber retailers normally need notice, and it is easier to do in one piece, as long as you have an assistant to lift the other end! 
> Other than that, pretty easy.
> 1. Take the first tiles off the edge, ditch the AC stripping that's nailed to the top of the BB (in NSW, can dispose of > 10 sqm of AC if wrapped appropriately an taken to the right facility, and this stuff is only 50mm wide strip). Oh, have the BB painted and ready to go.
> 2. Rehang the new barge board. I used spaghetti and nails
> 3. Nail on new stripping in Hardiplank or some such
> 4. Put tiles back - in my case, cut a whole lot more to widen the overhang - nailing as required
> 5. Bog in with 3:1 mortar mix. Use fat sand, makes it more workable. Underfinish it, and don't worry about the colour (see step 6)
> 6. Finish with - and I can't think of its name - tile pointing mix (these are my words). Goes on with a trowel over the pointing mortar, 3-5mm thick from memory, sticks like sh*t to a blanket, super flexible in finish, comes in lots of colours. Someone must know what it is called. 
> ...

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## Canon

Hi Graeme, 
I agree 100% with what you have suggested, it all makes sense to me!
I think three coats is a great idea, and the undercoat.... I'll have to try and find that metallic under coat though... 
Any ideas where I could find that? 
Thanks so much for your help. 
Peter    

> Hi Cannon 
> I am from the old school that thinks you should get more than 30 years before barge boards rot out. Mine are around 130 years! 
> May I suggest that you do the following to your new barge boards after cutting, but before you fix them in place:   saturate the barge boards in a good fungicide (eg TBT). This bolsters the existing treatment.Paint with a metallic based primer - either zinc or aluminium - the metal dust reflects the heat and the UV out of the wood.Normal undercoat - either oil or water based.Two coats of UV restant exterior paint.Then fix the barge boards in place - its much esier to paint them on the ground. Then   Spot paint any nail or screw holesThen third coat of surface paint.The multiple coats of paint may sound like overload, but they will give you longevity.  Cheers  Graeme

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## Compleat Amateu

I endorse what Bloss and GC write 100%. I'm intrigued by the idea of using a metal-based primer. What are such primers? If Bloss hasn't seen them in a long time, that takes us back a loooooong time ....  
Are they still available that anyone know? Anything to avoid doing this whole exercise again in my lifetime.

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## Canon

Thanks to everyone for their great advice, it will be used when I replace the BB! 
The only issue i have now is time to do it!
And not having 120kg frame fall through the tiles as I walk on the roof  :Doh:

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## totoblue

> I endorse what Bloss and GC write 100%. I'm intrigued by the idea of using a metal-based primer. What are such primers?

  Zinc-based primer is widely available - called "Cold Gal" and used to prime welds on galvanised steel.  I have some made by White Knight.  It doesn't say anything on the can about using it on wood though, and it is quite expensive.

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## Bloss

> Zinc-based primer is widely available - called "Cold Gal" and used to prime welds on galvanised steel.  I have some made by White Knight.  It doesn't say anything on the can about using it on wood though, and it is quite expensive.

  Nah - the aluminium and zinc based primers of old were specifically made for wood - I think Berger maybe? The 'cold gal' primers also use a thinners solvent and need acetone for clean up usually - and are not suitable for wood.  :2thumbsup:  I found a UK product here: http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/t/TORALWP/ and a NZ one here: http://www.resene.co.nz/products/print_primers.htm - so maybe it is around here too.

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## Canon

Bloss, 
I just had a look for some aluminium based undercoat localy.
I found this by Dulux, it looks like it will do the trick!
Then I realised that this is from the Dulux UK site. 
Might go for a trip to Bunnings, see if they can help me.....?  http://www.duluxdecoratorcentre.co.u...0202&langId=-1  
Peter

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## totoblue

> Nah - the aluminium and zinc based primers of old were specifically made for wood - I think Berger maybe? The 'cold gal' primers also use a thinners solvent and need acetone for clean up usually - and are not suitable for wood.  I found a UK product here: http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/t/TORALWP/ and a NZ one here: http://www.resene.co.nz/products/print_primers.htm - so maybe it is around here too.

  The cold-gal I have cleans up in turps, according to the can. 
Resene is available in some shops in Australia.  http://www.resene.com.au/comn/cshops/cshop_nf.htm

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## GraemeCook

> Hi Graeme, 
> I agree 100% with what you have suggested, it all makes sense to me!
> I think three coats is a great idea, and the undercoat.... I'll have to try and find that metallic under coat though... 
> Any ideas where I could find that? 
> Thanks so much for your help. 
> Peter

  
Hi Peter 
You can get them from specialist paint stores, perhaps b.. and m10, with the zinc based stuff being more common than the aluminium.   A paint chemist explained them to me as the legal replacements for red lead and white lead. 
I checked my shed and I have part cans of:  Taspaints (zinc based primer).   Spilt paint so I cannot read rest of label.   It was the owner/paint chemist of Taspaints who gave me the original good advice.   Taspaints are a Hobart based paint manufacturer.Dulux Trade Aluminium Wood Primer.
Both these paints clean up with turps and a tin is much heavier than a tin of other paints.   They need more initial stirring than other paints and you have to stir them every 15-20 minutes while you are using them.  This is because the metal powder in the paint settles out slowly.   A bit of effort but worthwhile. 
Cheers 
Graeme 
PS:  I do not think these are the same product as "cold galv",  but often the same product is sold with different labels so who knows.

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## Bloss

> The cold-gal I have cleans up in turps, according to the can. 
> Resene is available in some shops in Australia.  http://www.resene.com.au/comn/cshops/cshop_nf.htm

  I stand corrected - the two brands I use both need acetone or thinners for clean up - wish it was turps!

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## totoblue

> I stand corrected - the two brands I use both need acetone or thinners for clean up - wish it was turps!

  The can I have that cleans up with turps is _Metal Guard Cold Gal_ by _White Knight_, sold by Bunnings 2? years ago.  Don't know whether Bunnings still sell it since they have changed their stocked paints (e.g. in with Nippon paint and out with most Wattyl paints). 
The _White Knight_ web site now says their cold gal (still turps clean up) is called _Rust Guard Cold Gal_.  Comes in a spray can as well as ordinary cans.

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## Canon

Just a quick update & thank you. 
I have replaced the barge boards on the gables on my roof.
Once I had a good look, they were rotten all the way through, and were not hard at all to remove, they crumbled off! 
I went to Australina Treated Pine in Geelong, a very helpful business,
They did not have the right thickness timber, so they ripped it down the right size for me.
I applied two coats of enamel undercoat, then two coats of acrylic paint. ( a lovely mission brown! )
I cut the timber to size, and they all slipped into place without any probelms.
They were fixed into place with screws. 
Thanks again for the marvellous advice, it was very much needed by myself & apreciated. 
Now, onto my next project...  :Biggrin:

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## Bloss

That's what we are here for - nice to hear back that it all went well too!  :Biggrin:   :2thumbsup:

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