# Forum Home Renovation Cladding  BGC Nuline fibre cement weatherboard

## JB1

Hi, 
Has anyone used BGC Nuline fibre cement weatherboard? 
I asked for a quote from my building supplier for James Hardie Scyon Linea 4200 x 180 x 16mm Fibre Cement Weatherboard Scyonâ„¢ Lineaâ„¢ weatherboard | James Hardie and the quote came back with BGC Nuline 4200 x 205 x 14mm BGC Innova - Nuline Plus | Weatherboard Style House Facades 
The price for BGC  is quite a bit cheaper, especially when you are talking house lot.  
From what I can see, the difference is the James Hardie is 180mm and thicker at 16mm versus BGC  205mm at 14mm. 
Any difference in quality, ease of installation etc? 
Happy to pay more for James Hardie if it's a better product, but willing to save if it's the same quality. The slight difference in profile is neither here nor there for me.

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## atregent

I did my whole house in 175mm NuLine, came up great.  
It's a pain to install though, had to predrill every nail hole and do all the cuts with a diamond blade on my angle grinder (I imagine the JH version would be much the same though)

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## Eggman

I’ve used it a couple of times, couldn’t tell the difference (to scyon linea)  
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## Optimus

> I did my whole house in 175mm NuLine, came up great.  
> It's a pain to install though, had to predrill every nail hole and do all the cuts with a diamond blade on my angle grinder (I imagine the JH version would be much the same though)

  You couldn't use a fibre cement blade on a drop saw?

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## JB1

> I did my whole house in 175mm NuLine, came up great.  
> It's a pain to install though, had to predrill every nail hole and do all the cuts with a diamond blade on my angle grinder (I imagine the JH version would be much the same though)

  Why did you need to pre drill? 
That was my next dilemma, 175mm or 205mm?   

> I’ve used it a couple of times, couldn’t tell the difference (to scyon linea)  
> ====

  Excellent just what I wanted to hear. 
I'll double check with my chippie just in case but if the results are the same, I'll may go for the BGC, works out about 10% cheaper using this supplier. 
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## TheHammer

I'm in the process of cladding my own house. We went with the 150 Linea. We like the look of the narrower boards...more timber like . Ironically its about 10% less expensive per length. It covers about 20% less area per length.  
We were also offered the BGC. Its even wider than the 180 Linea. I believe the BGC was about 10% less expensive. 
Read the install manuals. The Linea can be gun nailed up to 50mm from the ends. You need to drill and hand nail any closer. I bought a 305 Ozito slider from the Green Monster. 305 Hardie diamong blade cuts like butter. If I didn't use that, I'm using a cheap circular saw for cutting the angled pieces under the gabled roof and the notches under the windows. 
Grinder is no fun. 
One thing to keep in mind is the cost of the external corner boards and architraves. I've bought a scary amount of 90 x 42 losp. You need it because 16+16=32 total coverage of the cladding. Hardie make own fibrecement stuff as well. Its the same cost.

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## JB1

In the end decided to use JH Scyon linea 180. It was what the carpenter was use to and a little thicker profile which I like. 
The price of the cladding is one thing but all the assessories, corners etc all add up. JH diamond blade is crazy expensive .. I'll be asking for it back from the chippy at the end lol. 
Ended up battening it rather than direct to the frame.  
Doing two layers of wall wrap, one on the stud, and one on the battens.. can't hurt to have it extra air tight.   
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## pharmaboy2

Looks good.  I thought the whole idea of the cavity was so moisture getting through allowed the boards to dry.  I can’t think of any advantages to another layer of airtight wrap, but keeping the boards damp can have disadvantages . 
if you want to make it super airtight, use the super tack black tape on all joins, and foam/seal the window reveals .  Ie make sure the one you’ve done works well.

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## JB1

The first layer mostly goes all the way down to the bottom plate, which I can't do if it was only single layer because the flashing is higher much higher than bottom plate. 
I suppose we could have placed flashing before the wrap and battens.  
Being cement sheet it should dry naturally anyway.  
Yeah all the joins have black tape. I will also use low expansion foam between reveals and stud.  
It was only $650 installed for each layer of wrap, so I though why not?

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## pharmaboy2

Hang on, are you saying it goes behind flashing, and doesn’t drain? 
it needs to have an opening at the bottom between the wb and the wrap for condensate drainage and also storm moisture.  Also the wrap should lap over the flashing - if this hasn’t been done, it might be acceptable to tape the flashing to the wrap to enable it to drain onto the roof (looks like a second storey to me).  You should be able to have a storm and the building stay dry with just the wrap there is how I understand it. 
hopefully you ave access on the other side, because that would make taping wrap to flashing easy as (one person either side of the wall)

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## JB1

The outer layer wrap makes it watertight. 
Sits in front of the flashing.  
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