# Forum Home Renovation Brickwork  Re-attaching threaded rod in masonry

## gggg

Whats the best product to repair a threaded rod that has pulled itself out of brickwork.  Was thinking of just purely using  Ramset Chemset 101.    Not sure if I still need to use a sleeve.  Only need to fix up one rod.   I do have a decent crack in outdoor concrete which Lanko duragrout comes to mind and reading the product documentation it says can be used for anchor bolts.   Not sure if I can kill 2 birds with one product, but chemical adhesive is probably less mess on brickwork I guess.  
It's a m17 threaded rod,     2 per hinge (2 hinges in total) holding up a hefty metal frame / wooden plank gate door.    Only the bottom threaded rod has worked itself loose, due to a broken hinge.

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## droog

Could be a trick of the photography but going on the measurements on the vernier are you certain it’s m17 ? 
Looks like a threaded rod was jammed in an oversized hole and some muck was thrown in in an attempt to keep it there.
With Chemset the hole size is based on thread size in general use that is 2mm larger than the thread size, your hole looks to be double the size. I would look at some of the expanding anchors to see if there is something that will fit, otherwise reposition and redrill.

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## phild01

Hi gggg, please use this site's image uploader for your pics, not links.

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## gggg

Kinchrome measuring tool confirms its m17, rod isn't that long.  OD of sleeve is 16mm, so thats about the size of hole, loose fitting.   I didnt notice until now that the threads where grinded flat square to make it fit, inserted in sleeve with gloop in there. 
Apologies phild01, I cant get the image uploading functionality working.

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## phild01

> Apologies phild01, I cant get the image uploading functionality working.

  Possibly you need to reduce the pic file size!

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## Marc

No such thing as M17. Metric bolts go m10 - m12- m14- m16- m18 etc
That bolt in your picture is either M10 or M12. It seems to have the remnant of an expanding jacket that is possibly 16mm diameter. 
Relocating the hinge is one logical solution, but if not possible, you will need to improvise a stud that is 16 on one side and 12 ( or 10)  on the other side.
Get a M16 bolt the right length, counting the depth of the hole and the length of the bolt you need outside the wall. Cut the head off and carefully grind the section that needs to be outside the wall down to 12 or 10 mm. Cut the new thread and you are done. 
To glue in brick, you need a surgically clean hole, blown clean repeatedly and brushed and blown clean again. Chemset 101 is good for that. turn the bolt as you inser it in the glue and don't touch it till the next day. 
Another option if you don't want to cut threads and lose the galvo, is to find a thread reducer, from 16 to 10. A fastener place will have them. You will need to cut some grooves on the outside of the reducer that is flat for the glue to grip.
Or use one of these, (not the intended purpose) https://www.allfasteners.com.au/hydr...d-stud-adaptor

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## droog

> Kinchrome measuring tool confirms its m17, rod isn't that long. OD of sleeve is 16mm, so thats about the size of hole, loose fitting. I didnt notice until now that the threads where grinded flat square to make it fit, inserted in sleeve with gloop in there.

  
If the OD of the sleeve is 16 mm then the thread is not M17. M17 thread is 17mm accross the thread, not the nut or any other part that the thread goes into.

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## Marc

M17 is the new sidearm for the US military, made by SIG Sauer in 9mm Parabellum.  :Smilie:

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## gggg

OK I feel like a goose now.   its 17mm nut not m17..   so thread size is m10.     Threads were grinded down to 8mm (square)  to fit into hole with sleeve with whatever chemical adhesive.   Thanks Marc for the ideas.    The hinge is broken so I need to grind off the old one and weld on a new one

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## Marc

:2thumbsup:  
Don't forget to post pics of your progress

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## Tools

The sleeve is for wire cut bricks or hollow blocks. If you have solids then no sleeve required. 
Tools

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