# Forum Home Renovation Painting  Painting in what order ?

## devo2006

Hi all,
Im just wondering in what order would i paint a room, e.g  ceiling  then walls then architraves and doors. Or is it ceiling architraves and doors then walls... does it matter ?? and should i do room to room or do i go through and do all ceilings then all walls and so on ??? hope this does not sound to stupid as i only want to do this once and right the first time and not muck up something i've already done... would love any advise please.

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## Floop

Ceilings first, mainly because you don't want paint dripping down on your freshly painted walls.  Then walls, then architraves and skirtings etc.  I think it's either/or for the archs and walls, but I've found it easier doing the archs and the like last. 
I'd probably go through and do all of the ceilings first, that way you're not constantly switching rollers and paint trays for the different colours.  You'll be doing enough of that later if you're using a range of different colours for the walls.  And even if you're not, it just keeps the changing to a minimum, and lets the rooms dry while you are painting the others.

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## jago

As floop  said ...I was taught becuase of drying times. 
Wood undercoat
Ceiling
Walls 
Wood Topcoat   :2thumbsup:

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## montiee

When I do it it's usually ceiling then architrave then walls.Just find it so much easier masking the architrave than the wall in the end and I can use the roller right up to the architrave as the thickness doesn't matter of the roller since we are up against the edge of architrave. Doing it the other way around I find that unless I use wide masking tape I run the risk of accidently painting the wall once i get tired.. I'm not a pro  :Wink: .

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## Strom

Onya Jago at least sum1 knows where there at...    :2thumbsup:

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## phillta

Where do cornices come into the equation? Ours will be white, same as the ceiling, but the walls will be different. Should we tackle cornices, then ceiling, then walls?

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## Strom

Obviously if they are same colour as ceiling (The norm).
They are painted same time as cutting in the ceiling..
It obviously don't matter if you get the ceiling colour on the walls as this will be covered bye the wall colour..
Pretty straight forward really !!! 
&this is done after ceiling and walls have been primed / undercoated if they are new !!! 
Goodluck..

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## phillta

Straight forward for the pros, but us ammos need a bit of reassurance, and for that I thank you! 
We will prime with a 50/50 mix of paint and water unless you reckon that is daft...

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## ringtail

The tech term for that is a piss coat

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## Strom

Sorry..
I am not overly Fond on "Piss Coats"..
If the ceiling walls are new you should first prime with a Sealer / Primer.
I am fond of Solver Maxi PSU..
But every paint manufacturer has there own equivalent..
Coat with this first and you are guaranteed a good bond and you wont see the different sheens between paper and plaster joints.
Ask your local paint supplier sometimes they have damaged cans that you can pick up fairly cheap..
Just be sure to stick with the premium lines the Hobby /trade lines are a false Economy !!! 
Goodluck..  :2thumbsup:

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## Tarasa

Paint cornice and ceiling edges. If you get it on the walls don't worry, you'll paint over it with a colour. Then ceiling, rolled up to edges.
Then all trims. 
Then walls, then you only have to cut in around trims and cornice once (well twice as you will no doubt do 2 coats)

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## montiee

> Sorry..
> I am not overly Fond on "Piss Coats"..

  Never saw the need quite frankly either. Just seems like more work diluting undercoat. Can anyone explain WHY this is ever done aside from diluting it if you intend to use a cheap paint sprayer?   

> If the ceiling walls are new you should first prime with a Sealer / Primer.

  Wish someone had told the guy who did my place. You dont do this then be prepared for paint to come off in patches. Alot of work to correct which I'm in the middle of doing.. It sucks @@@@. The binder is the important part of the equation in new work, espcially for the gyprocked areas. Stops the powder coats from peeling back later.   

> Paint cornice and ceiling edges. If you get it on  the walls don't worry, you'll paint over it with a colour.

  Depends how "thick" the droplets are  :Wink: ... if it's a normal brush stroke sure but if you are dribbling droplets of paint that isn't going to be painted over once dry  :Wink: .

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## jago

> Depends how "thick" the droplets are ... if it's a normal brush stroke sure but if you are dribbling droplets of paint that isn't going to be painted over once dry .

  
You should always give the walls a light scratch after painting ceilings to stop this anyway.
Pop used to say 80% prep and 20% painting is required. :2thumbsup:

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## wolf_rt

Thaught this may be of assistance, written by me on another forum.. 
1. do we need to wash the walls first given the house is only 8 years  old? If so, should we use sugar soap or cloudy ammonia? 
2. what  order should we paint in? i.e. skirting/architraves, ceiling, walls etc. 
3.  should we start with an undercoat even though the walls are already  painted? 
4. is Dulux wash/wear overrated or are there better  value for money options available? 
Probably wouldnt need to wash  anything except around the stove and possibly the bathroom if  mouldy/scummy.. 
I would recomend sanding everything... get a pole  sander and a decent (cheap) 1.2m extention pole with 120 grit 'white'  paper. and sand all the ceilings and walls up and down, moving 1/2 the  sander width on each pass. you can 'flip' the sander and gouge the  wall/ceiling, the round (expensive) sanding heads prevent this.  
Or  you can patch the gouge you put in the wall with the sander at the same  time you patch ant other defect you can find. Use A multi-purpose joint  compound (premix plaster) (from hardware store) not some spak filler  type stuff and SKIM coat any defects TWICE allowing to fully dry between  coats 2 hours or so for first coat then 30min for second.. look for  'popped' nails in the walls ceilings knocks at waist/eye level... get a  torch close to the wall if your keen. 
undercoat your patches -  dont leave 'fat' edges (little rollers are good for this) 
undercoad  should not be required (and will not noticably affect the finish.)  paint a test patch with your wall paint, and see if it scratches off  after 3 days if you'r worried. 
if your ceilings are in good  condition one coat of trade quality acrylic ceiling flat should be  fine.. if your not satisfied with the finish do a second coat 
Thorughly  sand all frames and doors and use a good quality 3 in 1 type undercoat.
DO  NOT BRUSH DOORS, use a roller (use a mohair or seamless foam roller for  gloss enamel) 
Undercoat your doors and frames keep the paint  thin enough to avoid brush marks. 
Use a quality gap filler in all  cracks: backs of frames, cornice, skirting, frames ect. 
for a  excellent finish re-sand the frames and re-undercoat at this point 
Now  do the walls.. 2 coats of a premium quality low sheen is my  recomdation. wash and wear paints can be difficult to use and show more  defects/poor technique than  regular low sheen which is quite forgiving.
if  'washibility' is a primary concern, then wash and wear paints arnt  ideal anyway, they still scuff and stain. a satin paint is the answer  here but will likley provide unsatisfactory results for the amatuer (or  the professional unless the wall/plastering is excellent) wash and wear  paints are a 1/2 way between these products in washibility, and about  1/3 of the way in sheen level (ie. more noticable defects) 
Use  Oil based gloss for the frames/door UNLESS your trim colour is white  then use water based enamel, which is hard to use. 
get GOOD brushes and roller sleves. 
one 75mm-88mm  $40 and one 'thin' 60mm $30 should be fine even for 2 people. this will  encourage you to clean it EVERY DAY (turps-less cleanup stuff is good)  this is so that it stays in shape, not so its clean, use a wire brush to  clean any buildup off the ferrule (with the bristles obviously)
use a  mohair or seamless foam roller to gloss the doors. A lambswool roller  will leave a heavier pattern in the wall (will hide poor plastering ect)  and is easy to clean. synthetic rollers leave a smoother finish. 
cheap  roller frames are just as good as expensive ones. (within reason) 
plastic  dropsheets are good for furnature, but get 2 or 3 proper canvas ones  for the floor. 
Hope this helps.

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## jago

One coat a ceiling in trade paint ...only if you want it grinning at ya... Rollers leave a crap finish on all surfaces use a brush and learn to use it I say !  :Biggrin:

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## montiee

> One coat a ceiling in trade paint ...only if you want it grinning at ya... Rollers leave a crap finish on all surfaces use a brush and learn to use it I say !

  Honestly I find foam rollers the best. Brush to get a shitoad up there then over with foam to remove any brush marks

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## wolf_rt

jago, i said do one coat and see how it looks, no point doing 2 if 1 looks ok.. 
i have had no problems with 'professional trade' flats premium products can go sheary just as easily. 
do you sujest brushing undercoat on flat doors? you'd have brushmarks everywhere.
fair enough, for gloss enamel, however tipping doors off is a bit of an art, and i would sujust most diy'ers would get a better finish with a roller. 
if your carefull with laying off and paint viscosity a rolled door should be nearly as good as sprayed. 
yes tipping off can leave a mirror finish, it can also leave brushmarks all through your door.. 
if you can brush water based enamel on a flat door and get any sort of acceptable finish i would pay to see it. 
foam rollers are good, and disposeable, cleaning rollers with turps is not fun.
make sure you get the seamless ones though.

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## shampson

Or is that learned??? 
Anyway... am in the middle of restoring a 95 yo house in Sydney and painting is one of the key items. Happy to share a couple of things learnt: 
As far as order - I kept being told "ceilings (incl corninces), walls and then skirtings/architraves as this is what all the professionals do.  I do think doing the architraves before the walls has merit but understand that an oil paint on the architraves won't take kindly if you are going to tape or use a cutting in wheel brush (as they take time to harden and will mark).  So I have now learnt to keep everything at a similar stage.  That is - prep everything, then paint ceilings (for the reasons stated by others - drips on walls won't bring tears if not yet painted), then undercoat walls and then undercoat architraves/skirtings.  Lightly sand architraves and skirtings as required before doing wall top coats, and then finish with architraves/skirtings before cleaning up. 
As for "do I do all ceilings first throughout house, and then ..." - do a room by room - it means you can contain all the dust, odours, etc in one room that can be emptied, and it also means you can see the end result which inspires you to go on.  And the best reason for this - choose a room that is not too important and use it to learn on (eg: a study or small bedroom) and refine colour choices - it is easier to fix / repaint a small room ! 
But most importantly - give things real time to dry.  Whilst a can may say "touch dry in hours", this doesn't mean it will remain pristine with putting hands and tools all over it,  trying to put items back in place.   
The other item I learnt - water based paints are fine for walls and ceilings, but to me, still don't compare to oil based for wooden skirtings and architraves. 
And lastly - don't be afraid to ask advice from the paint store - they are very helpful. 
Hope this helps.

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## Black Cat

Yep, I have to agree that an oilbased glass will give you a sturdier finish on archtraves, sills and skirtings than a high gloss water-based paint. I am using it on the older part of my house and the results speak for themselves.

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