# Forum Home Renovation Television, Computers & Phones  Home Network Solutions (Wired)

## dabba

Hi, 
Im in the process of completing a reno at home, part of it includes providing a wired network throughout the house where required.
In relation to the wired network, I have some questions:  Are there any issues with installing the wireless router in the drywall cavity? Note - I have installed airvents on both ext and int walls plus suitable access via a removable vent. Plus I have good access to run ethernet cable up through the wall cavity (from below).A standard 'Telstra Cable' broadband wirless router has 4 ethernet ports. I propose to distribute each to a seperate room where required.In one room there are multiple devices required to connect to the network (wired - pc, media player, foxtel etc...), is it best to use an ethernet switch or hub to connect these devices in the room?What is the difference between a ethernet hub and ethernet switch?In another room of the house where the wireless range is at its weakest, I am proposing to configure a wirless router to act as a 'switch/hub' (for wired devices) and to extend the wireless range in that part of the house. 
Note - the wirless router is currently located at a central part of the house, but is very limited on the wireless range. Ive heard that providing boosters can reduce the bandwitdth...? 
Any advice is appreciated 
Thanks 
Dabba

----------


## Armers

> Hi, 
> Im in the process of completing a reno at home, part of it includes providing a wired network throughout the house where required. Wire also where not required, its better to over wire then under wire
> In relation to the wired network, I have some questions:  Are there any issues with installing the wireless router in the drywall cavity? Note - I have installed airvents on both ext and int walls plus suitable access via a removable vent. Plus I have good access to run ethernet cable up through the wall cavity (from below). You can't have that in a drywall cavity, find yourself a top shelf in a pantry or linen press.. You'll need to have access to it.A standard 'Telstra Cable' broadband wirless router has 4 ethernet ports. I propose to distribute each to a seperate room where required. That is a good optionIn one room there are multiple devices required to connect to the network (wired - pc, media player, foxtel etc...), is it best to use an ethernet switch or hub to connect these devices in the room? If you have a single run with a switch on the end of it vs many runs which then connect to a switch you're still going to have to go through the switch... In a domestic environment you wont flood this connection. In saying that you should be running at least 2 ports to each sot anyway, 4 maybe to the tv area. Remember, Ethernet (cat5-6) can be used for things other then data.What is the difference between a ethernet hub and ethernet switch? see here, plenty of info Let me google that for youIn another room of the house where the wireless range is at its weakest, I am proposing to configure a wirless router to act as a 'switch/hub' (for wired devices) and to extend the wireless range in that part of the house. If you feel your wireless is lacking then you can set up a 2ndry Wireless Access Point in the weak part of the house via an Ethernet port or get yourself a better wireless access point.   
> Note - the wirless router is currently located at a central part of the house, but is very limited on the wireless range. Ive heard that providing boosters can reduce the bandwitdth...? Boosters are fine and in most situations bandaid the problem, but if your cabling up a house do it properly the first time and you should have no need for boosters. 
> Any advice is appreciated 
> Thanks 
> Dabba

  Cheers

----------


## dabba

Thanks Armers. 
To follow on regards the location of the router, the room I'm current renovating is where the router will be located. I'm proposing access to the cavity wall via a vent/blanking plate (good access) and good for running cables into. My main concern was interference from close proximity of the walls..? Still a bad idea?
Other than that, currently I'll be left with a F connector and RJ45 coming out of the wall (as the room is currently bare but will be a bedroom, plus very central in the house). 
Regards the switch/hub, are you saying it doesn't matter wether you have the switch at the router or in the room where the numerous wired devices are? (Tapped off one port of the router) 
Dabba  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

----------


## Armers

> Thanks Armers. 
> To follow on regards the location of the router, the room I'm current renovating is where the router will be located. I'm proposing access to the cavity wall via a vent/blanking plate (good access) and good for running cables into. My main concern was interference from close proximity of the walls..? Still a bad idea?
> Other than that, currently I'll be left with a F connector and RJ45 coming out of the wall (as the room is currently bare but will be a bedroom, plus very central in the house). 
> Regards the switch/hub, are you saying it doesn't matter wether you have the switch at the router or in the room where the numerous wired devices are? (Tapped off one port of the router) 
> Dabba

  I still wouldn't be installing  electrical equipment into a wall cavity, even if your going to be hiding it with a blanking plate.. Its just a silly idea. They heat up and need some good circulation around the devices. Hence the top shelf of a cupboard or hell even a cupboard in the garage, or under the stairs.  
As for the switch, you'll find the internet speeds max out before you max out a domestic gigabit network. A single run to the tv are will be fine with a switch at the end, but as i said before if you're going to be running cables its better to run 2 - 3 or 4 to that area as a just in case.. Its logically simpler to run two cables if there is only ever going to be one or two devices at that av area, but if there is going to be 6 or 7 then, a run with a switch would be better then 8 runs of Cat5/6... but then again 8 runs cuts out a 2ndry switch... Just depends on what you're doing, what you're streaming and so on! 
Cheers

----------


## dabba

Thanks for the tips, will see how we go...  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

----------


## davegol

when I did my house, I ran dual CAT6 to all points, and 4x to the study (where most of my gear is).
When we finally wired in the plates, we discovered 2 of the runs were busted. 
Lucky there was a backup.
For the cost of running CAT6, I'm happy to have unused cabling in the wall, rather than having to try and replace some broken cables.

----------


## dabba

Davegol 
Agreed! 
Once the gyprock is back on the walls, it might not be so easy to run the cable. 
Better to have it and not need it I guess... 
Q - Cat 6 cable is the preferred cable type for performance, but what is the difference in price against cat 5, cat5e etc...? 
Thanks  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

----------


## davegol

these days not much difference in price.
CAT5e is the minimum I would put in, but I managed to get CAT6 for roughly the same price, so I went with this.
Given how difficult it is to change, this is one area where I'd splash out for some future-proofing.

----------


## FrodoOne

Since you are doing a renovation may I suggest that you think a little bigger than you may be doing at this time.
To that end perhaps you should read the following post - plus the associated thread  and consider your future needs and Structured Cabling.  http://www.renovateforum.com/newrepl...reply&p=935417

----------


## dabba

Taken the 'big picture' idea onboard and I'm looking into providing the cable run for the various cables. 
What's the preference for when you need to run cables perpendicular to thick floor joists? Cut a large enough circular hole, lots of small holes, channel out a groove in the joist etc..? 
Note - there might be gyprock attached to the floor joists at some point in the future (as it is the ceiling of the laundry part of the house).  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

----------


## dabba

In addition, can anyone advise what the longest distance you can transmit hdmi over ethernet?  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

----------


## Armers

> What's the preference for when you need to run cables perpendicular to thick floor joists? Cut a large enough circular hole, lots of small holes, channel out a groove in the joist etc..? 
> Note - there might be gyprock attached to the floor joists at some point in the future (as it is the ceiling of the laundry part of the house).

  Large enough hole is fine.    

> In addition, can anyone advise what the longest distance you can transmit hdmi over ethernet?

  Longest distance for hdmi over ethernet is restricted to the length an ethernet cable can be, which is 100mtr total cable(90mtr structural 2 x 5mtr patch)

----------


## uncleted

I doubt these would work over 100m total, assuming you are talking about the balun type devices that take a HDMI input and run it over two ethernet cables (using the pairs directly - they aren't actually ethernet.) 
They're a hack in a way as similar distances of HDMI cables are typically more expensive. 
They can work OK but the most I've seen quoted by the manufacturers are usually around 30-40m total.  You may be able to get more distance if you don't want 1080p.   Keep in mind your eBay Yum Cha branded CAT6 cable is possibly going to get a lot less than the maximum distance offered by the manufacturer too. 
Is there a practical reason you need to run a long bit of HDMI?  I'm pretty sure I read the thread but couldn't see any... 
The most obvious use of ethernet cables in AV would to be to locate a file server somewhere and then stream video/audio files from it using a WDTV or your SmartTV or Playstation or whatever.

----------


## dabba

I have a server (hub) where I'm looking to distribute to other parts of the house (where a media player, pc, smart tv located - connected to the LAN).
HDMI over ethernet is required for distributing certain set top boxes (if you know what I mean...) to other parts of the house. 
I also read a blog somewhere about 'Structured Cabling' for the future (I believe someone may have posted a link on this particular feed..?). That blog talks about provisions for the future (if the opportunity arises where you can do it).  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

----------


## Uncle Bob

> HDMI over ethernet is required for distributing certain set top boxes (if you know what I mean...) to other parts of the house.

  Hi Dabba, I currently do this with a Vulkano Flow. The Vulkano also allow me to watch and control my "set top box" anywhere in the world (we watch sport at work on a projector  :Wink:  ). Monsoon Multimedia Vulkano - Watch and control your TV from anywhere 
Though to stream it straight to another TV you need two units.
Cheers Bob

----------


## Armers

If you're going to be doing media distro then you're better to use a device at the other end or use the tv it self... IE samsung / lg tv's support plex server, if the tv doesn't support plex or the tv is to old then a combo of a raspberrypi and openelec will do the same thing, even use your phone / touchpad to control these devices.  
If you want a central disc player or one foxtel or one vhs blah blah blah then video distro via a HDMI matrix switch can start to get expensive.  
Btw, i have a few instances with 80mtr of 1080p runs via HDMI baluns which work no stress. Even 3d had no issue. so it is possible, but that starts getting expensive if you want quality. 
Cheers

----------


## uncleted

If you're talking about Foxtel, then I guess it could be arguably worth the money. 
Take a good look at Google reviews for these devices, consider whether you'll need to stump up for higher quality or shielded CAT6 cable as well if you have a longer run.  Also look at getting one that can feed back infra-red remote control signals for controlling the Foxtel box, the price will go up as you factor these things in.  You can definitely pay more for baluns which include boosters and equalisers which will get the signal to run further and more reliably. 
If you don't need it for that though, I wouldn't bother worrying about it.  Media players and file storage will be ultimately more flexible, upgrade-able and reliable than a few HDMI runs.

----------

