# Forum Home Renovation Flooring  Cracking & splitting baltic pine floors

## colonel1

Gidday all 
I have a problem and was hoping that someone could provide me some advice or had encountered a similiar problem. 
I have a 100 year old home and about a year ago I had my baltic pine floorboards sanded and poilshed (polyutherene). Once the job was done they looked excellent. 
Then in July this year we had our old ducted heating system (ie; 15 years old) replaced with a new more efficent unit. 
Then in the last month or so. I have started to notice that some of my floorboards were splitting and cracking. Some are like hair line cracks but then there are a couple of others which are wider and run 120cm in length. 
At first I thought they may have been caused as a result of movement in my house. But I have no cracks in my walls or architraves so ruled that. 
So I thought it must be my new ducted system causing the problem in that its drying all the air under my sub floor and generating a bit of heat under there. The strange thing is we didnt have this problem ( floorboards cracking) with the old heating system we had.  
My sub floor isnt that big in that a slim man lying on his back would have little or no room under there.   
Also when I was look at some of the cracks with a torch. I can see the duct directly beneath the crack. So I assume that they are touching some of the floorboards underneath. So wasnt sure if this was the problem. 
This is really starting to concern me and I dont want these cracks to get any worse. As I am not even sure how to fix the cracks and if its worth it when it might happen again. 
So I am looking for some help or suggestions of what the causes maybe as to why my floorboards are cracking and how I can fix it.   
Regards 
Colonel  :brava:   :Happydance:

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## Bloss

Hotter dryer air from the heating system is probably the cause of the boards drying out a bit more, but the issue is more to do with the polyurethane finish. Sound like it was oil solvent based not water based - the water based finish remains more flexible and moves as the floor expands and contracts. The oil based ones harden up quickly and then crack as the boards move. 
Some of the flooring guys on ere might have some ideas, but my experience is that there is no fix other than re-sanding and re-coating using a more flexible polyurethane finish or an oil - not what you want to do after such a short time. 
Another option, but expensive, is to install a humidifier into the central heating system.

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## Larry McCully

HI Colonel, i agree with old boss. The extra efficiency in your heating system would be drying out your timber more, During the summer months it should return to normal state.And he is correct about the coating, but in reverse. It is normally the oil based finishes that will fracture at the edge and allow for the board to move seasonaly. It is solvent based and some water based polyurethans that will cause a edge bonding and glue the boards together. This is common in poorly seasoned/installed flooring at  the time of construction, but this is not in your case.Yours is simply a drying issue. You may want to gain eccess under the floor and install insulation around any fluming. This will restrict any radiant heat from any venting components. when the heated air enters the room it will elevate upwards anyway. You need to isolate any subfloor heat from the heating system. Wrap all components in insulationj.

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## colonel1

> Hotter dryer air from the heating system is probably the cause of the boards drying out a bit more, but the issue is more to do with the polyurethane finish. Sound like it was oil solvent based not water based - the water based finish remains more flexible and moves as the floor expands and contracts. The oil based ones harden up quickly and then crack as the boards move. 
> Some of the flooring guys on ere might have some ideas, but my experience is that there is no fix other than re-sanding and re-coating using a more flexible polyurethane finish or an oil - not what you want to do after such a short time. 
> Another option, but expensive, is to install a humidifier into the central heating system.

  Thanks for the reply most appreciated. 
You suggestion of a humidifier is a good one. Any idea who I may able to speak to about this and do you reakon the cost might be. Any idea 
Thanks 
Colonel 1

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## colonel1

> HI Colonel, i agree with old boss. The extra efficiency in your heating system would be drying out your timber more, During the summer months it should return to normal state.And he is correct about the coating, but in reverse. It is normally the oil based finishes that will fracture at the edge and allow for the board to move seasonaly. It is solvent based and some water based polyurethans that will cause a edge bonding and glue the boards together. This is common in poorly seasoned/installed flooring at  the time of construction, but this is not in your case.Yours is simply a drying issue. You may want to gain eccess under the floor and install insulation around any fluming. This will restrict any radiant heat from any venting components. when the heated air enters the room it will elevate upwards anyway. You need to isolate any subfloor heat from the heating system. Wrap all components in insulationj.

  Thanks for the reply most appreciated. 
Any idea what sort of insulation I should be looking at and where I might get it from. 
Also do you think if I leave the ducted heating and do nothing. Do you think that the spiltting of my timber will continue to happen. 
Regards 
Colonel1

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