# Forum Home Renovation Paving  Gaps between pavers

## Mark CH

Hello All, 
I am looking to pave an area in our backyard that is partially over concrete (80%) and partially over soil (20%).  I am thinking of concreting the exposed area as I don't want to have to dig out all the extisting concrete.  One section of the concrete dips down at a relatively small angle for drainage into an exposed pit.  I have a few questions below; 
1. In order to accomodate (and camoflage) the change in level I'd like to leave a gap between each paver.  What is the maximum gap I can comfotably leave?  I think I'll only need 3-5mm.  Is this too much?
2. Should I fill the gaps with a mixture of sand and cement as I've read elsewhere or use another method to hold the pavers tight?
3. What is the best adhesive to glue the pavers down to the concrete with? 
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. 
Cheerio, 
Mark CH

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## Planned LScape

I'm a bit unsure of visualising the change in level from your description, but if the gaps in pavers are 3-5mm it shouldnt be too bad, but it would be better to make it all the same for consistency throughout the job.  
I wouldn't fill with sand/cement if they are porous, as it can stain the paver. If you are setting your pavers onto your concrete, hard grout is best. Use a 3:1 washed sand:cement mix, wet whole area and trowell in grout, then sponge clean. 
Not sure what pavers you are using, but generally better to use 6:1 brick sand:cement mortar mix to lay them on. You will get your changes in level easier with the thicker bed of mortar over the thin layer of tile glue.

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## Mark CH

Thanks Planned, 
The change in level is only small and I was planning to set out all the pavers prior to laying them permanently in order to make sure that all the gaps were uniform. 
We haven't chosen our pavers as yet so I'm just trying to work through the logistical issues first! 
Any advice on how thick the bedding mortar should be?  The paving will but up to a deck so I'll have to take into account the thickness of the paver. 
Cheerio, 
Mark CH

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## namtrak

Is there a real need for the mortar?  If you barge around the edges of the paving you could just lay the pavers over bedding sand.  If it's done properly the pavers wont be going anywhere.  I agree with a uniform gap right across the job, it would look a bit odd with larger gaps in one area.  5mm is bordering on too big a gap.  Generally I just use PaveLoc or something similar for the gaps, remember to sweep the whole job thoroughly before you hose it down.  This stuff sticks, and will make a mess of the top of the pavers if not swept off.  As for the drain, any time I pave around drains I generally leave about a 100mm space which I fill with concrete and screed off.  I find that particularly around drains you can get a fair amount of water ingress and after time the pavers can drop as the surrounding ground settles.  The concrete alleviates that to a degree and also guarantees the slope into the drain for the last 100mm.

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## Planned LScape

> Thanks Planned, 
> The change in level is only small and I was planning to set out all the pavers prior to laying them permanently in order to make sure that all the gaps were uniform. 
> We haven't chosen our pavers as yet so I'm just trying to work through the logistical issues first! 
> Any advice on how thick the bedding mortar should be?  The paving will but up to a deck so I'll have to take into account the thickness of the paver. 
> Cheerio, 
> Mark CH

  Mortar generally around 20mm thick. If the pavers are large (ie. 400 or 500mm) a short change in level can make the edges protrude from the surrounding pavers because of the size of it covering 2 different levels. This makes it hard to lay on sand, so mortar can give you more strength and control when tapping it to level.

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