# Forum Home Renovation Doors, Windows, Architraves & Skirts  Bathroom Skirting Repair - How to fill in behind the skirt?

## mmxx55

Hi all, 
Pretty rookie when it comes to renovating so keen to get any advice from the forum. 
Have had what looks like water from the shower head make its way through behind the head and work it's way along the door frame and down to the skirting. I suspect it occurred prior to my ownership (6 yrs ago) and the previous owners just had someone paint over it and hide it. 
The skirting as crumbled to bits so I've ripped it out. The door frame right near the bottom shows signs of bubbling etc too so I suspect the wood has been compromised.  
I'd like to repair it in preparation for tenants (going from PPR --> Investment property as I'm moving out). What are your thoughts for: 
1) Quick methods to make it visually appealing?
2) Proper repair work?         
Thanks
Kevin

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## FrodoOne

> Have had what looks like water from the shower head make its way through behind the head and work it's way along the door frame and down to the skirting. I suspect it occurred prior to my ownership (6 yrs ago) and the previous owners just had someone paint over it and hide it. 
> The skirting as crumbled to bits so I've ripped it out. The door frame right near the bottom shows signs of bubbling etc too so I suspect the wood has been compromised.

   Are you sure that it is from water "from the shower head".
What about from behind the taps - which is much more likely - or around the base or between the tiles - although they do not look bad from your photos. 
The *first* thing is to find the source of any water and stop it (i.e. seal the openings.) 
(What is the area in picture two and where is it in relation to the other area pictured?   You appear to have a problem developing in *that* area also !)  *After* you have found and stopped any water leak you will need to remove any/all affected timber (architrave/skirting etc.) treat, appropriately, any water soaked timber for rot and make any necessary repairs to the substrate.
Then, and only then, replace the architraves/skirting etc. and repaint.

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## droog

The point in picture 1 where you suggest the water is entering from is nothing more than a hook for the flexihead, if the water is coming from a leaking flange it is more likely where the flexihead hose connects the wall or the taps.
I would first suspect the tile to base or screen to tile junction particularly around the area where the damage is.
Is the timber that you exposed damp ? If so its not an old leak that has been repaired. 
Remove the tap handles and see what substrate is under the tiles and if there is any sighs of waterproof membrane, if no membrane it is possible water is getting through the grout lines.

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## mmxx55

Thanks for all the replies. 
To clarify: 
Photo 2 is of a second bathroom which shows the same traits, though not as extreme. 
I probably spotted this about 3 years ago, and it was a little damp at the time. I removed the tap heads and applied silicon around the fitting as I noticed it there were a lot of gaps between tile and tap fitting. I did the same for the shower head. There is no wetness and hasn't been any for quite a while, though from your replies it seems I should just remove the silicon and have a good look at the substrate? From memory, I couldn't see much from underneath the house when I was last under there. 
I'm a fairly novice home DIY person, though I have some tools at my disposal. Is it worth giving a go? Do I need to basically cut out the affected section, replace with new section and the reinforce/fill etc. and paint?
.

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## droog

If the moisture has dried up after you sealed around the tap spindles then it a good indication that may have been the problem.
Check under the house again and if its all dry and no sign of problems then replacement of the missing skirt and a fresh coat of paint may be all that is required at this point in time.
You may never know the full extent of the issue without complete removal of the shower so it really is a judgement call on what you can see, onsite observation will always outweigh photos on a forum.

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## FrodoOne

> Photo 2 is of a second bathroom which shows the same traits, though not as extreme. 
> I probably spotted this about 3 years ago, and it was a little damp at the time. I removed the tap heads and applied silicon around the fitting as I noticed it there were a lot of gaps between tile and tap fitting. I did the same for the shower head. There is no wetness and hasn't been any for quite a while, though from your replies it seems I should just remove the silicon and have a good look at the substrate? From memory, I couldn't see much from underneath the house when I was last under there.

   Are you really certain that the sources of any water leaks have been eliminated?
(This should be obvious if the damaged/rotted area is not now damp.) 
In any case, you should repair any significant "rot" in the substrate. The use of a product such as https://www.bunnings.com.au/earl-s-1...dener_p1585291 should be considered.
For this you need to dry the substrate.   
You may also consider the use of an epoxy resin, such as "Bote Cote (https://boatcraft.com.au/Shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15)", to coat the* dried and treated* wood fibers *after* all leaks have been stopped.

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## mmxx55

Hi everyone, 
Thanks for your feedback. I've had a good inspection of the area and there is no dampness at all (which is good). 
From underneath the house, nothing is really visible so I don't get much of a read from there. 
For now, I plan on cutting out the damaged section and replacing it with new skirting. How would you provide a suitable support for the skirting so that it doesn't cave in?   
As

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## wozzzzza

just use some builders bog behind it

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## mmxx55

Thanks to the community for the help/advice. 
I was happy that the substrate hadn't been damaged and that . 
For now, the simplest solution was for me to cut out the damaged skirting and replace it. Pictures attached. 
I didn't need to use builder's bog in the end. I cut the skirting very slightly oversized and tapped it in. Then I had some long plasterboard screws put through to hold it all together before filling, painting and then sealing along the sides. 
Not the best result I don't think, but good enough for what I needed to do (make it presentable for renting).

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