# Forum Home Renovation Waterproofing  water stop angle on concrete garage floor

## Chriski

In a nutshell, I would like to glue about 8 meters of 50 mm pvc or aluminium water stop angle to a garage concrete floor and the joint needs to be water proof for a few hours. A previous attempt with some thin walled PVC angle has not been successful as in spots water seeps between the concrete floor, the angle and the silicone. I think Selleys 3 in 1 Adhesive, Sealant & Gap Filler had been used.
·        Now I need to clean the previous glue attempt, any recommendations?
·        What silicone or other bond should I use for gluing down the new angle? 
Im over 70, not that age has anything to do with the challenge but the problem is taxing me and any good advice would be much appreciated. 
The longer version,
When it rains very heavily we have water entering the garage through the mortar of a double brick wall (about a litre or two a minute). Its a potential problem because there is a plasterboard dry wall for the staircase only about 2 meters away from where the water is seeping in at the far end of the garage. I have spent a fair bit of money and endless hours hard core digging up and re-routing storm water drain pipes but to no avail. The house is a few meters lower to the back and site neighbours the land is falling against the wall.  To waterproof the wall from the outside would be difficult and expensive and involve digging down 2 metres, working around sewer pipes and so on.
Im now thinking of an open internal drain by gluing down a 50 mm angle with about 100 mm distance for the whole length of the leaking wall. The concrete floor has a slight fall toward the front of the garage and therefore the water between the leaking wall and the angle would drain.   
Thank you so much for your help

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## Bros

You have come to the right place as many of the posters are full bottle on what you want.

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## FrodoOne

> When it rains very heavily we have water entering the garage through the mortar of a double brick wall (about a litre or two a minute). Its a potential problem because there is a plasterboard dry wall for the staircase only about 2 meters away from where the water is seeping in at the far end of the garage. I have spent a fair bit of money and endless hours hard core digging up and re-routing storm water drain pipes but to no avail. The house is a few meters lower to the back and site neighbours the land is falling against the wall.  To waterproof the wall from the outside would be difficult and expensive and involve digging down 2 metres, working around sewer pipes and so on.
> Im now thinking of an open internal drain by gluing down a 50 mm angle with about 100 mm distance for the whole length of the leaking wall. The concrete floor has a slight fall toward the front of the garage and therefore the water between the leaking wall and the angle would drain.   
> Thank you so much for your help

  I had a similar problem with a stand alone garage where a similar but much smaller leak occurred after days of rain had soaked the ground behind the garage - where the external ground level was about 300 mm above the garage floor level.  (However, we have not had days of soaking rain in Melbourne for quite a while now.) 
I "solved" my problem in a similar way to that which you suggest.  After roughening the existing cement floor, I built a small "ridge" of cement mortar across the rear of the garage with about a 25 mm "drain" gap between it and the leaking wall to the point where I wished the water to drain. 
If you use Aluminium or Plastic "angle" for this purpose, I suggest that you first fix it to the floor mechanically, using suitable "anchors" - such as screws and plastic "wall plugs" .  The screws and plugs should be at least 19 mm with the first ones installed near the ends and the remainder not more than 500 mm apart.   Using these, you will not be dependent on the adhesive qualities of whatever sealant you use. 
In this instance, I would not use a silicone sealant, since it may not be easy to finish it off and clean up in this situation. 
 I would use an acrylic sealant for this purpose, since it is easy to apply and can be cleaned up with a damp cloth.  It is also easy to work this into any gaps which may be left after the job is initially completed.  
If you use aluminium angle with metal screws, in theory, you could have a problem with electrolysis between the different metals used.   In practice this is not likely to be a problem for many years in the situation which you describe.  However, any such problem could be minimised by using stainless steel screws and/or fiber or plastic washers between the screw heads and the aluminium. 
I understand that there are silicone removers but I have not used any.  It may be sufficient to remove whatever is there by mechanical means (scraping and cutting) before   Fitting and screwing down the "angle",          thenRemoving itApplying the sealantScrewing down the angle "permanently".  
I do not know where you propose to allow the water to drain but I presume that you would endevour to keep it as far as possible from the plasterboard mentioned.  
Having 'started the ball rolling', I am sure that if anyone has any better ideas their advice will soon be forthcoming. 
Good luck!

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## Oldsaltoz

Hi Chriski,
That Silicon might be a problem, nothing will stick to silicon so if it ever needs any repairs you may problems, it's not easy to remove without solvents and that's not good in a closed area. 
Waterproofing the exterior wall would fix it but as you pointed out not cheap. 
Given that you want to control the water after entry, consider the following. 
1. Make sure you have a fall from the area that leaks to the exit point, or you may introduce another problem like mold on the walls, you want the drain to empty rather than add moisture to the air in a closed space. 
With such a low flow you will get away with a smaller angle provided you establish a fall. 
Concrete slabs can be very porous so you also need the inside of the drain sealed (waterproofed) after the angle is installed.  
You could install a 50 mm by 25 mm angle with the 50mm section on the slab and butted up the wall and seal the angle to the base of he wall thus avoiding the need to waterproof the inside. 
Sticking the angle down onto the slab is fine, adding screws will do little to strengthen it and will introduce other problems. Shower screen angles are directly stuck to the slab without problems every day using Sikaflex11FC (FC=Fast cure). 
Note: when applying the sealant to the floor for the angle, make sure ther are no thin areas and a snake like patern is used to widen the seal, then place angle on top and press down and in against the wall. Keep one hand on the angle when spreading any excess sealant. 
If you choose Aluminium angle, make sure it's Anodised. PVC will work in this situation but be more difficult to get the levels spot on as it bends very easily. 
Hope this helps. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## goldie1

What he said  :Arrow Up:   aluminium angle  and Sika 11FC  no screws.  Put some weights on the angle to  
hold it in place till the glue dries

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## SirMe

_Interesting thread..... 
Do allow for movement during summer and winter IMO..... 
Like others have said Sika products seem the best for this kind of job._

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