# Forum Home Renovation Lighting  Is it legal to run an appliance (TV) through a lighting switch

## simopimo

Before you tell me I need a sparky, relax, I'm doing a renovation and I've got a sparky coming in to terminate the roughed-in work shortly. So I won't be hooking anything up live, it'll all be checked by a sparky.  The reason I want to get this moving initially is because he's got a whole heap of things to do at my place next time he drops by and I forgot to ask him to do this last time, so I'd like to get it all prepared and ready. 
Anyway, disclaimer out of the way. Here's what I need done: 
I have a double GPO (which another double GPO is feeding from as well, so there's 2.5mm TPS in and 2.5mm TPS out).
There's a small TV on the wall near it, and we managed to feed a 3 core flex cable between the hole for the GPO and the hole for the TV.  I cannot feed anything larger.  The TV is only small -22 inch - and the flex cable is more than enough to run it. 
I want to be able to run the TV power from this cable - via its own switch from the GPO - ie. using a double GPO with an extra switch built in.  The reason I want to run it through the switch is so I can power it off at the point rather than having the TV live all the time. 
Is this legal?  So to summarise, is it legal to run an appliance from an extra switch in a GPO?  It's a double GPO with 3 switches.  Thanks in advance!!!

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## SilentButDeadly

Probably.  But it doesn't strike me as a particularly elegant or practical solution to the perceived problem.  Unless you have issues with triple or quad GPO's or TV power plugs.

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## Bros

Yes and No. You could run your TV from a lighting point if it is installed 2.3M above the floor and the TV is less than 150W. 
Now the problem you have is the extra switches on GPO's are not always lighting in that for lighting it need a separate circuit to be run to it. Some of the GPO's have extra switches integrated in them and they are classed as power. Now you can't run the flex in the wall you must run 2.5mm or if lighting 1.5mm and then it needs to be terminated 2.3m above the floor. If it is 2.5mm it can be a socket outlet so you can plug your TV into it and just have a separate switch. 
So as I said Yes and No.

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## simopimo

It was more the fact that the tv power, if spliced into the standard TPS cable, would effectively be "live" all the time because there'd be no switch for it. That's why I wanted to run it off the back of the third switch... Thanks for the reply.

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## simopimo

> Yes and No. You could run your TV from a lighting point if it is installed 2.3M above the floor and the TV is less than 150W. 
> Now the problem you have is the extra switches on GPO's are not always lighting in that for lighting it need a separate circuit to be run to it. Some of the GPO's have extra switches integrated in them and they are classed as power. Now you can't run the flex in the wall you must run 2.5mm or if lighting 1.5mm and then it needs to be terminated 2.3m above the floor. If it is 2.5mm it can be a socket outlet so you can plug your TV into it and just have a separate switch. 
> So as I said Yes and No.

  Ah, one of those grey areas.  It's a double GPO with 3 switches, and it's about 30 cm off the floor.  The TV however is about 1.7m off the floor, to the left of the GPO.

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## Bros

> Ah, one of those grey areas.  It's a double GPO with 3 switches, and it's about 30 cm off the floor.  The TV however is about 1.7m off the floor, to the left of the GPO.

  Grey to you it might be but to electricians it is black and white. I just added all the possibilities as I can's see the job and nothing will substitute for feet on the ground.

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## simopimo

> Grey to you it might be but to electricians it is black and white. I just added all the possibilities as I can's see the job and nothing will substitute for feet on the ground.

  Fair enough, thanks Bros.  Legal from a concept point of view but illegal due to heights, I get it. 
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## chalkyt

As Bros suggested in one of his options, simply have another single socket outlet installed up near the TV directly above the existing one. If it is a stud wall, the nogging between studs should be about half way up the wall. Locating the new socket outlet just above this should allow a long drill to go through the nogging for the new cable, and the Socket Outlet position will be just below the TV height. Assuming you do have an RCD protected power circuit this will all comply with AS3000.

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## simopimo

> As Bros suggested in one of his options, simply have another single socket outlet installed up near the TV directly above the existing one. If it is a stud wall, the nogging between studs should be about half way up the wall. Locating the new socket outlet just above this should allow a long drill to go through the nogging for the new cable, and the Socket Outlet position will be just below the TV height. Assuming you do have an RCD protected power circuit this will all comply with AS3000.

  Not an option unfortunately.  A cavity has been built for the TV in the plasterboard wall, and there is no room for a power point due to the shallow depth of the cavity.  But thanks for the reply anyway.  The only reason I need to run this off a remote switch is because the cavity itself is shallow.

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## koshari

my understanding of what you want to do is,  
have a double power point with an extra switch placed on a 2.5mm2 power cct. 
and switched from the extra switch have some 3 core flex run to a tv,  
the short answer to this is yes if your going to use 2.5mm2 flex, otherwise it will be no as you would be breaking gauge. 
you would still need some sort of a socket outlet on the other end of the cable such as a unswitched fan outlet., this would screw to the surface of the cabinet without any of the outlet penetrating the gap, but if that were the case you may as well run stranded 2.5 tps. 
again i may be interpreting what your asking incorrectly.

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## Random Username

You can get power point recesses that'll give you room for a GPO and the plug from the TV. 
Example: Wall plate / 240V / GPO / Electrical Power point recess - for 70mm and 90mm walls - In Stock at www.thecableconnection.com.au

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## nev25

> Yes and No. You could run your TV from a lighting point if it is installed 2.3M above the floor and the TV is less than 150W. 
> .

  HUH
Think you have that completely wrong

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## simopimo

Thanks koshari and Random username, 
Basically you have my requirements right there koshari. So it's legal if I stick to 2.5mm TPS.  Problem is that this new wall backs onto a very old timber wall and there's no room to sink the recessed PowerPoint into... In fact there's barely enough room just for cable. However I'll draw a 2.5mm tps through and use that instead of flex. The TV end however is just figure 8 cable basically with no earth. So at least I'll only need to pull through the active and neutral.

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## Bros

> HUH
> Think you have that completely wrong

  Maybe but how would you read table C1 note (e)

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## nev25

> Maybe but how would you read table C1 note (e)

  As it reads 
For the purpose of calculating Maximum demand
 A socket outlet installed more than 2.3 Metres above the floor etc etc etc  
May be included as a  lighting point and be calculated in Lighting Group A(1)

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## Bros

> As it reads 
> For the purpose of calculating Maximum demand
>  A socket outlet installed more than 2.3 Metres above the floor etc etc etc  
> May be included as a  lighting point and be calculated in Lighting Group A(1)

  Well I read it as a lighting point!

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## nev25

> Well I read it as a lighting point!

  
Yes it is a lighting point when you are calculating MD

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## Bros

Have you any reference that I am wrong?

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## nev25

> Have you any reference that I am wrong?

   Re read your original post and then re read the whole post

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## Bros

> Re read your original post and then re read the whole post

  You are talking in riddles PM me if you have any clarification.

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## barney118

NO  :No: 
 lighting is generally run with 1.5mm2 wire, GPO use 2.5mm wire, obviously sometimes when one wires a house they could use 2.5mm2 wire it cost more. 
Also GPO need earth wire whereas lighting switch wire is usually only 2 core, active,neutral.

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## simopimo

The TV is a very small LED and its plug has no earth. So to be legal, am I supposed to wire up an earth to the socket going nowhere - ie. not have it hooked up to the TV? Seems wasteful... 
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## krico

> The TV is a very small LED and its plug has no earth. So to be legal, am I supposed to wire up an earth to the socket going nowhere - ie. not have it hooked up to the TV? Seems wasteful... 
> Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

  That appliance may have no earth but what if you use it for something else.  
And by the book, yes, you have to have an earth to a GPO.

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## Bros

> So to be legal, am I supposed to wire up an earth to the socket going nowhere

  I hate to tell you this but you might like to cast your eyes over this.http://www.renovateforum.com/f195/all-posters-108952/ and at the top of the forum.

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## barney118

> The TV is a very small LED and its plug has no earth. So to be legal, am I supposed to wire up an earth to the socket going nowhere - ie. not have it hooked up to the TV? Seems wasteful... 
> Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

  if the current from the GPO through your light switch draws too many amps for that 1.5mm cable and burns your house down, good luck explaining that to mr insurance company, thats if you are still around.....as you might have also relied on that circuit for the warning from the smoke alarms......thats why there is a std for wiring.

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## oldtrack123

> Before you tell me I need a sparky, relax, I'm doing a renovation and I've got a sparky coming in to terminate the roughed-in work shortly. So I won't be hooking anything up live, it'll all be checked by a sparky. The reason I want to get this moving initially is because he's got a whole heap of things to do at my place next time he drops by and I forgot to ask him to do this last time, so I'd like to get it all prepared and ready. 
> Anyway, disclaimer out of the way. Here's what I need done: 
> I have a double GPO (which another double GPO is feeding from as well, so there's 2.5mm TPS in and 2.5mm TPS out).
> There's a small TV on the wall near it, and we managed to feed a 3 core flex cable between the hole for the GPO and the hole for the TV. I cannot feed anything larger. The TV is only small -22 inch - and the flex cable is more than enough to run it. 
> I want to be able to run the TV power from this cable - via its own switch from the GPO - ie. using a double GPO with an extra switch built in. The reason I want to run it through the switch is so I can power it off at the point rather than having the TV live all the time. 
> Is this legal? So to summarise, is it legal to run an appliance from an extra switch in a GPO? It's a double GPO with 3 switches. Thanks in advance!!!

  
Hi 
These sort of questions seeking such detailed info , ALWAYS concern me, especially when the statement is made "I'm getting an Electrician in to connect up or sign off" 
Why on earth ask for such details on a forum??? :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 
ASK the ELECTRICIAN YOU HAVE LINED UP
He is the one who has to put his NAME to the compliance certificate 
PeterQ

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## koshari

i really dont know what the references to maximum demand here are suggesting or why. 
the guy who is signing it off will determine if any mains, submains or mainswitches will need to be upsized for the sake of maximum demand,  
and there are very few installations if any where counting a single lighting point as a single gpo will push a maximum demand calculation over the threshold.

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## Handyjack

> The TV is a very small LED and its plug has no earth. So to be legal, am I supposed to wire up an earth to the socket going nowhere - ie. not have it hooked up to the TV? Seems wasteful... 
> Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

  And what happens when the appliance is replaced with one that is not Double Insulated? 
The next person to occupy the premises may have a metal bodied kettle or other earthed appliance on your former TV shelf, may be even a computer to check Renovate Forum.

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## johnny46

Nothing grey about it, you cannot use flex as fixed wiring inside a wall cavity. AS3000 also requires ever power and lighting point to have an earth cable at it regardless if it is double insulated or not

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## BRADFORD

I know you didn't want this answer but I'll stick my neck out and say it, get an electrician.
From the posts here I see a fair bit of information and misinformation and it is clear to me you are not grasping exactly what is required for the job you are wanting to do.
No offence intended but you should play it safe and get your electrician to at least look at the job and advise before you go ahead and do anything.

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## simopimo

No worries everyone, I am not planning to connect this up myself. And when I am questioning things, it's because well, I have a right to and I want to know. I teach my kids to do the same, because it's healthy.  Please don't assume that because I'm questioning WHY something has to be done a certain way, it doesn't mean I am planning to ignore any advice given.  In my profession (IT Consulting for many different types of clients) I am questioned all the time as to the reasons why I recommend something, and I assume it's OK to ask electrical specialists the same thing.  Just because a client questions a recommendation and approach, doesn't mean they are going to ignore my advice and do it their own way, costing them thousands of dollars and potentially lives if they screw it up. And it's the same here in this scenario. 
Anyway back to the point.  The reason for my questions, not that I really have to justify it, but I will anyway, is that I am renovating the kitchen, rumpus and pergola. As part of this, the sparky has been onsite to do the initial roughing in and inserting light switches. But it's going to be a few more weeks until he comes back, depending on the builder's progress. I want to be able to get this TV cavity ready to go and do whatever I CAN to get it ready so that I am not paying a sparky to chase a cable up into a cavity. I am keeping it LEGAL, but if I had done nothing and waited until the next sparky visit, I would be wasting his time and my money. 
So, I am going to have to figure out how I will pull up a 2.5 TPS lead to replace the flex that's currently sitting there - more than likely by drilling a hole in the wall behind it so I can get it past the noggins as currently the gap appears to be too small.  Then have the sparky finish it off.  In the meantime I will make a channel up to near the back of the mount and sink in a slimline GPO for final termination by the sparky. Which is what you guys have suggested anyway.  See, I was listening!!! 
I repeat, at no time will I be touching live wires and all connections will be done by the sparky on his return, but like many others before me, I want to make his job as quick as possible as I have many other things for him to do. So I want to get it ready. 
Thanks everyone.     
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## nev25

> No worries everyone, I am not planning to connect this up myself. And when I am questioning things, it's because well, I have a right to and I want to know. I teach my kids to do the same, because it's healthy.  Please don't assume that because I'm questioning WHY something has to be done a certain way, it doesn't mean I am planning to ignore any advice given.  In my profession (IT Consulting for many different types of clients) I am questioned all the time as to the reasons why I recommend something, and I assume it's OK to ask electrical specialists the same thing.  Just because a client questions a recommendation and approach, doesn't mean they are going to ignore my advice and do it their own way, costing them thousands of dollars and potentially lives if they screw it up. And it's the same here in this scenario. 
> Anyway back to the point.  The reason for my questions, not that I really have to justify it, but I will anyway, is that I am renovating the kitchen, rumpus and pergola. As part of this, the sparky has been onsite to do the initial roughing in and inserting light switches. But it's going to be a few more weeks until he comes back, depending on the builder's progress. I want to be able to get this TV cavity ready to go and do whatever I CAN to get it ready so that I am not paying a sparky to chase a cable up into a cavity. I am keeping it LEGAL, but if I had done nothing and waited until the next sparky visit, I would be wasting his time and my money. 
> So, I am going to have to figure out how I will pull up a 2.5 TPS lead to replace the flex that's currently sitting there - more than likely by drilling a hole in the wall behind it so I can get it past the noggins as currently the gap appears to be too small.  Then have the sparky finish it off.  In the meantime I will make a channel up to near the back of the mount and sink in a slimline GPO for final termination by the sparky. Which is what you guys have suggested anyway.  See, I was listening!!! 
> I repeat, at no time will I be touching live wires and all connections will be done by the sparky on his return, but like many others before me, I want to make his job as quick as possible as I have many other things for him to do. So I want to get it ready. 
> Thanks everyone.     
> Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

   
Good Luck getting a sparky to do that  
.

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## simopimo

Why wouldn't he? One powerpoint, with legal 2.5mm TPS, connecting to another powerpoint.  That's what it boils down to. 
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## nev25

> Why wouldn't he? One powerpoint, with legal 2.5mm TPS, connecting to another powerpoint.  That's what it boils down to. 
> Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Oh sorry I thought you said you where running the cable yourself

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## phild01

I am not a sparky but listen to this guy as he is very correct.  I am setting up a TV on my wall as part of renovations and it will sit proud of the wall cavity and use the previously mentioned recessed power receptacle behind it.  I thought about separate switching for it also and I wondered if I could have a separate wall power switch elsewhere that provided power to the TV's GPO...not sure!   

> Nothing grey about it, you cannot use flex as fixed wiring inside a wall cavity. AS3000 also requires ever power and lighting point to have an earth cable at it regardless if it is double insulated or not

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## jetpatcher

If a seperate switch can be legally installed for an oven gpo what is the difference of having a remote switch for any other power outlet (but still run on power circuit not lighting)?

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## oldtrack123

> If a seperate switch can be legally installed for an oven gpo what is the difference of having a remote switch for any other power outlet (but still run on power circuit not lighting)?

  
HI 
There is nothing wrong with having the switch seperate from the actual outlet, PROVIDED it ALL complies with the Standards.
Any electrician should know the requirements & what is allowed :Smilie:  .  
PeterQ

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## koshari

> I am not a sparky but listen to this guy as he is very correct.

  I beg to differ,  
so does AS3000 clause 3.9.7.4 

```
Flexible cords used as installation wiring
Flexible cords used as installation wiring shall be of the heavy-duty
sheathed type and installed in the same manner as insulated sheathed
cables.
```

 he is correct about the earthing however.

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## phild01

Ok, but isn't our author talking about the flexible TV supply cord, not the round heavy duty orange sheathed insulated cable!   

> I beg to differ,  
> so does AS3000 clause 3.9.7.4 
> 
> ```
> Flexible cords used as installation wiring
> Flexible cords used as installation wiring shall be of the heavy-duty
> sheathed type and installed in the same manner as insulated sheathed
> cables.
> ```
> ...

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## simopimo

No, I was actually talking about regular triple-core flex cable, not the TV flex cable. I probably wasn't very clear though. 
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## phild01

I would be checking to ensure that that cable complies as heavy duty.  I'm a bit lost on what you are doing though.  Are you wanting to run a 3 pin plugged cable into and through the wall?  How do you intend to actually connect the tv to mains? Sorry if I have missed something you said. 
Just re-read your post and it seems you are wanting to run a flex from an independent wall switch back to the TV (3 switch double GPO).  A bit like a permanent switched fixture and a 3 core flex offers some flexibility to get behind the TV for cables.  Anticipating you will replace the existing TV flex with standard 3 core.  Interesting concept if I got it right!   

> No, I was actually talking about regular triple-core flex cable, not the TV flex cable. I probably wasn't very clear though. 
> Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## simopimo

Hi phild01, that was pretty much what I wanted to do. 
However it looks like the cable between the switch and the TV must be 2.5mm TPS and must terminate on a proper plug/socket basis - it appears that it's illegal to wire up normal flex to the back of the GPO and it's certainly illegal to have the flex connect to the tv flex as it's behind a wall. 
So basically I'll have to hook up 2.5mm TPS cable to the back of the GPO then run it to another GPO behind the TV, which is exactly what I didn't want to do, but rules are rules and that's the best option.

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## phild01

Yep, suspected as much.  I know where you are coming from.  Trying to hide lots of ugly wiring but you do need to be able to access the power switch, and that is hard when tucked behind the wall mounted TV.  I think in your case you want the TV to finish flush with the wall surface.  Is there opportunity on the other side of the wall to put a GPO in a cupboard perhaps, probably not.  What if you shadow line a rebate in the wall cavity adjacent to the TV to conceal a power point if you get my drift.  This would not be a wall cavity setup, being open to the room.  

> Hi phild01, that was pretty much what I wanted to do. 
> However it looks like the cable between the switch and the TV must be 2.5mm TPS and must terminate on a proper plug/socket basis - it appears that it's illegal to wire up normal flex to the back of the GPO and it's certainly illegal to have the flex connect to the tv flex as it's behind a wall. 
> So basically I'll have to hook up 2.5mm TPS cable to the back of the GPO then run it to another GPO behind the TV, which is exactly what I didn't want to do, but rules are rules and that's the best option.

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## simopimo

> Yep, suspected as much.  I know where you are coming from.  Trying to hide lots of ugly wiring but you do need to be able to access the power switch, and that is hard when tucked behind the wall mounted TV.  I think in your case you want the TV to finish flush with the wall surface.  Is there opportunity on the other side of the wall to put a GPO in a cupboard perhaps, probably not.  What if you shadow line a rebate in the wall cavity adjacent to the TV to conceal a power point if you get my drift.  This would not be a wall cavity setup, being open to the room.

  Spot on there Phild01, that's what I'm doing. Like you said, I can't put a cupboard behind it unfortunately as it's one of the kids bedrooms. I ended up drilling 4 x 60mm holes in the wall behind it and was able to run a 2.5 TPS cable through, but it was bloody hard work. Lots of patching to do now - running cables through 1890's era hardwood studs is rather difficult!!! 
Next is the rebate in the cavity for the slimline power point.  After that, will get the sparky back in to hook it all up. It'll be a really tight fit but there's very little choice in the solution unfortunately... 
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## phild01

Good to hear.  Bit hard to explain what I was trying to say but I might have left a rebate, say above the TV, but behind the wall lining.  So looking at the wall you would see nothing but wall.  In the rebate I would have installed a GPO outlet so the TV could plug into it without being seen and still accessible.  I would then have a wall switch installed elsewhere to switch that GPO, and thereby being able to switch the TV on or off.   

> Spot on there Phild01, that's what I'm doing. Like you said, I can't put a cupboard behind it unfortunately as it's one of the kids bedrooms. I ended up drilling 4 x 60mm holes in the wall behind it and was able to run a 2.5 TPS cable through, but it was bloody hard work. Lots of patching to do now - running cables through 1890's era hardwood studs is rather difficult!!! 
> Next is the rebate in the cavity for the slimline power point.  After that, will get the sparky back in to hook it all up. It'll be a really tight fit but there's very little choice in the solution unfortunately... 
> Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## oldtrack123

> I know you didn't want this answer but I'll stick my neck out and say it, get an electrician.
> From the posts here I see a fair bit of information and misinformation and it is clear to me you are not grasping exactly what is required for the job you are wanting to do.
> No offence intended but you should play it safe and get your electrician to at least look at the job and advise before you go ahead and do anything.

  
Hi Bradford
Good to see someone else giving sensible advice 
Keep up the good work!! :Biggrin:  
If anyone wises to reduce costs of electrical work IN AUS
They should first contact /find an electrician who will be happy to work in with them 
He should/will then advice them of HOW IT IS TO BE DONE,& the details required to ensure it complies with the applicable AUS Standards
This is necessary so HE can, do the connecting work & after testing sign OFF & issue a compliance certificate with a reasonable expectation that nothing will come back to bite HIM 
The definition of "electrical work] varies from state to state
Some states class "electrical work" ,put simply ,as any work that requires a tool to connect or disconnect cables /wires involving AC voltages above 50V
That includes replacing plug tops ,sockets outlets switched etc,some states exempt such work as 'REPLACING LIKE FOR LIKE"  
The best place to find out what YOU can legally do is YOUR state's electrical safety office!! 
Be aware that in the event of an accident, You may be liable for any unlicensed electrical work which may have caused the incident 
If the work resulted in serious injury or death be prepared for a loooong , costly court case !! 
YOU insurance could also be void 
Is it worth the risk to not get an electrician involved right at the start & to work closely with him??? 
PeterQ

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## oldtrack123

> I hate to tell you this but you might like to cast your eyes over this.http://www.renovateforum.com/f195/all-posters-108952/ and at the top of the forum.

  
Hi Bros 
Ditto 
Too bad so many do not seem to read it or understand what it means :Smilie:   
PeterQ

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## simopimo

I say this with the utmost of respect, but please get over it! 
As I have explained several times, I am NOT touching any live power, and due to scheduling constraints, I needed to get things in place for the sparky. I am NOT doing any wiring. I repeat, I am NOT doing any wiring. Yes, I DO have a brain!!! Electrical work is not some arcane art that only those with an apprenticeship have a right to know. 
That's the problem with this electrical sub-forum. Any time you ask about something, people assume that you're just trying to screw over the industry and/or attempting to kill yourself via electrocution.  Oh, and by the way, I've already justified my question so perhaps you should re-read my response to the previous warnings. 
Thanks to all those who have been helpful, I really appreciate the advice and comments. The ideas and suggestions that some of you have provided have been most helpful. 
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## simopimo

> Good to hear.  Bit hard to explain what I was trying to say but I might have left a rebate, say above the TV, but behind the wall lining.  So looking at the wall you would see nothing but wall.  In the rebate I would have installed a GPO outlet so the TV could plug into it without being seen and still accessible.  I would then have a wall switch installed elsewhere to switch that GPO, and thereby being able to switch the TV on or off.

  Ah, that's a great idea phild01. That would improve accessibility too, and still provide remote switching. I'll see what the sparky recommends.  Thanks! 
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

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## oldtrack123

> I say this with the utmost of respect, but please get over it! 
> As I have explained several times, I am NOT touching any live power, and due to scheduling constraints, I needed to get things in place for the sparky. I am NOT doing any wiring. I repeat, I am NOT doing any wiring. Yes, I DO have a brain!!! Electrical work is not some arcane art that only those with an apprenticeship have a right to know. 
> That's the problem with this electrical sub-forum. Any time you ask about something, people assume that you're just trying to screw over the industry and/or attempting to kill yourself via electrocution. Oh, and by the way, I've already justified my question so perhaps you should re-read my response to the previous warnings. 
> Thanks to all those who have been helpful, I really appreciate the advice and comments. The ideas and suggestions that some of you have provided have been most helpful. 
> Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk HD

  
Hi 
Sorry 
My post was not aimed at you personally
I accept that YOU do have an electrician involved 
My post was more for those who may follow the advice of some posters who post links to a non Australian material that may encourage people to believe they know the meaning & the intent of those Standards
AND DO their OWN work with no prior contact with their electrician . 
Often with NO intention of having it tested & a compliance Cert issued 
That is extremely foolish of those people ,who put themselves @risk of serious trouble in the event of an incident 
Many /most electricians are unlikely to issue the above IF they have not been involved from the START.  
IF they are involved from the START, they will give ALL the applicable details of how the work SHALL be done to their & AUS standards
It is as simple as that!! 
PeterQ

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