# Forum Home Renovation Kitchens  Tile gap distance between bench top and first row of tiles?

## sean@nthnsw

Hello again peoples<O :Tongue: </O :Tongue: <O :Tongue: </O :Tongue:  I am just about to do a tiled kitchen splash back using Villa Board for the backing sheet to fix the tiles to. After having a look at the James Hardy instillation manual for affixing Villa Board sheeting to a wall it recommends to leave a 6mm gap between the sheet and the bottom section of where you are placing the sheet. This is the directions for when fixing directly to a pine stud framed wall.  My situation is a little different in that I will be affixing the sheets to an old solid VJ paneled wall.  So my questions are as follows…
<O :Tongue: </O :Tongue:  1: When affixing the Villa Board to the old VJ wall boards do I still need to leave a 6mm gap between the bottom of the Villa Board and the bench top or can I sit the Villa Board directly on top of the new Laminex post form bench tops?  2: Do I also need to leave a 6mm gap between the bottom of the tiles and the bench top?  
<O :Tongue: </O :Tongue:  3: What should I use to seal the gap between the tiles and the bench top? Is tile grout OK or should I use a flexible silicone sealant? Can I just use high quality gap filler instead as it much easier to work with then sticky silicone? 
<O :Tongue: </O :Tongue:  Thank you for your time and I look forward to any informative replies.
<O :Tongue: </O :Tongue: Sean

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## rod1949

Firstly I'd install the Villa board with the back of the sheet facing out as it has a rougher surface thus better bonding for tiling. 
The gap for villa board is 6 of one half a dozen of the other in my view, I wouldn't be worrying if I had a gap or not. 
Re the gap for the tiles, I would be consistant with all gaps.  Having said that with my tiling I used the corner/cross spacers (but not placing them in the corners cause they are a pain to remove later, so just poked then in the sides, tops and bottoms of the tiles), but for the first row on the bench tops I laided the spacers on their flat. 
I have used grout and then applied a sealer in all gaps.

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## Vernonv

If the wall was existing (and has been there a while), I wouldn't be too worried about the size of the gap, but I would still have one.
For the tiles I would use at least the same gap as you used between the tiles and fill it with silicon - don't use grout, it will crack eventually. 
Rod's suggestion about the sealer on the grout is a good one ... it'll make it a lot easier to keep the grout clean.

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## Vernonv

> Firstly I'd install the Villa board with the back of the sheet facing out as it has a rougher surface thus better bonding for tiling.

  I've never heard of doing that before ... do you have a reference, Rod?

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## rod1949

> I've never heard of doing that before ... do you have a reference, Rod?

  Haven't ya!  Well there ya go you're never to young to learn :Biggrin:  :2thumbsup:

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## Vernonv

> Haven't ya! Well there ya go you're never to young to learn

  Certainly :Wink 1: . 
Strange that none of the manufacturers mention putting the rough side out.

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## journeyman Mick

The villaboard should be behind the benchtop and there should be a row of noggings somewhere close to the bottom edge of the sheet (or the bottom plate). 
Leave a 3mm gap between the tiles and the benchtop. Never fill an internal corner or a grout gap that abuts a different surface with grout (ie tiles against timber or laminate) Always fill these joints with a silicone or polyurethane sealant. 
I wouldn't put the sheets on backwards unless I had it in writing from someone, somewhere who would back me up for it and/or pay to rectify any ensuing problems. Call me pedantic, but I won't do something unless it's backed by the manufacturer. 
Mick

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## Honorary Bloke

> Haven't ya!  Well there ya go you're never to young to learn

  In other words, you do not have a reference.  :Confused:

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## seriph1

FWIW I've used the rough side many times and it made zero difference .... but then I have never seen tiles come off walls when theyre laid correctly  :Biggrin:

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## Metung

I found that it is a lot easier to use 2 tile spacers at each  corner of the tile. It gives a lot more support and  less margin for error. The second specer comes out very easily and the forst is just grouted over. Worked for me anyway  :2thumbsup: .

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## autogenous

Rod you dont need a rough surface to lay tiles with a chemical adhesive. You want a flat surface to lay flat tiles. 
In fact Villa board you could use Abamastic premix which you can hang tiles on. 
Use wedges not crosses.  
Contrary to peoples assumptions tiles, bricks and a range of other masonry products are not all the same size. 
Its why tilers don't use the plastic crosses. 
If it were the case then we wouldn't have mortar joints to accommodate the differences in sizes. Most people think mortar joints are there for aesthetics. 
Tradesmen spend their entire day accommodating the variations in sizes. It takes some skill to acquire the ability at speed and earn a living. 
Think about it, 10 units, 2mm difference on average is 20mm on the piss. 
If it were true that product were all the same size wed all have Lego houses.

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## sean@nthnsw

Thanks for all the information in regards to my query. As always it never ceases to amaze me just how much of a wealth of knowledge there is on this forum and how willing people are to share their knowledge and experiences. A big THANK YOU again to all who replied to my post!  :2thumbsup: <O :Tongue: </O :Tongue:

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## Vernonv

> Think about it, 10 units, 2mm difference on average is 20mm on the piss.

   I think you'll find that the average difference between two 10 unit courses will be closer to 0.  :Biggrin:

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## Bloss

> I think you'll find that the average difference between two 10 unit courses will be closer to 0.

   :What he said:  Stats 101 - If 50% of all people are above average intelligence how come 80% of those I come across seem to be from the 50% below . . .?  :Biggrin:  Oops, what does that say about those I hang out with . . . or me?  :Biggrin:

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