# Forum Home Renovation The Garden Shed  Best material to line a steel C section garage?

## dastrix

Hi Guys, ive got a double garage which is just colorbond clad with a galvinised steel C section frame, its quite light material but appears to have plenty of strength. 
I want to clad the internal walls, I was thinking gyprock, just screwing into the C section steel. Is there anything else that would be good to use? Gyprock seems the cheapest. 
There currently is silver foil under the roof sheets but nothing on the walls, do I first need to put a blue/silver sided foil before I put insulation behind the gyprock? 
It gets incredibly hot in the garage, so anything to reduce the heat would be good.  
See photo

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## pinger

> Hi Guys, ive got a double garage which is just colorbond clad with a galvinised steel C section frame, its quite light material but appears to have plenty of strength. 
> I want to clad the internal walls, I was thinking gyprock, just screwing into the C section steel. Is there anything else that would be good to use? Gyprock seems the cheapest. 
> There currently is silver foil under the roof sheets but nothing on the walls, do I first need to put a blue/silver sided foil before I put insulation behind the gyprock? 
> It gets incredibly hot in the garage, so anything to reduce the heat would be good.  
> See photo

  You would probably need to add ceiling battens vertically (from slab to eave) at appropriate centres (most commonly 600 centres) for the gyprock to last long. The horizontal purlins of the shed are obviously setup for steel, not gyprock.  
As a shed builder we have access to excess and cover steel sheets which we tend to flip over (all are the same shadow grey on the back) and use them. No need to play with additional battens as already set up fro steel sheet. But not everyone is going to have access to cheap cover sheets like we do.  
Sisalation would have been useful on the outside between the wall sheets and your purlins externally to try to keep any moisture out from the cavity wall, so putting it in now to the back of the wall girts serves no real purpose. I would simply add batts to the cavity for insulation effect. Try to keep the batts away from the ground obviously or they can wick up moisture.

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## pinger

Actually now I am looking at the picture on my computer and not my phone- it looks like that shed may have been constructed from metal stud frames for the walls. If the studs are at 600 centres you should be pretty right to gyprock straight to it, or increase the thickness of gyprock to suit the spacing.

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## shauck

For a shed, I wouldn't use plasterboard as it will likely get rough treatment. I'd use ply or flooring sheets or MDF

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## dastrix

Thanks guys. 
Whats 'flooring sheets' ?  
How thick ply or mdf?

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## OBBob

I think Shauk is referring to yellow tongue, which you'll find at Bunnings. They are around 19mm thick. The advantage of using something like that is that you can screw shelves etc. to it without needing to find a stud.

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## shauck

Probably cheapest option is the yellow tongue flooring sheets if you are going for thickness and the ability to screw to it without finding studs, as OBBob says. When I worked at a joinery, we got deliveries of materials with packing sheets which were thick MDF. You may find a local joinery that has a pallet load of these packing sheets in various thicknesses and they may sell them to you cheaper than other options. Worth a shot anyway.

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## dastrix

> Probably cheapest option is the yellow tongue flooring sheets if you are going for thickness and the ability to screw to it without finding studs, as OBBob says. When I worked at a joinery, we got deliveries of materials with packing sheets which were thick MDF. You may find a local joinery that has a pallet load of these packing sheets in various thicknesses and they may sell them to you cheaper than other options. Worth a shot anyway.

  Thanks guys, got the wax coated yellow tongue and have started the job with that!

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## shauck

:2thumbsup:  coolio

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