# Forum Home Renovation Paving  paving - getting the drainage angle right

## tomato_brine

Hi all,  
I'll be taking delivery of roadbase and Nepaen river sand this week and on Saturday I have someone coming over with a Whacker Packer to pack down in prep for the pavers. I understand that I need a slight pitch away from the house for drainage and I'm intending on approx 20mm across a 1m span.  
Do I need to be considering this slight angle at any time prior to the arrival of the Whacker Packer and the screeding stages?  
As I'm paying this guy by the hour (works out about the same as hiring a WP for teh day and much less hassle) I want to get as much done as I can and only pay for the stuff I can't do myself.  
Would it make sense for me to go ahead and lay out all the roadbase followed by sand and then use the Whacker to sort out the angle/pitch?  
Am I better off just laying out the roadbase, allowing that to be packed on Saturday and then getting on with the sand on Saturaday which will then be packed again?  
Do I need to be laying the roadbase out in such a way as to be working towards the required angle even before the WP arrives on the scene?  
Best regards

----------


## cherub65

Grade your subbase to the correct fall, are you collecting the run off?. Dont fall to your neighbors property.
Then if you need to set up pins at required levels , screed to these.
You will need compactor for three separate phases, compact road base, compacted river sand then to settle pavers, hiring would work out cheaper.

----------


## tomato_brine

Thanks Cherub,  
So you're saying I have to grade the sub-base to the fall (essentially the existing soil), then again the roadbase, and then the sand. That all makes sense but how? What is the most efficient process? 
My path is about 16m long by 1m wide and the run off will go into a flower bed (supporting wall on each side so no worries for the neighbours). I'm at work so can't attach a photo.  
My main concern is that the roadbase will arrive on Friday pm and because I'm on a small lot some or even all of it will be in the street. I'll have to very quickly transport it and if I can avoid moving it twice (i.e. just go from street to path) that would be good.

----------


## cherub65

if the fall is along the 16m length, the fall will be 320mm (2% fall). If you cant get hold of a dumpy or laser level, then grab a water level.
Work from your highest point. mark your finished level (paver height), Go to your lowest point mark down 320mm from your highest point use a peg if there's no wall. set a a string line between the two marks ( flick chalk lines down both walls if possible) and excavate to the needed level, use line for a guide when screeding

----------


## tomato_brine

Thanks heaps Cherub,  
The fall is across the 1m of the path. The path is parrallel to the house. So I guess that makes it 20mm (being 2%).  
I appreciate your help

----------


## cherub65

That makes it a lot easer for you. Cut a piece of timber 1000mm wide with a 20mm fall on it. (use this as your screed) Then using your spirit level keep it level. this wil give you 20mm fall across the path.

----------


## Bleedin Thumb

> That makes it a lot easer for you. Cut a piece of timber 1000mm wide with a 20mm fall on it. (use this as your screed) Then using your spirit level keep it level. this wil give you 20mm fall across the path.

   
 Until you turn your board around by mistake. :Biggrin:  
I would suggest using a straight edge and screeding till the bubble on your spirit level just touches the line.  
BTW for a 1:200 fall over 1m you only need a 5mm cross fall.....I would exaggerate it to 10mm ( 1:100) but I think 20mm is a bit much.

----------


## fdip

I have started my 4m (L) x 4.8m (W) paved area. Cleared grass and dirt to a height enough for 75mm roadbase, 50mm sand & 50mm paver. I have laid a concrete footing to support 2 courses of bricks due to land fall away from the area and to support the step down onto lawn. 
I have read numerous posts about drainage and some state the recommended fall is 1:100 to 2:100. 
Am I asking for trouble if I work on a 40mm fall over the 4m L? I just think 80mm will seem too obvious over a 4m length. 
Like to hear your thoughts.

----------


## Bleedin Thumb

A 1:200 is considered your minimum fall required on a smooth surface however any local undulations will result in minor ponding so its safer to go 1:100.

----------

