# Forum Home Renovation Kitchens  What to use to between Villaboard joins

## Gooner

I have finally put up the villaboard walls in my ensuite. (Alleluia). Just wondering what the best stuff is to use between the wall/wall wall/floor joins. 
I was looking at using something like Sikaflex F11, but at around $19 a tube (Bunnies) I was wondering if this is really required. Is it overkill?  
..and yes, I have searched the forums, but couldn't find the question answered. Easier to ask. 
Thanks.

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## Animalector

hey, I got my info from the James Hardie wet area construction guide, and the James hardie villaboard installation guide  internal corners that are to be tiled over should be sealed with polyurethane type sealant cost me $15 was not the chepaest nor the most expensive..  The tube I bought did 4 floor to roof joins with gaps around 6 or 7mm wide and 6mm deep 
flat wall joins can be finished with base coat plaster and paper joiner tape.  there's a good guide on www.how2plaster.com , from what I have read everyone says to use paper not fibre/mesh tape. no need for top coat if tiling over. 
As a side note, make sure you don't need to get behind the wall for anything it's a royal PITA after you've set the joints. 
more knowledgable people will probably add more info 
Andy

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## Vernonv

Gooner,
I would use whatever your waterproof membrane manufacturer says you should use. You don't want to seal it all up, whack on the waterproof membrane and find that the two products are not compatible ... and have to redo it ... or worse - find your membrane has failed after the job has been completed.

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## GraemeCook

Gooner 
I paid the same price for Sikaflex about ten years ago and used it in the kitchen on the splashback tiles - tiles to formica sinktop join and to put a bevelled edge on the tiles to solid plaster wall join. 
Unlike other fillers which dry hard, the Sikaflex dries to a soft rubbery consistency and stays that way - lots of flex.   There must have been some movement in the sink bench top over the last ten years but the Sikaflex is still stuck to both surfaces.  It still feels rubbery. 
Money well spent. 
There is a technique to using it as it skins over quite quickly, so you have to work fast and pre-plan.   Suggest you cut a slightly larger hole than usual in the nozzle, apply more than adequate Sikaflex along joint, then quickly smooth with wet finger or wet putty knife, then leave alone.  Its probably started skinning by now and any further touch up will remain permanently visible.  Similarly, if you apply too little Sikaflex and have to go back and apply more then you will probably have skinning problems - speed is the essense. 
When I finished my kitchen I had three quarters of a tube left over - wish I had used some of this to practice before I went near the tiles.  Nevertheless I am still happy with my tiles. 
Cheers 
Graeme

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## SilentButDeadly

Gooner.......if you don't want to spend Sikaflex money then I can recommend Bostik Seal n Flex as a product suitable for this job.  It can be a bit on the thick side so getting it out of the typical cartridge is an effort comapred to normal gear.....but it doesn't half stick!

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## john0

Ive heard not to use acetic cure silicones, as over time it breaks down the waterproofing membrane. So only neutral cure. Like other people have said, the waterproofing instructions should specify.

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## Gooner

Thanks guys for all your responses. 
I think selecting the waterproofing membrane before continuing is sound advice. 
That leads to the next question... Whats a good sealant, waterproofing and tile adhesive combination to use?  
Thanks again.

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## Vernonv

I've gone for all Ardex products - WPM 001 (waterproof membrane) and AbaFlex and MPP glue. The datasheet for the WPM 001 specifies using neutral cure silicone at the joins (as well as a reinforcing poly cloth).

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## Vernonv

Oh yeah, I just thought I would mention that the silicone is there as a bond breaker and not as a waterproofing sealant. If your waterproofing membrane has failed then you have bigger problems to worry about, than not having used the "best" silicone sealant for your bond breaker.

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## Vernonv

EDIT : your question is gone, but I'll leave the link for anyone else that want's/needs it ...  
It's called WPM 001 (http://www.ardexaustralia.com/produc...id=55&catid=10) and it was recommended to me by my tile supplier (who's recommendations I have always followed and they have never failed me).

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## Gooner

Thanks for the recommendation Vernonv. (I did just delete a post asking exactly what ARDEX product you used, but then re-read your first post where you explicitly stated it). 
I have had a read of the spec sheet. Looked up prices too. Around $210 for 15 litres so I assume about $260 for $20 litres (about how much I need) + primer. (Waterproofers do get expensive.) 
Thanks again.

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## bcaso

I Used Bostick Ultraseal ontop of Sikaflex. I also shaved 20mm of the joists in the shower and then laid yellotoung all over, then nailed tile overlay (sika) between joins, and probably made the mistake of puting Gal angle behind and infront of wall floor joins with sikaflex between the two, WPM with Bostick Ultraseal 2 coats all over. 
I wouldn't mid a few comments as I read everything on this forum and james hardie and anything I could find on google. 
I used wetarea basecoat with papertape for the Vill joins, the Bostick again over the top. 
I reckon I will have dramas at the stepdown. What do you think? 
Fingers crossed

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