# Forum Home Renovation Kitchens  Bunnings Flatpak Kitchens!

## Struggling!

Hi There,  
I'm new to the forum... and even newer to renovating! I've bought a property that needs work - and even though I'm excited to do it... its a little overwhelming. I've been looking at kitchen ideas and I can't go past the bunnings designs.
I was just wondering if anyone could share some stories or much needed advice! 
Thanks... Struggling!!

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## stevoh741

I wouldnt touch one from there, but thats just my opinion

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## Bruiser

Bunnings or Ikea - I did Ikea and it was really easy.  You're basically assembling 'carcasses', and there's not a lot to it.  Hmm, from memory:
- a 90 deg bench is best done with a 'hockey stick' cut - a 45 deg cut on the inside, then straight.  This is for 'nosed' benchtops.
- you need a means to fix the benchtop to the wall.  Nothing serious, but it'll depend on whether you're into bricks or clad building.
- soft close is about 4 bucks a door - get it!
- start with good measurements of the kitchen, don't move any plumbing if you can help it, and you'll find it's quite easy.  The design is the hard bit, especially if you do it right.  Building is easy, unless your design is wrong. 
I don't see how a custom cabinet maker could vary that much from Bunnings or Ikea, except making something non standard.  If you have a dishwasher and an oven, you'll be able to design in some 'slack' and simply trim your benchtops as the custom bit.

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## Godzilla73

G'day, 
Go to a Cabinet Maker and get a price ex-factory to compare prices. You can still install yourself but much more will be done for you, like, cabinets knocked up and doors/drawers installed, benchtop joins done. That last bit is a big hassle to get done by you, a postformer will charge 3-4 times what a cabinet maker can get it for to cover the cost of making a mistake. Unless you have access to some pro tools and patience you'll struggle to get a good result DIY. 
The other thing is you need to put a value on your time, if it takes you 40 hours to put it all together than another 16 to install, all that at $40 is $2200 of your time gone, so add that to your Bunnings price. Not many people can go without a kitchen for over a week. 
Also don't discount the value of 1 or 2 custom cabinets in your job, having a 140mm fill panel because you couldn't fit the next size cabinet in will always look odd, you won't pay any extra for this sort of thing from a cabinet maker.

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## woodchip

:What he said:  :What she said:  
I'd measure the space myself & take that to a kitchen manufacturer for a quote, you will get some custom cabinets & good ideas and suggestions from them, if you shop around I dont think the price would be too shocking. If you are happy with one quote get them out to check measure before proceeding. 
I have installed the bunnies cabinets as laundry cabinets, which I think they are perfect for....nothing fancy, but functional.

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## Pitto

:What he said:  :What she said:    what they said. 
The Flatpax are pretty ordinary in quality, they are vinyl wrap, chinese imports. I would PM ARMS and see what he can do for you if your determined to do a flatpack kitchen. 
The Board used by local cabinetmakers is to Australian Standard, unlike the cheap chinese imported weetbix board. 
G 
I

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## Struggling!

Wow... thanks so much for the advice and guidance!! Ill get stuck into some of the recommendations and let you know as I go!! 
I've been comparing stratco, bunnings and ikea and my biggest concern was long lasting use.  
Thanks so much!

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## Eden

Mile end bunnings has the  most kitchen displays set up  
and if you check out woodville  they have a folder at the kitchens counter  that they keep with before and afters of the kitchens i install for them so people can see some different layouts, colours and  benchtops  etc 
good luck 
eden

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## Rip it up

After just finishing a kitchen laundry Reno in an 1980's house I would never buy a flat pack kitchen.  
I chose a local cabinetmaker to fabricate mine file the following reasons.  
My house does not have a square room in it. 20-25mm off in diagonals in a good room.  
The basic price was very close. Less than 2000. Including their install and removal cost. I added in a few niceties like an appliance roller cupboard, soft close doors and drawers. Ceiling splashback over 900 gas free stander. bin cupboards etc.    
The flexibility to make a set of pot drawers 65mm wider if needed to span an odd gap.  
The finish is within half mm. Everywhere. Could not fault a join anywhere in my wonky house.  
I watched two trade cabinet makers spend 2 full days putting only the base cabinets in. Spending hours scribing, planning and reinstalling the few units. All this to get it perfect.  
I was home for the whole event organising cabinetmakers, sparkies and plumbers to share 2 rooms of the house with power outages and water pipes everywhere.  
So for me the experience was very rewarding. So my custom kitchen cost 12k installed by cabinetmakers versus 9k from bunnings. Is it worth the extra 3k?  
Hell yes.  
My time is valuable. Earning 3k a week myself I think it would have taken me at least a week in work hours to get a bunnings kitchen installed to a DIY standard not a PRO finish.  
I am still waiting for my splashback to be installed (laminex sent wrong colour) Cabinets finished Monday just gone. When it's complete I will post before and after and see for yourself what a difference it can make.  
My 2c 
Damo.

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## stevoh741

Green shed is cheap for a reason....

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## VladS

I would definitely, definitely stay away from these large volume, mostly imported flat pack cabinets. Honestly, you just get so much more from your local manufacturer and will not necessarily pay any more money, particularly if you want a flat pack. The quality of the Board, Edging, Hinges, Runners, etc... you can do a lot better with an Australian made product. And not to mention (well someone already has  :Rofl5:  the ugly wide infills you will most likely have to put up with due to rigid modular sizes instead of having your cabinets custom made for you.  
I'm one of the owners of Kitchenart and while we'd love to help you out, I see that you're based in Adelaide and for the time being we only service our NSW customers. BUT, please, please do yourself a favour and at least explore the possibility of having your kitchen (flat pack or not) custom made for you by a local manufacturer. I think you will be pleasantly surprised when all the costs are tallied up and the quality from a good local manufacturer is simply at a different level to the likes of those giants

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## Craigoss

I don't have any experience with flatpacks, i got my kitchen build and installed by a cabinet maker, cost 12k for the cabinets installed including soft close and quality drawer hardware, glass doors, lighting etc. For that sort of price, you wouldn't bother wasting a week with a flat pack installing it, save money elsewhere. There is a fair amount of custom work involved in the install as well. Cabinets had to be pulled apart and ripped down, due to the walls not being square etc. Here is a picture of it  Attachment 88462

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## Godzilla73

Oh oh, it's the 'ol invalid attachment again. Watson will be mad... :Annoyed:

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## Bedford

Here 'tis, I hope!

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## Master Splinter

You'd be lucky to get a kitchen like that supplied and installed here for less than about $25k - the local suppliers seem to think it's open season on wallets.

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## r3nov8or

> Here 'tis, I hope!

  Looks like sundance has already completed his kitchen  :Smilie:

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## Godzilla73

Have to agree with MS, on the price being a bit more than 12k. Though not the open season, well not down here. Quite a few bigger retail chains are trying their hand at "kitchens" here at the moment. Haven't got to the bottom of it yet, as in who is doing the manufacturing and we are still winning jobs despite a claimed 30% off deal.

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## Craigoss

My advice would be to steer clear of the big kitchen places with the flashy stores, brochures and salesmen. Go to a local cabinet maker which build their own kitchens from scratch and ideally install them as well. The price for the kitchen there as you see it would be closer to 24k, but from this thread we are only talking about cabinets, which was 12k. Price breakdown is: 
Cabinets + soft close + glass door inserts + lighting installed = 12k
30mm stone benchtop = 4.5k
Appliances (oven, rangehood, dishwasher, sink + tap) = 6k
Plumbing = $500
Electrical = $400
Tiling = $600

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## r3nov8or

Mitre 10 is also doing flatpack kitchens and our local has 5 or 6 on display. Their range includes standard 'budget' melamine and vinyl wrap doors, but you can also go for 2-pack polyurethane. They don't stock the components like Bunnings do - you go online (Mitre 10 website obviously), design your kitchen, get an estimate and then print it and confirm pricing at a local Mitre 10. I reckon their vinyl wrap product is about 10% dearer than Bunnings 'apples for apples'. Not sure they are 10% better, but their 2-pack options could be worth a look. Then again you might just as well go for a cabinet maker...

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## Eden

this is the one at Bowden i finished  last week 
this cost 260 + gst plumbing
 and       450 plus gst for the Elec
glass splassback + stainless 200ish from bunnings (highgrove)
tiles  45 bucks
the kitchen cost 4500 @ cunnings 
I charged 2200 to install including the tiling 
I think all up it was under $10,000 including all the whitegoods (bunnings) 
the stove  wasnt connected in the photo (hence the crooked under panel on the stove ) and the plumbing wasnt done yet (no mixer showing) 
I left a photo print with her  as the rangehood top sleeve is way smaller than the base one  and they are sending  a replacement  
anyhow    "if installed well"    I have no issues with price and none with the quality of any ive installed so far !  
So far ive had no issues getting replacement doors ,hinges and the likes for existing clients if there is ever an accident either 
Its just my opinion but I think they are great for what they are ! 
cheers eden

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## stevoh741

maybe you could repost a photo from the same spot in 3 yrs. Then we will see how good/crap they are. Personally, I'm leaning toward the latter....cheap Chinese..........

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## andy the pm

> Green shed is cheap for a reason....

   It ain't as cheap as they like to make out...

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## r3nov8or

I really don't see how it would look any different from another three year old vinyl-wrap kitchen with the knocks family life brings. Just because the 'wrapping' happens in-country doesn't guarrantee it'll be better. My kitchen is an example.

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## mila_mk5

The Bunnings kitchen's are not as bad as people make them out to be. It really just depends on what you are after. I wanted kitchen that was modern but I didn't want to fork out my life savings for a kitchen I would only be using for maybe 5,6 years max! I got quotes on a custom built kitchen, Bunnings, Ikea, Miter 10 and the new Masters. My kitchen is about 4x3.5m so at the total price including all elec/gas/plumbing work, I was looking at around 20k for a custom built - which I realised was overkill. Bunnings, Ikea, Mitre 10 and Masters (which, really, are all the same, and yes, from China - but what isn't these days?) priced in that order with bunnings coming it at 13k (this is including EVERYTHING! and I mean the installation of the cabinets all elec/plumbing/gas, benchtop, tiled splashback, rangehood ducting, new cornices and all new appliances from Westinghouse (except the bunnings rangehood) and as a comparison - Masters quoted 16K, not including any appliances or benchtop. Anyway, I think, if you can afford it and will be using it enough to get its worth back then go for that custom built, but if your on a budget and don't need all the fancy extras - then a bunnings flat pack wont kill you.  
p.s. when we pulled out our old kitchen, the installers told us it was a flat pack as well, and it was still standing (and operating) even after 20 years - despite it's colour combination.  
This is mine. All thats left is to paint the new cornices and do the flooring.   
If you want to see before and after shots of mine, check it out here: .must have wear: .the kitchen evolution 
Good Luck!

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## stevoh741

I had a cabinet maker build mine (I installed) for 20% cheaper than the chinese green shed. Quality leaps and bounds ahead of Bunn....

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## r3nov8or

> I had a cabinet maker build mine (I installed) for 20% cheaper than the chinese green shed. Quality leaps and bounds ahead of Bunn....

  Fact is there will never be an apples for apples long term comparison posted here. 
The only thing I don't like about my bespoke kitchen is the vinyl wrap doors, chosen due to budget and 'it won't happen to me' syndrome, and they were made in here.

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## Bozwell634

I too was going to go through Bunnings for my kitchen. In the end I decided to get a quote from some of my local Kitchen designers and found some suprising results, I went to one and all they did was order the bunnings like kitchens and supply them to their clients.  
In the end of went to one cabinet maker and they indicated that they would match the bunnings price with their own custom made cupboards and I could have them either supply or supply and install... I went supply to save some money. 
Just my opinion try other companies they may match the price if they are truely interested in your business that is.

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## Eden

If you want  "DIY" and can do it   - measure, buy  and  take out old one -get new one and put it in , re plumb  , elec  also , connect and your off !!!
if your not sure  and  want cheap - measure or get someone to do it , go to cunnings  or a small or large  manufacturer and get it  then do the same !!!
or if you dont want to touch it   - get it  
or 10 other ways with 10 other  needs and wants  with different abilities  
My kitchen was bought in 2004 and was $14,200.95 b4 whitegoods installed ! 
to do the same design (not finish) is $6.776.50 in flatpax or what they now are calling Kaboodle 
same finnish ..... add $1,250  =  $8026.50 
thats over 6 smackers in my pocket less install if im not confident ,,,,being $2,300 if done from boxed flatpack. and includes the lot down to sealing  all the gaps and filling all holes etc....  
thats $3,700 in my pocket even after its installed really well.  
"""""""""""""""""""I think workmanship and attention to detail play a lot more of an importance than anyone mentions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"""""""  """""""""" 
if you keep them level (laser) and  assemble them square and tight  and secure them well and think before  leaping  you can do fine with the green shed or the likes of ( i dont include ikea or an flimsy backed product ) for a fair result 
ive also seen some of the best quality kitchens transported,carried/dragged off the truck and then installed by idiots or lackees that couldnt give a flying toss. 
but 
I can walk into Woodville Bunnings with an incorrectly ordered or supplied peice and have it sorted in 10 mins and be back at work less travel time with a smile on my face. 
Maybee im very lucky ( but I have some great people from all walks of life at my local woodville bunnings and I have learnt a lot from them and find them great and no I dont have anything to do with them apart from buying kitchens and supplies for all my other work also)  
AND  ...... why does every one winge about end panels  
im told (im a bloke !) they look fantastic on a majority basis   (W.T._)  
like i said  ,,,,,,its all opinion  
eden

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## Black Cat

I just wanted a kitchen (and some laundry cupboards as well). I bought two of those seriously elcheapo straightline kitchens from Bunnings and am happy with the fact I have cupboards to put things in and a bench to work on. After 14 months in a caravan this was a good thing. I will refine it as I go along and any cabinets that get replaced will find a use elsewhere. The hinges and fittings are not all they could be, but they work. Given most people leave their homes after five years, and the new people pretty well always replace the kitchen - why spend more than you have to? They also do benchtops now, customed to the length you want (up to about 3 metres). They require finessing into non-square corners, but its not a huge job if you can think spatially and have the kit to do the work. I would rather spend a limited budget on a good shed and good tools so anything else, I can do myself, within reason.

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## snowyskiesau

I've a friend who's about to buy a Bunnings Flatpax/Kaboodle kitchen and I'm after a copy of the installation DVD or even written instructions. I'm not anywhere near a Bunnings store to be able to pick one up. anyone have one online somewhere? 
A new laundry  cupboard is being installed as a pre-kitchen test and having the DVD to watch before then will be a help to her (and probably me)
Failing that, what are the minimum tools need to put the carcass together? I remember the drill, screwdriver bits and level but I'm sure there was mention of a few drill bits, purpose unknown.

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## Master Splinter

Minimum tools - driver/drill, some screwdriver bits and maybe a holesaw if it has to go over a pipe. 
Have you checked the bunnies website to see if they have the instructions online?

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## Godzilla73

Electric planner for fitting tops and infills, jigsaw for bench top cut outs, you'll need 40mm 50mm and 60mm holesaws and some various thickness packers for leveling up the cabinets.

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## snowyskiesau

I couldn't find anything on the Bunnings site but I went to Kaboodle.com.au and their kitchen design link points back to a page at Bunnings. It has the prices too which is helpful. 
regards
Geoff

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## Eden

FlatPax D.I.Y. Kitchen Base Cabinets Video - Bunnings Warehouse 
this might get you started 
put hinges on 200mm or smaller cabinets first also 
ive got a list of tips and tricks  somewhere and will have a look when i get the chance 
cheers Eden  
( others for the  rangehood etc are at  Learn How To D.I.Y. - Bunnings Warehouse  )

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## stevoh741

> I've a friend who's about to buy a Bunnings Flatpax/Kaboodle kitchen and I'm after a copy of the installation DVD or even written instructions. 
> what are the minimum tools need to put the carcass together?

  a skip bin for when you realise how bad the quality of it is.

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## Godzilla73

> put hinges on 200mm or smaller cabinets first

  Do you have any info as to why?

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## Bonner & Hayes

It will make life easier then trying to do it after cupboard is screwed together. Your drill wont fit as it will be wider then the cupboard.

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## Eden

> a skip bin for when you realise how bad the quality of it is.

  
Have you actually put one together ever ? 
honest

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## stevoh741

I can see the poor quality just by looking at them in the green shed. I have also seen a lot of failed vinal wrap doors too. I'm yet too see any quality come out of china.

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## Eden

so thats a no  
as suspected

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## snowyskiesau

I spent part of today helping a friend put together a couple of the Bunnings cupboards together as a landry unit (kitchen soon). I couldn't see anything about the carcasses that would set them apart from locally made ones. Soft close hinges seemed sturdy enough. Only minor complaint is that the adjustable feet only go down to about 100mm which is still a bit high for my short friend.

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## Eden

there are 2 parts to the threaded feet  
cut the top of the base thread( the one with the round foot ) and the bottom off the top thread (that inserts to the square  cabinet fixture) and you can get them down to 45mm ish

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## zoutie

G'day.  I built an Ikea kitchen 5 years ago. Total project cost me 8k all in, about half spent at Ikea.  I designed it on their app which is handy as you can mix and match designs and then essentially print your order.  I have no knowledge on Bunnings and the others.  
My experience was that it was cheap, quite easy to do (that was the biggest indoor project I'd ever taken on at that time), and no special tools. 2 and a half years later when I sold, and it was showing no great wear at all.  Here is a link to other pics and comments.  
The hardest part of the job was adjusting a window size and removing a bit of gyprock to put noggins in for attaching the top cupboards. 
I'm in the market again for a kitchen, and recently spent a Saturday morning at Kitchen connection, but beginning at $20k  :Eek:  I need to consider some options.

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## jeremycarney

Bunnings and ikea kitchens look the part if installed correctly but they have no water resisting properties and the hinges are sub par and will start to fail after a short time

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## davidajelliott

I used Bunning's flat pack kitchen cupboards in my laundry , too see how good they really are and i have to admit i am rather pleased with the result. I did however glue (PVA Glue) and screw them to make them stronger ,as already mentioned the quality of your finish will show in the finished product. Take your time , get it right and don't fall into the "Must get it done this weekend" pitfall. I didn't like the look of the quarter turn fixing used by Ikea Kitchens , but I may still buy the Bench-tops from Ikea ( when i do get around to do my kitchen ) to get a different colour to what Bunnings has to offer. Ps- Bunnings didn't offer soft close hinges once ( do they now? ) but the Ikea ones do fit Bunning's kitchens  :Biggrin:

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## Pitto

i got a call up today to do a bench top quote on a mates Bunnings Kitchen, and I wasnt impressed by the quality. 
he has plans on demolishing the house in the next 5 years, so he's not overly worried about the quality of it.  
16mm melamine drawers on full extension runners that didnt work quiet right, and the pressed metal hinges are a let down. 
I still feel he could have done better going to a local cabinetmaker for it. 
Shop around i say, there a heaps of great cabinetmakers out there screaming for work and now is the time to bargain with them, you will
be surprised at what you can get local.  
GP

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## Eden

> i got a call up today to do a bench top quote on a mates Bunnings Kitchen, and I wasnt impressed by the quality. 
> he has plans on demolishing the house in the next 5 years, so he's not overly worried about the quality of it.  
> 16mm melamine drawers on full extension runners that didnt work quiet right, and the pressed metal hinges are a let down. 
> I still feel he could have done better going to a local cabinetmaker for it. 
> Shop around i say, there a heaps of great cabinetmakers out there screaming for work and now is the time to bargain with them, you will
> be surprised at what you can get local.  
> GP

    
if installed with 5 screws on the  carcase AND drawer sections and care is taken with the runners I would be surprised if it didnt work well as ive never had a bad one yet( but that might just be luck) - anyhow if it dont work take it back and swap it for another -easy - sorted 
the cheap (what 95% of the people get for some reason) hinges seem fine to me but if your that fussy you can get other quality ones and install them (same hole spaces) as the hinges are an option and there are several to choose from in soft close/push open /normal and so on 
so its up to you how cheap the hinges purchased are 
as with the cheap handles that 95% of the  clients go for -- get good ones if you want as the  carcases no longer come with them  
Ive now gone to 5 local cabinet makers and compared
-a basic 10 carcase (4 top and 6 base) "L" shape kitchen in white vinyl wrap with 5 L/m (3 square m) of benchtop
-adjustable feet  
-removable kickboards (snap in feet clips)
-solid back same material as the rest of the carcase 
-a top rail at the front(not little triangles stapled into the corners with holes in it to affix the bench
-a drip rail under the front edge of the benchtop so spilt sink water doesnt run under the bench and over the door into the carcase area (as it does in my kitchen, cabinet maker made and not a cheapie either)
-decent drawers ( they were all using 12mm apart from one using 16mm ) 
the bunnings kitchens I do, have "all" this so I needed to compare apples with apples 
the bunnings one came in at 3700 ish  
the lowest out of the 5 came in at 5200 
then up to 7150 
================ 
sorry pitto but I would love to find  a local that will do a competitive quote  
Im catching up with a chippie from N.Z. in about 3 weeks with a view to having things done by him as he assures me he was taught  a better standard of workmanship also
but  I need to wait till he moves down from Qld for a few weeks  
so in the  meantime its bunnings for now till I "SEE" better 
cheers eden

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## stevoh741

> if installed with 5 screws on the  carcase AND drawer sections and care is taken with the runners I would be surprised if it didnt work well as ive never had a bad one yet( but that might just be luck) - anyhow if it dont work take it back and swap it for another -easy - sorted 
> the cheap (what 95% of the people get for some reason) hinges seem fine to me but if your that fussy you can get other quality ones and install them (same hole spaces) as the hinges are an option and there are several to choose from in soft close/push open /normal and so on 
> so its up to you how cheap the hinges purchased are 
> as with the cheap handles that 95% of the  clients go for -- get good ones if you want as the  carcases no longer come with them  
> Ive now gone to 5 local cabinet makers and compared
> -a basic 10 carcase (4 top and 6 base) "L" shape kitchen in white vinyl wrap with 5 L/m (3 square m) of benchtop
> -adjustable feet  
> -removable kickboards (snap in feet clips)
> -solid back same material as the rest of the carcase 
> ...

  Hope the shed giving you kickbacks for blowing their trumpet so hard. Myself, I'm happy to pay extra for quality but good luck with it all  :2thumbsup:

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## r3nov8or

> Hope the shed giving you kickbacks for blowing their trumpet so hard. Myself, I'm happy to pay extra for quality but good luck with it all

  OMG! People get paid for their opinions here? How did i miss out? Where do I get some of that?  :Rolleyes:

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## Eden

Yeah Right  :No:     (kickbacks for blowing their trumpet so hard) 
as  you said in the second post on this thread  " its just my opinion " 
but ive thrown in the reasons for  why  i have that opinion and what has got me there 
if things change  so will my opinion   
ps -I rekon stratco is  comparable to the one thats paying me those big $$$$ for my praise so now with those royalties Im set  :Biggrin:  
cheers eden

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## Eden

the simple truth is most of my work is installing kitchens and as I do masons mitres onsite I get a lot of them from bunnings as not many cabinet makers will touch benchtops they haven't supplied  
I then often also pick up the tiling/painting/flooring or the other odd jobs needed to finish the job in the kitchen/laundry or bathroom that the units go into 
My kitchen was bought in 2006 and is the first decent one we ever had so went and got a semi top end kitchen ($14,000 b4 whitegoods) and I reckon now that I do it for a job (5 years in) I could do just as good a job using either stratco or bunnings for $7000 - $7500 plus the  $2500 -$2800 i would charge to install  
but  
I would have   -adjustable feet  -removable kickboards (snap in feet clips) -solid back same material as the rest of the carcase  -a top rail at the front(not little triangles stapled into the corners with holes in it to affix the bench) -a drip rail under the front edge of the benchtop so spilt sink water doesnt run under the bench and over the door into the carcase area -decent drawers  
and about $3500 in my pocket  :2thumbsup:  
so if Im going to install a kitchen I will pick one that doesnt shoot me in the foot or the pocket (b4 or after)
and isnt a dog of  a kitchen to install  
please show me better !!!!  
and ill use it if i can still afford it  
eden

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## cal_blam

> Hi There,  
> I'm new to the forum... and even newer to renovating! I've bought a property that needs work - and even though I'm excited to do it... its a little overwhelming. I've been looking at kitchen ideas and I can't go past the bunnings designs.
> I was just wondering if anyone could share some stories or much needed advice! 
> Thanks... Struggling!!

                                                     Some advice to AVOID using XXX company  ( Pm me for the sordid details) 
 I specifically went with this supplier for the availability of an 18  mm MDF option, which they touted as one of their special things on their website. 
 I have now been supplied with cabinets entirely with 16mm facings. 
 I did expect when I notified them of this error, they would simply cut and drill new panels and ship them out.
 When I first contacted them about this, the production manager very  rudely challenged me about why the change of specification should  matter, but inidicated that he woudl attend to it afetr he got back from  a couple of weeks away.
 Well that time has passed and he now advised me that he will not  rectify supply me with 18mm panels, as "I don't need them". He has told  me on the phone "I am splitting hairs, what with all the starving  children in the world". He has also told me that they are changing all  of their MDF supply to 16mm "it just hasn't hit their website yet" and  "that's the way it goes". It appears that at some point after I placed  the order, the production manager decided he would simply supply me to  their own choice of specification.
 The worst part is I have been waiting on the understanding that they  would rectify their own error, and now are refusing to supply what I  have paid paid for.
 If you have a particular design or specifcation in mind, and do not  want to have your time and money wasted, then AVOID AT ALL COSTS.  *
EDITED POST,  Removed company name for your protection.*

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## arms

> Some advice to AVOID using XXX company  ( Pm me for the sordid details) 
>  I specifically went with this supplier for the availability of an 18  mm MDF option, which they touted as one of their special things on their website. 
>  I have now been supplied with cabinets entirely with 16mm facings. 
>  I did expect when I notified them of this error, they would simply cut and drill new panels and ship them out.
>  When I first contacted them about this, the production manager very  rudely challenged me about why the change of specification should  matter, but inidicated that he woudl attend to it afetr he got back from  a couple of weeks away.
>  Well that time has passed and he now advised me that he will not  rectify supply me with 18mm panels, as "I don't need them". He has told  me on the phone "I am splitting hairs, what with all the starving  children in the world". He has also told me that they are changing all  of their MDF supply to 16mm "it just hasn't hit their website yet" and  "that's the way it goes". It appears that at some point after I placed  the order, the production manager decided he would simply supply me to  their own choice of specification.
>  The worst part is I have been waiting on the understanding that they  would rectify their own error, and now are refusing to supply what I  have paid paid for.
>  If you have a particular design or specifcation in mind, and do not  want to have your time and money wasted, then AVOID AT ALL COSTS.  *
> EDITED POST,  Removed company name for your protection.*

  this is one really pizzed off customer ,i have seen this line of comments from the same poster on many of the forums i am involved in .perhaps the poster should email a link to the company of their comments  so that the company can respond

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## watson

Thanks Tom

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## barney118

Interesting views in this thread, I have installed a green shed kitchen in a unit some years ago now and I couldn't fault it this was before they had adjustable legs and you didnt get a flush kickboard. 
I would like to hear specific and justifiable explanations apples with apples. How can you compare the MDF I hear the Aussie one is blue compared to green for imported (something like this how do you compare for water resistance?). I have also only heard manufacturers spruik that using a 2mm beading on the end cuts for an extra cost. I assume they are pretty much using full face front joins and dows and screws to put together. 
I dont have an issue with the carcasses maybe the doors are better else where?

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## passiveincome

Just my 2c worth on this. Friends have just done a reno with a kitchen from Buns and they had nothing good to say about it. Comments about the carcass quality and the door colours not matching apart from other comments were enough for me to say no thanks. I have done a couple of kitchens using Standfast Cabinets/Kitchens at Tuggerah (if anyone is looking up this way). They have been good to deal with and easy enough to install. They don't install kitchens, only supply parts. You will have to do your own measurements as well. I have no affiliations with this company whatsoever (just in case anyone was wondering).

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## shauck

I'd have to agree that Bunnies doors I've recently installed show pretty poor quality control. The carcases are pretty ok though.

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## davewastech

> if installed with 5 screws on the  carcase AND drawer sections and care is taken with the runners I would be surprised if it didnt work well as ive never had a bad one yet( but that might just be luck) - anyhow if it dont work take it back and swap it for another -easy - sorted 
> the cheap (what 95% of the people get for some reason) hinges seem fine to me but if your that fussy you can get other quality ones and install them (same hole spaces) as the hinges are an option and there are several to choose from in soft close/push open /normal and so on 
> so its up to you how cheap the hinges purchased are 
> as with the cheap handles that 95% of the  clients go for -- get good ones if you want as the  carcases no longer come with them  
> Ive now gone to 5 local cabinet makers and compared
> -a basic 10 carcase (4 top and 6 base) "L" shape kitchen in white vinyl wrap with 5 L/m (3 square m) of benchtop
> -adjustable feet  
> -removable kickboards (snap in feet clips)
> -solid back same material as the rest of the carcase 
> ...

  Hi Eden and other forum members,
What are these drip rails made of? (I saw the benchtops in Bunnies have a 5mm wide groove just underneath the bullnozing, is that it? What stops water drips from soaking into the chipboard via this groove?)
Cheers,
Davewastech

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## arms

> Hi Eden and other forum members,
> What are these drip rails made of? (I saw the benchtops in Bunnies have a 5mm wide groove just underneath the bullnozing, is that it? What stops water drips from soaking into the chipboard via this groove?)
> Cheers,
> Davewastech

  groove is usually filled with a wax substance to stop ingression of the chipboard

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## davewastech

> groove is usually filled with a wax substance to stop ingression of the chipboard

  Thanks Tom, 
Regards,
Davewastech

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## Eden

> Hi Eden and other forum members,
> What are these drip rails made of? (I saw the benchtops in Bunnies have a 5mm wide groove just underneath the bullnozing, is that it? What stops water drips from soaking into the chipboard via this groove?)
> Cheers,
> Davewastech

  Hi Dave  
most of the  benchtops from bunnings have  a thick transparent tape that is  a few mm wider than the groove on either side of it  under the lip so that it seals the groove also ! 
the older stock of their benchtops they may still stock in the smaller stores had a glue/silicon style filler in the gap as Tom has mentioned 
cheers eden

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## davewastech

Thanks Eden,
Dave

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## passiveincome

One thing that I have found out that would be of concern if you are getting a Bunnings or for that matter any Chinese made kitchen is that they do not have the same controls as we do here in regard to particle board and what goes into it. Apparently they use a lot of dangerous chemicals, including formaldehyde, in quantities that would be deemed dangerous in our country. Also it also appears that we export our scrap particle board and it comes back to us as items such as these kitchens and other cheap furniture. I have been given this information from a very credible source inside the industry. I recently bought a  desk from Fantastic and as soon as I unpacked it,  the smell of chemicals permeated our home causing irritation. I pose this question to all considering cheap imported kitchens. Is the health and wellbeing of your family worth the risk? Only you can answer this one, but as for me and my family the answer is a resounding NO. Buy safe, buy Australian

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## seriph1

Ill preface my response by saying I don't trust any 'country' to make better or worse base materials.  
When I hear that china makes product of inferior quality or health standards I am suspicious, especially when it leads to a statement that some other country (like australia) is inherently better/safer.  
What are the facts and to how many decimal places?  
But even anecdotally I am suspicious and here's why: products are developed for markets and while price is a HUGE driver, its not the only one. Legal requirements for the chemical make up of base materials in most western countries must have an impact. That said this may not relate finished products and even TKD/self build furniture. Once encapsulated in paint, vinyl or laminate risk from off gassing should be reduced as well I imagine.  
Anyway I am gonna go make a bunch of sawdust   :Biggrin:

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## Eden

I do nothing but install kitchens. ("Eden's kitchens" and I have no marketing, just word of mouth) 
I wont install Ikea ones anymore. 
I prefer Bunnings to the stratco ones but rate them as "fit for purpose" none the less. 
I prefer Bunnings ones and give my leads to Bunnings Woodville in south Australia as I feel they have a crew I can rely on! 
I get a 5% discount (peanuts) from them but the ability to sort an issue on the day to keep a client happy is paramount for me and never an issue at this particular store for me. 
I wish I had built my own kitchen (2005) with this stuff but alas I wasn't doing it for a living then and was still a consumer. 
I can recommend the Kaboodle product as an *"opinion"* above all I have dealt with and wish I had done my kitchen with it to start with.I would then have solid backs and a drip line under the benches along with a few minor details like solid drawers and decent bearing drawer runners etc.  
In Port Adelaide some of the land and buildings are not at a 45 degree alignment and I have been able to create kitchens to suit 55 degree walls (not 45) and also am able to alter benchtops to suit all shaped rooms on the spot with no issue (can confirm with photos) 
I will say Stratco and Bunnings  use HMR (and warranty against moisture) and not MDF like some others  :Eek:  
In six years of installing foreign vinyl wrap I have never repeat never had a callback! but 2 of the locally made vinyl wraps have had issues near the cooktop out of 11 installs so therefore I will only install vinyl wrap kitchens if foreign made and this is due to me wishing to sleep at night and not some stupid non aussie support notion. 
I need to install a product that wont bite me in the future  
anyone local or in the nation that can give me the quality and support needed to keep a happy client can pm me to supply materials and I will use them and spruke them if quality is there! 
PS, the *new range* of bunnings laundry cabinetry is of the same poor quality as "some of the others" and I wont install it either in the future once the good stock is run out  
"It is the consumer that drives the market" 
eden

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## Eden

just as a footnote, 
the purpose in practical terms to the consumer is that a benchtop dripline rather than stopping the ingress of water to the HMR (supposedly) benchtop board  
rather it is to stop the water overflow from a sink or spill/splash from going behind the doors and actually forces water to fall forward of the doors avoiding the carcass totally. 
food for thought! 
eden

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## shauck

> I wont install Ikea ones anymore.

  I just assembled and installed my first Ikea kitchen a few weeks ago. I would never, ever, ever recommend their stuff. Not even a solid back on the cabinets. I had to make cleats that fit in the cabinet for attaching to the wall. When I decided to rink Ikea (just to see what they had to say) and ask how to install these, they fobbed me off to bunnings, stating that bunnings have the hardware for fixing ikea cabinets, just tell them what type of wall, etc... Ok, so I called bunnings and after several pass arounds got the answer I expected to hear, "They're just fobbing you off. We don't stock any specific hardware for their products" 
Bunnings stuff, although not up to the standard of finish where I used to work (joinery/cabinetry company in Ballarat), is pretty good, far better than Ikea. The cabinets seem fine, just the doors were a bit average as the quality control on them lacked a bit.

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## seriph1

All excellent insights. The only reason I thought ikea had better product was because they sell the one product worldwide and their doors are nicer. Great to know the shortfalls even though I don't use either. My mums kitchen is a Bunnings job and frankly, apart from some errors if fitting it and one door that was supposed to be the same white but is off, the overall kitchen is great.

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## shauck

> The only reason I thought ikea had better product was because they sell the one product worldwide and their doors are nicer.

  Yeah, they're doors/drawer fronts are better.

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## timbahog

okay.....a lot of good advice in here.....now what is the decision???? 
Bunnings benchtops any good or no, I was looking at a post form with drip line, our current top hasn't got it and has lasted 30 years but has signs of deterioration behind the melamine.

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## David.Elliott

That the Ikea cupboards do not come with backs. Cannot say I know first hand for sure. I heard this second hand, forgot where. I did recently buy a Ikea porcelain sink however and the cupboard to match had no back. I did not buy that cupboard as the height was all wrong, plus the depth of the carcass was too shallow. It may have just been that as a kitchen sink cupboard it allows for the pipes etc. without having to cut out. Really like to hear for sure...

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## shauck

> That the Ikea cupboards do not come with backs. Cannot say I know first hand for sure. I heard this second hand, forgot where. I did recently buy a Ikea porcelain sink however and the cupboard to match had no back. I did not buy that cupboard as the height was all wrong, plus the depth of the carcass was too shallow. It may have just been that as a kitchen sink cupboard it allows for the pipes etc. without having to cut out. Really like to hear for sure...

  For sure. No backs. Ok, flimsy cardboard backs but I count that as no backs. Just put in a kitchen for a mate recently. I'd never buy them. Also, the connection of cabinets to wall is really only suitable for masonry. There are fixings in the top corners which will never line up with where your studs are. I had to cut and fit timber cleats inside the top back edge of each cabinet and use those to fix back to studs.  
Just to see what they'd say, I called Ikea to ask how I was supposed to fit these and the advise I was given was that all I had to do was call Bunnings and tell them the type of wall (plasterboard and stud frame) and they would have the "hardware" for Ikea cabinets. I then called Bunnings and after several passes to different staff, it was said, they don't stock any hardware for this. A blatant passing off.  
I would not call that the simplest of installation methods. When you buy a product as a complete flat pack, it should be all there, ready to fit. It's not that hard to cut and fit cleats but you shouldn't have to.  
Big thumbs down to Ikea for poor design, cheapness in materials (the backs) and incredibly poor service.

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## CuttingEdgeKitchens

> okay.....a lot of good advice in here.....now what is the decision???? 
> Bunnings benchtops any good or no, I was looking at a post form with drip line, our current top hasn't got it and has lasted 30 years but has signs of deterioration behind the melamine.

  Bunnings benchtops are fine BUT they don't come with any joins. I would get atleast 2-3 calls a week from Bunnings and Ikea customers wanting the joins in there bench tops cut!

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## timbahog

> Bunnings benchtops are fine BUT they don't come with any joins. I would get atleast 2-3 calls a week from Bunnings and Ikea customers wanting the joins in there bench tops cut!

  okay thanks for that, I intend doing my own joins,  
the other problem is the tops only come in 2.4m lengths, my sink counter top is 2.435, oh well such is life.

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## arms

> okay thanks for that, I intend doing my own joins,  
> the other problem is the tops only come in 2.4m lengths, my sink counter top is 2.435, oh well such is life.

   and if you do a masons mitre the top can go to 2975 mm in length . length only becomes a problem if you do full mitres as the join  :No:

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## timbahog

> and if you do a masons mitre the top can go to 2975 mm in length . length only becomes a problem if you do full mitres as the join

  I thought I would biscuit join 200mm on then trim to size then do the masons mitre, luckily the mitres will be females so I wont lose any length. 
stands up in theory anyway? 
do bunny's sell the colour tubes to hide the join a bit more?

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## arms

> I thought I would biscuit join 200mm on then trim to size then do the masons mitre, luckily the mitres will be females so I wont lose any length. 
> stands up in theory anyway? 
> do bunny's sell the colour tubes to hide the join a bit more?

  the product you are looking for is called seamfill I very much doubt you will be able to buy it at bunnings ,give it a go but at the first blank stare from their experts consider that your answer . give here a go seamfil  :2thumbsup:

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## timbahog

thanks for that, I had no idea what it was called.

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## arms

> thanks for that, I had no idea what it was called.

  knowledge shared is knowledge given freely

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## CuttingEdgeKitchens

> You'd be lucky to get a kitchen like that supplied and installed here for less than about $25k - the local suppliers seem to think it's open season on wallets.

  If you go to the big kitchen companies then what you said above is correct because you are paying for there large overheads!! 
If you go to a smaller company or a cabinet maker than you could get that kitchen installed easily for around $20k + appliances! 
Smaller companies will do a better job in less time!

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## rigger

My missus ordered a bunnings kitchen and we put it together over a couple days.
It was very easy and we are both happy with the quality.
We got "Think solid" benchtops and it looks great!

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## CuttingEdgeKitchens

> My missus ordered a bunnings kitchen and we put it together over a couple days.
> It was very easy and we are both happy with the quality.
> We got "Think solid" benchtops and it looks great!

   There is a big difference is quality between Bunnings and what a custom kitchen company will build. As long as your happy that's all that matters!

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## autogenous

I would have thought Bunnings have a duty of care on any of this? 
My concern with 'plastic' adjustable legs is in some cases large stone tops seem to load the legs within an inch of their capacity. 
Much of production is done by computer on CNC in many cases, not people. Doors, benchtops etc in many cases are bought from suppliers. Looking forward to do our kitchen and two bathrooms, laundry at some time next year. Will call some cabbies from the cabinet makers association to see how they fair before rushing off to purchase a flatpak option.  
Cabbies might not touch bench tops but a dedicated stone top company will, just for some balance in .
the discussion. 
Green board would be copper sulphate? Blue mel board would be....  Thats worth its salt when things go wrong. 
Keep in mind a full cabinet maker build and installation comes with a full warranty.   

> One thing that I have found out that would be of concern if you are getting a Bunnings or for that matter any Chinese made kitchen is that they do not have the same controls as we do here in regard to particle board and what goes into it. Apparently they use a lot of dangerous chemicals, including formaldehyde, in quantities that would be deemed dangerous in our country. Also it also appears that we export our scrap particle board and it comes back to us as items such as these kitchens and other cheap furniture. I have been given this information from a very credible source inside the industry. I recently bought a  desk from Fantastic and as soon as I unpacked it,  the smell of chemicals permeated our home causing irritation. I pose this question to all considering cheap imported kitchens. Is the health and wellbeing of your family worth the risk? Only you can answer this one, but as for me and my family the answer is a resounding NO. Buy safe, buy Australian

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## Gaza

> Green board would be copper sulphate? Blue mel board would be....  Thats worth its salt when things go wrong. 
> .

  What are you taking about green board ?

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## autogenous

>> Barney118: How can you compare the MDF I hear the Aussie one is blue compared to  green for imported (something like this how do you compare for water  resistance?).   

> What are you taking about green board ?

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## Gaza

> >> Barney118: How can you compare the MDF I hear the Aussie one is blue compared to  green for imported (something like this how do you compare for water  resistance?).

  
You mean HMR particle board, it's not copper slurphate, it's green die put in particular board as an identify so not to mix up plan with HMR particle board. 
MDF is also in HMR as well as standard no issue with using HMR Mdf for kitchens

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## Eden

those litttle legs hold in excess of 150kg each (4 per carcase) 
definitely not the weakest point in the build side of things 
eden

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