# Forum Home Renovation Structural Renovation  Treated Pine Vs Untreated Pine for Structural timber?

## Aussie Jimmy

I have read and know the differences in treated untreated pine but If being used as a structural frame, then cladded on both sides, water proofed and clad again on the exterior with stackstone would the timber need to be terated if it was protected from the weather and sealed properly etc? 
Pls be kind I'm asking for advice from those in the know  :Smilie:

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## shauck

As far as I know, treated pine would be for inground or close to ground use, such as subfloor. Normal pine for all other framing. I live in a different area to you and perhaps if high termite area, may be a different story.

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## ausdesign

Untreated pine would be fine if it enclosed but I would consider using H2 treated for termite protection. Any additional cost would give good piece of mind.

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## Aussie Jimmy

H2 Treated it is, even thought it may be possible to skimp on the costs it's probably an all round safter idea to stick with treated, the property I will be building is Located in Pilliga NSW

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## shauck

Just did a quick google to look for Pilliga and to see if it was a termite zone. Didin't specifically find out but did find this link biology - Pilliga which may interest you. It's about the Pilliga pine which is harvested in the area and is naturally termite resistant. You could probably source locally grown timber for your project.

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## goldie1

> Just did a quick google to look for Pilliga and to see if it was a termite zone. Didin't specifically find out but did find this link biology - Pilliga which may interest you. It's about the Pilliga pine which is harvested in the area and is naturally termite resistant. You could probably source locally grown timber for your project.

   pilliga pine is cypress

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## shauck

Ahh. Keep that stuff away from me then. I react really badly to it if I cut or sand it a lot. I would hate to build a whole house out of it. My worst nightmare. But that's just me.

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## Bloss

> Untreated pine would be fine if it enclosed but I would consider using H2 treated for termite protection. Any additional cost would give good piece of mind.

   :What he said:

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## ringtail

Yep go the T2 blue. Its costs a tiny bit more but its well worth it. You could get away with clear on the upper storey of a 2 storey but why bother. I'm seeing a few houses built on the ground or raised and built under using clear. Sign of the times, saving every cent to get a job at the expense of quality

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## barney118

What ringtail said, T2 cost about 10%more, I don't understand merchants selling clear for a lousy 10% less thinking they are doing you a favour.  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## shauck

Don't know if this is typical of prices elsewhere but one supplier in Melbourne is doing T2 90x45 MGP10 for $3.10 and 90x45 MGP10 for $2.18. How's that compared to what you guys are seeing?

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## Gaza

> Don't know if this is typical of prices elsewhere but one supplier in Melbourne is doing T2 90x45 MGP10 for $3.10 and 90x45 MGP10 for $2.18. How's that compared to what you guys are seeing?

  I think we pay 2.20 for untreated 2.80 for t2 3.85 treated

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## Aussie Jimmy

Anyone know of a good place/price for T2 or T2 Blue in NSW?
The closer to pilliga the better  :Smilie:  
Thanks for all your help guys
As for the pilliga pine/cypress is that cheap or good to work with?
Where'd you guys find info on this?

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## SilentButDeadly

I'd suggest that you get in touch with Cartref Cypress in Baradine and see if they can whip you up some local framing timber that is better the plain old radiata.  It can be very affordable especially when transport costs come into it.  Nice to work with when green(ish) and bloody strong when dry.  Also lasts forever.  Termites can't stand it.  Only downside is some people react badly to the resins and dust... 
If you must have T2 or T3 radiata pine then you'll probably have to hit up the Home Hardware or Mitre 10 outlets in Narrabri.

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## shauck

Using green timber is not supposed to be used if cladding with cement sheet tho, if you are using that (fire zone). If using James Hardie products for example, it will void warranty.

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## METRIX

T2 Blue is an internal timber only, I would use either T3 Green or preferably H2 / H3, these timbers are suitable for outdoor use, T2 Blue will Rot if subjected to  moisture, which it will probably get subjected to inside its waterproof coffin when subjected to temperature variations, cold mornings etc, and as it will be waterproofed there won't be anywhere for the condensation etc to escape so it will go straight into the timber.  
BTW: T2 90x45 Cost $2.80 p/m at my local bunnings [$17 retail for 6m stick], they are cheaper than most of the other places for trade price.
 They go through so much of it, a new load comes in every few days.

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## Bloss

> T2 Blue is an internal timber only, I would use either T3 Green or preferably H2 / H3, these timbers are suitable for outdoor use, T2 Blue will Rot if subjected to  moisture, which it will probably get subjected to inside its waterproof coffin when subjected to temperature variations, cold mornings etc, and as it will be waterproofed there won't be anywhere for the condensation etc to escape so it will go straight into the timber.  
> BTW: T2 90x45 Cost $2.80 p/m at my local bunnings [$17 retail for 6m stick], they are cheaper than most of the other places for trade price.
>  They go through so much of it, a new load comes in every few days.

   :What he said:  Humidity and moisture inside the cladding not a big issue in the Pilliga scrub . . . but the question the OP asked originally is not a regular house frame.

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