# Forum Home Renovation Kitchens  Marine ply kitchen benchtops

## hardwoodjoint

I'm planning on making kitchen benchtops out of 18mm marine grade ply glued to a yellow tongue sub-strate, total thickness 32mm.
Someone on this forum gave me the idea so can anyone suggest a suitable glue? Should I be gluing at all?
I was planning on edging the benchtops with some contrasting hardwood, Jarrah maybe?
Tops will be about 2m long in a U shape.
Any suggestions would be gratefully received from the wise ones!

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## Oldsaltoz

Almost any epoxy based clue will perform well, however it may be difficult to remove later. 
Good luck.

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## hardwoodjoint

Thanks for that. I'll have to find a bulk supply of epoxy.
Cheers

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## Master Splinter

Botecote for epoxy.

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## Oldsaltoz

> Thanks for that. I'll have to find a bulk supply of epoxy.
> Cheers

  If you add some Micro-Fibre to the mixture of epoxy resin it will thicken it slightly and make the joint very strong. 
Common Araldite is an epoxy based glue as well.

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## hardwoodjoint

Thanks for your help guys.
I'll go with Botecoat and filler.
Cheers
Tony

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## SilentButDeadly

Don't bother with marine grade ply.....standard CD construction ply (preferably from Hoop Pine) will be fine (it has the same bond as marine ply)....certainly has been for us (ours is simply oiled too). 
You'll find it far more cost effective and easier to use yellow tongue flooring as your substrate - it's cheaper per sqm, the right width and it has sealed edges. 
When you glue the two sheets together.....MAKE SURE IT IS CLAMPED just like you would when making a tabletop - in other words....well.  
As for glue.......I used plain old Liquid Nails - it's cheap and if it is good enough for your floor then it is probably good enough for your benchtops.  Certainly has been for us...
A contrast edge is a top idea - merbau decking is a handy size and the right price too.

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## hardwoodjoint

Thanks for the input S.B.D
I had a look at the marine ply today, the face is much nicer than the hoop pine, it's about the same price as well.
Joe at Joe's Ply in Unanderra recommends epoxy glue, I'd rather spend a few $ more on it at this stage.
I'm going too use clamps and some big pavers to hold the sheets together.
I'll have a look at the Merbau, but I'd like to buy Aussie if and when I can.
I'll be glad when this f#########% kitchen is finished! 
cheers
Tony

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## Gaza

i would use one layer of "good grade" for top and second layer of construction grade for the bottom.  
if using P/board flooring you will need to put it upside down so that you can bond to the unwaxed surface. 
you can screw from the underside to hold the two layers togther till the glue dires.

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## hardwoodjoint

Thanks Gaza,
The marine ply is nice grade A:A $219 per sheet.
I'm going to use the belt sander on the Yellow tongue to make sure the epoxy has a good surface.
Thanks for tip, I will use screws to pull them together. 
Cheers

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## Gaza

My thoughts   

> Thanks Gaza,
> The marine ply is nice grade A:A $219 per sheet.
> I'm going to use the belt sander on the Yellow tongue to make sure the epoxy has a good surface.
> Thanks for tip, I will use screws to pull them together.  
> Cheers

  You don't need a-a as the back face can be a down grade, I got some perfect a-b hardwood from Fa mitchel last week 6mm was $25 sheet 12mm $50 per sheet, this stuff was better than any marine ply I have seen and is hardwood. Give them a call you will save a few bucks, ask for blonde imported grade. They also have hmr particleboard which would save you
Sanding the particle board. 
IMO I would use a cross linked PVa to glue the two layers together considering that epoxy isn't used in either ply or p/b.

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## WorkClever

Don't forget to consider a breakfast bar in the kitchen
It will be worth it.

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## hardwoodjoint

Hi WorkClever,
Funny that, I suggested that to S.W.M.B.O this evening, she like the idea too. A good selling point when we sell the house.
Cheers

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## hardwoodjoint

Benchtop W.I.P
Just glued the marine ply to the yellow tongue with Bote Cote epoxy.
Stained with Cabots Australian Jarrah stain.
Pic shows Jarrah eding that will be joined to edge (biscuits) then coated with numerous coats of marine varnish. 
Cheers
Tony

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## WorkClever

Looking good when will it be ready to install?

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## hardwoodjoint

I'm just making a wall oven cabinet. Have to get the oven installed first. Then work out the cut-outs for the sink and gas range, then give everything a million coats of marine grade varnish, then it'll be ready to install. Easy!!
I'll post some pics later.
Cheers
Tony

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## hardwoodjoint

Hi guys and girls.
At the moment i'm making a wall oven cabinet, 16mm melamine.
My supplier says I should have a large hole in the shelf that the oven sits on. He says it's to allow air to circulate easily. A logical thought.
But my brand new Westinghouse oven instructions say that the oven must be supported across the whole base, it does'nt mention a hole at all. 
Hands up everyone who thinks I should get Jimmy Jigsaw out and cut a nice hole  :Redface: ) 
Cheers
Tony in wet wet Dapto.

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## SilentButDeadly

You need an air gap at the back of the oven....my flat pack oven cupboard has a gap that allows air to be drawn from a vent in the kickboard right up the back of the cupboard, past the oven and out the top.  Your oven is nowhere near as deep as your cupboard.....so the back of it is the best spot...

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## Godzilla73

G'day, 
If the instructions don't say to do it then you're ok not too, but if you have a shelf above for a microwave or overhaed cab, then leave a gap behind them. Say 60-80mm will be fine. Most new ovens vent out the front between the top of the door and control panel from a fan at the back of the unit.

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## hardwoodjoint

Thanks guys,
I've planned to leave the top 2 shelves short so the heat can eascape through the top.
I'll drill a few holes in the back too.
Cheers
Tony

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