# Forum Home Renovation Demolition  Removing brick wall section for door install - advice please

## Ben_82

I have a section of single brick wall (non load bearing) I need to remove so I can fit a sliding glass/security door. See attached pic. 
A few questions I have though; 
1. What's the best tool to use for the job? Was thinking angle grinder/circular saw designed for cutting brick? 
2. I assume I need some sort of support for the remaining 300mm of brickwork above the cutout. Would I have to install a lintel? If so how is the best way to go about this? Or maybe just cut the whole lot, install lintel and re-brick above? 
Thanks in advance  :2thumbsup:

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## ozwinner

The easiest way is to cut out the whole lot, install the door and either install a lintel with expansion joints both sides, or have an infill above. 
For mine I would have a timber infill above for the sake of 3 or 4 courses. 
Al  :Smilie:

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## ausdesign

I'd remove the brickwork above completely & think about a timber infill.
If it's a standard 1810 wide alum slider then it will fit inside 7 & a half courses so it will be a case of following the perp line & cutting each second course through the centre of the brick.
By my calc. you need to be one course higher than marked i.e. one course above the existing window.
Cut from the outside to try & keep a good line up against the alum. profile.

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## namtrak

Here's a pic of a similar lintel I put in last week.  If you want more detail, I can get some better pics.  Acrow props are indespensible.  http://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...chmentid=41571 
Cheers

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## Bloss

But Namtrak's was load-bearing and your's isn't. As others have said remove all bricks to top then frame up and in-fill with timber would be easiest and in that location would look OK (IMHO). To carry brickwork you would need a steel L-Beam - overkill for what you are doing. 
Hire a water cooled diamond brick cutting saw - half a day will see you done - the water keeps the blade cool, but importantly keeps the dust down. Arbortech brick cutters are great too, not seen them for hire though and they better suit openings where access is restricted. 
Before you cut around your marked line you should use a masonry bit in a hammer drill and clear mortar from joints in a few bricks at the top - in from where you will cut so you can tap out your first one with lump hammer perhaps with the help of a cold chisel. Others should then come out with gentle persuasion with the lump hammer. 
You could use the old sledge hammer and brute force way to drop the wall once you have cut all the way though - if you do not mind heaps of dust throughout the house and unpredictable spread of rubble. Of course no-one should be on the other side . . . 
You know all this no doubt, but cover floor and up walls using polytarps (use tape to hold and a few boards around the floor so you have a pool/pond for the water which will be muddy and filthy. Cover floor on both sides of wall and do not underestimate how far the rubbish will travel. Mask & eye protection essential as always and leather gloves as the mortar and bricks are hell on the skin. Around any demolition site steel capped boots are a great idea too.

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## Ben_82

Some excellent ideas there. Thanks I'll take the info into consideration and have a think about what to do.  :2thumbsup:

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