# Forum Home Renovation Leadlight  Using old leadlight as external window

## tombsc

Hi all 
I have an old leadlight approx 1700x1100mm that I would like to use as an external window in my bathroom. 
The leadlight is currently in an mdf reveal and is fitted quite loosely (it will rattle and flex if you push it gently).  
My plan is to build a hardwood reveal, put a piece of toughened glass on one side, attempt to move the leadlight into the new reveal against the new glass, then add a final piece of toughened glass to sandwich the leadlight in place.  
Problem is this is going to cost a small fortune, $150 - $200 for the new reveal, $500 in new glass.  
1. Good idea?
2. What is a better idea? 
Thanks
Tom

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## droog

If you sandwich the leadlight in place you will need to ensure it is airtight and preferably inert gas filled otherwise you will end up with fogging in between the panels.
I had a similar setup with a length of aluminium channel screwed to the top of the window frame and a removable pin at the bottom, the leadlight just sat in place in front of the glass.
If the leadlight is not stiff enough then brass came can be used around the outside to stiffen it up.

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## joynz

If worried about fogging, I think you can get the desiccant they put in between double glazed windows - in the bottom 'spacer' channel I believe.  This absorbs moisture.

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## tombsc

Thanks. I suppose I don't really need a piece of glass between the leadlight and the inside side of the window. 
That would save some $$ too.   
=============================

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## tombsc

Did it. Yey.

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## phild01

Very nice.
Is there much flex in the middle?

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## SlowMick

Very pretty window  :2thumbsup:

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## METRIX

Nice looking window, 2 things. 
Did you install any flashings onto the reveal before spraying all that sludge around it, I can't see a flashing from the inside of the reveal. 
Is that a Niche below the window ? is there any flex in the timber centre under the window, it looks like a rather large opening to have the timbers on their flat to stop it bowing.

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## tombsc

Thanks all 
No flex in the middle. I was worried about this but the weight of the window is on each side. I used packers over the where you can see the double studs running to the floor, and these take all of the weight. The niche is backed with 9mm (I think, its not the 6mm stuff anyway) cement sheet which gives it extra strength, and there are three 90x45s (well, two complete with one I chopped up in between) running along the top of the niche, all nailed and glued. So no flex even when I sat on it.  
Yes there is flashing installed bottom and sides. I also (over) filled with foam, and will be siliconing any gaps from outside to make it nice and weatherproof. The gap between us and next door is pretty much undercover anyway as we each have wide eaves so the window wont ever see the rain. 
Interestingly the window I removed had no flashing at all and was only held in by the sill mortar bed at the bottom, a piece of quart along the top and sides and two nails. Did the job for 60 odd years though.  
I did make one big mistake though, I didnt clean the inside of the glass very well, so my grubby fingerprints are preserved between the leadlight and the safety glass forever. I think thats my wifes favourite bit as its all she mentions about it.

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## phild01

The flex I was referring to is the inward/outward movement.  So when cleaning the centre of the window how much pressure can be applied without flexing it. Over time, the leadlight may loosen up a bit due to these pressures. Just wondering.

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## METRIX

Out of curiosity  how did you attach the flashing, is it turned up and running to the inside of the window such as the diagram I can't tell from the picture, don't worry about the diagram showing weatherboards.
 I assume yours is brick, if it is the flashing also needs to run down under the brick sill and out weep holes under the sill.

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## tombsc

> The flex I was referring to is the inward/outward movement.  So when cleaning the centre of the window how much pressure can be applied without flexing it. Over time, the leadlight may loosen up a bit due to these pressures. Just wondering.

  Ahh I see. There is a piece of 5mm safety glass on the outside, the leadlight is sitting directly against/ siliconed to that glass so any pressure on the leadlight does not result in any flex. Hopefully that will be Ok.

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## tombsc

> Out of curiosity  how did you attach the flashing, is it turned up and running to the inside of the window such as the diagram I can't tell from the picture, don't worry about the diagram showing weatherboards.
>  I assume yours is brick, if it is the flashing also needs to run down under the brick sill and out weep holes under the sill.

  Not quite like that diagram. It looks like they have a seperate sill running under the window, whereas I built the sill into the frame I made. Maybe Ive messed that up?
Anyway, my flashing runs from the inside edge of the frame, under/around the frame, then outside. I siliconed the join to the inside edge of the frame as well to create a barrier.
The visible bit of the sill outside is made of what looks like thick tiles (sorry there is probably a proper name but I dont know), so when I put these back on, the flashing will run underneath the new mortar bed, which I will create some weep holes in.  
I think I have probably overbuilt for what is needed (definitely improved on what was there) but maybe not quite met the right standards.

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## METRIX

It's ok to have the sill as part of the reveals, but it needs to have an angle on the bottom sill as shown in the diagram so water will run off and not pool on the timber as will happen when it's flat..
Bottom sill needs to made from hardwood preferably. 
The flashing does need to extend to the inside of the reveals, then gets turn up and fixed inside to create a barrier so if water does pool it cant get inside and end up running down the inside of the wall without you knowing. 
It's not too late to fix this, but it will require you taking the window out and putting a proper timber sill on the window, then flash it correctly, unfortunately silicon is only a temporary thing, it may last 2 years, it may last 10.

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## tombsc

> It's ok to have the sill as part of the reveals, but it needs to have an angle on the bottom sill as shown in the diagram so water will run off and not pool on the timber as will happen when it's flat..
> Bottom sill needs to made from hardwood preferably. 
> The flashing does need to extend to the inside of the reveals, then gets turn up and fixed inside to create a barrier so if water does pool it cant get inside and end up running down the inside of the wall without you knowing. 
> It's not too late to fix this, but it will require you taking the window out and putting a proper timber sill on the window, then flash it correctly, unfortunately silicon is only a temporary thing, it may last 2 years, it may last 10.

  Thanks for the info. I think Im 2/3 there as the frame is hardwood and the sill slants down as I put an angled piece on. There is a large angle on the flashing so I dont see how any water could run uphill and pool, and the area is undercover anyway so no chance of it getting wet. The previous window had no flashing and there were no signs of water.

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