# Forum More Stuff Go to Whoa!  Mancave Refresh

## nathan29

Hi all, New to this forum I found while I was googling for some ideas one day. I thought id share what Im doing at the moment with the ole shed out the back. Its a 6x6 mtr asbestos sheeted mess lol Had the asbestos removed last week and having a go at resheeting it with some colorbond fencing sheets from stratco. I'm no builder but Ive given it a shot so any constructive criticism/ideas I'm open to Cheers 
Before we got started.     
While the asbestos was being removed.  
Covered with some sarking to keep the weather out while Im working in the meantime.. Dont know how well it will keep the heat out but worth a try I guess.   
Taking the old "dodgy" garage door frame out.   
New frame in and door bolted up  
Started with the colorbond sheeting. 
New garage door frame

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## Danny.S

Welcome to the forum Nathan. (Guessing your name from the username) 
Some great advice around here, it would be great if you popped a few photos up to understand your project. 
Regards
Danny

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## nathan29

Cheers Danny, 
Was just trying to figure out how to upload :S lol. All good now. 
This is pretty much where I am at now after a few days, had a few issues with cutting the color-bond but got there in the end.  :Biggrin:  
Waiting to receive some more sheets from Stratco this week to start on the roof area. Will be interesting cutting them to size  :Annoyed:

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## cam_jim

Thanks for the pics. Always like these Go to Whoa threads. What did it cost to have the asbestos removed?

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## nathan29

It was around 40 square mtrs all up. had 4 different quotes which varied from $1700 - $4000 we ended up using a guy which cost around $1800 and was the most professional of the lot! Had it done in around 4-5 hours

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## CraigandKate

> Cheers Danny, 
> Was just trying to figure out how to upload :S lol. All good now. 
> This is pretty much where I am at now after a few days, had a few issues with cutting the color-bond but got there in the end.  
> Waiting to receive some more sheets from Stratco this week to start on the roof area. Will be interesting cutting them to size

  Best way I found to cut colourbond to size was to use a metal blade in a circular saw, just lay the sheet out nicely on some saw horses, and clamp a nice straight edge across to guide the saw. Also found it good to masking tape the bottom of the saw to stop it scratching, and it is definitely a high level ppe job, long sleeves, gloves, earmuffs and a face guard. 
Whats your plans for the ends of the trusses that you have left bare? Normally the colourbond would be run right up to the roof. Also sarking of some description under the roofing tin makes a big difference to summer temps. 
Cheers, 
Craig

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## nathan29

Hi Craig, 
Thanks for the advice. At the moment Im using a "Sontax Nibbler drill attachment" It seems to be ok but hard to get a clean straight cut. 
The colorbond is going right to the top, it will come over the top 100mm the way I have it all cut... In hindsight I should have ordered bigger sheets to go to the roof all in one peice  :No:   But that means I will have enough sheets left over in my budget to cover both garage doors rather then paint them :Biggrin:

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## woodchip

Looking good mate, your much better off with the nibbler, you really need to cut colourbond with a "cold" cut otherwise the hot cut of a grinder for example will rapidly rust, for a straight edge, you could use your nibbler to cut 10 to 20mm from where you want the finished cut, then go back with good hand shears (get good ones like Wiss, get the green, red, & yellow, you can buy then in a pack), you don't have much to do so it will be fine, its very easy cutting 10mm or so off, as it curls away, so there is no resistance to cutting, cheers.

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## CraigandKate

Woodchip is on the money with needing to be a cold cut, tin snips could be a cheap option if you have them already I did try tinsnips but I had 42m+ of cutting to do so bought a blade for my circular saw as a much faster easier to get a straight cut method, it is a cold cut also it cuts/tears the tin doesn't burn. 
Craig

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## nathan29

The nibbler seems to be doing the trick, using the snips here and there. Got the front of the roof done today hopefully do the back tomorrow then onto the grage doors!! After then I never want a touch another piece of corro!!!!

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## nathan29

This is pretty much where I'm at today. The flashings around the 
door are just dummied up to see how they look.  
I have some flashing for the roof coming on tues to finish that off then its just all the small tthings sheet the doors, finish of flashings, touch up paint here and there and more screws. 
Going to change the front left door as well.

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## nathan29

Converted the old tilt door into a gate to give me more clearance and space in the shed. Have some new gutters to go on when I get a chance to and then paint the gate frame and this side will pretty much be done

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## nathan29

Gutters close to being finished door is ccovered and flashings are on  :Smilie:

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## jatt

Is it just me or do u have some serious deflection in the wall above that garage door?

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## jatt

as in post no. 12 
It could still be fixed if u havent cladded inside yet.  Principles are the same as putting a lintle above a window.   
just my 2 bobs worth, but I would seriously fix it now, especially given the trouble you are going to on this project.

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## DuckCommander

> Is it just me or do u have some serious deflection in the wall above that garage door?

  I agree. The top plate cannot span that far. You need a lintel!

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## nathan29

Thanks for the help, I noticed this the day after I took the photos. On the day of building it everything looked ok but has now gradually started to sag. 
I've looked into getting lintel. Is there anything I can use? Like a decent sized beam to take the weight?

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## DuckCommander

> Thanks for the help, I noticed this the day after I took the photos. On the day of building it everything looked ok but has now gradually started to sag. 
> I've looked into getting lintel. Is there anything I can use? Like a decent sized beam to take the weight?

  
Yes a decent size beam. Timber takes up to 12 months to deflect to it's final position due to long term creep, so it will more than likely sag further.. If you have any spare timber beams lying around you can check your span tables with corresponding roof load width or I like Hyne's design software which is available for free.

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## jatt

I wouldnt go any smaller than 145 x 45.  But as already recommended go and check out span tables. 
Correctly supporting the ends is obviously important too. 
Personally I recon you could use an LVL or C section, but as always, getting a pros opinion onsite is my advice.   
Hint, beer always helps here.  Thats how I got a chippy to check my handiwork on my Go to Whoa. :Biggrin:

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