# Forum Home Renovation Bathrooms  How to fix screws flush with villaboard?

## JMB

Hi. I have been attempting to fix some villaboard sheets to the timber framing in my bathroom with self embedding screws but the screw heads keep finishing up sticking out from the wall slightly [ie. are not flush with the villaboard]. I've tried countersinking the villaboard for the screw heads before fixing in the screws but my countersink bit has become blunt very quickly, and there is a lot of screws to be used. Can anyone explain how to get screws flush in villaboard? Thanks.

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## fubar

buy a 10 pack of 10mm jobber drill bits(cheap throwaways) and use them to cut countersink they wont last long but will be cheaper than countersinker or if youve got a drill bit sharpener just resharpen dont use drill flatout as you  can drill to far but practice makes it pretty easy use a low speed

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## Border boy

I found the same thing - dunno about how to use screws & get them to finish flush. Ended up using fibre cement nails/clouts.
Good luck.

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## arms

> Hi. I have been attempting to fix some villaboard sheets to the timber framing in my bathroom with self embedding screws but the screw heads keep finishing up sticking out from the wall slightly [ie. are not flush with the villaboard]. I've tried countersinking the villaboard for the screw heads before fixing in the screws but my countersink bit has become blunt very quickly, and there is a lot of screws to be used. Can anyone explain how to get screws flush in villaboard? Thanks.

  villaboard is usually just spot nailed to walls and ceilings until the glue(you are using glue ???????????) dries , screws may seem the right way but are an over kill

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## Vernonv

Use a masonry bit for the countersink. It will last longer than a normal countersink bit or HSS drill bits.

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## Vernonv

> villaboard is usually just spot nailed to walls and ceilings until the glue(you are using glue ???????????) dries , screws may seem the right way but are an over kill

  That is not always the case. Under tiles, villaboard should only be nailed or screwed and no glue should be used.

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## JMB

Thanks for the replies. The villaboard is being used under tiles so I wont be using any stud adhesive. Since I've have bought the screws I'd like to use them. I do like the idea of using a masonry bit to countersink the holes, Vernon. I'll give that idea a go.

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## Ronaldo451

_I do like the idea of using a masonry bit to countersink the holes, Vernon_ 
Masonary bit is the way to go, but DON'T use the hammer action, just normal drill setting.

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## kombiman

> That is not always the case. Under tiles, villaboard should only be nailed or screwed and no glue should be used.

  Out of interest why? 
I think the stud adhesive and clouts/screws would hold better than just clouts/screws?

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## Vernonv

> Out of interest why? 
> I think the stud adhesive and clouts/screws would hold better than just clouts/screws?

  Don't know exactly, but I would assume that the glue does not stand up well to the increased weight of the tiles on the sheet. Note that there are a lot more fasteners and they are spaced quite close together when the sheet is to have tiles on it (as opposed to not). 
I think you will find that every fc sheeting manufacturer will specify that you should not use glue when tiles are to be used.

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## kombiman

> Don't know exactly, but I would assume that the glue does not stand up well to the increased weight of the tiles on the sheet. Note that there are a lot more fasteners and they are spaced quite close together when the sheet is to have tiles on it (as opposed to not). 
> I think you will find that every fc sheeting manufacturer will specify that you should not use glue when tiles are to be used.

  
Ive always used glue _and_ lots of fasteners (clouts) when tiling over the top.

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## Vernonv

> Ive always used glue _and_ lots of fasteners (clouts) when tiling over the top.

  ... and I very much doubt you will ever have a problem.  :2thumbsup:  
Maybe I'm a bit over cautious, but when I use a product, I like to know that I am fixing it, or apply it, as per the manufacturers instructions. This is especially so if I am pushing a product to it's limits (like by sticking heavy tiles to it). Seeing as the manufacturer has committed this information to publication, I'm assuming they have done the appropriate testing and will stand behind their product.

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## arms

villa board is a walling material ,there are specially manufactured ac sheets to be fixed under tiles floors these have fixing spots marked on them for the NAILS to be placed

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## Bloss

I know it goes against the grain, but there are instructions that can easily be found and read: http://www.jameshardie.com.au/NR/rdo...stallation.pdf  :Biggrin:  :2thumbsup:  
Although I only recently read the instructions I have been using the proper nails for the job on timber framing for yonks and they work fine. Screws are only really needed for metal framing and then you use the flush finish Tek screws designed to finish level - and they do. And adhesive is neither recommended or needed for walls, but is for ceilings (not soffits).  :2thumbsup:  
BTW - It seems counter-intuitive, but using adhesives when the manufacturer says not to, or doesn't actually tell you to,  is often a way to end up with a bad result. Many DIYers (and tradies for that matter) take the 'belts & braces' approach, but often this can be a case of 'less is more'. Manufacturers like selling more stuff - if they thought adhesives was a good idea for any product they'd tell you.

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## kombiman

> I know it goes against the grain, but there are instructions that can easily be found and read: http://www.jameshardie.com.au/NR/rdo...stallation.pdf  
> Although I only recently read the instructions I have been using the proper nails for the job on timber framing for yonks and they work fine. Screws are only really needed for metal framing and then you use the flush finish Tek screws designed to finish level - and they do. And adhesive is neither recommended or needed for walls, but is for ceilings (not soffits).  
> BTW - It seems counter-intuitive, but using adhesives when the manufacturer says not to, or doesn't actually tell you to,  is often a way to end up with a bad result. Many DIYers (and tradies for that matter) take the 'belts & braces' approach, but often this can be a case of 'less is more'. Manufacturers like selling more stuff - if they thought adhesives was a good idea for any product they'd tell you.

  Oh poohoo what would they know?   :Blush7:  
I have only done retro fit repairs so go for the 'I know its done' policy.  Liquid nails, real selleys no more gaps and real dulux paint make kombiman very happy  :2thumbsup:

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## Halfie

If you want to drive them flush you will need a proper drywall screwgun with fresh tips....even then with experience you will only drive 95% of them in properly first attempt.

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## 2x4

not meaning to hijack, but if using villaboard on the cieling, once the glue is set is it ok to take the screws out (rondo Battons)

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## arms

> not meaning to hijack, but if using villaboard on the cieling, once the glue is set is it ok to take the screws out (rondo Battons)

  after you have gone to the effort of putting them in i cant see the need to then take them out ,especially in a ceiling

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## 2x4

It's not that I want to take them out, but the batons I'm using round out really easily with the tech screws. I would like a flat finish to the deck cieling. Am I doing something wrong?

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## arms

its not really the practice to villa board ceilings ,the wet area is lower down and thats why you only need to villa board walls ,i see no real problem with taking the screws out in your situation but i would double the glue dobs under the board as thats the only thing that will be holding it up ,a good quality gyprock adhesive is the prefered glue not liguid nails as it can become brittle with age

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## PlasterPro

2X4 
I personally would not take the screws out, (not sure it would be recomended by any manufacture)- have seen the glue let go on ceiling too many times! 
as has been said before a proper dry-wall screw gun single shot type is best for villa,240 volt not cordless, and a bit of patiance and practice, 
Did you consider WR plaster board for your deck ceiling?

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