# Forum Home Renovation Flooring  yellow tongue flooring drama

## shauck

Oh, what a suck of a day, yesterday. Got onsite after Monday off (Easter and rained). Floor sheets are not good. One has bubbles in it and the rest are sort of all over bumpy. Never seen it before. Looks like no proper coating.  
Contacted the supplier who asked for a photo. Nik used her iphone, so we managed to send a pretty clear photo of the problem. They said, that shouldn't happen so the manufacturer wants to come out and see it. This is potentially going to be a nightmare.  
What do you think we can expect regarding covering all costs of this product failure?  
Time lost (pay) waiting for them to  sort it out (maybe pulling up and replacing, maybe fixing it somehow)?
If we sort it out, recoup all labour and material costs? 
Anything else, in you're experience, you can think of as relevant? 
The floor is screwed down, by the way, as it was to be the finished floor. 
If saving the floor....
In this case, do you think the underside would be moisture affected and  negate this attempt to fix? (subfloor has double sided foil between  joists and blocking between joist ends)
Can this floor be saved and be expected to have a full life somehow? (This would be my hope). 
Perhaps sanded and polyurethane coating, then finish the house and final sand and recoat???  
If replacing the floor....
Anyone had to rip up flooring before? What's that gonna be like?
How hard is it to get the glue off the joists without butchering them? 
They were super level before and I really don't want all that good work undone.  
Anyway, now I have to think of a way of building walls and stacking them until this problem is sorted, otherwise it's a standstill and will they cover my bill for being forced to sit on my hands? 
Arrgh!!

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## ringtail

Certainly looks like its delaminated internally, just like chip board left in the rain would. Not ideal but can you lay another floor over the top ( more yellow tongue or ply) after getting a floor sander to smooth it out ? Of course the manufacturer/supplier should pay for the lot, whether that happens is another story. Are all the sheets like that ? If so - faulty batch and would make it easier for a total replacement claim

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## stevoh741

will your insurance cover if the supplier wont?

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## ringtail

Good point. I have contract works insurance in case materials get nicked or damaged

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## Gaza

what brand was it? 
good luck getting anymore than a few sheets out of a suppiler they will run for the hills, you could always do a cut in floor like the old days.

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## Bloss

Important to remember the Trade Practices law here: the _retail supplier_ is responsible to replace at no cost to you - NOT the manufacturer. You have a contract only with the retailer you bought it from - they have a contract with the manufacturer (or distributor). So do not accept any position put by your supplier about what the manufacturer is saying or doing - the supplier to you must replace faulty goods - they might want to get that loss reimbursed by the manufacturer, but that should not be your worry. Likewise your costs - all are due to faulty goods so are recoverable from the supplier who sold you those goods. 
Now to practical matters -
1) this is clearly a faulty batch (assuming the resin treated water resistant side was facing the weather . . . ie: was up). It looks it, but hard to tell in a pic. I have seen yellow tongue/ panelfloor floors down for months and never look like that! So the place which sold them to you have to supply replacements - all of them, no doubt at all.
2) the labor etc is more of a problem simply because they are likely to not want to pay - but they won't win that one either. But the best bet is to get you immediate issue sorted and the floor up an back down and all and covered etc and then follow up on the loss. BUT make the claim for the loss straightaway - you need to set the expectation right up front that this is not simply replace the product. Don't go t a lawyer, but make it very clear that you will be seeking reasonable compensation and will do what's needed to get it (it might be Nik if she bought the materials and/or is owner builder?). Vic Fair Trade is next step, but most business will not want the bad rep from this - nor will the manufacturer/ distributor.
3) When you put the new floor down whack on a coat of sealer and tape all joins. The sealer needs to be compatible, but you likely sand it off t put final finish n so it's not all that critical so long as it does not affect adhesion of later coats.
4) BTW - there has been some rubbish Chinese and Brazilian flooring imported so might be that - even so it doesn't matter as your local supplier is responsible.

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## ringtail

:What he said: . Be good if the materials were on a account. You sort of have them over a barrell

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## Gaza

> Chinese and Brazilian flooring imported

  any links to this stuff? 
have not seen or herd of this being imported there was white tongue ex NZ 10yrs back other than that only 3 Aus makers

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## Bloss

No, but I've seen it in the ACT on commercial sites. Brazilian is ply and OSB.

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## Gaza

> No, but I've seen it in the ACT on commercial sites. Brazilian is ply and OSB.

  ply have seen and brought for a few jobs but we try to use Aus where possible, seen brazilian / chillian stuff delaminated after few months outside as a hoarding

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## shauck

The floor is definitely the right way up.  
Not sure of the brand. Will no doubt discover that when the supplier and manufacturer come out on Friday morning to assess.  
Yes, most of the sheets are affected, although the two bedrooms are yet to behave so badly. I reckon, another rain would see them go as well. The surface of the sheets look almost like wheetbix and even the ones that haven't gone all bumpy yet, look like the coating is virtually non existent.  
I have so far talked to the supplier only and they seem to be making all the right noises. The supplier has said that, based on the photo, they and the manufacturer both agree that this shouldn't be happening. The supplier, as you figured they would Bloss, have talked about the manufacturer making good all the material and labour costs involved. I will accept that if it so happens that way but if the manufacturer gets difficult I will remind the supplier of their responsibility. I've even told them they need to hurry up and get out here as I don't want any delay/downtime, waiting for them as it will cost them. I have said that I could be downing tools right now but have decided to keep making frames and will stack them for now but that will mean getting a few hands on to lift them.  
So far all conversation has been polite and reasonable. I hope to keep it that way. I would like to be able to maintain a relationship with this company.  
I did wonder if it would be possible to relay a floor over this one, after a sand. It may mean removing one wall of the bedroom (may be able to save the bedroom floor) that is already up as it sits on the end joists/floor edge of the level below. 
So, how would you fix a floor over the existing?  
Would you remove all screws of floor underneath and lay sheets in same/different pattern on top and long screws down through the lot or screw and glue to existing sheets, perhaps perpindicularly?  
I worry that the sheets underneath aren't going to go the distance and will break down prematurely. I hope that whoever is sent out, will have a clue on this and will give assurance if they think it can be left in place and covered.  
Maybe a floating floor? 
Anyway, almost running outta floorspace today. Will have to get a couple of hands on to stack them. Going to be a pain but at least will be able to continue until the solution is decided on Friday.

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## ringtail

If relaying over the existing I would get a floor sander in to knock the top of it, use bulk ultraset and long screws in the same pattern

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## shauck

Cheers Ringtail. I like that option as it obviously saves a lot of pain getting the busted chipboard and glue off the joists while trying to not take joist material with it. Just hope it's do-able and agreed upon.  
If the sheets have to come up, is there a best way to remove the c**p off the joists? Would it wreck my brand new planer? Some other better suited tool?

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## Bloss

Ringtail's on the money - if you can leave it there it should be fine once its dried out and sanded. A cheap Ozito planer will take the glue off if you have to lift them, but a lot easier if not. I would not remove screws, but drive them deeper then re-glue & re-screw - same layout as existing. Doesn't matter who pays so long as it is not you - they are clearly at fault so calm, but firm and persistent is the go.

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## shauck

I was thinking of leaving the existing screws and lay in the same pattern but start with a half sheet (cut down the length) so the new screws don't hit the existing screws. The Bostik Ultraset you mention, I just looked it up. It seems like a product used after house is weather tight. Will it be ok if sheets exposed to rain before it cures (24hrs)? It covers 1.2m2 per litre! That's a lot of ultraset (bulk), is it pricey? Surely construction adhesive would be ok to use?

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## ringtail

> I was thinking of leaving the existing screws and lay in the same pattern but start with a half sheet (cut down the length) so the new screws don't hit the existing screws. The Bostik Ultraset you mention, I just looked it up. It seems like a product used after house is weather tight. Will it be ok if sheets exposed to rain before it cures (24hrs)? It covers 1.2m2 per litre! That's a lot of ultraset (bulk), is it pricey? Surely construction adhesive would be ok to use?

  Sounds good. As long as the sheets end join over a joist you wont have a drama. I wouldn't be tempted to rely on the old sheets and join in between joists. Ive found the construction adhesives go brittle. Ultraset is specifically designed for flooring, strip or sheet and is the glue of choice for flooring. I buy it in sausages. A carton of sausage was pretty cheap from memory and worked out to be only a bit dearer than construction adhesives as you get heaps more in a sausage

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## shauck

All joins in exactly same pattern, just half a sheet shifted sideways. Instead of first row 900mm wide, rip to 450 wide. Then none of the screws, except for the floor edge need removing. Even then, I could either go closer or back off from the edge a little to miss them. I think remove edge screws tho.

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## shauck

From the technical data sheet. 
PRIMING
Ultraset SF generally does not require priming, except in applications where moisture migration may be evident. Bostik Moisture Seal is recommended if the moisture content is above 5.5% or 70% relative humidity when tested in accordance to Australian Standard AS1884-1985. 
This got me thinking. How do I deal with this? Is this likely to be problem? Floor is generally dry, except dew in mornings, so difficult to start on until dry in the midday-ish?? Gonna be a big time wasting job, this one, sitting about waiting for floor to be dry. Can only make so many frames and stack em until I run out. Any ideas or opinions on this?

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## ringtail

How big is the area ? can you tarp it up overnight ? 
Or, get the walls up on the old floor, get a lid on it then do a cut in floor in yellow tongue. More arsing around but at least you could get on with it

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## shauck

With a cut in floor, I imagine you would noggin between the joists at  the ends of each room? Only problem with that would be the double sided  reflective foil. I can't think of a way to reinstate it. It's folded up  the sides of the joists (joists are blocked at ends already) and stapled from above. No access.  
Would screws  (and glue of course) into the original floor be enough instead? The supplier has three layered yellow tongue floor done this way (to make up a level error)  
I like  the idea, as it will mean a floor with no weather exposure at all. 
Funny you mention tarping it up. I'll fill you all in on the meeting with the manufacturer, the supplier and his supplier. All three came yesterday.  
As was to be expected, the manufacturer rep was a little cagey, not forthcoming with any definitive findings (not allowed). Will be sending all the information back to head office. The company is Carter Holt Harvey (not a cheap import). The product is Structafloor.  
His questions were mostly relating to how long the floor had been down, when it was delivered, etc. Fortunately, I keep detailed time sheets with all the work I do each day, for my own record (thanks to my first chippy boss). I was able to show dates and prove that it had been down a short time and had not been rained on until the day before the problem really became obvious.  He brought out his little moisture meter. Sooo impressive. Between 6-8 % generally. Obviously, with the sun beating down on it, it would have dried out. Besides the issue is the resulting effect on surface of sheets caused by the moisture from rain and dew. 
There was long discussion on the wheetbix-like nature of the floor in general and that the coating is inadequate. He explained a previous scenario where similar problem had happened and the builder finished the build and sanded and he had not heard from them again (assuming all ok). I asked him if it was as bad, he said no. I also said would he guarantee this floor to last until the build is finished and for a sanding to work. He c 
It was also discussed that only 2mm can be removed from floor at time of sanding. I pointed out that with all the bumps, that was unlikely to be possible, especially where bubbles appear (only on a couple or sheets), the floor surface will just be ripped away. Also the floor may get worse before it's covered. Too speculative for me. Again no guarantee.  
He also said no tarps can be used to protect the surface until the roof is on. He also said it shouldn't be tarped on site. He also asked if it was a full pack, which it was, as it came wrapped!!! Hmm wrapped product from the manufacturer. Bit of a contradiction here.  
He also said floor should not be sealed after sanding. That it traps moisture, blah blah, timber shrinkage and contraction, sheets buckle, edges lift, etc. Floor warranty voided in this case. I questioned him on this, although accepting a warranty would be voided if it was done, but surely as others have done it with success, it must be ok to do. He was certain it was not ok to do. Hmmm.  
We were able to show plenty of offcuts that had remained under cover the whole time, with irregular surface coating/some with rougher surfaces, including a batch number. He took some of these with him and took several photos of the floor. 
We also pointed out the lack of/irregular waxy yellow coating on the edges of sheets. Also able to point out gaps between parallel sheets, both full length (small part of room), tight in the corners and approx 3mm gap along the middle. The tolerance is supposed to be half that, 1.5mm.  
I basically at the end of it, was not convinced the floor could be expected to go the distance without getting worse, have a less than 2mm sand at the end of build and still be able to be a finished floor surface. He couldn't agree or disagree (not really allowed at this point) but it seemed pretty obvious he knows this floor has issues. 
I did discuss the preference to leaving the floor down and laying on top as this would be less costly for them. I also said we want a quick decision as I'm about to run out of external frames soon and that wasted time will also cost them.  
It was discussed with both suppliers and manufacturer that the supplier is responsible to me, and the manufacturer is responsible to the supplier. No one argued here. Rather we joked about the rigmarole.  After manufacturer left, I made it pretty clear to my supplier and his supplier (pretty good guys), that all this effort to demonstrate to the manufacturer that they will be liable, really serves him and that he should also pursue further expenses, his time wasted, etc. I agreed for his benefit to wait and see what the findings are before proceeding but only for a few days. I feel sorry for the supplier. He seems agreeable on everything. Pretty sure this will all work out. Fingers crossed. 
Oh, we have tarped the two bedrooms. Hopefully they will be ok.

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## Bloss

Let's hope it works out. Structafloor is generally fine - the lack of the edge sealing makes it seem to me as though this has been a batch sent out without being properly finished. You've probably read it, but might be worth reading their installation brochure again: http://www.chhwoodproducts.com.au/us...PGV4_10Jan.pdf - including the 10 year guarantee (materials & labour! - p.5). On p.13 it says 2mm is only over a supported edge - max 1mm elsewhere on the sheet. Also says the _underside_ should not be sealed - and that is always the case as the top can be sealed and at the very least is likely to be covered by water impermeable floor coverings - or simply a clear coating (which is an allowable finish!) - so I think the manufacturer guy needs to read his own doco! The suppliers are often caught in the middle, but they have good incentive to get the manufacturer to do the right thing (because the law says they warrant what they sell).

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## Gaza

so you are no closer to getting a resloution, i dont think that they will pay up for you sitting around waiting for them to work out a solution, so much for 3 months ok in weather. 
IMO you got to keep moving, i would finsh framing get to lock up sheet walls inside then get floor sander to run over the floor with 40G in the drum sander edge the edge of the floor then in rooms where the p/board is the finshed floor get 12mm HMR partcilebaord glue and screw this down, using heaps of construction adhesive then buff back with polyvac sander wack on 3 coats of clear it will look 10x better than a yellow tongue floor as the board is desner with smaller chips in it. 
as far as $$, i would ask for the dollar value of new yellow tongue plus say 2 guys 2 days to lay it plus $500 for sander and few hunderad for screws, the 12mm board should cost less so you can make a few bucks back that way. the 12mm board will be 2400x1200 sheets. 
asfar as being strong enough even if sanding off 3mm you still have a 30mm thick floor when you put the 12 on top, we have used 12mm in shop fitouts laid over concrete and clear coated looks very fancy with a lime wash, and nice s/steel decking screws

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## Bloss

Well no - IMO not a good idea to keep moving while responsibility has not yet been accepted. Definitely not trying some self-designed (however sensible it might seem) - the advice of the manufacturer on what steps should be taken will be critical for any further problems or there could be more dispute. Being _in the right_ doesn't really figure in these things - _managing it right_ does.

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## shauck

Totally agree with Bloss on this on. That's why I convinced Nik not to put a protective coating on any of the floor. She was going to do this even tho we had been told not to. Thankfully she listened to me, otherwise they would have walked away immediately and she'd have no recourse.  
I had looked up their brochure yesterday  and did find the relevant info you mention. Sent email to the supplier and Nik, with the info pasted in. Amazing how a rep from a company can know so little. (see below)  _Clear or Tinted Finishes 
Polyurethane gloss floor finishes can be applied to prepared surfaces to give an attractive cork-like appearance. 
Prepare the product as detailed under Sanding. Apply a minimum  three coats of polyurethane in accordance with the manufacturers  instruction. 
Lightly sand between coats and vacuum clean. 
Note: STRUCTAflor sheets may vary in colour and appearance. The variation will show through clear and tinted finishes. 
Following colour selection and mixing, apply one coat and allow to  dry. Lightly sand with 100 grit paper. Apply subsequent coats at  intervals not greater than 24 hours. The second coat may be clear or  tinted. 
Apply a minimum of three coats. The final coat should be clear with no stain added. 
Maintenance: 
Sweep regularly and occasionally clean with a damp cloth. Scatter  rugs or mats, placed in high traffic areas, will increase the life of  the coatings. Use felt pads beneath furniture to minimise surface  abrasion and scratching.   
Minor swelling that may result due to prolonged exposure to  weathering (resulting from the hygro-expansivity of particleboard) can  be removed by sanding following the enclosure of the building. The depth of material removed shall not exceed the following: 
(i) 1mm - Over the general panel area 
(ii) 2mm - Within 50mm of any supported edge_  
I really cant see this floor getting away with a 1mm sanding after building is enclosed down the track, let alone now. Maybe it would settle down once fully dry but that's hard to know at this point and I'm not going to trust the manufacturer unless they "guarantee" it will be ok.  
Gaza, your idea may be a good solution, after everything is resolved but if they are replacing the materials and paying for labour, I imagine it will be yellow tongue. This floor is not a 2 day job by the way. It's 4 separate floors, not just laying lots of uncut sheets. Also a wall needs to come back down. Also, if we re-do this as a platform floor, the dew will delay the process because if they don't allow us to cover it with tarps (which they are currently saying is a no no), the floor isn't dry till late morning. You can't glue a wet floor.  
Does the 12mm HMR particleboard need to be screwed to joists or just to sheets?  
Still wondering, if putting second layer of yellow tongue down after building enclosed, can it be screwed to bottom layer of flooring, along edges of room, instead of down to joist /blocking? Would screw most of the sheet, right through to joist still.

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## Bloss

Re: "Still wondering, if putting second layer of yellow tongue down after building enclosed, can it be screwed to bottom layer of flooring, along edges of room, instead of down to joist /blocking? Would screw most of the sheet, right through to joist still." 
As 'ringtail' said in an earlier post you can do a 'cut-in' floor after the framing is up and roof on which is what you are describing. Fiddly, but end result is fine - so long as the solution the manufacturer comes up with leaves a flat even surface for the framing to sit on.

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## shauck

The benefit of cut in floor would be a nice surface that hasn't had any weather on it yet. The downside (now that I'm thinking about it) would be the 2420 height of a couple of walls would be back to 2400. That would mean trimming plaster sheets. Messy and annoying. Also, have made back wall with door opening already but could fix that still.  
Think I'll stick with platform floor solution. Much simpler.  
Thanks for all your input. Feeling good... sort of.

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## intertd6

> With a cut in floor, I imagine you would noggin between the joists at  the ends of each room? Only problem with that would be the double sided  reflective foil. I can't think of a way to reinstate it. It's folded up  the sides of the joists (joists are blocked at ends already) and stapled from above. No access.  
> Would screws  (and glue of course) into the original floor be enough instead? The supplier has three layered yellow tongue floor done this way (to make up a level error)  
> I like  the idea, as it will mean a floor with no weather exposure at all. 
> Funny you mention tarping it up. I'll fill you all in on the meeting with the manufacturer, the supplier and his supplier. All three came yesterday.  
> As was to be expected, the manufacturer rep was a little cagey, not forthcoming with any definitive findings (not allowed). Will be sending all the information back to head office. The company is Carter Holt Harvey (not a cheap import). The product is Structafloor.  
> His questions were mostly relating to how long the floor had been down, when it was delivered, etc. Fortunately, I keep detailed time sheets with all the work I do each day, for my own record (thanks to my first chippy boss). I was able to show dates and prove that it had been down a short time and had not been rained on until the day before the problem really became obvious.  He brought out his little moisture meter. Sooo impressive. Between 6-8 % generally. Obviously, with the sun beating down on it, it would have dried out. Besides the issue is the resulting effect on surface of sheets caused by the moisture from rain and dew. 
> There was long discussion on the wheetbix-like nature of the floor in general and that the coating is inadequate. He explained a previous scenario where similar problem had happened and the builder finished the build and sanded and he had not heard from them again (assuming all ok). I asked him if it was as bad, he said no. I also said would he guarantee this floor to last until the build is finished and for a sanding to work. He c 
> It was also discussed that only 2mm can be removed from floor at time of sanding. I pointed out that with all the bumps, that was unlikely to be possible, especially where bubbles appear (only on a couple or sheets), the floor surface will just be ripped away. Also the floor may get worse before it's covered. Too speculative for me. Again no guarantee.  
> He also said no tarps can be used to protect the surface until the roof is on. He also said it shouldn't be tarped on site. He also asked if it was a full pack, which it was, as it came wrapped!!! Hmm wrapped product from the manufacturer. Bit of a contradiction here.  
> ...

  regards inter

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## Gaza

i reckon there get out of jail free card is going to be that you had 3mm gaps between sheets not 1.5mm as spec. 
how did you end up with such big gaps, did the first row get out of sqaure? 
more than 2 days how many m2 is the area, 2 guys can lay 100m2 a day without even pushing it,

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## shauck

Gaza, I'm sure others who do this all the time are faster than me but I probably charge a lot less than them so it evens out and I'm not slow. Every second or third sheet had to be measured and cut. Also fitting floor insluation each day of flooring. One level at a time. Just looked back at time sheets and it took us 3.5 days to insulate and lay floor, which would have had some intrusions as well. Nik has never done this before so actually it was more like me doing 2/3 of the work. It's about 120m2 all up. I would say, the next floor would go down faster.  
Re-read my post  
"Also able to *point out gaps between parallel sheets,  both full length* (small part of room), *tight in the corners and approx  3mm gap along the middle.* The tolerance is supposed to be half that,  1.5mm. 
We made every effort to get sheets to have minimal gaps (string line on first row), but it was impossible. This also slowed down the floor laying as we fussed over it.  
Inter, when the sheets arrived, I helped unload them and did point out to the supplier that some of the sheets seemed different (irregular colouring) than what I'd seen before. He didn't seem to think that was a problem. He remembers my queries. No problem there.  
Other than that irregular colouring, nothing else was noticed at the time, the roughness wan't obvious until moisture had gotten to it and made it bumpy. You don't run you're hand over every inch of every sheet. The minimal wax on edges seemed a borderline issue. I thought they were just ok. The offcuts had been put under the floor, near the edge. Admittedly, I can't be 100% sure they haven't been weather affected.  
I had never expected an issue like this with such a product, designed not to be a problem in rain. I'm no expert in quality control but I've not heard of a single other incidence of this amongst all those I know. Not even the owner of the local hardware has seen this before and he supplies it to local builders. Nothing online about it either. Only the manufacturer had knowledge of a similar incident, not as bad tho.

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## ringtail

Just so you know, I did some work on a new(under construction) house where the bare yellow tongue floor went right under in the flood. The only place it ridged up was on the joins. The builder just ran the planer over the joins and in the week that I was there I noticed no ill effects of it been fully submerged. The floor was still bare when I was there and I was mainly doing fixout so spent a lot of time staring at the floor.

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## shauck

I certainly think it's a fine product, under normal circumstances. 
So.... drum roll.  
They are paying up for the lot!! Sheets will be here on Thursday. Very cool.  
Still haven't gotten a yes or no, can I fix the edges of new sheets to the existing floor? I know that with other products, the brochure says you can, fixing at closer spacings. Would this be okay? really don't want to rip out insulation and block the 1st  bedroom floor (walls are up) or remove the walls.  
Cheers for all input guys, been a great help.

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## Bloss

Great news - but only what you are entitled to! I can't see why you can't lay over the top - so long as you can get it flat enough with a sand. If it turns out and you end up with a ~40mm floor it'll be better thermal efficiency too and quieter - albeit a lot of buggering around to get there.

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## ringtail

> I certainly think it's a fine product, under normal circumstances. 
> So.... drum roll.  
> They are paying up for the lot!! Sheets will be here on Thursday. Very cool.  
> Still haven't gotten a yes or no, can I fix the edges of new sheets to the existing floor? I know that with other products, the brochure says you can, fixing at closer spacings. Would this be okay? really don't want to rip out insulation and block the 1st  bedroom floor (walls are up) or remove the walls.  
> Cheers for all input guys, been a great help.

  
Result ! I reckon, provided its flat, go the ultraset and screw @ 100 ctrs on the edges and you will be sweet

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## shauck

Cheers guys. Will be laying on top. I suppose the good side of all this will be a well insulated floor. Will also get pro floor sander. Told Nik, I wasn't keen on her or I doing this particular sand. I don't mind if she wants to do the final sand on the finished floor but not this one. Will do the 100 ctrs on edges but Nik already bought heaps of construction adhesive. Maybe I can get her to go back and change that.

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## ringtail

> Cheers guys. Will be laying on top. I suppose the good side of all this will be a well insulated floor. Will also get pro floor sander. Told Nik, I wasn't keen on her or I doing this particular sand. I don't mind if she wants to do the final sand on the finished floor but not this one. Will do the 100 ctrs on edges but Nik already bought heaps of construction adhesive. Maybe I can get her to go back and change that.

  I think that would be a good idea. I had to remove some wall sheet (mdf) the other week and the construction adhesive had let go. All I had to do to remove what was left on the studs was run the chisel up lightly and it flaked off like varnish. The ultraset is made for flooring

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## shauck

Cool.

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## Bloss

I'm with ringtail on this one . . .

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## shauck

We changed to ultraset. Only thing is, the plastic plunger thingy on the sausage gun broke after the first sausage. I think I pushed a little too hard to get the last of it out of the sausage. 1hrs drive there and back to fix it so we just kept going, Nik squeezing it straight from the sausage. Gotta love it.

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## Gaza

> We changed to ultraset. Only thing is, the plastic plunger thingy on the sausage gun broke after the first sausage. I think I pushed a little too hard to get the last of it out of the sausage. 1hrs drive there and back to fix it so we just kept going, Nik squeezing it straight from the sausage. Gotta love it.

  been there done that we just cut a disc out of thin ply with jig saw, problem solved

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## shauck

Yeah. Bodgily fixed it yesterday.

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## Bloss

> Yeah. Bodgily fixed it yesterday.

  When did 'Bodgily' start workin' with ya . . . thought he was with that flooring manufacturer.    :Biggrin:  :Wink:

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## shauck

When did 'Bodgily' start workin' with ya . . . thought he was with that flooring manufacturer.    :Biggrin:  :Wink:   he he.  
More on the sausage gun. It got glue all over it and now cant get the nozzle end unscrewed. Had to take the trigger end off and push the empty sausage back thru by sticking a bit of wire down the nozzle.

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