# Forum Home Renovation Plumbing  Shower mixer install - best practice?

## Vernonv

Hi All,
I'm looking for info on the best way to install a shower mixed. In particular I would like to know what is the preferred method to use to connect the copper pipes to and from the mixer.  
For example - Is it acceptable (or best practice) to used compression fittings? Does the mixer need to be installed in such a way that it can be removed for maintenance / replacement? 
Any input greatly appreciated.

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## Gooner

Firstly, I am not a plumber, so I can only speak from my own experiences. 
I recently installed a shower mixer. I too asked the same questions about installing it.  
Some people (including plumbers) have stated that they braze their copper connections into the mixer. Personally I do not think this is a good idea at all for two reasons. Firstly, it voids your warranty. Secondly, if you need to remove it, it will be difficult. Also difficult to re-install a new one. 
Personally I went for flared fittings. I do not trust compression fittings in walls. I have had a fair bit of experience with flared fittings and have never had a problem. Can't say the same for compression fittings. Only flared fittings can be used for gas lines, so this tells you something as to which is more leak proof. 
The other thing I did was screw (not nail) the mixer to the noggin. That way if I ever have to remove the mixer I can. If you nail it in you will have a heck of a time removing it in future. 
Finally, I made the hole in the wall big enough to access the mixer if need be. Still need to work out the best way of sealing and waterproofing the hole. The mixer cover will cover the hole up. Thinking of siliconing the back of the mixer cover to waterproof the hole in the wall. I also heard that plumbing/bathroom suppliers carry a range of rubber seals that can fir around these holes to water proof them. I haven't investigated this just yet. 
The other side of the wall where the mixer is installed is a bedroom. Therefore if I ever need good access to the plumbing my plan is to go through the bedroom wall as plasterboard is a heck of a lot easier and inexpensive to replace and paint than knocking out tiles and villaboard and then fixing it all up. 
My 2 cents.

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## wonderplumb

I screw male threads (No 3) into the body of the mixer using teflon and a smidge of Loctite 567 but make the pieces up with tails so your not welding too close to the body or your joints. Compression fittings of any kind shouldnt be used inside a wall, and yes this includes flared fittings, unions etc!

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## Vernonv

Thanks guys. 
Two very different answers, but that's good. 
Wonderplumb I take it that if you needed to replace a mixer it would mean some fairly substantial work (ie opening up the wall)? ... have you ever needed to replace a mixer or are they pretty robust?

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## wonderplumb

I had to replace a couple over the years due to inavailability of parts but these were a good 20yrs old and unfortunately had to remove tiles etc, id hate to remove one that was rendered into a brick wall! Unless there is a manufacturing fault which you would hopefully find on testing before you closed the wall, the only thing that goes wrong is the cartridge and you can usually service these without having to replace it. Personally I dont like them.

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## wonderplumb

Oh and the code states they  must have their own isolation valves, just to throw a spanner in the works!

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## Vernonv

> Oh and the code states they must have their own isolation valves, just to throw a spanner in the works!

  So does a water valve that's located after the pump count as an isolation valve?  :Wink 1:  It will isolate the mixer from the pump and water tanks  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):  :Biggrin: .

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## wonderplumb

As long as you can isolate it from both hot and cold and still haveall your other fixtures running.

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## Vernonv

> As long as you can isolate it from both hot and cold and still haveall your other fixtures running.

  Bugger  :Annoyed:  ... what do you normally do?

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