# Forum Home Renovation Cladding  Cladding fibro shack

## finbaba13

Hello 
I was hoping someone might be able to able to fill some blanks for me about cladding.  
Im looking to buy an old fibro/asbestos beach shack and to reclad outside to modernise it. Im hoping to use a combination of corrugated colourbond and weatherboard. 
 Is this easy to do or should I be paying a builder to do it, are there any DIY guides anyone could recommend? 
Looking at the picture I have attached would it be straightforward to reclad around the existing windows and get a good finish using the materials I suggested, id like to keep costs down so would want to avoid new windows if possible. 
 Are there any other key considerations, breathable vapour barrier? What is this? 
 Where is it best to source cladding materials from? 
 Any Input would be great.

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## finbaba13

Pic included this time

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## METRIX

Are you intending on ripping the existing Asbestos off so you can insulate the walls, and also install a vapor barrier to protect what's left of the timber frame ?

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## OBBob

How big is it? Do you have to modernise the inside? It may be worth considering if it's worth keeping our just starting again.

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## phild01

It's been said here before that is not allowable to overlay existing asbestos with plasterboard.  Would it follow that exterior cladding cannot be used to cover existing asbestos sheet?  Of course cladding companies have done this in the past.  Curious!

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## METRIX

> It's been said here before that is not allowable to overlay existing asbestos with plasterboard.  Would it follow that exterior cladding cannot be used to cover existing asbestos sheet?  Of course cladding companies have done this in the past.  Curious!

  I would have it all removed, if not only for the reason to not be penetrating the existing Asbestos with fixings for the new chosen product, but also to have the ability to redo electrics / plumbing any frame repairs as required, and adding wall insulation / vapor barrier. 
I have seen plenty of cladding over existing asbestos sheeting

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## finbaba13

cheers or the response. Main reason is to get rid of asbestos for good, modernising and insulating is also desirable.

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## finbaba13

> How big is it? Do you have to modernise the inside? It may be worth considering if it's worth keeping our just starting again.

  Thanks for the reply. Yes I'm intending to re gyprock the whole interior. Don't want to start again as planning permission is a nightmare whee it is located. A building inspection has said it is structurally sound

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## OBBob

That is a gate point. Sounds like a nice spot.

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## toooldforthis

pretty much what the others have said.
remove asbestos. you can then rewire, insulate, vapor barrier/sarking. reclad.
one thing to keep in mind with the re-cladding is colourbond and weather boards are thicker than the asbestos sheets. ~20mm versus a few mm. so this will will affect where you abut windows etc - can be got round with packing out architraves etc. You might want to consider battens over the sarking to create an air gap for insulation, this will push your cladding even further out from where it is now.
you are pretty much opening up a can of worms, but don't be put off - can be tackled if you plan ahead and understand how things go together.

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## toooldforthis

some pics. 
with battens  
or you could leave the battens out.   
the battens can help fix the cladding.
for instance if you run the weatherboards/colourbond vertical you might want horizontal battens cause the existing stud frame might not suit (or you could put in some extra noggins)

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## finbaba13

> pretty much what the others have said.
> remove asbestos. you can then rewire, insulate, vapor barrier/sarking. reclad.
> one thing to keep in mind with the re-cladding is colourbond and weather boards are thicker than the asbestos sheets. ~20mm versus a few mm. so this will will affect where you abut windows etc - can be got round with packing out architraves etc. You might want to consider battens over the sarking to create an air gap for insulation, this will push your cladding even further out from where it is now.
> you are pretty much opening up a can of worms, but don't be put off - can be tackled if you plan ahead and understand how things go together.

  Thanks. thats really helpful feedback. So essentially you would remove the architrave and insert a spacer (not the corrrect technical term im sure) so that it sits correctly with the cladding?  
This would be cheaper and easier than replacing windows i assume?

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## phild01

> Thanks. thats really helpful feedback. So essentially you would remove the architrave and insert a spacer (not the corrrect technical term im sure) so that it sits correctly with the cladding?  
> This would be cheaper and easier than replacing windows i assume?

  I would get yourself a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade and cut through the nails holding the window in place, when you do the re-cladding.  Push the window out the required distance and re-nail in place.  You will need to remove all architraves inside and outside.  Take care with the flashings, or remove window completely if not flashed properly.  Doing this is much easier than trying to overcome problems with the bottom window sill and will give a proper appearance.
Reserve the packing out operation (what you referred as 'spacer') for the inside when you reline with plasterboard.

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## SilentButDeadly

If the windows and their frames are still serviceable (and would expect to be so for another decade) then I'd do as Phil suggests and remove and refit the window to suit the new cladding.   
If they are damaged or only partially serviceable in some way then I'd either replace them with new windows with reveals deep enough to suit the new cladding. Or leave them in position, re-flash them with the new cladding in mind and simply clad up to the new flashing.  The result may not be that pretty but it will be cheaper than new windows...

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## finbaba13

> If the windows and their frames are still serviceable (and would expect to be so for another decade) then I'd do as Phil suggests and remove and refit the window to suit the new cladding.   
> If they are damaged or only partially serviceable in some way then I'd either replace them with new windows with reveals deep enough to suit the new cladding. Or leave them in position, re-flash them with the new cladding in mind and simply clad up to the new flashing.  The result may not be that pretty but it will be cheaper than new windows...

   

> I would get yourself a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade and cut through the nails holding the window in place, when you do the re-cladding.  Push the window out the required distance and re-nail in place.  You will need to remove all architraves inside and outside.  Take care with the flashings, or remove window completely if not flashed properly.  Doing this is much easier than trying to overcome problems with the bottom window sill and will give a proper appearance.
> Reserve the packing out operation (what you referred as 'spacer') for the inside when you reline with plasterboard.

  Thanks that's awesome feedback, ill definitely raise that with the builder! He might even think I know what I'm talking about  :Redface: )

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## Moondog55

And I'd highly recommend battening out over the new sarking/wall wrap.
it makes a huge difference to summer comfort
have you considered re-cladding with a cement based sheeting to keep the look of the old shack [ and just possibly] keeping the councils rates down a tiny bit or using a fire rated cladding just in case?

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## finbaba13

> And I'd highly recommend battening out over the new sarking/wall wrap.
> it makes a huge difference to summer comfort
> have you considered re-cladding with a cement based sheeting to keep the look of the old shack [ and just possibly] keeping the councils rates down a tiny bit or using a fire rated cladding just in case?

  Hi Moondog,  
Yes Im hearing you re the battens, would 10mm suffice or go to 20mm?  
I have considered keeping the fibro, but ive always wanted a modern corrugated shack in the forest, its been a bit of a dream so to speak.  
The shack is located just down the great ocean road from you in Geelong so bush fires are an issue but to be honest, if this places goes up no amount of cladding is going to save it. I would just start from scratch.  
Have you got any reccomendations for cladding providers/installers in the Geelong area? I'm keen to have a crack myself but not sure if Ive got the skills to do it properly. \ 
thanks for the input

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## Moondog55

Well as the cheapest battening material looks like rough sawn TP and 2*1 (~50*25) that solved our decision making easily enough
It is an easy enough job if it doesn't need to be perfect but we haven't yet quite got to the cladding stage so I can't make a recommendation

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## phild01

> Well as the cheapest battening material looks like rough sawn TP and 2*1 (~50*25) that solved our decision making easily enough
> It is an easy enough job if it doesn't need to be perfect but we haven't yet quite got to the cladding stage so I can't make a recommendation

  Maybe consider the corrosive effects of wet treated pine on cladding nails, as well as shrinkage.  I find ripping plywood into strips fairly cost effective.

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## Moondog55

Good point, but those TP screws with the square drive are good and cheap and strong

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## phild01

> Good point, but those TP screws with the square drive are good and cheap and strong

  Love the square drive.

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## mugatu

Here's ours we've done something similar to recently http://www.renovateforum.com/f176/3b...d-reno-113386/

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## finbaba13

> Here's ours we've done something similar to recently http://www.renovateforum.com/f176/3b...d-reno-113386/

  That looks great, good job. A couple of questions, if you don't mind.  
What do you estimate the cost to replace with weatherboards? 
Did you keep the original windows? If so, how did you go about fitting the weatherboards around them?

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## Moondog55

Gal will almost certainly be cheaper than new weatherboards

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## mugatu

No problems, I found the invoice for the materials. The below = $4349.00 Inc  
1150LM of Baltic Weatherboard 1150 LM Square Edged Primed 175mm
2 x Cover Up Wall Wrap 2 EA 2740mm x 30m 
15 x Earthwool Batts R2.5HP 15 EA 1160x430 
and yes left the original windows in as they were aluminium and good condition. We put new flashing (think that's what it's called so the water doesn't seep back in to the house) and butted the boards straight in to the existing frame of the window.

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## ringtail

> I have seen plenty of cladding over existing asbestos sheeting

  
Me too. In my house there are a few walls I've sheeted over. If it's illegal to do it now it certainly never used to be. The entire ceiling has been battened down and resheeted. I'd rather do that than disturb it and wear 70 years of roof cavity dust inside the house.

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