# Forum Home Renovation Decking  Nailing decking: by hand or by nailgun?

## aslsw

After lurking around these forums to get some suggestions and advice, I finally got around to building an extension to our professionally built deck. The posts, bearers and joists are all up, and now its time to lay the Merbau decking. 
I have booked a nailgun for the weekend, but now Im having second thoughts. You see, the professional used a nailgun, and a fair proportion of the decking has splits in it. After only 3 months, the decking already looks old from water in the splits and all of the heads are well below the decking level which I guess will result in premature deterioration. 
So, the other option is to do it by hand. But everyone else says I must be mad to even think about it. 
Which is best  nailgun or by hand? Im pretty fit, so its not like I cant do it, its just the time factor. I figure its about probably about 600 nails all up. 
If I do this by hand, which are the best nails to use? I bought a pack of 50mm, stainless steel nails with the dome head and the screw shank (not sure of the technical terms) to just get a couple of boards in place. Are these the right ones to use? 
Finally, do I need to use some sort of glue beneath the decking? I read somewhere else that using a glue provides a bed for the decking, which minimises movement and creaking. 
Thanks everyone. Im impressed by the results so far, but its mainly thanks to the great advice people offer.

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## The Bleeder

Hi Aslsw, 
Glue no, it won't do antything for you except a great amount of pain if you have to replace a board. 
Since you don't want the merbau to split then a nail gun is not the implement to use. No splits = pre-drill the merbau for the nails then hand nail and punch them down. A lot of effort. Why don't you just screw the deck down as this will be a lot less effort than the hand nail option. 
You didn't say what the joists are. Hardwood or treated pine.

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## johnc

Our last deck we undercoated the joists and bearers and put a barrier between the decking and joists to minimize water ingress to the timber below which destroyed the previous deck through rot. The entire deck was predrilled and nailed and punched by hand. It is neat and still looks good 15 years later with no rot to be seen and no splits anywhere. I dislike the decking screws and the damage through splitting caused by nailers. It was worth the effort and quite frankly once you get into the swing of it it doesn't take all that long. With practice three hits is all you need to seat the nail and one with the nail punch and the jobs done. When the times your own its free so it doesn't matter spending the extra effort for a decent result.

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## ausdesign

Nail Gun is a definite no go. ( to stress the point .  . don't use one; don't even think about using one; don't believe anyone that say's it's OK; If you have a mother-in-law, sell her before you contemplate using a nail gun.)
S.S. screws are arguably the best, but at around up to 24 cents a pop can eat into the budget fast. Twist shank gal. nails will do the job & the length depends upon the joist type ( i.e. softwood or hardwood).

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## droog

Only 600 nails, not even worth getting the nail gun out.
My veranda is T&G Jarrah all predrilled and hand nailed, 1800 + nails.  
Couple of mates with hammers should knock it over in an afternoon and only cost you a slab. 
Regards Dave

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## aslsw

OK, thanks for the good advice everyone. 
Looks like hand nailing is the way to go - I'm not that worried, bit of carpet for the knees, lots of podcasts to catch up on. 
The joists are treated pine - is 50mm long enough? 
I just bought a small pack to tack a couple of the long lengths in for the step down off the main deck. Easy to pull out if they are wrong, but I guess I will be down at Bunnings first thing on Saturday morning to buy a big box of them.

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## Bloss

> OK, thanks for the good advice everyone. 
> Looks like hand nailing is the way to go - I'm not that worried, bit of carpet for the knees, lots of podcasts to catch up on. 
> The joists are treated pine - is 50mm long enough? 
> I just bought a small pack to tack a couple of the long lengths in for the step down off the main deck. Easy to pull out if they are wrong, but I guess I will be down at Bunnings first thing on Saturday morning to buy a big box of them.

  Gal 2.8mm x 65mm IMO for TP joists through 19mm merbau - 50mm can be OK, but will need re-punching within a year. Pre-drill with 2.5mm - set the drill to pre-drill only the merbau so about 22-25mm max. Punch down afterwards - slabs & BBQ only after punching completed . . .  :Wink:

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## ringtail

Gal or SS 2.8 x 65's for pine, twist shanks mate. I have gunned 1 deck and never again. You can get good knee pads cheap as from the green shed. The gals are great and cheap but the ss look better but cost a bloody fortune, ( compared to gal)

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## allyrabbit

Have just completed a deck, and hand nailed.. put three boards on at a time, to get the nails all in perfect alignment... no to a nail gun...  
goodluck!

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## ringtail

You can get away with nails in  straight line into pine joists but its a big no no in HWD. Offset them otherwise the joist will split up the nail line, even if pre - drilled.

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## stevoh741

use dome heads and you will regret it down the track. For the bit extra ss screw sunk 2mm below the deck surface make for easy sanding down the track. Also nails have a habit of working themselves loose overtime. Put something like maltoid over top of your joists before fixing decking to it if you want them to last.

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## Stan 101

stick with the nails on the extension section. It would out of place to have the new area screwed down with the original nailed. Use a 65mm nail and keep an eye on them.  
Cheers,

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## stevoh741

> stick with the nails on the extension section. It would out of place to have the new area screwed down with the original nailed. Use a 65mm nail and keep an eye on them.  
> Cheers,

  Your right, didn't read well enough to see it was an extension of previously nailed deck.

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