# Forum Home Renovation General Odds & Sods  Fastening a powerpoint to tiles

## Weeza

Need some advise on how to secure a 4 point power point to wall tiles. 
I have used the plug things but the power point is still wobbly. What am I missing or doing wrong? 
Thanks  :Confused:

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## Bros

Probably the wrong side plug for the screw.

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## Gaza

Plasterboard wall? 
Flush plate or got backing to power point   
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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## Random Username

Generally the cheap plastic plug things are utter rubbish.   
If you've got a standard powerpoint size cutoutout, you need one of these to drop into the wall cavity: Block Mounting Hpm Mounting Clip D711 I/N 4331039 | Bunnings Warehouse

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## phild01

> Generally the cheap plastic plug things are utter rubbish.   
> If you've got a standard powerpoint size cutoutout, you need one of these to drop into the wall cavity: Block Mounting Hpm Mounting Clip D711 I/N 4331039 | Bunnings Warehouse

  Hate these mounts with a passion.  It is possible to insert the standard L bracket through the same size wall hole, and side screw from outside the wall cavity to a stud...much much better.

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## FrodoOne

> Hate these mounts with a passion.  It is possible to insert the standard L bracket through the same size wall hole, and side screw from outside the wall cavity to a stud...much much better.

  A Four Gang socket outlet should simply mount onto the mountings for a single/two gang outlet - assuming that there was one there before.
Apart from this, four gang socket outlets are provided with another four holes at the corners through which wood screws can be inserted into suitable plastic plugs drilled into the tiles behind.
If these fixings have been used and are wobbly, they are not fitting properly into the holes drilled into the tiles.  This could be repaired by re-inserting the plugs (or new plugs) into the tiles. after first applying a suitable epoxy resin mixture and allowing this to set.  
However, it is possible (with some difficulty) to "post" a standard Stud Bracket through the cutout for a socket outlet and fix it onto a stud.  Of course, the cutout MUST be at the appropriate distance from the stud - otherwise the opening will need to be enlarged to such an extent that the outlet attached to it will not cover the hole. (I realize that this may not be likely with a four gang outlet.) 
After "posting" the stud bracket through the cutout (which may require some manipulation but it WILL fit if the cutout is "full size") it must not be allowed to fall into the cavity, so you would first need to attach it to a "string".
It must then be manipulated into position, the position in which to drill marked, the bracket allowed to fall out of the way (but still held on the string) and a drill inserted through the cutout to drill the hole for the first screw - the centre screw is the easiest, as the stud bracket has a slot at its centre.  It may be necessary to use a short drill bit extension on the end of the drill, because the chuck may not fit through the cutout. 
After drilling the first hole, the bracket can then be returned to the required position and the first screw inserted into the drilled hole. (Probably a 15 mm 8 gauge self tapping screw is best for the purpose.) You will need to secure the screw onto the end of the screwdriver by using either an appropriate screwdriver designed with spring clamps for the screw head, a screwdriver with a strong magnetic tip or something like "blu-tack" on a normal screwdriver. (You may loose a few screws at this point.) 
After fixing the bracket with one screw, try to drill and get at least one other screw into one of either the upper or lower holes provided in the bracket for this purpose.  Which one is usually determined by the angle at which you can hold the drill (and extension) concerned and anything outside the cutout which may impede your angle of access - like a bench top, or the floor. 
As you may guess, I have often done this. 
Good Luck.

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## phild01

:Arrow Up:  the string can be useful if first time trying this.  There is no need to pre-drill the holes, this will really complicate the procedure.  A torch will guide your magnetic screw bit with a sharp 20mm gal screw (button head or even a plasterboard type screw) to the mount hole.  Pressure the drill, press the button and you are done.

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## FrodoOne

> the string can be useful if first time trying this.  There is no need to pre-drill the holes, this will really complicate the procedure.  A torch will guide your magnetic screw bit with a sharp 20mm gal screw (button head or even a plasterboard type screw) to the mount hole.  Pressure the drill, press the button and you are done.

  This assumes that one HAS a magnetic screw bit.  Also, it will then be necessary to hold the stud bracket in position at the same time. If using fingers, this may result in injury.

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## phild01

> This assumes that one HAS a magnetic screw bit.  Also, it will then be necessary to hold the stud bracket in position at the same time. If using fingers, this may result in injury.

  Left hand fingers grips bracket against plasterboard and right hand drives the screw.  Never hurt myself doing this but the driver bit needs to grip the screw.  Some bits and screws can have enough holding without the magnetism, but dexterity might be the key.

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## wozzzzza

to me a lot of information is missing from the original post and we seem to be guessing.
need to ask what sort of wall is it the tiles are attached to, brick or plasterboard or cement board, fixings are different.
and also what type of fittings are currently being used that make it wobbly. "the plug things" to me are WTF is he talking about? what plugs?? lots of plugs.
 leads me to think he may need the services of a qualified electrician as a loose power point is dangerous and so is lack of knowledge when dealing with these sorts of things.

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## Weeza

Firstly I would like to thank you all so much for your replies, I can't believe your help.  
We eventually managed to get it done. Sorry, I didn't explain the situation well. I was in a panic and didn't do a good job of explaining.  
I feel I owe you a proper explanation, so here goes.  
I had/have a handyman doing some work for me. He was doing the tiling in the kitchen and I guess he didn't remember to transfer the measurements of where the powerpoints go. The tiles are the 300 x 600 and covered the whole area where the cut out in the gyprock were, so he guessed where they may be. Anyway, he cut the holes in the tiles and they didn't line up with the cut out in the gyprock, which had the proper mounting plate there already. They were the good steel ones, not the flimsy ones from Bunnings. Because the holes didn't line up he couldn't use the existing mounting plate as they were fastened to the frame. He then tried knocking the mounting plate out with a chisel and hammer and bent them both. Then he tried to just attach the powerpoints with the wall plugs. They were not solid and I asked him to remove them and use proper plates which I brought. He seemed to have trouble getting them to grab as he also knocked out the gyprock from the back of the tile while trying to remove the original mounting plates. He eventually managed to fit the new plates upside down and the powerpoints are now secured tightly.  
I know that he should have done the job right in the first place. I wish he did as there are other issues with other things he is doing, like fitting the ducted rangehood, but I can't help but feel for him as he is suffering from depression. Fingers crossed that I will somehow be able to fix the issue with the rangehood. 
So again, thank you all for your wonderful help. Your replies gave me the information I needed to let him know I knew what I was talking about and he listened to what I told him about some of your advise here. 
Really appreciate your time and help.

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## FrodoOne

> Firstly I would like to thank you all so much for your replies, I can't believe your help.  
> We eventually managed to get it done. Sorry, I didn't explain the situation well. I was in a panic and didn't do a good job of explaining.  
> I feel I owe you a proper explanation, so here goes.  
> I had/have a handyman doing some work for me. He was doing the tiling in the kitchen and I guess he didn't remember to transfer the measurements of where the powerpoints go. The tiles are the 300 x 600 and covered the whole area where the cut out in the gyprock were, so he guessed where they may be. Anyway, he cut the holes in the tiles and they didn't line up with the cut out in the gyprock, which had the proper mounting plate there already. They were the good steel ones, not the flimsy ones from Bunnings. Because the holes didn't line up he couldn't use the existing mounting plate as they were fastened to the frame. He then tried knocking the mounting plate out with a chisel and hammer and bent them both. Then he tried to just attach the powerpoints with the wall plugs. They were not solid and I asked him to remove them and use proper plates which I brought. He seemed to have trouble getting them to grab as he also knocked out the gyprock from the back of the tile while trying to remove the original mounting plates. He eventually managed to fit the new plates upside down and the powerpoints are now secured tightly.  
> I know that he should have done the job right in the first place. I wish he did as there are other issues with other things he is doing, like fitting the ducted rangehood, but I can't help but feel for him as he is suffering from depression. Fingers crossed that I will somehow be able to fix the issue with the rangehood. 
> So again, thank you all for your wonderful help. Your replies gave me the information I needed to let him know I knew what I was talking about and he listened to what I told him about some of your advise here. 
> Really appreciate your time and help.

  I would like to thank YOU "Weeza" for your response and fuller explanation of the problem and its solution. 
While I cannot speak for others who replied to your posting on this site, I suspect that most of them would be as greatly interested in how the job proceeded and how the problem was resolved as I was. 
Unfortunately, a great many postings "trail off" with no feedback as to how the problem was eventually resolved - if at all. 
Thank you and good luck in the future.

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## Weeza

> I would like to thank YOU "Weeza" for your response and fuller explanation of the problem and its solution. 
> While I cannot speak for others who replied to your posting on this site, I suspect that most of them would be as greatly interested in how the job proceeded and how the problem was resolved as I was. 
> Unfortunately, a great many postings "trail off" with no feedback as to how the problem was eventually resolved - if at all. 
> Thank you and good luck in the future.

  You are most welcome FrodoOne, the least I could do was to explain. I do need all the luck I can get with this job though. It is really hard to try and explain to the handyman that things are meant to fit into place without having to band the life out of them. If I didn't become friends with him and his wife, I would have told him not to finish the job. Can't do that now, they are such lovely people. I guess I have to cross my fingers and hope for the best. I try and do what I can but I don't have the strength like you guys. I have helped with the installation of the kitchen as much as I could and I love doing it. I just wish it could get finished, he started the kitchen in January and we are still going. I am slowly going mad with the constant mess in my house, not to mention the things that aren't quite right. 
Anyway, thank you again for your help and for your kind wishes.  :Smilie:

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