# Forum Home Renovation Doors, Windows, Architraves & Skirts  Fixing door frame to solid brick wall

## Micky013

Hey, 
I need to build the door frames for my extension and fix them to the double brick wall. 
They will be 2.8 high x 260 wide x 42 thick - what is the best way to fix to the solid walls?  
Do people still wedge timber in the cavity between the bricks and nail to that or should I spaghetti and screw? 
Thanks in advance! 
Michael

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## intertd6

Wedging timber in the cavity has never been a good method, steel countersunk headed expanding fasteners are what you want.
regards inter

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## Micky013

Yeah the existing part of the house has all cracks running from where the wedges are in the frame. Any chance you can post a pic of what those fasteners look like? Never heard of them. 
Thanks!

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## David.Elliott

The timber in the cavity was fixed to the frame first and used in addition to ties that were laid between the courses, maybe 3-4 each side, and the bricks were laid up to the timber batten.
Actually a great way to install doorframes, if the pain I have had to go through to get doorframes out that were fixed this way is anything to go by.
But it only works if the battens and ties are fixed to the doorframe before it is "stood up"  and then the brickie bricks it in...

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## Micky013

Cheers david - that makes sense.

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## intertd6

> Yeah the existing part of the house has all cracks running from where the wedges are in the frame. Any chance you can post a pic of what those fasteners look like? Never heard of them. 
> Thanks!

  dynabolts.
regards inter

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## phild01

> dynabolts.
> regards inter

  If I'm correct, the countersunk (as mentioned) philips head type of dynabolt.

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## Micky013

Great. Thanks guys!

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## Micky013

Hi guys.  
The bricks im fixing to are not solids but have the holes in them. Im worried that im gonna end up putting a million holes trying to get a good fix with a dyna bolt.  
Can i fix in the mortar joint against two solid bricks or is there an alternative method for these types of situations? 
Thanks heaps!

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## toooldforthis

what about wedging/glueing some timber in the cavity and nailing to that?
be careful if screwing you don't pull/warp the frame out of plumb.

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## Micky013

I will be packing behind any fixing. I thought about that option but dont want it to pull later. Dunno.... 
Cheers mate

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## David.Elliott

No problem.
I've done this lots of time successfully. I just use the big Dynas with the orange plastic expanding bit...not the metal ones they have a much smaller 'bite" area and tend to "chew" out the bricks with slamming and vibrations. The plastic isolates the metal screw from the brick. 
Maybe 150mm or even longer at 10mm diameter, and three per side. Don't try and be a samson doing them up is another key point...
Lets face it todays' doors really don't weigh anything, so the frame is not really doing a lot of work.. 
Planned well you can get these under the door closing strip, so no fill and sanding required... 
Try to avoid the mortar is my advice (FWIW) as you will most probably separate the bricks.
make sure you have your straight edge to hand and some packing pieces too, Toooldforthis mentioned bending the frame, and it happens...don't ask me how I know that...   Just reread original post...you have no width quoted, and are giving 2800mm as a height, so are you hanging doors off these or just framing the opening for aesthetics? If just framing the opening spaghetti and 4" nails are the go...

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## Micky013

Hi mate. Thanks for the detailed info - sounds really good. Width is 400mm by 42 thick wrc. The walls are 350 thick double brick with additional plinth course hence the width. I may need two side by side to avoid cupping etc?

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## David.Elliott

I was inquiring about the width of the opening, not the thickness of the walls.
Are in fact hanging doors of the timber you are putting in. The 2800 high opening is pretty big.
Pics'd be great to make sure we're all on the same page...

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## Micky013

Opening is 2.8 x 1.7 dbl french door. Door frame material is 400 x 42 wrc. There is 10mm clearance around the jam for plumbing etc

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## David.Elliott

Now it all makes sense.
Just did something along this line.
My opening was 2700 x 4000. Dble french doors and sidelight windows.
Framed in meranti, picked the lot up from salvage yard for $1500.00. 
So the orange dynas will be the go. In my case i was able to get battens at just the right size wedged into both cavities (each side) and the the door frame was placed in between. There were three sections in my case, 1 each sidelight and then the door frame was placed inbetween, and fixed off, top, bottom and to the the sidelights.
I also used a couple of dynas at each end along with the battens in the cavity.
Two other Q's. 
Is the wrc possibly a bit soft? My gut says it might be.
And what are you using as a lintel, or was it an existing door opening?

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## Micky013

It is quite light for the size however we have wrc doors which will b clear coated.  
This is for my extension which is dbl brick so it has 2 gal angle lintels. I will be using triple hinges so hopefully that will spread the load. Brickies bricked up the cavity in each opening (3) so i cant really wedge.  
Was thinking worst case i could use bugles and large plugs? Possible?

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## David.Elliott

Ramset Australia 
This is what I use. Reading the notes you will see the applications include hollow brick...

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## Micky013

Sweet thanks for the link - ive give them a go and hope for the best.

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## TheHammer

Tapcon screws are the fastest and easiest. They also make the smallest hole. Mitre10 and the Big Green Monster both sell packs of 10.   Search - Our range | Bunnings Warehouse

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## Micky013

Just had a look. You reckon that would hold good - esp if it self taps into hollow brick?

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## TheHammer

> Just had a look. You reckon that would hold good - esp if it self taps into hollow brick?

  You will love Tapcons the first time you try them. In the US its the standard fastener for ply/timber to masonry. AU has all kinds of cool and fancy fasteners from Ramset; however, they are often overkill and take too much time. The drill bit size is critical with the Tapcon screws. Read the package and use the bit they recommend. Yes they hold in hollow brick. The holes are small so they don't blow them up.

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## Micky013

Thought I'd give an update on how things went. Put up 2 of 4 frames and it went surprisingly well. I used the 125 or 150 Ram Plugs (biggest length i could get) and they held surprisingly well. Two of the bolt did snap when I was tightening up - even though there's not really alot of pressure on the bolts. They dont seem to do up really hard like they would in solid concrete but the frames feel solid as. 
Not sure if you can see in the pic but I have located a bolt next to each hinge and I plan on putting another 2 or 3 on the other side to even the pressure on the frame. I didnt fix directly in the middle as I was worried about cupping the frame over time due to the extreme width (400mm). Dont mind if its a bit overkill with the bolts because I really dont want issues once the doors are up. 
If you have any positive suggestions on better fixing before I finish them off that would be great. 
Thanks for the replies guys - really helped!

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