# Forum Home Renovation Waterproofing  full bathroom. Showerbase, waterproof and floor waste question- Queenslander in QLD.

## grantbudd

Time to renovate the new bathroom area. Area is 1800 x 3300 and was part of an old bedroom.  
New ceiling has been plastered and is awaiting undercoat.  
Flooring is the original 21mm thick hardwood timber floorboards now covered in 6mm BGC ceramic tile underlay. Floor tiles are 900 x 120 x 10 ceramic timber floorboard type with a 3mm grout gap. 
House is approx 1000 above ground level 
Plumbing and electrical rough in is done 
Walls are combination of treated pine and original hardwood  
New walls 3300 x 2400 have been built using 70x45 treated pine.  
Old existing hardwood walls (Doorway and end of bathroom with window) 1800 x 2400  
So far I have nailed one sheet of villaboard and am sick so its time to do a bit of research. Wall tiles are 600 x 600 x 12mm  *I plan to waterproof over the top of the villaboard and cement sheet joints using the required flexable corners, cloth tape and paintable membrane (crommelin). I will also tape all gaps on the floor and silicon all tap holes. I will also silicon all vertical and horizontal corners before I tape and membrane them. Does this sound about right?* 
There will be a corner 900 x 900 curved corner shower in the right corner when you enter the bathroom (showerco city 900 round) and the base is pre-made like marble trend. I have written to Showerco but always like to hear from you guys. * 
Can I tile (floor only) and then lay the shower base on top? * *Is the shower base siliconed to the villaboard along the 2 straight sides and underside?* 
The bath is caroma cube 1800 (1750) with a tile bead on one side which will be at the end of the bathroom under the window. 
The check out is 10-15mm which means attacking the hardwood timber studs. This will be siliconed to the recessed villaboard after the waterproofing and tiling is done as it sits on little feet.   *There is no floor waste* is this a problem? Coming from Melbourne we had no floor wastes in 3 places we lived and I have never seen them anywhere in the world (other than public toilets) until coming to QLD. 
We dont want floor wastes as I dont want a lip at the doorway due to the slope of the floor. The floor tiles in the bathroom are being used throughout the entire house much like real timber floorboards would be. I want one even(ish) flat continuous surface much like if real timber was used. 
Am I breaking the law here? I dont really understand the issues with waterproofing given the lack of it in kitchens which is a wet area with sinks and dishwashers and even washing machines. We have no kids just the 2 of us and we don't plan on selling. 
Thanks for reading 
Grant

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## Cecile

We put a floor waste in our tiny bathroom, both of us remembering small kids in the bath and the frequent floods that follow happy, busy bathtime sessions.  It wasn't a requirement though, and I am sorry we did it.  I hate it.  Makes for easy mopping, but about once a week in the hot weather it creates a stink due to water sitting in the trap and we need to run the water in the vanity for a few minutes to move it along.

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## grantbudd

Thats my main reason for not wanting one. They look beyond ugly and make a bathroom feel more like a public convenience than a place to relax. The smell would be another reason although you can get them with no trap and they just empty out under the house. My only other idea would be to slope the floor to a corner? Given the waterproofing covers all corners (bottom plates) it should not be a worry. 
Do you have a step up or down going into your bathroom?

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## Cecile

> Thats my main reason for not wanting one. They look beyond ugly and make a bathroom feel more like a public convenience than a place to relax. The smell would be another reason although you can get them with no trap and they just empty out under the house. My only other idea would be to slope the floor to a corner? Given the waterproofing covers all corners (bottom plates) it should not be a worry. 
> Do you have a step up or down going into your bathroom?

  No step.  It's a 1.8m x 1.9m room with a  shower over bath along one wall and a toilet, cavity sliding door, with the vanity directly adjacent in the hallway.  The tiles run out into the hall under the vanity.  There's no slope on the floor.  The drain is chrome plated and doesn't look at all industrial.

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## grantbudd

So with no slope how is this expected to work? Sorry I dont see why one was put in if the floor isn't sloped towards it?? Did you do the work or pay someone? I do see why you did it with the kids as im sure they throw a lot of water around...Much like trying to bath a large dog in a bath  :Redface: ) I use the garden hose on the dogs now! The fur took ages to clean up!

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## Cecile

> So with no slope how is this expected to work? Sorry I dont see why one was put in if the floor isn't sloped towards it?? Did you do the work or pay someone? I do see why you did it with the kids as im sure they throw a lot of water around...Much like trying to bath a large dog in a bath ) I use the garden hose on the dogs now! The fur took ages to clean up!

  We did the specs and paid a builder.  We replaced the old rotten floor with 16mm compressed cement sheet and there was no screed needed.  The main reason to install it was "just in  case" so that we could use a squeegee  and simply push water towards the drain if needed.  Truth is, the grandchildren are rarely here at bathtime and when we clean there's not usually enough water to need the squeegee. 
The next bathroom will be a full wet area, designed to the Australian Standard for disability, and there will be a strip drain.  For my balance the floor must be as level as possible.

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## Oldsaltoz

> Flooring is the original 21mm thick hardwood timber floorboards now covered in 6mm BGC ceramic tile underlay. Floor tiles are 900 x 120 x 10 ceramic timber floorboard type with a 3mm grout gap.  I would be tempted to remove the old floor and replace it with FC sheeting, 15 mm should be ok.
> That timber will grow and shrink with changes in humidity alone and a combination of long but narrow tiles could be a problem. 
> So far I have nailed one sheet of Villaboard and am sick so its time to do a bit of research. Wall tiles are 600 x 600 x 12mm  *I plan to waterproof over the top of the Villaboard and cement sheet joints using the required flexible corners, cloth tape and paintable membrane (crommelin). I will also tape all gaps on the floor and silicon all tap holes. I will also silicon all vertical and horizontal corners before I tape and membrane them. Does this sound about right?*  Treating a timber floor with tile underlay laid down in a brick pattern, really should have a full membrane rather than just a bit here and there.  
> There will be a corner 900 x 900 curved corner shower in the right corner when you enter the bathroom (showerco city 900 round) and the base is pre-made like marble trend. I have written to Showerco but always like to hear from you guys.  It is often cheaper to install a standard shower, they can be any shape or size you like and will outlast the fantastic plastic jobs and look a lot better.* 
> Can I tile (floor only) and then lay the shower base on top? * *Is the shower base siliconed to the villaboard along the 2 straight sides and underside?*  It's good practice to waterproof the whole floor first, this can also prevent some of the problems with plasic shower base waste outlets leaking, not uncommon and mostly due to poor support when installed allowing some movement of the base. 
> The bath is caroma cube 1800 (1750) with a tile bead on one side which will be at the end of the bathroom under the window.  The bath should have a lip on all sides that will covered by the walls, the wall sheets should overhang the lop on the edge of the bath and finish 3 to mm off the surface so it can be properly caulked. 
> The check out is 10-15mm which means attacking the hardwood timber studs. This will be siliconed to the recessed Villaboard after the waterproofing and tiling is done as it sits on little feet.   *There is no floor waste* is this a problem? Coming from Melbourne we had no floor wastes in 3 places we lived and I have never seen them anywhere in the world (other than public toilets) until coming to QLD. 
> We don't want floor wastes as I don't want a lip at the doorway due to the slope of the floor. The floor tiles in the bathroom are being used throughout the entire house much like real timber floorboards would be. I want one even(ish) flat continuous surface much like if real timber was used.  Though not legal I have floor wastes installed with no more than a frog flap on the end of the pipe and a stainless steel dish washing pad inserted to prevent critter getting in. 
> You will have to install a water stop angle in the doorway to prevent water getting out under the tiles, but this can be hidden when grouting and no step. 
> ...

  Good luck.   :Smilie:

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## grantbudd

thanks for the detailed reply. I have written my replies to each of yours  :Redface: ) 
As for removing the existing T&G  floor given its about 60yrs old and in perfect condition. I am leaving it as it aint broke so why fix it ;-) I have also laid the ceramic tile underlay going across the grain of the floorboards. The adhesive I will use will be one that flexes as well as the ardex grout with a bit of booster to help. 
With waterproofing I will treat the joints with silicon and bond breakers and tape and then do the entire floor with 2 coats as required 
Lol with the shower base we went for a curved one for space reasons and the plastic base due to possible movement in the floor. The plastic will move with heat and given its not tiled I am hoping it wont cause issues like cracked grout. 
With supporting the shower base do you lay a bed of cement like you do with a new bath tub? Obviously leaving room around the waste. 
The bath is one side tile lip only, check it out it looks like a free standing one just attached to a wall along one side. It was the biggest and deepest and sexiest one we could find for our tight space. Clean slim lines and deep at 850!  Quote: "You will have to install a water stop angle in the doorway to prevent water getting out under the tiles, but this can be hidden when grouting and no step."   Can you provide a link of what this looks like?? the bathroom tiles are the same as the rest of the house and there are no breaks other than that of flowing from the older part into the extensions. 
I have quotes for waterproofing and im not put off about doing it myself after all laying pre fabricated rubber corners and cloth tape etc is like fiberglassing as I did years of that....The certificate would be good to have but for all the gear its $400 ish for 3 areas its $1400... 
Thanks again for your detailed reply  :Redface: )

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## Oldsaltoz

> thanks for the detailed reply. I have written my replies to each of yours ) 
> As for removing the existing T&G  floor given its about 60yrs old and in perfect condition. I am leaving it as it aint broke so why fix it ;-) I have also laid the ceramic tile underlay going across the grain of the floorboards. The adhesive I will use will be one that flexes as well as the ardex grout with a bit of booster to help. 
> With waterproofing I will treat the joints with silicon and bond breakers and tape and then do the entire floor with 2 coats as required 
> Lol with the shower base we went for a curved one for space reasons and the plastic base due to possible movement in the floor. The plastic will move with heat and given its not tiled I am hoping it wont cause issues like cracked grout. 
> With supporting the shower base do you lay a bed of cement like you do with a new bath tub? Obviously leaving room around the waste.  It should come with some instructions as what to use and how to place it, different brands have different needs. 
> The bath is one side tile lip only, check it out it looks like a free standing one just attached to a wall along one side. It was the biggest and deepest and sexiest one we could find for our tight space. Clean slim lines and deep at 850!  That sounds great.  Quote: "You will have to install a water stop angle in the doorway to prevent water getting out under the tiles, but this can be hidden when grouting and no step."   Can you provide a link of what this looks like?? the bathroom tiles are the same as the rest of the house and there are no breaks other than that of flowing from the older part into the extensions.  It's a simple bit of Aluminium angle, stuck down with a sealant and the up-stand finishing just below the tile finish, take care to ensure the ends are properly sealed. Best done before waterproofing the floor, then you can run the membrane onto it ensuring it won't leak. 
> I have quotes for waterproofing and im not put off about doing it myself after all laying pre fabricated rubber corners and cloth tape etc is like fiberglassing as I did years of that....The certificate would be good to have but for all the gear its $400 ish for 3 areas its $1400... 
> Thanks again for your detailed reply )

  Good luck.   :Smilie:

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## grantbudd

so the angle is forming a physical barrier between rooms which stops the travel of water under the tiles?? If you looked down you would see a little 1.5 or 3mm strip of ali across the doorway?

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## Oldsaltoz

> so the angle is forming a physical barrier between rooms which stops the travel of water under the tiles?? If you looked down you would see a little 1.5 or 3mm strip of ali across the doorway?

  No, the angle should come up half the tile thickness leaving a space for grout, so it can not be seen. 
Good luck.   :Smilie:

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## grantbudd

gotcha!!! thats great ill look into some of that...Thanks for the help witH that one....I may run a small pipe through the floor where its out of sight just in case stuff should burst or blow..im still sick and have no energy to work yet..bloody cold!!

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