# Forum Home Renovation Cladding  Plastering on Hardiflex

## Prospector

So on the advice of the nice guy at Mitre 10 (yes, I should know better than that, but I had no other knowledge on this topic at the time), I've lined our new bathroom and laundry with 6mm Hardiflex, fixed with 'Buildex Fibrezips', all countersunk so we can do a nice plaster job over all the holes. 
I'm 80% done when I realise that I really should have used versalux instead, because it has the nice smooth plasterable finish that we're looking for. But it's done now. My fear obviously is that I'll plaster over all the screws, and they'll stick out like dog's balls because they'll be the only flat bit on the whole wall! 
Question's are:
1. Has anyone done this and is it as bad as I think it will be?
2. Are there any products techniques I can use to minimise the problem?
3. Am I best off just applying a thin layer of plaster to the WHOLE WALL to get the lot smooth? 
Thanks guys. And gals. I wonder how many gals are on this forum????  :Blush7:

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## Godzilla73

G'day, 
Did the board have a recessed edge for jointing tape or is it a different board? I used the recessed edge in my bathroom for tiling on and painting and it's fine.

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## Prospector

No, no recessed edge down the side. It's all just flat.

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## Godzilla73

So what happens when you butt 2 sheets together join wise, or do your tiles cover them.  
Hope i'm not causing more grief for you here... :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

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## Prospector

Hmm...... Yeah, see I've never done any plastering or anything before. I didn't realise what that recessed strip was for. I wonder how that's going to go. I don't really have a choice other than just to try and plaster it and see how it goes.

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## CPE W&C

You can tape the joins and then try and float all the walls with basecoat and then topcoat to get a smooth finish, but not having recess joints really puts you in a bind. A good plasterer could do it, but you might be best off just taping the joins and tiling the walls to full height. Full height tiling might not be what you want though. Villaboard would be the lining you should of used, but even easier would of been lining it in WR plasterboard and a lot cheaper... 
Unless you are experienced with a trowel, i wouldnt recommend trying a full float. 
Regards, 
Craig

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## ringtail

Dont bother setting it all, just tile up to the ceiling, much cleaner and neater.

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## Prospector

By the time I tile right to the ceiling, it'd probly be cheaper to pay a plasterer to fix it for me! I've done an alright job with the plaster, a number of bits to touch up now the first coat of paint is on. You can see the joins, even though the plaster is pretty smooth. Oh well. There's nothing in the way, so I can always get it redone if it annoys me too much. 
On the bright side, the slight texture on the hardiflex has dissappeared, with an undercoat sealer rollered on, you can't see the diff between plastered and not. Still got another undercoat and 2 top coats to go as well. 
Now if I can just get the bathroom shop to get me the right damn shower screen....
Can you believe it, the manufacturer boxed them wrong so my base and screen aren't the same model. The guy at the shop tells me to bring back the base and swap it - the base that's waterproofed and concreted and tiled in place. It's all good, they got the right one after I told them to. That wasn't off topic at all...

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