# Forum Home Renovation The Garden Shed  Roller door adjustment - higher one side.

## craka

Hope someone may be able to chime in and give me some advi*c*e about adjusting a roller door, BnD specifically.  
It's a 2nd hand door, which I've hung up and managed to tension. However the door on the right side when looking from the backside of it is higher than the other side.  I've checked the slab where the  door weather strip is to meet and it is level.    
Going off BnD instruction manual it states to while holding tension, loosen the U bolts on axle both sides and than move the axle to the side (if higher on the right - move axle to the right 20-40mm, if hight left move left 20-40mm) than retighten U bolts.  
I've just done this however it is either wore or no better.      
Is there something else I'm missing ?

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## Whitey66

> Hope someone may be able to chime in and give me some advi*c*e about adjusting a roller door, BnD specifically.  
> It's a 2nd hand door, which I've hung up and managed to tension. However the door on the right side when looking from the backside of it is higher than the other side.  I've checked the slab where the  door weather strip is to meet and it is level.    
> Going off BnD instruction manual it states to while holding tension, loosen the U bolts on axle both sides and than move the axle to the side (if higher on the right - move axle to the right 20-40mm, if hight left move left 20-40mm) than retighten U bolts.  
> I've just done this however it is either wore or no better.      
> Is there something else I'm missing ?

  Make sure the side channels are plumb. Check it with a plumb bob, long spirit level or similar.
If the channels aren't plumb and at 90 degrees to the level slab you'll never get it right.
Also make sure your mounting brackets are at the same height. A clear length of tube filled with water is an easy way to check this.

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## craka

Sorry when you say the side channels what are you referring to?    If you mean the door tracks, I haven't yet fitted them yet.  
The mounting brackets are level, and when door is unravelled so is the top of the door, checked by using a bit of long RHS aluminium channel across door with spirit level attached.

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## SilentButDeadly

Level and square tracks are the key to this misadventure.

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## craka

Ok...    I thought the door would have had to be relative level at the bottom before installing the tracks.?      It has been a little bit of an adventure, a rather misguided one.  :Smilie:

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## Ozcar

Given it is a second hand door, are you sure the bottom has not been tapered? 
 I know that can be done, because I remember having a door altered like that. The reason I particularly remember is that they sent a bloke out to measure it up, and he said "no worries, we can taper the bottom of the door to suit the floor". Another bloke brought said door to install it, and found it had been tapered the wrong way! They had to replace it, so maybe the first one got sold off to some unsuspecting person.

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## Whitey66

> Hope someone may be able to chime in and give me some advi*c*e about adjusting a roller door, BnD specifically.  
> It's a 2nd hand door, which I've hung up and managed to tension. However the door on the right side when looking from the backside of it is higher than the other side.  I've checked the slab where the  door weather strip is to meet and it is level.    
> Going off BnD instruction manual it states to while holding tension, loosen the U bolts on axle both sides and than move the axle to the side (if higher on the right - move axle to the right 20-40mm, if hight left move left 20-40mm) than retighten U bolts.  
> I've just done this however it is either wore or no better.      
> Is there something else I'm missing ?

  When you said move it to the right or left I assume this is when looking at the axle from the end eg - move it closer or farther from the mounting wall? I hope you weren't moving the whole door sideways.
The reason you move the axle closer to the wall is so that side now sits lower because it's not as far from the roller to the track .

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## craka

> Given it is a second hand door, are you sure the bottom has not been tapered? 
>  I know that can be done, because I remember having a door altered like that. The reason I particularly remember is that they sent a bloke out to measure it up, and he said "no worries, we can taper the bottom of the door to suit the floor". Another bloke brought said door to install it, and found it had been tapered the wrong way! They had to replace it, so maybe the first one got sold off to some unsuspecting person.

  
It's definitely not tapered.

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## craka

Thanks Whitey, I haven't tried yet, but I have given you lost hope.  That is exactly what I was donig moving the axle sideways without trying to move curtain, as that is what the BnD instructions read as.  Here is a copy and paste from their manual: 
"If the door rolls up crooked with the RIGHT HAND SIDE
higher than the left proceed as follows:
a) Roll the door up as high as possible and tie two
ropes around the door roll approximately 300mm
from each end, as a safety precaution.
b) With a person at each end of the door, hold the
axle firmly with a large pip wrench (Stillson) at least
450mm long.
c) Loosen the "U" bolt nuts at both ends and KEEP A
FIRM GRIP ON WRENCH.
d) Move the axle to the RIGHT between 20 - 40mm.
e) Re-tighten "U" bolts before releasing pipe wrench.
f) Test and repeat if further adjustment in needed.
g) If the door is stiff to work or rattles over lead-on
top of guide, then refer to Step 2.4. 
What you said kind of make sense though I think.   
Just to add a further bit of info, I noticed when I do have to roller curtain down,  that with that last part of curtain looped on door one side appear to have rotated further than the other.      When I tensioned the door up, I tensioned it on the right side only as there is a motor on the left side and at the moment not enough pipe to get a set of stilsons on the left side.   Does door require tensionning both sides?   Or do you just tension from the one side like I did.   At the moment it is approximately 50mm higher on the right side when look from rear out than on the left side at bottom of curtain when curtain is drawn down as you would to close the door.

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## Whitey66

> Thanks Whitey, I haven't tried yet, but I have given you lost hope.  That is exactly what I was donig moving the axle sideways without trying to move curtain, as that is what the BnD instructions read as.  Here is a copy and paste from their manual: 
> "If the door rolls up crooked with the RIGHT HAND SIDE
> higher than the left proceed as follows:
> a) Roll the door up as high as possible and tie two
> ropes around the door roll approximately 300mm
> from each end, as a safety precaution.
> b) With a person at each end of the door, hold the
> axle firmly with a large pip wrench (Stillson) at least
> 450mm long.
> ...

  Moving the right hand side to the right means move the axle closer to the mounting position I think.
The roller door axle is solid so it doesn't matter which end it's tensioned from afaik.
Are you certain that the brackets are perfectly level? When you said you checked it you measured the actual top of the door and not the brackets didn't you? The rolled up door may not be level, you need to check the bracket height, not the door height. Like I said a water level is perfect for this and much more accurate that a spirit level over that distance, a laser level would be even better if you had one. If you don't get the brackets perfect you'll be chasing your tail for hours.

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## craka

I will have another look at it tomorrow, didn't get time this arvo before it started getting dark.  
I took a couple photos though of the dilema. 
I checked for level  before fitting door with a straight length of aluminium RHS section sitting on the top of the two brackets and a 1200mm spirit level on top and it was spot on.    
From one of the photos, I'm trying to show how the curtain has rotated further on one side than the other when door is pulled all the way down. When in the open position everything looks straight/even, if that makes sense.   
I think I'll release the tension and try loosen both sides and motor on axle and see if I can perhaps centre the axle better, see how it is then and work from there  with what you said Whitey as far as pushing the axle toward door openning or backward away from it to adjust for skew.

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## Whitey66

You really need the tracks installed first and have the tension set correctly before worrying about the closed position of the door.

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## craka

Ok will do.  I obviously don't have a clue but for some reason thought it'd be the other way around. ie get door close position and fit tracks.    But I've got it @@@@ about. Not the first time and very most likely not the last.  :Smilie:

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## craka

Well thought I probably should update, this, and thank you for help.  
I end up loosenning both sides and the motor clamp and centred the axle a little better. Tensioned it back up and tightened both sides and the motor.  Fitted the tracks, bit of adjusting tension, and now is a lot better, no perfect, but a new bit of weather strip and should be sufficient enough.    On a plus the 2nd hand motor that was on door still works too, just had to get a new remote.

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## redvl2002

From the first picture it looks like the ground does slope a little, thus why it does not hit the ground flat.
You can change the angle by altering the brackets that the door hang on a little, ie move one of the brackets higher or lower to suit the angle required. You will need to prop the door to do this.
But when you do this, you also have to change the angle of the side tracks to suit how the door drops. This is important since your door is motorised as the motor can go into obstruction mode if you don't. 
See how you go.

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## craka

> From the first picture it looks like the ground  does slope a little, thus why it does not hit the ground flat.
> You can change the angle by altering the brackets that the door hang on a  little, ie move one of the brackets higher or lower to suit the angle  required. You will need to prop the door to do this.
> But when you do this, you also have to change the angle of the side  tracks to suit how the door drops. This is important since your door is  motorised as the motor can go into obstruction mode if you don't.  
> See how you go.

  Hi  mate,  hanks but the photo might be a little deceptive, the slab is  level.  I probably should show another photo with how it sits now, to my  needs it is satifactory and the motor opens and closes it with out it  getting stuck. I think when I measure it was about 5mm out compared to  the other side when it makes contact to ground/slab level.

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## redvl2002

If its only 5mm, I would adjust one of the brackets that roller door shaft sits on ie  a little higher or lower, use a prop. The guides on both side might need to be adjusted a little after doing so to suit the way the door drops. Its no big deal if the brackets are out a little. Also its probably worth while checking the brackets with a water level to make sure that they are level, as you say that the concrete is level. 
Hope this helps.

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