# Forum Home Renovation Metalwork & Welding  Creating rust.

## PlatypusGardens

Been reading about different ways to create rust. 
Vinegar 
Salt and water 
Lemon 
Pool chlorine 
Peroxide 
Weedkiller 
Copper sulfate 
(And combinations of the above) 
Etc etc etc.  
Have tried Salt, vinegar and water mix which works ok, but I usually need it to work a bit faster as I'm always scrambling to get stuff ready for the markets....  
Any tips?   :Smilie:

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## justonething

Liquid pool chlorine is the best I think.

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## Led

That rust paint is good. We did some screens at the entrance to our studio. Scotty Cam came by to do a voice over and took heaps of photos he loved it so much.

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## Marc

Place the part to make rusty in a container and cover with water. Add Vinegar to clean the part well, then Bleach. Vinegar stripps any coating off the steel, bleach gives up oxygen to combine with the Iron.
Volumes you have to work out by trial and error.
Another...you have heard of cleaning a rusty piece with electrolysis. You tube is full of long winded explanations. Now you want the opposite, that is create rust, so invert the polarity and make your clean piece soon to be rusty piece the Anode and Rust is your Uncle !

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## Random Username

I think you'll find that hydrochloric acid will encourage rust fastest, even if it strips it all off first! While hydrochloric acid will initially remove rust, the acid etched surface will re-rust at an alarming rate - literally minutes after you use it, you'll see a brown film appearing in any not-bone-dry climate.  Regular light misting with salty water should also help. 
Having a beaker of acid near what you are trying to rust can't hurt either, as the chloride ions promote oxidation of steel like nobody's business. 
I actually store my bottle of hydrochloric acid away from the shed simply to keep the risk of rusty tools at a minimum!

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## PlatypusGardens

Gawd, I just lost my whole post, stupid iPad  :Mad:   
*sigh*    
Ok.  
What is "That rust paint"?
Everyone around town has heard of it but can't find it anywhere...  :Frown: 
is it the Porters one?
Is it a paint or does it actually make stuff rust?   
Marc, 
Most of the stuff I make won't fit in a bath.
Have experimented with electrolysis to remove rust and it worked well.            
Again, reversal not an option due to size of items.    
I mostly need to make rust around the areas where I have welded.   
Hydrochloric acid or pool chlorine then?
Will try that.   :Smilie:

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## Led

Can't remember the brand but it is a 2 part like the Porters. You paint the iron base on first then when it's dry you paint the rusting stuff on, I think it has an acid base.
It was about 6 - 7 years ago when we did it, so a bit vague, but the Porters looks like the stuff we used.

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## Marc

4 Ways to Make Metal Rust - wikiHow

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## PlatypusGardens

> 4 Ways to Make Metal Rust - wikiHow

  
Yeh seen that.... 
Might just mix acid, chlorine/bleach, vinegar, peroxide, salt, water and whatever else I can find and splash it on....?   :Biggrin:

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## heavytrevy

a light mist of hydrochloric acid and leave it exposed in high humidity.

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## PlatypusGardens

.

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## PlatypusGardens

Well I sprayed some hydrochloric on a few different bits of steel over an hour ago and so far nothing has happened.
Nothing at all. 
It's cleaned all the surrounding rust off though, which is the opposite of what I want...  
Hmm

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## notvery

Easiest way to get rust is to buy an alfa romeo alfasud...or jag xj6. they rusted in the showroom let alone when outside...

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## Marc

It is a common misconception to believe that acid will make steel rust. 
Acid in fact dissolves any layer of the different forms of Iron that build up on steel, be it scale, red rust or black rust. it is only after the acid work is done that the oxygen from water, air or any other oxidising chemical you want to use on the clean steel can work quickly. after spraying on acid, or dipping in acid, apply bleach and your rust will start appearing.
One thing that has not been mentioned is that heat accelerates the rate of oxidation. I leave to you how and how much heat you want to apply to the part that needs to rust.

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## PlatypusGardens

Right 
So acid to prep/clean and then use bleach/peroxide/vinegar/etc?  
Cool.

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## notvery

wouldnt you avoid the vinegar as that will be acidic and strip the rust again? the bleach is there cos it oxygenates the metal i think. so after acid put the metal in an oxygen tent with a high humidity and bleach would be the ideal solution?????
that all sounds like some dodgy beauty treatment that is all the rage in the eastern suburbs for yummy mummies.

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## Marc

> Right 
> So acid to prep/clean and then use bleach/peroxide/vinegar/etc?  
> Cool.

   Bleach or peroxide yes, vinegar no need since you already stripped the metal with CLOH. The reason why vinegar may appear to work slowly is because it is an organic acid, very mild and contains a lot of water. 
Hit it with concentrated bleach and keep it in the sun. I would like to experiment to strip it clean first, then wash and place in a oven and once hot at say 60/70C do the bleach thing. Use goggles and gloves since hot bleach is no laughing matter.

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## r3nov8or

On top of old horror hill in a secret laboratory,
Professor Weirdo and Count Kook were in their monstrous glory. 
Six drops of the essence of terror, Five drops of sinister sauce,
When the stirring's done may I lick the spoon?
Of course ha ha of course.
Now for the tincture of tenderness, But I must use only a touch,
For without a touch of tenderness, He might destroy me!
(Professor Weirdo, bumped) Whoops too much.
(Prof) "Better hold your breath it's starting to tick:
(Count Kook) Better hold my hand I'm feeling sick -
(Milton) Hello Dad!
(Prof) What have I done?
(M.) I'm Milton, Your brand new son!

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## PlatypusGardens

Ok off to th shop to get some bleach and/or peroxide    :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

Well, getting mixed results. 
Some bits are going lightly rusted, others just in spots, some not at all and some (where I probably put too much on) are more like a sludge. 
The ones where I didn't wipe or rinse with water in between acid and bleach have gone sludgy and dark.  
Will try again tomorrow with some different pieces.
And take some pics.        
This seems to work well  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OSH8CuSVN6M  
Another  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8TNAxJXMzU8

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## PlatypusGardens

The one on the left was cleaned up with grinder flap disc, then acid and bleach.
The middle one was a bit rusty to begin with, I sprayed it with acid, then bleach.
On the right was flap disced, acid then bleach. 
Middle one seems to have worked the best.
Almost as if the existing rust blended with the new stuff         
Round one was flap disced, acid, bleach, then cleaned up again, degreased, acid, bleach. 
Square....can't remember now....should have labelled them haha, but that looks ok too     
Weird how it went all spotty like that...

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## PlatypusGardens

Got some pool chlorine while I was out and about. 
gave the bits I did yesterday a quick squirt of acid (threw some salt on for good luck) then pool clorine.
Definitely a bit happening now!

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## PlatypusGardens

This is the spotty one which had hardly any rust on it before.

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## PlatypusGardens

The salt was probably a waste of time.
While it looked like it was fizzing and eating away at the steel at first, it's now just caked on there....  
Might dissolve some in water and spray it lightly instead.   :Smilie:

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## Uncle Bob

Out of the blue and into the black.
Rust never sleeps  :Wink:

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## PlatypusGardens

:Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

Pool chlorine is hardcore  
(I dunno what that was on the left foot, but it looks like I have feral toenails poking through the sock hahahaha )

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## PlatypusGardens

Definitely works though.   :Shock:          :2thumbsup:

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## PlatypusGardens

Ok next issue.... 
How would I go about "masking" bits that I don't want to rust when spraying the chlorine?
like the speaker surrounds on the box, for example.    
Would vaseline work?
Or grease? 
Or just tape it up?   :Smilie:

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## commodorenut

While vaseline or grease would be an ideal "mask" that's easy to remove later (and I've done so successfully on odd shaped things I have painted) I'd be concerned about a reaction with the chlorine.
Chlorine + something normally makes a bang (can't remember what, but teenagers in the 80s used to make bottle bombs that way) and a petroleum based paste would see it become something akin to napalm. 
I can't see tape lasting unless you're only going to mist the chlorine onto the exposed surfaces, but it looks like you've been literally drowning the metal in it.

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## PlatypusGardens

> Chlorine + something normally makes a bang (can't remember what, but teenagers in the 80s used to make bottle bombs that way)

  Ooh yes good point haha.
(I may or may not have been involved in those sorts of shenanigans when I was younger....) 
It would need to be in a sealed container and have some sort of ignition though, right?
Wouldn't just EXPLODE on contact in open air.....?
Some sort of nasty reaction may still take place. 
Anyway, it might be easier just to apply the chlorine with a paintbrush.....
If I lay the box on its back and "paint" around the bits I should be OK. 
I also want it to have an uneven rust look, like more on the corners etc, so brush will give a bit more precision when applying.   :Smilie:   
Still, it would be good to be able to use something to mask...for doing patterns and/or writing on stuff....     

> I can't see tape lasting unless you're only going to mist the chlorine onto the exposed surfaces, but *it looks like you've been literally drowning the metal in it.*

  pretty much.

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## Marc

Mm ... Choline granules explode if you add water to them instead of adding the granules to the water, just like acid. You are probably thinking of diesel and fertilizer.  
Back to your project ... lanolin spray is sticky enough to cover what you don't want to rust. You will have to mask the rest, spray lanolin then remove the masking and do your deed. Vaseline would work too but it is too soft and will probably drip on other parts.
 You could mix lanolin and vaseline to make a sticky paste and apply with a brush. We used to make such paste to cover our body for long distance swimming since pure lanolin was way too sticky to spread.

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## PlatypusGardens

> Mm ... Choline granules explode if you add water to them instead of adding the granules to the water, just like acid. You are probably thinking of diesel and fertilizer.

  
Not sure, but i think there was sugar involved maybe?
And/or brake fluid...    :Confused:  
I was never involved in the making of the alleged explosives.
 Pretty sure some of them were just a dry mix though... No liquids.  
Christmas sparkler for fuse and RUN!!!   :Biggrin:         

> Back to your project ... lanolin spray is sticky enough to cover what you don't want to rust. You will have to mask the rest, spray lanolin then remove the masking and do your deed. Vaseline would work too but it is too soft and will probably drip on other parts.

  Ah good tip, thanks.   :Smilie:         

> You could mix lanolin and vaseline to make a sticky paste and apply with a brush. We used to make such paste to cover our body for long distance swimming since pure lanolin was way too sticky to spread.

  You never cease to amaze me, Marc   :Shock:

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## PlatypusGardens

Interesting. 
I started off in the shade (well, in the shed actually) and not a lot happened.
As soon as I put them in the sun it went off.  
I can't wait for summer and high humidity.   :Biggrin:

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## PlatypusGardens

I've also discovered that pool chlorine makes blue pants go yellow, while hydrochloric acid makes them go red     :Confused:

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## Uncle Bob

> I've also discovered that pool chlorine makes blue pants go yellow, while hydrochloric acid makes them go red

  And tomorrow there won't be much left of them  :Biggrin:

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## PlatypusGardens

> And tomorrow there won't be much left of them

  Hahaha, nah it seems to be ok.
I reckon if it was gonna chew through it would have done so by now...  
but they will probably change colour gradually as I'm mucking around with this rust business...

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## PlatypusGardens

Well this one came up pretty good in the end so gave it a coat of clear.
Will be a good sign to put up at the markets.     :Biggrin:

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## Marc

I would try another sign that says "METALART" What about this one, written with the welder Mythbusters style on a plate 100x3x400 ...  "DIDJABRINGYABEERALONG"

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## PlatypusGardens

Damn, I was hoping you were gonna explain the difference in colour on my pants

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## MorganGT

> Chlorine + something normally makes a bang (can't remember what, but teenagers in the 80s used to make bottle bombs that way)

  I don't think it works anymore since brake fluids use different formulations now than they did back then, but we used to use powdered pool chlorine and brake fluid in a glass Coke bottle.
Put in a handful of chlorine powder, pour in a good dollop of brake fluid, put your hand over the top and give it one quick shake then quickly set it down and stand back - the reaction would take a couple of seconds to start after shaking to mix up the ingredients. Nothing would happen for a second or two other than some heat and smoke, then FOOOOM! and a 3 foot jet of flame out of the bottle! We used to set the bottles down on their side in the middle of the street so they would shoot off down the street like an unguided missile before smashing into a kerb and shattering. If you were a real thrillseeker you would screw the cap back on quickly before shaking the bottle, which would make the bottle burst and spew flaming goo everywhere, but you had to either put it down and run FAST to escape the carnage or throw it a good distance.
Many years later when I was old enough to know better, we were fooling around building potato cannons using PVC pipe and fittings, BBQ igniters and aerosol propellants as fuel. One day I had the bright idea to resurrect the chlorine bomb idea and we built a potato cannon that would launch a Coke bottle. Until the one time the chlorine bomb worked but the potato cannon misfired after we dropped the bottle in - I quickly dropped it and ran, and the bomb blew the cannon into hundreds of pieces of PVC shrapnel.
We decided to go back to some of the less risky things we were up to at the time, like putting big engines in little cars with the structural integrity of a rusty soup can and driving sideways at high speed at night on fire trails without adequate lighting.....

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## PlatypusGardens

Haha

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## Uncle Bob

MorganGT and Renovateforums are now a red bold and flashing item on the NSA's screens  :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

> MorganGT and Renovateforums are now a red bold and flashing item on the NSA's screens

    :Rofl:

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## commodorenut

That had me in stitches!   Spud guns were great.  As teenagers, we could never afford to keep the munitions supply up, so we used to use 50mm wastewater pipe, and roll up wads of dirt in strips of old rags.  When the WD40 supply ran out, we found "Preen" stain remover worked just as well.....  
At a facility I used to visit quite some years ago with work, I was shown what dry ice & water (only about 1/4-1/3 full) in a coke bottle could do (search youtube for "dry ice bottle" if you're inquisitive). 
They would wait for a plane to come in to land, then quickly throw it across the factory - aiming to have the lid hit the ground first.  
The result would be a big bang (masked by the noise of the plane) and the bottle taking off like a rocket. 
They stopped after one guy held onto it too long - it blew in his hand, and the PET bottle ripped through muscle & tendon tissue in his hand, resulting in surgery & several days in hospital.   
Nowdays the safety committee would scream, and the OH&S manager would have a coronary.....  
I can't imagine doing the spud gun with a flammable payload.  That would have taken some balls of steel to attempt that!

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## Marc

> Damn, I was hoping you were gonna explain the difference in colour on my pants

   That is easy. Bleach destroys the chromophore by oxidising the molecules so they can no longer reflect colour. The acid seems to have affected some chromophores more than others so the prevalent colour is now red. I think that given time it will turn to white or to a hole.

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## Marc

As far as the post about explosives and explosions, it's interesting to see that the generation Y has not ventured into this experiments at all and the gen X before them very little. 
At work we don't have a proper kitchen so I bought a hot plate to make coffee. When i finish I unplug the thing but the plate has a lot of residual heat. I noticed a few times some of the staff comes near the hot plate only to retrieve with fearful exclamation of "It is hot!!". Bloody hell I reply every time, where do you cook at home? In the sink? 
Believe it or not I had to make a sign and sticky tape it to the bench ... "Hot Plate" ... we have turned into a nation of wimps. 
It is hard to imagine what would happen if a war broke out and we needed to recruit the population to go to war.

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## PlatypusGardens

Back to my rust adventures. 
A lot happened over night.  
The writing on the steel disc has gone very crusty and dark.
love it      
I mucked around a bit last night with the acid as you can see.
I'll probably go over the whole disc around the text to get it even and then let it rust a little before clear coating it.      
Now, the box.... 
I brushed a bit of stuff on it at the front and it's bringing up some cool patterns where there was a bit of paint or gal left, but the whole box has got a light coat of rust from sitting next to the other stuff, and also a tin with a bit of chlorine was left next to it.         
Very interesting.  
Lots more experimenting to be done with this.   :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

> Bleach destroys the chromophore by oxidising the molecules so they can no longer reflect colour. 
> The acid seems to have affected some chromophores more than others so the prevalent colour is now red.

  Aha       

> I think that given time it will turn to white or to a hole.

  
Most likely after the first wash I reckon

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## Random Username

If you really want to get creative with rust and pattern etching, you might be able to borrow some techniques from the process of making printed circuit boards.   
A common etchant for them is ferric chloride (which is the horrible brown sludge you end up with when you mix iron and hydrochloric acid together), and a Sharpie or Artline felt tip pen to create the resist (which can be cleaned off with solvent) OR there are also sheets that can be put through your copier/laserprinter and applied to a surface. They're designed for copper, but they might also work as a resist on steel plate to keep hydrochloric acid off.

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## PlatypusGardens

Funny you should say that as I was just googling Metal Etching earlier haha. 
I will most likely look in to that as well.    :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

Playing a bit more with the saw blades. 
Funny how unpredictable this is, the center of the Yin Yang one hasn't been affected by the chlorine at all.
I went over th whole thing with acid first and then chlorine to make the pattern.  
And the bottom one which is only a bit more rusty than what the top one was before I applied the acid is barely changing...     
And this one...I just keep giving it a bit here and there to see what happens.
I went over it with acid around the writing, then gave it a clean with stiff brush and water and went around the outline of the letters with more acid.

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## PlatypusGardens

Ok, strange things happening now.   :Confused:  
A bit of moisture in the air this morning and the metal is...weeping...  
The front of the box was wet and the rust has been running and dripping.
(I should have taken a pic before I wiped it off)
There was a small puddle on the bench below it.    
The plate that I "wrote" on with acid, then sealed with the Xtroll, seems to be leeching through the clear coat.
There's little beads all around the letters.     
Need to work out what's going on here.
And the correct procedure for using these chemicals. 
Bare metal, clean with acid, apply chlorine.
I get a feeling I need to do something more in between the steps?
More cleaning or degreasing or what though? 
Apply acid and let it flash rust a bit first before putting chlorine on?  
Can't have the things "leaking" as soon as it gets a bit humid....   :No:

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## Uncle Bob

Hows, your pants? Got holes in them yet?  :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

Pants are fine.
More concerned about what's going on with the crying steel at the moment.   :Smilie:

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## phild01

> Hows, your pants? Got holes in them yet?

  Won't happen overnight but will happen :Biggrin:

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## PlatypusGardens

Well I wore those pants while messing around with this stuff as I had a feeling I would end up splashing some on them. 
Not an issue.  :Rolleyes:   
The reaction on the steel is, however.   :Annoyed:

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## r3nov8or

Don't stop the weeping - perfect it! Big bucks to be made. I can foresee a MetalArt "Weeping Madonna" becoming a tourist attraction in your area   :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

Mmm, creating patterns and using pool chlorine seems tricky.
The lines get very blurred after a while and it seems that having used the two chemicals close to eachother makes them react with eachother...  
Might just try the acid and let the stuff sit for a few days.  
Went over the boombox earlier and ground it back to bare steel again, sprayed acid and left it outside.
Just had a very light sprinkle of rain so will be interesting to see what happens there     :Smilie:

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## Random Username

The chlorine ions - from acid (hydro_chloric_ acid) /salt (sodium _chloride_) / bleach (sodium hypo_chlorite_) will always encourage rust.  
What's happening is 1) iron plus chlorine gives you iron chloride, which 2) further reacts with atmospheric moisture to give you iron oxide plus hydrochloric acid, which takes you back to step 1, and rinse and repeat. 
I would: 
Soak in an alkaline solution (bicarb of soda, washing soda, caustic soda etc etc)
Dry in an oven at maybe no more than 100 degrees 
Apply an oil type finish (like Penetrol or fish oil or auto clear-coat all over) to seal out moisture. 
OR 
Don't accelerate the process too much; clean the metal (wire brush, sandpaper etc), make the desired patterns using hydrochloric acid only - leave to react for maybe an hour, then alkali detergent clean the entire piece, scrubbing with a nylon bristle brush to ensure removal of as much of the acid as possible, and leave it outside to rust at an un-accelerated rate...I'd expect the acid treated area to still rust much faster as the surface will be much more active as it has been prepared at a chemical level. 
OR 
This is after looking at the yin-yang symbol...clean the metal (wire brush/sandpaper/sandblast), acid etch the whole thing, detergent clean, mask a pattern on with spraypainter's lining tape, spray a few layers of automotive clear coat over the entire thing, remove the tape when the clear is dry, and let the rust happen where there is no clear coat protection, then seal the rust with more clear when it's at the 'rustiness' level you want!

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## PlatypusGardens

Yeh good info cheers.
 Always helps understanding the chemical process a bit better.   
At this stage "making patterns" isn't my main concern, however.
It was just something I played around with there for a few days to see what would happen.  :Smilie:  
More interested in making quick rust on freshly ground and welded rusty steel to make it blend in with the rest.
Almost all the stuff is too large to "soak" or put in the oven. 
So the part of your post after the "OR" is what I'm looking for here. 
What would an "alkali detergent" be?   
Thanks again   :Smilie:

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## Random Username

As far as I'm aware, the majority of high strength detergents are all alkali...just don't use hand soap/gentle on hands dish soap (that might be slightly acid) or car detergent (that should be neutral). 
So dishwasher powder, Tricleanium, caustic soda, sodium carbonate (washing soda), sodium bicarbonate, cheap laundry detergent...all the stuff that really makes your fingers feel 'slippery clean' (ie 'we've saponified the fat and oil in your skin' clean).

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## PlatypusGardens

Gotcha    :2thumbsup:  :2thumbsup:  :2thumbsup:

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## commodorenut

Have you ever thought of just building a bonfire in a 44 gallon drum and "toasting" the box?  A fresh drum, with the paint burnt off from the heat, is instantly rusty the next day due to the heat accelerating the oxidation process.

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## PlatypusGardens

It's not just about the box...   http://www.renovateforum.com/f249/my-metal-art-114587/

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## PlatypusGardens

Now we're cooking with gas   :Smilie:   http://www.renovateforum.com/f249/gh...50/#post978525

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## PlatypusGardens

Still getting very mixed results here.  
Trying different combinations.  
Acid - leave 
Acid - hose - leave 
Acid - scrub with washing powder - hose - leave 
Acid - scrub with washing powder - hose - chlorine 
Acid - leave - chlorine 
Acid - hose - chlorine 
Acid - hose - acid - chlorine   
Different results when in sun or shade with all of the above.
A milky coating forms when in the sun when leaving acid on or hosing off.   
Also seems to differ greatly between different pieces of steel.    
All of the above seem to work though.     :Smilie:

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## Marc

Acid, hose, heat, chlorine

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## PlatypusGardens

> Acid, hose, heat, chlorine

  
Well in this case the sun will have to do for heat as I (still) don't have a torch.    :Smilie:

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## Marc

Oven ... (when Mrs is away)  ...  :Smilie: 
However the sun where you are is a good source of heat ... particularly with all that global warming ... hu hu

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## PlatypusGardens

A bit big for the oven  :Shock:     
I might have to get a torch I suppose.
Think I'm about to run out of MIG gas anyway so a trip to the shop will be coming up soon... 
Dangerous place that Blacksmith Jack's  
Always end up leaving with more than I came for.....

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## PlatypusGardens

The acid is handy for cleaning the lightly rusted stuff before welding though. 
Like with the ball in the pic above, 8 pieces which need to be welded both ends.
I just hung them over a besserblock, sprayed the ends, hosed and wiped off and ready to weld, 
sure saves a lot of wire brushing.  
AND they rust by themselves once it's done.  :Shock:    *BRILLIANT!*   :2thumbsup:

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## Marc

I used to make rustic furniture and used a propane torch to burn the outside a bit, then scrape the charcoal with a scrubber. One day I decided I wanted the same finish on the mezzanine bearers and joist, but needed something with more oomph. I found one at cash convertors, a massive roofers blowtorch with a business side some 80mm in diameter that makes a noise like a fighter jet and burns anything in a matter of seconds. I have to hook it up to a 9k bottle, the 2.5 freezes over  :Smilie:

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## notvery

I have no idea what a roofers torch is but can roughly guess and now i want one.  
Why did the gas freeze over? Pls explain.
 Couldn't you just give it a quick blast from the torch?🔥💥🚒🚑

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## PlatypusGardens

> I have no idea what a roofers torch is but can roughly guess and now i want one.

  
Haha same here.  
As for the gas, I'm guessing too much being extracted at high velocity from a small bottle creating some sort of reaction.  
Or something....

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## Marc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2XsaM5PJ1M 
Ha ha, yes they are useful yet I never used it for its intended purpose to line flat roofs.
Not many flat roof in Australia I take ... fortunately.
A small bottle has a small surface to exchange heat with the outside so the evaporation of the gas under pressure takes too much heat from the bottle and liquid gas and the whole thing freezes in not too much time. The 9k bottle freezes too but takes much longer and if you give it a rest from time to time you are ok. Heating the bottle using the flame is a bit risky and at best would burn the paint but a bucket of hot water usually does the trick. 
I am sure you have seen this used on the railway https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lb1q8xXo0rU 
and one more https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhLCwDpTyn4

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## PlatypusGardens

Don't they have something like that when working on roads?
Heating tar to fill cracks or something.....?

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## Marc

Hum ... probably, never paid much attention, they usually bring in big machines that grind up the road mix it and spit it out again new. 
But that maxi blower is real good. I once ran out of coal and used ti to heat up 100x10 flat bar and bend it. Slow but I got it to just very dark red by sheltering the flam with 3 bricks

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## PlatypusGardens

My bleached pants aren't showing any signs of disintegrating after a number of washes now. 
100% cotton BTW    :Smilie:

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## r3nov8or

Hey PG, now that you are a little down the track, can you post your best method/recipe, for the record?

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## PlatypusGardens

Still very hit and miss. 
Hydrochloric acid on its own seems to work best across the board though.
Give it a light spray and just leave it alone. 
About 3 days gives a nice coating on most things, but some stuff sprayed in the morning are good to go in the afternoon.  
Acid - hose/detergent - chlorine doesn't seem to be THAT good.
The chlorine sits on the surface and forms a rusty sludge rather than biting in to the steel.   :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

I soaked some chain completely in acid yesterday   
About half a beer later it was clean as a whistle.
I dunked it in a bucket of water and truckwash so I could handle it safely. 
By the time I had welded about 1200mm of it together it was rusty again.   
Been doing this a bit with ends of steel rod etc.
Works perfectly for what I'm doing.
Quick to clean and by the time it's welded it's rusty again.   
Also soaked this old spanner for about ten minutes, just for a laugh.   
Wire brushed and sprayed it with WD40 and it still looks good and shiny.    :Smilie:

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## Moondog55

Don't you own a dog? The very best rust accelerator I can think of is dog urine, a mates Kelpie certainly ruined the wheels on my old truck. if you don't want to run around with the tin can on a stick perhaps urea from a garden supply would also work; being too much of a gentleman to suggest anything else but

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