# Forum Home Renovation Doors, Windows, Architraves & Skirts  A silly Question! maybe?

## celeste

Hi all 
This may seem like a silly question to you all! But, I was wondering. 
I have a few (about 20) doors to hang, all the info on how to, has told me to plane the edges.  Why plane? Why not circular saw or router? 
Celeste

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## Groggy

> Hi all 
> This may seem like a silly question to you all! But, I was wondering. 
> I have a few (about 20) doors to hang, all the info on how to, has told me to plane the edges.  Why plane? Why not circular saw or router? 
> Celeste

  A plane will do it faster (on a single door), leave a finish suitable for finishing and make no noise. 
However, use a router or circ saw by all means if you have 20. Just be aware that door widths vary and a plane is usually best to finesse the final fit.

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## celeste

Hi Groggy 
I have a planer - arh! never used it, it was my late hubbies. Guess I need to dig it out and test run it. :Rolleyes:   
It is at least 18 years old and electric, sould I pop it into the tool shop for a check up, it's a - Oh! I just went and had a looked, I have 2 - 
1 x makita hand plane and 1 x makita power plane. :Confused:   
Ok! that makes new questions. 1st, I basically know what a planer does.
So what is the difference between the 2 above and which should I use on the doors. 
Also, as I am laying bamboo T&G on the floors that is 19mm thick, I will need to trim the bottoms approx. 30mm.
do I trim just one edge (bottom) or a bit on both (top and bottom)? further to this, how much meat (so to speak) is on the bottom and top of a core door (internal) and a solid door (external)? :Confused:   
Or does anyone know a good / reliable / reasonably priced  handyman service in perth I can hire to do this? 20 is alot isn't it  :Eek:   
Celeste

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## Groggy

Electric planers are not very forgiving, and it is best to put a very small angle on the side opposite the hinge. If you have a hand plane (non electric) I'd use that, otherwise practice on scrap until you are comfortable with it. 
I am not sure how much 'meat' in inside a hollow core door, but for a 30mm cut I'd spread it over both top and bottom to ensure you don't cut into a void.  
Don't forget to seal all the edges to avoid warping once you're done.

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## TermiMonster

If you're taking 30mm off a door, use a circular saw (neaten up with a plane to finish).
30mm is a lot to take off. 
I would take it off the bottom.
The hollow cores will probably only have a 25mm rail, top and bottom.  I would cut 28 or so from the bottom, completely removing that rail, then clean the laminated ply(?) coating from that.
 (or simply buy enough of the correct size material for all the doors, to save routing around) and clean back the cardboard crap from the inside, and glue in the new rail, leaving a couple of mm to trim (or not).
I have done this type of thing on many occasions.  Trying to take 15mm off top and bottom would only leave maybe 10mm on each which IMO isn't enough.
Solid cores should be OK.

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## Groggy

Thanks Termi, I just looked again and it may have appeared I suggested using a plane for the trim cuts. I'd do as you suggest and only use the plane on the sides. 
Doing the complete cut on one end and replacing the filler piece is a good idea.

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## ausdesign

Celeste if you're not 'proficient' in using an electric planer I'd mark both sides of the door to give you a line to work to.
You can use a square to check that the edge of the door is square as you plane but the second line gives you a guide so that you wont go too deep if the planer is not held level - if that makes sense.
If its a hollow core you can check how much meat is on the top & bottom rails by nailing in a fine brad until you feel the inside edge of the rail.
If there is enough I'd take some off both as removing the rail, cleaning it back & then gluing it back in properly can be a chore.
If its a ply faced door a deep score with a stanley knife & then taping along the line will reduce splintering if you your going to cut back with a power saw.

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## celeste

> Celeste if you're not 'proficient' in using an electric planer I'd mark both sides of the door to give you a line to work to.
> You can use a square to check that the edge of the door is square as you plane but the second line gives you a guide so that you wont go too deep if the planer is not held level - if that makes sense.  I was thinking along the same lines - I have a few of the old doors I can practices on. 
> If its a hollow core you can check how much meat is on the top & bottom rails by nailing in a fine brad until you feel the inside edge of the rail.
> If there is enough I'd take some off both as removing the rail, cleaning it back & then gluing it back in properly can be a chore.   Again I was thinking the same - hopefully I can do both ends instead of rplacing the rail. 
> If its a ply faced door a deep score with a stanley knife & then taping along the line will reduce splintering if you your going to cut back with a power saw.

  I didn't think of this one.  One more question - how can I tell if the blades on the planers are sharp?  Also, what is the difference between the 2 planes - the hand plane and the power plane ? both are makita and electric.  Celeste  Celeste

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