# Forum Home Renovation Sub Flooring  Bearers & Joists

## askaholic

Just got my plans back for a new house I am intending to owner build and am looking for some advice on the Timber for the bearers and joists  :Redface:  
F8 100mm x 75mm  &  F8 100mm x 38mm 
I have been told that F8 timber is green and will shrink & warp and also that it is hard to come buy. I have been suggested that I am better of using an F17 Hardwood 90mm x 90mm (90 x 45mm laminated), but obviously this would be more expensive.  
Any thoughts or direction is greatly appreciated 
Cheers 
(Flooring will be Yellow Tongue, Weatherboard Clad & Trussed Roof with Colorbond Sheets)

----------


## ringtail

LVL's

----------


## Pulse

2nd that - look up hyspan -cheap and dimensionally stable 
cheers
pulse

----------


## askaholic

Thanks guys, 
I was under the impression LVL's were more expensive, so perhaps I was mistaken!!! 
Any thoughts on F8 graded timber for using as bearers and joists? 
Cheers :Smilie:

----------


## dukekamaya

Is the F8 hardwood or softwood? - if its hardwood it will be rubbish. We only sell F11 or F14 unseasoned for those who still choose to use it.
As said 100x45 and 100x75 LVL 'Red Alert' (or similar)  bearers and joists are the only way to go. 100% straight and seasoned. Your F8 unseasoned stuff will shrink giving you an uneven floor. They are also all termite treated as standard (as are all LVL,LGL and I-Joist products)

----------


## askaholic

The LVL 'Red Alert' 100 x 75  is only sold in NSW so no help to me down in Melbourne. 
hey Duke you say you sell the F11 & F14 to those who still use it. If not the LVL's What is the main timber you find used for bearers & joists for single story residentials?....Is the F17 hardwood 90 x 90mm common? 
Also are LVL's more expensive than using Timber, Can't seem to find any pricing on the Internet. 
Cheers :Smilie:

----------


## ringtail

To give you an idea. 150 x 45 H 3 LVL $ 11.23 + GST / LM
200 x 63 H 3 LVL  $ 21.23 + GST / LM 
150 x 50 F17 Unseasoned HWD $ 15.55 + GST / LM   ( ironbark)
200 x 75 F 17 Unseasoned HWD  $ 41.00 + GST / LM ( ironbark) 
Ive gone the LVL's because I cant afford any shrinkage ( joining into an existing deck) - the cost factor, perfection and H3 treating are all bonuses. As for the durability ( deck bearers and joists) time will tell. I have coated them with bitumen compound and I'm using joist protectors so they should be fine.

----------


## johnstonfencing

> The LVL 'Red Alert' 100 x 75  is only sold in NSW so no help to me down in Melbourne. 
> hey Duke you say you sell the F11 & F14 to those who still use it. If not the LVL's What is the main timber you find used for bearers & joists for single story residentials?....Is the F17 hardwood 90 x 90mm common? 
> Also are LVL's more expensive than using Timber, Can't seem to find any pricing on the Internet. 
> Cheers

  Just for the info of askaholic and those interested, Red Alert LVLs are available in Melbourne. I was in Mitre 10 Chelsea Heights and they have brochures at the counter for ordering but not in stock on the shelves.  I have also noticed at Bunnings a Red LVL on the shelves but not 100% sure if they were Red Alert or not, will look next time. 
The head office for Tilling Timber, who supply Red Alert, are also in Kilsyth in Victoria. 
Cheers

----------


## dukekamaya

> The LVL 'Red Alert' 100 x 75 is only sold in NSW so no help to me down in Melbourne. 
> hey Duke you say you sell the F11 & F14 to those who still use it. If not the LVL's What is the main timber you find used for bearers & joists for single story residentials?....Is the F17 hardwood 90 x 90mm common? 
> Also are LVL's more expensive than using Timber, Can't seem to find any pricing on the Internet. 
> Cheers

  Yes the LVLs will cost a little more than the hardwood but the benefits far outweigh the price difference. We sell F11 and F14 unseasoned hardwood occasionally for bearers and joists though most use the LVLs and I-Joists these days.
When you say F17 hardwood 90x90 I'm not sure if your asking about seasoned or unseasoned hardwood as F17 can be either. That being said 90x90 solid is not available kiln-dried (seasoned) rather it is available nail-laminated (2/90x45)
We don't sell much seasoned F17 is NSW mostly F27

----------


## askaholic

Thanks for everyone's input, live not to far from Tilling so will go down there and start my LVL research... 
Thanks guys

----------


## dukekamaya

> Thanks for everyone's input, live not to far from Tilling so will go down there and start my LVL research... 
> Thanks guys

  They have a freecall number for tech info as well as free download of design software

----------


## wombat200

F8 for a floor? As it's a timber frame & trussed roof, your whole house will be supported on the floor - around the edge. Do you really want to skimp here? 
My extension that I am currently owner-building was speced with 90x70 bearers & 90x45 joists, all in MGP 10 (pine), i have up-specced to 17 KD hardwood, for durability - I will also be using joist protection under the wet areas.... I don't want to be fixing it down the track & this hold the whole frame up, so up-speccing is far safer...

----------


## Pulse

Hey Wombat, 
If you want to spend extra on KD hardwood (most not plantation grown) that's your choice.. your house, your money. 
Houses are generally built out of pine now, it is cheaper, environmentally sound and "safe". It is not "skimping". Can;'t think of any builder who would frame a house with hardwood in the belief it makes a better house. Anyway, just thought I'd give people a balanced view. 
BTW welcome to the forum 
Cheers
Pulse

----------


## wombat200

Most surveyors, architects & designers will - when pressed - admit that pine FLOORING TIMBERS (not wall framing) is only used to save money. Like many things in the building industry (at least in Vic) cost saving is the main reason it's popular. 
When my truss man (who supplied my flooring timber as well) looked at the plans, he started to very diplomaticly suggest that I consider hardwood - I had to cut him off & insist on it. There is no substitue as far as I am concerned - unless I guess your budget is tight. I'd use LVL's before using MGP10. 
Hardwood is more durable (longer-lasting), stronger (better load carrying capacity & bigger spans = less timber), and in many cases IS actually plantation grown. 
But yes, you're right - My house, my choice. It iss also my choice on customers work for the same reasons. I intend to be in this place for a long time & I don't intend fixing it it 10, 15, 20 years time.... 
BTW - I'm not new, just don't come here often....

----------

