# Forum Home Renovation Flooring  Difference in Radiata or Baltic as Flooring

## tcf

Hi all. 
I am new to this and new to the house renovating game. Having recently purchased an 1854 timber cottage I am into removing the old boards (an some chipboard) and relaying some sort of pine (in keeping with character). 
My question is, what is the overstanding differences between radiata and baltic pine floorboards? As I'm on a budget the radiata is half the price of baltic, why? 
Any help is greatly appreciated 
Cheers

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## rrobor

My advice for what its worth is when you are renovating or building your house never ever make cheapness the first priority. We accepted a carpet layed with a dog leg in the pattern cos we got a discount on it. We regretted that for 10 years. Back to your question Baltic is 10 times better. Radiata would be OK if you were layingcarpet over it etc.

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## tcf

Thanks Rrobor. Why is that the case? Are they simply different species of pine or some other reason? 
Also, as the house is so old and has been extended at some point, the front rooms of the house (the 1854 part) are on joists running laterally (left to right looking from front of house), but the extended part has joists running longitudinally (front to rear). Will it look 'odd' if i simply floor to the joists or should i invest in re-setting new joists between the existing joists using joist hangers and new timber? The old joists seem ok from what I can see under the house. The two rooms are separated by a standard size doorway.

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## Dusty

In keeping with the era of the house the best bet would be to source out secondhand Baltic Pine. 
Or, even better, if you are removing all the flooring - as your post suggests, then why not replace the entire floor with secondhand Tasmanian Oak flooring and bypass the Pine species altogether? That way you'll have a much tougher, better looking floor than either Baltic, or Radiata could offer. 
To your original question. There are considerable differences between the Radiata and the Baltic Pines. The Radiata has much larger knots and is a far more open grained timber. The Baltic, on the other hand, has more knots, but of a smaller size, with a tighter, harder looking grain. 
Both are as soft as a decent beer chit and the best way to counter that is to have them finished with three coats of two pac polyurethane, which offers both the best in durability and gives the timber a decent chance of showing any depth of colour and grain. 
If you were doing your price comparisons between _new_ Baltic and _new_ Radiata I can understand the big cost difference. However, be aware that _new_ Baltic is virtually white in colour and looks shocking. The good news is that it only takes some 50 to 60 years for it to oxidize and darken off to a decent honey patina, even better if you leave it a 100 years then it really looks the goods. (Which is why I suggested secondhand earlier in the post)  
Keep us all posted.

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## tcf

Dusty cheers for your in depth inisght, much appreciated. 
If you have a moment would you mind typing this item no:160370252554 into FleaBay to let me know if these are some decent looking secondhand T/Oak boards? They are 115x19mm with some sort of residual polish on, which would be OK if i was not to sand for a couple months after laying? 
Do you have a view or any ideas as to the dilemma I have with the joists as posted above? Don't really want to change joist direction as walls are not exactly square either as you'd expect for 1854 timber cottage.I propose to just run the boards laterally inthe front room and longitudinally in the rear room.

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## rrobor

yep parhaps Im the wrong person here, pine just aint me  As to your east west  then north south issue, I would define a break at the door with a different wood,  I would maintain the colour of the wood Id use but have it totally different grain, IE a tazzy oak step etc.

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## Dusty

Had a squizz at the timber. It looks fine.....But, at $2520.00 for the buy it now price and then _you_ have to somehow get that lot back to Geelong. To me that sounds like a lot of work. 
Give this mob a go Urban Salvage
Not only will they have what you need they will also get it to you, which is a good thing. 
The pricing should be around about the same as the lot on eBay above.

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## tcf

Thanks Dusty, I only need approx. 42sqm and at $35 a square metre plus delivery all the way from melbourne to geelong for $150 it added up to about $1600, does this sound reasonable? I have no idea about second hand boards. 
Also, when laying secondhand boards do i use the same nail holes with a larger gauge nail? it may be difficult with this old home as the joist centres are closer to 500mm. Only option I guess will be to add new joists (may be easier to level the floor with new timber a little bit above the old joists. 
Cheers again

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## Dusty

Well.....how's this. 
The link I just provided you to Urban Salvage is the same mob who is selling that lot on eBay. So, if you're interested in that batch of timber I'm reckoning that you should be able to wrangle in some _free_ delivery to your front door, as it looks like they're pretty keen to off load it. 
So, go to Urban Salvage click on products, then click on the star like banner in the middle of the page, which will take you to the bargain basement timbers, scroll down a little bit and there is your batch of Tassie Oak. 
So, rather than buy it through eBay simply buy it direct from the timber yard and haggle like a nut-job to get the delivery for free.

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## Dusty

> Thanks Dusty, I only need approx. 42sqm and at $35 a square metre plus delivery all the way from melbourne to geelong for $150 it added up to about $1600, does this sound reasonable? I have no idea about second hand boards. 
> Also, when laying secondhand boards do i use the same nail holes with a larger gauge nail? it may be difficult with this old home as the joist centres are closer to 500mm. Only option I guess will be to add new joists (may be easier to level the floor with new timber a little bit above the old joists. 
> Cheers again

  No use, or actually, make new holes as you nail the floor down. The sander will just have a bit more filling to do during the job - which will be no big deal for him (or at least shouldn't be)

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## rrobor

You know this forum amazes me, Here is an ordinary bloke trying to survive fixing up his house. He asks a question and he gets a pro like Dusty look over a pile of wood and give advice for free. How good is that.

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## Dusty

Good onya, rrobor. 
For me, it's actually good to be back in the swing of things as we have just endured some massive family illness type stuff which pretty much knocked everyone for a six. So, it's good to be back online talkin' bout floors and the like. 
Beats being a patient and a nurse - all at once.

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## tcf

Ye cheers Dusty you're a champ!!! 
So i purchased the secondhand 115x19 T/Oak boards today. Delivery on Monday, just cant wait to unload the pack from the nature strip and then the days of laying them  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):  
Will post some before and after pics as the process unfolds and starts in 3 weeks.

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## GraemeCook

Hi TCF 
My house is not quite as old as yours - only 1870's - but it has Tas Oak floors and baltic pine for the brightwork - skirtings, doors, architraves, etc.  The baltic and Tas oak look great together.   I think you have chosen well. 
In old houses it was common practice to run flooring along the passage and in the same direction in side rooms.   Verandahs and rear work rooms (read servants' domain) often had the floor running 90* to rest of house.   Looks OK and was a period feature.    With your place it could be a major job to re-lay joists in added-on section.  Its hard to say more without seeing it. 
The best time to sand yor new floor is just after laying - before you move any furniture or anything in - otherwise you will be double or triple handling everything, and tempted to take short cuts. 
Welcome to the world of renovations! 
Cheers 
Graeme

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## namtrak

> ......
> So i purchased the secondhand 115x19 T/Oak boards today. Delivery on Monday, just cant wait to unload the pack from the nature strip........

  Make sure to get it unpacked and racked straight away.  No point tempting the weather!

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