# Forum Home Renovation Waterproofing  2nd Bathroom Waterproofing Wonders

## Jemma

So, the builders tiler up & left on a 'family emergency' overseas the day before he was to start our tiling job!
He water proofed the shower area with the yellow stuff & only one coat.
Is he supposed to do the whole floor as other tilers have come to quote telling me the entire floor in the bathroom should be water proofed over the screed, incase of cracked tiles & water getting in when being mopped or someone getting out of the shower etc etc.
I understand he may have come back to do another coat of waterproofing in the shower over the area he has done, but should the entire floor be pasted in waterproofing over the screed like I think it should? 
Also, builder has used normal gyprock in my laundry, including the one wall with 2 sets of taps coming from it (washing machine & dishwasher).
I have asked him THREE TIMES if he should have used blue board & he states no, because even if there is a water leak in the wall or whatever, you'd have to rip off the gyprock to fix it or the blue board if he'd used it. 
I can't find anywhere that states it must be used but he's painted the wall now & I'm really pissy about it NOT being a waterproof board.
He thinks the splash back tiles is enough?
HELP PLEASE!

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## David.Elliott

Really Jemma, you are in the wars... 
Not really qualified to comment but my understanding is that the entire floor should be done up to 150mm (?) up the wall. Two coats are required as well, one applied at 90 degrees to the other. 
Possibly gyprock will be ok for that wall, but I'd expect something better just in case.  He's right in that if theres a leak he'd have to remove either, but in day to day stuff , like an overflowing washing machine or similar you'd be better with blue board...

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## phild01

Don't you guys mean Villaboard?  Blueboard, as I understand, is a blue primed external cladding FC. 
Do you know if the plasterboard he used is wet area rated.  Personally I don't like the stuff and would want Villaboard.

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## Gaza

> Don't you guys mean Villaboard?  Blueboard, as I understand, is a blue primed external cladding FC. 
> Do you know if the plasterboard he used is wet area rated.  Personally I don't like the stuff and would want Villaboard.

  Wet area, plasterboard is blue thus the blue board,  
Agree fc blue board is external   
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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## Jemma

> Wet area, plasterboard is blue thus the blue board,  
> Agree fc blue board is external   
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  It was a blue coloured gyprock?? I installed villa board myself behind my kitchen cabinet/sink area when I saw it was ruined previously by a leak. 
I rang him & asked about the waterproofing & he said yes he's coating the whole floor & 15cm up the walls.
He hasn't even put a coat of waterproofing near the taps etc in the laundry. Just plain standard gyprock :/

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## Jemma

I @@@@ you not, my tiler just arrived (2 hours late) & when I asked him if he's waterproofing my bathroom floor his response was "The glue make waterproof. Not need do floor"
Me:  :Eek:  
"Can you waterproof the ENTIRE floor & 15cm up the edges of the walls. "Yes I go to Bunnings & get more"
He has come back with a 1L container of waterproofer for a 1.5 x 2.5m bathroom!  :Annoyed:

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## barney118

> I @@@@ you not, my tiler just arrived (2 hours late) & when I asked him if he's waterproofing my bathroom floor his response was "The glue make waterproof. Not need do floor"
> Me:  
> "Can you waterproof the ENTIRE floor & 15cm up the edges of the walls. "Yes I go to Bunnings & get more"
> He has come back with a 1L container of waterproofer for a 1.5 x 2.5m bathroom!

  Sounds like you would have Ben better DIY whole project what's wrong down there?  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## Jemma

> Sounds like you would have Ben better DIY whole project what's wrong down there?

  If I knew how to do it properly I would.
I read the 1L container instructions & it has 1L is enough to do 1m2 of wall OR .5m2 of floor (2 coat).  He used 1L for the entire floor!  :Doh:  
He ran out near the door & when I asked if he was getting more he said 'Don't need too' I then told him to start the laundry floor & I would buy more. He said get another 1L tub.
PFFFFT! I bought 4L rapid set & a corner flexible fabric piece as well as a roll to do the shower floor & corner of the shower wall up to 1.8m as per instructions. 
I rang my builder whilst I was there telling him I'm not happy that I'm having to do this. He will re emburse me for the materials & I will re waterproof it tonight as I don't trust this tiler.
Whilst I was at it I told him I'm STILL not happy that the laundry wall has standard gyprock on it.
His solution?
He's going to paste a square of waterproofing around the taps....  :Shock:

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## Uncle Bob

Geez Jemma, sounds like got you Dodgey Bros Building Services PTY LTD working there  :Frown:

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## Dimi

Basically the acrylic waterproof membrane is what will stop any water from getting sponged up by your substrate under the tiles because no grout is water proof and it does tend to craze. Some tiles aren't water proof either, it's mostly the porcelain or glaze on top that is. I would put 3 light coats with gause in between any corners and up the walls wherever the tiles will go. By water proofing properly it won't mater what substrate is behind. I wouldn't worry about the aquachek plaster it's not much diferent. Cement sheet is better but overkill for your application. They never used to waterproof in the old days which is why they used cement sheet a lot. Make sure the membrane is not to thick and dries between coats otherwise it will crack. Going up the walls as high as your tile boarder or skirting above floor level is fine as you are basically making a pan for the water that goes through the grout when mopping and general humidity in wet area. I hope this helps. The most important thing is to also use gause around the fossets exetera and silicone any breaches. Nothing can get past the membrane to the substrate. Also make sure tile glue is compatible to the acrylic waterproofing.

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## Renopa

Barney and Uncle Bob, all I can say is that's the type of thing you get from most tradies across all trades!!  Having built a house and then reno'd current one in the last couple of years, it's a nightmare....unless you can do 'all' the work yourself.  Before anyone jumps up and down, all I say is 'try it'....set up a fictitious quote preferably with a female occupant at the house and you'll see what happens.  In saying that, I'm not proposing that 'all' tradies are like this but a huge number of them are...some will admit it once they've been discovered and they will all blame someone else.   
This is not meant as a personal attack on anyone in this forum, I would hope every tradie here is in the minority.  
Jemma, read the instructions on the waterproofing label because afaik it had to be perfectly dry before tiling over....the tiler I used left it dry 3 days but that was during Winter.   
;-))

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## Jemma

> Basically the acrylic waterproof membrane is what will stop any water from getting sponged up by your substrate under the tiles because no grout is water proof and it does tend to craze. Some tiles aren't water proof either, it's mostly the porcelain or glaze on top that is. I would put 3 light coats with gause in between any corners and up the walls wherever the tiles will go. By water proofing properly it won't mater what substrate is behind. I wouldn't worry about the aquachek plaster it's not much diferent. Cement sheet is better but overkill for your application. They never used to waterproof in the old days which is why they used cement sheet a lot. Make sure the membrane is not to thick and dries between coats otherwise it will crack. Going up the walls as high as your tile boarder or skirting above floor level is fine as you are basically making a pan for the water that goes through the grout when mopping and general humidity in wet area. I hope this helps. The most important thing is to also use gause around the fossets exetera and silicone any breaches. Nothing can get past the membrane to the substrate. Also make sure tile glue is compatible to the acrylic waterproofing.

  He used a fabric stuff in the corner but on the bottom edge & shower middle where the walls meet, it has to have a silicone component to it to allow for gyprocl movement.
The plain fabric stuff doesn't allow for this & will tear if there's enough movement.
The floor is solid concrete then screed over the top.
I would rather overkill than not enough & learning the hard way :/

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## OBBob

At least you'll have some war stories and a real attachment to that bathroom! It'll be with it I'm sure.

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## Dimi

Fair enough. The gauze is applied while acrylic is wet and then each subsequent coat on top of that like when jointing tape is used on plaster. It acts similar to fibre glass in a sense as it helps bind the layers together. It will most likely acts as one membrane and stretch. There is also a rubber one you can buy which allows for extra movement. I think Gripset sell allot of this stuff amongst other brands. P.S I assume the entire shower walls and all have been waterproofed? Just mentioning this as some people only go half way up in a shower niche and you really do have to do the lot.

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## Dimi

good luck with it all by the way

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## UseByDate

> The floor is solid concrete then screed over the top.

  If it is a concrete floor I don't think it has to be waterproofed. The standard states that the floor of a bathroom has to be water resistant. A concrete floor is considered water resistant. Wall to floor junctions have to be waterproofed. 
 Take a look at the following guide (page 10 Table 1)  http://www.jameshardie.com.au/upload...ber%202012.pdf 
 I am sure a professional waterproofer will correct me if I am wrong.

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## Dimi

You might be correct but the waterproofing acts like a membrane. If you don't have a hole membrane like a pan and just do the corners you wont have done anything. Water and damp will get under the membrane and travel. Concrete is a sponge. I've worked on many sites that are on slab here in Victoria and the pro's always do the lot. There are instances where you put a first primer coat for rising damp too.

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## Jemma

Before and after waterproofing.

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## Random Username

Image below is from the National Construction Code of Australia 2012 - for "Other areas" like laundries.

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## OBBob

Lol ... it's like the kids got in there with their paints!

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## Dimi

I cant see. Is your wast pipe inside another pipe or in straight in the cement?

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## Jemma

Dimi. You mean the toilet waste pipe?
There looks to be some sort of rubber seal from the ground then another huge pipe shoved in that.

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## Dimi

> Image below is from the National Construction Code of Australia 2012 - for "Other areas" like laundries.

  Sorry but is this table saying not to waterproof a cement floor but to waterproof penetrations and up the walls to 150mm only? On the sites I've worked on in Victoria they do the whole floor and sufficiently around bathtubs and showers at least up to shoulder height (I did my shower to the ceiling). Might not be a requirement though. If the corners of the room were done and damp/water could freely enter the cement floor through the grout, it would just pass under and reach the adjoining rooms over years of hot showers and the occasional mop causing rising damp no? And that's if there's no leaks. If you imagine the cement literally as a sponge what would happen if it soaked up water and the walls which are sealed up to 150mm don't retain anything like a pan?  Am I being an idiot?  F1.11 has much more stringent regulations I wonder why?

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## Dimi

> Dimi. You mean the toilet waste pipe?
> There looks to be some sort of rubber seal from the ground then another huge pipe shoved in that.

  Can't really see pics well. Sorry. I do know that pipes coming through  a slab can crack and all pipes should be inside another bigger pipe to prevent any issues. I'm quite new to forums so please tell me if I'm rambling

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## Random Username

> Sorry but is this table saying not to waterproof....

  It says that it is not mandatory to waterproof other wet areas (which is areas other than defined areas such as the shower area, the area outside the shower area and areas adjacent to baths and spas) except as detailed in the table.  ie floor must be water resistant (concrete is), floor and wall junctions must be waterproofed, and penetrations must be waterproofed if they penetrate surfaces required to be waterproof.  
F1.11 is for wet areas that are essentially not on ground level - ie they are above other habitable space - if you have an upstairs bathroom/laundry the floor must be graded to a floor drain, and having a floor drain means you must have a waterproof floor. 
It's all detailed in the National Construction Code which will be available for free from the 1st Feb 2015 - ABCB - Home

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## Oldsaltoz

Lets try and clear this up.
A concrete slab on the ground does not need waterproofing. other that the wall to floor interface plus the shower area0.
A concrete slab, timber, or cement sheet or floor that is above the ground (has a space under it) Must be fully waterproofed including the wall to floor interface and Puddle flanges installed on waste outlets. this includes suspended or upper level floors. 
All showers Must have bond breakers at the wall to floor interface.
All wet rooms Must have a water stop in the doorway and the waterproofing around the walls should continue to this point.
All fixing nails inside the shower must be sealed.
Tap and shower spigots Must be sealed. 
All wet areas Must a water proof (WR) rated sheeting on all walls.
Villaboard is the best product in my opinion. 
Take lots of pictures or each stage. 
You should advise you so called contractor that you plan to have the area inspected at each stage be the local authority at your expense, this will keep the Barstuards honest. 
I would have it inspected and terminate any agreement you have and hope you have not paid him anything. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## Dimi

Hi Oldsaltoz- should be sleeping but 10 month old is up. Anyway. Definitly right about the money. never pay anyone much until the jobs done correctly. for my own benefit as much as everyone else's- (all building minimum regulation aside) do you really not waterproof the entire floor of a bathroom if it is on a slab? I understood the table but I was making a point. If there is a dwelling or not under the cement floor, why waterproof one and not the other? If water seeping down to your neighbors ceiling isn't an issue because you are on ground level, can't the moisture telegraph to outside the perimeter of the bathroom walls? Like under the bottom plates and into the underlay or floating floor of the next room? Or is this unlikely? I can't remember going to a slab floor site and the whole floor wasn't primed and waterproofed. My tiler buddy does do what you suggested on the mass production housing in new areas though. One bucket does five houses! BTW I'm asking for your advice on the best way not just minimum reg.  P.S inquisitive by nature

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## Oldsaltoz

> Hi Oldsaltoz- should be sleeping but 10 month old is up. Anyway. Definitly right about the money. never pay anyone much until the jobs done correctly. for my own benefit as much as everyone else's- (all building minimum regulation aside) 
>  do you really not waterproof the entire floor of a bathroom if it is on a slab? I understood the table but I was making a point. If there is a dwelling or not under the cement floor, why waterproof one and not the other?  There is no requirement or need to waterproof a ground floor slab other than the wall to floor to interface joint and any shower. Doing the full floor that sits on the ground is just wasting your money. 
> If water seeping down to your neighbours ceiling isn't an issue because you are on ground level, can't the moisture telegraph to outside the perimeter of the bathroom walls? Like under the bottom plates and into the underlay or floating floor of the next room? Or is this unlikely? I can't remember going to a slab floor site and the whole floor wasn't primed and waterproofed.   Any slab above ground Must be fully waterproofed, that's full floor and full flashings at wall to floor interface joints. 
> My tiler buddy does do what you suggested on the mass production housing in new areas though. One bucket does five houses! BTW I'm asking for your advice on the best way not just minimum reg.  P.S inquisitive by nature

  I am constantly reminding people that the *Australian Standards are the minimum requirements*. You are free to more than the Standards require but Not Less. 
So, using a non (WR) rated sheet in you laundry is not the standard and Must be replaced as should any other wall sheets in that room if they do not meet the standards. 
I hope helps to clear any confusion. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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