# Forum Home Renovation Waterproofing  Sleepers on soil, how to waterproof

## davidp

Hi, 
I'm paving an area under the deck. Land is slightly sloped so I need to build up the low side to level to hold the roadbase. Planning to use treated pine sleepers (200x50), vertically i.e. on their side, to make the low wall.  
Where the sleepers meet the ground, I figure I should water proof them. Particularly on the side where there is no overhang from the deck, the ground won't be dry. If the sleepers suck up water from the ground, I can't see that ending up well. 
I figure I'll need to dig them a little into the ground (20 - 50mm?) so the roadbase doesn't escape out underneath them. What sort of waterproofing would you apply to the part of the sleepers that is in contact with the soil?  
Thanks in advance,
Dave
P.S. When I did a 900mm besser block retaining wall long ago I was advised to apply this thick bituminous paint (Bitkote?) then roll out and stick this waterproofing roll of bituminous stuff, can't recall its name, and that worked well.

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## David.Elliott

If they are TP sleepers, so far as I know, nothing required...

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## r3nov8or

If the TP sleepers are H4 grade, they are treated for in-ground use and should last a very very long time without bothering with any additional treatment.   https://www.ozbreed.com.au/download/...apetimber.html 
""""" 
Table 1. Pine Hazard Ratings.  *Hazard Rating*  *Exposure*  *Conditions*  *Biological Hazard*  *Uses *         *H1*  Inside above ground. Completely protected from weather and well-ventilated. Insects other than termites. Framing, flooring, furniture and interior joinery.    *H2*  Inside above Ground. Completely protected from the weather well-ventilated. Borers including termites. Framing, flooring, furniture and interior joinery    *H3*  Outside, above ground applications. Subject periodic moderate wetting and leaching. Moderate decay, borers and termites. Weatherboard, fascia, decking, joists.    *H4*  Outside, In Ground. Subject to severe wetting and leaching. Severe decay, borers and termites. Fencing, greenhouses, pergolas, landscaping. _Eg; Small non structural retaining walls._     *H5*  Outside, In Ground, in contact with or in fresh water. Subject to extreme wetting and leaching and / or where the critical use requires a higher degree of protection. Very severe decay, borers, termites. Structural retaining walls, piling, house stumps, building poles, cooling towers fill.    *H6*  Marine Water. Subject to prolonged immersion in sea water. Marine wood borers and decay. Boat hulls, marine piling, jetty cross bracing, landing steps.   *
The expected life span of landscape products if the correct Hazard  Rating is chosen is 40+ years.* Therefore what you are about to do will  last almost a life time so ensure you do it right. Note: when you cut  any treated timber product it is a requirement to reseal the cuts with  an approved product to maintain your guarantee. 
""""" 
Of course, YMMV, as others will probably confirm!

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## davidp

They are the standard Treated Pine sleepers from Bunnings. Is that the TP you meant? 
Edit: don't know the H rating but will go there and check. 
Thanks for the quick update!

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## r3nov8or

> They are the standard Treated Pine sleepers from Bunnings. Is that the TP you meant? 
> Edit: don't know the H rating but will go there and check. 
> Thanks for the quick update!

   There should be a tag stapled to the end of each board. H4 should be mentioned

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## Optimus

Get some redgum sleepers instead

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## Moondog55

H4 will outlast redgum by 10 to 20 years Bunnings sleepers are H4

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## davidp

Thanks for that confirmation Moondog, good to hear. 
With the sleeper sitting on the concrete around the post, it is above the level of the surrounding ground. 
I'm not sure whether I should cut away the bottom of the sleeper, to bring it down to the ground level, or to somehow raise the ground level so the roadbase does not slip out from under the sleeper.  
Cutting away the sleeper means there would be a cut section of timber, without the treatment protection. I tried to find how to re-protect timber myself but my google-fu deserted me.  
Otherwise, how would I best stop the roadbase escaping if the timber is a bit above the ground? 
PS the green posts are steel, so no problems with them.

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## davidp

Ah, think i worked it out. I should make a concrete run or channel in the ground under the timber, same width, to build it up to the same height as the timber. Box it up, pour in concrete, use the timber as a level guide, easy. 
D'oh, don't know why didn't think of that before. Then no need to cut timber.  
Thank you all for the assistance with the H4 and all that. Really appreciate it. What a great forum this is. Cheers guys.

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## Moondog55

Maybe I should change my post slightly in retrospect
"Where I live, given my  soil conditions" H4 will outlast redgum. In other parts of Oz they my be equal or redgum may be better, but either way you have plenty of life in the timber

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