# Forum Home Renovation Roofing  Removing eaves and attach patio?

## Dutchie

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>  <w:WordDocument>   <w:View>Normal</w:View>   <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>   <w:PunctuationKerning/>   <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>   <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>   <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>   <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>   <w :Cry: ompatibility>    <w :Blush7: reakWrappedTables/>    <w:SnapToGridInCell/>    <w:WrapTextWithPunct/>    <w :Biggrin: seAsianBreakRules/>    <w :Biggrin: ontGrowAutofit/>   </w :Cry: ompatibility>   <w :Blush7: rowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w :Blush7: rowserLevel>  </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>  <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156">  </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style>  /* Style Definitions */  table.MsoNormalTable     {mso-style-name:"Table Normal";     mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;     mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;     mso-style-noshow:yes;     mso-style-parent:"";     mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;     mso-para-margin:0in;     mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;     mso-pagination:widow-orphan;     font-size:10.0pt;     font-family:"Times New Roman";     mso-ansi-language:#0400;     mso-fareast-language:#0400;     mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->  We replacing an old wooden patio cover which is attached to the fascia a 30 year old brick veneer house. Our first thought was to go with a fly-over attached to the roof with extenda-brackets. Using some rails we saw this fly-over would extend over the roof by 3.5 roof tiles and it somehow doesnt look right. 
  The eaves are 600mm and they are pretty low 2300. They give the feeling the house is real low. 
  So we are wondering if it might be an option to remove the eaves (see attached drawing) and connect the insulated patio panels at a point above the bricks.
  We would need to remove the fascia board, cut the truss back 600, reattach the fascia board to the truss, attach C-channel to the fascia, slide in the insulated panels, etc.. 
  We see two issues, -          does this impact the roof? (the trusses span 8 meter width of the house in one go). We take two rows of tiles away that now act as weight, but we don't think the impact will be significant to the total roof.   -          Water tightness. The C-channel acts as barrier, so does the fascia board. Probably we would need to add a flashing between the tiles and panels, and some tar/silastic but we think it should be doable to get it water tight.  
  I have drawn to scenarios. 
  The C-channel above the brick (1 and 1A detail) probably has most water incursion risk.
  The drawings 2 and 2A with the fascia outside the brick wall looks pretty water safe to me.  
  Any opinions on the feasibility of this idea? If it is possible it would look a lot better than a fly-over and also the low ceiling effect caused by the eaves would be removed.

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## jiggy

2 or 2a would work as long as there is a decent fall on the new extension and as you mention a good flashing.

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## goldie1

Your "as is" sketch doesn't look right. The brick work should only go to the hight of  
the soffit lining you would have to add a couple of courses of bricks Allso the fascia isn't strong enough to fix your C channel to. 
You would have to attach solid framing to the back of it attached to trimmers fixed to the top chord of your trusses 
If you don't have a decent fall on the patio roof strong winds will blow rain up into the C channel even if you turn the ends of the roof sheets up. This will then run down inside the insulation ( I presume this is Solarspan or some thing similar) 
To fix this you need a flashing cut to the profile of the roof sheet and sealed in between the top part of the C channel and the roof sheets 
Allso 1980 brick veneer soffit lining ( thats the bit up under the eaves) is proberbly asbestos

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## Dutchie

Thanks for your opinion, 
I removed some roof tiles to have a detail look. We indeed need two extra courses of bricks. Ultimately the walls will be rendered anyway so any brick will do.
Do you think we will need some extra tie-ins to the house frame with two extra courses? 
We didn't decide yet on the brand of insulated panels, but we are looking at Solaris type 75 or 100 thick (trimdek topside / flat bottom).
Using a flashing to close the valleys of the trimdek to prevent blow-back of water getting into the C channel makes sense. We have seen foam type of inserts, any experience with their longevity? I read somewhere on the Reno-forum about profiled metal flashing, guess we need to hunt these down, or get the tin snips out again. 
I once asked a builder about our soffit lining and he didn't think it was asbestos. But thanks for reminding me. I will carefully remove a sheets and have a better look, or post a photo in the asbestos thread here.

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## goldie1

Not sure about your bricks perhaps you could put the question on the brick laying section 
I have only ever used metal to seal of the valleys. If you can't buy it its easy to cut to the trimdeck profile.This is a common problem 
as a lot of these types of roofs are fitted with a fairly low pitch and when the water gets into the foam it rusts the ceiling panel from  
the inside.The water tends to run down the panel junctions. With a house built before the mid 80s its most likely the soffit lining is  
asbestos. 
With a lot of these roofs the C channel is just screwed to the ends of the trusses This isn't sufficient. There is a lot of uplift force 
on it.

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## PeteV

the general rule of thumb is that you will require some face fixing veneer ties for your brickwork. i always like to have them two courses from the top. hope this helps!

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## Ken-67

You need to take other issues into consideration. You will have to block off berween the top of the facia and the underside of the tiles, otherwise you are going to get birds, vemin etc in your roof. You need to consider how you are going to stop the gutters where you cut it away, and whether you will need another downpipe at tha stopped ends.You need to consider how to finish the ends of the eaves cut offs, which will come below the new roofline.

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## Dutchie

PeteV and Ken-67. Thanks for the tips. 
We want to push the fascia up so it touches the tiles (or fill it with an extra piece of wood). Another down pipe was already planned for. With regards to the end of the remaining eaves: we are still debating if we might replace all the remaining eaves at that side of the house with a short 'patiocover' of 1500 to create a covered walkway / larger eaves.

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