# Forum Home Renovation Structural Renovation  How to replace weatherboards?

## good thanx

Hi I'm thinking of replacing a few rotten timber weatherboards. Just wondering if its a simple job or much more. If anyone has any tips or information that thinks would help me, it would be much appreciated.

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## Terrian

the joys of replacing boards. 
As it happens I have just removed, stripped, repainted and replaced 28 boards here (needed to add insulation & sisalation) 
if it is just 1 or 2 boards, be prepared to break more. You need to start at the top board and work your way down, carefully. Nails used seem to mostly be 50mm long, so trying to lever a board high enough to slide the lower board out almost always results in the 1st board splitting. 
We used a jemmy bar and large flat blade screwdriver, you need to find the studs and lever the boards there, never between studs. 
It is a simple job, you just need lots of paintence and go slow. Also a good idea to have a few spare boards ready for replacing those that will most likely get broken along the way (I bought 4x 4.4m & 4x3.2m for $100 from a second hand dealer) 
Good luck.

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## GraemeCook

Agree with Terrian. 
However, before you start make sure that you have some replacement weatherboards with *exactly* the same profile as the old ones.   Any variance will be very obvious and make the finished job look odd. 
Also, its easier to prime and undercoat the new boards before you place them. 
Long boards are awkward to hold so I usually mark where each board is to go then drive two temporary nails as board rests.     
You only have to nail the bottom of each board as that nail goes through the top of the board thats being overlapped. 
Cheers 
Graeme

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## glock40sw

G'day. I used a long bladed metal blade in my Sabre saw to cut the nails off.
It was long enough to reach up under the W/B to the nails. Didn't break a single board.
When the new board was placed, it was nailed as normal.

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## Terrian

> G'day. I used a long bladed metal blade in my Sabre saw to cut the nails off.
> It was long enough to reach up under the W/B to the nails. Didn't break a single board.
> When the new board was placed, it was nailed as normal.

  bugger, now I wish I had thought of that, will file that one away for later use, got another *500million lm to remove, insulate, strip, repaint to go.       
* ok, maybe not quite that much, but it sure seems that way  :Smilie:

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## Terrian

> Also, its easier to prime and undercoat the new boards before you place them.

  we (meaning me) put two coats of paint on before putting the boards back up, oh, fill old nail holes while you are at it  :Smilie:

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## Make it work

On more than one occasion, I have managed to replace only one board without removing all above or below it. 
I just pryed it up carefully at the studs with a wide flat prybar and helped it along using an old plane iron and as many flat things like paint scrapers over a few metres till the nails were out of the studs. I also partially lifted the board above the one I was replacing, 2 or 3mm, to release the top of the board I wanted to remove. 
The previous installer did not nail through the top of the lower board but throught the thickest part of the board and the check out in the upper board held the top of the board below in place, so I did the same. 
One more thing, if you are replacing one board, check the width of the new board is the same as the old, there was a lot of variance even in new boards and as much as 15mm on old ones.

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## good thanx

Thank alot guys, 
Job done and leant alot at the same time.

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