# Forum Home Renovation Doors, Windows, Architraves & Skirts  Laminated door step help

## Micky013

Hello, 
I have a situation where its likely i will need to install 3 door steps 450 wide by 1.8 long by 65 mm thick. 
The timber mill has said they will take no responsibility in the laminated join opening up if they are exposed to weather - ok by me as i understand how timber operates (to some extent). 
What i want to know is are there any mechanical connections or fixings i can use from the bottom to keep the laminated pieces together? I was thinking something like those U bolt things they use to tie laminated bench tops together at the join??  
Any ideas would be great as these steps are going to cost a bit and I want to keep them together without having to fix them to the slab. 
Cheers 
Michael

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## johnc

Have you considered two pack epoxy such as Wests or Bote Coat, waterproof, sticks to anything, gap filling properties and assuming you are placing one on top of the other just a heavy weight on top while it dries.

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## Micky013

Thanks - will look into that. Thought i would need something along the glued edge to stop it from separating. Cheers John!

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## johnc

As you have no diagram I have only suggested a glue, however depending on the pressures this may not be the right choice, how are these steps sitting? in a mortice? on a bearer? These are going to come all ready glued, you need to allow the timber to move so the joint doesn't become stressed and pull apart through shrinkage, you may do better having a biscuit or domino join then glued with a water proof PVA. Your laminated method may not be the best method, if you need to reinforce a join you are using the wrong method.

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## Micky013

Laminating will be done by the timber company but they cant guarantee it if exposed to weather. It will come to me as a slab, door frame will be either rebated in and fixed from underneath or traditional mortise and tenon to connect to the step.  The step will sit directly on the slab. It will be well seasoned already and the slab is flat - no rebate. Was planning on putting some thick beads of silicon on the slab before setting the frame in. Hope that helps to paint a picture for you.

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## Micky013

They will be glued on edge just to be clear. Two pieces 225 wide to make one 450 wide step. Cheers

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## johnc

Wood expands and contracts across it's width but not along its length. If you used a mechanical brace it would have to be sprung somehow to keep tension on the join which you really can't do in that type of application. You can get a cabinet makers benchtop joiner which would span the join from underneath. You would need to drill a couple of holes with a suitable bit for the toggles and tighten.  
I would probably leave it as it is, go lightly on the silicone and make sure it can manage some lateral movement. That really is a very wide step, if it ends up with water siting round it or direct sun on it you may get some cupping.

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## Micky013

Cool, thank you John. In the short term it may cop some weather but it will be under a pergola at some stage. Might need some preventative measures in the meantime to keep it dry and protected from sun

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## Micky013

What are your thoughts on meranti as door frame material? It will be painted. Size will be about 260 wide by 42 thick. Timber mill suggested merbau but maybe overkill?

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## johnc

Merbau is much tougher and will last longer. There are plenty of windows and door frames made from Meranti, as long as it is properly primed and painted it should be fine. I wouldn't use Meranti as a step, I would stick to Merbau there if that is what you are using.

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## Gaza

I laminated hardwood for external use using correct glue you shouldn't have issue but I would be not happy if it's starts to twist so your construction will need to stop that from happening   
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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## Micky013

Thanks guys. Meranti would be solely for door frames and primed all round. Will see what cost comes back as.

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