# Forum Home Renovation Bathrooms  Timber benchtop in bathroom

## METRIX

So I am at the point of setting out supports for the vanities in my en-suite, I have a wall 2700 long and some cabinets left over from a job which equal 2500, I want to make a 2500 wall hung vanity from these cabinets. 
I also have a timber slab which is over 2700 long x 600 deep x 30 thick, not sure what type of wood it is, but it has a nice grain with minimal imperfections, it's quite light so was either going to leave as is, or stain it with Black Japan, the wall the vanity will be on will be a large format blue-stone / charcoal type color.  
What is the best finish to put on the timber to protect it in a bathroom environment and also withstand perfumes etc, I am after a satin finish, I am looking at some of the floor finishes as these are very hardy, something like Feast Watson Polyurethane Floorclear. 
Or would a 2-pak be better ?  Floorclear | Classic Clear Floor Finish, Gloss or Satin 
Or something like Bondall Gold Marine grade.  Bondall Monocel Gold Clear Timber Varnish

----------


## Godzilla73

I've used the Feast & Watson finish you linked too, not in a harsh environment like a bathroom but on some veneer floating shelves. It does go on very nicely and looked great after the 2 coats, didn't fill the grain too much on the American Oak. We use Mirotone 2 Pac products at work, they're also very forgiving and very fast drying. They would be able to supply a whole system including stain if you go that way and the poly sealer and top coat.

----------


## OBBob

I used a Cabot's poly in the last place and it was fine for seven + years. The only area that suffered was where the hair straightener got put down (repeatedly). If anyone in your house uses one I'd look at the racks you can get for them.  
This time I used a waterbased version because I didn't was the colour effect poly can have on timber. I put about six coats but fine will tell how it goes.

----------


## ringtail

I've had good results with cabbots clear floor. Waterbased, 3/4 coats per day, doesn't yellow. Used in bathroom on a spotty slab, kitchen servery on a spotty slab another servery kwila slab in a busy cafe.

----------


## Watters

> I also have a timber slab which is over 2700 long x 600 deep x 30 thick, not sure what type of wood it is, but it has a nice grain with minimal imperfections, it's quite light so was either going to leave as is... 
> What is the best finish to put on the timber to protect it in a bathroom environment and also withstand perfumes etc, I am after a satin finish, I am looking at some of the floor finishes as these are very hardy, something like Feast Watson Polyurethane Floorclear.

  If you have a nice piece of wood it would be a shame to hide the beautiful look of wood. I cringe everytime I see lovely wood floors or panels being covered in paint, or worse, on TV (bhg) and with no sense of aesthetics as well. 
I have an answer for you: epoxy resin (WEST SYSTEM epoxy| Products | Resins and Hardeners - WEST SYSTEM by ATL Composites).
I have used it many times e.g. on a piece of wood for the bottom of a dormer window that had dried out and was in danger of rotting - Perth heat and rain. Use a paint brush and follow the wood grain. At least two, preferably three (generous) coats. It sinks into the wood (subsequent coats build up) and leaves a clear natural finish (to which you can apply varnish afterwards as well if you want...). Use the West 207 special clear hardener with the 105 resin for a clear natural wood finish, but hey, here's their information sheet about all that:  http://www.westsystem.com.au/files/p...ystem_r105.pdf 
Suggest you try it out on a small piece of wood to see what you think of the finish etc.
You can buy the West system products from Carba-tec, 113 Station Road, Auburn, 1800 658 111 (take plenty of cash with you, you will buy lots of other things while you are there...don't say I didn't warn you, dangerous place). You can also get it at a whole bunch of other places too:  http://www.westsystem.com.au/west_sy...dealers&tab=70 
I very much doubt wood with regular varnishes, on their own, will stand up to a bathroom environment for too long. I have used Feast Watson's Weatherproof varnish in external applications (e.g. wood Settlers Hut), it's okay but I wasn't particularly fond of it and I wouldn't use it in a bathroom "on its own", even less so their FloorClear product. I have always liked Wattyl Estapol for indoor furniture so if wanting a varnish on top of the epoxy resin you could do worse than give Wattyl a call to see if they have an exterior/weatherproof clear varnish. However, I wouldn't use just a clear varnish "on its own" on wood given the harsh bathroom environment (go the epoxy resin, then a non-water based clear varnish).... 
If you want to use a stain "before" using the epoxy resin, please note the following article/study - basically use a water based preferably aniline dye based (check with stain manufacturer) stain (if you use an oil based stain "before" epoxy resin you might get adhesion issues with the epoxy resin), see the section titled "Using stains with epoxy" near the bottom of the article):  http://epoxyworks.com/index.php/varnish-over-epoxy/ 
Perfumes? Ladies use far worse things in a bathroom. Every bathroom should have a sign that reads:
"Do not use nail varnish remover in the bathroom, it will damage bathroom vanities and baths and also creates noxious fumes. Please go outside when using nail varnish remover".

----------


## havabeer

my only warning would be don't the let the missu's or the kids near it with a hair straightener or curling wand, won't take much heat to wreck it

----------


## OBBob

> my only warning would be don't the let the missu's or the kids near it with a hair straightener or curling wand, won't take much heat to wreck it

  Lol... once had to replace a toilet lid because it seemed like a good flat surface on which to rest the straightener.

----------


## METRIX

What about this one, says it resists most chemicals.  Polyurethane floor finish - commercial strength coating| UltraFloorPro 
or this product, it is used on a commercially available timber benchtop for vanities.  Treatex Traditional Hardwax Oil Matte

----------


## CraigandKate

> or this product, it is used on a commercially available timber benchtop for vanities.  Treatex Traditional Hardwax Oil Matte

  I like the sound of the Hardwax, hadn't seen that before thanks! Did you see the sample request button? I requested some to test for my flooring.

----------


## Watters

> What about this one, says it resists most chemicals.  Polyurethane floor finish - commercial strength coating| UltraFloorPro

  This looks interesting but if you want to use it with epoxy resin suggest doing a test first, particularly if wanting to use it under epoxy resin. UltraFloorPRO is water based though.
Sounds though like you aren't keen on epoxy resin. Your call.    

> or this product, it is used on a commercially available timber benchtop for vanities.  Treatex Traditional Hardwax Oil Matte

  Well, I personally wouldn't use it, it is just oil and wax: 
Linseed oil, sunflower oil, Jojoba oil, Beeswax, carnauba wax and candalilla wax... 
The "Care, cleaning and maintenance of waxed wooden floors" web page for this product isn't encouraging either. 
Some people love using decking oil on their decks, others go for varnish. Similar concept with this. Due to the nature of this product, the prospect of periodically having to recoat when it can be avoided is an anathma to me. "Whittle waxes special thinner", "Whittle waxes floor care", "Whittle waxes preparation cleaner" etc? No thanks.

----------


## METRIX

> This looks interesting but if you want to use it with epoxy resin suggest doing a test first, particularly if wanting to use it under epoxy resin. UltraFloorPRO is water based though.
> Sounds though like you aren't keen on epoxy resin. Your call. 
>  .

  I have looked into the West System and it looks good, the main concern is I don't want a glossy fake look, I am after a satin / low luster look, how would I achieve this ? 
I have never used Epoxy coatings, but always associate them with bar tops with a fake gloss, do I lightly sand the epoxy and coat with something after to give the look I am after ?

----------


## droog

Wattyl 7008, its a 2 pack finish. 
It is a high gloss finish but in our last kitchen I used it and then sanded the surface, finally a light polish with an automotive cut and polish and ended up with a matt sheen to the whole bench.  
Dont expect to find these instructions on the Wattyl site, the manufacturer warrants the product using specific instructions to limit their liability.

----------


## SilentButDeadly

Our home made vanity is solid river red gum. All the timber is merely oiled (Organoil hard burnishing oil) and then waxed...whenever. Still looks fine after seven years. 
Mind you there's not much exposed timber!  
However, our equally home made kitchen benchtops are treated the same way...

----------


## METRIX

This is the slab  I was going to use, not sure what type of timber it is. 
I have asked my mate who cut it for me to identity it as I have had it sitting around for a few years, I have asked him for a price on a piece of Camphor Laurel as the grain is fantastic on that.
I was originally going to use this slab for an inbuilt entertainment unit but never got around to having the right house to build it for.

----------


## ringtail

> I have looked into the West System and it looks good, the main concern is I don't want a glossy fake look, I am after a satin / low luster look, how would I achieve this ? 
> I have never used Epoxy coatings, but always associate them with bar tops with a fake gloss, do I lightly sand the epoxy and coat with something after to give the look I am after ?

  Nah, you'll never get a satin finish with epoxy or PR resin. Sanding, whether with wet and dry, polish, cutting compound etc... will either scratch or buff scratches out. You can put additives in the mix to make it cloudy but you don't want that. Satin clear floor is my go to finish. Easy to touch up too if required.

----------


## Watters

> I have looked into the West System and it looks good, the main concern is I don't want a glossy fake look, I am after a satin / low luster look, how would I achieve this ? 
> I have never used Epoxy coatings, but always associate them with bar tops with a fake gloss, do I lightly sand the epoxy and coat with something after to give the look I am after ?

  If you don't want to use epoxy resin that's fine, it adds extra durability (lots) and water fastness (lots). Maybe play around with epoxy resin as a side project rather than going all in with a big slab the first time. 
Ringtail is right about additives though, don't use additives with epoxy resin. 
Yes, you can use a matt or low sheen varnish on top of the epoxy resin coated wood. If you put down two or three matt or satin coats on top of the epoxy resin it will knock down the gloss level. Light sanding the top epoxy resin coat with a really fine grit paper is okay. 
It is common practice to use varnish on top of epoxy resin coated wood. The PDF article in the link in my earlier post talks about that. I tend to first put down three coats of epoxy resin followed by two or three coats of varnish (turps cleanup). The end result is the equivalent of 12 regular coats of varnish, looks awesome. 
I have used the WEST system in both residential home situations and boat building as well as boat maintenance. It's the dog's b*llocks.

----------


## mcarthur

I'm in a similar position - wanting to do timber benches in bathrooms and kitchens. I don't want the epoxy or plasticised 2-pack look (I have built timber boats so have used and know epoxy). I was going to do 3-5 layers of feast watson water-based satin, but now I'm worried how long it will last in a water-sitting environment and also take the punishment of kitchen life...
Metrix - what have you decided?
Anyone offer any thoughts?

----------


## Gany

What about something like Loba impact oil? We used a sample from a floor supply store on our toilet floor. We havent fit off yet so no long term testing but is a satin finish (we dont like the fake plastic look either): HS 2K ImpactOil / ImpactOil ColorÂ@«Â@Natural OilsÂ@«Â@Loba On Top! - der Oberflächenspezialist für Parkett und Holzfußböden

----------


## METRIX

> I'm in a similar position - wanting to do timber benches in bathrooms and kitchens. I don't want the epoxy or plasticised 2-pack look (I have built timber boats so have used and know epoxy). I was going to do 3-5 layers of feast watson water-based satin, but now I'm worried how long it will last in a water-sitting environment and also take the punishment of kitchen life...
> Metrix - what have you decided?
> Anyone offer any thoughts?

  
Not sure yet, I have done some research and the following is something to consider 
Norglass, I have used these products before and found them to work very well 
1:
Norseal Wood Treatment, this is a Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, it soaks into the grain, effectively waterproofing the timber from below, there is a lot of literature available for these types of products. Norglass Paints and Specialty Finishes: Norseal Wood Treatment 
Then use northane gloss 2 pack polyurethane and add flattening agent to this, effectively dropping the gloss level Norglass Paints and Specialty Finishes: Northane Gloss Norglass Paints and Specialty Finishes: Flattening Agent 
2:
West System
Use 105 Resin with 207 Special Clear Hardener, this will give a gloss finish, allow to fully cure for 7 days.
Then use Green ScothBrite pads with soapy water to take the gloss off the surface, this is how a lot of professionals get an even satin finish from glossy epoxy. 
3:
Intergrain floor Pro
Use a waterbased 2 pack product Polyurethane floor finish - commercial strength coating| UltraFloorPro 
4:
Klass Kote
They have a clear epoxy hich can be made to go gloss, Semi gloss, Satin or MATT by adding various catalysts / mixtures, unfortunately cannot find these available in AUS. Industrial Strength Epoxy Clear Coat Paint System. Clear Epoxy Coating. Paint Garage Floor 
5:
Wattyl 7008 - Droog System
Apply appropriate amounts of 7008, sand lightly then use cut and polish  to achieve a matt finish as shown below, this one looks nice and what  I'm after. 
6:
Forget the timber and put a piece of stone in the bathroom  :Smilie:  
I will have to wait until these companies are back in the new year and give them a call, Norglass is Australian Made, hopefully they can give the yes or no.

----------


## Watters

> Not sure yet, I have done some research and the following is something to consider

  Please keep us posted on how this pans out for you.
Norglass stuff looks interesting, think I will find out a bit more about their products myself... 
What on earth is the "Droog system"? 
I restored a Merlin Rocket using the West System with satin varnish coats above cured epoxy resin. Matt coats would knock it down further, no real need for ScotchBrite, but won't hurt, why not try it out on a piece of waste wood? You should test before you commit. A Merlin Rocket, for anyone wondering, is a racing sailing dinghy traditionally clench-built clinker (lapstrake) construction. 
Tip: If you want to create a non slip area, mask off the area, then sprinkle some coarse grain sugar or salt or epsom salts over wet varnish. Use a sifter for even distribution. Just let the grains sit in the varnish. When the varnish has dried rinse away the grains - Voilla, clear non skid surface. Could be a neat effect in a bathroom... :Biggrin:

----------


## METRIX

What Varnish did you put on top of the Epoxy ?

----------


## Watters

I used Bondall Monocel Gold - Marine grade clear timber varnish.
It comes in a "Gold Gloss" version and a "Gold Satin" version. I used the "Gold Satin" version.  http://www.bondall.com/wp-content/up...OCEL-GOLD-.pdf 
You can get it at Bunnies:  https://www.bunnings.com.au/bondall-...rnish_p1521663 
NOTE: Use it "above" the epoxy resin not below it. Things get tricky if you want to do things like using a stain below epoxy resin.... and do tests first on pieces of scrap wood until you get the desired finish you want. 
However, given that you want to get down to a really satin finish, I'd be inclined to go for a matt marine varnish. 
At this point I think it would be a good idea if you give Whitworths Marine and Leisure a call for a chat about this. They stock a lot of this stuff and would provide good suggestions for your situation (by the way they stock Norglass as well):  https://www.whitworths.com.au/

----------


## Watters

Also, you could do worse than use Bondall Monocel Gold - Marine grade clear "Satin" timber varnish on its own i.e. don't bother with the epoxy resin...

----------


## droog

> What on earth is the "Droog system"?

  Its the method i used in post #12 when i found the Wattyl 7008 was way too glossy and fake looking.

----------


## OBBob

Lol... overnight spike in Internet searches for the 'Droog System'.

----------


## droog

:Rofl:  :Rofl:  :Rofl: 
I will have to check with Metrix that i can patent the method with that name.

----------


## r3nov8or

> Wattyl 7008, its a 2 pack finish. 
> It is a high gloss finish but in our last kitchen I used it and then sanded the surface, finally a light polish with an automotive cut and polish and ended up with a matt sheen to the whole bench.  
> Dont expect to find these instructions on the Wattyl site, the manufacturer warrants the product using specific instructions to limit their liability.

  This is a great result, and inventive thinking  :Smilie:  
We've also always specified satin finish poly on our floors. They always do two coats of gloss and finish with the satin.

----------


## Watters

> Lol... overnight spike in Internet searches for the 'Droog System'.

  My bad, for some reason I totally missed that post. Apologies Droog. Still, you are famous now...

----------


## METRIX

> Wattyl 7008, its a 2 pack finish. 
> It is a high gloss finish but in our last kitchen I used it and then sanded the surface, finally a light polish with an automotive cut and polish and ended up with a matt sheen to the whole bench.  
> Dont expect to find these instructions on the Wattyl site, the manufacturer warrants the product using specific instructions to limit their liability.

  How long did you use the benchtops for ? did they show any signs of wear etc
Did you have to be very careful with them ?

----------


## droog

We sold the house last year, the picture above is about 12 months after the bench was installed and the only maintenance was a wipe over with spray and wipe.
We always use chopping boards to protect the bench so no sharp knives, I did drop a screwdriver on it once from about 1.5 metres and it did take a small chip out of the surface.
I figured with the way i finished it I could always break out the ROS and give it a once over. 
Would not hesitate to use the same method again, was very happy with the result and ease of maintenance, the top is T&G blackbutt laminated to YT substrate with one coat of sanding sealer then three coats of Wattyl 7008, with a sand and buff to finish off.

----------


## Watters

> We sold the house last year, the picture above is about 12 months after the bench was installed and the only maintenance was a wipe over with spray and wipe.
> We always use chopping boards to protect the bench so no sharp knives, I did drop a screwdriver on it once from about 1.5 metres and it did take a small chip out of the surface.
> I figured with the way i finished it I could always break out the ROS and give it a once over. 
> Would not hesitate to use the same method again, was very happy with the result and ease of maintenance, the top is T&G blackbutt laminated to YT substrate with one coat of sanding sealer then three coats of Wattyl 7008, with a sand and buff to finish off.

  Looks good, ROS?

----------


## droog

Random Orbit Sander https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...nders-23529-c/

----------


## Watters

> Random Orbit Sander https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...nders-23529-c/

  Oh right, thanks. I did wonder. It could have been a name for some brand of cut and polish or something. 
As today's acronym is ROS I'll use it. Your ROS is a corded one, as is mine. I have been thinking of getting a cordless one as a complement but I have been wondering how long you get before having to change 4Ah batteries...My cordless angle grinder doesn't take long before needing a battery change. Decisions... 
This is the cordless ROS I have been thinking of getting:  https://www.makita.com.au/products/l...orbital-sander

----------


## David.Elliott

If you're considering any sanding of quantity, skip the cordless.  Let's face it you're not really likely to do much finish sanding out of the shed really...

----------


## Watters

> ...skip the cordless.  Let's face it you're not really likely to do much finish sanding out of the shed really...

  What do you mean by that? I have several investment properties so I will be very much out of the shed.

----------


## OBBob

> What do you mean by that? I have several investment properties so I will be very much out of the shed.

  Depends what you want to do. If you're just rounding off a rough edge it'd be fine but for refinishing an entire bench you'd be better with a cord.

----------


## Watters

> Depends what you want to do. If you're just rounding off a rough edge it'd be fine but for refinishing an entire bench you'd be better with a cord.

  Okay, thanks for that, I'll keep with the corded then. Horses for courses...

----------


## CraigandKate

Back on topic, any further news Metrix? Also what sort of sinks are you planning to use in this, surface mount with wall taps perhaps? Would help keep the water away from the timber a bit..

----------


## METRIX

> Back on topic, any further news Metrix? Also what sort of sinks are you planning to use in this, surface mount with wall taps perhaps? Would help keep the water away from the timber a bit..

  No not sure yet, the timber turns up next week, so will hopefully finalise it then, thinking to go either the Droog System, or first seal with the penetrating epoxy, then the Droog system on top. 
Bowls are semi inset, they look like surface mount but half the bowl is under the top and easy to clean around, plus it backs onto the wall. 
Didn't want a counter top mounted tap due to possibilities of water always hanging around the base of the tap, wall mounted tap was first choice, but the supplier was closed over Christmas and the plumber needed to set everything out, so went for bowl mounted type.

----------


## METRIX

WOO HOO timber slab has turned up in Sydney will go pick it up tomorrow or Saturday.

----------


## sol381

Bloody hell.. you going to make us wait until monday for pics

----------


## METRIX

Ha Ha Ha 
Nah hopefully I can pick it up Saturday morning, my Mate said its a nice piece with good grain, 2.9m x 800 x 40mm thick, that's good as I will have off cuts for other projects.

----------


## OBBob

> Ha Ha Ha 
> Nah hopefully I can pick it up Saturday morning, my Mate said its a nice piece with good grain, 2.9m x 800 x 40mm thick, that's good as I will have off cuts for other projects.

  Hopefully it's well seasoned so as not to warp and rip the vanity off the wall! Ha ha...

----------


## METRIX

> Bloody hell.. you going to make us wait until monday for pics

  Ok Ok, just for you, here it is, has a nice grain to it, I will give it a quick cut and sand to see what its like.

----------


## METRIX

Here tis, cut and sanded

----------


## METRIX

> Hopefully it's well seasoned so as not to warp and rip the vanity off the wall! Ha ha...

  I would say so, for a big slab, it's straighter than anything I have seen as Bunnings

----------


## sol381

couldnt ask for much more character in the grain than that. no need to put it through the thicknesser i think

----------


## METRIX

> couldnt ask for much more character in the grain than that. no need to put it through the thicknesser i think

  Nah, it's pretty much dead on.

----------


## phild01

49 minutes and 40 degree heat...not bad :Cool: 
Nice slab, do you think it will crack?

----------


## METRIX

> 49 minutes and 40 degree heat...not bad
> Nice slab, do you think it will crack?

  Don't think so, they are seasoned, I have had many slabs from these guys, none cracked so far.

----------


## sol381

i`m no arborist but in that pic on the sawhorses, the bottom right looks like it had a huge branch coming off it. i gather that was a decent sized tree.

----------


## METRIX

> i`m no arborist but in that pic on the sawhorses, the bottom right looks like it had a huge branch coming off it. i gather that was a decent sized tree.

  Yep, it was a branch, must have been a huge tree.

----------


## jimfish

What type of timber is it?

----------


## METRIX

Camphor Lauryl, classified as a Noxious weed on the east coast

----------


## jimfish

Nice , seen some up at Bundaberg years ago. Great looking timber

----------


## ringtail

Nice figure wood on that crotch section bottom right. Just watch that bit. I've found crotch figure does some weird stuff due to the grain tightness. Sand it smooth and within 2 days it's raised again. Hopefully the slab is nice and dry.

----------


## METRIX

> Nice figure wood on that crotch section bottom right. Just watch that bit. I've found crotch figure does some weird stuff due to the grain tightness. Sand it smooth and within 2 days it's raised again. Hopefully the slab is nice and dry.

  Checked it, it's between 11% -13% which is bang on where AS/NZS 4787, 2001 says it should be, so hopefully its ok, that crotch is around 9%

----------


## ringtail

I cut a really nice ironbark crotch about a year ago. Made a mirror image coffee able out of it. The tree had been dead and dropped on the ground for at least 8 years. To this day the grain in the crotch section moves around.

----------


## METRIX

> The tree had been dead and dropped on the ground for at least 8 years. To this day the grain in the crotch section moves around.

----------


## ringtail

Indeed. I've tried to exorcise the beast but I guess I got me a genuine crotch poltergeist.  :Biggrin:

----------


## Watters

> Camphor Laurel, classified as a Noxious weed on the east coast

  It is! One of my investment units had a crap strata manager who never did a day's work in his life. Camphor Laurels lined the side of the driveway. The roots of the Camphor Laurel grow long and are invasive. The sewerage piping got damaged and the bottom end unit's bath routinely filled up with sewerage. The root system also buckled the driveway in many areas. In the end we all voted to change strata manager which helped. What didn't help was the local council, which had lost so many trees over the years, council didn't want any more trees cut down. As things headed to court the local council saw the error of their ways and the Camphor Laurels were cut down. 
Nice grain though, crotch or no crotch... Maybe just chop the crotch end off if your slab is longer than you need? 
The TV show bhg would paint a lovely piece of wood like that. Scandalous.

----------


## ringtail

There are several very old, very expensive areas of Brisbane where the streets are lined with huge camphors. The roads and footpaths are destroyed but no one cares as the vibe these trees create is too cool. Most if not all are protected. My parents have a monster in their backyard. PITA with the pool and after having the sewer redone 10 years ago they have no drama with it other than berries and leaves in the pool. They also have some anti bacterial properties and a lot of cutting boards are made from it. Clothes storage boxes also as the timber is said to repel moths etc...

----------


## METRIX

NSW tends to form a different opinion about Camphor Laurel, basically get rid of them.  NSW WeedWise

----------


## goldie1

Its a horrible tree. I used to live on a bush block between Coffs and Bellingen and its taken over most of 
 that area 
All the creeks and river banks ( smothering all the native trees ) and all along the fence lines where the birds 
sit on the fence and crap out the seeds. It was a never ending job removing the seedlings. 
I would be happy to see more people using it.

----------


## ringtail

Oh totally agree. Certainly a weed tree. Councils are great at making crap street tree decisions. After the CL's were phased out council planted frikken leopard trees, which are now a weed tree. Their current fave is tulipwoods.

----------


## goldie1

Coffee trees now that would be clever  :Tongue:

----------


## OBBob

> Coffee trees now that would be clever

  Ha... I'd prefer coffee falling everywhere compared to some of the stuff in it street!

----------


## goldie1

> Ha... I'd prefer coffee falling everywhere compared to some of the stuff in it street!

    I see everyone getting upset in Lygon street about all the pollen falling from the plane trees in to their coffee

----------


## ringtail

Yeah, nah  :Biggrin:

----------


## METRIX

OK, so I spoke to the technical guys at Norglass, and have decided on using their Northane 2 pack product in Satin finish. 
I asked them about using the penetrating epoxy first, they said yes that is fine, but it needs a pigment poly coating on top as it has no UV resistance, and in a bathroom it may yellow over a few years due to reflected light from windows etc.
They said the Northane is a premium 2 Pack Polyurethane product and does not require anything under it for my intended use. 
Comments were do three coats, with a light sand in between and that's it, allow 48 hours between coats for the hardening to achieve desired level.
This is a totally waterproof coating, and designed for complete immersion once hardened, I mentioned the Wattyl 7008 product, the response was yes it's a good product, but Northane will outperform it by a mile as it's been designed to withstand total immersion. 
Note the Satin is a new product only release a few months ago, and is specifically for interior use, see below timber raw and with one coat, it brings out the grain amazingly, I think this piece of timber will look very nice when finished.  Norglass Paints and Specialty Finishes: Northane Clear Gloss

----------


## OBBob

Poppidydoodaa!

----------


## Optimus

That looks grouse!

----------


## METRIX

I can highly recommend the guys at Norglass, they were really helpful, when I called they were in a meeting, I was called me back within an hour, they knew their product and were only to please to answer any questions I had, other benefits of this product is it's food grade compatible, and doesn't really have a strong odor once mixed. 
Below is some literature of their products.  https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...44224172,d.dGo

----------


## sol381

certainly looks like it brings the grain out. i take it its very protective and water resistant... looks very good.. never heard of them before.

----------


## METRIX

> certainly looks like it brings the grain out. i take it its very protective and water resistant... looks very good.. never heard of them before.

  They have been around forever, Sydney based company, the products are all based around Marine grade stuff.
No this product is not Water Resistant, but it's Waterproof, even better.

----------


## OBBob

I remember these guys now. I used Norseal to fix rot... it's like a thin two part epoxy that soaks into timber and then cures hard.

----------


## ringtail

You need to get a boat Sol. I've seen their products in boat shops for ever. That's an awesome blaze look on that timber Metrix. Bloody weeds  :Tongue:

----------


## sol381

what are you doing in boat shops.. tractor shops i`d understand.  have never really done much staining or finishing of fine timbers so wouldn't have a clue whats out there. i think i lack the patience with all the work involved.

----------


## ringtail

Always had boats since I was 14. Just need the time to use them. I think the boat trailer tyres are probably vulcanised to the ground. Been at least 3 years since I used it

----------


## METRIX

Ok, so now the next issue is the doors, I really want the timber to be the hero of the vanity so was thinking of going for satin Black poly doors to sort of make the vanity dissapear, that was until I got the price for the 5 doors and 2 side panels, so looking for alternatives. 
My thoughts are Marine ply with a nice grain, I will veneer the edges with HW to hide the layers , stain it either Black Japan, or solid black, do the 2-pak poly, knock the gloss completely off it, then wax it to a patina finish, thoughts ?
I don't really want white doors as I think it will be a bit much, but might price it up anyway.

----------


## phild01

I thought off-white, but if you go the ply, I would go for a light pale variety to keep focus on the slab. 
Then again,maybe a deep rich coloured grain. 
Don't know, need to try a few things out :Confused:

----------


## METRIX

I picked up some Marine ply with nice grain on the face veneer today, I will be ready to put the carcass on soon, will have to try a few combinations and see what works. 
See below white with wood mmm, I think black makes the timber pop, options are to make doors from same timber, or do a light Shou Sugi San on the timber to lightly blacken it, then wax it ?

----------


## ringtail

What about more weed tree for the doors

----------


## METRIX

That's what I thought, like the one below, it looks good.

----------


## OBBob

There are lots of surface coverings out there that you can laminate on if you have a way to finish the edges.   http://www.sassignage.com.au/high-gl...ck-matte-black

----------


## ringtail

> That's what I thought, like the one below, it looks good.

  Yep. That's what I'd be doing. Hopefully you don't have a POS view like that dunny  :Biggrin:

----------


## sol381

i like that too. sometimes you can add too much colour and different grain and looks rubbish.

----------


## METRIX

> i like that too. sometimes you can add too much colour and different grain and looks rubbish.

  Agree, I have another slab coming down next week, I will do something similar to the one in the pic, I like this design, I would like to miter the front, but not sure if the track saw is that accurate over 2.6m !!
I don't have any other way to do a miter that long accurately, the top slab is 40mm thick.

----------


## phild01

> I don't have any other way to do a miter that long accurately, the top slab is 40mm thick.

  I had problems mitre-ing 32mm over 300mm for my suspended cabinet.  My issue was the boards weren't consistent, just a slight warp or uneven thickness throws things off.

----------


## METRIX

> I had problems mitre-ing 32mm over 300mm for my suspended cabinet.  My issue was the boards weren't consistent, just a slight warp or uneven thickness throws things off.

  I have done 1200mm with the tracksaw without any issues on 30mm board and 2400 on 18mm board but 2600 on 40mm board is a bit different.

----------


## phild01

> I have done 1200mm with the tracksaw without any issues on 30mm board and 2400 on 18mm board but 2600 on 40mm board is a bit different.

  My problem was that I had to laminate a 30mm board with a 32mm plank to get the width of board I needed, and then have four mitres line up to form the box unit.

----------


## METRIX

Ok, so I have progressed the ensuite, still a few finishing touches to do, below is the slab in temporary to gauge what it will look like, I think it looks ok.
Slab for the front will be here on Monday.

----------


## SlowMick

wow.

----------


## sol381

indeed it does look ok. Nice lighting too.

----------


## Sir Stinkalot

Looking good Metrix. What sort of cost is the Norglass? 
I have been working on my spotted gum vanity units for a while now. I ended up using Livos benchtop oil but have yet to get to a point where I am happy with the finish. Unfortunately a visitor knocked over and broke the bottle of Livos so I have a choice of getting another bottle and persevering or jumping ship.

----------


## METRIX

> Looking good Metrix. What sort of cost is the Norglass?

  It worked out about $89 for a 1L which should be plenty to give it three coats, they have a Satin version now which looks good, will see if it's still too shiny when I coat the timber, I did  test piece and it looked ok. 
I then hit it with 800# to see how it finished up and it knocked any shine off it, I won't coat it until I get the other piece of timber for the front, as the top needs trimming to final size. 
I picked up some big syringes from the chemist so I can mix up as much as i need for each coat.

----------


## sol381

Have you got the basins yet. you going round or rectangular like the pics above. I gather there will be 2.

----------


## phild01

I reckon they will be square :Biggrin:

----------


## sol381

Had to be different.. i think octagonal now.

----------


## phild01

No, Metrix likes squares :Wink 1:

----------


## METRIX

> No, Metrix likes squares

  For sure,

----------


## Sir Stinkalot

> It worked out about $89 for a 1L which should be plenty to give it three coats

  Thanks Metrix .... I'm following this with interest. I am in no hurry (too many other projects) so I will see how you get on.
Is that an original Tom Dixon Beat?

----------


## METRIX

> Is that an original Tom Dixon Beat?

  It's a knock off copy $80 Vs over $500 for original  :Smilie:

----------


## ringtail

Coming along nicely Metrix

----------


## METRIX

Slab No2 has turned up, from the same tree, so the pattern is very similar

----------


## ringtail

Go the weed !

----------


## METRIX

Doors are made, went for a different style, going to put same handles as the other cabinetry here, long flat aluminium ones that sit on the top of the door, mostly idden by the benchtop.

----------


## r3nov8or

Very nice indeed

----------


## Optimus

Looks good.... 
Cant help but feel a nice rounded bowl would of looked better though

----------


## phild01

> Looks good.... 
> Cant help but feel a nice rounded bowl would of looked better though

  yes  :Biggrin:   :Biggrin:

----------


## METRIX

> Looks good.... 
> Cant help but feel a nice rounded bowl would of looked better though

  Round and nice are not two words in my vocabulary  :Biggrin:  
Besides then you are constantly cleaning behind them, had them before not interested, prefer the ones that back onto the wall

----------


## rebuildr86

if you havent already  finished.
For the most perfect finsih according to your request , you want this. http://www.duluxprotectivecoatings.c...hane_pc410.pdf
and a specification for this coating is here. http://www.duspec.com.au/duspec/file/AUSI3425.pdf
Its a true polyurethane, and for that reason, is dangerous to your health. One of the last still left on the market.
Being true polyurethane, it wont yellow.

----------


## r3nov8or

Gotta a little bit of a feeling rebuildr86 is a Dulux rep, given a couple of (or many) recent posts

----------


## rebuildr86

Haha, why thanku, could hav used your refference when i used to work for them and was treated like a dumb robot. Never a rep, just a staff member who paid attrntion and spent rvery minute if his home life studying technical data and specifications, plus 15 years of experience using solely their paint.

----------


## rebuildr86

Reps can hide in their cars at maccas and ignore ur calls. I was at the front of the store where u must know everything in order to save face.

----------


## r3nov8or

> Haha, why thanku, could hav used your refference when i used to work for them and was treated like a dumb robot. Never a rep, just a staff member who paid attrntion and spent rvery minute if his home life studying technical data and specifications, plus 15 years of experience using solely their paint.

   

> Reps can hide in their cars at maccas and ignore ur calls. I was at the front of the store where u must know everything in order to save face.

  Good to know. Also good you remain an advocate of their products

----------


## ChocDog

Looks great Metrix. We're looking to do something similar with our new bathroom. Shame you're not in Melbourne to do it for us!

----------


## rebuildr86

yeh you really have done a terrific job here..
I now do bathroom and kitchen renovations as a career, and seeing this i feel i ought to lift my game.

----------


## METRIX

Put the 2nd coat on today, below are some photos of the grains, amazing what pops out with a clear coat, almost 3D. 
The Norglass coating is very strong after 48 hours.

----------


## ringtail

:2thumbsup:   :2thumbsup:

----------


## SlowMick

that is some very pretty timber.  had a lot of trouble at the Salamanca Markets looking at bowls, platters and boxes with similar grains and colours. struggled not to buy everything.

----------


## METRIX

I'm after a timber bowl, but havent been able to find a nice one, once there was one on ebay, very natural shape and low profile, missed out on it never seen one like it again.

----------


## ringtail

I might be able  to help you out there Metrix.  Natural shaped low profile bowl you say. Hmmmm. What sort of dimensions ?

----------


## METRIX

Something like these

----------


## ringtail

Hmmmm. Approx length, width, height ?

----------


## METRIX

Maybe 40-50 cm long, 15-20 wide,15 high

----------


## ringtail

Cool. I will have a crack using a nice piece of ironbark log I have downstairs. Chainsaws ahoy !

----------


## METRIX

> Cool. I will have a crack using a nice piece of ironbark log I have downstairs. Chainsaws ahoy !

  Don't go to any trouble, or cut your hands off trying I know your very busy. 
It's just to put a few fruit in on display in the kitchen, the kitchen  is very modern and sterile need to add some organic things to it. 
I would like it to look hand made like the ones shown above, not interested in a perfect machine made thing, an ironbark one would be nice but if it turns out like the one below that's ok.

----------


## ringtail

No trouble. I've been wanting to try bowl making without using the lathe. Time is the enemy  :Biggrin:

----------


## METRIX

Here are some pics of the vanity now coated and polished, I got the look I was after, the Norglass was still too glossy, so I hit it with 600 Wet and Dry then polished it, the finish is so smooth and has a nice patina.
Don't worry about the gap between the two right doors, one set of runners is faulty, waiting on another set to arrive, the draw won't sit all the way in.

----------


## ringtail

Very nice result.

----------


## droog

Looks like i will need to use the Metrix Norglass system on my next project

----------


## goldie1

Wow thats nice  :2thumbsup:  :2thumbsup:  
This mob in Bellingen do some nice bowls Buy Wooden Bowls | Native Timber | Handmade Australia

----------


## SlowMick

Looks awesome Metrix. quick question - are you going to seal the sink to the bench top and to the tiles?   if so what are you going to use?  My wife has design on timber benchtops in the kitchen with a ceramic sink.   i figure it needs to be sealed but i want it to look nice.

----------


## David.Elliott

SlowMick...like this one I did?

----------


## METRIX

I have siliconed the benchtop to wall gaps and will silicon the top edge to wall with the same charcoal silicon as the rest of the bathroom. 
I will silicon the basins to benchtop with white but keep it just under the edge to keep it from looking ugly,  nothing worse than silicon on display, most plumbers (not all)  I see couldn't silicon neatly to save themselves, thick smear of it all over the place. 
The nor glass has a waterproof rating not water resistant it's designed for outsides of boat in salt water, so the timber will be well protected, still I will be silicone all the usual critical places

----------


## SlowMick

Cheers Metrix. 
Yes David, very similar look to yours.  i wasn't sure if i should use white or clear at the junction between the tiles and the bench and then white or clear at the sink (the sink has a lip that sits above the benchtop).  sorry for the derail- Metrix's work just looked so neat i though it wasn't sealed. i went to his plumbers school of caulking.

----------


## ringtail

> I'm after a timber bowl, but havent been able to find a nice one, once there was one on ebay, very natural shape and low profile, missed out on it never seen one like it again.

  Bowl carving has commenced  :Wink:

----------


## METRIX

> Bowl carving has commenced

  Pictures?

----------


## ringtail

So far

----------


## METRIX

Looking good  :2thumbsup:

----------


## ringtail

Looks frikken awesome now.

----------


## METRIX

I didn't think, it must weigh a ton !

----------


## ringtail

Not too bad. I guesstimate about 2 kg

----------


## OBBob

> So far

  Can you just send me a lump of wood so I can have a try!   :Biggrin:   
Looking good. Also in need of a wooden bowl.

----------


## ringtail

Cut another blank at the farm today. I reckon it weighs 10kg.

----------


## METRIX

Here is some pics of it finally finished, along with the entire ensuite, water running bowls / benchtop siliconed, havent run a line of silicon around bowl sides, underneath all siliconed. 
These were taken with a bit better camera than an iPhone, although the iPhone does quite a good job, looking at the above ones.

----------


## Optimus

Stunning.

----------


## phild01

Not a fan of timber benches, but that beautiful looking timber weed, should win me over.
  If I knew it would still look exactly the same after 5 years than I am won over. 
Great job Metrix.  What are the drawer insides like?

----------


## METRIX

> Not a fan of timber benches, but that beautiful looking timber weed, should win me over.
> If I knew it would still look exactly the same after 5 years than I am won over. 
> Great job Metrix. What are the drawer insides like?

  The draw inside look like the inside of a draw  :Smilie:  HA HA HA, Actually I put a ply bottom in them and stained it Black Japan, to add some interest to an otherwise boring component.

----------


## ringtail

Top work mate.  :2thumbsup:

----------


## OBBob

What's the corner of the shower niche done with? It doesn't look like tile but it also doesn't look like a normal bead... might just be that I can't zoom in enough.

----------


## pharmaboy2

Vanity does look nice metrix.  It's all on trend you hipster

----------


## METRIX

> Not a fan of timber benches, but that beautiful looking timber weed, should win me over.
> If I knew it would still look exactly the same after 5 years than I am won over. 
> Great job Metrix. What are the drawer insides like?

  Should be ok, timber is a higher maintenance product than stone, but with a little maintenance of cleaning and waxing every now and then it should be ok.
The Norglass is fairly bulletproof, I was using small roller to apply it, and left it on the floor, with a chux, it stuck to the floor like glue, and was so hard on the roller and chux it was like steel. 
I don't think you could enter this room Phil, too many squares everywhere  :Smilie:   :Smilie:

----------


## METRIX

> What's the corner of the shower niche done with? It doesn't look like tile but it also doesn't look like a normal bead... might just be that I can't zoom in enough.

  The Niece  :Smilie:  is all tile, do you mean the outer edge ?. 
The inner joins are all siliconed, the out edge is a flat tile edge, about 2mm thick, gives a nice soft edge rather than mitering the tiles, which can leave a sharp edge, and I hate those curved tile edges, especially the ones made from plastic, YUK. 
Also no glass shower scren to keep clean in this one

----------


## OBBob

Did I spell it wrong?  
Anyway, yep the edge. Looks good.  
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

----------


## jimfish

> Should be ok, timber is a higher maintenance product than stone, but with a little maintenance of cleaning and waxing every now and then it should be ok.
> The Norglass is fairly bulletproof, I was using small roller to apply it, and left it on the floor, with a chux, it stuck to the floor like glue, and was so hard on the roller and chux it was like steel. 
> I don't think you could enter this room Phil, too many squares everywhere

  Metrix how was the norglass to apply, did you have any issues with air bubbles ?

----------


## METRIX

> Metrix how was the norglass to apply, did you have any issues with air bubbles ?

  I applied it with Microfibre roller, but it did leave a slight orange peel affect, tried mohair and it was the same, this is a trait of using roller.
I would try next time to use a brush or foam brush, as you sand it when finished anyway, but it was harder to get rid of the orange peel. 
No air bubbles at all, it went on so easily, I still have a bit left so I will try it with a brush, or possibly a sponge roller might be the go, I will let you know.

----------


## David.Elliott

> I applied it with Microfibre roller, but it did leave a slight orange peel affect, tried mohair and it was the same, this is a trait of using roller.
> I would try next time to use a brush or foam brush, as you sand it when finished anyway, but it was harder to get rid of the orange peel. 
> No air bubbles at all, it went on so easily, I still have a bit left so I will try it with a brush, or possibly a sponge roller might be the go, I will let you know.

  With the floor poly I use on my benchtops I found getting it on quickly with a foam roller and then long strokes, ie: from one end to the other with a foam brush is the go...just ever so lightly... 
Lining the small roller tray with aluminium foil saves a heap of time and money on clean up, however I have not been able to reuse the foam rollers or brushes...

----------


## SlowMick

Impressive attention to detail.  I hope the people who eventually buy the house appreciate all your hard work.

----------


## METRIX

> With the floor poly I use on my benchtops I found getting it on quickly with a foam roller and then long strokes, ie: from one end to the other with a foam brush is the go...just ever so lightly... 
> Lining the small roller tray with aluminium foil saves a heap of time and money on clean up, however I have not been able to reuse the foam rollers or brushes...

  
Will give it a try, agree I think once this stuff is mixed up say goodbye to the application tool.

----------


## METRIX

> Impressive attention to detail. I hope the people who eventually buy the house appreciate all your hard work.

  They do, that's why my places sell so quick and at good prices, last place went so far over reserve it was silly, attention to detail is the key, but you need to ensure the agent is aware of all that detail as they can glaze over stuff. 
One place I sold, they rented it out, the agent (who is a mate of mine) told me the renters were fighting over getting the place, that was 4 years ago and the same renters are still in there happy as.

----------


## phild01

Might have to invest in a spray booth as well as the other stuff you are thinking of getting.

----------


## ChocDog

Metrix, 
An example of what other custom hardwood timber vanity guys are producing (with prices): https://www.bomboracustomfurniture.c...ydney-brisbane 
Plus they use Osmo Polyx natural oil and wax as a finish (not a 2 pak style). I know you've coated yours with Norglass but did you consider the Osmo product or similar?

----------


## METRIX

> Metrix, 
> An example of what other custom hardwood timber vanity guys are producing (with prices): https://www.bomboracustomfurniture.c...ydney-brisbane 
> Plus they use Osmo Polyx natural oil and wax as a finish (not a 2 pak style). I know you've coated yours with Norglass but did you consider the Osmo product or similar?

  Yeah I have seen another company that uses the Osmo product, I was after a super hard durable product which the Osmo cannot compete with in terms of durability..
Osmo does scratch and wear and yellow over time, the other vanity company gives a maintenance kit with each vanity. 
OsmoX is a nice product, but only offers water repellant, Norglass offers Waterproof, there is a big difference, Norglass is designed for outsides of boats exposed to UV and under salt water, so it has to be tough to endure that. 
I would happily use OsmoX product on entertainment units, dinig tables etc, but would prefer a tougher coating in a bathroom. 
Actually I just made a small open vanity for someone today from Vic Ash and used the Cabotts CFP poly, this is a single pack hard wearing floor finish, but you can add an accelerate / hardener to it to give it extra durability and accelerated drying. I used this additive, it went on real nice, will have to wait and see the finished product after a few coats, it looks good with only one coat.

----------

