# Forum Home Renovation Paving  Basic paving

## johnp

I am about to embark on my first attempt at paving and would like some very basic advice.  I am paving about 50sq m using 400x400x50 pavers.  The ground I am paving on is nowhere near level.  At one end the pavers will finish approx 100mm above ground level and at the other they will be approx 250mm above ground level.  I was planning to use 290x45 treated pine as the edging.  My questions are: 
1.  Do I use the roadbase to bring the level up to where it needs to be. approx 100mm? below top of edging. 
2.  Once I get the road base in place and compacted do I then need to compact the bedding sand before I put the pavers down or do I do this after the pavers are laid? 
3.  I would like the top of the pavers to finish as close as level t the top of the edging as possible.  How much compaction do I allow for in the bedding sand? 
4.  Because this is sitting above ground level I will need to put my edging in first.  What is easier, attempt to get the spacings right so whole pavers fit exactly within the edging or allow for one row of pavers (against existing wall) to be cut?

----------


## boo

Hi John,  
Fortunately I have done _exactly_ this, so am compelled to reply  :Wink 1:    

> 1.  Do I use the roadbase to bring the level up to where it needs to be. approx 100mm? below top of edging.

  Yes.   

> 2.  Once I get the road base in place and compacted do I then need to compact the bedding sand before I put the pavers down or do I do this after the pavers are laid?

  No harm in compacting the sand before screeding. Also no harm in compacting the subsurface before filling with roadbase.   

> 3.  I would like the top of the pavers to finish as close as level to the top of the edging as possible.  How much compaction do I allow for in the bedding sand?

  If you have compacted the sand before screeding, 1-2mm only. Use the treated pine edging to run your screed over - this will make the edge (at least) a very consistent result. If the pavers do drop a little for whatever reason, you can always plane the edge down a touch (use a dust mask!) 
Use temporary timber strips edge up in the sand spaced 1.5 to 2m apart for the other screed edge, using a string line to get them the right depth. Make sure they are firmly supported by the roadbase, and if you need to use temporary pegs.   

> 4.  Because this is sitting above ground level I will need to put my edging in first.  What is easier, attempt to get the spacings right so whole pavers fit exactly within the edging or allow for one row of pavers (against existing wall) to be cut?

  Hmmm ...I used cuts, because the pattern in between was 22.5 degree herringbone, so I had the liberty of needing to make cuts. If you are laying it _perfectly_ square you can measure that out, allowing for 2-3 mm between each paver. You may as well attempt it - if you come up just short you can spread out the pavers a bit, but you can always cut if you overshoot  :Smilie:  
Another important consideration - drainage:
A) Make sure you slope the whole thing away from the house (don't recall how much, but I think I did 75mm across 5m, which is probably the absolute minimum)
B) If you don't mix a little cement into the sand, expect water to seep through it and the roadbase and run out the low end for a few days after rain. I cut notches in the treated pine to help it disperse quickly, but I've also included ag-pipe around the perimeter... 
Clear as mud? Any questions, just ask. 
I'll find (or take) a picture of my job and post it soon... 
Hope that helps - good luck!

----------


## johnp

Thanks Boo.  That was exactly what I was after.  Now all I have to do is get the Minister of Finance to make a final decision on the actual pavers she wants. :2thumbsup:

----------


## boo

Oh s**t, then getting the pavers level is the least of your worries... :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):

----------


## boo

Oh!! One other important thing (other than your ongoing negotiations...) 
Make sure you "set" the edging in properly. I cored drilled rock and set 90x90 posts into it, then coach-screwed the edging to them. 
Whatever you do don't just leave the edge to rest, because it will likely lift over time. If you plant things around the paving, the roots will definitely try to grow under the edging (towards a nice seeping water supply) and lift the sleepers. 
I know this because one of my sleepers (near the house) was not bolted down...

----------


## jonesyGT

Also if you do a search on youtube there are a few good videos of how to lay pavers & some also show you how to finish the edging off

----------


## johnp

Thanks Boo.  I was planning to use 90x90 posts cemented into the ground at 1200 spacing, so hopefully shouldn't get any movement or lifting.

----------


## DNL

hey Johnp - how did it go? Any pics? 
I have started by paving job today. I've got about 70sqm to lay. I've used a 10mm per 1m fall so 50mm across 5m. I've shot levels with a dumpy and this is just the best thing to take all the guess work out of the job. 
cheers and and I would be interested seeing the finished job. 
Regards
Dave

----------


## jamc0984

FYI - there are some good diy paving vids @  Centenary Landscaping Supplies | Pavers - DIY Paving Videos 
Cheers

----------


## johnp

Almost finished.   Will finish this week.  Its been raining since I finshed laying the pavers and obviously I got something right as I do not have any water issues at all.  Everyone told me I couldn't lay 8 tonne of pavers in 4 days by myself but I did it with time to spare.  I guess if you get the preparation right it makes everything a lot easier.  I have attached 2 photo's of the almost finished job.

----------


## DNL

Mate that is a job well done. I think your outdoor area is great.  
I finished laying and compacting the road base today - it was a finicky job, but we spent the time getting the falls as best as possible. It may not be perfect, but it looks pretty good and tomorrow the sand comes in. 
My only issue is moving the 70sqm or 4 pallets - by hand to the site from around under the carport. I need to do it by hand as the wheel barrow wont negotiate the track because of all the concrete path I lifted. No need for a gym membership at the moment. 
jamc0984 - thtanks - I've watch the vids and trawled youtube and watch a lot of different vids for the tips.  
cheers

----------

