# Forum Home Renovation Roofing  Extenda brackets

## phild01

This image shows the topplate connection to the top face.  I am dealing with an lvl beam with no topplate.  Can these extenda brackets be got with connection through the face of the lvl as fixing screws through the edge laminations would, I feel unacceptable.

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## Gaza

Mmm potential could you bolt a top plate to top of beam fixed with cyclone straps or bolted through beam   
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## phild01

> Mmm potential could you bolt a top plate to top of beam fixed with cyclone straps or bolted through beam   
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  I thought about bolts but reluctant as the beam is designed near full strength.  The rafters are only 90mm and any additional plating will reduce this to what might be unacceptable.

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## r3nov8or

I believe the rafter connection is more effective than the top plate connection, especially when any nearby tie down of said top plate is unknown. But if only rafter connection is available, I would choose to double the amount of extendas installed.

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## phild01

> I believe the rafter connection is more effective than the top plate connection, especially when any nearby tie down of said top plate is unknown. But if only rafter connection is available, I would choose to double the amount of extendas installed.

  Not sure doubling will be doable.  The lvl is a lintel as well and the proposed roof extends just past the opening.  Can't put the extendas in the spanned area.

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## phild01

I have thought of one solution and that is to use a duragal angle to supplement the existing bracket by cutting part of the new angle to form a flat face against the face of the lvl.  The  bolt through the rafter can pick up the new angle.  The intrusion to the inside walls surface will be incidental and concealed by what I am doing.  Is all I can think of for the moment.

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## METRIX

> I thought about bolts but reluctant as the beam is designed near full strength.  The rafters are only 90mm and any additional plating will reduce this to what might be unacceptable.

  By full strength, do you mean the LVL is already close to max load capacity, if so I would find another connection point for your extender's and not impose any more load onto the LVL. 
Can you run a larger beam between the extendas either side ?. 
Do you have a photo of your situation where your trying to connect, and what is it your wanting to connect ?

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## METRIX

> I have thought of one solution and that is to use a duragal angle to supplement the existing bracket by cutting part of the new angle to form a flat face against the face of the lvl.  The  bolt through the rafter can pick up the new angle.  The intrusion to the inside walls surface will be incidental and concealed by what I am doing.  Is all I can think of for the moment.

  What is the main concern for you, the loading on the LVL, or the uplift of the structure. 
Remember if your building something there is two forces to consider, the load imposed on the existing structure by the new structure, and the uplift the new structure is going to impose on the existing one. 
The job of an extenda is simply to transfer the new loads structure to the ground, if your transferring a new structure to a fully loaded LVL that is the main problem, not so much how your going to connect the hardware to it.

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## Cecile

Would changing the fixing of the bracket alter the engineering specs? 
Just a thought.

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## phild01

Pic would help - Metrix, not going over opening but lvl has been rated continuous keep in mind that it extends fully outside the picture field.  
Tie down has been done, strapped either end and it is uplift that is the concern and why I don't want to screw down into the lvl.  Either I weld the bracket with a drop or preferably use the the angle as I described, or some other idea.

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## Moondog55

Is it the LVL splitting you are worried about?
Pre-drilling and a drop of glue?
We used bugles and a thick washer rather than 10mm coach screws Stronger grip
Uplift forces seem to be adequate already taken into account

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## phild01

> Is it the LVL splitting you are worried about?
> Pre-drilling and a drop of glue?
> We used bugles and a thick washer rather than 10mm coach screws Stronger grip
> Uplift forces seem to be adequate already taken into account

  Splitting is not the concern but holding power is.  It is not recommended to fix into the laminated edge of an lvl and I'd rather stay within guidelines.
Batten screws may not be as good as heavier gauge coach screws
(bugle terminology could also mean plaster screws, but know what you mean).

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## Moondog55

Holding power is why I suggested the possibility of glue Looking at the very poor quality of coach screws lately and looking at the strength tables for 6mm batten screws is why I used batten screws
Why not just loop a short length of hoop iron over that base plate and screw through that into the lintel or use something like the brackets you used to hold the rafter to the lintel but in reverse to do the same job?
A batten strap I think it's called
Alternatively why not drill all the way through and use bolts?

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## phild01

> Why not just loop a short length of hoop iron over that base plate and screw through that into the lintel or use something like the brackets you used to hold the rafter to the lintel but in reverse to do the same job?
> A batten strap I think it's called
> Alternatively why not drill all the way through and use bolts?

  The front of this beam is inaccessible so strapping would be flimsy done one side only. I think a heavy gauge angle would be best.  The reason I don't want to drill through is because that beam is two lvl's nailed laminated and drilling through will reduce the strength of the combination, I won't do that  as it is a continuous span spec.  It's a bit of a dilemma but what I have suggested may be my only option.  Trouble is I did not foresee my desire for a flyover before I had the exterior rendered :Doh: .

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## METRIX

Did you say you cannot get access to the other side of the LVL's ? 
Whats the go with the dual LVL on top of the Top Plate anyway ?

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## phild01

> Did you say you cannot get access to the other side of the LVL's ? 
> Whats the go with the dual LVL on top of the Top Plate anyway ?

  Yes, already styro rendered.
Headroom.... for the sliding door that is already a bit lower than standard height.  Absolutely no space for a top-plate.

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## METRIX

How far do these LVL's continue past the opening ?

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## phild01

Just to put you in the picture a bit more, this roofline is low due to extending the existing roofline out 1.2m.  The old wall has been replaced with a much larger laminated beam.

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## phild01

> How far do these LVL's continue past the opening ?

  1500 one side, 600 the other.  The software accounts for the 1500mm distance.  The beam is loaded and no deflection.

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## METRIX

MMM can't say I've see construction quite like that before. 
Anyway I think you have a slight problem with attaching the extender's, if you cannot gain access to the other side this is a problem, as I would have suggested an upside down U that wrapped over the extenda's base and was fixed through the face of the LVL. 
Out of curiosity, do those LVL's run the entire length of the wall, if so how did you attach them to what looks like a top plate underneath them, and what's that piece of metal bar next to the door doing ?
Was this wall cut too short, and the LVL are there to raise it up ?

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## phild01

> MMM can't say I've see construction quite like that before. 
> Anyway I think you have a slight problem with attaching the extender's, if you cannot gain access to the other side this is a problem, as I would have suggested an upside down U that wrapped over the extenda's base and was fixed through the face of the LVL. 
> Out of curiosity, do those LVL's run the entire length of the wall, if so how did you attach them to what looks like a top plate underneath them, and what's that piece of metal bar next to the door doing ?
> Was this wall cut too short, and the LVL are there to raise it up ?

  Yes a U support would be my preference, just can't do it.
The construction method was intentional as the overall solution.  The lvl runs the full length of the wall, fully strapped and tied into end walls.  The metal bar is a modified gal angle that has an identical on the other side, they do not cut into the lvl's but keep the lvl rigid at that intermediate point.  Believe me, while not what you would normally expect to see, it is structurally effective.

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## phild01

What I may do is remove the two triple grips and apply the modified gal angle both sides so the extenda bracket fixing bolts, through the rafter, picks these up both sides.

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## Marc

That should work.
You could also make a large plate with the top bended at 90, to take the vertical bolts from the extenda and on the face have a series of holes for timber screws say 12g, the strength would be in the number of screws without the need for drilling out any timber. Anyone with a bending machine can do that in a flash. A bit of drilling and you are done.

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## phild01

> That should work.
> You could also make a large plate with the top bended at 90, to take the vertical bolts from the extenda and on the face have a series of holes for timber screws say 12g, the strength would be in the number of screws without the need for drilling out any timber. Anyone with a bending machine can do that in a flash. A bit of drilling and you are done.

  Yep, lots of screws but I am not going to have vertical bolts going through the lamination edge.

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## Marc

No of course not, the extenda bracket will need to be a touch sideways so that the bolts go in the L shaped plate and not in the edge of the laminated thingy. I think you could even have just one bolt and not necessarily both.
The plate will make a horizontal surface at the level of the top edge of the LVL but away from it not over it.

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## phild01

> ...touch sideways so that the bolts go in the L shaped plate and not in the edge of the laminated thingy. I think you could even have just one bolt and not necessarily both.
> The plate will make a horizontal surface at the level of the top edge of the LVL but away from it not over it.

  I think I follow but why a touch sideways!?
Is this a variation of the U bracket missing one side and thus an L bracket (a drawing maybe).  Keep in mind I have no access to the other face of the lvl.

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## Moondog55

Have you contacted the maker yet and asked for advice?
When I did last year for a slightly different application [ sail anchors ] the boss there told me to just bolt them through the rafter
What's the reason for not wanting to through bolt tho as that seems to be standard practice when using concrete stumps and LVL as bearers?
A bolt being so much stronger than a coach screw you probably only need one bolt

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## phild01

> Have you contacted the maker yet and asked for advice?
> When I did last year for a slightly different application [ sail anchors ] the boss there told me to just bolt them through the rafter
> What's the reason for not wanting to through bolt tho as that seems to be standard practice when using concrete stumps and LVL as bearers?
> A bolt being so much stronger than a coach screw you probably only need one bolt

  Sometimes things like this the manufacturers don't want to sway from script and be liable.  The only bolts I will be using are through the rafters and I want more than this to resist uplift.  As I see it, plating to the face of the lvl with several 10g screws is my best approach.  Cannot bolt through the face with no access to other side, will not bolt down through the lvls and derate their spec.

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## Moondog55

Then taking the brackets to a good welder and having a plate added at right angle seems to be the better solution.
Could you explain to me the derating by bolting through tho so I don't make a mistake myself

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## phild01

I'd rather bolt a heavy angle rather than weld as it would be stronger if anything and no need to worry about cold gal.
If I bolt down through the lvls then I might risk the bolts being too close to the face of the lvl and weakening it.  The beam is actually working for it's entire length even where it is supported by the frame.  
I am now checking the tillings recommendation and they allow a centre hole one quarter of the lvl dimension.  I just ran the software again and found I am at 53% with this beam.  I thought it was much tighter than that though 5mm deflection, which I need to minimise.  I have two 42mm x 130mm lvl's nail laminated and it seems a 10mm centre hole is permissible.  You might be right Moondog, hopefully the bracket holes work in my favour.
I might reconsider this when I get my hands on the actual brackets and see how the mounting holes work out.
Thanks for nudging a re-think on this. 
edit _Damn, will mean ripping away the sarking to drill the holes.  Never done extenda brackets before, anyone know how best to deal with the sarking destruction?_

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## phild01

One interesting thing I noticed running the software is that the lintel strength is maximised in the manner I have done this construction, rather than having it lower.

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## Moondog55

Found this which is the simplest explanation I could understand  https://law.resource.org/pub/us/code...awood.S560.pdf

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## phild01

> Found this which is the simplest explanation I could understand  https://law.resource.org/pub/us/code...awood.S560.pdf

  Think from that you can see my reluctance to drill these holes.

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## Moondog55

I do; but it does appear that a 10mm bolt is well with-in the allowances
This is something I really wasn't aware of not having used them before

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## phild01

> I do; but it does appear that a 10mm bolt is well with-in the allowances
> This is something I really wasn't aware of not having used them before

  Not really, tillings says 10.5 max and the hole is straight and centred.

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## Marc

> I think I follow but why a touch sideways!?
> Is this a variation of the U bracket missing one side and thus an L bracket (a drawing maybe).  Keep in mind I have no access to the other face of the lvl.

  Yes .. ok ... no idea how to post a drawing on a mac. (suggestions welcomed)
What I mean is as follows:
 That extendabracket is designed to bolt against the rafter with horizontal bolts and down to the top plate with 2 vertical bolts.
Since you don't have a top plate and screwing in the edge of the laminated beam is not a great idea, you need to make a horizontal surface to bolt against it with your vertical bolts. 
A wide plate with the top section bent at 90 would make just such surface. Say you get a 5mm 200x300 plate, you bend at 100mm along the shorter side, so now you have a large L shaped plate.  The vertical part of the plate you screw with many screws against the face of the beam. The horizontal part of the plate you drill with two holes for your vertical bolts. Of course since the plate is pointing away from the beam, your extendabracket will need to be relocated a tad downstream in order to sit on the plate.

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## phild01

> Yes .. ok ... no idea how to post a drawing on a mac. (suggestions welcomed)
> What I mean is as follows:
>  That extendabracket is designed to bolt against the rafter with horizontal bolts and down to the top plate with 2 vertical bolts.
> Since you don't have a top plate and screwing in the edge of the laminated beam is not a great idea, you need to make a horizontal surface to bolt against it with your vertical bolts. 
> A wide plate with the top section bent at 90 would make just such surface. Say you get a 5mm 200x300 plate, you bend at 100mm along the shorter side, so now you have a large L shaped plate.  The vertical part of the plate you screw with many screws against the face of the beam. The horizontal part of the plate you drill with two holes for your vertical bolts. Of course since the plate is pointing away from the beam, your extendabracket will need to be relocated a tad downstream in order to sit on the plate.

  Get what you mean.  The bracket would actually extend into the room as its the outside I have no access to.  So would need a longer extenda upright. The idea is very close to what I have in mind but larger surface area against the beam, which is better.  I do have a piece of 5mm 200mm duragal channel I can cut to suit my first idea.  Haven't got the brackets yet so have some days to ponder this

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## METRIX

> .  Haven't got the brackets yet so have some days to ponder this

  Are you getting the brackets from Green Shed ?, most stores have them on the shelf, even Thornleigh

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## phild01

> Are you getting the brackets from Green Shed ?, most stores have them on the shelf, even Thornleigh

  2 days ago I was there first guy didn't know what they were and second guy did but said no, don't have them.  Do you know where you saw them.
Hope yu don't mean these: Dunnings 22° Galvanised Extended Fascia Bracket I/N 1076113 | Bunnings Warehouse

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## Moondog55

I don't often say stuff like this .
 BUT
"Ask an engineer?"

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## Marc

According the extenda bracket website all Bunning stores stock them but not according to Bunnings web site ... mm 
However Masters seems to have it  https://www.masters.com.au/product/1...d-mkii-bracket 
Bunnings dude says they don't have it ... does not really mean much  :Smilie:  
Engineer? 
Come on, are we going to go down the path of the electrical forum ... or the "over 600 mm " retaining wall?

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## Marc

> Get what you mean.  The bracket would actually extend into the room as its the outside I have no access to.  So would need a longer extenda upright. The idea is very close to what I have in mind but larger surface area against the beam, which is better.  I do have a piece of 5mm 200mm duragal channel I can cut to suit my first idea.  Haven't got the brackets yet so have some days to ponder this

  Oh I see, inside so the bracket needs to be further up the roof a bit. Longer bracket not really necessary, all you need is to make the plate that bit longer so that it sticks over the edge of the beam and meets the bracket at the normal height. I suppose that a bit of C channel with one side amputated will be just the ticket. Unless the roof is very steep, repositioning the bracket 100mm up the roof should only mean 50mm over the edge or even less.

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## METRIX

> 2 days ago I was there first guy didn't know what they were and second guy did but said no, don't have them.  Do you know where you saw them.
> Hope yu don't mean these: Dunnings 22° Galvanised Extended Fascia Bracket I/N 1076113 | Bunnings Warehouse

  Phil I was there yesterday, and as I expected I got a photo for you, they ALWAYS have had these in stock, as you can tell by the stuffed boxes, they did not just turn up yesterday  :Biggrin:   :Biggrin: , they are next to the PRYDA brackets. 
AHH Bunnings, they would not have a clue what's on half the shelves there  :Rolleyes:   :Tongue: 
Bunnings is a very un environmental company, not only do they sell shelf loads of crap that ends up in landfill, they make everyong do two trips because they don't know what the do and don't sell. 
I once had to get a particular Stainless wire fitting to repair a job which had used a fitting they purchased from Bunnings (some quick grip tool-less thing), I knew Bunnings had them as I had seen them there before. 
I rang Alexandria to see if they had them in stock, the guy in hardware isle, said we don't stock them, I asked don't stock them anymore or never stocked them, he said NEVER stocked them, he also replied I have worked at Bunnings for said years and in the isles where these would be, and have never seen such a fitting or brand name and as you describe. 
I replied I know you have them as I saw them there a few weeks ago, so unless you had a stock clearance they should still be there, he insisted NO NEVER, I replied thanks, but if I come to the shop and find them I will SHOW YOU where they are. 
Guess what, I went to Alexandria store, and found the fitting in about 1 minute of entering the store, right where it was the last time I saw them, BUNCH OF CLOWNS.

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## phild01

Metrix, you are amazing.  Thanks heaps for that as it will now be a quick trip to get them.  You gotta start including aisle numbers :Biggrin: 
Yeah, didn't find it with a google either!!

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## METRIX

> Metrix, you are amazing.  Thanks heaps for that as it will now be a quick trip to get them.  You gotta start including aisle numbers
> Yeah, didn't find it with a google either!!

  You better HURRY UP, I'm going down there now and buying them all, I will meet you in the carpark and resell them at a profit to you, then return them  :Tongue:   :Tongue:   :Tongue:   :Tongue:

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## phild01

Better be quick, I'll ring Shamus or Norm, they'll hide me some  :Harhar:

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## METRIX

> According the extenda bracket website all Bunning stores stock them but not according to Bunnings web site ... mm 
> However Masters seems to have it  https://www.masters.com.au/product/1...d-mkii-bracket 
> Bunnings dude says they don't have it ... does not really mean much  
> Engineer? 
> Come on, are we going to go down the path of the electrical forum ... or the "over 600 mm " retaining wall?

  It's actually over 1000mm  :Tongue:

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## Marc

Yes, I like Bunnings stories, have a bunch of them myself. Did I tell you the one about the middle aged ladies at the "trade" counter whom I asked where the stirrup where whilst in the middle of a nail painting session. They looked at each other bemused and replied looking down at their half painted nails "we don't sell anything for horses"...what about the other one about the SS screws ... yes, could write all day long. 
Must take the good with the bad. Bunnings is about the only hardware store that we have at hand for most things building. Yes there is Masters and Mitre 10  and Home hardware and even Hudsons, but most of the time they are understocked or not in the area. 
Their staff is not trained in hardware. My daughter works at Bunnings and she was hired because she has barista training so she serves coffee. Fair enough, but then they rotate her in the tool shop. 
Fortunately living with me she has been since birth in all sort of hardware and has some idea of tools. Is that enough? Of course not! I have spoken endless times with those who claim to have worked in hardware for 30 years. If they have years in Bunnings, they still have no clue. They are untrained and unhappy most of the time for reasons unknown since the pay is better than average and they are treated well.
Go figure, their managers and I know a few are desperate to find retired tradesman but there are not that many that would take that job.

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## METRIX

> Better be quick, I'll ring Shamus or Norm, they'll hide me some

  Just don't take your new black ute near Shamus, he has a tendency to drop ladders on it, scratching the paintwork and damages your mirror.
Then you will have to go through the Bunnings process of justifying why Bunning's is responsible for this (in writing) and getting 3 quotes to fix it, then again justifying why it was their fault. 
It's another thread just for this one incident, AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH 
Actually, I reckon I could drive there quicker, buy them all and install them quicker than they would answer the phone and actually put you through to the right section, HA HA HA

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## phild01

> Actually, I reckon I could drive there quicker, buy them all and install them quicker than they would answer the phone and actually put you through to the right section, HA HA HA

  Reckon you are right with that :Annoyed: 
thanks for heads up about their Smashinator!

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## METRIX

Other than that Incident he's a great guy, very helpful,

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## phild01

Indeed he is :Smilie:

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## David.Elliott

> Yes, I like Bunnings stories, have a bunch of them myself. Did I tell you the one about the middle aged ladies at the "trade" counter whom I asked where the stirrup where whilst in the middle of a nail painting session. They looked at each other bemused and replied looking down at their half painted nails "we don't sell anything for horses"...what about the other one about the SS screws ... yes, could write all day long. 
> Must take the good with the bad. Bunnings is about the only hardware store that we have at hand for most things building. Yes there is Masters and Mitre 10  and Home hardware and even Hudsons, but most of the time they are understocked or not in the area. 
> Their staff is not trained in hardware. My daughter works at Bunnings and she was hired because she has barista training so she serves coffee. Fair enough, but then they rotate her in the tool shop. 
> Fortunately living with me she has been since birth in all sort of hardware and has some idea of tools. Is that enough? Of course not! I have spoken endless times with those who claim to have worked in hardware for 30 years. If they have years in Bunnings, they still have no clue. They are untrained and unhappy most of the time for reasons unknown since the pay is better than average and they are treated well.
> Go figure, their managers and I know a few are desperate to find retired tradesman but there are not that many that would take that job.

  
Had something a bit similar at the Mandurah B store on a Sat morn...two middle aged and very keen to help ladies on the trade desk. 
Asked for DA Brads and Paslode gun nails. Blank stares... then they pleasantly suggested I should come 'round their side and help myself...

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## phild01

> ... then they pleasantly suggested I should come 'round their side and help myself...

  Had that before as well :Smilie:

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## Marc

> It's actually over 1000mm

  Yes, in VIC and QLD, in NSW it is over 600 need council permission and must be designed by a structural engineer ... probably no one gives a rat about that. 
It also state that in NSW a retaining wall must be at least 900 from the boundary. Considering the number of properties where the retaining wall IS the boundary, I think that NSW with it's California aspirations has gone too far.

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## phild01

Bought the brackets today (sorry Metrix..too slow :Smilie:  ) and have a bit of an idea.
  Firstly I find it a bit strange that the uplift forces are fairly dependent on 2 coach screws.
  Anyway the hole spacing's are quite ideal for my laminated lvl's.  So maybe I can drive extra long M10 coach screws down through the lvl and into the plate the lvl's are secured to (see earlier photo)  I need 175mm M10 gal coach screws but having trouble finding anything over 150mm.
Are coach screws this long available?

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## Gaza

Thread rod with nuts / Washers top and bottom   
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## Moondog55

> Thread rod with nuts / Washers top and bottom   
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  This works almost as well as bolts

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## phild01

> Thread rod with nuts / Washers top and bottom   
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  That was my thought as well, I have a thing with nuts loosening over time but maybe more to do with unseasoned timber.  So in my mind of things, I know a coach screw will stay tight.

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## METRIX

> Bought the brackets today (sorry Metrix..too slow ) and have a bit of an idea.
>   Firstly I find it a bit strange that the uplift forces are fairly dependent on 2 coach screws.
>   Anyway the hole spacing's are quite ideal for my laminated lvl's.  So maybe I can drive extra long M10 coach screws down through the lvl and into the plate the lvl's are secured to (see earlier photo)  I need 175mm M10 gal coach screws but having trouble finding anything over 150mm.
> Are coach screws this long available?

  M10 stop at 150, M12 go to 200, Just put a Hex bolt through and a bit of locktite on the thread if your worried, or a lock nut after the main nut.

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## phild01

drat, ok threaded rod with lock nuts.
Have you ever experienced loose nuts over that distance due to variable moisture levels that KD timber can experience?  That would mean checking this type of work after a year or two.

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## METRIX

Can't say I have, probably because I tighten the living daylights out of them, it would have to shrink an awful lot to catch up to them being embedded in the timber  :Tongue:

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## phild01

Thinking also of having a slightly tight fit hole (if I can get the right drill bit) and gently driving the threaded rod though with a drill and then lock the nuts off.  I'll get it in the end.

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## METRIX

> Thinking also of having a slightly tight fit hole (if I can get the right drill bit) and gently driving the threaded rod though with a drill and then lock the nuts off.  I'll get it in the end.

  Your over thinking it again, just drill the hole and put a bolt through it

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## phild01

> Your over thinking it again, just drill the hole and put a bolt through it

  Somehow I got your message before you posted it :Hmm: . 
This is my concern, the roof will move with wind and those small movements can continue to loosen loose nuts.  Anything loose will accelerate the problem with uplift..
I want grip :Mad3:  :Arge:

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## METRIX

Locktite it in, it won't come loose

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## Marc

Tighten the nuts as strong as you can then get a ball peen hammer and beat the hell out of the end of the rod

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## phild01

Ok, I relent, will do.

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## Moondog55

Hi Phil
We've had the brackets installed for over 3 years now [ holding up some shade sails at the moment] and no movement in all that time; they are solid once installed

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## Teriwrist

As the Gods have already said, use threaded rod, then a flat washer, then a spring washer, then the nut with locktite. You could even double nut it to prevent the first one coming loose, or use nylon nuts, or.... drill a hole in the rod & insert a split pin.

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## phild01

Yes, will do and have a method to do it.  But now found the rafter for one of these has speed brace in the way and being the narrow wall end, do not have another available rafter :Grumble:

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## Moondog55

Sister in a short length to clear the speed brace??

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## Marc

Drill through the brace, pull the nail that is in the way.

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## phild01

> Sister in a short length to clear the speed brace??

  Well one sister won't be enough, she needs a few more brothers as well :Smilie:

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## phild01

> Drill through the brace, pull the nail that is in the way.

  The brace is the tie end to the lvl, cutting it out of the way and in line with the top of the rafter would be unwise:

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## r3nov8or

> The brace is the tie end to the lvl, cutting it out of the way and in line with the top of the rafter would be unwise: Attachment 106535

   I got "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"

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## Marc

Can the bracket be in another position, like further this way?

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## Marc

Can the bracket be in another position, like further this way?

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## phild01

Unfortunately the next and only rafter is just within the spanned area, as well as the door reveal being in the way of placing threaded rod.

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## phild01

> I got "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"

   Interesting, I have re-sized the pic.

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## Marc

May be I don't understand the problem ... I mean to say can you place the extend thingy on that rafter but further down or up where there is no brace?

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## r3nov8or

> Interesting, I have re-sized the pic.

   I see the pic now.

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## Moondog55

All the Extendas need to be in the same line so you can place the beam on them; no problem when they are also mounted to the top plate.
I'm not sure if adding in a big clearance block to support the beam would be allowed as a solution
Phil? Can you remove the short blocking piece and mount the Extenda bracket on the RHS?

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## phild01

> May be I don't understand the problem ... I mean to say can you place the extend thingy on that rafter but further down or up where there is no brace?

  It needs to bear down on the top-plate against a rafter it being the only rafter I can use.  Once it is moved up or down the rafter then it has no significant anchorage and the rafter loading will be altered.

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## phild01

> All the Extendas need to be in the same line so you can place the beam on them; no problem when they are also mounted to the top plate.
> I'm not sure if adding in a big clearance block to support the beam would be allowed as a solution
> Phil? Can you remove the short blocking piece and mount the Extenda bracket on the RHS?

  The 'short blocking' is a short outrigger, major change. 
Do wish I had all this in mind from the outset.

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## Marc

Well, the choices are few. You either fix it on the other side of the rafter, or off the rafter completely on a purposely made support. That, if you want to preserve the brace.
A few steel angles would provide an anchoring point equivalent to the rafter positioned away from the brace

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## phild01

Yes, another thing to consider is offsetting it on the lvl and maybe back to my original mod.

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## Marc

That is what I am saying, position it further to the right of the rafter on the LVL on a mounting that allows to bolt horizontal and vertical. The plate we talked about would hold it in place with a couple of sturdy angle welded to it.

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## phild01

> That is what I am saying, position it further to the right of the rafter on the LVL on a mounting that allows to bolt horizontal and vertical. The plate we talked about would hold it in place with a couple of sturdy angle welded to it.

  Yes, I knew what you meant, just didn't come out right.  I think it is best that I bolt through on the far side (outside) of the bracket's base and use a decent size angle I can use multiple screws, maybe with a face area of 200x100, to the inside face of the beam.  The bolt will also hold this angle plate. 
edit: nah, no good! The rafter actually braces the support in that plane.  Need to keep thinking.

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## phild01

...deciding to install a false intermediate rafter that will be trimmed to the rafters either side, these should give the bracket the bracing it needs.

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## Marc

Do you have access to the other side?

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## phild01

> Do you have access to the other side?

  What you see is what you get :Smilie: 
No, unfortunately all is finished work on the other sides and hacking into it will be unworkable.

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## phild01

Finally did the extenda bracket by inserting a shadow rafter member.  Found that cup head bolts come in a longer range than hex heads.

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## r3nov8or

Nice work!

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## phild01

> Nice work!

  thanks.

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## METRIX

Phil, that hole in the tile is slightly off to one side, might cause structural problems with the brackets,  :Biggrin:   :Tongue:   :Biggrin:

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## phild01

> Phil, that hole in the tile is slightly off to one side, might cause structural problems with the brackets,

  Yeah, really annoyed about that :Wink 1: , but the wind was driving me crazy, kept blowing my ladder over :Mad:

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## Marc

I think the hole is fine and centred, it's the bracket that needs to be repositioned  :Biggrin:

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## phild01

> I think the hole is fine and centred, it's the bracket that needs to be repositioned

  Yeah, onto it tomorrow :Sneaktongue:

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## geeseman

> Yeah, onto it tomorrow

  Was it hard to drill the hole in the tile?
Im looking to install some on my roof, however Im thinking of paying a tradie to do it.
Anyone have any tradies in Sydney area who are familiar with these roof extendas?
thanks

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## phild01

Cutting the hole in the tile was the easiest part of the job.  Some will hack it with an angle grinder and that is harder to do.  I bought some diamond hole saws from China for a couple of dollars each, they don't have a pilot bit but were still easy to control in my battery drill, a bit of water lubrication and done in under a minute.
Reckon this could be a great set to have at hand: 16pc SET 6mm 50mm Diamond Coated Hole SAW Drill BIT Marble Ceramic Glass Tile AU | eBay

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## r3nov8or

> ...
> Reckon this could be a great set to have at hand: 16pc SET 6mm 50mm Diamond Coated Hole SAW Drill BIT Marble Ceramic Glass Tile AU | eBay

   That's less than $2 each!! And I really don't get how they do the free postage thing on bulky items. It's either highly gov't subsidised for China's global domination plans or it's all slave labour to produce this stuff. Maybe it's both...

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## Moondog55

I have a feeling China Post do Air-container shipping and wait until a container is full before loading but the other scenario is also a valid interpretation

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