# Forum Home Renovation The Garden Shed  Timber stud wall in stratco shed - how to anchor?

## AdelaideSteve

I'm in the process of lining a 6m x 6m x 2.7m h Stratco shed, such that it can be used for a kids rumpus room / storage area.  I had the installers put aircell insulation up while installing the roof, and I've put timber stud frames on all the walls, and walled in a room in the corner for a lockable storage area. 
The walls sit flush against the girts, I've got plastic dampcourse  between the sole-plate and the concrete floor, and I've attached the wall to the steel C-section girts with a couple of uni-ties, using nails for the stud end and tek-screws for the girts. 
On the side walls, I'm unable to use the ties to attach to the top girt, because the roof gets in the way.  This isn't a problem with the gable end wall.  Now the question - if the walls are attached in about 6 places with unities, and they are sitting on top of the concrete floor, is it necessary to also anchor them to the floor with dynabolts, like I have with the partition walls? 
The walls are made from 90x45 scantling pine (not structural grade - got it really cheap) and I've ensured that the finished side faces out so that I put the gyprock up. 
I've attached some pictures   Here's the unities i've used to anchor the walls  Here's the wall, not anchored to the bottom girt, but it will be. Here's the complete wall Partition wall has been dynabolted. Corner showing the top girt for the gable end (which I can anchor to) and the side wall, which I can't anchor to the top. 
Any advice would be great - if you wonder why i'm using timber frame instead of just tophat studs or something, I'm trying to get better noise insulation, so the more mass in the walls the better, plus with lots of studs I can hang stuff wherever I want, especially in the storage room.  And the timber was dirt cheap  :Smilie:  
Steve

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## The Roofer

Steve 
Shed looks great - I would do the following: see picture
1.  Add flat plate connectors to top timber stud & top purlin.
2.  Add angle connectors to the end wall top timber plate and portal frame.
3.  Add more unities to more of the studs.
4.  Dyna bolt your bottom plate all round the exterior.  
The shed is engineered - so everything you do here will just add to structural strength. 
You could even use cyclone rods through from top timber plate to floor by a connector to long dyna bolt or chemical anchor stud bolt.

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## AdelaideSteve

> Steve 
> Shed looks great - I would do the following: see picture
> 1.  Add flat plate connectors to top timber stud & top purlin.
> 2.  Add angle connectors to the end wall top timber plate and portal frame.
> 3.  Add more unities to more of the studs.
> 4.  Dyna bolt your bottom plate all round the exterior.
>  You could even use cyclone rods through from top timber plate to floor by a connector to long dyna bolt or chemical anchor stud bolt.

  
OK slight problem with using those flat plate connectors is that the C purlin has the open side down - so I would only have a very narrow lip that I could attach to.  Instead I will probably just get some strap and feed it around the purlin, under the roof sheet, and nail both ends to the top plate. 
Cyclone rods sound like overkill for our location. 
The reason I asked about the dynabolts is that I'm worried about cracking or damaging the slab so close to the edge.  I also don't have much luck with them, having stuffed up two of them when anchoring the partition wall - I was hoping to get enough integrity by tying it to the three girts, and possibly strapping it to the columns (portal frames). 
Steve

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## Belair_Boy

Instead of using dynabolts use Ramset "Ankascrew" or the equivalent Power Fasteners "Screw-bolt"    
They are easy to use and good for edge applications as they don't expand.
As long as you drill the correct size hole you will have no problems with them.

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## The Roofer

Belair Boy - good suggestion - easy and no problem with edges! 
Steve - Just make sure you blow out the holes of all dust etc. You'll get the integrity with all the ties above. The cyclone rods are overkill! 
Feeding strap around is fine - but you can Tek Screw the plates as the purlin will still give 10mm of lip or so depending on size.

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## AdelaideSteve

> Instead of using dynabolts use Ramset "Ankascrew" or the equivalent Power Fasteners "Screw-bolt"    
> They are easy to use and good for edge applications as they don't expand.
> As long as you drill the correct size hole you will have no problems with them.

  Thanks for that Belair_Boy, the screw-bolts did the trick.  I'm now full steam ahead with pink-batts and ready to gyprock this week  :Smilie:

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