# Forum Home Renovation Waterproofing  how long does water proofing last for?

## ashman

I built a house 15 years ago through a reputable builder who is still even around today. I recently noticed the room next to the bathroom the plaster is wet, after getting a plumber to confirm its not any plumbing thats leaking, it has been confirmed the shower is leaking... 
im just curious to know how this happens, was it due to a poor job or is there a time limit on water proofing?

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## sol381

id think there would be a leak in the combination or taps before waterproof failed...water running down the cavity is probably the culprit..

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## METRIX

If waterproofing is done correctly there is no reason it would not be fine in 20 / 30 years, saying that things have changed a lot in 15 years, with better membranes and practices.
Also saying that, the building practices I have seen on this forum from Perth leave a lot to be desired

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## Snipper

Well it seems most company's will only guarantee their systems for 10 years so not much point blaming the builder after 15 years.  The problem with the acrylic membrane, cheap ones especially, is it can re-emulsify if water is able to pool on it anywhere so a rough job also be to blame.  Polyurethane membranes allow me to sleep easier at night.

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## cyclic

Assuming it is a tiled base ????????? there is no give in waterproof membranes so any movement in slab/frame will cause membranes to crack.
Is it a tiled base ??

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## wspivak

> I built a house 15 years ago through a reputable builder who is still even around today. I recently noticed the room next to the bathroom the plaster is wet, after getting a plumber to confirm its not any plumbing thats leaking, it has been confirmed the shower is leaking... 
> im just curious to know how this happens, was it due to a poor job or is there a time limit on water proofing?

  Hi Ashman, 
Most modern, good quality, waterproofing membranes should last a minimum of 10 years, and likely much longer than that.  As someone said earlier, technology has changed quite a fair bit in the last 15 years, so a product from 15 years ago (circa 2001) would almost certainly be of an acrylic variety, which the poorer of the species have poor elasticity and re-emulsify when in areas of pooling water. 
These days, good quality water-based urethane/acrylics and latex (SBR) based products are in use, which generally have far better elasticity than their predecessors and will not re-emulsify once they are cured.

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## Elliot44

My question is - especially in NSW, when you get a 'waterproofing certificate' with a guarantee of 7 - 10 years - is how people attach shower screens and towel rails (etc) without puncturing the waterproofing. 
Because any guarantee is void if you punch through the waterproofing.  So how do you get a glass shower screen secure with waterproofing is up the wall 1.6 or whatever the regulation is without punching through it for a heavy shower screen? 
Or if you fix a datum rail to the wall where you can't get tile jacks in - where the floor is uneven and you are using heavy tiles...

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## Bigboboz

I always thought the waterproofing is the second line of defence to the tiles and grout.  Tiles are obviously waterproof but the grout won't be perfect but short of sustained submersion I figured the virtually all water will drain with gravity. 
Is that right?

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## goldie1

> My question is - especially in NSW, when you get a 'waterproofing certificate' with a guarantee of 7 - 10 years - is how people attach shower screens and towel rails (etc) without puncturing the waterproofing. 
> Because any guarantee is void if you punch through the waterproofing.  So how do you get a glass shower screen secure with waterproofing is up the wall 1.6 or whatever the regulation is without punching through it for a heavy shower screen? 
> Or if you fix a datum rail to the wall where you can't get tile jacks in - where the floor is uneven and you are using heavy tiles...

  You only waterproof to the top of the screen in the shower area. The rest of the room is  the  
floor and 150mm  up the walls plus around the tub and vanity so towel rails don't penetrate 
 the waterproofing. The shower screen is fitted to the edge of the waterproofed area and  
screw holes are sealed before the screws are fitted. When you say a datum rail do you 
mean a batten fixed to the wall to support the second row of tiles. I work of a chalk 
line and start by cutting in the bottom row.

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## goldie1

> I always thought the waterproofing is the second line of defence to the tiles and grout.  Tiles are obviously waterproof but the grout won't be perfect but short of sustained submersion I figured the virtually all water will drain with gravity. 
> Is that right?

  You are essentially correct. Tiles do become porous over time so gravity directs water over the  
waterproofing layer to the drain

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## Oldsaltoz

Waterproofing of showers should last many years, 30 plus in most cases. However you can have problems with movement on timber structures due to movement over time. 
Another common problem is the lack of a gap to allow for movement between the floor tiles and the wall to floor joint. This should be 3 to 5mm and be filled with a sealant that will flex, not grout or tile glue that has fallen when laying the wall tiles. Tiles expand then hot water falls on them. 
Leaking plumbing can also cause leaks when timber swells when wet or it rots leaving no support. 
Testing for leaks Must be done in the following order. 
First test for Shower base leaks:
Cover the floor waste with some cling wrap and fill the shower base to a point just below the top tile if a hob is fitted or just up to the class for a normal shower. 
Note: Do not fill the shower via the shower head, use a hose from outside or fill a bucket from a handy tap. 
Place a strip of toilet paper around the edge of the shower flat on the floor tiles. Wait for at least 20 minutes. the paper will show the start point of any leaks outside the shower.
Only after this should you check the plumbing. 
Then start by removing the shower head at the spigot, the bit where the pipe comes out of the wall. Plug this off with a brass fitting available from any plumbing shop or even the green shed. Use some thread sealing tape to ensure no water runs out via the threads on the fittings. Turn on both taps or set the mixer in the middle and pull handle out to full flow setting.
Now wait at least 20 to 30 minutes and check every 5 to 10 minutes for leaks. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## markcuban

For any shower installation, waterproofing is must to avoid any leakage.     Shower Glass Treatment NZ

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