# Forum Home Renovation Home Theatres  Home Theatre Riser Ideas

## Sterob

Hi Guys,
I want to make a riser for the rear row of seats in my soon-to-be-completed Home Theatre.
I have a small offset ( for want of a better word...) along the rear wall, where a 'half wall' stops, and think I will make it into two parts for easier moving ( if I ever have to)
It needs to be around 300mm high and support 3 reclining chairs, and I have two trains of thought....
First idea is to make it out of 45 x 290mm pine  boards for the edges and 45 x 140mm boards for the stringers every 600mm or so and cover with 25mm ply. Make a small lap join and screw the two parts together once located in position. 
The second is to make two timber frames out of 45 x 90mm pine, also fit 45 x 90mm stringers every 600mm or so and lift the up on 300mm legs every 600mm or so, cover the top with 25mm ply and the sides with 6mm ply.
This method might be lighter and therefore easier to make and move around? 
Jeez this is hard to put into words....lol 
Both sections joined will be approx 2800 x 1500mm and the offset will be 100mm about half way along the back. ( that is where the join will be.) 
I have a Triton work bench and all the toys to do joins , if required, to do this.  
I guess I am asking which would be the preferred method, or is it just personal preference? Once its in place, I guess I'll only have to move it if/when I sell the home and that is not likely for a long time AFAIK...lol 
Thoughts and comments welcome. 
Steve

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## Sterob

I guess no one cares either way...lol
Ok, I'll forge on..... 
Steve.

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## seriph1

Sorry mate  -  time of year... 
I guess the maximum weight these things will ever take is around 400 KG plus the weight of the chairs which wouldn't be more than 40 KG each. BTW I hear ya, about difficulty putting things into words  -  welcome to my world! It does force one to ensure clarity though, especially when someone else is doing the actual work. Imagine saying to a painter "oh you know ... that yellow colour  -  anyway, you'll work it out" Then you come home to a room that looks like Dulux vomited on the walls. 
... even the most basic sketch would help folks to advise better, but from what you've said I think version "A" will work although it is almost certainly gross overkill (45mm beams hold houses up!) 25mm ply is also overkill given that flooring chipboard is 19mm or maybe 22mm. Don't get me wrong - over-engineered is fine, but the cost will be considerably less to use other materials that will do the job perfectly well. Version 2 is lighter and will certainly be like you said  -  easier to carry around if you ever need to. I wouldn't use 6mm though, as it has no strength except in tension. 
Can you do a quick drawing (plan elevation) ...?

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## seriph1

by the way do you mean the seats will be 300mm off the floor? If so, will you be having a step as well or do people just climb up the 300mm in one go? 
Are you make it in-situ or off site and installing it there? It may be a critical factor. 
Also, why is it 300mm and not 200 or 250? Just asking how you arrived at that number

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## Sterob

> by the way do you mean the seats will be 300mm off the floor? If so, will you be having a step as well or do people just climb up the 300mm in one go? 
> Are you make it in-situ or off site and installing it there? It may be a critical factor. 
> Also, why is it 300mm and not 200 or 250? Just asking how you arrived at that number

  Thanks for the reply Steve,
Yes, In hindsight,I should have attached some pics. :Doh:  I *was* trying to build a 3D drawing in Sketchup but I haven't learned the art yet....
I have a plan view drawing just to give me an idea of sizes and a couple of pics where it is going. 
The use of 45mm beams seem to be what most of the risers, on the Net are made from. I guess it gives the strength as well as enough area for fasteners to hold the flooring down.
I hear ya regarding the floor thickness......I guess it depends on how wide my bearers are in relation to the floor thickness.
The idea to use 6mm on the sides is just for cosmetics as the framework would be taking the weight, in that version.
Yes, the riser will be 300mm high and I have thought about a step, but it depends on how long I build the riser, that will determine where the step will be.....( on the side or on the front.)
I did a side view CAD drawing of my room and worked out I need 300mm so the rear seats can see the bottom of the screen. Screen and sound is already set up..
The seats are still 8 weeks away, so when they arrive, I have a couple of pallets I am going to sit a chair on to try and determine the height I need, before I start building.
I want to make it in the shed and move into position, probably in two parts, and then screw them together, in position. I won't need to move them unless something unforeseen happens...lol 
The room is 3500mm wide and the step from the hallway is 200mm high. I only need the riser to be 2800mm wide for the seating. I don't know whether its best to keep the riser short and have a step up to the seating position or make the riser the full 3500mm wide and have a step off the front when I need to access the HTPC and Amp... 
Steve

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## seriph1

very interesting  -  is that the front door to the left? 
Your thinking is pretty sound I reckon, but I believe a step will be necessary somewhere, if anyone with knee issues or older persons are going to be using the room. It also looks more thoughtful and finished to have it "like the real ones"  In fact you could have a lower section in the middle like a aisle, depending how you intend to gain access to the front seats. Ergonomically I 'believe' 17 degrees below horizontal is the ideal viewing position but I am sure there's a range that would be comfortable. I just know a LOT of people who deeply regret placing TVs on walls in place of pictures or above fireplaces.

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## Sterob

> very interesting  -  is that the front door to the left? 
> Your thinking is pretty sound I reckon, but I believe a step will be necessary somewhere, if anyone with knee issues or older persons are going to be using the room. It also looks more thoughtful and finished to have it "like the real ones"  In fact you could have a lower section in the middle like a aisle, depending how you intend to gain access to the front seats. Ergonomically I 'believe' 17 degrees below horizontal is the ideal viewing position but I am sure there's a range that would be comfortable. I just know a LOT of people who deeply regret placing TVs on walls in place of pictures or above fireplaces.

  Hi Steve,
Yeah, a step will be needed somewhere, I just haven't decide where yet. I was going to have the access way down the left wall ( facing the screen ) so all the  3 chairs are together and it minises chairs being off-centre to the screen.
I can stop the rise short and have people step down and then step up  onto the riser or run the riser all the way and step onto the riser and only have to step down when going to the HT equipment ( me.)
I have to decide before I start building the riser..... :Biggrin:  
Are you  saying that  looking down ~17° is the most comfortable angle for watching a screen?My screen isn't very high but  I am prepared to move the screen lower if that is the case, but will watch some moves in different locations to gauge it before I do. The chairs are electric recliners so that may negate the need to lower the screen....I will see....  
Regards
Steve

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## seriph1

yes, looking down 17 degrees is what I meant. Ok back to work for me

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## Pulse

I think 300mm is a bit high, too much for a single step and too small for two 150mm steps. The platform will creak heaps unless you build it as a permanent feature. I would dynabolt 70x35 pine to the slab and then run 'bearers and joists' perpendicular to each other to get to about 180-250mm. Then sheet the whole thing in yellow tongue glued and screwed. Then carpet and redo skirting. For extra points some low voltage recessed wall lights to light the step, and heavy curtains down each wall and a layer or perforated plasterboard for the ceiling! 
Cheers
pulse

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## Sterob

> I think 300mm is a bit high, too much for a single step and too small for two 150mm steps. The platform will creak heaps unless you build it as a permanent feature. I would dynabolt 70x35 pine to the slab and then run 'bearers and joists' perpendicular to each other to get to about 180-250mm. Then sheet the whole thing in yellow tongue glued and screwed. Then carpet and redo skirting. For extra points some low voltage recessed wall lights to light the step, and heavy curtains down each wall and a layer or perforated plasterboard for the ceiling! 
> Cheers
> pulse

  Yes, I might be too high. Its speculation at the moment until I can do some checks when the chairs arrive. I guess I have to consider worst case scenario where the rears are reclined but the fronts are not and the the rear views can still see the screen...dunno, maybe that is going too far.....
I want it to be permanent, but not leave any evidence behind if it needs to be removed. A tall order I know.
I have thought about curtains down the walls and step lighting. Not sure about the perforated ceiling.....
Steve

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