# Forum Home Renovation Heating & Cooling  Help Identifying Wood Heater

## Sterob

I acquired this old wood heater for use in my shed. The basic structure is sound so I am just going to do a quick tidy up and install it.
It *looks* to as if is an old Kent fireplace, but I need to be sure so I can scrounge some parts for it.
What makes me say that is it looks like it has thin gold strips along the bottom tray and I think Kent does that. 
Does it look familiar to anyone?

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## Bloss

> I acquired this old wood heater for use in my shed. The basic structure is sound so I am just going to do a quick tidy up and install it.
> It *looks* to as if is an old Kent fireplace, but I need to be sure so I can scrounge some parts for it.
> What makes me say that is it looks like it has thin gold strips along the bottom tray and I think Kent does that. 
> Does it look familiar to anyone?

  Yep looks like a Kent to me - but in appalling condition. I don't know why you'd bother to try to get it into working order as good condition 2nd hand models of a range of brands come onto the market free or at low rates pretty often. Well around here anyway.

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## Sterob

> Yep looks like a Kent to me - but in appalling condition. I don't know why you'd bother to try to get it into working order as good condition 2nd hand models of a range of brands come onto the market free or at low rates pretty often. Well around here anyway.

  Thanks Bloss. I don't have access to any 2nd hand fires close by. I've seen a couple on Gumtree but they were ~$450. A bit rich for a shed  heater!
Trust me....I've looked...lol
The basic casing is fine...it just needs the surface rust removed and some cosmetic parts.

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## Smurf

I guess it depends on the local market etc. Down here it's pretty easy to get practically any kind of heater going cheap second hand. But then Tasmanians are notorious for changing the method of heating in their houses, hence the easy availability of second hand ones. 
A bit off topic but I note that the original poster is from Collie (WA). I assume you are going to burn wood in the heater and not coal? Only thing I know about Collie is that there's a coal mine there but I've no idea if people use that to heat their homes or if wood is easily available also? Reason for asking is that if you want coal to burn properly in one of these heaters then ideally it's best to add a grate in my experience.  :Smilie:

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## Uncle Bob

Yep it's a Kent. I had over of these in the shed on the farm (that I lived in for about a year).
Mine didn't have glass left so I fixed sheet metal in it's place but mainly just left the door open to see the flames lol.

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## Sterob

> I guess it depends on the local market etc. Down here it's pretty easy to get practically any kind of heater going cheap second hand. But then Tasmanians are notorious for changing the method of heating in their houses, hence the easy availability of second hand ones. 
> A bit off topic but I note that the original poster is from Collie (WA). I assume you are going to burn wood in the heater and not coal? Only thing I know about Collie is that there's a coal mine there but I've no idea if people use that to heat their homes or if wood is easily available also? Reason for asking is that if you want coal to burn properly in one of these heaters then ideally it's best to add a grate in my experience.

  Good pick up Smurf....lol Yep, we got lots of coal but I won't be using it....no-one does...too dirty. 
I have been trying to work out what model it is. Nothing seems to match exactly ( air inlet knob location, dimensions, etc. ) 
Maybe its a discontinued model, dunno.....
I'd like to know so I know what parts to ask for at the heating store.

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## Bloss

BTW the 'rope' around the door glass will be asbestos - and will let fly fine dust if you simply pull it out. 1. Wear goggles & mask 2 - wet down with water first. You can get fibreglass replacement fireproofing rope.

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## Sterob

> BTW the 'rope' around the door glass will be asbestos - and will let fly fine dust if you simply pull it out. 1. Wear goggles & mask 2 - wet down with water first. You can get fibreglass replacement fireproofing rope.

  Thanks Bloss. Will Do.
I've been looking for a spare parts supplier so I can confirm the model but had no luck so far. I'll just have to take the glass down and see if i can find one in stock ( if they carry them. ) 
I'm going to get the Heater sandblasted, paint it heat proof paint and then look for new parts then. 
The fire bricks are mostly missing. Are they really definitely needed or can I get away without them for a shed heater? 
Steve

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## toooldforthis

hi Steve
if u search gumtree for "wood" and "parts"
you will find a guy in Parkerville, Mundaring Shire
here is his phone no: 9295-6929
I have no idea about him, never rung him etc.
he has "Wood-Heater and Potbelly Stove Parts"
in Perth of course. 
good luck 
Steve

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## shauck

Post some pics of it renovated. I'd like to see that.

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## GraemeCook

> Post some pics of it renovated. I'd like to see that.

    Me too! 
Good Morning Sterob 
Early Kent heaters did not use firebricks - my 1981 model does not have them - so this might help identify the model. 
All stoves eventually burn out through the roof of the firebox - I suggest that you carefully examine yours very carefully (easiest to see if you turn it upside down) .   If any signs of wear then consider whether it is worth restoring, or weld a 6mm steel plate in as a firebox roof liner. 
Fire bricks are readily available at any store that sells stoves, and cheap.   They are essential for stoves designed to use bricks. 
Ditto, replacement door seal rope.   Cut to length, put ordinary PVA glue into door slot, push rope into slot and then close door until glue dries.  Easy job. 
Should really warm the workshop - twice - during restoration and then in use.   And you will be able to burn the evidence.... 
Fair Winds 
Graeme

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## Sterob

> hi Steve
> if u search gumtree for "wood" and "parts"
> you will find a guy in Parkerville, Mundaring Shire
> here is his phone no: 9295-6929
> I have no idea about him, never rung him etc.
> he has "Wood-Heater and Potbelly Stove Parts"
> in Perth of course. 
> good luck 
> Steve

  Thanks Steve, that sounds like my best bet. I'll give him a ring a and see if he can help me.

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## Sterob

> Post some pics of it renovated. I'd like to see that.

  Ok, It won't be flash as its only a shed heater but it will do the job....lol

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## Sterob

> Me too! 
> Good Morning Sterob 
> Early Kent heaters did not use firebricks - my 1981 model does not have them - so this might help identify the model. 
> All stoves eventually burn out through the roof of the firebox - I suggest that you carefully examine yours very carefully (easiest to see if you turn it upside down) .   If any signs of wear then consider whether it is worth restoring, or weld a 6mm steel plate in as a firebox roof liner. 
> Fire bricks are readily available at any store that sells stoves, and cheap.   They are essential for stoves designed to use bricks. 
> Ditto, replacement door seal rope.   Cut to length, put ordinary PVA glue into door slot, push rope into slot and then close door until glue dries.  Easy job. 
> Should really warm the workshop - twice - during restoration and then in use.   And you will be able to burn the evidence.... 
> Fair Winds 
> Graeme

  Thanks Graeme, Mine has evidence of fire bricks so I better replace them. The baffle plate is bowed up and has  hole in it,so that need attention as well. I assume the baffle plate SHOULD have protected the top of the fire box, but may not have with the hole in it. Will check.
The glass and frame will be the biggest hurdles  but not investigated that yet,so don't know.
I didn't know PVA was ok for that job. I'm impressed...lol
Thanks for all the comments guys,most helpful. 
Steve

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## Smurf

The baffle with these heaters (of any brand) always wears out eventually. Most people just get a piece of normal steel plate as a replacement rather than a "proper" new part from the manufacturer simply because it's cheaper, easier and does the same job. That said, the proper ones (at least with the heater I have - it still has the original baffle) have some reinforcing welded on which won't be there with just a plain steel plate. 
And yes, you do need a baffle - otherwise half the heat goes up the flue and you'll wear out the firebox more rapidly than otherwise. Within reason, thicker is better so far as baffles are concerned.  
PVA glue - yep, that's what everyone uses and it works fine. A certain very well known national BBQ retail chain sells the rope, as do others.

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## Bloss

Well I guess you learn something new - PVA glue? Since those doors can easily be at 250-300 degrees and PVA is rated to 110C that seems odd to me as I would expect any adhesive qualities to simply be inactivated and perhaps some fumes and disintegration of the glue? I have always simply used the correct sized fire-rated rope and it stays in place by friction ie: an interference fit - I can't see why glue would be needed at all, but I'll bow to superior wisdom. 
As to the baffle - I refurbished a Kent (many years ago) and use an 8mm plate and copied the original (which had buckled and had hole too) which had some reinforcing - simply two (I think) strips of steel welded on edge. That then lasted until I removed and sold the stove - which is still in use and >25 years old. BTW - that was a Kent 'Tile' which in improved form is still available Kent Heating Range - Best buy and low running cost products from Kent .

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## chrisp

I'm envious! 
I have to confess that I've been looking for a cheap wood burning heater for my workshop.  I've had a bit of a look about but I've given the idea away due to the cost of the heaters. 
I'm keen to see how your unit works out.   :Smilie:

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## Sterob

> I'm envious! 
> I have to confess that I've been looking for a cheap wood burning heater for my workshop.  I've had a bit of a look about but I've given the idea away due to the cost of the heaters. 
> I'm keen to see how your unit works out.

  So far its cheap, but it might not end up that way.....lol I guess I won't mind spending a bit if the bit I start with was free.
I'll use new flue as its not worth using old stuff, I reckon. We will see. 
Still trying to determine the exact model. The Coonara looks the closest so far but I don't think its the same.

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## Smurf

> Well I guess you learn something new - PVA glue?

  I had some concerns about the way the heater was installed in this house at the time of house purchase, so I got a professional to check it. Apparently the installation itself was safe, but he replaced the door rope and cleaned the flue. I noted that he used PVA glue and, since he does this sort of work all the time, I'm just assuming that's the right way of doing it....

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## Bloss

> I had some concerns about the way the heater was installed in this house at the time of house purchase, so I got a professional to check it. Apparently the installation itself was safe, but he replaced the door rope and cleaned the flue. I noted that he used PVA glue and, since he does this sort of work all the time, I'm just assuming that's the right way of doing it....

  mmm - I reckon it is simply unnecessary. It might emit some nasty fumes when it first gets hot enough, but they would be around long. I just can't see why it is needed - I've down lots of maintenance on fireplaces over the years and have used fireproof putty (asbestos containing in the olden days!) and asbestos rope too, but ropes were always simply correctly sized for an interference fit. Either pre-shaped for the particular stove brand or just the correct diameter for the groove/ slot into which it was pressed. So can't see why any 'glue' would be needed and if it were a wood glue would not be the right type anyway. My guess is he needed to hold some rope in place at some point he tried what he had (PVA), it worked and he kept using it. He wouldn't have been around when it broke down and it would be a small amount anyway so no-one would ever raise it as an issue.

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## Uncle Bob

> I'm envious! 
> I have to confess that I've been looking for a cheap wood burning heater for my workshop.  I've had a bit of a look about but I've given the idea away due to the cost of the heaters. 
> I'm keen to see how your unit works out.

  44 gallon drum will work, for a few years anyhow  :Wink:

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## chrisp

> 44 gallon drum will work, for a few years anyhow

  I didn't think I'd get a few years....    
Timber floor!   :Smilie:

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## Uncle Bob

> I didn't think I'd get a few years.... 
> Timber floor!

  Well you won't run out of fuel for awhile  :Wink:  
Edit: Seriously now, I wood (lol) be careful with any combustible device with dust around. Dust explosion anyone?  :Eek:

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## Uncle Bob

> I didn't think I'd get a few years....

  That's a fine looking bench. I see you have a vice for vices  :Biggrin:

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## shauck

> Ok, It won't be flash as its only a shed heater but it will do the job....lol

  You could make it flash tho, do something out of the ordinary? Welding it into a piece of sculpture or something?

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## Sterob

> You could make it flash tho, do something out of the ordinary? Welding it into a piece of sculpture or something?

  Nope I just want to warm the shed a bit....lol

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## shauck

> Nope I just want to warm the shed a bit....lol

  Aww. Go on. Give it a tail pipe and big flash mags  :Biggrin:

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## Sterob

The restoration is progressing. I think I can get all the parts to make it a runner.
I am getting some steel plate cut for a higher stand ( 500mm ). I don't really want to stoop top the wood up. Also making a new baffle plate out of 5mm plate.
I've found a very close replacement for the door glass retainer. Its a Kent part but I do not know what model it came off. A Google has not helped and the shop I bought it from just shrugged when I asked..... ( Part No on the bag is HS-37 )
It mounts different to the door than the original but, nothing I can't fabricate.  
Can anyone tell me how the glass is sealed in the door on kent heaters? I know there is a 12mm rope seal around the edge for glass frame but I was wondering how the flat 20mm wide sealing is used.
Does it get wrapped around the edge of the glass ( folding over both sides of the glass, or laid flat on one or both sides of the glass? ) The offset in the frame is 13mm and the glass is 5mm thick so there is room for two thicknesses of 4mm thick flat seal, if thats whats needed...... 
The ( I assume ) original glass seems way too small for the new frame, so I am going to get a bigger piece cut to suit the new frame. How the flat seal is used will determine how big the glass needs to be ( If I need to leave room around the edge for sealing material...)   
Steve

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## Sterob

Job has been going well.  I got some steel cut for the stand and a baffle plate and the new door frame will be finished tomorrow. 
I'm pretty sure I found the correct fire bricks for this heater, and I have been trying to work out how they are installed to get the best coverage.
I assumed that I would not need to cut any fire bricks in order to get them to fit properly, but that does not seem to be the case. Does anyone know if one still has to cut bricks even if you have to correct sized bricks?
I looks to me that I will need to cut about four bricks roughly in half ( not exactly so the waste will be significant. ) in order to achieve a good result.
 Weird if you do. I would have thought careful design would have negated that need and save time/money during manufacture of the heater.
Not a big deal but the bricks cost me $9 each so they are not very cheap. 
Steve

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## Sterob

This project has been progressing well and I am about 80% finished.
I just have to finish  cutting a couple of fire bricks, make wooden handles for the door and air control, bolt the heater to the stand  and install the flue.
Steve.

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## Bloss

Lookin' good!  :2thumbsup:  
I assume the base will be bolted down and further stability added from the chimney.

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## Moondog55

*NICE*
Now seeing as how you have made a tall stand so you don't need to bend down when loading the fire, remember to remind yourself to also make a tallish wood box; so you don't have to bend down to pick up the firewood

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## Sterob

> Lookin' good!  
> I assume the base will be bolted down and further stability added from the chimney.

  
No, I don't think it will need bolting down.I'll just bolt the fire box to the stand. The base is about the same size as the box so it would take a hard knock to make it tip over.

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## Sterob

> *NICE*
> Now seeing as how you have made a tall stand so you don't need to bend down when loading the fire, remember to remind yourself to also make a tallish wood box; so you don't have to bend down to pick up the firewood

  Thanks Mooddog, Yep, that was the  idea. Save the back. Never considered the wood box...lol  
I finished cutting the fire bricks and made wood handles for the door and air control today. All done , bar the shouting....

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