# Forum Home Renovation Fences & Screens  Building a Merbau screening for a deck side

## thirsty

I used 90x45 treated pine for a box frame and will have to put the screws in on the front of the Merbau 90x19 (dressed side). Will it look stupid with screws in on the dressed side for the screening. The framing side is what you will see from the outside of the deck (from down the backyard. Wondering what the best way to build this merbau screening is....so that there backyard side doesn't look ugly.

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## Bleedin Thumb

Its a bit hard to picture without ...well uno pictures... but you will only see the screws when you within a couple of metres of them....unless you have shot eyesight. :Biggrin:  
I would put them on the frame side if its really worrying you ....but beware! you may need to clamp every batten before you screw to get a good bite......  
When you screw 2 bits of timber together its sort of preferably to have the screw side timber pre-drilled so the screw doesn't bite (too much anyway) and all the pull is in the back piece of timber....NOTE this is purely from my own experience ...I have never read this or been taught this from anywhere so it could be blowies... :Blush7:

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## Bedford

> When you screw 2 bits of timber together its sort of preferably to have the screw side timber pre-drilled so the screw doesn't bite (too much anyway) and all the pull is in the back piece of timber....NOTE this is purely from my own experience ...I have never read this or been taught this from anywhere so it could be blowies...

  I'd go along with this, also sometimes you can use a screw that is not threaded all the way up the shank, this will allow it to "strip" in the first bit and grip in the second, pulling the joint together. :Smilie:

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## ScroozAdmin

> When you screw 2 bits of timber together its sort of preferably to have the screw side timber pre-drilled so the screw doesn't bite (too much anyway) and all the pull is in the back piece of timber....NOTE this is purely from my own experience ...I have never read this or been taught this from anywhere so it could be blowies...

  pretty accurate actually, this helps the joint to have a clamping action to really tighten down.   

> I'd go along with this, also sometimes you can use a screw that is not threaded all the way up the shank, this will allow it to "strip" in the first bit and grip in the second, pulling the joint together.

  the unthreaded shanks are slightly tapered also on genuine woodscrews to help grip the front timber section, hence people used to lube them to help get them in, especially with the old yankee drivers. In the fast paced world of today where everyone uses powerdrivers most screws are now 'multi purpose' with longer thread lengths and less taper for faster easier driving. 
could bore you to tears about screws all day  :Biggrin:

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## thirsty

what's a good gap to set for lots of privacy? 
would it look stupid if at about half way up I increase the gap for the second half

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## Bleedin Thumb

> what's a good gap to set for lots of privacy? 
> would it look stupid if at about half way up I increase the gap for the second half

  
I would go 20mm gap and yes it would look stupid IMO. I would keep it even spacing.

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## thirsty

I was going to go with 10mm before I thought of asking people on renovate-world. IMy opinion is that alot of these types of screens - you can still see through them with their big gaps.
I'd put a photo up but I'm not on the home computer (at mums house). Just about to start laying the first board now....hmmm what gap....

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## Bleedin Thumb

The thing with screens is that if your close to them - as you are when you are on your deck you can see through them - this is good as you have a view (hopefully)  
If you are a distance away however you cant see through it (much) so you are screening other people from seeing you, but you can see them. 
If you don't want to see "them" or you have a cwappy view just leave a 3mm gap for timber expansion.

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## thirsty

> If you don't want to see "them" or you have a cwappy view just leave a 3mm gap for timber expansion.

  thanks for the tips.
Does anyone  :Yikes2: do this or will I be the first

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## Bloss

> thanks for the tips.
> Does anyone do this or will I be the first

  As has been said gaps are largely a personal choice really although no gaps can cause problems when the timber swell with rain etc so 3mm is about as small as you'd want to go unless you use the timber saturated and butted (which I have done with some success). As others have said depends what it is your are trying to prevent - being seen or seeing out. And that depends on factors including distance, lighting, lightness or darkness of the timber and so on. 
The smaller gaps reduce visibility both ways, but often 15-20mm is a good compromise up to a gap about half the width of the timber being used (so for eg: 35mm for 70mm decking), if you want to restrict visibility a bit, but retain some breezes. But plenty around at 3-4mm. 
Best is to look around at other walls/ fences and go and have a closer look at any you see that look to be what you want.  :2thumbsup:

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## paora

> thanks for the tips.
> Does anyone do this or will I be the first

  my screen fwiw ( not completed as yet )

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## Bloss

BTW - no gaps can be a problem on any external timber work as changing moisture levels in the timber even when oiled will cause expansion and contraction. If you were lucky and the timber was at its highest moisture level when you put the timber up with no gaps then perhaps you'd be OK. If not then when the timber tries to expand and is constrained then it will move in another direction - so will lift off the framing, twist or cup - or all! So 2-3mm at a minimum on outside use.  :2thumbsup:

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