# Forum Home Renovation Leadlight  Leadlight basics

## ozwinner

Welcome back viewer. 
Leadlight isnt all that hard to do, if I can do it,  :Doh:  so can you..  :Cool:  
Tools needed.
Glass, of course, it comes in a wide range of styles and colours.
Lead came, this holds the glass together.
A pattern, from a book or make a design of your own.
A *good* electric soldering iron, around 80 watts.
Silver Solder, usually in stick form, try to get 60/40 ish solder.
Horse shoe nails, available from your leadlight supplier
Glass cutter, I paid about $30 for mine about 10 years ago and it has an oil reservoir to aid cutting, the better the cutter the easier it will cut.
Glass pencil, no its not made of glass. :Biggrin: 
Glass cutters pliers.
Lead knife.
Soldering flux.
Putty.
Linseed oil.
Plaster of Paris.
Black oxide. 
A good glass cutter is one of the main things to look out for, it is an invaluable tool, so getting a good one is vital to good (easy) leadlight. 
You have to work out the size and design of you leadlight so as to suit the project in hand. 
Leadlight books are good because they have patterns and give you an idea as to glass colour too. 
Set you pattern onto a flat surface with drawing pins (chipboard is good) that can be nailed into. 
The pattern needs to be set into a frame the same size as your finished project will be, dont forget to allow for a border of lead came. 
I was told to stretch the lead came prior to use. 
Lay the lead came on the outside edge of the pattern, this will be the border of the leadlight.
Keep the came in place with the horse shoe nails, nail then in with the flat side to the came, the tapered side will wedge the came tight to the frame.
Horse nails are always nailed in so the flat side is against the work and the taper tightens it all up when driven in. 
Start your glass cutting in a corner of the project.
Lay your piece of glass over the pattern and draw the outline of the shape with the glass pencil. 
Cut the glass with the cutter.
You probably will have to practice cutting on some scrap first.
The cut should be one clean action, this will aid in a clean snap along the cut line.  
There is an electric shaper available that can be of use if you are cutting intricate shapes that are hard to archive with a glass cutter alone, it uses a diamond cutter bit and water. (I havent got one but can see the potential for one) 
Lay the cut glass on the pattern and slip it into the came over the same pattern as it was cut from, cut some more came and slip this over the newly cut glass making sure it is pushed all the way onto the glass. (a thin stick will aid in this). 
The pattern is repeated as before until it is all done. 
I dont have any pics of WIP as I havent done it for a while, but I will post some pics of my projects. 
Al  :Smilie:

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## Jim Carroll

A Kristal grinder is also an invaluable tool for grinding those bits that did not cut on the lines and also for cleaning up those rough/ sharp edges.

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## ozwinner

I was getting there Jim  :Biggrin:  
Al  :Smilie:

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## Jim Carroll

Sorry, Please proceed with the lesson. :2thumbsup:

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## ozwinner

When you have completed the leadlight its time to solder it up. 
Make sure your soldering iron gets hot enough before you start to solder.
Brush some soldering flux on all the joints, available from plumbing suppliers.
Place the iron against the came joints. 
The solder should flow when the came gets hot enough, not when you put the solder against the iron. 
When all the joints on one side have been soldered carefully turn the work over and solder the other side. 
When everything is soldered up its time to putty the work.
Mix some putty with some linseed oil to thin it slightly.
Get a stiff brush and liberally smear all the work with the thinned putty making sure you force it into all the joints. 
Once you have puttied one side, carefully turn the work over and do the same to the other side. 
Let the work sit for a day or two.
Dont worry about the putty smears, this will be take care of soon. 
When the putty has gone off a little, get a mixture of plaster of Paris and brickies black oxide, about 50/50.
The mixture is scrubbed vigorously onto the glass with a stiff nylon brush. 
This mixture will be forced into the joints making the putty joints go off, it will also polish the glass and make the came look aged as it blackens it. 
Easy. :2thumbsup:  
Al  :Smilie:

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## Lignum

These tutorials are best with photos to show us how you actualy do it. Got any?  :Smilie:

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## ozwinner

> These tutorials are best with photos to show us how you actualy do it. Got any?

  I havent, but I could fake some. 
Ill see what I can do. 
Al  :Smilie:

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## ozwinner

As promised here are some pics that will help in explaining it all. 
1&2.. Is a pic of a piece of melamine that the leadlight will be built on, its better on a separate board as it can be put away when not being worked on.
It also shows the pattern drawn on a piece of paper. 
3. Shows laying out the border came and a few tools. 
Al  :Smilie:

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## ozwinner

More.. 
1. Is a progress shot showing putting the glass into the came and using the horse shoe nails to keep all tight. 
2. More progress. 
3. Same again. 
It took me about an hour to get this far, keep the designs simple to start with. 
I drew blood on the first tiny green square too, something Ive never done with leadlight before.  :Cry:   
Al  :Biggrin:

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## joe greiner

Much clearer how the nails are used and re-positioned. Thanks, Al. 
Joe

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## ozwinner

Well here it is, a quick and bodgy leadlight just for illustration purposes. 
I spent another half hour this arvo to complete it (I had to go to our soon to be closed shop to get more clear glass  :Redface: ), so all up about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete.  
I still have to solder it and finish it off, but I have no solder flux as I havent done leadlight for over 15 years. 
One thing I remembered when doing this small A4 sized project is, all glass has a good and bad side, the good side is the smoother side and is far easier to cut. 
Also, all glass is not equal, the small green squares in the corner were an absolute pain to cut as the glass seemed hardened. 
Owwh yeah, dont even try to cut hardened glass as you will be wasting your time, unless of course you use an angle grinder with a diamond wheel.. :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic):  
The long thin piece of glass (3mm) in the pic is what you should be able to cut with a good glass cutter, so it pays to get a good one. 
Leadlight is real easy to do, I learnt it by just watching a leadlighter for an hour or so. 
Hey if I can do it so can you.  :2thumbsup:  
Al  :Smilie:

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## ozwinner

I think I need a new soldering iron!!! :Doh:  
Here is how not to solder the joints.  :Cry: 
The soldering iron is an 80 watter but hasnt been used for ages and it didnt get the joints hot enough for a good solder flow.
The solder just sits there all cold and lonely.  :Frown:  
I kept the soldering iron on the joint in the close up pic for over 5 minutes and the solder just wouldnt flow. 
I blamed the new brand of flux I bought (not the one in the picture), so I went and bought a different brand, all to no avail. 
Al  :Frown:

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## savage

Thanks Al, a very informative thread, I will copy it and save it in my file for future use as I have a few projects that will need leadlighting and this will significantly reduce the cost. A greenie to you for your time and effort in sharing this knowledge with us. :2thumbsup:

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## savage

It says that I must give others some greenies before I can give to you again, rest assured I will give you one when I can, again thanks for the information.

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## Skew ChiDAMN!!

You didn't have it stored next to your glue, Al?   :Innocent:  
But yeah, sounds like the soldering iron is due for retirement.

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## HiString

Al, 
Do you brush (with a small BRASS brush) the joins before fluxing and soldering? 
Also, the correct iron has a right angled tip with a regularly maintained slightly rounded surface and recommended flux for lead work is a specific wax block or a liquid animal fat flux.   :Cool:

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## ozwinner

> Al, 
> Do you brush (with a small BRASS brush) the joins before fluxing and soldering?  *No I dont, should I?* 
> Also, the correct iron has a right angled tip with a regularly maintained slightly rounded surface and recommended flux for lead work is a specific wax block or a liquid animal fat flux.  *I was told to use plumbers flux, maybe I have to chase an animal and get some fat*

  I havent got a soldering iron yet so more to come later. 
Al  :Smilie:

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## HiString

Yes mate, the surface of lead oxidises, and even with new cames one should clean the surface of all joins prior to fluxing and while I used the term "correct" regarding the right angled tip irons, I probably should have said "prefered"............when doing leadlight they are much easier and convenient to work with compared to a normal "chisel tip" iron.........same applies to solder, it is much easier to work with 3.0mm solder "wire". 
On any panel that is to be framed (cupboard doors, windows, etc), the border lead should be either 10.00mm or 12.4mm Flat, for hangings use 6.00mm U channel around the edge.   :Cool:

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## NCArcher

Thanks Al, always wanted to try lead lighting but didn't know where to start. Will have to find a local supplier. HiString??
The old Bakelite handeled Birko soldering iron brings back some memories.
Try removing the tip and giving everything a good clean and a light sand with some fine sandpaper then re-tin the tip.

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## HiString

QUOTE............."Will have to find a local supplier. HiString??" 
Once upon a time I could have helped but I'm too long removed from the craft..........apart from holding onto "special" stuff for myself, I sold off all stock I was holding for retail.  From memory there are sources listed in the Yellow Pages, specifically A Touch OF Glass and/or Creative Leadlights. 
I'm tied down bricklaying and doing other work around here for another month or so (attempting to stop water in the future :Wink:   ) but if I get time, I'll try and contribute more info on the basics of leadlighting.   :Cool:

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## ozwinner

> I'll try and contribute more info on the basics of leadlighting.

  Cool.  :Cool:  
Al  :2thumbsup:

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## savage

Greenie sent as promised Al, top thread. :2thumbsup:

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## ozwinner

Thank you.. 
I still want to post more on it yet, I just have to get the soldering iron and the brush and the solder and the time and the............... :Biggrin:  
Al  :Cool:

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## ptrott

[quote=ozwinner;525743]Welcome back viewer. 
Leadlight isnt all that hard to do, if I can do it,  :Doh:  so can you..  :Cool:  
Tools needed.
Glass, of course, it comes in a wide range of styles and colours.
Lead came, this holds the glass together.
A pattern, from a book or make a design of your own.
A *good* electric soldering iron, around 80 watts. _ Silver Solder,_ usually in stick form, try to get 60/40 ish solder.
Horse shoe nails, available from your leadlight supplier
Glass cutter, I paid about $30 for mine about 10 years ago and it has an oil reservoir to aid cutting, the better the cutter the easier it will cut.  
Great thread gents.
I have wanted to try it for ages, now I have somewhere to start from. 
Al, you need to edit your original post just in case someone tries to melt "silver solder" (used by plumbers with Oxy Propane) with a soldering iron :No: , and 60%silver in silver solder would be a trifle expensive :Biggrin:

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## HiString

For anyone wanting to teach themselves correct techniques, etc., the first thing you should do is obtain a copy of "Australian Leadlighting", it will probably cost around $35 BUT it is an excellent book for anyone starting out AND it is Australian.   :Cool:

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## savage

Well, I've decided to take the next step and have a go at leadlighting, I'm starting classes Tuesday night at a local craft shop who do ceramics mostly, but hold leadlight ones twice a week. I'll let you all know how it goes, a special thanks to Al for giving me the push I needed by posting this thread. 
I will post my work as it progresses, I have several ideas that I hope to start selling at the local markets every couple of months. :2thumbsup:

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## ozwinner

Good for you, I cant wait to see some of your projects. 
Al  :Cool:

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## goodwoody

Hello groovers.  I currently do stained glass in Japan with a group of old biddies on Sat mornings.  I use the copper foil method and tin the copper foil after it has been applied to the edge and then tack the pieces together until I'm finished and them completely solder everything together with a nice little dome effect.   Tiffany style.    This channel method is new to me.  I will load some pics when i have the chance.   damien.

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## HiString

"Leaded glass", ie: using lead channel is the traditional method that goes back "forever".  The "copper foil" method was allegedly pioneered by Tiffanys to allow them to produce the exquisitely intricate designs created by their artists. 
The main thing when using foil is to use a flux that is either "non corrosive" or that is easily washed off when the project is finished as the last thing you need is flux residue left behind slowly eating away at the copper.   :Cool:

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## bugsy

I must say, since this topic has shown up in the renovator's section, i have gone to our local library and got a copy of  Australian Leadlighting.
I am going to have a go at this.
Now i have to get some gear together.
anyone have some good sites to go to?

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## emptybucketman

Good thread guys 
But, how do I go about repairing a leadlight window where one of the glass segments is cracked?

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## savage

> Good thread guys 
> But, how do I go about repairing a leadlight window where one of the glass segments is cracked?

  G'Day,
Firstly a pic would help with how to approach this, if this is not able to be done I would suggest a careful dismantling from the closest side then a clean-up where the broken section belongs. After this is done cut a piece of glass sourced from several art glass suppliers fit the new section clean and solder the lead sections and replace any that where damaged in the dismantling process, re-polish, job done. 
Any problems just give us a yell!....

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## HiString

I typed out a longish reply prior to Savage's post but due to continual bloody problems with staying logged in on the reno pages I lost it during the submit process.....geezus, I can't even add a "MAD" smilie here.......trying again so let's see what happens  :Mad: ......hrmph, smilies are now working.  OK......the last thing I said before was that some detailed pics showing the overall panel and the broken glass and it's surrounding lead would be useful.  There are a couple of methods for doing "piece" repairs but much depends on 1)  the age of the panel,  2)  the condition of the panel and specifically the lead (lead oxidises and putty deteriorates with time) and 3)  the shape of the broken section.  Determining the best approach would normally require a carefull inspection, hence the request for pics as giving specific advice without seeing the job is risky at best.   :Cool:

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## emptybucketman

Attached is a poor picture of the window.  The broken glass is the second segment from the bottom right-hand corner of the top sash....very hard to make out...  It is a plain piece of glass and is the largest segment. 
I'll attempt to get some better pics.

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## HiString

OK, the style of the design gives me enough idea of it's age to suspect the lead will have a fair degree of oxidisation which makes it resistant to soldering, not impossible but far more difficult to get a good join compared to new(ish) lead.  The other "problem" is that the panel is puttied into a timber sash and to remove and refit/re-putty it in neatly is not something I'd recommend to a "beginner". 
An experienced glazier/stained glass craftsman should be able to remove and replace the existing glass without the need to remove the panel or perform unnecessary "surgery" on the lead.............BUT again, this would be dependant on a close inspection of the panel and assuming the lead and existing solder joints are not overly deteriorated and/or weakening.   :Cool:

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## emptybucketman

Thanks HiString,  I have a leadlight shop up the road that also conducts classes.  I'll take a few more shots and get their opinion.

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## dangermouse1598

I'm definately going to have to give this a try.  I recently spent a considerable amount of time using leadlight overlay to tart up 6 windows in my bathroom and they look really good.  I really must have a go at doing the "real" thing now... I am inspired.   :Smilie:

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## sergeantpepper

Thanks ozwinner. 
Ok this really interests me as I've been looking (not seriously) for somebody to
knock up a couple of leadlights for me and didn't realise I could possibly do this
myself. 
Found somewhere to get my supplies already....thanks Google.

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## autogenous

Dont forget the big fat marker pen for making patterns  :Smilie:

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## GraGra

This is my first post so please bear with me. 
I have recently joined Renovate Forum and really enjoy browsing the posts. 
I have been dabbling in lead lighting for many years now and after reading the lead light thread would like to share this project with forum members. 
I made this ceiling diffuser for our dining room a few years back. 
It is a combination of glass  textures and colours adapted from a design I saw in an American magazine and demonstrates what can be achieved with a little imagination. 
I selected various textured clear and colored glass and I think the overall effect turned out very good. 
Notice the steel reinforcing bars for support in the pic of the back of the panel.
These were necessary as it was used as a ceilng diffuser.  *Please note:
To fully comply with some local building regs  may require  ceiling diffusers to be supported by laminated glass panels*  
 In this instance I decided to use the reinforcing bars which although not fully compliant did the job quite well. :Wink:  
Please check with local authorities re their requirements before installing something like this.
I also used reinforced lead cames to provide even more lateral strength. 
Soldering is quite easy provided you use a good flux and the work and your iron is clean.
A dip pot for your iron and a light wire brushing to the lead just before applying the flux is all you need. 
BTW the best flux to use is tallow, as it is not corrosive and easily removed with the final clean up.
Also the white blemishes are from recent rain after I removed the panel for some recent renovations I left it  outside and forgot during the rain  :Mad: . 
regards
G

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## MorrisManor

Hi all, 
Good discussion, as far as the soldering iron, I bought an old 100 watt monster and bent the tip at 45 degrees then filed the end flat, means your arm/elbow, can rest on the table. 
But what I used to do was polish the window with an old floor polisher, that died so can I just do it by hand with a plastic scrubbing brush?
What do you use? 
Cheerio,
Chris

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## HiString

The most popular (and practical) irons were made by Matson and they had a 90deg bent copper "tip" with the end flat as you described. From memory, they made two sizes for leadlighting, a 40 watt with a 5 or 6mm diameter tip which was good for the novices as they couldn't do too much damage, and the 100 watt with a 10mm tip. 
When you say "polish" I presume you are refering to the final clean up after puttying, etc. Once you've removed excess putty, (the easy way is to run a pointy kebab stick around the lead), sprinkly whiting powder over the panel and scrub the hell out of it with a scrubbing brush......a job for the outdoors  :Biggrin: . done properly, this will burnish the lead to a dark, shiny finish. You can (or could) get a lead polish which will give a darker shinier finish......apply this with a cloth pad and then buff off with a shoe brush.   :Cool:

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## MorrisManor

Thanks HiString,
Basically when I learnt the teacher used an old floor polisher to do the final clean-up, this cleaned and burnished the lead and removed most excess putty as well.
I went looking for glass scraps that we had collected and find my glass cutter and there I found my old polisher and it works fine! 
As we are building a new home council decided we must have fire proof glass blocks (not a window) on our boundary wall (you should have seen the old wall/windows we demolished!).
But we wanted leadlight for a bit of interest/colour... 
So we ended up making a sandwich of external glass blocks, leadlight and internal glass blocks. we have 2 windows, each 10 blocks long by one block high (190mm by 2000mm or so).
I'll load up some pictures later FYI, but one concern is how/if we can stop dust/moisture/mold/critters getting in the sandwich? 
Cheerio!

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## leadlighter

Hi to all, 
I recently saw on these forums, that a lot of people doing renovations to houses and furniture and the like, are asking for information on certain aspects of how to make a leadlight. Some have been asking about restoring a leadlight to making a new leadlight. 
I have posted 8 hubs on leadlighting and if you Google Leadlighting Tutorials, it will take you there where you will find all the info you are lookig for. 
I am here to help in any way I can regarding these questions. I am also a leadlight teacher and have been teaching for many years and I am happy to answer any questions you may have. My email, jjjackson44@bigpond.com 
Sincerely,
John Jackson

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