# Forum Home Renovation Tools & Products  Which circular saw do you recommend / not recommend?

## ErrolFlynn

Ive never owned a circular saw.  No idea what to expect.  Ive got a deck to build and after that I have no idea how much use it will get.  Anyway, I went to Bunnings on the weekend and this is what they have for sale.  
Ozito 185mm $48
Ryobi 185mm 1400 W $89
Ryobi 185mm 1200 W $65
Bosch 184mm 1500 W $79
Ozito 235mm 2000 W $139
Makita 185mm 1050 W $109 reduced to $99
AEG 190mm 1500 W $119
Makita 185 1650 W $188
Ryobi 235mm 2000 W $199 
I read in a review forum that someone bought an Ozito and had to return because it just wasnt any good. (Ive got an Ozito rotary hammer drill and its great.)  I bought a Makita angle grinder about 25 years ago and it hasnt let me down, but one reviewer thought the Makita circular saw was not up to much. 
Its not going to be a regular work tool for me, but I dont want rubbish.  If anyone has any experience of..., steer clear of...  or this is good value...  etc.  Id like to hear your thoughts.

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## OBBob

I'd get a Makita. You can make it even better by getting and aftermarket blade... But It'd probably cost half again.

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## koshari

Imo cheap brands like ozito are more palatable with less precise mains powered items like rotary hammers and small angle grinders. 
With items such as circ saws look at the adjustment parts and the more precise ones will be better machined alloy rather than stamped sheet steel. These are the ones you will get more accurate cuts from. Also the more powerfull ones will kick harder so be carefull handling them.

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## OBBob

185mm is probably large enough for everyday projects too.

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## justonething

I think you have to decide on what size saw you want first. For example, if you are working on a ladder, you don't really want to be too heavy. Or is it the only circular saw you will own.... . For example, you might want to have a track saw instead that would give you a few more options about you cutting.

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## Marc

> I’ve never owned a circular saw.  No idea what to expect.  I’ve got a deck to build and after that I have no idea how much use it will get.  Anyway, I went to Bunnings on the weekend and this is what they have for sale. etc 
> I read in a review forum that someone bought an Ozito and had to return because it just wasn’t any good. (I’ve got an Ozito rotary hammer drill and it’s great.)  I bought a Makita angle grinder about 25 years ago and it hasn’t let me down, but one reviewer thought the Makita circular saw was not up to much.

  If you are going to build a deck, you have to cut deck board, ( easy and small) and you have to cut bearers and joist, ( a bit more heavy) Depending on the size of your deck, height off the ground and some other obvious factors, the size of your bearers and joist can be such that you need a 235 to cut them comfortably. If you want to cut 90x90x post the same applies.
So in reality you need two. One big one small. 
However ... and here you see there is no simple answer, if you want to do a good job, your deck boards will need to be cut dead right at 90 so that you don't get unsightly joints ... unless your deck is small and will have no joints(?) so in case you do have joints you also need a drop saw. 
So ... you need a drop saw and a circular saw. You can cut almost everything for a deck with a drop saw, (the bigger the better) but will also need a decent size circular saw to cut the ends of the boards at the edge so that they are all nice in line. 
Tools are a matter of money. More money, better tool, it is that simple and better tools are not sold at bunnings.  
I would, if I were you and you don't have to cut bigger than 6", buy a second hand Makita drop saw, the one that has a cast base and weighs a ton and costs a song on ebay. An a hitachi 180 circular saw at Sydney Tools or similar tool joint. If you must cut bigger size timber, buy a second hand Makita sliding saw. I bought dozen upon dozen of second hand tools, mostly from cash convertor, taken them stright to a tool repairer for service and have gone wrong only a few times. 
You did not say if you have a cordless impact driver for the screws, because you could if you have a decent one, buy a skin circular saw and use your battery in case you have to climb a ladder and do some cuts up high... ... anyway food for thoughts, good luck and tell us how you go with your deck.

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## phild01

Yep, you do need the drop saw.  If you appreciate tools then buy new or as Marc has suggested.
If this is the only thing you ever do then a crappy cheap drop-saw  can get you by.

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## Marc

Just an example this post on ebay, $100 and a saw that (if in near decent condition) will work for decades and outlive any cheap new bunnings stuff  Http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Makita-dr...item462ad97ded

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## ErrolFlynn

> a hitachi 180 circular saw at Sydney Tools

  This seems https://sydneytools.com.au/hitachi-c...2-circular-saw a pretty fair price too.

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## johnc

A good light saw, look at cutting depth and make sure it is what you want but it is perfect for trimming decks and boards.

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## phild01

> This seems https://sydneytools.com.au/hitachi-c...2-circular-saw a pretty fair price too.

  Quite like my very old Hitachi which I have no love for.

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## Pitto

the makita 185 in the "macpak" would be my choice. 
i have the 185 i bought back in 97 and its still going strong. I dont use it that much these days due to my makita tracksaw, and the makita 18v cordless circ saw, but i cant part with it, too much history, and it has tought me some tough lessons in the past  :Redface: P

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## Marc

Yes, old Makita are good. Don't forget though that the guy want's to buy a new saw and the new Makita are not what they used to be.

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## METRIX

Of the ones you listed for DIY, I would choose the Green Bosch First, and put a Diablo blade on it and it will cut like butter ( I have used that combo and it works a treat), although the standard blade is fine, but a good quality blade make all the difference. 
I would then look at the AEG, then either Makita, and finally Ryobi. 
I would not even consider the ozito, it's not worth it nowadays as a good reliable saw such as the Bosch green is $30 more, and they are not a pleaseur to use, nor are they either accurate or reliable. 
If you were looking at more trade use you would start with the Makita 5007MGK, this is pretty much the defacto standard saw on most sites for a 184mm size., I have this saw and it's a nice unit, plenty of power.

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## Ourbuild

> Ive never owned a circular saw.  No idea what to expect.  Ive got a deck to build and after that I have no idea how much use it will get.  Anyway, I went to Bunnings on the weekend and this is what they have for sale.  
> Ozito 185mm $48
> Ryobi 185mm 1400 W $89
> Ryobi 185mm 1200 W $65
> Bosch 184mm 1500 W $79
> Ozito 235mm 2000 W $139
> Makita 185mm 1050 W $109 reduced to $99
> AEG 190mm 1500 W $119
> Makita 185 1650 W $188
> ...

  Hey ErrolFlynn 
Im a pretty bias Makita guy, so in my opinion you cant beat the new duel 18V Makita DHS 710 Cordless, its a bit on the pricy side but it's just a powerful as the mains powered saw. I used it for some pretty heavy duty faming work on my place and it didnt miss a beat. 
I put a video review online iif your interested - Tool Review - Makita DHS 710 Duel18V / 36V Cordless Power Saw - YouTube 
Im in the process of upgrading all my gear and looking to replace each model with cordless, so you might see me post a few more reviews as I get them. 
Happy tool hunting. 
Regards James.

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## METRIX

> Im a pretty bias Makita guy, 
> Im in the process of upgrading all my gear and looking to replace each model with cordless.

  Im not sure if the OP would be interested in a $700 cordless saw, I think he was looking at entry level saws for DIY around $100 mark.

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## ErrolFlynn

> Im not sure if the OP would be interested in a $700 cordless saw, I think he was looking at entry level saws for DIY around $100 mark.

  Spot on - 240v.  In fact, I thought that comment re Sydney Tools looked like an okay deal.  I'm not in Sydney, but I managed to work an okay deal from a local tool shop for a Hitachi.  Picking it up on Thursday.

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## Ourbuild

> Spot on - 240v.  In fact, I thought that comment re Sydney Tools looked like an okay deal.  I'm not in Sydney, but I managed to work an okay deal from a local tool shop for a Hitachi.  Picking it up on Thursday.

  Great to hear mate, the Hitachi will do the trick. 
What are you planing to tackle with it?

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## Pitto

> Hey ErrolFlynn 
> Im a pretty bias Makita guy, so in my opinion you cant beat the new duel 18V Makita DHS 710 Cordless, its a bit on the pricy side but it's just a powerful as the mains powered saw. I used it for some pretty heavy duty faming work on my place and it didnt miss a beat. 
> I put a video review online iif your interested - Tool Review - Makita DHS 710 Duel18V / 36V Cordless Power Saw - YouTube 
> Im in the process of upgrading all my gear and looking to replace each model with cordless, so you might see me post a few more reviews as I get them. 
> Happy tool hunting. 
> Regards James.

  
Makita need to make a 36v Cordless Plunge saw now to keep up with Festools new cordless model  :2thumbsup:

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## Gaza

> Makita need to make a 36v Cordless Plunge saw now to keep up with Festools new cordless model

  Just got festool cordless, with heap of batteries 
Going to swap to festool skins from makita except for few tools   
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## Ourbuild

> Just got festool cordless, with heap of batteries 
> Going to swap to festool skins from makita except for few tools   
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  Festool is the BMW of the tool market, good gear but has the price to match.  
Once I get my workshop built I will be investing in some Festool gear that can have a good home, for now I think it will get trashed on site....

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## Gaza

This is my fourth or fifth festool saw I have brought we use them on site and in factory we have cut a lot of timber over the years   
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## Ourbuild

> This is my fourth or fifth festool saw I have brought we use them on site and in factory we have cut a lot of timber over the years   
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  Nice, do you guys do shopfitting or building?

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## Gaza

> Nice, do you guys do shopfitting or building?

  Solid timber joinery incld site install and commercial fit out   
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## ErrolFlynn

> Great to hear mate, the Hitachi will do the trick. 
> What are you planing to tackle with it?

  I have a deck on the house, but I want to extend it.  I have a 'slide mitre saw' which is good for cutting the boards, but I doubt it big enough to handle the joists.  So, this will be my first project with it.  It will be my first experience with a circular saw.  So, it will be a novel expereince.

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## Ourbuild

> I have a deck on the house, but I want to extend it.  I have a 'slide mitre saw' which is good for cutting the boards, but I doubt it big enough to handle the joists.  So, this will be my first project with it.  It will be my first experience with a circular saw.  So, it will be a novel expereince.

  Awesome mate, good luck with it!

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## David.Elliott

My father in law (the builder) bought me one of these years ago...  Craftright Protractor And Saw Guide I/N 5660310 | Bunnings Warehouse 
And... I thought, yeah sure, how did he get suckered into buying that, he's a builder...
Then... I started the cottage refurb and now use it every cut, even on the square ones. 
Somehow every circular saw I have ever had runs off line when the guard hits the timber, even my big one, this stops that by giving you something to run to...
And when you need to transfer angles from somewhere to the timber to cut it's a blinder. 
I reckon for us weekend warriors it should be part of our circular saw kit...

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## ringtail

I use my protractor all the time. Although the 90 degree mark is out by half a degree :Doh:   I just set mine up with a big square and it's all good.

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## Pitto

> Just got festool cordless, with heap of batteries 
> Going to swap to festool skins from makita except for few tools   
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  Yep, i have 8 systainers that i am swapping all my LXT tools over into,and just picked up a CT33 extractor second hand, and already have the of1400 router. 
I too want to start swapping out my LXT gear over to Festool, but there is still a few tools missing from their range before i do that. They need a cordless grinder, a decent 18v impact driver, a cordless planer to name a few. 
I already have the Makita tracksaw, so i am commited to that for a few years yet. I would like to upgrade, but the makita tracksaw works so good. The little tab that stops the saw from tipping over when doing 45° cuts is great. 
It took me over 18 months to "get it" with the router, the handle on it is a right PITA to get used to. But Dust extraction is second to none. Thats why i bought it. 
Festool may be expensive, overcharge for consumables, but they are no different to others like Hilti, Snap-On, Toyota, Woodpeckers, and the like. Its an investment into a "system" as they put it. Not really designed for DIY, more like the single one man band looking to save money thru efficiencies buy using fast accurate tools that pack away into their own storage system.

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## Ourbuild

> My father in law (the builder) bought me one of these years ago...  Craftright Protractor And Saw Guide I/N 5660310 | Bunnings Warehouse 
> And... I thought, yeah sure, how did he get suckered into buying that, he's a builder...
> Then... I started the cottage refurb and now use it every cut, even on the square ones. 
> Somehow every circular saw I have ever had runs off line when the guard hits the timber, even my big one, this stops that by giving you something to run to...
> And when you need to transfer angles from somewhere to the timber to cut it's a blinder. 
> I reckon for us weekend warriors it should be part of our circular saw kit...

  Your spot on David 
I use a square all the time for my free hand cuts as well, in fact I even made a video about it - http://youtu.be/9C3StC_wsN0  .... Haha 
There are a few other good videos online as well that show the bevel being used for many various cuts.

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## Ourbuild

> Yep, i have 8 systainers that i am swapping all my LXT tools over into,and just picked up a CT33 extractor second hand, and already have the of1400 router. 
> I too want to start swapping out my LXT gear over to Festool, but there is still a few tools missing from their range before i do that. They need a cordless grinder, a decent 18v impact driver, a cordless planer to name a few. 
> I already have the Makita tracksaw, so i am commited to that for a few years yet. I would like to upgrade, but the makita tracksaw works so good. The little tab that stops the saw from tipping over when doing 45° cuts is great. 
> It took me over 18 months to "get it" with the router, the handle on it is a right PITA to get used to. But Dust extraction is second to none. Thats why i bought it. 
> Festool may be expensive, overcharge for consumables, but they are no different to others like Hilti, Snap-On, Toyota, Woodpeckers, and the like. Its an investment into a "system" as they put it. Not really designed for DIY, more like the single one man band looking to save money thru efficiencies buy using fast accurate tools that pack away into their own storage system.

  Yeah the storage system is a big plus as well.

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## Gaza

> Festool may be expensive, overcharge for consumables, but they are no different to others like Hilti, Snap-On, Toyota, Woodpeckers, and the like. Its an investment into a "system" as they put it. Not really designed for DIY, more like the single one man band looking to save money thru efficiencies buy using fast accurate tools that pack away into their own storage system.

  I luv there routers got all 4 in the range from the 700 up to the 2200 but we still ute makita trimmers and a bug dewalt all the time too. 
We also have all hilti sds drills / concrete nail gun / track fast gun  plus bosch 36v cordless sds  
Lol also got couple Toyotas but we have a full braco spanner / socket set   
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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## JamesKeen

I got one of these;  Bosch PKS 1500 for $79 and this blade. 
Honestly the cuts look pretty close to DAR and I could rip less than 5mm of material without it breaking off. Isn't very loud either and there is no kick at all.

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## METRIX

> I got one of these;  Bosch PKS 1500 for $79 and this blade. 
> Honestly the cuts look pretty close to DAR and I could rip less than 5mm of material without it breaking off. Isn't very loud either and there is no kick at all.

  IMO I think that's one of the best DIY saw's you can buy, they are so cheap, there is no need to buy ozito etc, although it is a good little saw it's not in the league of festool or the tracksaws

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## OBBob

> ... look at the adjustment parts and the more precise ones will be better machined alloy rather than stamped sheet steel. These are the ones you will get more accurate cuts from.

  On the weekend one of the jobs was to make a custom cupboard carcase to fit a particular space. The Makita battery saw amazed me again cutting cleanly and even trimming 2mm off the edge where required just using the rip-fence. Cheap saws I've had in the past wouldn't have done this with such ease and I'm sure it comes down to more accurate alignments and less flexibility through the machined alloy base etc.  
... and I still love no cords wherever feasible!  :Smilie:

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## phild01

> On the weekend one of the jobs was to make a custom cupboard carcase to fit a particular space. The Makita battery saw amazed me again cutting cleanly and even trimming 2mm off the edge where required just using the rip-fence. Cheap saws I've had in the past wouldn't have done this with such ease and I'm sure it comes down to more accurate alignments and less flexibility through the machined alloy base etc.  
> ... and I still love no cords wherever feasible!

  Just being doing carcasses yesterday myself adjusting a few pieces, but I wouldn't use a saw for the melamine board, instead using a router for nice sharp edges.

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## OBBob

Yeah, where I had to cut wasn't visible ... I was just a bit surprised at how well it actually did it. I do also recall a few expletives and comments about how I never wanted to see another carcase.  :Smilie:

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## phild01

> Yeah, where I had to cut wasn't visible ... I was just a bit surprised at how well it actually did it. I do also recall a few expletives and comments about how I never wanted to see another carcase.

  They tend to take over a space, don't they - if only you knew the small area I have to build them in. Pantry done and dusted this morning :Smilie:

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## fredgassit

Metrix;  I'm looking for a saw to self-build a hardiplank house.  Would the Bosch mentioned above last the distance? 
Thanks!

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## OBBob

Going off topic ... but are you building all your own carcases Phil? Are you cutting and then routing the visible edges?  
I only have a few to do to alter what's already existing (thankfully).

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## phild01

> Going off topic ... but are you building all your own carcases Phil? Are you cutting and then routing the visible edges?  
> I only have a few to do to alter what's already existing (thankfully).

  I use a cut to size service.  I learn't with my very first attempt at doing a kitchen how painful it is preparing your own sheet material plus the edging.  At the moment I caught myself off-guard and changed my mind about a laminate bench to a stone bench.  I have installed under bench runners but with the stone decided full width tops are needed.  So now trying to get larger pieces for this but the lead times are killing me.  Tomorrow I'm off to MPW and will have to glue my own edging on which I find I can do as well or better than the machine finished jobs, but is a pain.  The edges I need to do I just rout cut without even sawing any more.  Had to do some for the L shaped shelves...just slow going. 
Sorry fredgassit, I would focus on a good sliding compound first as the portable saw won't get a lot of use if you have this.

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## fredgassit

Thanks phild01. 
I have an old Hitachi 8"sliding compound (made in Japan and goes like new). Would that be good enough?

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## METRIX

> Metrix;  I'm looking for a saw to self-build a hardiplank house.  Would the Bosch mentioned above last the distance? 
> Thanks!

  
Yes, there's no reason why it would not, it all depends on what method of cladding you are doing, this determines if you need to use the saw to do your cuts. 
Using hardiplank, you will be using plastic joiners for any vertical joins, so you don't require the saw to cut these joins, instead you use a tungsten scoring knife and snap the hardiplank at the score, the cut will be clean but not perfect, but this is fine as the plastic strip will cover this join. 
If you are using plastic insert internal and external corner joins, again you don't require these to be cut with a saw, you score and snap these as well. 
If you are using timber internal and external joins in conjunction with colorbond corner flashings this is where you would require to have a nice cut because the cut will butt into the timber corner. and will be seen. 
For these you would use the saw in conjunction with a square to be used as a guide, and you would use a blade designed for cutting the hardiplank (Hardie Blade), these have minimal teeth so they tend to cut bigger chips rather than create a dust storm (which should be avoided at all costs) 
An alternate to the circular saw would be a slide compound saw, but as the hardie blade only comes in 7 1/4 inch, this would limit you to buying the Makita 190mm slide saw, as nobody else makes a saw that takes the small blades, and at $600+ for that saw, I assume you don't want to spend that much.

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## phild01

> Thanks phild01. 
> I have an old Hitachi 8"sliding compound (made in Japan and goes like new). Would that be good enough?

  When you posed the question I felt you meant general framing rather than cutting hardiplank.  I think your saw might be the same as mine like this one: 
 It's a good enough saw and I find it is accurate but not for cutting cement sheet.  It is a bit limited for 90m thick cuts but I always get by with some other saw.
I would recommend you check out weathertex boards before committing to hardiplank.

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## fredgassit

Yep, that's the one I have. Looks like new, goes like new. 
I must admit, I've seen Weathertex mentioned before but I know nothing about it. Is it as good (long-lasting, particularly its paint-holding ability) as Hardiplank?

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## METRIX

There both good products, one is timber based and one is fibre cement based.

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## fredgassit

Thank you Metrix and Phild01.

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## phild01

It is a very good cladding product but the bottom board cannot be too close to ground level.  For looks and ease of use I choose Weathertex.  Painting is a non-issue.

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## fredgassit

Yes, painting is the main reason I looked at Hardiplank.  In fact, some of the US building forums claim that (if shielded from the sun and rain by a verandah), there should be no need to re-paint for 15-20 years. 
Would Weathertex have a similar "re-painting" lifespan, considering it's a wood-based product and thus potentially capable of greater expansion and contraction (i.e. more stress on the paint)? 
Also, I wonder if fire-insurance costs would be higher than the Hardiplank?

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## METRIX

Yes, weathertex has a 15 year average repainting lifespan, but this does depend on the quality of paint and preperation prior to painting.  Timber Weatherboards, Wall Panels & Cladding | Weathertex 
Fire insurance should not be a problem, if your in a fire zone, Weathertex can only achieve up to a BAL 19 level, Hardiplank can achieve a BAL 29 rating without any additional requirements.
Hardiplank can also achieve a BAL 40 and BAL FZ rating in certain circumstances, Hardiplank will always achieve a better fire rating than a wood based product such as weathertex.

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## fredgassit

Thank you Metrix.

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## fredgassit

By the way, since this thread is on saws, I noticed the other day that Aldi was selling a 10" sliding compound saw. In your opinion, is it worth a punt (3-year guarantee) or is it a waste of space? 
Thanks again.

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## OBBob

Probably depends how much it is and what you want to do with it.

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## METRIX

> By the way, since this thread is on saws, I noticed the other day that Aldi was selling a 10" sliding compound saw. In your opinion, is it worth a punt (3-year guarantee) or is it a waste of space? 
> Thanks again.

  It has been said on here before that Aldi only sells good quality tools and merchandise because they are a German origin company, and they put the products they sell through a rigorous QA process. 
Currently Aldi have a few recalls of their "good quality" goods which are having some slight problems such as. 
Kuchef Professional Blender which the metal blades fall apart leaving broken blades in your shake causing choking hazard or blade ingestion - mmm love that sharp stainless steel https://www.aldi.com.au/fileadmin/fm...all_Notice.pdf 
Kuchef thermo cooker which overloads then restarts at a high speed and ejecting the hot food with risk of burns https://www.aldi.com.au/fileadmin/fm...4_06_16_1_.pdf 
The Jack & Jill wooden bus with figurines under the AS/NZS ISO 8124.1 size requirements causing potential choking hazards https://www.aldi.com.au/fileadmin/fm...8_28_FINAL.PDF 
Baby play centre which has a wire with very small beads attached, when the wire breaks the beads become a choking hazard https://www.aldi.com.au/fileadmin/fm...with_pi....pdf 
The electric blanket which the cord fatigues, causing fires and or electric shock https://www.aldi.com.au/fileadmin/fm...NAL_NSWOFT.pdf 
Finally for this week's Aldi recalls the double walled espresso glasses which shatter the inner wall, causing lacerations https://www.aldi.com.au/fileadmin/fm..._Notice_A4.pdf 
Unfortunately most of the non grocery items they sell are the same rubbish with the same manufacturing faults as exhibited by most other cheap goods, such as the almost daily electrical product recalls we see now for fire or electric shock hazards. 
Like most things these days, you get what you pay for, Aldi is no different, they sell the same faulty crap that you find at any dodgy outlet, my advice, spend your money on a brand name saw.

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## phild01

Yep, hit and miss, and I have had issues with some of the stuff I have got there, like a smoke alarm's battery that quickly drains warning me stuck on after about 4 months twice at something like 4 in the morning. 
A lot of the cheap drop type saws really have lousy lightweight base-plates but otherwise do the job quite well, but if your budget can go further, let it take you there, because you will end up appreciating it the more you use it.

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## fredgassit

Point taken.  Though I've found their chisels to be an honorable exception.

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## OBBob

> Point taken.  Though I've found their chisels to be an honorable exception.

  
... and you're not the only one.  
" In this video Paul Sellers shows how you can prepare these cheap Aldi chisels, for fine woodworking, using simple and accessible techniques."    www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI

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## ringtail

Chainsaw sharpener works great, 100% sheepskin underlay was a steal and is awesome, electrician screw drivers are excellent and proven to be as good as the pricey ones for insulation protection and of course who doesn't love the bags of cable ties. Oh, there pincer pliers cut 3.2 mm ss cable too. Not as well as dedicated parrot beak pliers but my $80 side cutters wont even look at ss cable. Their spanner set is a dead set rip off ( or rebadged) of beta or stahwille. Of course, there is boatloads of crap on the tables too.

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## Moondog55

Well the last couple of weeks tell me I am well overdue to replace my circular saws
 I need a new small one as I like the way I can still use the 160mm Makita over my head if need be but it is $199- and the cheaper of the 184s is still $99- no matter where it is sold it seems but I was playing with the bigger Makita and likes the balance even if it was heavy  Makita - Circular Saw 160mm 950W - 5606B | Total Tools  Makita - Circular Saw 185mm 1050W - 5740NBSP | Total Tools  Makita - Circular Saw 185mm 1800W - 5007MGK | Total Tools 
The last is at Bunnings at the moment for $188- and I'm tempted
But I know I need at least one good circular saw while saving for the biggest drop saw we can afford

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## Micky013

Ive got the all of the above. I would go the last one (which i got from bunnies too) soo much more guts and well worth the $$

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## Uncle Bob

I definitely can't recommend this one.

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## snowyskiesau

If I have to buy another saw it will be a a Makita. I have a 25 year old model  5900B that, I thought, has had a hard life. 
I took it into the local dealer (A1 Tools in Hobart) to make sure I got the correct bearings, brushes etc. Guy serving me said he's never had to replace bearings in that model but the gears are more likely to need replacement. He fired it up and said 'Nope, they're fine'. As I asked for brushes as well, he removed one and pronounced it fit for another 25 years.  No sale and no charge either.
Regreased the gears and fitted a new blade and it's as good as new.
I also have a 7" B&D which is nice and light and gets used more than the Makita which tends to live in the Triton.

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## Moondog55

Interested as I have the big 235mm Makita myself but it really is too big for most jobs

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## jimfish

The bottom one is a good saw , powerful , sturdy base plate, highly recommend it .
We used to use the 9 1/4 " makita when we were pitching all our rooves but I don't even have one anymore, too heavy to use all day and the 7 1/4 does all I need these days.

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## OBBob

Makita... even works when frozen.

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## Marc

About Aldi tools, you must be a bit skeptical of cheap tools even at Aldi. I was foolish enough to buy a couple or airtools, one die grinder and one little disk grinder. Returned both, they did not meet the quality of toys.

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## phild01

> Makita... even works when frozen.

  Looks like real ice, did you feel a need to put it in the freezer, maybe you thought it was the beer!

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## Moondog55

I dithered about spending the extra money but in the end I got the better Makita ( the 5007NK) as it simply felt better in my hand than the AEG or the Bosch.
The supplied blade isn't very good tho is it? So a set of decent blades needs to be next on the shopping list plus that Craftright saw guide.
The Diabolo blades?
Are they that much better than the 
Makita blue?

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## OBBob

> Looks like real ice, did you feel a need to put it in the freezer, maybe you thought it was the beer!

  I really could have done with a beer yesterday. It was actually acrylic splashback but does look remarkably like I left the saw in the chest freezer.  :Biggrin:

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## Ourbuild

> I really could have done with a beer yesterday. It was actually acrylic splashback but does look remarkably like I left the saw in the chest freezer.

  Is that the new 165mm brushless you got there OBBob? Playing around with one myself and have actually got to cut an acrylic splashback next week, any tips? I.e do you need to score the sheet before cutting to prevent chipping?

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## Moondog55

I want that saw in 240V corded to match the one I just purchased

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## OBBob

Hi Ourbuild ... it's actually the pre-brushless version, which I suspect is very similar except for the motor.  I have, however,  found it to be great. It has opened my eyes to the difference quality features such as a cast base plate (rather than pressed) make to performance.  
As for the acrylic ... aweful stuff to work with but otherwise gives a nice result. I'd much rather be covered in sawdust than plastic schrapnel. A couple of tips ... 
- for best result you really want a fine tooth blade ... 60 teeth, rather than the standard one (although I got away with it by concealing the cut edges, which really weren't too bad at all ... you can also finish with a plane)
- you need to consider how to support the sheets if you're cutting on site because they are very flexible
- I think the key to a nice cut is a good blade and really supporting and clamping the sheet well so it can't vibrate at the edge
- ideally you want to use a sacrificial board under the sheet and cut through both ... again, I just put the cut 1mm out from the edge of my bench and it worked fine. 
- doing holes with blunt drills seem to work better. Otherwise you really need to increase diameter very gradually
- jig saw with fine blade works well for cuttouts
- hole saws work fine ... just take it very slowly
- planing works very well for trimming
- sanding works well for polishing up visible edges 
- oh and the protective plastic on each side can melt and spatter you in hot molten plastic, which is a joy 
My install went well untill I screwed up on the last piece (of six) ... an expensive mistake.  
What I did wrong was that I had a complicated piece that was cut to size and surrounded almost entirely by walls and cabinets. It also had three cuttouts for taps and gpos and a small cuttout on the top side to go around another fitting. The little cuttout on the edge was the issue because (even though it was smoth and round) it created a pressure point and when I pulled the piece out after checking it for about the fith time it cracked on that point (I must've just bent it in a way that time that triggered it)! It's very tough stuff ... but when it goes you get no warning at all a bit like glass. So don't get complacent.  
Good luck!

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## Moondog55

I've cut quite a bit of acrylic sheeting for speaker and stereo projects and I agree with OBBob. Go slow, use the finest possible blade and clamp down really, really well with total edge support along the cut line
Also make sure you use PPE, the "shrapnel" is awful and really stings the eyes and lungs
There are specialised perspex blades [ very fine toothed ] but not sure it's available for that saw.

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## Ourbuild

> Hi Ourbuild ... it's actually the pre-brushless version, which I suspect is very similar except for the motor.  I have, however,  found it to be great. It has opened my eyes to the difference quality features such as a cast base plate (rather than pressed) make to performance.  
> As for the acrylic ... aweful stuff to work with but otherwise gives a nice result. I'd much rather be covered in sawdust than plastic schrapnel. A couple of tips ... 
> - for best result you really want a fine tooth blade ... 60 teeth, rather than the standard one (although I got away with it by concealing the cut edges, which really weren't too bad at all ... you can also finish with a plane)
> - you need to consider how to support the sheets if you're cutting on site because they are very flexible
> - I think the key to a nice cut is a good blade and really supporting and clamping the sheet well so it can't vibrate at the edge
> - ideally you want to use a sacrificial board under the sheet and cut through both ... again, I just put the cut 1mm out from the edge of my bench and it worked fine. 
> - doing holes with blunt drills seem to work better. Otherwise you really need to increase diameter very gradually
> - jig saw with fine blade works well for cuttouts
> - hole saws work fine ... just take it very slowly
> ...

  Awesome tips OBBob! Thanks for taking the time to list all that out. I will more than likely set up the video for this little bathroom Reno so I will show you how I get on. 
I only have one sheet but it sounds like your last one, it has a wall mounted basin, wall mounted toilet and cut tight between two walls, so should be interesting.....  :Smilie:

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## Ourbuild

> I've cut quite a bit of acrylic sheeting for speaker and stereo projects and I agree with OBBob. Go slow, use the finest possible blade and clamp down really, really well with total edge support along the cut line
> Also make sure you use PPE, the "shrapnel" is awful and really stings the eyes and lungs
> There are specialised perspex blades [ very fine toothed ] but not sure it's available for that saw.

  Cheers mate, sounds like the fine blade is the trick!

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## OBBob

> Awesome tips OBBob! Thanks for taking the time to list all that out. I will more than likely set up the video for this little bathroom Reno so I will show you how I get on. 
> I only have one sheet but it sounds like your last one, it has a wall mounted basin, wall mounted toilet and cut tight between two walls, so should be interesting.....

  Be gentle and you'll be fine... generally it's pretty forgiving and looks great.  
Mounting with double sided tape and silicone works well too. The tape holds it initially until the silicone cures.

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## Moondog55

Thanx to all the previous posts and posters. My new Makita is a joy to work with, especially compared to my Ozito firewood saws
As mentioned new blades are on the shopping list but even the cheap $8- Irwins cut exceedingly well on this

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## fredgassit

Moondog55, 
How smooth is the cut  of your new Makita on the face of a board's edge? 
 In other words, does the edge show ripple marks (caused by arbor play) and thus needs to be planed smooth? 
Thanks.

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## Moondog55

Pretty smooth considering I was using a ripping [ 40 tooth] blade and just playing around to test out the new toy.
It is more powerful for the wattage than I anticipated and I haven't bought the saw guides yet

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## fredgassit

Thank you Moonman; I might get one of these.

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