# Forum Home Renovation Cladding  Fibre Cement Cladding Comparison

## huntercg

Hi Guys,
           I am still going with my renos and am looking at my options for recladding my house as the old weatherboards are looking pretty tired. I have narrowed down my options to either BGC Nuline plus or JH Scyon Linea. Does anyone have any experience with these two products and can share some pros and cons?
Cheers

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## goldie1

I am doing my place at the moment using the BGC Nuline ( 205 mm bullnose )  Happy with the result 
Its much heavier than timber and more difficult to fit but comes up well. You need to have your frames  
nice and straight for the best results. My place is part old hardwood which is not the best but the  
new pine extension is much easier. I am using a wet saw to cut  and concealed  fixing with a coil  
nailer and have to predrill the boards on the hard wood frame but not for the pine.

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## huntercg

Unfortunately the frame on my house is all hardwood so I am assuming I will be following the same process as you Goldie. The Linea is a couple of mm thicker which did make me wonder if it may help it with the frames not being dead straight. However, the Nuline plus is cheaper and looks like a comparable product so that's the way I was leaning. Have you used the starters strips and J moulding for windows Goldie? Just looking at the cost of these they would add up pretty quick.

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## goldie1

The thicker boards won't make any difference.  I am using the starter strips as they are quick and simple 
but there is no reason you couldn't use any sort of packers. I am using the J moulding with a plastic 
flashing and then covering  with an architrave  but can't see any reason you can't just use a plastic  
flashing and architrave. For the end stops I am using timber.

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## pharmaboy2

> Unfortunately the frame on my house is all hardwood so I am assuming I will be following the same process as you Goldie. The Linea is a couple of mm thicker which did make me wonder if it may help it with the frames not being dead straight. However, the Nuline plus is cheaper and looks like a comparable product so that's the way I was leaning. Have you used the starters strips and J moulding for windows Goldie? Just looking at the cost of these they would add up pretty quick.

  they seem to be about 80c a board different on the Bunnings prices - that's linea versus Nuline plus which seem like the equivalent products (bevelled back, primed)- have a look at the product live, and pay attention to edge and corner finishes, whether they both need a sanding block to take off the edge etc.   I'd also go with my preferred supplier for a whole house lot quote, not brand of seemingly identical product (bgc unashamedly copies JH) 
final thing - accessories with detailing - using correct accessories helps with these things

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## huntercg

> they seem to be about 80c a board different on the Bunnings prices - that's linea versus Nuline plus which seem like the equivalent products (bevelled back, primed)- have a look at the product live, and pay attention to edge and corner finishes, whether they both need a sanding block to take off the edge etc.   I'd also go with my preferred supplier for a whole house lot quote, not brand of seemingly identical product (bgc unashamedly copies JH) 
> final thing - accessories with detailing - using correct accessories helps with these things

  Based on the bunnings prices in QLD its ~$10/m2 dearer for Linea then Nuline. I have shopped around at a few places and can get it a bit cheaper then bunnings. I will definitely be having a look at both products on some local houses before I order the cladding. Just thought I would enquire before hand whether anyone prefers one over the other and particularly whether the Linea is worth the extra money.
Cheers

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## goldie1

I got a better price on the Nuline and I can't see the Hardies product is any better plus I wanted the  
bullnose which Hardies don't make. With old crooked frames concealed fixing is a problem as the  
nail is near the top of the board which then causes the bottom to gap. If you nail lower down 
 on the board this is less of a problem  but then you have to fill the nails.

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## pharmaboy2

Just add in, stria is a much better product because it's grooved on the horizontal, so the single fixing works really nicely - also far more airtight than simple weatherboard profiles. 
but exy - 3x the cost I'd guess?

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## huntercg

The stria is cheaper but I'm not that keen on the look of it though. Just curious goldie where did you find your cheapest quote? Are you planning on filling any gaps with no more gaps where the frame has given you grief?  
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## goldie1

I bought mine from The Wall Store  at Clayton here in Melbourne. I filled a few areas where it was  
most noticeable but generally my frame wasn't to bad   Wall Store - We've got your walls covered

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## huntercg

So I have made a start on my recladding project with the BGC Nuline product and overall I think it is a good product. I am having a few dramas with my coil nailer and getting it to drive the nails flush. I have a bostitch n100c which I bought thinking I would need to drive through the fc into hardwood studs. However it is very hit and miss even with the compressor regulator dialled down to 70psi some of the nails are punched well below the surface whereas others bend or stick out 10mm or more. I am using these nails from tradetools https://www.tradetools.com/product-r...oth-9000-15deg . Does anyone have any tips for these fibre cement weatherboards or is hand nailing the only way to get a consistent finish? Here's a photo of the job so far..   
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## Gaza

Issue is The air in compressor is low but auto fill isn't kicking in 
You can adjust the auto start or put a second regulator at the gun

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## jimfish

I use my coil nailer for nailing all the FC cladding we do. My compressor has a 2 stage switch fitted which keeps the pressure more consistent. All depth adjustments are done on the gun not the compressor. I prefer to use ring shanked nails when nailing cladding just to be sure they don't work their way out.

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## huntercg

> Issue is The air in compressor is low but auto fill isn't kicking in 
> You can adjust the auto start or put a second regulator at the gun

  Hi gaza I've got the compressor start pressure at about 80 psi but can look at increasing it to take into account losses in the hoses etc. This is the regulator I'm adjusting the depth with https://www.tradetools.com/product-r...ulator-1-4-bsp . I am debating selling my n100c for a smaller coil nailer with depth adjustment on the gun. I was curious on how other people go with nailing fa to hardwood and if they use shorter nails etc.

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## goldie1

I used 50 mm gal ring shank nails on mine  No probs on the pine frame. On the old hardwood some 
were not driving completely home so I just knocked them in with a hammer. A few were bending 
so I would just remove and replace them

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