# Forum Home Renovation Decking  Decking Over concrete slab

## mjhnoudis

Hi everyone, 
 I've been reading through some of the posts here and have picked up a few tips but still require further help. I am planning to build a deck over the concrete slab in our alfresco area. The concrete is only 5 years old and I reasonably level. I am looking to use Jarrah boards but wanted to get some clarity and advice in a few other areas...  What size Joists should I be using? which way should they be laid - flat or on edge?if the area is predominanty undercover, do I need to worry about raising the joists off the ground?Should I dynabolt the joists down or should use a 90dge bracket instead?Has anyone used the "Camo" hidden screw deck fixing system?what is a fool proof way to make sure that my boards are laid square and straight.  
The area of the deck is11.75 m x 3.5 
Thanks in advance
Matt

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## Oldsaltoz

if the area is predominanty undercover, do I need to worry about raising the joists off the ground? 
Yes, But you only need a small gap to ensure the timbers cab dry out, I used exterior grade plastic spacers 10mm thick.

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## Marc

You need to determine the level you want your deck first, then tell us what is the distance from your required level and the ground/slab. 
Joist are usually on the edge unless you want to build something super low and then you will be dynabolting battens to the concrete. 
I think there is a place on this forum dedicated to low decks, lots of good info there.
I used the Camo screws and find them very good and easy to use. I have however only used the 60 mm never the 48 which i believe to be too short.
The guide for the screws doubles up as a spacer so the gap will be even every time. 
Having said that I don't think that a very low deck in the open or partially in the open on a slab is a good job. Timber needs ventilation to survive the heat/cold/wet/dry merry go around.

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## mjhnoudis

> You need to determine the level you want your deck first, then tell us what is the distance from your required level and the ground/slab. 
> Joist are usually on the edge unless you want to build something super low and then you will be dynabolting battens to the concrete. 
> I think there is a place on this forum dedicated to low decks, lots of good info there.
> I used the Camo screws and find them very good and easy to use. I have however only used the 60 mm never the 48 which i believe to be too short.
> The guide for the screws doubles up as a spacer so the gap will be even every time. 
> Having said that I don't think that a very low deck in the open or partially in the open on a slab is a good job. Timber needs ventilation to survive the heat/cold/wet/dry merry go around.

  
*** The maximum height I can go with the deck is 110 mm high. That will bring me flush with the floor height of the house. If I lay a 90x 45 joist on edge(90mm high) what is the best way to secure to the slab? 90 degree Ange brackets or something similar or best to use dynabolts?

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## Marc

http://www.renovateforum.com/f196/an...ns-100837/Have 
Have a read of the above thread. 
A bit different because that one is even lower, however the same applies. If you have 110mm room, take away 20mm deck, you have 90 left. You can not sit the joist straight on the concrete, you need some room for ventilation of the timber or it will rot regardless of it being H3. Consider also that your slab will almost certainty have a fall to the outside so you need to compensate for that with an uneven joist or anchor points. I would consider a lower joist and proper galvanised anchor brackets screwed in the concrete with anka screws

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## mjhnoudis

Thanks Marc, 
so do you think a 90x45 batten laid flat would be sufficient? With a 10mm spacer underneath.
Also, where the battens run short, and another one need to be laid to make up the length, is it advisable to bolt another piece of batten across the join to support it?

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## Marc

No mate, if at all possible you want to avoid timber on concrete. Avoid completely. I have not seen your job nor a photo so I am going by your description. If you have enough room for a joist to stand on its edge and keep a decent gap off the concrete, that is the prefered way to do it. 
Only if you have minimum room like 65mm or so you lay battens on the side, and then just 70x45 will do. However in your case, if I interpret your description correctly you should be able to have a joist on the edge anchored by anka screws to the concrete using galvanised brackets that will keep the timber off the concrete a tad, say 10 mm or so. Also consider that you want the deck leveled as opposed to your concrete having some sort of fall. For that you need the bracket to be at different levels to compensate for the fall. 
As much as screwing battens to the concrete may seem the easy solution, it is not a good job if part of it is uncovered, furthermore it makes it hard to clean between concrete and deck
If you have enough room consider a bracket like this or similar. If they don't make them for 45mm you just pack a piece of 90x45 next to the joist.  https://www.masters.com.au/product/1...?bmUID=kIcdMdp

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## shauck

If you have 110mm, 20mm for decking, 90mm for joist will not give you room to pack under joist. Try 70x45 (not 35 as it's not wide enough for decking butt joins). Then you can pack under the joist. There are loads of "low deck" threads in this decking section. Search and you will find them.

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## PlatypusGardens

> what is a fool proof way to make sure that my boards are laid square and straight.

  If there is one......  
.....other than stringlines, straightedges, eyeballing, measuring, clamps and lots of time..... 
.....please let us know   :Wink:

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## shauck

> If there is one......  
> .....other than stringlines, straightedges, eyeballing, measuring, clamps and lots of time..... 
> .....please let us know

  By getting your subfloor perfect for starters. Square and straight joists, especially the edge joists. You won't avoid fussing about along the way as decking material is always going to have bows, be varying in thicknesses. A loose packer here when there's a tight packer elsewhere, over the distance of the deck will add up if you don't keep checking. Or do as some do and lay intermediate decking pieces perfectly straight and square to your perfect subfloor and fill in between with rest of decking, using lots of wedges or packers. I've not tried it that way as I'm happy with my own method so far.

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## PlatypusGardens

> By getting your subfloor perfect for starters. Square and straight joists, especially the edge joists. You won't avoid fussing about along the way as decking material is always going to have bows, be varying in thicknesses. A loose packer here when there's a tight packer elsewhere, over the distance of the deck will add up if you don't keep checking. Or do as some do and lay intermediate decking pieces perfectly straight and square to your perfect subfloor and fill in between with rest of decking, using lots of wedges or packers. I've not tried it that way as I'm happy with my own method so far.

  
Of course my post was a bit tongue in cheek.    :Wink:

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## shauck

Ah...slightly undetectable tone of voice

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## PlatypusGardens

I did put one of these at the end of the post...  --->  :Wink:

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## Marc

> By getting your subfloor perfect for starters. Square and straight joists, especially the edge joists. You won't avoid fussing about along the way as decking material is always going to have bows, be varying in thicknesses. A loose packer here when there's a tight packer elsewhere, over the distance of the deck will add up if you don't keep checking. Or do as some do and lay intermediate decking pieces perfectly straight and square to your perfect subfloor and fill in between with rest of decking, using lots of wedges or packers. I've not tried it that way as I'm happy with my own method so far.

  Yes, a square subfloor is essential or you end up with a wedge at you last board. I did try that method of fixing one board in 5 perfectly square and straight and fill in the rest. It works, but so does my own way of doing it, measuring all the time and keeping a string on each board. I suppose that if you get used to do it that way it may speed up things a bit? Not sure really.

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## PlatypusGardens

> fixing one board in 5 perfectly square and straight and fill in the rest.

  Probably works in a perfect world where all the boards are exactly the same width.

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## Marc

Well the idea is to avoid accumulation of errors that end up impossible to fix. 
if you have the correct gap for 5 boards you can always compensate for width variations and fill in properly and start afresh with a square section. Some say that is the only way to do it. I am usually not pressed with time so my opinion probably does not count so I do it as I go and it ends up well most of the time. 
And, don't forget i measure in centimeters, may be that is why I get it right?  :Wink:

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## Jon

> And, don't forget i measure in centimeters, may be that is why I get it right?

  One of my children was learning about accuracy and precision at school last week.  He will tell you that if you are using centimetres then your level of precision is plus or minus half a centimetre.  If you worked in millimetres your precision would be plus or minus half a millimetre.
But we all know that you are measuring to a tenth of a centimetre - that is why your decks look good.    :Tongue:

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## shauck

I don't put in every 5th or so board. I just move the stringline about a meter away from where I'm up to and every 4th row, I check the distance from board to string line on every second joist. If I'm more than a mm or so out, I use plastic packers to correct either over the next board or the next few, depending on the magnitude of the discrepancy. Usually not more than 3mm. Mostly all measurements stay within 1mm

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## Marc

Yes, that is more or less what I do, only I have the stringline closer. Carpentry is all about measuring and cutting accurately after all. 
I use to own a furniture factory a long time ago and used to work alongside the cabinet makers. In those days they used one of those wooden foldable meters for measuring and one of those flat thick carpenters pencil for marking. I used a measuring tape and a biro for marking and was always the target of some scorn for it. Yet my measures and cut were always spot on.

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## PlatypusGardens

> those wooden foldable meters for measuring

  Yup.
I actually have one here but it's hard plastic. 
My dad still prefers them to tapes cause it's what he's used to.  
And although Sweden is metric, they are still referred to as an "inch log" (directly translated) over there.
But "Inch Stick" would probably make more sense in English.   :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

Uh-oh...this thrad is veering towards the metric/imperial topic as well....  
I blame Marc.    :Biggrin:

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## Marc

Your Swedish expression "Inch stick" is comparable to our "milage" for the distance a car has done regardless of the fact that there is perfeclty yet unknown expression ... kilometrage. Ha ha

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## PlatypusGardens

> Your Swedish expression "Inch stick" is comparable to our "milage" for the distance a car has done regardless of the fact that there is perfeclty yet unknown expression ... kilometrage. Ha ha

  
True haha.  
I think the inch stick actually has inches on it too.
Hmm....will see if I can find it and report back.    :Smilie:

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## mjhnoudis

If I lay the joists at 450 centers, do I still need to put a frame around the edges or are the joists sufficient on their own?

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## mjhnoudis

> If there is one......  
> .....other than stringlines, straightedges, eyeballing, measuring, clamps and lots of time..... 
> .....please let us know

  What I was wanting to know was a technique to ensure that the corner I start from is square. what can I use to do this?

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## Jon

Use a 3 4 5 triangle 
- phythagoris theory.   Picture a triangle with sides of 3m 4m and 5m.  The angle at the intersection of the 3m and 4m sides is 90 degrees
In the corner you want square mark 4m along your wall and 3m on the piece you want at 90 degrees.  Now put a tape between your two marks. When the long side of the triangle is 5m then your corner is dead square.

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## PlatypusGardens

> What I was wanting to know was a technique to ensure that the corner I start from is square. what can I use to do this?

  
Oh I see.
Yeh
What Jon said  :Smilie:   
That said, it only gives you a starting point
Board width/straightness variation along the way still needs to be adjusted and allowed for accordingly.   
joists at 450 centres will be "strong enough"...yes...
If you want to frame the deck, however, like a picture frame, you will have to build sub-frame to accomodate this.    :Wink:

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## Marc

Oops, I forgot this was actually a decking thread, sorry mate. 
So you decided to go joist up? 70x45 I presume? How do you fix the joist to the concrete? Have a look at a thread just below this one, similar situation and some clever clips used for attaching to concrete. 
Because you are so low, you don't need to think about blocks or a joist across the ends, and you don't want to block off the little chance you have to clean under the deck with a blower. 
If you are building a rectangle sized deck, the easiest way to check if the whole contraption is square is by measuring the diagonals with a tape. Of course if your shape is irregular that goes out the window. 
A giant square like suggested, made out of a multiple of 3,4,5 may be of help. I once had to dig a trench square to another and made myself a square with bamboo, 3,4 and 5 meters long, yet I was 15 had a lot more enthusiasm than I have now and lasers were only a concept. Today I have a square that has a laser pointer incorporated, good enough to be seen in daylight. It is not 5 meters long, only 600 mm yet it works like a charm. Not suggesting you buy one though, just use your tape.

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## PlatypusGardens

> lasers were only a concept

  When was this, late 1800's?

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## Marc

Not if you live in Never Never land

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## David.Elliott

Just came across this one... 
I had a roof chippy mate, that has much other experience, assist with framing and flooring a couple of verandahs...
He used the 3/4/5 triangle through an app on his phone to dial in the one known dimension and it gave him the other two. 
We then framed up in treated pine on the pre-prepared stumps. 
In keeping with the rustic nature of the cottage I managed to source some rough sawn boards that had been sitting for lots of years.
Got a couple of hundred lengths of anywhere between 25 and 35mm thick and 145 to 160 wide at around 2200 long for $430.00.
Most not straight but all near as dammit flat. 
Due to the variable widths, we had to come up with a way to get the gaps the same. 
So we cut and drilled 4 boards and laid them on the frame. Took a measure of the 4 boards and added 5mm x 4, measured and screwed the 4th board down. 
Then with a stainless 5mm spacer, got the intervening boards evenly spaced. Screwed down, done. 
Thickness was a different beast. I ended up taking the elecric plane to the back of the boards where they were on the joists. Trial and error, but worked... 
A bit like the idea above, but works around any difference in the board widths...

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## PlatypusGardens

> Not if you live in Never Never land

  
Who knows. 
I'm off with the faeries most of the time.

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## mjhnoudis

[QUOTE=Marc;963198]Oops, I forgot this was actually a decking thread, sorry mate. 
So you decided to go joist up? 70x45 I presume? How do you fix the joist to the concrete? Have a look at a thread just below this one, similar situation and some clever clips used for attaching to concrete. 
Because you are so low, you don't need to think about blocks or a joist across the ends, and you don't want to block off the little chance you have to clean under the deck with a blower.   
Thanks for that Marc. Yes I have decided to go joists up, 70x45 secured with 90 degree angle brackets at every 900 alternating sides. 
It looks like I will be giving the picture frame finish a miss... the wife doesnt like the look of it... So I won't need to completely frame the joists. I'm just planning to mount them to the slab at every 433.5 for even spacing across the deck. Looks like I will also be using Jarrah as well with the Camo hidden screw system. Does anyone have any tips or red flags that I should be aware of when working with Jarrah or the Camo hidden screw decking system...? 
I have read a fair bit of info on this site regarding oiling the timber etc when cutting it and prior to laying it. Seeing as I am so low to the ground, is it better to use decking oil to seal the underneath of the boards, or should I look at using a 'timber sealer' product? Not sure if there is any difference! 
The slab I am laying over has already been painted with exterior concrete paint so not a lot of moisture will seep through. I was going to paint the treated pine joists as well as run some  of the black waterproof plastic over each one. The area is undercover with a little bit of rain that can come through on the outer edge (which I plan to close off with cafe style blinds shortly). Is the painting and plastic on the joists overkill? Is oiling the underside of the boards enough?

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## Marc

I don't remember ever using Jarrah for a deck so can not help you there, however I used the Camo screws a lot and find them very good. I always state that the 60mm should be used and not the 45 because at the angle they are. As far as oiling or painting or using undercoat for the underside of the deck, we had long debates about it, just like about painting the treated pine joist or bearers. Some say yes others say no and each has their own defence.  I always pre paint bearers and joist and I have started to use joist protectors. I used to staple damp course plastic but the extra work is not worth my time. best to use the proper product. However in your case under cover, I hardly see the need. As far as oiling under the deck boards, I am not sure what to tell you being that you are under cover. Probably will not make any difference. The part you need to watch is the end of the board that will receive some rain.

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## mjhnoudis

Thanks for the advice everyone. I am planning to start this project over the Easter long weekend! I have decided on Jarrah 85mm boards and I'm chomping at the bit to get started.  
Can someone suggest the right length dynabolts I should be using to bolt down the brackets that will support my joists. I am thinking galvanized dynabolts 8mm x 65mm. Any thoughts on this? Should they be longer?

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## PlatypusGardens

Do you know how thick the concrete is?   :Smilie:

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## mjhnoudis

Its an extension of the house slab so it is 600 deep (I think)

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## r3nov8or

> Its an extension of the house slab so it is 600 deep (I think)

   600 will only be at the edges and possibly a beam here and there. The rest could be as little as 70 to 100. Do you have the slab specs for the extension?

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## mjhnoudis

I'd have to check when I get home. If I go by what you are saying, then 8mm x 65mm long dynabolts should be sufficient?

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## r3nov8or

> I'd have to check when I get home. If I go by what you are saying, then 8mm x 65mm long dynabolts should be sufficient?

   Yep, pretty much. Best you don't drill right through the bottom of the slab, so knowing how deep the slab is will dictate how careful you need to be.

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## Marc

The slab itself will be 100, the footing on the edges, may be 400 to 500... 600? wow ... well, dynabolts ... 65 long is plenty, but use 10mm not 8mm. dynabolts are crappy creatures and the smaller they are the worst they behave.

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## mjhnoudis

ok, so I have checked the thickness of the slab and it is a 100mm top, so I am assuming that the 65mm dynabolts will suffice.
As mentioned earlier, I was going to build the deck in Jarrah but the supplier who has given me a sharp price now tells me that it will be supplied in random lengths, with the longest expected length of 3m, and the shortest length 1.8m. 
I think the short lengths will assist with bows, but am I missing some other potential issues by using shorter lengths? 
a part of my brain is telling me to go merbau and get longer lengths... but I like the look of Jarrah. 
Any advice guys...?

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## PlatypusGardens

How many suppliers do you have nearby?
Some will let you pick the lengths you want if you ask nicely (with a sixpack of beer in hand on a Friday afternoon) 
Might be worth looking at getting it from a bit further away, pay a bit more and get what you want.
I also prefer as long boards as possible and less joins.   :Smilie:

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## r3nov8or

A badly bent short board is harder to straighten than a badly bent long board

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## mjhnoudis

Good to know!

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## PlatypusGardens

> A badly bent short board is harder to straighten than a badly bent long board

  
So true.. 
And as I said to that other bloke, don't take the boards out of the pack until you need them.
Always amazes me how fast boards warp when left out in the open.   :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

Hmmm... Warp speed?  
???

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## mjhnoudis

ok... the next question I am looking for advice on is this... 
With the Butt joins, It has been recommended that the holes be pre drilled (using the camo hidden deck system), then screwed to prevent splitting at least 25mm from each end. The joists will be 45mm wide.
That I have got 
the other thing that was suggested to me was that for every butt join, another piece of timber should be added to the joists to provide further thickness for the screws to catch on to.
So, what way should this extra piece be attached to the joist? Does it only need to be bugle screwed in or should a 90 degree angle bracket be dynabolted to the concrete and then secured to the additional piece of wood, then attached to the original joist?
I am a bit confused here and dont want to over engineer this deck to death! 
Hope that makes sense.

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## PlatypusGardens

I'm not familiar with the Camo Screws, but if you need to add a piece to the joist, just screw it on.    :Smilie:

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## r3nov8or

I wouldn't add anything to the joists as described. To achieve 25 mm back from each butt join end, just start the predrilling at 25 mm and drill at an angle towards the joist. You can install these Camo screws without the usual guiding apparatus.

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## Marc

I have used the Camo screws and never had a problem with the joints. You can start your pre drilling away from the joint and angle it towards the joist if you want to make double sure. 
You will have to use the guide to pre drill in order to get it in the right spot. You have no chance to do that free hand. You can start the hole with the guide and then finish predrilling free hand at an angle. Remember to keep pressure down on the board as you use the Camo screw. If you pre drill and then place a screw in the hole, the cutting end of the screw will have little to oppose going forward and it tends to bait and screw straight in splitting the board, the very thing you are trying to prevent by pre drilling. it takes a bit getting used to. I learned to do it without predrilling at all, just letting the screw drill without any pressure. It all depends from what type of timber you are using. if you keep on splitting the ends, there is nothing wrong in adding a piece of 90x45 to the side of the joist with a couple of screws and liquid nail, and then you can have your screws 40mm away from the joint. A bit more work, that's all.

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## PlatypusGardens

Hmm just looked up those camo screws.
Not sure if I like the idea of screwing the boards in from "the side" like that.
Seems like the boards could split over time if there's a bit of warping/cupping?   
I think I'll stick to the good old fashioned top mounted screws...   :Smilie:

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## Marc

I have used the Camo screws and never had a problem with the joints. You can start your pre drilling away from the joint and angle it towards the joist if you want to make double sure. 
You will have to use the guide to pre drill in order to get it in the right spot. You have no chance to do that free hand. You can start the hole with the guide and then finish predrilling free hand at an angle. Remember to keep pressure down on the board as you use the Camo screw. If you pre drill and then place a screw in the hole, the cutting end of the screw will have little to oppose going forward and it tends to bait and screw straight in splitting the board, the very thing you are trying to prevent by pre drilling. it takes a bit getting used to. I learned to do it without predrilling at all, just letting the screw drill without any pressure. It all depends from what type of timber you are using. if you keep on splitting the ends, there is nothing wrong in adding a piece of 90x45 to the side of the joist with a couple of screws and liquid nail, and then you can have your screws 40mm away from the joint. A bit more work, that's all.

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## PlatypusGardens

You're repeating yourself, Marc....

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## Marc

Nee, it's an eco ... ha ha, not sure what happened there. Can't edit anymore ... why having such a short edit window? For bad spelling preservation?
Another thing to do with Camo is to top drill the ends.

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## mjhnoudis

Thanks for the advice. I'm using 85mm jarrah boards for the deck. The project starts on the Easter long weekend. I will be posting photos to show my progress. Hopefully I have thought of most things and prepared adequately! I'm looking forward to getting started.

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## mjhnoudis

ok... well the project is underway and it is taking a lot longer than I had expected!
Joists have been coated in bitumen paint and secured to the slab. I have used 10mm plastic spacers to lift them off the ground. 90 degree angle brackets dynabolted in with bugel screw and nailed in.
Jarrah deck boards are being oiled on the underside before being installed. Camo screws working well so far... 
Im trying to upload some pictures but I am not having any luck...

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## PlatypusGardens

> Im trying to upload some pictures but I am not having any luck...

   Are you using the image icon up there ^ ?
Try "go advanced" rather than "quick reply"  and use the  "manage attachments" option down the page maybe? 
Dunno...   :Smilie:

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## mjhnoudis

I will post more photos as I progress

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## PlatypusGardens

Wow, lots of work there. 
Looks ok from here though!
well done    :Thumbsup:

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## mjhnoudis

thanks for the tip by the way with posting photos... worked straight away! 
Yeah there has been a bit of work go into it so far... 150 holes needed to be drilled into the concrete... 7 drill bits later and I got there. 
I found that it helped having better quality drill bits to get through the slab and reinforcement mesh. I also used an industrial vacuum to suck up the dust whilst I was drilling the holes out which made getting the dynabolts in so much easier. 
I will update with more photos as I progress.

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## r3nov8or

You should have lashed out on a $80 SDS Rotary hammer drills (e.g. Ozito) and SDS bits. They eat concrete.

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## mjhnoudis

I was using a Hitachi Rotary Hammer Drill... the killer was I started to use SDS "Trade Quality" drill bits (x4). I now know 'Trade Quality" means "cheap rubbish"! 
Once I went back to bunnings and bought some good quality drill bits, life was much easier!

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## r3nov8or

Wow. Ok. I have had the Aldi rotary drill and bits for many years. Certainly not a weekly use item, but the bits seem indestructable.

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## PlatypusGardens

The first pic looks a bit like a train station with the brickwork and the big clock    :Smilie:

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## phild01

> The first pic looks a bit like a train station with the brickwork and the big clock

  ...and the maroon platform and the waiting room :Biggrin:

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## mjhnoudis

I thought I would add some updated pics on my progress. It has taken me a fair bit longer than anticipated, but I am hoping that 1 more solid weekend should see it completed. 
I have been oiling the underside of the boards and all cuts made. 
I have been suing the camo hidden system and some advice for anyone wanting to use it... make sure that you regularly clear out the tool to avoid it clogging!

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## PlatypusGardens

> I have been suing the camo hidden system

  You took them to court?   :Confused:        
Seriously though, looking good.    :Smilie:

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## mjhnoudis

It's a typo...
*using

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## PlatypusGardens

Yeh......I got that.......

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## METRIX

> Yeh......I got that.......

  Don't joke about things like that, this is Serious stuff  :Club:

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## PlatypusGardens

> Don't joke about things like that, this is Serious stuff

  
Sorry Sir, won't happen again.   
At least not today...    :Sneaktongue:

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## mjhnoudis

Thanks Platypus...
im pretty happy with how it's turning out. Can't wait to get it finished!

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## METRIX

> Sorry Sir, won't happen again.   
> At least not today...

  I'm watching you.

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## ringtail

Oh that's just great. Now I have to go to sleep with that image burnt into my retinas.  :Biggrin:

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## PlatypusGardens

And that's how I will picture Metrix from now on....    :Rofl:

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## METRIX

> And that's how I will picture Metrix from now on....

  Imagine opening the door to see that thing standing there, Hi there I've come to quote on your new deck, I don;t think yo would get too much work. :Biggrin:

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## Marc

> I was using a Hitachi Rotary Hammer Drill... the killer was I started to use SDS "Trade Quality" drill bits (x4). I now know 'Trade Quality" means "cheap rubbish"! 
> Once I went back to bunnings and bought some good quality drill bits, life was much easier!

  They actually *are* trade quality, only problem is they don't tell you which trade ... it is for bakers to make the hole in the donats and for cheesemakers to make the holes in the Jarlsberg ! 
Uuuuh that is some ugly baby !!!!!!!!

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## PlatypusGardens

> Imagine opening the door to see that thing standing there, Hi there I've come to quote on your new deck, I don;t think yo would get too much work.

  
At least wipe the lipstick marks off first...

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## METRIX

> Uuuuh that is some ugly baby !!!!!!!!

  Baby's big brother wont be happy to hear you say that.

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## mjhnoudis

Hi All, 
 I have finally completed my deck over the slab at the back of my place. It did take me longer than expected but I think it looks pretty good, even if I do say so myself. 
 Thank you to everyone who answered questions and provided advice to me on this project. Your valuable knowledge has helped me to achieve a great looking deck! 
 Some learning for those of you who may embark on such a project.....   I chose to do this in Jarrah and I wasn't guaranteed long lengths... this resulted in many shorter boards that proved to be harder to bend into shape and took longer to lay. I would suggest longer lengths and pre oiled if possible.I oiled the underneath of each board before layingI painted the joists in bitumen paint for additional protection -  good idea in theory but as it is sticky, it would leave marks on the underside of the boards when I was laying/measuring. This isn't really an issue UNLESS you but the board down the wrong wayCAMO fastening system is a great system - very expensive but I would suggest getting onto ebay - I got the screws for 1/2 the price (inc delivery) compared to what Bunnings was trying to slug me! The camo system is great for guys like me who were worried about not having dead straight screws... it would be obvious to all looking, but now with this system, you cannot see where the screws are, therefore no wonky lines!  
I will be adding some completed photos shortly. I would welcome any feedback and happy to answer any questions for those people looking for help/assistance.

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## PlatypusGardens

Happy days!   :Smilie:

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## mjhnoudis



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## METRIX

Nice Job, Well done.

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## PlatypusGardens

Sweet.  
Gotta be happy with that!!!   :Thumbsup:   :2thumbsup:   :Cool:   :Tongue:   :Biggrin:

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## ringtail

Nice job.  :2thumbsup:

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## michaelcb

Very nice  :brava: 
How long on total did it take to lay?

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## notvery

Its amazing the difference. comparing the chipped painted concrete to that is just chalk an cheese. the concrete and paint really had a negative effect on the rest of the house in the photos you posted when you compare it to the deck now it looks just great

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## mjhnoudis

Hi Michaelcb, 
overall, the project took me 9 days to do on my own. that covers painting the joists to putting the final coat of oil on. I thought that I should have been able to get it done faster, but seeing as I wasn't charging myself by the hour... it wasn't an issue

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## mjhnoudis

> Its amazing the difference. comparing the chipped painted concrete to that is just chalk an cheese. the concrete and paint really had a negative effect on the rest of the house in the photos you posted when you compare it to the deck now it looks just great

  Thanks Notvery, 
when we did the extension, i was trying to keep in with the style of the house (1920's bungalow) and married the red concrete out the back to match that of the front. The issue was that the concrete didn't etch properly and after a year or so after painting, it started to flake off. The paint also discolored and when it got dusts, it was really hard to clean and never came back to its original shine... 
that's why I went with the deck and I'm so glad that i did. It makes that whole area look great and feel so much better!  
I loved getting out there and doing it as well... 
Now I am just wondering what the next project will be!

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## PlatypusGardens

9 days is good going.   :Smilie:

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## r3nov8or

Great work. What did you coat it with?

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## Marc

Great job and very nice choice of timber ... one question, why are those metal crabs climbing the posts?

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## PlatypusGardens

> one question, why are those metal crabs climbing the posts?

  
Haha

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## Teriwrist

> Great job and very nice choice of timber ... one question, why are those metal crabs climbing the posts?

  Aren't they just the base plate covers for the poles? (cover the bolts etc?) I assume they will be grinded / hacked off now though?

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## mjhnoudis

> Great work. What did you coat it with?

   I coated it with a product called AussieClear. 
I got it from Masters at a great price. My brother in laws mate had used it and recommended it. It went on easy and looks good. Hopefully it holds up nicely

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## mjhnoudis

> Aren't they just the base plate covers for the poles? (cover the bolts etc?) I assume they will be grinded / hacked off now though?

   I wasn't planning on grinding them off as they tie in with all the posts on the adjoining driveway, HOWEVER, now that I am looking at putting zip track blinds in, I will have to cut them off to be able t run the tracks and fully enclose it.

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