# Forum Home Renovation Waterproofing  Bondbreaker questions

## atregent

Hi All 
I have one final query about the waterproofing process (I'm pretty sure...) 
Having another read over AS3740, the bondbreaker detail for class 3 membranes is simply a bead/fillet of flexible sealer (Fig. 5.7 for those following along at home). Actual bond breaker is specified for class 2 membranes, and backing rod + tape for class 1 
The data sheet for Durabit EF would seem to confirm this in the detailing section for corners, joins, gaps and cracks. Duram Product Data Sheet - Durabit EF 
Does this mean that all I need to do in the corners and joins is lay a bead of Sikiflex Pro or FC (there was a tube of Pro in the kit that I bought, but that takes a while to cure), let it cure and then apply the membrane? I also have some Durascrim reinforcing tape, but according to the datasheet is only specified for large or live cracks.

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## Oldsaltoz

> Hi All 
> I have one final query about the waterproofing process (I'm pretty sure...) 
> Having another read over AS3740, the bondbreaker detail for class 3 membranes is simply a bead/fillet of flexible sealer (Fig. 5.7 for those following along at home). Actual bond breaker is specified for class 2 membranes, and backing rod + tape for class 1  Common practice in domestic showers to install a bond breaker around the floor wall joint of the shower only, stick the backing down with a suitable sealant (depending on the waterproofing product being used) and cover it with masking tape, the objective is to prevent the waterproofing getting inside the joint so that it's free to move. 
> The data sheet for Durabit EF would seem to confirm this in the detailing section for corners, joins, gaps and cracks. Duram Product Data Sheet - Durabit EF 
> Does this mean that all I need to do in the corners and joins is lay a bead of Sikiflex Pro or FC (there was a tube of Pro in the kit that I bought, but that takes a while to cure), let it cure and then apply the membrane? I also have some Durascrim reinforcing tape, but according to the data sheet is only specified for large or live cracks.

  Your wall corners also need bond breakers (or slip) joints to allow for any movement.
Common practice is to use a Silicon based sealant in these areas, primarily because nothing sticks to silicon.
If you prefer another type of sealant the joint has to covered with a silicon based release tape. 
And don't forget to seal the taps and all nail heads, Sikaflex11FC id fine these areas. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:  
I

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## atregent

Thanks for that, I think I'm on track now. 
In previous posts you mention that you use 'craft tape' as a bond breaking tape. I've had a look at the tape selection at Bunnings, and couldn't find anything that matched the description. Is it a bit of a specialty thing, or does it go by some other name? Or would a low tack masking tape do the trick?

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## Oldsaltoz

> Thanks for that, I think I'm on track now. 
> You mention 'craft tape' as a bond breaking tape. Looked in Bunnings, and couldn't find anything that matched the description. Is it a bit of a speciality thing? Or would a low tack masking tape do the trick?

  Masking tape will most likely absorb your waterproofing medium, depending on the product. I would not advise the use of masking tape at all. 
Try 'Spot Light' or or other craft outlet, ask the wife for the nearest sewing shop. 
TIP: To get a nice sharp corner with tape, stick down one side only, then using the roll of tale and starting at the bottom, push the edge of the roll into the corner and pull it up the corner keeping it tight on both faces. (old panel beater trick). 
Good luck and fair winds. ~ ><((((º> <º}}}}>< ~  :Smilie:

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## atregent

Thanks for the tip! 
I think I've found the tape in question,  is this what I'm after?  http://www.eckersleys.com.au/product...rown-tape-roll 
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

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## Oldsaltoz

> Thanks for the tip! 
> I think I've found the tape in question,  is this what I'm after?  Kraft Brown Tape Roll

  No that's not it, you are looking for a tape that willNot stick to itself, and silicon based. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## atregent

Ok, I think I've found the right stuff now.  Silicone Paper Tape - 48mm x 50mtr

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## Oldsaltoz

> Ok, I think I've found the right stuff now.  Silicone Paper Tape - 48mm x 50mtr

  That looks perfect. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## eek

> Hi All 
> I have one final query about the waterproofing process (I'm pretty sure...) 
> Having another read over AS3740, the bondbreaker detail for class 3 membranes is simply a bead/fillet of flexible sealer (Fig. 5.7 for those following along at home). Actual bond breaker is specified for class 2 membranes, and backing rod + tape for class 1 
> The data sheet for Durabit EF would seem to confirm this in the detailing section for corners, joins, gaps and cracks. Duram Product Data Sheet - Durabit EF 
> Does this mean that all I need to do in the corners and joins is lay a bead of Sikiflex Pro or FC (there was a tube of Pro in the kit that I bought, but that takes a while to cure), let it cure and then apply the membrane? I also have some Durascrim reinforcing tape, but according to the datasheet is only specified for large or live cracks.

    I believe I may have just purchased the exact same kit asthis person except swapped the Durabit EF with Azcothane Reo. Both class 3membranes except the latter has some kind of reinforcing in it, yet is stillflexible.  According to the retailer and the manufacturers website, itspecifies any polyurethane sealant applied to corners forming a fillet covering10mm either side acts as a sufficient bond breaker.Is there any real benefit in going over thesewith a silicon silicon kraft paper tape or silicon? Presumably the tape createsa wider area where the membrane wont be adhered to whereas the sealant/siliconprovides maybe a 30mm wide envelope where theres no adhesion.

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## Oldsaltoz

Using a Silicon based tape means the membrane will not stick to it. This in turn means that if there is some movement in the structure the waterproofing is free to flex rather than break. 
You can cet the same effect by using a Silicon based sealant. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## METRIX

Get yourself some professional bondbreaker / reinforced bandage, Bunnings sell a retail version of the trade product available from Gripset, only difference is the colour, retail is blue trade is grey. 
You can also get premade heat welded corner and wall penetrations, waterproofing is not a near enough is good enough scenario, get some proper products if you want it to last.  Waterproofing Detailing Elastic Joint Band 5M Gripset Betta I/N 0960177 | Bunnings Warehouse  Waterproofing Detailing Internal Corner 90deg Gripset Betta I/N 0960174 | Bunnings Warehouse

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## shauck

They make sleeves for tap penetrations too. Also a good idea.

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