# Forum Home Renovation Plumbing  Self-made rainwater tank gauge???

## Ashwood

Hi,
I've just bought a rainwater tank. As with most, it's opaque and you can't really tell how much water there is inside. 
Instead of buying a tank gauge, an idea came to mind the other day.  
The thought was to install a branch off the pipe near the tank outlet point (which is at the bottom of the tank) and connect a vertical transparent pipe or hose which runs vertically all the way past the top of the tank (and secure this pipe/hose so it stays firmly in place). Basically, the water level in this pipe/hose is the same as that in the tank. Haven't explored the existence/availability of transparent pipes or the connectors to use to join a hose to the piping at the bottom of the tank, but one possibility in mind is to use standard water hoses (i've seen transparent ones before) and using the clips used in garden irrigation systems. 
Any thoughts or put-downs on this idea?? The intention is to have a cheap and visually accurate gauge. Have seen one or two gauges which may be used, but they are not cheap, and I'm not confident of their reliability; plus seeing a dial that points to a circular gauge isn't as clear as actually sighting the water level itself next to the tank).

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## LordBug

It definitely works, we had one on a tank on the farm. 
My only advice would be to try to position it out of the sun, because the UV damage makes it hard to work out the water level after a few years.

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## chrisp

... and, perhaps, place a brightly coloured floating ball or float in the tube to make it easy to read from a distance?

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## Vernonv

Ashwood, as the others have said - include a coloured ball and keep the hose out of the sun. The clear hose may be a potential weak spot in the system and you'd hate to find your tank empty because the level gauge split/cracked/broke and all the water drained. 
Also there is such a thing as food/drinking water grade hose - this I assume means that other sorts of hose are not "safe" for drinking water???

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## Metal Head

Hi Ashwood, 
You may find this link helpful :Wink:   http://www.renovateforum.com/showthread.php?t=40965 
Regads
MH

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## Scarlette

I also have this type of guage on my horse stable tank. It's not in the sun but the clear hose tends to get a bit green and slimey. I figure a couple of metres of clear hose is fairly cheap and i'll just replace it when i can't see the level anymore.

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## Ashore

Works fine , but put a valve at the bottom of the tube, makes replacement espically if you run out of hose , as said a small piece of coloured foam makes it easier to see the level  :2thumbsup:

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## thatirwinfella

a quick thought... you may not be able to cap the top of the guage, as any air trapped in there may prevent the water from rising to the proper level, so a vent of some sort would be neccessary. 
The guage probably won't be 100% accurate due the the volume of water in the guage pipe, but it would would still give a close enough reading for most household purposes.

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## Metal Head

Hi Ashwood, 
This is something that can be bought at the link below :Confused:  or made by ones self :Wink: .    http://www.plasticplumbing.com.au/newfeatureprods_1.htm 
Regrds
MH

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## malb

As per the previous few posts, including a valve at the base of the tube to isolate it in case of damage, and maybe some sort of flow restriction if the thing will be somewhere where it won't be checked daily. That way, if the tube is damaged, you have a slow leak instead of a major one. Downside would be that the tube level would take longer to stabilise as tank fills or drains. Type of thing I'm thinking of would be some sort of plug between with a 1mm or so feeder hole through it.

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## Scarlette

> a quick thought... you may not be able to cap the top of the guage, as any air trapped in there may prevent the water from rising to the proper level, so a vent of some sort would be neccessary. 
> The guage probably won't be 100% accurate due the the volume of water in the guage pipe, but it would would still give a close enough reading for most household purposes.

  My hose is open at the top, it's longer than the tank is high so the excess hose is just wrapped around the dwv pipe coming from the gutter, as thats directly above the outlet on my tank. But you're right.. if it was to kink and cut of the air getting out that would make an inaccurate measurement.

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## Ashwood

Hi all,
Thanks very much for all your input. Great advice & leads/links. I'm gonna go for it. 
Re hose end at the top, my thinking was to just wrap some insect mesh at the top to prevent the mozzies or any dirt getting in. I will be using metal clips (the screw on metal straps) to hold the hose (or pipe, if I can find that) secure vertically -  fixing the clips to the floor joists (my tanks are under the house, which has a high clearance below due to the slope of the land). 
The photo by Metal Head is a great image I can follow re fittings, and after Ashore's suggestion, i willl make sure the hose/pipe is "outside of " my isolation tap, so that i can replace any damaged tube/pipe easily. 
Cheers.

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## LouL

Hi Ashwood, 
If you haven't done anything yet, you may want to consider a differnt solution which would be safer, cheaper and easier to install.
Plus you would be able to see the water level in your tank at a glance from a distance. And its Aussie made  :Smilie:  
They actually talk about the drawbacks of the tube system.  www.tankwaterlevel.com

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## m6sports

How about having a Inlet that you open to check the level and then an out let to drain the plastic pipe so water is never sitting in it 
you then just open it to see the water level and then close it to insure nothing fails

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## LouL

> How about having a Inlet that you open to check the level and then an out let to drain the plastic pipe so water is never sitting in it 
> you then just open it to see the water level and then close it to insure nothing fails

  From the website link in my previous post....
"*The external clear plastic tube type is a good idea but like the dial type gauges, you still have to get up relatively close to see the water level in the tube and as the tube starts to tarnish from exposure to the elements you have to get closer and closer to see it. Plus if the bottom of the tube should get damaged by frost or vermin you could wake up to an empty tank. As a safeguard some of this type are fitted with a valve that you have to turn on every time you want to check the level, just don't forget to turn it off! This defeats the purpose of checking the level at a glance. And you would nearly have to be a plumber or a very competent handyman to cut or alter your tank outlet pipe to fit in the 'T' piece for the plastic tube..... after you hunt around finding the right size adaptor for your pipe."*  Another thing I would add; if you ultimately decide to use the tube and tap valve and you live in a frosty area, make sure you use a 'gate' type tap and not a 'ball' tap as these are prone to crack and leak in a severe frost.  * *

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## m6sports

Great minds think alike I didn't even go to that site  :Smilie:

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## wonderplumb

> Another thing I would add; if you ultimately decide to use the tube and tap valve and you live in a frosty area, make sure you use a 'gate' type tap and not a 'ball' tap as these are prone to crack and leak in a severe frost

  Quite the contrary, the spindles in gate valves have a bad habit of breaking which renders the valve useless. Ball valves are a case hardened ball in a nylon seat and near impossible to break.

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## Danny

+1 with wonderplumb. 
The website does not show the fitting instructions but states a 12 mm hole has to be drilled into the tank. It would be good if 'they' had instructions and a close up photo so that people could see the attached section entering the hole. What type of fasteners (if any) are supplied? Given that the website states that it is suitable for all types of tanks and given that a large photo of a galvanised tank is shown on the home page, I hope that you (they) are aware of electrolysis and inform customers accordingly if metal fasteners are used. The website states no screws are used but lacks other detail. 
It looks interesting and well priced but given that Ashwood's last post on this thread was 3 years ago, it could be reasonably assumed that he has moved on. I would consider it if some practical information and detail was provided. Vague references to 'small coke bottles' and the like just doesn't cut it.

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## LouL

> Quite the contrary, the spindles in gate valves have a bad habit of breaking which renders the valve useless. Ball valves are a case hardened ball in a nylon seat and near impossible to break.

  Yes, I agree re spindles breaking on cheaper taps especially when people tend to constantly over tighten them. However I can speak from experience re ball type taps having lost three on a particularly cold night. Whilest the ball itself may be case hardened the body of the tap is not and when the small amount of water caught in the hole of the ball freezes and expands it cracks the wall of the tap.
Some people drill a pin hole on the side of the tap so that the water in the hole of the ball drains out when the valve is closed. 
Ther is a company that claims to make an "anti-frost" ball valve here: R E N O V A T I N G

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## LouL

> +1 with wonderplumb. 
> The website does not show the fitting instructions but states a 12 mm hole has to be drilled into the tank. It would be good if 'they' had instructions and a close up photo so that people could see the attached section entering the hole. What type of fasteners (if any) are supplied? Given that the website states that it is suitable for all types of tanks and given that a large photo of a galvanised tank is shown on the home page, I hope that you (they) are aware of electrolysis and inform customers accordingly if metal fasteners are used. The website states no screws are used but lacks other detail. 
> It looks interesting and well priced but given that Ashwood's last post on this thread was 3 years ago, it could be reasonably assumed that he has moved on. I would consider it if some practical information and detail was provided. Vague references to 'small coke bottles' and the like just doesn't cut it.

  My mistake, I didn't see that the year was 2008! Would be good if Ashwood came back and told us how its working out  :Smilie:  
As for a close up photo of how the indicator is attached, it is on the website, here is the link to the page (scroll down): OUR PRODUCT

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## Danny

LouL, 
Thanks for the reply. 
I had already seen the photo you linked; as far as I can tell, it fits into the hole without any attachments or pressure/sealing clamp from underneath. Is this correct?  
I am all for recycling but the reference to the coke bottle float has me intrigued, is this the only recyclable material that a customer has to supply? It would be good if the website showed the parts supplied and stated the materials they are made from as well as showing the fitting instructions. In particular, the white part that goes across the top of the tank looks like some type of white plastic tube with black electrical tape wound around it to secure it to a flat base. What is this part(s) and what material is it made from? Are the 'black objects' actual clamps or is it tape as appears? 
I am reluctant to purchase a product that does not disclose all information. I will purchase two if I can be confident with the product's material as been suitable for use even though information of its mechanical workings has not been disclosed.

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## LouL

> LouL, 
> Thanks for the reply. 
> I had already seen the photo you linked; as far as I can tell, it fits into the hole without any attachments or pressure/sealing clamp from underneath. Is this correct?  
> I am all for recycling but the reference to the coke bottle float has me intrigued, is this the only recyclable material that a customer has to supply? It would be good if the website showed the parts supplied and stated the materials they are made from as well as showing the fitting instructions. In particular, the white part that goes across the top of the tank looks like some type of white plastic tube with black electrical tape wound around it to secure it to a flat base. What is this part(s) and what material is it made from? Are the 'black objects' actual clamps or is it tape as appears? 
> I am reluctant to purchase a product that does not disclose all information. I will purchase two if I can be confident with the product's material as been suitable for use even though information of its mechanical workings has not been disclosed.

  Hello Danny,
Believe me my kit is that simple that if I provided the fitting instructions on the website you would say, "Hell, that's so simple I'll make one myself!"
Anyway this is only a hobby to me so whilst I won't tell how to make your own I will answer some of your questions.
You will need a large "coke" shaped plastic bottle (you could use a standard type bottle but you will see why a "coke" type is better if you buy a kit) and a 2 or 3 litre plastic milk or similar bottle with built in handle. I think most households would have these items and regularly put them in the recycle bin.
What you see in the picture is the unit as it fits on the tank, there is NO screws or tape holding it in place, though in the supplied instructions I do recommend a bit of silicone around the hole where it enters the tank to seal it, it will become obvious why it stays there without screws when you fit it.
What you see in the picture is a 10mmX3mm aluminium support and a plastic coated steel guide tube held in place with black shrink tubing.
Providing you have an inspection/strainer hole big enough to pass the milk bottle through it will fit your tank/s.
The line supplied is enough for a tank up to 4 metres higher, if its higher let us know and extra line will be supplied free of charge.
To be fair to this forum if you need any more info please use the email contact on the website.
(I typed this quickly, please excuse any spelling mistakes)
Kind regards,
Lou

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## Danny

Hi Lou, 
I appreciate what you say and I don't mind giving a financial vote of support to someone who has taken the time to develop a simple and cost effective solution in lieu of the other unnecessarily complicated and costly options in the market place. The fact that you also recycle some common use packaging is also a bonus in my eyes. I could easily come up with something myself but the fact that I have never thought to do so in the past is good enough reason for me to support someone who has.  
I will be in touch.

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## LouL

> Hi Lou, 
> I appreciate what you say and I don't mind giving a financial vote of support to someone who has taken the time to develop a simple and cost effective solution in lieu of the other unnecessarily complicated and costly options in the market place. The fact that you also recycle some common use packaging is also a bonus in my eyes. I could easily come up with something myself but the fact that I have never thought to do so in the past is good enough reason for me to support someone who has.  
> I will be in touch.

  Hello Danny, 
Thank you for your kind words. 
I'm sure a smile will come to your face and you'll have a little giggle to yourself when you look at the last page of the instructions and see how it works  :Smilie: 
I'll never make a fortune from my kits because I don't have the money to advertise but as I said its a hobby and it gives me something useful to do in my twilight years and great satisfaction whenever I get a favourable comment from a customer. 
Kind regards,
Lou

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## wonderplumb

I like it. :Smilie:

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## LouL

> I like it.

  If that was aimed at me, thank you  :Smilie:

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## VinceS

Just for the fun of it this is how these things work Levetator but that particular one will cost 5 X what Lou's does so why would you go there??? I have a $25 Bunnings dial gauge which is kinda OK once you mark the mm depth on the tank and mark the face so it is clear where 100% is (having carefully calibrated zero to be when the town change-over cuts in). But I have to stand about 2m away to really know what the level is although I can guess pretty good from 5m. That might sound pretty good but honestly, I'd rather support the old fella and have Lou's gizmo - and I couldn't be bothered to make my own! But I want to get round to the second tank installation (it is a bladder) before I think about exactly what I really want, and it might be "a special". These tanks are under the house, and making it so I can see the level from inside the adjacent garage is a pretty appealing idea so I want all the hardware in place before getting into "the small stuff"!

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