# Forum Home Renovation Tools & Products  my grinder blade is stuck

## phild01

Hi
I feel silly about this one but I need to remove a diamond blade from my old 9" Ryobi grinder.  With the blade locked, the wrench will not free the locking flange.  In fact I destroyed the Ryobi wrench breaking the pin off it and totally distorting the metal fork. Even with a seemingly stronger wrench, I cannot budge the flange no matter what I do.  Does anyone know of any tricks I can use to remove the flange?  I thought about heating it up but I think this might make it harder to remove.

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## Oldsaltoz

Try removing the guard and putting the blade in a vice and rotating the grinder. 
It should move a tiny bit with the extra leverage and perhaps allow removal. 
Good luck.   :Smilie:

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## phild01

> Try removing the guard and putting the blade in a vice and rotating the grinder. 
> It should move a tiny bit with the extra leverage and perhaps allow removal. 
> Good luck.

  I think the blade needs removal before I can get the guard off.  I did vice the blade somewhat.  I think your idea needs me to lock the blade pin while rotating the body of the grinder. I am dubious the grinder internals will withstand thae pressures required. This is so frustrating but maybe I should give it a go.

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## Uncle Bob

When I lose the spanner (too often  :Doh: ) I use Vice Grips on the nut.

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## cyclic

When looking down on the nut it turns anticlockwise to undo. 
If you can vice the blade(as opposed to holding in the lock pin on the grinder) give the removal tool a couple of gentle taps with a hammer. Remember, anticlockwise.

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## phild01

> When looking down on the nut it turns anticlockwise to undo. 
> If you can vice the blade(as opposed to holding in the lock pin on the grinder) give the removal tool a couple of gentle taps with a hammer. Remember, anticlockwise.

   I tried the hammer thing which is how I destroyed the original wrench.  There is no nut to undo.  The flange itself is the nut and quite thin.  The diameter of the flange is also quite large and too large for anything I have to get around it.

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## cyclic

> I tried the hammer thing which is how I destroyed the original wrench.  There is no nut to undo.  The flange itself is the nut and quite thin.  The diameter of the flange is also quite large and too large for anything I have to get around it.

  OK, vice the blade then use a nail punch and hammer in the holes where the tool goes.

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## phild01

> OK, vice the blade then use a nail punch and hammer in the holes where the tool goes.

  I will try this.  This should have occurred to me having used a similar method long ago using a cold chisel on a frozen nut. Thanks cyclic. 
Update: Nail Punch flew off into scrub, bought a new one and success.  Cyclic, you saved the day - thanks again.

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## chalkyt

I assume you have tried the "flooding with WD40" trick. Depending on the materials used in the head/gearbox, heating with a gas torch (expands the nut) will often free frozen nuts and the like. The trick here is not to nuke anything susceptible to heat although the disc itself should provide some (temporary??) heat shielding. 
Probably only worth a try if you are prepared to buy a new grinder of it all goes pearshaped!!!

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