# Forum Home Renovation Laundry  Wall mount a condensor dryer?? or just stick with the vented dryer.

## DaleBlack

Hi 
I have a older unrenovated laundry. One day it will be renovated but for now its 20 year old paint etc. Double Brick with tiles. 
I want a dryer to sit over my top load washing machine. I realise the most simple is a vented dryer that come with slots in the back at the top and bottom if you want to invert it for easier reach. They also weigh the least. 
Tradeoff is that they vent out humid air into your laundry which over time deystroys your paint, cabinetry etc. I do realise I could fit a vent pipe, which if i did that I would take it all the way up through the tiled roof, not just vent into the roof. Or I just open a window, but if its raining outside and near 100% humidity I assume the humid laundry air will not naturally flow out. 
To avoid the venting I thought maybe to go with the condensor dryer option which doesnt have this issue. At full reno time maybe Ill upgrade all the way to Miele Heat pump type but thats not now. 
But it appears all the retail shops say they cant be wall mounted and do not fit them with convenient slots in the back. They weigh around 40-50kgs I think. 
Is the only option to put it in some cabinetry? or obtain a pair of really strong Lshaped brackets, place a metal base on them and then place the condensor dryer on that?  even then just sitting there is pretty risky that it will slide off, maybe my bracket idea would require ridges. 
Cabinetry I dont want to bother with as that will come with a full reno. 
Any ideas?

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## OBBob

Can you vent out a wall? That's sometimes easier.

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## DaleBlack

> Can you vent out a wall? That's sometimes easier.

  Hi Bob, 
not in this setup, up through the tiles would be the go. I take it you recommend the vented dryer then? rather then customising some setup to fit the heavier condensor dryer?

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## OBBob

Up into the roof and out the eve? Can't content in the condenser option sorry.

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## phild01

I seldom use my dryer, ever noticed how they remove material (fluff) and thin the fabric.  But those times I have to, I find the wall fan does a pretty good job clearing the humid air.  Run the exhaust fan when using the dryer. :Smilie:   From that point of view I wouldn't waste money on a condensor type.

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## r3nov8or

Out of interest, where does the water go with condensor or heat pump types of dryers?

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## Whitey66

I had a Bendix (supposedly the best at the time) condenser dryer and it was a piece of crap. I've had an outside vented Simpson dryer for about 10 years since and it is much better.
If you fit the non outside vented type you really have to fit a ceiling or wall exhaust fan as if you don't, all the moisture that was in your clothes is now in the room.
Exhaust fans are great at removing the moisture, but also great at getting rid of heat from your house in winter.
If you decide to get the outside vented normal version and it's mounted on an external wall, you could just cut a hole through the wall and vent it out the back. Otherwise, like OBBob said above.

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## webtubbs

> Out of interest, where does the water go with condensor or heat pump types of dryers?

  Our LG condensor drier has a reservoir that needs to be emptied every cycle or 2, but can be plumbed so it goes down a drain. 
-------------------------------------------

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## DaleBlack

> Our LG condensor drier has a reservoir that needs to be emptied every cycle or 2, but can be plumbed so it goes down a drain. 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  Hi Webtubbs, is this condensor drier wall mounted? on the floor or in a cabinet?

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## webtubbs

> Hi Webtubbs, is this condensor drier wall mounted? on the floor or in a cabinet?

  No, we were told the same as you. Ours is on a low "bench" at the moment. 
Is your washer a front loader? Our drier came with a kit to sit on top of front loader washers.    -------------------------------------------

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## webtubbs

Scratch that, just saw yours is a top loader.  -------------------------------------------

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## chrisp

A couple of comments:
(a) vent it if you can. It speeds up the drying time quite noticeably, and saving energy too.
(b) I think that you will need to vent straight out or slightly downwards to allow any condensation to drain away. I wouldn't  vent upwards.

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## r3nov8or

> Our LG condensor drier has a reservoir that needs to be emptied every cycle or 2, but can be plumbed so it goes down a drain. 
> -------------------------------------------

  Cheers

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## David.Elliott

We moved to our first Condenser Drier, an ASKO and it's been the best... currently on the floor next to the front loader...would never have a vented one again...we don't use it a lot, but when we do it's usually winter when the warm condensation from a vented is most likely..
As above ours has either the tray or a small ruber hose...

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## Whitey66

> We moved to our first Condenser Drier, an ASKO and it's been the best... currently on the floor next to the front loader...would never have a vented one again...we don't use it a lot, but when we do it's usually winter when the warm condensation from a vented is most likely..
> As above ours has either the tray or a small ruber hose...

  Was your old one vented to outside?
How do you get warm condensation from a vented type dryer??
Or do you mean you used to have an non-vented one?

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## David.Elliott

> Was your old one vented to outside?  Nope,  and the laundry layout could not accomodate, 
> How do you get warm condensation from a vented type dryer??    Probably a mix of terms here... when I say vented I mean, not a condenser dryer.. 
> Or do you mean you used to have an non-vented one?

    Yep...

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## DaleBlack

I have bought a 6kg vented dryer. 
Time to wall mount, my substrate is double brick. 
How far in should i go?  
unit would weigh about 35kg packed ie with cardboard. capacity is 6kg but who knows, if we have a big lump of wet clothing, its raining outside and the mob wants dry school clothes who knows how much is shoved in. 
Maybe call it 40kg. 
I was thinking the orange ramset plugs, 10 x 80mm long, hold 30kg each ? or I could go with four but I need to see the brackets in my hand to see if i could use 4.
example here (longer than 80mm though)  https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-1...-pack_p2260102  
Not sure if the brick is hollow or solid, many parts of the house its solid brick. If I only went 50mm in, Iam worried the spinning motion over time might walk it off the wall. 
Any suggestions?

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## Whitey66

I'd suggest marking out and drilling the holes first so you know what you're dealing with, i'd go a minimum of 100 mm depth with the holes but the longer the better.
I wouldn't use the Ramplugs you linked for this application, if the bricks are crumbly they will fail.
Companies like Ramset make chemical systems to suit either solid or hollow bricks, if you're unsure what to use then give them a call rather than listening to the staff at Bunnings.
Some staff are very good and know what they are talking about but it's a lottery.
If it has flat brackets that sit flush to the wall you could also glue these down with something from the Sika range for added security.

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## DaleBlack

Hi W66 
This is the parts that come with the dryer   
So it looks like two holes per bracket which i may have to drill out depending on their size. 
Chemset would be the ultimate wouldnt it? as below?   
but i am wondering if that overkill. Nylon sleeves will come out you think? what about the Ankascrews  Ramset Australia

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## phild01

I think you will get a better idea once you start drilling.

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## Whitey66

It won't be overkill if you do it another way and doesn't work  :Smilie:  .
Ankascrews and nylon sleeves are dependent on the brick material which is an unknown quantity at the moment.
Like I said before, probably best to drill then work out what you need.
If the bricks are good enough you may get away with the Achascrews or Ramplugs.
If they are hollow type you can use something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vboiZJHzI0

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## DaleBlack

> It won't be overkill if you do it another way and doesn't work  .
> Ankascrews and nylon sleeves are dependent on the brick material which is an unknown quantity at the moment.
> Like I said before, probably best to drill then work out what you need.
> If the bricks are good enough you may get away with the Achascrews or Ramplugs.
> If they are hollow type you can use something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vboiZJHzI0

   
above image shows the 2 hole bracket and the 6mm diammeter and 33mm length the retailer provides. The nylon plugs, substrate dependent are what I intend to use if the wall is solid brick. I also already have some.
That videp of the chemset stuff is cool for cored bricks.   
I can go ahead and drill 10mm holes I suppose as that suits the nylong plug, suits Chemset which asks for 12mm hole for a M8 threaded rod.
Only the medium duty Anka Screws have a 5mm hole that then jumps to 16. 
above is my other dilema, if i trace up from the taps which are chased into the wall as its not a cavity wall I was worried that directly above (red arrow) i would drill into the copper pipes.
I intened as per the image to drill just off to the right of the red line. Whats confusing though is upon removing roof tiles, I see the image above on the left which has the single cavity wall but no pipes popping up? If they were chased would they pop up here?

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## Whitey66

They might be running off the pipes for the sink taps.
You could use a wall detector that can find metal pipes to see exactly where they go before drilling anything.

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## DaleBlack

> They might be running off the pipes for the sink taps.
> You could use a wall detector that can find metal pipes to see exactly where they go before drilling anything.

  Hi, most of the wall detectors in Bunnings at least up to $200, none works for brick walls apparently, only gyprock. Kennards had some Hilti PSA100 a radar of some sort for hire at $150 per day. 
I went in the roof as you saw in the previous post and couldnt find any pipes coming straight up. I since found the pipes must connect to the sink pipes which i can just see through the outside render. 
Have drilled the first hole, 10mm at 80mm in. No water so should be good on that issue. 
see below 
 xx cant upload image! for some reason at present    
drill suddenly fell forward as such once, so it seems I have at least one core to deal with. Image is from a phone and them magnified on the computer, couldnt do much better really. 
So the ultimate solution would be the Chemset Anchor Stud? 
M8 (so i need to dril out the F&P brackets from 6mm), hole size is 10mm, drill depth 80mm with stud at 110mm long. This protrudes about 30mm which should work with the bracket, worse case I assume I can put the nut on and then angle grind off some length with a very fine metal cutting disc (try not to wreck the remaining thread).  Ramset Australia 
But i see i will then need to separately purchase the Sieve  Ramset Australia 
which for M8 is only 64mm long but requires a 12mm hole drilled. 
Or I stick with my 4 x Nylon Ram Plug, 10 x 80mm - though maybe not as safe. Seems alot better though than F&P supplying those 30mm long screws in their pack or the Handycrew.com mob who said theyll just use green sleeves and 5mm screws.

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## Whitey66

Those instructions you posted were for mounting to a timber stud or timber slat, that's what the included screws would be designed for and not mounting to bricks.
If you really want to use the Ram plugs you could try squirting some high strength liquid nails or Sika into the holes before fitting the ram plugs then letting the glue set before applying any weight.
You could also add some Sika to the flat side of the brackets to glue them to the wall, this would help with the overall strength and prevent any movement which could loosen the plugs over time. 
The weight would be mostly pushing downwards, not outwards so it might be ok.
Bolt it all up in position then pull down on it with some of your body weight to make sure it's secure.
I suppose if you were really worried about it you could add some safety chains with separate anchor points.
Just make sure you allow enough room to open the washing machine lid fully  :Smilie:  .

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## DaleBlack

here is the hole btw, if you open it larger or zoom in you can see better into the hole though its not a very clear image. 
ill come back on the other points

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## DaleBlack

Hi W66 
Sika do you mean this product  https://www.bunnings.com.au/sikaflex...esive_p1218080 
Sika® Anchorfix 1 ?   

> I suppose if you were really worried about it you could add some safety chains with separate anchor points.

  I was thinking of that, I did that with my 900mm oven. Though there is only small screws all over the unit. Or I could also put L Shaped white brackets at the bottom of it as well. Getting ugly though with that.

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## Whitey66

Yep, that's the stuff.

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## DaleBlack

Hi 
I drilled the other 3 spots, all solid brick by luck so I am using the Ramplugs 10x80mm deep. I will also drill in the centre up high another ramplug maybe with a eyebolt screw and then run a chain or 3.2mm wire I already have over to the unit and figure out how to affix one point or two to the machine as a safety point. see below i could run the wire around those two brackets

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## OBBob

I haven't read the whole thread but look at Ankascrews over ramplugs.

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## phild01

I am wondering about the chain!

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## commodorenut

I was faced with a similar dilemma at my old house.  Knowing the cold pipes & hot pipes are almost invariably chased in close to each other, I ran the washing machine hot tap (via the hose) back into the tub for about 5 minutes, and using an infrared thermometer, was able to trace the direction it travelled along the wall.  You could probably tell by hand if you ran the water longer and gave it a chance to heat up more. 
My concern was where the wiring ran down the wall to the powerpoint - but that was easy to find with a volt-stick and a decent load running off the power point (a 2400W fan heater works well).  
Because the wires ran right near where the RH bracket needed to go, I ended up anchoring a 4x2 along the wall (using 4 brick anchors).  At the bottom I used liquid nails to stick an offcut on the wall where the bottom stand-off goes, so it sat level.

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## DaleBlack

Whitey66 you put the scares in me, so I did put in a anchor chain.
Note the standard brackets still have 4 x 10mm x 80mm long ramset orange plugs holding them.    
I used a 10mm 60mm long Ankascrew Werks thread for the angle. Seems impossible to pull out however I was a little perturbed that it ratcheted into the hole a little too easily, i expected to have to use my drill driver.
I had the masonary 10mm bit which is old, on hammer function and only drilled forward ie. I didnt pull it back out whilst still holding down the trigger. But maybe somehow the hole was slightly larger then 10mm so the threads on the Anka didnt have to fight very hard to grip in. 
The other point of course is the weak point being where i have screwed in the those angles into the dryer using the screws that are already there. Given there is no anchor points or handy thread jutting out anywhere on this dryer I am not sure what else I could do, too risky to start guessing where to drill into the unit. I could maybe utilise several other screw points. Or maybe change the chain over to the official anchors already sitting on the standard brackets but I dont think i should drill through them for a M6 bolt.

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