# Forum Home Renovation Lighting  Choosing bathroom lighting

## shauck

I am choosing main lighting for the bathroom. In ceiling,  so not near any water. It's a raked ceiling and skillion roof.  
The ceiling joists are below the rafters so there is 10mm plasterboard + 90mm joists +90mm rafters + 35-45mm roof battens.  
Sisalation is under the batten so 180-190mm to sisalation. I can cut a hole in that but it's best not to.  
Haven't put in insulation yet but was going to put it between ceiling joists so pretty much at the level of the light fitting. 
I'm finding a lot of bathroom lighting to be pretty fugly.  
I'm thinking about a single downlight, something like the one in link below. 
It seems larger than most so may look ok/give enough light as a single light? What you reckon? 
How much clear space above and/or around it?  
What other factors of safety are involved?  
Is this a suitable light?  Sunny Lighting Byron Recessed Trim | Wayfair Australia    
As another possibility, this one seems suitable for bathroom, being transformer in ceiling type.  VIBE Lighting Low Voltage MR16 Triple Modular Downlight in White | Wayfair Australia   
I think I like this one best so far. This one being directional could be  good because of raked ceiling. Also It's rated CA. That mean I can  insulate around it?   Prolux Combo Double Square Gimble Recessed Downlight | Wayfair Australia  
Can either of the above two run off existing wiring for light or does the wiring need to be different? That would make them less attractive.  
Also same questions about safety/clearance for the two above lights. 
PS. Not touching wiring myself just don't want to hang ceiling plaster and regret not having access for some reason.  
Cheers guys. Any and all assistance much appreciated.

----------


## toooldforthis

a gimble will give you better chance of angling the light back to vertical, important with the sloping ceiling. 
think there are stds re no insulation around light fitting inside roof space; there are 'boxes' you can buy to shield fitting from insulation.  
not sure on the dimensions of your bathroom, but if having a single light fitting you probably want to position it directly over the sink otherwise you will be throwing shadows.
if you have multiple downlight fittings the globes come with their angle of light throw (it varies), so if two fittings you want some overlap of the light before it hits the sink.    
don't mean to be sexist, but it worth consulting a woman re lighting/mirrors in a bathroom for applying makeup etc.

----------


## Craigoss

My bathroom is 4.2 x 2.4 x 2.7 and I ended up going a little overboard on the lights. I have 4 x downlights, 3 x lights over the sinks for the lady + chandelier over the bath. 
The only lighting this sized bathroom needed was the 3 x sink lights (42W equivalent each), which lights the whole room. I believe the women need the lights placed at face height to provide even distribution of light over their face. But you see a lot of bathrooms with the lights above the mirrors.

----------


## Renopa

During the recent bathroom reno I was looking for lights to suit a high, raked ceiling and while I like downlights, space/wiring/insulation/etc was going to be a pita and would have involved removing roof tiles, then being a high roof, scaff/harnesses/etc came into the equation and would have been an expensive process,  then I found these lights at Bunnings and had the sparky wire them to the previous light outlets, a much simpler job.  The 3 x track is on the main ceiling, then there are 2 x singles on two of the walls.   
<http://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-240v-3x-chrome-blairhill-long-cylinder-spotlight_p7071042> 
<http://www.bunnings.com.au/light-spotlight-240v-arlec-1lt-chr-blairhill-sl0440_p7071040> 
These have worked well here because they are so flexible and light can be directed anywhere....one of the single lights has been angled to bounce off the ceiling which is great for nightime trips to the bathroom, the other single will be angled towards the vanity area along with the triple track where two of those are also directed towards the vanity.   
I know they are not what you had in mind but wondering if something similar might suit your situation, mainly because you don't have the back of the downlight in such a confined space creating unwanted heat.  This was my biggest concern. 
Not sure if this helps?   :Biggrin:

----------


## shauck

Thanks for replies guys.   

> a gimble will give you better chance of angling the light back to vertical, important with the sloping ceiling. 
> think there are stds re no insulation around light fitting inside roof space; there are 'boxes' you can buy to shield fitting from insulation.  
> not sure on the dimensions of your bathroom, but if having a single light fitting you probably want to position it directly over the sink otherwise you will be throwing shadows.
> if you have multiple downlight fittings the globes come with their angle of light throw (it varies), so if two fittings you want some overlap of the light before it hits the sink. 
> don't mean to be sexist, but it worth consulting a woman re lighting/mirrors in a bathroom for applying makeup etc.

  Yeah, I thought the third one was good because it is directional.  We will have lighting over the mirror. I just haven't seen it yet. My partner bought it yesterday while away visiting family for easter. I hope it's IP rated or it's going to have to go back. I did tell her to get something specifically for bathroom or outdoor if suitable. So, the main light is just that. By the way, we are both women. He he.    

> My bathroom is 4.2 x 2.4 x 2.7 and I ended up going a little overboard on the lights. I have 4 x downlights, 3 x lights over the sinks for the lady + chandelier over the bath. 
> The only lighting this sized bathroom needed was the 3 x sink lights (42W equivalent each), which lights the whole room. I believe the women need the lights placed at face height to provide even distribution of light over their face. But you see a lot of bathrooms with the lights above the mirrors.

  Very different from ours but nice bathroom. Think burnished concrete floor, glass panel open shower, long (2350mm) oak veneer cabinet with white doors wall hung. Large 300x600 creamy brown travertine (porcelain) tiles. really simple, modern look. Sorted on the mirror light (as explained above). I don't wear makeup but my partner does so made sure there was wiring put in for that.    

> During the recent bathroom reno I was looking for lights to suit a high, raked ceiling and while I like downlights, space/wiring/insulation/etc was going to be a pita and would have involved removing roof tiles, then being a high roof, scaff/harnesses/etc came into the equation and would have been an expensive process,  then I found these lights at Bunnings and had the sparky wire them to the previous light outlets, a much simpler job.  The 3 x track is on the main ceiling, then there are 2 x singles on two of the walls.   
> <http://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-240v-3x-chrome-blairhill-long-cylinder-spotlight_p7071042> 
> <http://www.bunnings.com.au/light-spotlight-240v-arlec-1lt-chr-blairhill-sl0440_p7071040> 
> These have worked well here because they are so flexible and light can be directed anywhere....one of the single lights has been angled to bounce off the ceiling which is great for nightime trips to the bathroom, the other single will be angled towards the vanity area along with the triple track where two of those are also directed towards the vanity.   
> I know they are not what you had in mind but wondering if something similar might suit your situation, mainly because you don't have the back of the downlight in such a confined space creating unwanted heat.  This was my biggest concern. 
> Not sure if this helps?

  I've already gotten a no on my third option from Tanya. Arrgh! It was my main contender. Your lighting options would also get a big no from her. It 's the chrome. Not me tho, I like them well enough. I think when I explain all the ins and outs (that I know so far), she'll have to come to some sort of compromise as I am finding. 
So I guess I need an electricians opinion on the choices and questions in first post and a bit of info on what to search for if something different (and gets approved by Tanya) will work better. Although Tanya ruled out option three, If I can change her mind somehow, I'm pretty sure it's built in protective casing and it's rating CA means I can put insulation in around it. Is that so? And can it use existing wiring for lighting?

----------


## Renopa

Oh no....not chrome!!!   Better not tell Tanya I've got them here...as well as chrome door furniture and chrome taps too!!  LOL   It would be a strange world if we all like the same things.   
Actually I have to admit to not liking stainless steel fridge/oven/etc, mine are white to blend with the kitchen cabinets rather than be a feature.  In saying that though, the outdoor kitchen has full stainless steel cabinets, more for suitability than anything else.  I also got them at a good price on Gumtree.    
Sometimes practicality has to win over personal taste....often there is space for compromise somewhere in the middle!   
Good luck, hope you get it sorted.   :Biggrin:

----------


## shauck

Totally agree Renopa. Boring world and very long queues if we all liked the same thing.  
I've pretty much convinced her of the option (link) below   Prolux Combo Double Square Gimble Recessed Downlight | Wayfair Australia 
I think I'll post this in the electrical forum for any techie answers to some of the questions.

----------


## Renopa

That's nice, and simple!  Fingers crossed it gets past the line!   :Biggrin:

----------


## shauck

Now the manufacturer is telling me it's not suitable because of the gimble and how it's not sealed but I thought it didn't matter for a ceiling light in the middle of the bathroom as it wasn't in any of the zones that have more restrictions. I thought that it only had to be IP20 meaning that it was rust proof. Can anyone shed some light (sorry for pun) on this?  
Also, I'm still unsure if it's depth will mean that it doesn't have enough clearance above and to the side unless the closed box it is in means it doesn't need the clearance. The closed abutted bit, still don't have clarification on that for Australian standards. This comes from Welcome to BRANZ Is it the same here?  If  you  see  a  gap  between  the  insulation  and  the  fitting,  and  want  to  improve  your  thermal efficiency, BRANZ recommends using  the correct fitting type. To allow close-butted  insulation, the light fitting must be rated as  either  category  Closed  and  Abutted  (CA)  or  Restricted  and  Abutted  (RA)    refer  to  the  manufacturers installation instruction sheet. Typically use only CA fittings above moist  areas like kitchens, laundries and bathrooms.

----------


## shauck

Ok. I've given up trying to get info on the favoured light. Not getting email response from company. Anyway, I just went with a light that was recommended in another post by Metrix. LEDlux Infinity Mini White Downlight Kit in Warm White It's not aesthetically what I want but it fits most of my requirements. shallow ceiling space, bathoom compliant, white, should give good light for what it is. It's been an interesting experience and I've learnt a few things along the way. Most of the good lookin' stuff is halogen (my opinion of course) and fit for bigger ceiling space unless you can wade through all the heat shield stuff and try not to get that wrong too. I would have had an easier time if websites provided links to installation instructions. They tell you all sorts of info but not always the stuff you need to know.  
Cheers all, Su.

----------


## shauck

Just thought I'd update. Have had the light installed, as per the link in previous post. Very happy with it. Was a bit concerned that one would not be enough but it's absolutely fine. Yay.

----------

