# Forum Home Renovation Lighting  Distance between halogen downlight heat can and insulation.

## HomeReno

Hi, 
Now that we are in right in the thick of the cold weather in Melbourne I have noticed a over the last several weeks that we have had severe condensation forming on our ceiling and only around the downlight fixtures. Yesterday I had some time to go investigate and have gone up on top of the roof, removed some tiles and noticed that there are massive amount of insulation missing from the areas around the downlights. I have lost contact with Electrician who installed these downlights and also would have moved the insulation batts. My question is; I have the aluminum heat covers over the top of the downlight fitting and I wondering how close I can place the insulation to the heat can without posing a threat.  
Also I have the electronic transformers running each of these downlight and from what I am told they do not heat up significantly and are fine to be placed on top of the insulation batts.  
Can someone please confirm the above and any additional advise anyone can post would be greatly appreciated. 
Thanks
HR.

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## Random Username

Unless there's an approval number on the heat guard (and you can track down its specifications so you know how it can be used), you basically need 200mm all around a halogen light.  If there's nothin' on the heat guard telling you minimum clearances, just toss it in the trash as that's what it is!  http://www.dfes.wa.gov.au/safetyinfo...ectricians.pdf

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## grantbudd

can you not retro fit LED downlights into the existing points? I have seen a globe that fits standard units. I have also seen the result of insulation coming into contact with the light units and its not worth risking your life.... Go LED less current draw and lower power bills and less heat by a huge %. 
Maybe you can use the existing drivers and slowly replace all the units over time?? That way you know for sure its done well and you can start saving money in running costs. I have a few LED's as features in a kitchen bulkhead which we use a lot and they are only 1 watt and produce enough light. A room light LED is 12-15 watts from memory. We went LED for the heat reasons as living in QLD during summer its like having mini heaters on. 
With LED you can power an entire house for the same as a few standard halogen lights....

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## FrodoOne

It is not clear if the lamps involved are halogen but I will assume that they are. 
The best option would be to replace them with LEDs, but this would (probably) mean that it would be necessary to replace the Electronic Power Supply associated with them - if the supply is electronic and not actually a real transformer. (Often, Power Supplies designed for halogen lamps do not work satisfactorily with LEDs.) 
The regulations still demand a spacing between the (heat generating ) LED and the ceiling insulation.  You can buy appropriate "Heat Guards" from DIY stores. 
I note that there are Osram branded LEDs and associated Power supplies available - from Bunnings.  While the lamps sell at up to $30, the Power supplies sell at only $8 
If your lamp fittings have been installed with Plug and Socket connections - as any decent electrician should have  done - and you can access them from above (as you have stated) there should be no reason why you could not unplug the old fittings and replace them with the combined LED lamps and Power Supplies available from the DIY stores, since no tool would be required.  Otherwise, the services of an electrician would be needed.

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