# Forum Home Renovation Cladding  Miter Joints in scyon Linea

## Gambier

Hi guys, 
im quoting a job for an architect and he is keen on mitering the external corners of the hardie scyon linea weatherboards, as he has seen it advertised that way. 
My problem is, that stuff is rubbish to cut. It fluffs up and tears and you cant get a neat clean cut. Maybe if you turned it over and cut it from the back. But that might make mitreing to exact length difficult. If it has to be filled to achieve a crisp corner its only going to crack over time.  
Does anyone have any experience with this? 
Cheers

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## OBBob

Hi Gambier ... what are you planning to cut it with? Can you cut it roughly to length from the back as you suggested ... then use the straight but joint at the other end of the board to fine tune to fit?

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## Bloss

The compound mitre joins are one of the methods in the installation guide (see p.4), but why would you do that when there are better looking and easier way to finish the corners using the corner soakers and internal corner holds that also need no sealants.  http://www.scyon.com.au/products/dow...March+2013.pdf

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## Gambier

I know the theory behind mitering the corners. But i also know what this stuff is like to work with. Cutting with the hardie blades designed for cutting this material. Theres no way to cut it from the top and get a near cut. I could cut it from the back but one wall is 12m long. Meaning ill need 3 lengths to get it. So it would have to be a super accurate cut from the back and from the tongue and groove joint. And even then i doubt it will come out a crisp miter.  
The architect has asked for mitered corners. Its his personal house.

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## Gaza

Make up a sample panel for discussion 
Easy to talk when can see issur  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## OBBob

> Its his personal house.

  eek... probably should make sure you have a bit if contingency on that job.

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## ringtail

> The architect has asked for mitered corners. Its his personal house.

  Get him to do it then. Bloody architects  :Biggrin:  :Tongue:

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## METRIX

> The architect has asked for mitered corners. Its his personal house.

  Run away NOW, and don't look back, he will never be happy with anything you do  :No:

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## Bloss

> Run away NOW, and don't look back, he will never be happy with anything you do

   :What he said:  This is a compound cut not a straight mitre (as the weatherboards are at an angle for the overlap as well as meeting at the external and any internal corners) so he is really asking you to charge him more and do a job that has a high chance of looking crap. The reason why they provide all the special components to make it a cladding system is because that gives better and more professional result - guaranteed if you follow the instructions.  
I guess they can make the system fool proof, but there are limits - they can't make the system architect proof . . .  :Eek:

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## Dimi

I know the product you're writing about. Fortunately don't have much experience with it. Always wear your mask. Each cut will make a cloud of silica dust! With regard to mitering external corners this material will shrink. Also the seemingly amazing guarantees made and warranty on this product are all underwritten cleverly to get away with the job looking shabby in a few years just like normal weatherboards. Can beat Bricks and mortar I reckon  :Smilie:

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## Oldsaltoz

I'm probably wrong here, but this blue board stuff is designed for external use, I suspect cutting it would mean some form of sealing again to prevent moisture getting in. 
Would be correct? 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## Bloss

This material does not shrink, twist, expand crack etc, cut or not (when installed correctly of course) - one of its advantages is its long term stability. The installation guide is comprehensive (although of course will be read by males only when they have tried to install and come up against a problem) and says that sealant is to be used on mitred ends and at other joins - but that is not to protect the product, but to prevent water ingress to the sub-frame etc under it. Use of the bespoke fittings - joiners etc offer protection without using sealants although some require sealants too. Scyon is not 'blue board' - but another fibre reinforced cement sheet - less dense than blue board.

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## OBBob

> This material does not shrink, twist, expand crack etc, cut or not (when installed correctly of course) - one of its advantages is its long term stability.

  Agreed ... the challenge I see (and I may be way off) is that couldn't you possibly expect that he timber frame is not as stable and thus it could cause the corner joints to open up at some stage?

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## Dimi

If you read the fine print on the suppliers own website they actually state them selves that the product does shrink. Being a male hasn't ever seemed to be an issue for me. Everything will expand and contract from the change of moisture content retained by the way which I'm sure all of us know here. I would suggest going on the manufacturers/suppliers website and read what the warranty covers and under what condition. I'm not saying it's not a good product. Mitering doesn't seem to be an issue but more a real pain in the bum.

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## Bloss

> Being a male hasn't ever seemed to be an issue for me.

  That was a joke Joyce  :Wink: . . . a long standing one on this forum . . . 
My original reply included the link to the website & instructions. The get out line is 'when installed according to instructions' - the main point is that using the component system rather than the mitre hand cuts will give a better finish, faster and in fact cheaper too.  
And yes mitering is a PITA choice which is why the OP was trying to get a work around - the consensus seems to be don't work for an architect . . .  :Redface:

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## ringtail

> - the consensus seems to be don't work for an architect . . .

  Nailed it.

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## Gambier

Yes i have worked with this product before. Dread it every time. Im pretty sure mitreing the corners is just not going to happen. 
This job is only a carport so fingers cross this guy doesnt get too architecty on me. haha. 
hanks for the help guys. Pretty much confirmed what i already thought.

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## ringtail

> This job is only a carport so fingers cross this guy doesnt get too architecty on me. haha. 
> .

  Bwahahahahaha, an architects carport obviously

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## OBBob

Isn't a carport unclad by definition?  
Anyway, I think the suggestion above of taking a sample so you can physically demonstrate your concerns and discuss alternatives is a good one.

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