# Forum More Stuff Go to Whoa!  Second storey rear extension/rebuild/conversion.

## barney118

I have been waiting for the right time to put some progress down on the kitchen reno. Its been a slog, doing 5 different reno jobs  on the same house and have to stop one till I get to a point then go onto  the other. Now the plumbing is nearly complete I can start thinking about comming back to the kitchen! The plumbing has also created a new job of a bsecond bathroom and laundry!
Working hard on getting my plans into council (so bloody much info needed today !) but nearly there.
Here are the plans and some photos, still working out the internal stairs.

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## barney118

And the plumbing, moved the gully to outside the house walls (so can build a room over the old one.) Love that digging into clay, buried aspestos ontop of the old sewer. The steel pipe lined with concrete was an old stormwater (now redundant went under and across the house) I am working on new stormwater. Also I am leaving the foundation exposed with gravel and building a timber ramp for access. Plumbing is for the new laundry/2nd bathroom. This is the sharkbite fittings.
Note where the pipework is against the wall I found 2 2" steel pipes one protrudes into the new laundry about 12" and just sits under the slab the other has rubble ontop of it got no idea where i goes. So I shoved an ag pipe into one of them so if any water does get in there it can get out! Previously it went straight into clay and water actually backed up into the floor.

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## barney118

Also had to redo some structural work for future building and to support the kitchen floor as it was held up with railway lines. gee they are bloody heavy cut a 5.4 m in 3 sections. Then I can hopefully move stuff around downstairs and do some concreting.

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## jago

Looking good its very similar to what I'm doing and size. 
I get your kitchen now I've seen your pictures ...oh and the oven is in. Still go with the kitchen blcok on wheels approach.  
Why did you remove the steels?   :Biggrin:

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## barney118

This is more of a go to whoa for the rest of the house! Cant change the titile though ! 
Why did you remove the steels?   :Biggrin: [/quote] 
A few reasons, I need to put up ceiling joists to start with and if you look closely ( I will have to check the pics i supplied) all of the bearers under the kitchen floor only spaned 3/4 of the 3m distance and were supported by brick piers in the middle of the room.
The steel would have probaly been ok but the bottom flange was very corroded, the top was solid 30mm. I didnt want to cover them up to have future problems. Also on the brickwork on the outside the corrosion has signs of cracking the bricks. 
Its a freestanding 900mm oven, didnt know where else to put it.

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## barney118

To complete the picture, I am taking out the wall downstairs which used to support the floor and roof, Ithe roof is now supported by girder trusses and the floor is supported by this 400mm LVL and I can open up the room downstairs. The acro is not doing much as I am under pinning where the post is, putting in a pier.
I feel as though I am going around in circles, one man band, now have to clean the mess up from the plumbing and install new stormwater.

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## jago

I'm a one man band that feels like I'm going knowhere fast sometimes. But its clear you're making headway you will soon have the wetroom plumbed to the new kitchen and will be sinking a few coldies :Wink 1:

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## barney118

:Biggrin: Thanks moderator for a change to the title.

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## barney118

Now I have changed the title I should add some more pics, on the dining area, and preparation for the slab in the rumpus.
  Dont worry Jago, making a head start on the coldies. :Biggrin:

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## jago

See there you go.... boasting with pictures of windows,nice view. :Sneaktongue:

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## barney118

Council plans finally in, Need to get some concreting  done so I can build frames under the kitchen to continue to support the floor with new LVL bearers and enclosing off the deck will be first jobs on the list.

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## barney118

Slight change to plans, again ! looking at building a double garage down the back sometime in the future (on the plans, still waiting for council), but keeping the inlaws happy (to park the caravan), I folded on doing this first but theres a catch. I will build a parking spot so I still have access up the rear driveway for the concrete truck, brick delivery, so I can carry on building the house.

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## barney118

Plans sorted out needed to move rear garage back 3m, classed as  "secondary access" you get peanlised if you block has 2 street access or  lane way. Still procrastinating over some details, kitchen  plans/designs. stair designs, costs of them all ! 
Then I can remove sections of the old deck/boards and joists, put down  new 240x45 hyjoists (cause I can) will help with stiffness I hope rather  than the 240x45 F7 treated that is currently there. depending on stair  design too as the joist dont span to where the trimmer will go so it  would look like patchwork with the floorboards.
Talk about design dilema, there is some positives too If I remove the  joists I can put down T&G to give some thermal/sound proofing, small  mods for bearers underneath. I can make a straight cut across upper  floor from stair trimmer to sqaure off floorboards as they will change  direction to the current deck joists. 
The devil lies in the detail !
So need some help firstly on stairs (other thread in stairs) which helps  with what need to do with floor joists etc ( will post in structural).

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## barney118

SOme more info on the complexity of the job at hand, I have decided on the stair option to suit as best the rooms that will become. Attached are the dwgs of the layout of under the floor which will become rooms, note how floor bearers didnt span all the way and were supported by rail lines. 
Look at the second dwg and you can see I have removed some of these and a few to go still. If you havent seen my post in the sub floor section here they are.

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## barney118

Looking closer to some certainty around the design, (cost notheing at the moment to do this, so spend the time and do it right, so many issues to consider, but a fun learning process on the way.
Some more posts added in sub forum, looking at the job at hand, its no longer a renvation, its a bloody nightmare :Annoyed: .
I dont mind spending a few bucks on the right tools etc. 
Anyway some more dwgs to look at.
I didnt think putting a stairway in would make life so hard!, good thing under the house is almost a clean skin, it would be cheaper and eaiser if it were. not having to demolish and retrofit while the house is still standing.
Decided to move the bearer to the stairway width, matches in with the upper floorboards (no stagger in 90 deg boards). 
Ordered the joists and T+G arrives next week.
Finalise how to support the bearers (long term) can sit on single leaf brickwork while put in foundations or convert brickwork to piers.
The objective is to remove the single leaf bricks, the entire back wall (its only carring floor load) the new LVL's will do the job (and I have them.) still could be interested in steel beam (same problem supporting ends and mid span). 
Favouring a centre pier to hold 2 x LVL's, the question is what size? 230x230 or 350x350?, I could leave a 1.5m section x upto 350 to divide the areas ( havent decided on the design yet of the lower storey if I put up walls to seperate rooms or not) or do i come down the stairs and open up into a l shape room?
one final problem where the stairs lead into the rumpus there still is existing toilet pipe (I could have a 3 way toliet in the middle of the rooms?)

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## barney118

the job is as big as ben hur, its not just the rooms addition so I may as well keep it all in the one place as it looks like Ill be here for the next few years sharing info. thanks Jago and co to date. I am a bit worried Bloss hasnt chipped (active) lately as I respect your views.
there is more than meets the eye on going for a reno.

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## barney118

still in plan mode so I dont stuff up for future. here it is entry to house is on upper floor, slope to rear of block ~8m, existing under house supported by single leaf bricks which dont line up from outer wall to outer wall for new beams, footings unkonwn possibly upto 300-400mm deep have strip footing as raised in sections, infilled inside no DPC or termimesh, ant capping up the sh@t no wier holes in brickwork, have plenty of clearace underneath 2672m (once I put down 100mm infill slab), no plastic against brickwork where backfilled, railway lines (corroded) supporting floor bearers, asbestos lagging around existing copper pipes, kitchen unusable but house made of ironwood that the pasloe refuses to penetrate, and concrete that kills drill bits, wife and kids drive you mad(great idea putting in the $40k pool I'll look after the kids while you work), where do you start? have that many bits on the go dont know which is most important

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## andy the pm

I would be talking to a draftsperson, they do this sort of theing everyday so would be able to help you come up with a good workable plan and prioritize your workload.

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## barney118

drafty/builder or engineer?

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## jago

I went with an engineer but wouldnt again just the draftsman for consent and builder for advice

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## barney118

What does the drafty do here? I was thinking they would only comply to council regs eg boundary clearance etc and builder to BCA?

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## barney118

Thanks for thr PM Jago, I have been trying to skimp out or use existing foundations (sort of) What I have kept in the back of the mind is for a 9m raft slab I need a internal beam at max 4m so this should have been driving me towards whats needed down the bottom,
I have dug the exisitng footings in the middle,and each end and it lloks like (just like his plan said 1985) a footing 400mm deep (i measure 380mm) so now I can talk turkey with the engineer, It makes sense to put a a steel midway since I have access, also lay down half the slab at 3.4m (midpoint of rumpus) use LVL on other ends.
Question now is do I allow for fixing 45-90mm timber beam ontop of steel beam or direct to beam?

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## barney118

I was thrown off with my west footing only 200mm deep but when I dug a little further it increases to 380mm under the pier.

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## barney118

I stopped trying to solve the puzzle and figure I have to do some exavation for my outer wall around my centre pier and stop the guessing game, It looks like the foundations of the house (on detailed inpection) were poured as a strip foundation and piers errected ontop, with say 400mm depth under pier locations and the remainder at 200mm thick in sections, why he would have chosen to put 200mm under the corner of the house (west side) I dont know but a pier is located 300mm from it a 90 deg across the old back wall, this corner would have been supporting the main roof on the opposite 2 corners (above the existing garage the footings are both 400 deep and raised 90mm above the rest of the footing only supporting a hip section of roof go figure.
I have spoken to the engineer who is comming onsite again who has assured me the original plan is good and will put in writing.

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## barney118

Lookout guys, here we go, appoval in the bag, materials ordered nd ready to go, now to create some sawdust and go berzerko.
No point in procrastinating too much, engineer seems to be happy with it all (need to do some check calcs etc, (wait 3 weeks please) (more of design my tie downs) Mr truss manufacturer says his design no prob with bugles connection to post(he is probaly right it withstood some fearce winds as it is open.) Today doesnt help with gale force winds expected, good thing I built some (infill walls for protection) I have had a close look at these, it looks like I havent used perforated sarking and I didnt use it on the other wall due to winds at the time.
Any help comments on rectification here will help, Is it a BCA requirement? Given I am now "extending" my kitchen wall (orginal building doesnt have it) They are not going to ask me to rip down exisitng and put it up? or will they).
so many things now running through my head on possible rework etc (my time is free) Do I have to show bracing into exsiting walls for the frame inspection?
Also I am trying to over engineer a few things. I have a top batten on top of an LVL screwed by bugles now the truss is tied to the batten by triples and straps. I still have access to the LVL on the inside, (might have to take some boards off outside anyway and rebuild) so I am going to strap the corners to the posts and strap the LVL to the studs where it meets the existing rafme work. Throw a couple of hoop strap across the walls as per BCA
 F@#rrrr out. 
reponsibility is on me anyway.
Here we go first job, take up half this deck remove window clean the place up (Safety first) get the kids and family out for a few days (banned) Me and trusty dad only one on site while I make a big hole. go check connections to existing walls to and rebuild.

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## barney118

Trying to convince myself a couple of things, one that the tie downs for the roof were adequate (according to the frame guys) from thier advice 
1. install a top plate above LVL to bring up to top plate height and bugle down into LVL, (issue 1 the triple grips on rafters are attached to this not the LVL, the speed brace and truss straps are, whats to say the wind wouldnt rip the top plate off or pick on one of the corner posts?) Job 1 put in straps over top plate in corners to LVL to post and leave some for the new top plate infill walls. job 2 do the same on opposite ends of LVL to stud wall that adjoins house while its all open. create the tie down point that will lead to foundation.

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## barney118

Doing a bit of reading understanding the build a bit better, I have  built an open deck (<1m above ground) supported by posts above  350x350 pier attached to  "deck bearers" with a verandah beam and  lintles, single span joists attached to the existing house corners to  carry the load of the roof trusses.
What wasnt known at the time was how to fix these to your house or if  your existing foundations could withstand this by removing the entire  rear wall. (ex roof held now by girder trusses, What is meant by TS1,TS2,TS3? Truncated something.
So they were "fixed" to the house from the bottom up by isolated piers  to bearers above a garage, and onto the unreiforced brickwork, does the  job and when built AS was sort of used.
fast forward a few years and start pulling things apart and find that  the 'fixing" to the house was not really up to scratch or could have  been done a lot better. Time to recify now.
A quiet day reading the stds, a couple of days pulling apart and time to stop and reflect on whats going on.
As a Mech eng (ass dip) I recall using civil stds designing I beams (big blur  :Drink Nl: , dont know how I passed).
I take it I treat the house now as a perimeter beam construction?
The place wouldnt have taken off given the amount of triple grips I used on the joists, the "angry grinder fix that".
I could do with some advice now on probaly pay to replace the F7 bearer for house with 300LVL's ( leave it for next build deck, but it has the tie down rod in it. I cant see why I couldnt take off the "100mm 10mm washer" I made out of lintle plate that is used for the tie down and extend it with a few welds 90 deg and affix 12mm coach screws.mmmmm
progress pics. Me checking the bearer level with the topcon RL100 2S (concreters come in handy for something) 30 minutes to set out the job.
Thinking now of "modifying the Lintles" in the wall design (take out the post and make it part of the wall, (got the access so may as well do it.) and removing the verandah beam, bit by bit and posts).
Any takers or suggestions. I have decided on the tie down will be near the single door as its above the pier/foundation) now to create the tie down from the top. truss rafters attached to top plate (triple grip JD5) , top plate attached to LVL by 14g type 17, LVL attached to existing house under top plate, put new bit of T2 framing cut existing end stud due to rotting and another stud to support, installed strap on outside of stud prior to fixing and looped over the top plate nailed into LVL/stud and even upper storey existing floor bearer, used .8g 30mm strap as per std. (I could change this, was thinking of using 1mm x 25mm builders strap, anyone shot 50mm nails through this stuff with a pasloe?

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## barney118

This is the view looking (from the hallway in middle of house to the new lounge room, the other is the view from that post (corner now of new house into the kitchen) wall and double doors not removed yet.

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## barney118

into kitchen

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## twinny

go check out some legoland sticks and bricks types going up at haywards bay or shell cove barney, it'll show you how much your over killing it  :Cry:

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## barney118

> go check out some legoland sticks and bricks types going up at haywards bay or shell cove barney, it'll show you how much your over killing it

  Yep I hear you.
The o'l F7 240x45 deck joists have done thier job quite well, there was one I needed to be changed due to a nice split, but now its becomming a house I'd hate to spend ~$2k on floor boards straight ontop of the F7 and then put a ceiling underneath and not be happy with the result. The 2x290x45 bearers holding up a lot better so will keep them (eventually they will become the top plate for the lower storey walls ! (bomb shelter)
The F7 was designed pretty close to its max span (Ok for A.S) but there would have been some deflection in it, given its the upper storey floor.
So for ~$3.5-4k new sub platform floor(inc LVL bearers T2), 90mm timbers on the web to fix to not 45mm to join boards.

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## twinny

where abouts in the 'gong are you barney? 
your house is very similar to mine, including the big slope block, i'm in west 'gong on the figgy border, how have you found council to deal with? have heard very mixed reports lately  :Cry:

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## barney118

I'm in Woonona, I know your area, you need to check council if you are in a Geo (rock) area I think they call it.
This is my second D/A for the same house, project changed along the way (as it does), council have changed the rules significanly, in regards to details etc for plans (AHD floor levels etc).
This time round I have found I'm just in a firezone/ fire hazard area, (on my fence line on council records, ( no where near the reno fill in another set of forms) my block also shows a natural courseway as well that was piped 30 odd years ago!, go to waterboard and get letter.
Just put on the D/A everthing you might want to do, i have a garage (dont know when I will build it.) 8 weeks to get the D/A approved, umpteen changes to plans to comply, when my D/A went to the assessing officer, he was really cool and I finally got the exact info he needed, A bit peed off as I have 2 street access and they made me put my garage back 3m from the rear boundary where I have rear access.

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## barney118

Finally bought another cable for the digital camera (still cant find the original one).
Progress, 
Have some friendly king parrots that have made themselves at home and come for thier daily feed.
Sub floor down/glued on I joist, end up using 50mm gal nails for the Pasloe framer.
Outside sealed up painted window just to seal the place up will install bifolds later when deck on as room second storey at the back.
Some bricks delivered to modifying subfloor (pier to hold up LVL) removal of single leaf brick.
Fising some ceiling plaster which got hairline crack with strong winds when it was an exposed deck, installing straps for tie down to studs, ( not sure if needed as struggling now room becomes ring beam design as it was a deck open supported by LVL's on posts, tie down to house wasnt done right (now corrected) whats the requirement for infill walls?

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## jago

Looking good Barney it must be good to have the space to work with. 
Whats the reason for two rows of noggins on the new walls ? 
What was did you mean about requirements for infill walls,... the tie  down?

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## barney118

> Whats the reason for two rows of noggins on the new walls ?

  The walls are 2760mm high so I believe 2 rows of noggins are required.  

> What was did you mean about requirements for infill walls,... the tie  down?

  Yes the tie down, I might be over engineering here, No issues with the roof tie down to LVL's, but I think the stds says 3 x type 17 (bugles) per post, I have put in 2 (considering splitting of post). So where I can I have put a strap over the LVL and top plate to the outside post/ stud where I can.

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## jago

> The walls are 2760mm high so I believe 2 rows of noggins are required. 
> Yes the tie down, I might be over engineering here, No issues with the roof tie down to LVL's, but I think the stds says 3 x type 17 (bugles) per post, I have put in 2 (considering splitting of post). So where I can I have put a strap over the LVL and top plate to the outside post/ stud where I can.

  Yeah  your over engineering your tie downs but better to be safe than sorry...lol 
I asked the engineer about  this two rows beacuse I have a number of walls over  2400 his advice was one for upto 2700 (60mm is not much) anything nearing 3 metres that wasn't not double plates required 2 rows....now before everybody tells me thats not code these are the engineers drawings and mentors (builders) advice and I am happy with that.. 
so having said all that for the extra $15 of timber the extra noggis on yours Barney are again peace of mind. 
Now you have your framing in and locked up have you had your framing inspection? :Wink 1:

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## barney118

> Yeah  your over engineering your tie downs but better to be safe than sorry...lol 
> so having said all that for the extra $15 of timber the extra noggis on yours Barney are again peace of mind. 
> Now you have your framing in and locked up have you had your framing inspection?

  LOL- $15 of timber , heaps of fun with the Pasloe (priceless) :Biggrin: , no framing inspection yet, just dotting the i's and crossing the T's. The rest of the house has 2 rows of noggins, I would hate to get a cranky inspector if I put 1 row in. I know the std says 1350max, I am still waiting for them to call me back to get my wind classification, I think I am N3 (which is a bugger) (specific tie down required.)
The tie down pics in the book are different (jack stud between lintle and top plate.
Mine as my lintles are directly under the top plate, the top plate is bugled screwed down to the lintle every 600mm and the triple grip from the rafter to the top plate. The rest of the house is birdmouthed skew nailed !
I calulated the uplift force which was bugger all, but what if the bottom of the room is open, do i add the uplift  (wind hitting the particle board, assuming I want sign off for the upper storey so I can finish and continue building knowing the top is "over engineered.

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## barney118

Ready to tackle the frame inspection for upper storey so I can gyprock the walls, still have to run wires cat 5 and GPo, lights, but the building is done.
Ripped up the infill slab 3m2 60mm thick with BIG hammer and $90 Ozitio pecker. its payed for itself for chipping out bricks. Mate had a hole he needed to fill so got rid of rubble for nicks. 
Bricky cant make it this week to do some piers and tidy up walls, bricks here ready to go.
Some pics of the amount of work left to do EVERYWHERE. sorry Jago on rubbing in the good access (it must be a pain in taking it out in buckets, do your arms drag on the ground now?  :Biggrin: )
pic 1 access driveway. (Just for Jago)
Pic 2-3 pool (roof to go on pergola) also stashing rubble under deck. (picture showing sandstone flagging that will become stairs in that section sometime.... :Hmmm: 
Pic 3,4,5 (first time I took a photo "the bunker" where the pool equipment is kept (on the left of previous photo2 is the entrance) check out the size of the sandstone blocks, the whole wall is 3m high same size by 10m long. dont know how they moved it, note the railway lines inserted in the concrete.
Pic 6 The slab is now gone just need to remove the brick wall
Pic

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## jago

In the words of the mighty monty python .. you utter,utter, utter  basturd! :Biggrin:  
I'm actually  more  jealous that your pool didn't get ruined beacuse of council and their stupid rules...Chopping trees down today I could have had a dip as the mercury in my pool area was 35c but I would have to compete with the bloody frogs and floating bits  of timber. 
Barney IMO get all your framing  inspected all at once, they normally want to see that the  sparky/plumber and data guy has down there first fix :Wink 1:  and the more you get them back the more questions they're likely to ask.  :No:  
When I had mine done he walked in went over the  5 floors in less than 3 minutes asked me a couple of  technical questions about vermin mesh on joists ends and blocking played with my daughter walked out signed the certificate and then  spent 30 minutes talking to me about sport  out the front! :brava: if they all go like that I will be happy!

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## barney118

Some progress pictures, waiting for the bricky to turn up, re installed an ibeam (built a scaffold under and 'edged it up' 500mm at a time, chain block one end for safety and dad on the chains. Then proped it up and bricked it in. A bomb shelter pier on one end, wasnt supposed to be so big 1/2 a brick too much, oh well it aint going to fall down.
pic 1 installing ibeam
pic 2 wall to come down (west to left of picture) post to be removed when pier in place.
pic 3 Bloody big pier
pic 4 I beam installed and yellow T2 LVL new bearer for other half of floor.
pic 5 Internal piers to support bearers/ibeam, the one on the left I did as the bricky only worked haf the day, I laboured for him so I learnt a hell of a lot in 5 hrs, mind you it took me twice as long (maybe more) :Smilie: .
pic 6  The wall came down pretty easy, this will be the new rumpus room.
Pic 7 this is the view across the home theatre room into the rumpus. Havent decided if I put up an internal wall yet.
Now I can start on foundation piers and trenches (get most of the council sign off and get some concreting done in the new year.
Then back up stairs after frame inspection to finish the gyprock top coat/sand paint/GPO/Gas point/ lights/cat 5.....

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## barney118

The trouble you have to go through to re engineer the sub floor in this case its also the upper storey. As I have mentioned before, the upper walls fall right in the middle of the 2 i beams, previously the i beam I took down and here put back up was supported by a railway line 1.2m across the top of the brick wall, the wall on the left (pier I did) was a shower comming off at 90 deg going to the stormwater, finally a big head ache to rest.
Still have to create cavity on outside wall... any ideas? I was going to leave a gap of 30-40mm between slab and outer wall, either brick it up or just paint it, have to inject some dpc or stud wall it, I am putting a 100mm slab ontop of what you see ( minus the bricky sand pile), plastic first off course. The perimeter of the lower storey is on single leaf engaged piers on a footing 400x400, I have found it down to 200mm deep where I put up the big pier, I underpinned this a further 400mm and put plastic and starter trench mesh in

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## barney118

The ceiling, tough job.

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## jago

Mate .... 
Did you find any gold with the dodgy looking metal detector. :2thumbsup:

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## barney118

lol  :Biggrin: , it made a humming noise... not sure if I should start digging.

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## barney118

I need some motivation to go down and start preping the foundations for the lower storey which involves removing the rear stair case cutting holes to drop some concrete for piers for the rear upper storey deck, piers/slab for the 9m3 of concrete for the lowere storey, 95% of demolition work done just 1 room of 5m x 3m infill slab to remove and can do some concreting.

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## barney118

Going to the SCG on day 4 so need to conserve energy.

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## jago

> Going to the SCG on day 4 so need to conserve energy.

  
Oi post 46 is only an hours work pmsl and we piss yourself off by seeing Clarke get his?

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## barney118

Who's side are you on? Thats one mighty jinx if I have ever heard one ! I did manage to brick up a section in the centre of the underhouse to make it double brick thickness where my LVL was sitting on. As I am removing the existing wall which runs 90 deg, otherwise it would be held up by single leaf (Ok for short term). Will also add another skin to opposite side to make it an isolated pier 1500 long 350 thick, as I think the max I can have a 230 section 1500 high and the wall is 2.2 high. 
The reasoning the section is 1500 long is I cut out a section for a doorway, now thinking not such a good idea, but a 350 section will fix this.

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## barney118

Holidays over, start again, finished bricking up the internal centre pier which holds up 2 LVL for the upper storey floor, added a skin of bricks to either side now its a solid 350 thick wall which will end up being 700mm long.
A section has been cut out to allow access under stairs (to be inserted later (a further piece still has to come out after concrete is laid, currently holding up a railway line supporting a floor bearer mid span.) 
Will remove after concrete as wont be able to get pool table out of current garage if I pull the rail line down.
added brick ties to every 4th course on both sides, screwed and plugged.

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## jago

Getting there before you know it you will have the placed locked up ! 
Very neat with the brick ties FYI you can knock out a brick from every 4th row or so and cross them for future or even punch holes through mortar line and add ties. 
Now concreting, looking back I missed some really key photos because I was busy doing the work should  have got the wife ready with the camera when doing the footings and first bricks down etc.

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## barney118

First council inspection ticked off for upper storey frame so I can do some gyprocking.
Back to the engineer for his report on the infill slab, council will inspect next time with reo in and ready to pour. I wasnt entirely convinced as inspector said instructions or details of slab needed, cant see how designing your own via the stds not good enough??
He was more interested in termite protection for the existing house, I dont think anyone has come up with an option for this that actually works. Using T2 products is the best I can come up with. A chemical system would interfere with the vapour cavity, I can only think granular guard in the vapour cavity or cut into esisting brickwork (parging) I think its called with termimesh. Given I have engaged piers makes it all the more interesting.

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## barney118

Added the aerial cabling in the wall cavity, now have 4 x cat 5e cable (because Jago said thats a good idea !) which will end up going with the aerial on the wall plates. 
Solved some of the resonance problem in the upper floor. On the existing floor I did the following:
The issue was I had jacked up the floor installed the new LVL bearer under the hardwood joist next to the existing bearers which dont span full length and bolted these toghter with a M12 bolt. I (couldnt) nail the LVL and joist together as the floor is on (existing) so the weight of the floor and bolted wasnt enough to stop any movement.
I installed wedges (plastic ones you can buy) thinking it would solve the problem by forcing the load together but no go waste of time. 
The solution which worked was using uni-ties from joist to LVL with clouts made a significant difference where it is now hardly noticeable. This is the floor under the kitchen lying on my back which will be the downstairs rumpus.

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## jago

@@@@ me where do I send my consultancy invoice ....I thought somebody more learned than me had suggested 4 as a min I am just a monkey that does things that I am told by others!LOL

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## barney118

:Adult:  The monkey pic was pretty lame ! Have 4 x cat 5e to each TV now dont know what I will use them for but have them ! They are seperated by a stud one side of stud GPO from the ceiling and Cat5e from the floor with TV/Coaxial from ceiling, Gyprock here on Thurs need to finialise any light switches before I cover up or anything I want to run from ceiling to lower storey.

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## barney118

Got a day off and gyprock early, put in the light switch drops, will run 1 more pay tv cable and seal it up!. Lots of the itchy stuff  :Cry: 
Its a lot easier to put on sarking before the weatherboards! heres a retrofit.

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## shauck

That's how we had to do ours as we weren't taking off the weather boards. Lots of fiddling about. Maybe when I do the weather boards down the track, i'll put another layer on the outside of the studs. Would that be any use?

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## barney118

> That's how we had to do ours as we weren't taking off the weather boards. Lots of fiddling about. Maybe when I do the weather boards down the track, i'll put another layer on the outside of the studs. Would that be any use?

  I think it is already a bit of overkill for myself as I dont have sarking on any walls now and the house has been here 60 yrs. A good coat of exterior paint works treats. This wall is to the west so a little sark will help with heat. The walls will be insulated, again the rest of the house isnt so Its an improvement of whats already there.

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## shauck

Fair point. our house is 1890s and mostly solid frame still.

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## barney118

A few more pics 3/4 way through the gyprock. Setting the joins first coat. this is the problem when you live in the house, I have to move the pantry to gyprock behind the last wall then shift everything/ work/ clean up and do it again and again. Have the drywall sanding machine now so it should be quick in sanding and getting the sealer/primer on.
Have to go to the sawmill to see if they can mill up some picture rails too.

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## jago

I hear your bark on that one. 
Must be good seeing the walls and ceiling closed up, its still a pipe dream for me! :Annoyed:

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## barney118

Just finished stopping up my joins on the walls and corners, the drywall sander and vac I bought on ebay made light work of it.now for the prepcoat order the cornice this week get the sparky to fit the lights and GPOs. Mate to finish the cat5e termination. then only 40m2 of floor to finish/polish, architraves and I have a 40m2 rear extension, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!
Then it is onto phase 2 downstairs renovation, it all starts again ! of 100m2 starting with 9m3 of concrete infill slab.

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## ibuildbenches

Looking good mate. Makes a big difference once the plaster is up doesnt it!

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## barney118

> Looking good mate. Makes a big difference once the plaster is up doesnt it!

  It certainly does, prep coat done, finishing some minor touchups. Have the paint for the missus to let loose. All Dulux low sheen sandy bay for the walls, yardbird for the feature walls and giving the ceiling Once coat a go, the stuff goes on pink and dries white.
Upto putting downlights in, bought the special cutter ~$50. Waiting to hear some replies to downlight spacing. I am using the 12V 50W halogen fixed type.

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## barney118

Delay on the downlight plans,procrastinating on the LED vs halogen debate. Gone for the LED bit pricer and have the 240V version, on advice given need to have 12 V aparently LED dont work too well or should I say dont last as long running on A/C and need to be on DC hence using a transformer. Still can use the 9V LED bulbs as the casings are relatively cheap. So far the few light shops I have visited have said Cree are too expensive to keep ~$100 a bulb! They are working on a display with Led's and have some comming and looks like a 12 v is impressive.

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## barney118

Off the plan slightly, (still have to line up the sparky and plasterer to do cornices for me). Have created a mess and cleaned up closing off the existing lounge dorrway 1340mm opening to a standard doorway, relpaced 2 sheets of gyprock in the process as trying to match old plaster wouldnt have been worth the effort. Have to put some maple mouldings through the router to match the picture rails to complete and fit the door, BIW and give the room a make over after I have my new loungeroom.
Question I have a fireplace in this room with a gas point do I have to have it disconnected being a bedroom? I will be removing the heater and just having a point in there is this allowed?

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## barney118

Progress notes, cornice done by myself, and Dad, using nails to rest it on makes it so much eaiser, left screws in due to partly painted surface, did sand first to give something to adhere to.
Painted walls just wait for spraky to finish off and hookup down lights. Using 9W LED's 240V. 
Mainly minor jobs upstairs to do such as now install door on 4th bedroom, repaint upper storey insides. Last major job to do in the comming months is install hardwood flooring over the platform floor in new lounge and have the house floorboards done to match colour (rest of house is baltic pine been tinted 9yrs ago). First pic is the new lougeroom from the kitchen (kitchen bench is temporary), second is starting to move in the lounge, some picture rail up rest going up today. Last picture is the hallway door resized from 1400mm to std doorway.

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## barney118

Well, I cant believe its been 12 mth's since I last been on this thread. There has been a lot of digging, more digging, and more digging. Shuffling storage around from a to b to c and where ever its not in my way.
 Removed the old infill slab, wheel barrow loads of clay that was up against the house and water seeping through the bricks, all gone now foundation footings exposed, plumbing redone (properly) and bathroom/laundry reno ready for termite protection. partial retaining done here and there for some stormwater still to do. Trying to get multiple areas ready for a big concrete pour (may as well utilise that money for the pump ! (tight A@@). 
Changing priorities along the way and now I have multiple jobs to keep my busy. I can say all the work is "non essential" but once all the preparation for the slab pour is done then it will move quickly. 
So here's whats been happening: 
Laundry/bathroom  
I tell you the original strip footings were all over the place so it was hard to get my levels right, find the high spot, low spot, if you can imagine this each footing had a fall of some kind so neither were parallel. good old trusty mans best friend would be an exceptional helper if she could just pass the tape measure now and again. Then I put her bed in here and it was much more comfortable on the gravel and she started digging... nooooooooooooo. 
Making my own sliding gate   because.... I can !   
Relatives upgraded there caravan which is stored down the back now I have to re-dig the garage area by a further 2m deep x 800 high my 3.5m wide as I am still using my driveway to get deliveries to the rear of the house. So will be removing the old 3.1m opening gates and putting the sliding gate in. The council cross over needs to be done too so I need to get a move on with this. It is approx 6m long and 1700 high (maybe) just checking the height of the crossover to cut to size. I will clad with C/B sheets tek screwed to 3 x angles yet to be welded to the frame (maybe) I need to price up some spotted gum running vertically. The weight of the frame is approx 100kg. It took a number of measurements to make sure I didnt stuff up. quite windy today and the tape kept getting blown off the job so come back later. still need to buy the accessories to make it work, (push for now) 
I plan on getting it powdercoated, another tool to the library a metal drop saw (ozito) hey has 3 yr replacement, Im going to give it a belting ! The slab its sitting on is pretty level. I am thinking I should have maybe gone with 2.0mm thick rather than 2.5mm, too late now !

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## Cecile

> bathroom/laundry reno

  Which floor plan did you settle on?

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## barney118

> Which floor plan did you settle on?

  I know you will be disappointed !

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## Cecile

> I know you will be disappointed !

   :No:   Not disappointed at all, it's your house.  Just not my preferred option if it were my house.

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## barney118

Busy cutting and welding the sliding gate, a lot more work than expected, once welded and dressed off to the powdercoaters.

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## barney118

Here is the second driveway which will accommodate a double garage, but parking for now for a caravan. waiting on engineers specs for the slab (council req) I dont understand this as I told him what they are !
In the meantime you can see the sandstone I have reclaimed that was in the old driveway, some buried on thier side like the one in the trolley 500 deep ! I estimate 220 kg for this one, I needed to pump up the tyres.
Sliding gate getting powder coated.

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## shauck

Will you be re-using the sandstone? That must have been some heavy work!

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## barney118

> Will you be re-using the sandstone? That must have been some heavy work!

  Heavy work yes ! wheels help alot. I have that much sandstone on this place, I have no where left to use it. I was considering making a retaining wall but I lose too much depth with it, I also considered cutting to brick size and using motar as a feature wall but its porous.
In the end a bloke upo the road had pallets in this front lawn, I knocked on the door, hello sold it to him, Its like people want it for nothing, this sandstone is a little different I guess, as he made a comment its quite dense.

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## shauck

Good result. A nice thick retaining wall would have been pretty nice tho. Pity you didn't have room for it.

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## barney118

I have just dug out 12 m x 7 m of 1/2 the back yard for the double garage that keeps on getting bigger. The block is 14 m wide.
Just room for the inlaws caravan at the moment.  
Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

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## Cecile

> I have just dug out 12 m x 7 m of 1/2 the back yard for the double garage that keeps on getting bigger. The block is 14 m wide.
> Just room for the inlaws caravan at the moment.  
> Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

  Barney, Ted wants to know if you dug that all out by hand?   :Tongue:

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## barney118

Nah, I tell ya just raking the area picking up the rocks is a big enough task! I should have advertised to get rid of the dirt/fill as when it came to doing it no-one wanted any then all of a sudden I could have got rid of plus more, its always the way. It also pays to shop around as what started out just widening the council cross over ended up in 40T of dirt removal and 16T of concrete to dump/recycle.

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## barney118

sliding gate 6m x 1.8 steel $520, welder $350, cutting drop saw $180, powder coated $350, track, rollers and wheels $210 wood infills $500 (pack will use rest for deck), now screws to fix timber and install. 
Just another part of the jigsaw!

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## barney118

Update on the sliding gate, wood on need to clean and oil, timber cost me $1.75 l/m and this is a way to get rid of all those shorts in the pack. Still need to come up with some sort of design for a lock, I am trying to avoid putting holes in the gate frame, as it will be a while before I get electricity down there and the motor etc.
Her'es the link to the thread: http://www.renovateforum.com/f214/sl...37/#post897298, beer o'clock now. :Beer:   :Cheers2:

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## barney118

Its been a month since I last updated, sliding gate has a coat of oil on it, I used Cabots spa and deck since I had 10L after giving the pool deck a few maintenance coats.
:
I am not too sure I like the oil, I might go back to Feast Watson, I noticed the other day you can get decking oil and I think it was natural timber oil, whats the difference? 
Instead of accumulating, I had ~300lm of mixed hardwood decking which I was going to save for the back deck, since I havent got round to putting up the piers I may as well give the front deck a makeover, ripping up the old treated pine, there is a few shorts used, but I actually like using them which gives a great colour spread, also it is useful for a straight line check as the boards are quite level. I used up stainless screws since I had them, managed to put a few screws in every board to hold down until the new order arrives. I used 10g x 65mm, is there much difference in using 10g by 50mm??   
Off to the cricket at the Gabba next weekend for a hard earned rest  :Beer:  :Cheers2:  :Drink:  :Drink Nl:

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## barney118

Cricket was a washout but the Norman Hotel made up with its big ass steak, highly recommend.
Moving along installed some gates I have had sitting around for a while wrought iron will post when I paint them.
Meanwhile I made a start on the rear deck brick piers, takes me a bit longer and quite impressed so far with my accuracy, a storey rod is a huge help  
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## barney118

Well as per last post, my bricks have been sitting here for 2 yrs so I may as well put um up, first piers as per last photo, took me a day but I am really impressed (day per pier, includes running around kids to and from school etc) Second one not as good as the first (I put it down to the obstruction old stairs I am building around) third one just as good as the bricky that done the last one, and the forth I think I can have a merit certificate. 
photo 1 pier 1&2, photo 2 pier 3, photo 3 pier 4. I found as I go that bricks are not perfectly square so you need to compensate somewhere, ie horizontal or vertical, so best go for vertical and then horizontal on the finish layers. Use a storey rod (A 50mm square fence post was just right, clamp it on the bottom layers) spend time on getting the first few layers right and the rest is a lot easier. the 350 pier ended up being 355 due to the fact of the squareness of the bricks. 
Very happy so far.
Since I have the joists from my old deck I have 1/2 of them so doing jobs to reduce storage, build new stairs (have stringers, to reclaim and a good hardwood tread this time)

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## barney118

Well I have been knocking off jobs with materials that I have stored for "later", I have done the piers so bearers starting to go up and joists started with what I have left from last deck, stringers cleaned up now start to build the stairs so I can remove the old ones, in the meantime lay down some plastic (ran out) for the concrete job. Have a few jobs to do for some friends in the meantime so its been busy cleaning up , but I am glad I have started again.
Putting some thoughts into the handrail for new deck, have some hardwood posts and merbau left over so thinking of a combo.
Lots of little tidy up jobs to keep me busy  for a few weeks.

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## sundancewfs

Looking good barney, It's great to get stockpiled materials out of the way. I'm always surprised at how much room there is after you get that sort of stuff used up...... And how little room there is in the recycling bin after all the cardboard packaging has been stuffed in there. :Biggrin:  
I'll probably be in The Gong  some time in January.

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## barney118

Another couple of small jobs done, putting in services under new deck into my pool " bunker" where they will go under pavers to the pool deck and onto garage. It also allows me to tidy up some stormwater and a step closer to building a ramp from back to front up the side of the house.
In the meantime shifted 7t of bricks and dirt to friend up the road to fill in a hole in 4 trips ( load and unload), I didn't realize I had so much crap lying around.
And finally installed some wrought iron gates to the side deck. I can't believe I have so many little jobs to do.
Still have to paint these. I am also figuring on what type of handrail for new deck, and start to put together stairs.   
Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

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## barney118

Been playing with the thicknesser to turn some blackbutt into treads, fed through the router table too (took a whole 15 mins) to roll the edges. Getting excited and had to give you a look at how the stairs are coming on, slow and steady wins the race. Ordered the posts, have the handrail, now I can work on the deck and build the safety rails as I go.

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## Bloss

Lookin' great! That top step off the decking is a long one . . .  :Biggrin:  :Wink:

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## barney118

slow progress, entertaining kids in the school holidays. Managed to have a pleasant visit from Sundancrews and mini Sundancecrews. installed a couple of post to the ground of the staircase, and platform and bottom section of stairs (I was going to use original stringers but for $90 I bought new and routered out etc. Still more posts to go and decking and etc etc. Stair treads blackbutt through the thicknesser and router table, stringers TP painted on the outsides. 3 x 12 mm rods in each flight. Careful of your step handrails under construction !

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## sundancewfs

It was great to catch up barney, Your project is wonderful. It is always interesting to see a project in context and yours is vast! A real credit to you. It will be beautiful when its done.  :2thumbsup:

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## barney118

A bit of progress, pack of timber decking, check, load up and put where  ever it will fit check, dismantle old stairs and make a mess check,  chain block to remove old stairs makes light work of a difficult set of  stairs for a one man band. handrail still to be fitted properly will  recycle the old one for now with a lick of paint, going for spotted gum  for new handrail deck posts. 
Who said you cant work in the rain, 1  x 5mx5m tarp plenty of wind to dry the place up and help from the  squeegy knocked over 400 screws, killed the clever tool and hardware  failures cost a bit of time (clever tool wouldnt hold its drill bit  bought another to keep me going). 
Concrete man in town, hope weather clears so I can pour the apron for the garage down the back, delivery man for steel reo cant get here till tues, fingers crossed as concrete man flying back out thurs, need planets to align now.

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## barney118

6 weeks have passed since last post, this one man horse has been flogged literally the last 6 weeks. What ended up being 2 jobs on the go for the one man band, concreting apron done, when you have in-laws that are hard to pin down and weather that has been unfavorable of late and steel man about to let you down it gets stressed time  :Doh: , steel man arrived 4:30pm on Mon, I gave the concrete company warning of concrete next day, only option before 10 am ! need to drill approx 30 starter bars in existing concrete, final scrape, fit drain and finalise formwork, ended up being 120mm thick as didnt have time to fill. Attachment 96766Attachment 96768Attachment 96769
Back onto the deck, recycle what I can on ballasters, rails fresh coat of paint, buy some spotty gum newel/ verandah posts cut, router edges install, bought another 800lm of decking, 4000 s/s screws, 10 x 290x 45 bearers, joists as required pull down old herringbone corner and resuse what i could on the joists, install new herringbone corner, remove Al DPC and install joist/bearer protector, paint all bearers, 320kg to the tip, 160 bricks picked up for the last of the piers and sand/cement ready to go.
Ran out of screws today so its back onto handrail gave them a coat of oil. install tomorrow.
Spent a few hours in the herringbone joint with the thicknesser and cutting the joint, not something easy to do.

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## intertd6

With pic #2 above you need to have some sort of additional attachment system for  the joists to the 45' joist as nailing is not sufficient to safely carry the loads. 
regards inter

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## barney118

> With pic #2 above you need to have some sort of additional attachment system for  the joists to the 45' joist as nailing is not sufficient to safely carry the loads. 
> regards inter

  All the 45 deg joists have been installed using type 17 bugles x 2 (I can always add a 3rd one? 240 joists), I nailed them to hold them up in position before screwing with the bugles. I wouldn't rely on nails, alternatively what is generally used? I looked at joist hangers nailing them off would be a bit tricky.

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## intertd6

> All the 45 deg joists have been installed using type 17 bugles x 2 (I can always add a 3rd one? 240 joists), I nailed them to hold them up in position before screwing with the bugles. I wouldn't rely on nails, alternatively what is generally used? I looked at joist hangers nailing them off would be a bit tricky.

  bugles aren't really acceptable either unless you can have an engineer certify them, I have never used 45' joist brackets but I'd say its a bit late for them, usually a bearer under the joists is the easiest solution, a truss manufacturer could give you a plate design that could do the job with certification.
regards inter

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## barney118

> bugles aren't really acceptable either unless you can have an engineer certify them, I have never used 45' joist brackets but I'd say its a bit late for them, usually a bearer under the joists is the easiest solution, a truss manufacturer could give you a plate design that could do the job with certification.
> regards inter

  I know its not going to fall down in a hurry, as I dismantled the last one built exactly the same slightly longer as i didnt want a 'double mitre seen under the deck' , to put this one up and it didn't budge and installed for 9 yrs, in saying that will follow through with truss place for certification, I have seen the gal angles used from them and its nothing more than ~ 6mm 50 x50 HDG angle with holes.

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## barney118

It has been busy and time to read posts but not so much to post myself. Rear deck is finished 1 coat of oil, reused the old balusters with a lick of paint, no cash for glass yet. 
looking west 
looking Sth/East 
 Reused the old handrail capping for part of the rafters on the mitre/cnr of deck, didn't have time to paint before went up, verandah beams outsides did, didnt fancy painting 5m in the air. The hip (glulam) has had 3 lives so far and manged to finally find a home for. 
External stairs, Blackbutt/spotty gum combo, all handrail has been routered out a groove for strip LED lighting to be installed when roof goes on so under is dry for electrical.   
Give the place a clean up to see whats left as materials not easy to keep on storing, so I have managed to literally run down the inventories built up. 
Waiting for the right time/bargain to get some spotty for inside but it can wait till later now, as I received some hand me downs floating floor to cover up the 45m2 of platform floor, to make inside like its finished (top level anyway), complete in 2 days.   
At least it is starting to look like a house instead of a building site.

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## woodchip

Well Done Barney, its coming along really well. I Have to a similar situation where I have to provide additional support to some floor joist at a 45 deg angle, I have also used Gal bugles but need an additional bracket of some type?? what did you end up doing ? can you buy a splayed angle "off the shelf" (splayed to 135deg instead of the usual 90deg)?, a certifier told me a bracket like this would be sufficient(screwed to the side of the joists) rather than physically supporting it from underneath(like a joist hanger), if you know what I mean. cheers Woody

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## barney118

> Well Done Barney, its coming along really well. I Have to a similar situation where I have to provide additional support to some floor joist at a 45 deg angle, I have also used Gal bugles but need an additional bracket of some type?? what did you end up doing ? can you buy a splayed angle "off the shelf" (splayed to 135deg instead of the usual 90deg)?, a certifier told me a bracket like this would be sufficient(screwed to the side of the joists) rather than physically supporting it from underneath(like a joist hanger), if you know what I mean. cheers Woody

  I was told by my TAFE teacher that bugles are only good for uplift and not shear... mmmmmmm, will look into this with my engineering background. We were discussing roof's and a certified told him to take them out and replace with coach bolts. 
I just took apart my old deck ~ 10 yrs old, in TP bugles didn't want to come out, coach bolts had been 1/2 eaten by corrosion. The old 45 mitre was screwed with bugles , I had to cut or destroy the timber to be able to dismantle.
I think some people writing standards should get out in the field.
New deck s/s coach and bugles  and s/s deck screws with hardwood. I have just employed myself for umpteen years for oiling maintenance.
Look into joist hangers on a mitre, but my wrap around is not 45 deg, so will install hot dipped 50x50 under to make it " look good" and insurance.  
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## barney118

Progress at last, I haven't been sitting around doing nothing, Deck rafters are up a little more wait before I finish the roof. So effort and $$ put into concrete first down under. Soon there will be no evidence of old garage to be seen.    
Job ticked off the list after Kordon man comes around I can start with walls/bathroom, internal stairs etc.
Area is approx 80m2 all up internally.

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## barney118

some major internal structural floor changes. I bought another 400x57 LVL G15 and face-mounted the I joist (should have done this first time!) bricked up new piers to take this, then took down the old one and laminated it with this.
Then took down the 300x63 LVL and did the same. this allowed me to demolish 700mm of internal pier which was in the middle of the room, it makes the place look a lot bigger. 
I bent my panel lifter when I tried to lift the old roller door down, bit of panel beating still ok to use, it was useful for the one man job  lifting beams, handy neighbour was needed for the 400 beams though.

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## barney118

A little bit more, roof on the deck. 
wait for brickie to finish downstairs outside walls, meanwhile cat5e, electrical cable running, still have to hire machine to grind concrete downstairs to expose aggregate.

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## Moondog55

Seriously nice

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## barney118

Finally finished the pool cabana/gazebo roof what ever you want to call it, (still need to enclose to protect the spa and beef up the deck before I fill the spa, now I think about it its not really finished is it. :Confused:  now I can move onto the house again.

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## barney118

progress on infill walls downstairs. 1 openings and pool room on right home theatre on the left open plan area. 2 new door opening to get to study ceiling height is 2350mm was an old garage loss some height due to infill slab raising. 3 inside bath/laundry internal slider opens onto pool room. 4 compact laundry. 5 study ceiling joists red beams are railway lines supporting floor bearer been there 50 yrs plus.6 mancave bar to be built. 6. pool room. 7 wall still to be completed will be where stairs come down from above stairs left to right 8 east wall where stairs come down will have projector screen on this wall. Note Kordon used around the perimeter of all walls. been busy getting quotes for doors, windows, stairs. still to polish concrete at a later date , trying to get it to lockup, been waiting for bricky to finish outside for the last month. Then the fun with electrical, plumbing, gyprock.

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## barney118

Well my go to whoa is a little bit more than the house, there is ummm a garage to build to. I have had to start this job because I need to get retaining walls built before I end up with a bigger problem. The storm the other day reinforced the need to get something done when a wall collapsed so I spend the day clearing out the hole and sandbagging. The cheap ozito pump works wonders.

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## barney118

Used a few muscles that I havent used in a while putting in the steelwork. 
green light from engineer. 
A little bit sad too when you go to the timber yard for 1 piece of timber to finish off the framework so that means I must be getting close to finishing to the next stage fit out.

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## barney118

green light from council, tip for others if you have pipes in slab put some expansion foam around them.

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## barney118

Beat the rain 14 m3 pumped in , included 1 m3 for where I will recess my outdoor spa into the pool deck.

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## barney118

One step closer to one job finishing, Just need to trench where the pool roller is to put on electricity.

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## Armers

worst reno ever... so bad i am going to have to come up and take ownership of the problems and house!  :Blush7:  
BTW: Doing well looks fkn awesome! 
Cheers

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## barney118

> worst reno ever... so bad i am going to have to come up and take ownership of the problems and house!  
> BTW: Doing well looks fkn awesome! 
> Cheers

  I'll give you a call when it's time to do the kitchen  
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## Armers

Awesome... I miss working on a house! (did i say that out loud?)

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## barney118

Finally had the french doors arrive and fitted for downstairs. I made a mistake on the original order by not having a threshold (the bit at the bottom installed) they came with a knockout plank with a 10mm gap at the bottom (also the reveals were suppose to be 120mm came 140mm) so they were sent back and arrived yesterday. It cost me $500 to have the doors modified but it was worth it. They dont admit it (door people) but I went down to the store and specifically asked for a threshold but the paper work had no threshold, the cost was cost only to rectify but in the end a lesson to read the paperwork thoroughly and get with the terminology. I more job for the bricky and its up to lock up. I could have put in timber for half the price but I like the idea of low maintenance. I didnt go for sliders to allow easy access for lounge and furniture through a doorway.

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## barney118

Well its been a long while since my last post but I am nearly there. Heres the outside finished except for the rendering.  
Internal stairs are in.   
Man cave   
first photo a bar to be built behind the pool table, found use of the LVL beams overhead to put up some of my US number plates. Second shot is looking at the home theatre, third shot pool table, 4th shot entry to study and will be a closet under stairs.   
My gadgets, first in ceiling projector screen box (still need to buy screen). My hills home hub box with some of the gear for ethernet to all my rooms 4 ports to tv's (needs a tidy up and a few modifications). Pole for the projector (still need to buy a donunt to cover the hole). 
How do I get rid of the thumbnails? I had an error message 12 photos only)?

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## barney118

a few polished concrete shots, there are some cracks in the concrete but  these initially put me off in doing it but they filled them with  concrete mix and as you can see you have to really look out for them.  Middle shot is where a pier used to stand and removed after I have  concreted the whole area, I filled it with some recycled agg and have a  bit of a feature. Initially I had by hyjoist sitting ontop of my bearers  but I built a 350 pier (now under stairs) and located 2 bearers ontop of this and face  mounted the joists which gave me much more head room in the finished  product (look at the previous photo where my number plates are).   
The bathroom/laundry. 
Still need to give the place a second coat of paint and then I will install the architraves. 
Now after a few tidy ups I can start upstairs which needs a revamp, bifolds to go in then spotted gum flooring throughout approx 150m2 then a new kitchen/bathroom then Im done.... on the house that is, still have to build the garage down the back..

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## Moondog55

Love it Nice job all around
mancave is a little small tho isn't it?

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## barney118

> Love it Nice job all around
> mancave is a little small tho isn't it?

  It is a little small, if i could part with the pool table there would be heaps of room.  :Wink 1:

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