# Forum Home Renovation Heating & Cooling  Parts available for oil heaters

## Gramps

Is anyone out there looking for parts new or secondhand for oil heaters,
I may not have all parts, but might be able to help.  It may not be listed below but ask anyway. Electrics, control boards, elements, fans, brackets, screws, sensors, glass, radients, 
technical manuals, sales brochures for many old heating systems 
Vulcan: 302, 10, 40 series
Wonderheat: 500, 700, 820,920 series
Ansaheat: R42, R60
Hecla: FH2, FH3, FH5
Simpson
to name only a few

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## john116

HI - I'd be interested in any sales brochures/manuals you have for any for the Vulcan Oil heaters.   

> Is anyone out there looking for parts new or secondhand for oil heaters,
> I may not have all parts, but might be able to help.  It may not be listed below but ask anyway. Electrics, control boards, elements, fans, brackets, screws, sensors, glass, radients, 
> technical manuals, sales brochures for many old heating systems 
> Vulcan: 302, 10, 40 series
> Wonderheat: 500, 700, 820,920 series
> Ansaheat: R42, R60
> Hecla: FH2, FH3, FH5
> Simpson
> to name only a few

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## Uncle Bob

I could be interested in some fireproof glass (for a wood fired heater). If you have some, I'll have a measure up.

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## Gramps

I will get the manuals and parts/glass from the filing cabinets and take some photos.

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## john116

> I will get the manuals and parts/glass from the filing cabinets and take some photos.

  
Awesome!

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## elfelf

Hi there Gramps. I am in Adelaide and looking for parts for a Vulcan model 302A. Do you still have these? 
Cheers

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## Gramps

What particular part are you after, I can ferret thru the shed

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## elfelf

The RCD is tripping after a few minutes of turning it on. The heating element turns on but it only creates smoke before tripping the RCD. So maybe a heater element if you have one. Or do you think it could be something else?

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## Gramps

It will be the starter element thats tripping the rcd.
Replace the start element, clean out burner pot st same time. 
These models when starting normally will start with lots of white smoke in burner box for about 2-5 mins before actual flame is see. 
Get the burner pot out and try local appliance spare store for the element
Try flagstaff electrical

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## elfelf

Thanks. I have emailed Flagstaff electrical.

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## chrisp

Just as a long shot, if the starter element is a mineral-insulated element (which look like electric stove or electric oven elements), they can be prone to tripping RCDs if they haven’t been used for a long time. Moisture can enter the mineral insulation and cause enough leakage that trips the RCD. The elements can be dried out by heating them. If you have a circuit that isn’t rcd protected, you could try using it to see if works. Or, alternatively, you could remove it and heat it in an oven for an hour or so to dry it out. 
If it is just moisture, and it comes good, it should work on the RCD protected circuit afterwards.

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## Gramps

Hi Chirsp, your exactly right, It can work, but never guaranteed, still best to clean out burner pot.
the old elements can break getting them out, so best play it safe and have new element on hand. 
for elfelf, let me know how you get on

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## Smurf

A curious question for those who know more about these than me. 
Not specific to any model but when lighting the instructions basically say "turn the oil on to a low setting and press the button". Details vary between heaters but that's basically it - key point being that the oil is turned down low. 
What happens, hypothetically, if you turn the oil up to a high setting and press the button to light it? I've never been willing to try messing about but just wondering what happens? 
Is there an actual danger? As in starting it when turned fully up is going to go boom! and burn the house down? 
Or does it just not light and not at all exciting?  
Just something I've wondered but never known the answer to.

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## Gramps

**Some good questions from Smurf worth explaination, where I have quoted in red below.
 Lots of detail below as there seams to be an interest in the starting procedure for oil heaters.   *Detail below all refers to heaters that are in correct functioning order and are not clogged in flue or burner pots, which will all disrupt normal operation.*  _Not specific to any model but when lighting the instructions basically say "turn the oil on to a low setting and press the button". Details vary between heaters but that's basically it - key point being that the oil is turned down low._ 
All these models listed at start of thread have similar oil valve metering/control system, lighting these heaters should always have oil control set to 1 ( minimum) for starting, this will start flow of oil to burner pot at the min rate, ( like a slow drip) these heaters don't need much oil to light, just time to get the oil pool heated up to ignition temp. 
There is a variance between some models that have an electric control head on top of the oil metering valve, some of those models ( Wonderheat 820/920, Ansaheat R42TE,Hecla FH5 ) will allow the oil valve to be set to higher than #1,for starting, however the electric control head and added electronics will still limit the start oil flow to the minimum  flow rate, until the heater is alight and upto a stable fire.  *In short always follow the lighting instructions for that model.*
Generally these heaters have four controls to operate them with.
1. Oil metering flow, 2. Air metering, 3. Oil flow to control valve on/off. 
4. Fan control (circulation and combustion, varies across all makes/models) 
The more advance heaters Wonderheat 820/920, Hecla FH5, incorporated these three (1-3) controls into single knob operations, the more basic heaters Ansaheat R42M were just very manual and were light with a lite tissue. 
The Vulcan heater 302/10 series all use the three (1-3) controls, the last Vulcan oil heater the 40 series (curved glass) has single  contol knob and the single oil flow to control valve on/off.   What happens, hypothetically, if you turn the oil up to a high setting and press the button to light it? I've never been willing to try messing about but just wondering what happens? 
For the  models with the electric metering head it won't matter if the oil starting knob is turned past #1, as the control head will still limit the starting flow to minimum. 
However the models with out the metering control head (all Vulcan oil heaters) starting with the oil knob above #1 will inhibit the lighting process,* too much oil is bad,*  
however if the heater does start I will make loud bang and light abnormally,  further as it has a "belly full " of oil, once alight the burning will accelerate past normal conditions, it can be scary, I have see glass fronted heaters crack the glass, break the glass, bend the glass, flue caps blow off,  although rare these things have happened.  *Do not light an oil flooded heater.*  _Is there an actual danger? As in starting it when turned fully up is going to go boom! and burn the house down?
Or does it just not light and not at all exciting? _ 
Flooded oil heaters of all models can light and be scary to the uninitiated. 
For all the Vulcan above no fan is required for running or starting, it just there to circulate heated air.
Theres another chapter around what the fan and air supply does for each model, each model heater has differing fan requirements. 
Hope this helps clarify, I'm happy to explain further or take onboard others thoughts and experiences to add to the collective knowledge of the old but great heaters.

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## elfelf

Message from Flagstaff electrical 
"Sorry, we don’t recognise that model, as far as we are aware there are two types, the 10 series which has a flat front glass and the 40 series which is curved. We can suplly the element for the 10 series $65.00 plus $15.00 freight if required. 
The manufacturer of the 40 series has ceased production, we are trying to encourage them to do one more batch for us but even if they do we won’t receive them until next season" 
This is the one I have Google Image Result for http://tasmaniantimes.com/images/uploads/vulcanoilheater590.jpg Do you know which series it is?  
Thanks Chrisp - i will try this on the weekend. 
Cheers

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## Gramps

The 10 series is the on you want. Price seams about right. I'd buy two if I were job and able to afford it.

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## Smurf

> if the heater does start I will make loud bang and light abnormally,  further as it has a "belly full " of oil, once alight the burning will accelerate past normal conditions, it can be scary, I have see glass fronted heaters crack the glass, break the glass, bend the glass, flue caps blow off,  although rare these things have happened.

   I thought something bad might happen, didn't expect it to be quite so dramatic. That would explain a few I've seen where the glass has partly melted. 
There's a Vulcan in my new (well quite old actually but new to me) house that I haven't moved into yet. Suffice to say I'll be heeding your advice so as to not turn the Vulcan into a volcano. Cheers.  :2thumbsup:

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## elfelf

Update: I gave up  :Frown:  
I pulled out the firebox? and scraped the carbon, old insects and spiders out. The element looked to be in good condition - so I put it all back together and it still tripped the RCD.
As much as I don't want to be beaten by it, I have spent enough time and not willing to spend any $. So it will be removed. 
Thanks for all the suggestions
Cheers

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## Gramps

Sorry you gave up, the igniter may look fine, however it will be the most likely reason for the elcb tripping out. 
Always replace this part if elcb trips 
List it on this forum, I'm sure someone will take it of*f* your hands

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## Smurf

Well I now own the new house. Haven't moved in yet but have checked everything out including the heater. 
A question for those who know, the tank at present is _completely_ dry and there's nothing at all in it. Apart from the obvious step of putting fuel in the tank do I need to bleed the line or anything to get it to work? Or will it just flow through? 
I've pulled similar heaters apart, given them a clean etc before but never had a completely empty tank so not sure on that bit. 
And a related question - do the fan bearings on the old Vulcan heaters need periodic oiling? Or are they sealed bearings etc? 
Photo isn't mine but it looks the same as this one (random photo found online): https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzIwWDQ0MA==/z/BvkAAOSwtalbM1PY/$_20.JPG 
The heater does seem to work. Press the button and the red light plus the ignition element turns on (well, it uses power so it presumably is working). The fan works on high speed but not on low speed but at least it runs.

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## Smurf

Well I now own the new house. Haven't moved in yet but have checked everything out including the heater. 
A question for those who know, the tank at present is _completely_ dry and there's nothing at all in it. Apart from the obvious step of putting fuel in the tank do I need to bleed the line or anything to get it to work? Or will it just flow through? 
I've pulled similar heaters apart, given them a clean etc before but never had a completely empty tank so not sure on that bit. 
And a related question - do the fan bearings on the old Vulcan heaters need periodic oiling? Or are they sealed bearings etc? 
Photo isn't mine but it looks the same as this one (random photo found online): https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzIwWDQ0MA==/z/BvkAAOSwtalbM1PY/$_20.JPG 
The heater does seem to work. Press the button and the red light plus the ignition element turns on (well, it uses power so it presumably is working). The fan works on high speed but not on low speed but at least it runs. 
Thanks

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## Gramps

Oil should be gravity feed from tank, oil flow is not fast through 3/8 or 5/16 pipe.
Should not need bleeding of air, just paitence to allow oil to flow. 
You can disconect incoming copper line at oil heater inlet where it joins the filter, with oil tank valve turned on, have container and rags ready, the oil will not gush out. For a system that has been dry for a while I would do the above to make sure you don't get crap from the tank into the contol valve, let the oil run until you are happy what flows out is clean and has even flow. 
This will make sure you have oil up to the heater. 
The black filter may get blocked but generally you could remove the filter, and blow it through by mouth. Generally not the cause of poor flow. 
The oil control valve is the next spot where oil flow can get stopped, the internal mechanisms get gummed up by lack of oil flow or old oil. Moving the mechanisms by hand, not using the top knobs can free up most sticky valves.
For really stuck valves they will need to be removed to free up the internals. 
To finally check oil flow, disconnect the inlet to the burner pot and let oil run freely into a tray/rag without changing the actual height of the inlet pipe in relation to the connected position.
When doing this turn control knob to max ( keep power of, this stops the ignition element from turning on) 
You should see oil flowing slowly from outlet pipe. Turn oil knob to low setting should see oil flow slow at outlet pipe. 
Original Fans only have brass sleeves for bearings, some rp7 can help. Make sure you clean out the fan cylinders of fluff and dust, this will slow them up. 
Sorry for the long story, This bring back many memories of doing this sort of work,  hope it helps, 
alternately fly me to Hobart, lol lol

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## Smurf

Excellent and thanks heaps  :Smilie:  
Now tomorrow I've just got to get on with this packing boxes stuff. That's the bit about moving I'm not so keen on.....

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## Smurf

> The oil control valve is the next spot where oil flow can get stopped

  Therein lies my problem.....  :Redface: ( 
There was some oil in the tank after all. They said it was empty but I had a look and theres a bit there. 
So I tried the heater. No go although the ignition element definitely works. 
Long story short, having disconnected everything etc, is that theres oil flow up to the control valve but it wont let a drop through. 
Heater is a Vulcan. Only number I can find is 10-36. 
The valve turns easily and isnt at all stiff. 
Pressing the start button doesnt seem quite right from memory. It feels like pushing on a sponge or something like that, theres no firm
click or anything of that nature. Just a spongey / rubbery sort of feel. 
Ive tried giving the valve a decent tap on the outside thinking that might help.  
Also tried warming it up with a light bulb - warm oil is thinner so should flow more easily. 
Tried priming it by manually filling the pipe between then control valve and the burner pot and making sure the oil ran into the valve. 
All with no success so Ive given up for now and will do other things around the house of which there are plenty to choose from. 
I would like to get the heater going though.

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## Gramps

Good work, the oil control value in the heater is literally "gummed up" heating oil when left to sit will form and leave Gummie residue and hence stick up the internal mechanisms in the contol valve, thus stopping oils flow from leaving the valve. 
sadly the light globe theroy won't help this, the gentle tapping can, but sounds like full control valve strip down. All fixable. 
you need to remove the control valve and pull top cover plate off, then the top half comes off. Inside you will find a spring slide mechanism under the control knob, this is where it will be sticky, strip apart and clean to all thing s slide smoothly. 
Your tricky bit will be removing the control valve, not hard just remember they put it in and made it logical to get out later.
Oil off at tank, Disconnect oil inlet, un clip and lift up control rods that go to top of heater, control unit slides out from mounting runners. 
When valve out don't tip to get rid of oil inside, it's worth paying attention if the is oil in valve or not, you'll see this when top cover plate is off, this will assist in fault finding, eg does the value actually get oil into it or not. 
when you get the valve out you will see exactly how the push button on of mechanism works and why it feels spongy with only a feint click for on/off. 
stick with it, you r nearly there.590

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## Smurf

Thanks for such a quick response 😀 
Just thinking, if the problem is it being gummed up then will my having put oil into both sides of the valve cause that to dissolve if left? 
Or is that just wishful thinking?

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## Gramps

Wishful thinking, your best course of action, take the oil valve out to clean an release internals,  it will seam tricky but there is 1960s logic to it. 
I have got an old valve out from the man cave and made some dogey video about pulling it apart. I don't have a heater here I can do picture of bits to undo to get valve out, perhaps post a few pics of front of heater valve and I can annotate it for you.

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## Smurf

> Oil off at tank

  Oh how simple that sounds..... 
Oh how terribly wrong it has gone......  :Doh:  
A key difference between heating oil and firewood is that wood can be neatly stacked on the ground. In contrast, heating oil on the ground just goes everywhere. 
Turned the tap off at the tank however oil the started pouring out from the tap assembly. Once that happened it wouldnt stop with the valve open, closed or in between.  
Ive just moved into the house, dont even have most of my stuff yet (as in no bed, no chairs or anything else - its all
in a shipping container on the way) and that means nothing to contain the oil safey in either. By pure chance I did have some
spray on rubber sealing stuff and using that has cut the flow to a drip which seems to be evaporating on the concrete below the tank. 
So theres not much oil in the tank now..... �� 
Having had this problem, plus noting what appears to be past dodgy repairs to the heater (a few missing screws, Im pretty
sure the wooden block holding up the oil control valve isnt an OEM part, etc) Ive decided to get a professional to check the whole thing and fix as necessary (or tell me if its not worth fixing). Im an electrician (industrial) not an oil tech and noting the issues I think having someone with more knowledge check it all would be wise given theres heat and combustible liquid involved. 
If you or anyone else you know or who is reading this wants the job then let me know. Ill pay of course. Note that Ive just updated my profile to reflect my new location which is now Adelaide not Hobart (hence all my furniture being in transit). 
Apologies for any typos - all typed on a phone not a keyboard.

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## Smurf

Heater has been fixed with the kind assistance of a member of this forum. 
Not sure if they want to remain anonymous so I wont name them but just posting this to say its all sorted and working nicely. 
There are literally zero electronics in these, its all mechanical and basic electrical parts since its 1960s technology, so its all fixable with knowledge, basic hand tools and a bit of time. Puts out a great heat now that its going.

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## Clarebear

Hi renovate members! 
Im a newbie here; joined after finding this post in google.  Thanks so much for your detailed posts, particularly yours Gramps. 
Ive got a series 10 Vulcan heater in a house weve recently purchased that appears to be neglected for many years.  
Im able to turn the oil knob all the way and can smell oil when I do.  Red light will turn on. 
When I push the on off switch, I dont hear any click other than when I pull it back up.  If I push too hard, it will push all the way through, so not sure if this is correct, or if its missing something?  
Im unable to turn the air nozzle at all. It moves maybe 1cm at the top knob bit where the joining round teeth are connected, they only move 1-2 teeth.   
Ive managed to remove the glass, bottom front panel and ceramic heat stones (covered is a LOT of black soot) but am unsure how to remove the rest to get to the control valve. 
Could someone please help me trouble shoot how to make the air knob rotate completely?

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## Clarebear

Hi Gramps and everyone else!
im new to this forum and came here after seeing this helpful post on google. 
We have bought a house with a series 10 Vulcan oil heater and can’t turn the air on to help ignite the heater. We can only rotated the switch about 1cm. 
ive managed to pull most of the heater out (glass, heating elements and fan) but can’t work out how to pull the rest of the heater apart to be able to get to the switch arms/rods or the control element to clean it out. 
upon investigating what I could, at this point, I have managed to work out that the air rod going to the back of the heat is in upside down.
at the back when trying to turn the air known, it hits the metal bracket st the back.  At the “teeth@ end, when trying to turn the air knob the other way, there’s no more teeth left on the switch arm, and the right angle bracket on the teeth (visible in the photo) stops it from rotating, to allow it to rotate.  I can also see that there’s a flat bit on the teeth, of the air control arm, which suggests that is meant to be on the bottom. 
can someone please tell me how I pull the rest of the heater apart, to be able to get the air control arms out?

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## phild01

Okay, you did too, I'll remove what I did :Smilie:

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## Clarebear

Sorry Phil! You’re very efficient :Smilie:

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## Marc

I didn't know that people still use oil heaters. Interesting! I used to rent out a house that had one but it was not in use for over 20 years. Sold it now and it was all renovated and got booted out.
What sort of oil do you burn in this things?

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## Clarebear

Yeah, there’s not many at all and you can’t buy the original oil anymore - from what I’ve read you can use 1.5:1 ratio of diesel:kerosene. 
we have half a tank left so instead of wasting it, we would like to use the heater to finish off the tank and if it’s fine to use will keep using it  
if if it’s too smelly though, we will need to pull it out as it’s in our bedroom and I don’t like the idea of kerosene fumes around my young children

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## Clarebear

> Wishful thinking, your best course of action, take the oil valve out to clean an release internals,  it will seam tricky but there is 1960s logic to it. 
> I have got an old valve out from the man cave and made some dogey video about pulling it apart. I don't have a heater here I can do picture of bits to undo to get valve out, perhaps post a few pics of front of heater valve and I can annotate it for you.

  Hi Gramps - do you have the dodger video still? Am really needing help on how to get the rest of my series 10 Vulcan oil heater apart

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## Gramps

Best thing to do until you get the knobs correctly aligned is to turn off the oils at the tank, just I case you disconnected wrong stuff.
You will need to get the burner pot out to make life easier to work out what's going on. 
When working right these heaters don't smell.
The smell you are getting is the little bit of oil that has gone into the burner pot whilst trying to get it started, this is not dangerous. 
i ll see what pictures if got that can help, your picture shows the oil/air rods are not fitted correctly.

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## Clarebear

Hi Gramps! Thanks so much for your reply. 
ive been working on the heater all day and turns out nothing was in correctly, it was the air inlet vent at the back. It was so rusted, it wouldn’t open.  
I managed to to remove some rust and sprayed it with WD40 and tapped it open with the mallet until it opens freely. 
I’ve got the heater all back together and just waiting to see if it will light. 
oil was in the control unit, the red ligjt is on and it’s starting to heat up. 
How long does it normally take before it ignites?

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## Clarebear

Ok.... that didn’t seem to work? 
the red light went out before any flames started. I can feel heat from it, but it’s definitely not on. 
i haven’t been able to “reset” it and make the red ligjt come back on, so have turned everything off for now. 
im wondering if it hasn’t had time to prime with oil yet as I’d emptied the control unit when checking it over, and turned the tap on the oil tank outside on AFTER I’d gone through the ignition process (to Avoid flooding the heater as it’s our first attempt)  
shen checking the heater over, I had oil in the hose to the heating element so assume there are no blockages. 
Is it normal for the light to go out without lighting? How long do I need to wait before trying again? 
if it’s not lack of oil, I’m lost with what to try next

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## Gramps

> Ok.... that didn’t seem to work? 
> the red light went out before any flames started. I can feel heat from it, but it’s definitely not on. *1. Most likely the burner pot is blocked up, not letting oil get to the ignition element and the heat sensor got too hot and turned off the ignition circuit.
> 2. The heat felt is from the ignition element.
> 3. Let the heater cool down before trying again.
> 4. No red light means no ignition element running, there are many causes for no neon light, however from your description it seams the ignition element is working *  
> i haven’t been able to “reset” it and make the red ligjt come back on, so have turned everything off for now. *5. There is no manual reset to get the ignition circuit going again, heater burner pot and ignition must cool by itself.
> 6. The  push button at top of heater next to oil/air knobs is not a reset or starter or primer button, it simply turns on/off oil flow into the control valve only.* 
> im wondering if it hasn’t had time to prime with oil yet as I’d emptied the control unit when checking it over, and turned the tap on the oil tank outside on AFTER I’d gone through the ignition process (to Avoid flooding the heater as it’s our first attempt)  *7. If there is oil up to the burner pot, (larger black pipe)  most likely the burner pot is blocked up and burner pot,baffles must be removed and cleaned.
> 8. If the control valve has been/is emptied it can take some time ( I've seen it take 20 mins on old system)  to re fill with oil from the tank, depending on the tank to heater height difference, age of fuel, the way the feed lines have been run.
> ...

  _When working properly, these heater take about 5-10 minutes to light (get a small flame) and a further 15-20 min to get upto proper operating temp.
During this start up time the flame will look ordinary and useless to the untrained._  
You are well on the way to getting this going, stick with it you will be very happy.
post pictures of the various bits and process you are up to. 
I belive you will need to strip down the heater again to cleans out the burner pot at least.

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## Clarebear



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## Clarebear

control unit blockage removed and we now have flames with a solid flow of oil to the burner.... after the intital burn off, there is very little flame and still very yellow/orange despite turning oil and air to 4. 
Time to move onto cleaning the baffles and aim to clean as much rust from the air inlet at the back of the heater, which isn't staying open. 
I assume there should be a spring on the air inlet door?  There are two round knobs, one on the inside of the door, and one on the outside of the door, on the opposite side of the swing rod. Despite moving freely now, it doesn't open on it's own when in position 4.  Not sure if this is because of rust build up or a missing spring.

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## Gramps

Can you send photo of how you are getting to the rear air flap and what it looks like.
Other than ceasing up with rust and getting rubbish in base this seldom is root cause of issues to be dealt with first. 
can you get burner pot and 2 x baffles out to clean the pot, send photos of inside pot. 
These heaters will take 10-20 min to turn off.
The cylindrical circulation fan at back has nothing to do combustion. 
The disc shaped air vent at back of heater controls itself on a weighted balance system, too much open will give yellow flames.
im trying to get some pics from service manuals to help. 
gramps

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## Clarebear

Ive got the burner out and assume these two prongs are the baffles? I can’t see any thing else that has two identical parts.   
For thr the air vent at the back, we have a duel side heater so we’ve taken the hallway back off and I’m getting to it from that side. 
i can see the weights so will clean off all the rust and inside the air vent

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## Gramps

Excellent, the rear console models make life easy for the air control at rear, as I said that's not the place to start.
Gee mobile phones are great for this stuff, that wasn't around 50 years ago. 
Pic 1 with the torch shows the baffles in the burner pot that must come out, 
At each end of the baffles is a half moon cover disk, these slide up and off, need scree driver to prise up
Then the baffles can come out, one side one direction the other sides opposite way.
They slide about 1 cm to release from locking lips, then lift and turn a bit on long axis. *Do not bend at all to remove,* it a bit like an old puzzle to remove them Top one is harder than bottome one. 
Pic2 Right shows ignition element and start heat sensor (cylinder shape) these do not need to be removed to get baffles out.
Make sure wires go back on in correct place,  
once the baffles are out you will see the bottom of the burner pot, screw drivers, hammers are in order to chip away the built of of carbon. There will be some banging, I've never put hole in a pot getting the crap out.

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## Gramps

Looking at pic of inside burner pot, the top baffle needs to be slid more to right so it goes under the half moon cover slip.
post photos as you go before putting it back.

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## Clarebear

> Looking at pic of inside burner pot, the top baffle needs to be slid more to right so it goes under the half moon cover slip.
> post photos as you go before putting it back.

  sorry, I didn’t see this until now.  We put the baffles back in so they were even, under the clips at the base and so the half moons covered each side. 
We put it back together, but without the ceramic burner things, while still problem solving.  
The flame is much more consistent along the base and there’s no more flare ups. 
It’s still a very yellow and smoky flame though.  The air vent st the back isn’t open.  The glass cover is on and there’s only a very slight amount of smoke drifting from the top.  The glass plates can move anoint and bits at the front of the glass edges have gaps.

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## Clarebear

I’ve had it burning for about 20 minutes and it’s pitch black on the glass.  We can smell the oil slightly too. I don’t know where to look for leaks  
I really appreciate your help. We would prefer not to replace it if we can avoid it

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## Clarebear

How long is it meant to take to turn off, with the flame out, once turned off? 
I turned this off half an hour ago and it’s still giving instant little “re-ignitions” or “flare ups”   
Since turning it off, the smell is overwhelming.  
As its in in our bedroom, we are nervous about keeping it

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## chrisp

From my long distant memory, they usually burn off the oil in the burner in a few minutes after switching off.  
It sounds like something is still wrong with your heater, so I’d suggest turning it off at the tank until you can get more help from Gramps.

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## phild01

I last saw one of those in operation around 50 years ago, your flame looks horrific.

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## Clarebear

> From my long distant memory, they usually burn off the oil in the burner in a few minutes after switching off.  
> It sounds like something is still wrong with your heater, so Id suggest turning it off at the tank until you can get more help from Gramps.

  Thanks, I didnt think it was normal.  Im assuming there must be a leak somewhere.  
Ive turned it off at the tank and luckily theres no more flare ups.

----------


## chrisp

> I last saw one of those in operation around 50 years ago, your flame looks horrific.

  I agree, except it has only been about 45 years since I used one! 
From memory, the oil usually ignites near the left hand side and tends to smoke/soot the glass a little bit. However, once the heater is up and going, the soot quickly burns off and the glass becomes completely clear, and the ‘candles’ glow an orange colour.

----------


## Gramps

You must remove the baffles from inside the pot and chip out all the build up, please post before and after photos of inside pot before putting pot back into heater. 
Need to make sure this is done before any further faults can be determined.   _At each end of the baffles is a half moon cover disk, these slide up and off, need scree driver to prise up
Then the baffles can come out, one side one direction the other sides opposite way.
They slide about 1 cm to release from locking lips, then lift and turn a bit on long axis. Do not bend at all to remove, it a bit like an old puzzle to remove them Top one is harder than bottome one. 
once the baffles are out you will see the bottom of the burner pot, screw drivers, hammers are in order to chip away the built of of carbon. There will be some banging, I've never put hole in a pot getting the crap out._

----------


## Clarebear

> You must remove the baffles from inside the pot and chip out all the build up, please post before and after photos of inside pot before putting pot back into heater. 
> Need to make sure this is done before any further faults can be determined.   _At each end of the baffles is a half moon cover disk, these slide up and off, need scree driver to prise up
> Then the baffles can come out, one side one direction the other sides opposite way.
> They slide about 1 cm to release from locking lips, then lift and turn a bit on long axis. Do not bend at all to remove, it a bit like an old puzzle to remove them Top one is harder than bottome one. 
> once the baffles are out you will see the bottom of the burner pot, screw drivers, hammers are in order to chip away the built of of carbon. There will be some banging, I've never put hole in a pot getting the crap out._

  Hi Gramps, we did this - there was no more build up before we put it back in. It’s back to the oven like metal on the base, and smooth baffles except for very fine ‘ridges where flames have been. We couldn’t get anymore off.
I’ll take photos of everything when we pull it apart again.  
It feels like there’s a leak somewhere as we can’t adjust the air at all, it’s so black and smelly and the burner pot is free of build up and the smell is overbearing

----------


## Gramps

From Vulcan oil heater technical manual

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## Clarebear

[QUOTE=Gramps;1090212] You’re a champion Gramps! 
IT looks like we don’t have any baffle covers  
we didn’t need to take anything off to be able to remove the half moon baffle edge covers, or to get the baffles out. 
we only had to take the side off to remove the heating element so we could clean the oil burner pot base properly

----------


## Gramps

In one of your posts you described the rear air vent with springs and weights.
pic attached is from an earlier model Vulcan 302, it is similar to what you have.  
The circular disc about 4-5" diameter has counter weights on it, i don't recall any springs attached. 
The disc is balanced in the rotating sleeve, the sleeve is moved by the air knob control ( outer knob) on top of heater.
The sleeve must move freely and the disc will find its own balance point depending on air control setting.
If this draft control is wide open you will be betting too much air into heater and will cause yellow flame.  
Look around the back of heater combustion chamber (for you accessible from rear side of unit) for rust holes in the chamber, I have seen these where roof leaks have slowly caused the combustion/heatexchanger chamber to rust. it will be obvious. 
If burner pot is clean and no issues with draft controller and heater is assembled correctly you should be good to go. 
I have seen oil heating oil cause poor combustion, but not to the extent in pics. 
Make sure you throughly dry any oil spill ages as these will smell until evaporated. Running a correctly burning heater on high for a couple of hours will rid most oil spillage smells.

----------


## Clarebear

Attachment 122833Before photo; with glass cover and ceramic inserts removed only

----------


## Gramps

[QUOTE=Clarebear;1090217]  

> You’re a champion Gramps! 
> IT looks like we don’t have any baffle covers  
> we didn’t need to take anything off to be able to remove the half moon baffle edge covers, or to get the baffles out. 
> we only had to take the side off to remove the heating element so we could clean the oil burner pot base properly

  Please post pic of what you've got, in bits is ok

----------


## Clarebear

Here is is what the back looks like - with the air vent in the open position but not opening on its own. 
The heat chamber is extremely rusted but I can’t see it to see if there are any holes.  
Opening the air vent, you can see it’s completely full of rust. 
We made sure we removed all traces of oil because of how bad the smell was. The smell came back once it was lit and slight smoke was drifting into the room..

----------


## Gramps

> Here is is what the back looks like - with the air vent in the open position but not opening on its own. 
> The heat chamber is extremely rusted but I can’t see it to see if there are any holes.  
> Opening the air vent, you can see it’s completely full of rust.  *There are two areas for you to focus efforts on, rear section - heat exchanger and front section - burner pot, I'd treat both as full strip down and clean. 
> In the day I would have put about 3-5  hours time on it, of course depending on what we found along the way. Never came across something we couldn't fix.*  _vacuum out all the debris inside the draft vent.
> You can strip down all the rear plates and metal backing plate to get to the whole heat exchanger, looking at pic, I sure it will be full of rust flakes, this will definitely affect the heater operation.
> theres a bit of work, but must be cleared out to get the heater working._ 
> When  put back together, make sure the draft controller operates, rotate the round disc attached to the control arm.
> The balanced disk will just need to move in and out an be in shut position on its pivot point when in horizontal plane.  _whilst working not the back of the heater, check that the fan runs, it can easily be removed to clean out dust from inside the drums._ 
> We made sure we removed all traces of oil because of how bad the smell was. The smell came back once it was lit and slight smoke was drifting into the room..

  *Refer to later post, the oil smell will burn away when the heater is running correctly on high for a few hours*  *Soemthing to remember, is these heaters were built in the 60-70s and are basically simple with very clever use of available methods, don't over complicate your thinking when removing and rebuilding bit.*

----------


## Clarebear

Thanks Gramps. I felt really disheartened last night but will work on the back.  I’d pulled the bottom hanging fan out and cleaned the dust out. It works but has a low air output. If we can get it working I’d happily buy a new fan. 
Donyou mind posting pages from the service manual on how to take out the heat exchanger and clean it?

----------


## chrisp

> From Vulcan oil heater technical manual

  
Wow! You sure do look after your technical manuals.  :2thumbsup:  
Any chance that that you could post a full PDF scan of the manual? I haven’t got one of those heaters, but I’d love to read the manual nonetheless.

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## Clarebear

The top bit of the heat exchange had a dead bird and a birds nest blocking it.  :Eek:  
From the back, we can’t see any wholes so far

----------


## Gramps

> Thanks Gramps. I felt really disheartened last night but will work on the back.  Id pulled the bottom hanging fan out and cleaned the dust out. It works but has a low air output. If we can get it working Id happily buy a new fan. 
> Donyou mind posting pages from the service manual on how to take out the heat exchanger and clean it?

  _You are lucky with the rear console model, you can access all you need from the back. 
The  service pictures of the day aren't much help. 
The galvanised  panel at rear comes off, look for logical screws and locations, nothing is hidden or has trick to it, remember these were assembled on simple production lines in the 60s. 
Removing the rear Galv panel will expose the heat  exchanger so you can clear out more rust and inspect for obvious holes.
There is no need to remove the entire heat exchanger, this would leed to a world of pain.  _

----------


## Gramps

Ahhh the old birds nest problem, you are copping all the problems
worth getting on roof, remove flue cap and check top end of flue for birds nest.
look down flue for any obstructions.
some nest can go down flue 6 foot from top. 
you can lift/ disco et the flue at heater end, the may be a clamp band to un do.
Lift inner flue up and set aside slightly to check for blockages. 
Flue will be inner and outer skin type.

----------


## Clarebear

OK, before I put this blasted thing back together, I’ll post methodically. 
Oil flow nice and clean, and controlled - about 1 drop a second on No 1and almost a continuous drizzle on No 4. - Oul pump and flow CHECK  :Smilie:

----------


## Gramps

Well done, oil flow good
is flue clear from birds nest?
is back of flue box clear?

----------


## Clarebear

Yep; flue is clear - we can see to the roof and there are no more blockages that are visible to us; no holes visible either.  
Back of flue is completely clear - After getting everything out, I got the blower and blew from inside the four holes at the front, and removed the small bit of debris that had accumulated at the back. I can’t get in to take a decent photo

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## Gramps

Great work,
make sure are control rod operates draft regathering at rear as smooth as possible, it is a bit agricultural, but works 
now for photos inside burner pot with baffles out.
pics of all baffle bits, should be 4 peices.
then pic of pot with baffles in. 
So close now

----------


## Clarebear

Air controller appears to be working properly after a good scrub. It doesn’t always open up while we are holding it, but know this isn’t the cause of the issues, because of all the advice on here  :Smilie:     
Burner photos next  - will do photos of it as is so show how it was together after cleaning it last night, and “after” photos for when I give it another clean to remove the soot. 
Ill wait to make sure we’ve put it back together before putting it in the heater

----------


## Clarebear

Air controller appears to be working properly after a good scrub. It doesn’t always open up while we are holding it, but know this isn’t the cause of the issues, because of all the advice on here  :Smilie:      
Burner photos next  - will do photos of it as is so show how it was together after cleaning it last night, and “after” photos for when I give it another clean to remove the soot. 
Ill wait to make sure we’ve put it back together before putting it in the heater

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## Clarebear

Burner before, with right hand side of top baffle

----------


## Clarebear

Left hand top baffle

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## Clarebear

Top baffle evenly spaced.   Bottom baffle uneven - twice as much gap on left hand side, to right hand side

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## Clarebear

Baffles cleaned

----------


## Clarebear

Baffles cleaned

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## Clarebear

Bottom of burner pot

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## Clarebear

(Sorry for duplicated images, loading them is playing up on my mobile)

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## Clarebear

I only have one z shaped panel to go on the front of the burner. 
All side pin holes are clean and free of blockages.
Cover off and cover on

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## Clarebear

Front glass edge seal looks OK - glass panels in middle can move a bit as there’s nothing in the gap to help keep them still

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## Gramps

Burner pot looks good to go.
make sure the half moon end cap sit in and down on the top baffle
the front z shape is just a heat shield
glass strips can be a bit loose, 1mm gap on aces is okay, just not missing altogether

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## Clarebear

Just to to double check - we put the burner back in so it’s sitting on top of side brackets, and between the back bracket?  
Im so nervous it’s not going to work

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## Gramps

When the pot slides in, the screw holes at each side will be flat against heater box.
did you get the half moon slips in place?
make sure the baffles lock in under the clips that are part of the pot.
did you get the air control cogs on the control valve lined up, not like one of your first photos.

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## Clarebear

Sure did - I made sure each baffle was under each of the brackets at the bottom of the burner and that the baffle was evenly placed, in the middle. 
i made sure each calf moon bracket was fitted into its holding slot on the edge to keep it tight, and covering the top baffle.  I’m happy with the way the burner is put together and it’s sitting nearly in the heater. 
i could hear air coming down the chimney before we put it back together and I’ve never heard that in the 7 months we’ve had this house.  
We put out the air vent back on the back. It wouldn’t open on its own but I’m not worried about that it if the balance is out of place, because we can manage that from the other side.  We made sure the front air knob could turn the back air vent before lighting it.   
We’ve just lit it and fingers crossed it’s NOT building up with smoke as yet  :Biggrin:  
The flame is yellow but we can sometimes see flickers of blue. The flame is making its way across the bottom so I’ll post again in about 30 minutes..... don’t want to count my chickens before they hatch but it’s looking a hell of a lot better than it did by this stage last night  :brava:

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## Gramps

So far description sounds normal
settings should be oil on 1, air on 2 until red light goes out
when red light out turn oil up to #2, leave like this for 15 min
then let’s go full oil and full air, run this for an hour to clean up and dry out smells 
run the fan as well once the red light has gone out, fan has no effect on combustion or nature of flame for your model heater 
post pics as you go to show of your good work

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## Clarebear

5 steps forward, 1 step back - There’s no smell and no smoke or spot build up on the glass which we are very happy about  :Biggrin:   
The flame hasn’t increased at all, despite turning to 4 and manually opening up the air (not opening on its own in full position so balance must be out?  
The flame cycles to a regular intermittent “flare up” then burns slightly like the photo. The flame doesn’t leave the left hand side  
We checked the tank and it’s only about  1/8th full.  
Im wondering if the control unit/oil flow should be much higher than what we had coming out.   
I think the flare up is once the oil pulls over into the channels and burns off as soon as it’s in there, then flame dies down, and flares up once the next pool of oil makes it over the lip

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## Gramps

Don’t alter the oil flow rate, what you indicated before was correct

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## Clarebear

With bit was correct? I talk a lot haha

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## Gramps

Show pic of flame and indicate what the air oil knobs are set to 
low oil flow is a slow drip, high setting is drip nearly making constant stream 
you should not/never manipulate the rear draft flap to operate heater

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## Clarebear

Just Relit it after waiting a while. I left it “one” to allow the controlmunit full with oil properly. 
Unit is on 1 for oil, and 2 for air (though air vent not open st back.)  
will set set time and leave it for 30 minutes at these settings - flame is dropping/relighting  every 4 seconds continuously

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## Gramps

What I see there is normal starting , probably 10-15 min after first turn on, it should get better. 
it is possible the heating oil has gone off, this can happen, you you be best to know how long oil has been there. 
oil that’s been left for say 5 plus  years could be suspect. You’d only know by getting rid of what oils you have and getting 50 litres of new heating oil

----------


## Clarebear

Thats good to know about the oil going off.  There’s not much left in the tank, so happy to burn through it to avoid dumping it. 
Here’s the flames since starting it. I haven’t adjusted the oil or air.

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## Gramps

Leave it running, when red light goes off, turn oil and air to 3 ( mid range) post pics after 20 mins like this.
Do not be thinking to fiddle with rear draft control, it will set itself based on the air knob setting on top of heater. 
there is possibility the oil control valve is not maintaining correct fuel level or flows. Typically old fuel can “gum up” the value internals thus causing issues.
all fixable but very fiddly

----------


## Clarebear

Ok, have moved knobs to 3.  
When I cleaned out the control unit, I read through the start of this post where you had mentioned it can get gummed up. I ran a lot of hot water and dishwashing detergent through it to clean it all out. 
I watched when turning the oil knob and could see a brass outer pin lifting, that had a circle cut out at the bottom.  Inside there was a thing slit opening that opened about 2mm  
when running water through, it was coming through fine with normal syphon like flow. 
when running the oil through, it was dripping 1 drop a second on setting 1, then a thin drizzle at setting 4. 
Would this be typical if it was straight diesel?

----------


## Clarebear

I think you’re right about the oil being off.  Increasing the flow has made it almost go out. It’s as if the oil can’t stay lit now the ignition element is not longer generating heat.

----------


## phild01

I kept wondering about the oil and if it is decades old. Is it possible to get a small amount of new oil and also take a bit out of the tank.  Side by side ignite each and compare the colour and how well they burn.

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## Clarebear

The flames completely out now, so I’ve turned it off to avoid flossing the heater.  
Time to buy some oil

----------


## Clarebear

> I kept wondering about the oil and if it is decades old. Is it possible to get a small amount of new oil and also take a bit out of the tank.  Side by side ignite each and compare the colour and how well they burn.

  
Good idea Phil! I tried to light some of this oil, but when it wouldn’t ligjt, I realised I needed it heated first.   
Not having much oil inn there, will allow me to give the tank and clean out too, before buying a tank load.  
Reading through the forum I take it we can’t buy the heating oil (fuel #1) anymore. Am I correct with the ratios of 120 litres diesel with 80 litres kerosene?

----------


## Gramps

Ask around for heating oil only. Only do a diesal/kero mix when you know all is working.
they will burn differently.
to clean tank, just remove completely the tank valve from bottom of tank, alow remaining oil to flow into buckets.

----------


## Gramps

When you have new oil , based on your admirable efforts cleaning the control valve, I’d be removing control valve, strip it down and clean/ flush with heating oil only.
water and oil in this setup just don’t work well.
a tiny bit of water in bottom of control valve is bad,
then recheck oil flows  at the point where black pipe joins burner pot, keep black pipe at same relative level as if it were still connected to burner pot

----------


## Gramps

Diesal will burn yellow and dirty, 
from a technical aspect I would not use straight diesal

----------


## phild01

I read this, so basically you will be paying high fuel tax for heating which is meant for road users.
"*Diesel fuel used in diesel powered vehicles and other engines, is basically No. 2 home heating oil. The only difference is that home heating oil has a dye added to it that distinguishes it from untaxed or lower-taxed fuels. ... Diesel fuel is a substitute for home heating oil."*

----------


## Clarebear

Thanks so much for your help everyone and especially you Gramps. 
i really wanted to persevere with this heater as it’s a dual wall heater so will heat two children’s rooms as well as ours. 
I found an MSDS online for BP heating oil so will give our local BP a call on Tuesday.  
Gramps, I forgot to mention, when I cleaned out the control unit, I blew it dry with the air compressor; when I change over oil, I’ll pay extra attention to the oil control valve brass fittings.  
Phil, I did see through the forum people have used straight diesel in these heaters with a bit of smoke when doing so.  My oil must be really old because the heater was in really poor condition so doubt it was used for a really long time.  
With the oil not staying lit once the ignition element turns off, it’s definitely a problem.  I’ll drain it out and see if my dad wants to use it on his farm anywhere as it’s no good to us.   
If Dad can’t take it, how do I dispose of 20-40 litres of oil?

----------


## Clarebear

We’ve got proper heating oil!  :2thumbsup:  
The stuff origisnlly in the tank was definitely not correct heating oil. It looks like straight diesel; much thicker than what we’ve been given to do a test run, before ordering a tank full. 
im just priming the lines now after taking the control unit out and removing all old oil from it.  
Question 1) Once the top is removed from the control unit, where does the little bracket go when it’s sitting on the side wire spring? (The bit that comes out of the top barrel for the oil control valve( it’s a little bit of metal that slides either in the “middle” of two ridges on the outer casing, or on the “end”) 
it it looks like it was always in the middle, as there are scratch marks, however it kept getting stuck in this position, so I’ve moved it to the end of the wire spring, where it won’t get stuck.  
Question 2) Is the copper tube that takes the oil to the burner plate meant to be flat, or rise up a little? Ours rises up as you can see in the photo.  I’m not sure if this is correct, as it seems the oil goes into the burner pot in “batches” which causes the flare up, instead of flowing in a constant drizzle,  
Question 3) Do we need to get all air out of the tank line to the control unit? I figured not because it’s geacity fed, instead of syphon fed.  Since changing the oil to 20ltrs into the bottom of the tank, there isn’t a great flow, so hoping this will improve without priming the tank line, when we get more oil.

----------


## Gramps

When you get the new oil, bleed the copper oil line by disconnecting athe copper to the black fuel filter at the heater.
Push button at control valves must be pushed down to activate flow of oil into the control valve. 
the bleeding process can take 20 mins, be patient.
when the control valve is full, the verify flow to the burner pot by undoing the black nut at the pot, keep,the pipe at same level,as pot inlet. 
your picture of pipe to pot looks fine

----------


## Clarebear

Our oil arrived today!  :2thumbsup:  
Im just filling the control unit now, and can hear the air coming through the system and will fire her up  :brava:

----------


## john116

Service manual here: http://58.179.56.109/Vulcan/Vulcan_S...ice_Manual.pdf

----------


## ifhaun

We had two Vulcan oil heaters when I was a kid. When gas main was rolled out, everyone switched them over to gas. I don't know what was involved but evidently it was cost effective.

----------


## tyov

Hi Gramps,
I am search for Vulcan oil heater Cat. No.10-35 "wiring diagram" (accidentally lost it),
and how to work rear air went disk!
Thank many times.
George

----------


## Gramps

Try this link posted on this thread 5 April 2019 for service manual:  http://58.179.56.109/Vulcan/Vulcan_S...ice_Manual.pdf  
And for parts schematic and general pics info: https://www.facebook.com/Oil-heaters-292767591395141/

----------


## stavraki

Hi there gramps, 
i am looking to find a wonderheat.

----------


## Gramps

I have some parts only depending on model. You'd have to hunt scrapyards and demolition companies for a complete one.
Far to often they are just dumped.
If looking for parts send pic of heater that you have, I'm sure it can be resurrected.

----------


## Gramps

Cleaning Vulcan burner pots.
Im often told that "I've cleaned the burner pot" 
you need to get to the bottom of the pot, many problems with these heaters start with the condition of the pot, unless this is cleaned out you cannot start with any other issues. 
pic1 shows the bottom of a clean pot, 
pic2 shows the pot with baffles in place, these baffles need to be removed to get to bottom of pot.

----------


## Nette

Hi Gramps,
the following photos show how the heater is starting. I switched it off after 60 minutes.
1. Burner 
2, Bottom baffle 
3. Top Baffle 
4. Red light on at start up 
5. 15 minutes after start up 
6. 20 minutes after start up red light is out 
7. 30 minutes after start up red light is on 
8 from above look into burner 
9. 45 minutes after starting. 
10 flame in bottom of burner

----------


## Nette

Pic 1 burner pot 
Pic 2 and 3 bottom and top baffles

----------


## Gramps

Great photos that will help others with their heater issues, sadly this member has chosen to replace this heater. 
They are a simple heater that needs oil and air to operate, electrics are simple. 
Looking at the pics you would first verify oil is getting into pot, Nette has cleaned the pot well, however we can't tell if the inlet pipe is clear, 
Assuming the pot inlet is clear, you would check that the oil flow into pot is correct. (refer previous post for this detail) 
Assuming oil flow is correct and oil is fresh and not old, (refer previous posts) 
I'd look at the flue system which determain said draft and heater air requirements. 
A birds nest in the flue can depress the draft and give this result eg: small yellow flame that doesn't get going, which is what pics are showing.
or the draft assembly at back of heater is jammed up or rusted thus not letting tru draft get going. 
All common and fixable problems.
hoping this can help others pinpoint their heater problems.

----------


## AdamWeinert

Hi Gramps, I'm looking for a starter element for a Wonderheat 920 Series. I've got voltage to the element terminals but no continuity. Bimetalic switch is in working order and the oil solenoid is working. You wouldn't have any service or technical manuals would you for the Wonderheats - especially the 920. Thanks in advance. Really appreciate all of the advice and help you've given on this site - the Vulcan hints and tips are brilliant! 
Kind Regards, Adam

----------


## Gramps

Hi Adam, sorry for slow reply, I kinda stopped checking the fourm as the weather warmed up.
i don't think I have 920 igniters, but will look for these and the manuals.
I have sent a pm with a seperate question for you.

----------


## AdamWeinert

Thank you Gramps. They are a fantastic heater! Just so hard to get parts and knowledge for! Im determined to get our unit going again though! Adam

----------


## Gramps

> Thank you Gramps. They are a fantastic heater! Just so hard to get parts and knowledge for! I’m determined to get our unit going again though! Adam

----------


## treilly

> Is anyone out there looking for parts new or secondhand for oil heaters,
> I may not have all parts, but might be able to help.  It may not be listed below but ask anyway. Electrics, control boards, elements, fans, brackets, screws, sensors, glass, radients, 
> technical manuals, sales brochures for many old heating systems 
> Vulcan: 302, 10, 40 series
> Wonderheat: 500, 700, 820,920 series
> Ansaheat: R42, R60
> Hecla: FH2, FH3, FH5
> Simpson
> to name only a few

  Hey mate. Wondering if you still have parts available? Chasing an ignition element. From what I believe part number is 2005-02. 475w

----------


## Gramps

Could you post photo of the heater, this will help identify the model

----------


## tony1234

Hi all, 
I've been reading this thread with interest. I have 2x Vulcan heaters in our house that we recently purchased. One works, one doesn't (which helps in knowing that the oil is good). My very first question is with  help identifying the model/type of them as they don't appear to have any indication on them of what they are. I've attached a pic (hopefully) and if anyone can tell me the model, that would be great. 
The one that does run works really well. The other one doesn't start at all. If I turn it on, the heating elements briefly arcs and then trips the RCD. Sounds like element is stuffed and I need a new one. Any way of knowing if this is the case (can I test it in any way, have access to multimeter, etc) ? 
Based on what I've read, the mantra seems to be "clean the pot, clean the pot, clean the pot", so I'll get to doing that as well. 
There was also a link to a service manual that someone posted a year or so ago and the link no longer works. The original link was http://58.179.56.109/Vulcan/Vulcan_S...ice_Manual.pdf 
If anyone has a copy of this manual that they can share again (or with me direct) that would be great too.  
Any help muchly appreciated. 
Thanks,
Tony.

----------


## tony1234

Hi all, 
We recently moved into a house with 2x Vulcan heaters as per the attached pic. My first question is what model this is as there doesn't really seem to be any marking on it ? 
After purchasing some heating oil, one of them works fine, the other one won't start. The heater element arc's briefly and then trips. I've read through this whole thread and it seems the first thing I need to do is clean the pot out (and then clean the pot, and then clean the pot some more !) 
Main reason for wanting model number for the heater is so that I can look into obtaining a new element if I need to (or even the part number I need for the element would be good as well). On that topic, is there any way to test if the element is good (ie. measure resistance across it or other ?)   
Thanks,
Tony.

----------


## Gramps

> _Edit:  this post has been edited to correct the voltage of the 40 series ignitor, my old brain just didn’t work_

  This is the Vulcan 40 series, in my opinion the best and last Vulcan oil heater made. Worth keeping and getting going. Just replace the ignitor it’s the 58 volt model. Im not sure of Qld suppliers, dr Google may help, I don’t have any in stock.  When asking around for Vulcan ignitor make sure you correctly name the model, commonly referred to as either 10 series or 40 series.  All Vulcans, 10 series, Convair, oil heaters with theflat glass use the same ignitor.
Vulcans with the curved glass are the 40 series use a different ignitor which looks similar.   if it’s trips the RCD don’t bother testing it even if it looks sound. The porcelain used in the elements absorb moisture over time and will cause RCDs to trip.
I heard of people drying the elements in ovens, this may work when your cold and desperate, personally I wouldn’t bother, hence, just replace the ignitor.  _G_

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## Uncle Bob

I just want to say a big thanks to gramps who's a great source of knowledge, and the forum is lucky to have him here sharing that knowledge!

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## phild01

> I just want to say a big thanks to gramps who's a great source of knowledge, and the forum is lucky to have him here sharing that knowledge!

   Certainly agree.

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## tony1234

> This is the Vulcan 40 series, in my opinion the best and last Vulcan oil heater made. worth keeping and getting going.
> Just replace the ignitor its the 79 volt model.

  Thanks for the reply. Apologies for posting twice, I didn't realise this was a moderated forum and thought that it simply ate my first post. 
I managed to extract the ignition element and it's got a big blow out, so yeah, needs replacing. I spoke to someone else and they said the 40 series uses a 475W 58V element, so now I'm confused ?? 
Nobody has them in stock, I spoke to a mob in SA who are getting a run of 100 of them (for 40 series) from a local manufacturer as a special order, so I've put my name down for two of them. I asked the person I spoke to for the electrical specs on them, but she was unable to give them, just assured me they were the correct for 40 series. Apparently they're a couple of weeks away and so in the meantime I'll clean out the burner pot (as per previous suggestions in this thread) while I wait (in the cold !). 
I checked the fuel flow and it was coming through into the burner pot, so seems like hopefully that side of things is ok and once I get the new element should be burning with oil again in no time (assuming I can put the puzzle back together again !)

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## phild01

Post #127 edited by request of OP

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## Rosco181

Hi Gramps
I am removing an old Vulcan oil heater from my lounge room.
I've taken out every screw or nut I can see but I'm having trouble taking the firebox out.
I realise that it's the flue holding me back and I'm not sure how to release it. 
Will brute force and a crowbar work or is there another option?
Thanks
Rosco

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