# Forum Home Renovation Roofing  Colorbond Roof DYI Install

## dreinoga

Hi Guys, 
After getting a couple of quotes and reading everything I can find here, I am going to give a partial roof restore a go, namely the back of the house. 
I do have a couple of questions tho. 
I am planning on using corrugated colorbond, straight from Robot Trading, bacically just replacing what is already there and the ridge capping to suit. 
I read that I need to turn up the ends, is that just in the valley of the ripple? To stop wind and rain going up? 
I am planning of usign Sisalation underneath, since I believe that Glasswool Roofing blankets are mainly for commercial use? 
I have a cordless drill with torque settings, so getting the screws in at the same tension should be no issue. 
We also need to get some restumping done, a corner of the house has dropped a bit. If I do the roof first and then get the restumping done later, will it cause issues with roof with regards to stress etc? 
I am sure I will have more questions as I go, so any help suggestions would be appriceated. 
Thanks

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## OBBob

Hi, I'm always worried about getting taken three houses up by a gust of wind but here are my comments, which may help?  
I think sislation is the way to go. 
We found in the past that we needed to predrill the holes in the tin ... the ordinary drill just wasn't as good as what the professionals use ... yours may be better though?  
Choose a low wind day!  
You may need to hire a nibbler if you need to do any cutting.  
It's normally wise to do the stumping first for any project if it's required, I guess it depends how much it has moved?

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## scooter

Might be worth having a corded drill on standby, even a real cheapie, depending on the quality of your cordless drill battery, it could run out of puff too quick. Even a GMC screw gun could be worth considering, reasonably cheap from memory. 
Hammer a small hole with a sharpened 6" nail as a punch, will make things easier for your drill, and prevent the screw skating off the ridge. First 1/2 doz holes will calibrate your knockometer  :Biggrin:   
Good luck...............cheers.............Sean

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## Barry_White

dreinoga 
Here is a post I made in another thread that may be helpful.  http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...hlight=roofing 
You could probably hire a proper Electric Screwdriver. 
To weather the sheets an adjustable wrench is ideal, yes just turn up the valleys of the ripple. 
If you are screwing into timber you need 12 x 50 Type 17 screws with neoprene washers. If you are screwing into steel a 12 x 35 Teks with Neoprene washers. If you use a drill to install them you will probably destroy half of the washers and that is not good. With an electric screwdriver with a proper nose cone it will set every screw evenly. 
To start the screw just give it a hard push on the screwdriver before pulling the trigger and that will create a dent in the sheet and the Type 17's will create their own hole and I would recommend Buildex screws over any thing else. 
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing properly. I spent half of my time with Lysaghts inspecting noisy roofs which where caused by uneven tension on the screws because they where installed with a drill and not a proper electric screwdriver and that included so called roof plumbers who were too tight to buy a proper screwdriver.

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## dreinoga

Tools are not a problem, got a Bosch Blue 24V Impact Drill/Driver with spare batterys. but will have the corded Bosch Blue on hand as well. 
Was thinking of using my 9" angle grinder to cut the tip, tho I don't have a nibbler yet, all major project must! include an additional tool purchase in my opinion, how else would I get it past the missus...lol 
Was def planning on doing it on a still day for sure!

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## dreinoga

Thanks Barry, 
Have read that post as well. 
Will def have a look at a cordless screwdriver, not sure exactly what you mean by the " nose cone"... 
this is what I have..  http://auptocs.bosch-pt.com/boptocs-...8&prod_id=7503 
It has all the torque settings etc

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## Barry_White

> Thanks Barry, 
> Have read that post as well. 
> Will def have a look at a cordless screwdriver, not sure exactly what you mean by the " nose cone"... 
> this is what I have..  http://auptocs.bosch-pt.com/boptocs-...8&prod_id=7503 
> It has all the torque settings etc

  dreinoga 
This is an electric Screwdriver. The Nose Cone is the Silver Nozzle on the front also known as the depth stop. This is adjustable to allow you to set the depth of the screw and when the screw reachs the predetermined depth the clutch releases the drive from the screw and every screw is set at exactly the same depth. Uneven tension on the screws causes noisy roofs.  http://www.metabo.com.au/metabo/hand..._20002_19.html 
All professional roofers use them as that obviates claims for noisy roofs. 
It would be ok to cut the sheeting with the angle grinder, just make sure all the cut edges are under capping and flashings.

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## Sigidi

Barry, 
I've been told using an angle grinder to trim corro, allows the corro to rust on the cut edge, so only a nibbler or aviation snips are to be used??? 
I recently did our forst roof on the house and have in the past done other roofs. I used to punch the roof firts to allow the screw to start, but this roof i used roof zips made by buildex and had no trouble at all starting all of them, they wehre terrific and all but melted their way through the tin. 
Also I used a $19 drill from supercheap to put nearly 1000 screws in, some I had to screw back out as I fragged the washer, but I guess I can't say they are all in 'exactly' the same depth. (Drill has subsequently died while installing a mortice lock into solid timber doors :Frown: )

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## Barry_White

> Barry, 
> I've been told using an angle grinder to trim corro, allows the corro to rust on the cut edge, so only a nibbler or aviation snips are to be used???  )

  If I lived on the coast close to the surf I would use a nibbler or snips or perhaps even close to the coast. But inland I have had angle grinder cut Colorbond lying out in a paddock for 20 years exposed to the elements and the rust has gone no further than right on the edge where it was cut. 
A lot of builders and roofers these days use those Makita Cold Cutting saws to cut roofing like this.  http://www.makita.com.au/catalogue/d...hp?tmodel=4131   

> some I had to screw back out as I fragged the washer,

  That is why a proper screwdriver is the best way to go.

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## ausdesign

A couple of observations. Colorbond if cut with an angle grinder is best cut from the back face of the sheet or at minimum covered right up to the cutting line. The hot metal filings melt straight into the paint.
A roofing screw gun is well worth hiring if you've got a fair bit to do. If not have a reasonable backup of batteries especially if screwing into hardwood.
Fixing roofing iron by anyone except a registered plumber is illegal (certainly in Vic & I assume in other states)- so watch out for the inspectors & worksafe.

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## Sigidi

> Fixing roofing iron by anyone except a registered plumber is illegal (certainly in Vic & I assume in other states)- so watch out for the inspectors & worksafe.

  Up here, I can and have done my own plans, footings (did have to get them OK'd by engineer, but designed them myself) cut my own timber, graded it myself, have done posts, bearers, joists, floor, wall frames, designed the bracing and tie-down myself, done the bracing myself too, got help to throw up trusses, put the roof on myself (no help even passing sheets up :Smilie:  ) did the gutters and fascia with help and have taken all rainwater to our tanks. I do have to get the sparky in to conect cable, but I'm doing the rough in. I also have to get a plumber in for fixtures, but will be his offsider whilst he's here. 
All of which has been OK'd by council. Specifically on water I'm allowed to do all the stormwater, but do need a Plumber for everything else.
Don't know if it's just our council or if it's a Qld thing??? 
Hopefully this will mean a builders quote of $375K to build will in fact be in the tune of $80K :Biggrin:   Fingers crossed for me:eek:

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## Pulse

Bunnings has a GMC drywall screwdriver for $49, could this be used for roofing as well? 
Cheers
Pulse

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## thebuildingsurv

Plumbing Industry Commission in vic hand out big fines for unregistered persons doing plumbing work (including owners), suggest you do it on the weekend. Often other plumbers will dob you in. Restump first or your gutters will not fall the way you want depending on how unlevel the house is.

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## Barry_White

> Bunnings has a GMC drywall screwdriver for $49, could this be used for roofing as well? 
> Cheers
> Pulse

  That would certainly do the job and its cheap enough to throw away after the job is finished.

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## Wood Butcher

Just one comment about the sisalation. When I re-roofed my old house (had a super 6 roof :Frown: ) I asked the plumber about sisalation and he siad it is not worth the money. Reckons that in time it degrades and falls away from the roof. His advice was not to wory about the sisalation, but install a whirly-bird and get some good quality insulation on top of the ceiling. 
To double check his theory I jumped up into my old boy's roof (installed in 93) that had sisalation and sure enough it was starting to fall away from the roof in places, effectively reducing its effectiveness.

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## Barry_White

> Just one comment about the sisalation. When I re-roofed my old house (had a super 6 roof) I asked the plumber about sisalation and he siad it is not worth the money. Reckons that in time it degrades and falls away from the roof. His advice was not to wory about the sisalation, but install a whirly-bird and get some good quality insulation on top of the ceiling. 
> To double check his theory I jumped up into my old boy's roof (installed in 93) that had sisalation and sure enough it was starting to fall away from the roof in places, effectively reducing its effectiveness.

  There is Sisalation and there is Sisalation. The quality can vary substantually. My house roof went on in 1983 with Sisalation and it is still as good as the day it went up.  
Old Chinese Proverb: Buy dear cry once, Buy cheap cry for ever. 
It is certainly an important part of a roof installation today.  
It helps to reduce heat transfer.
It takes any condensation away to the gutter which can degrade any insulation in the roof cavity.
It provides slippage to roofing iron especially on green hardwood battens. This can be a major cause of noise such as loud bangs when the roof builds up tension from the roofing heating up from the sun. 
Just my 2 cents worth from the life and times of a Lysaght rep. 
I've heard all the reasons why people don't put sisalation in especially from the builders who hate putting it in because it aint easy.

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## dreinoga

Thanks guys, its all good. 
I was planning on only doing the back part of the house to start with anyway, and a test, and if it turns out too hard get someone in to do the rest. I would have thought that doing it during the week while everyone was at work would have been better tho? And with all the shoddy extentions that have already been done on this place, its a wonder the previous owners wernt picked up on it..... 
With regard to the screwdriver, for $49 I can't go wrong, tho I do recall a drywall adapter on Ebay for cheap as well. 
I was not planning on doing it till later on in the year so have time to investigate fully anyway. 
Thanks Barry re the sisalation, was going to put it on anyway, I agree on the principle that spend a bit more and get it done right. 
One quesiton tho, sisalation or the wool blankets? I would imagine the blankets are quite dear?

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## ausdesign

Good firm Barry - I still refer to my 'Lysaght Referee' 26th edition.

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## Bear

G'day 
I would definitly get the stumping done first. I have just bought a house where this wasn't done. After I got the resumping done I had to readjust heaps of previous reno's as far as your tin goes. I have just completed a couple of jobs where I had to cut roofing tin to size. I was shown the error of my ways (I was using a grinder). The old boy informed me 1 it will cause the tin to rust 2 there is a much easier way. What he did was screw the tin down. drew a line, then used his tinsnips to cut along the line 25 mm (he said an 1") then he simply pulled down on the tin (working over head) and the tin tore close enough along the line. the whole length. Saved heaps of time 
Regards 
Bear

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## dreinoga

Sounds like a good idea, I will keep that in mind. 
The other option I was thinking of, and which keeps in line with my policy of for every DYI job I do at home I need a new tool etc, I was looking at a Bosch Metal Cut off Blade, about $50 USD so prob around $100 here... 
And yes I can agree that the stumping should be done first from that point of view. The only saving thing is we are going to get the back half of the house torn down and have an extention put on, so the actual section of roof I am going to be "trialing" will have work done on it in the future anyway... 
We actually have one of the guys recommended for restumping on this forum coming over tonight..... 
Still some time off from a planning/ job scheduling list anyway...

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## Shannon Nash

I was told by a mate that a TCT blade installed backwards in the saw was the best way to cut colourbond/roofing iron. 
Have never tried it. Has anyone done this or heard of it? 
Cheers
SN

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## Barry_White

> I was told by a mate that a TCT blade installed backwards in the saw was the best way to cut colourbond/roofing iron. 
> Have never tried it. Has anyone done this or heard of it? 
> Cheers
> SN

  Why would you risk any injury or damage to the blade when you can buy an Irwin cold cutting blade for about the same price as a normal Tungston blade anyway. 
Because when you have a blade in back to front the backing to the tungston tooth is leading instead of backing the tooth giving the potential for the teeth to break away and become a lethal projectile.

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## Bondy1s

As a builder with some experience in these matters, I recommend you check this link and download and read the roofing manual before you start http://www.bluescopesteel.com.au/ind...F600C04FCF6B8F

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## zendo

Just my two bobs on Sisalation ,I have a steel roof where Sisalation was uesd and it is very noisey when it rains even though i have roof insalation ,i helped a mate replace his old tyled roof with a steel roof and he used a insulation blanket it has foil backing and 50 mill thick insulation batt on the front when its used its hard up against the steel and stops vibration and the noise level in the house is much less than mine. *Foil faced blankethtt www.insulco.com.au/product_range.htm*

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## sleeping-wood

The nose cone on the GMC screwdriver will not fit over the hex bit needed for roofing screws. It's fine for phillips head bits and screws but I can't see how it will work for buildex screws. 
The cone should bottom out on the iron and disengage the hex bit thus setting each screw the same.

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