# Forum Home Renovation Plumbing  How to regrind worn tap seat + How to properly install a new seat insert

## DaleBlack

Hi 
I have/had leaking taps in the laundry, so I 
1 - Used a manual seat grinding tool to grind the surface down to an even surface. I had to constanly unwind and take out the grinder to check on the progress.  
Question: How do you know when the regrinding is successful? is it when a entire new ring of fresh brass is exposed? as opposed to just some areas of fresh brass. 
2 - As i was unsure if i had correctly reground a flat seat surface i decided to install one of those stainless steel seat inserts from bunnings. This was achieved by rewinding the spindle back in with the old washer until the seat was forced home. Only problem is, when i looked closely it did not seem that the new seat was 100% up against the existing seat but slightly forward of it. No amount of forcing home with the spindle and now squashed washer would help. There was no leaks however i assume this was only due to the tapered body of the insert being hard up against the tap wall so no water could sneak through the gap between old seat and new seat. 
Is this correct? How does one know he has installed the new seat correctly should it force in flat against the old seat surface?  No doubt my spindle is now slightly further out in mm when Tap closed compared to the old seat. 
Any images or weblinks welcome.
Cheers

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## Bloss

If it isn't leaking it's fixed.  :Biggrin:  
The stainless press in seats are a good option and do not leave brass swarf floating around either. The kits I have used have an o-ring under the seat as well as being an interference fit into the old fitting. 
They often sit a little proud of the original seat surface, but so long as it is not leaking that is fine. 
The cost of complete taps is relatively low nowadays - especially for older style simple designs with a seat and washer with spindle - so any new issues and I would just buy a new tap. 
That's why I like ceramic disc fittings. 
But seems like you've fixed it anyway.   :brava:

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## Ashore

There are replacement tap washers , originally designed for those with week wrists from age, arthritus etc , they are shaped like half a ball , try these as a replacement washer and it will often still seal a bad seat and remove the need to recut the seat.
For the lapping in of a seat yes you do need fresh brass exposed right around the seat for the best result  :2thumbsup:

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## DaleBlack

Hi you wrote  "The stainless press in seats are a good option and do not leave brass swarf floating around either. The kits I have used have an o-ring under the seat as well as being an interference fit into the old fitting" What do you mean by interference fit?
Should you always use "tap lubricant" on the spindle? as opposed to say WD40? 
I used the Fix a Tap kit see pic, which also has the oring under the seat. Maybe this is why the new seat sits a little proud? - I wish i knew they were meant to sit proud as I nearly broke the tap handle or spindle trying to force it home flat. 
I also noticed here http://www.fixatap.com.au/store.jsp?...n=view_product 
that there are screw in inserts that require you to tap into the brass to fit? in what instance would one go that far over just the push in ones? 
Also attached is the reseating kit i used.

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## wonderplumb

WD-40 on your spindles???? :Eek:  Fair dinkum, this is why water authorities, SAI global and whoever else sits on the board for Standards Australia say that ANYTHING that is connected to the authorities main be it water or sewer should only be serviced, repaired, replaced, installed etc. etc. by an appropriately qualified person eg a licensed plumber.
I hope the fella at bunnies told you to use tap lubricant and you didnt use WD40.............. 
Ashore, those dome washers are good but there needs to be a bevel cut into the seat for them to work properly, also there is a silicone compound model of the same about to hit the market which wont hold a memory, better again.

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## Ashore

> Ashore, those dome washers are good but there needs to be a bevel cut into the seat for them to work properly, also there is a silicone compound model of the same about to hit the market which wont hold a memory, better again.

  Didn't know about the bevel , replaced all the MIL's taps with them and they are all working fine and she at 85 can now turn all the taps on and off easily even though it does take 5 or 6 extra turns per tap and with no leaks , the place was only 12 years old so the tap seats were all in good condition but will remember the bevel if I use them on older taps  :2thumbsup:

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## DaleBlack

No wucken furries, I used actual tap lubricant as supplied with the tap repair kits. 
Them WD40 spraying misfits should be sent back to China. 
Cheers

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## Bloss

WD-40 - doncha just love that taste . . . :Biggrin:  
I have used petroleum jelly in a pinch but it melts off in the hot taps and doesn't stay in place. 
The old lanolin tap lubricants were OK, but the newer silicone tap lubricants are the best I've used. 
I've been using DynaValves for many years and they are as good as their ads say - and this site has some good info on them, general tap and water hammer issues:  http://www.cairnscorp.com/DynaValve.htm

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## davey1

The reseating tool that hooks onto your rechargeable drill is more expensive but makes the job quicker/easier especially if you've got a few taps to fix.

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