# Forum Home Renovation Kitchens  Flatpak kitchen - what support is required for caesarstone benchtops please?

## LindyD

Hi all, 
We are installing a flatpak kitchen from Bunnings and are going to order a caesarstone benchtop to smarten it up a bit.  As we have only installed laminate benchtops on our rental properties in the past,I was hoping for some advice on how to fully support the heavier bench? 
I have been told by many cabinet makers, the legs supplied are not sufficient to bear the weight of the stone.   
Many thanks, Lindy

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## Godzilla73

G'day, 
Depends on the location of the base plate of the leg, if it supports the carcase end a little then they can be used if it's only mounted on the base which in turn is only screwed to the end then you'll need more support. 
Having said that i wouldn't use them without adding more support. 
How thick is the stone top you're considering, 20mm or 40mm?

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## arms

> Hi all, 
> We are installing a flatpak kitchen from Bunnings and are going to order a caesarstone benchtop to smarten it up a bit.  As we have only installed laminate benchtops on our rental properties in the past,I was hoping for some advice on how to fully support the heavier bench? 
> I have been told by many cabinet makers, the legs supplied are not sufficient to bear the weight of the stone.   
> Many thanks, Lindy

  old cabinetmakers tale ,adjustable legs hold around 200kg of weight each  ,i would be more concerned about the construction method of the cabinet than the leg capabilities

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## David.Elliott

> G'day, 
> Depends on the location of the base plate of the leg, *if it supports the carcase end a little* then they can be used if it's only mounted on the base which in turn is only screwed to the end then you'll need more support. 
> Having said that i wouldn't use them without adding more support. 
> How thick is the stone top you're considering, 20mm or 40mm?

  What I have highlighted I believe is the key, so don't blindly follow the bunnies destructions, think it through and make sure the base plate picks up as much of the carcase edge as you can. Tom's right the legs are good for 200ks, its where the legs are on the base that is more of a concern.
Also an extra couple of screws along where the base of the cabinet meets the sides NEVER go astray...I see to recall there are two on the assembly, put 4 spaced evenly.

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## Random Username

Based on its performance (or lack of) as a benchtop surface for its price, I think the best support for Caesarstone is the sides of the rubbish bin on pickup day!!

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## Eden

the base of your carcass has the 4 hole points marked by a 1 mm pinhole (so the screws seat easy and you cant miss the location of the leg )locating the adjustable leg lipping it under the vertical sides for support 
the legs as others have stated are plenty strong and remember you are anchoring to the wall also ,using packers to keep the cabinet level as you tighten up the anchors ( I use 65mm chipboard screws into battens and 75mm chipboard screws and 1 and a half 6mm wall plugs x 50mm in brickwork etc 
some of the benchtops in stone and its variations I have seen seated on beads of non acid cure silicon run along on the carcass surface area 
You will find a minimum of 3 screws on the side to base location and from memory 4 on the back to base location on carcases over 450mm wide
(if you are going to add more screws I would recommend pre drilling with a 3mm drill bit and go 45mm deep at least so your 50mm screws supplied bite in and dont split the carcass)  
the carcases you have are solid backed using the same material as the rest of  the carcass and very strong  
good luck and happy kitchen  
eden

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## LindyD

Thanks everyone for explaining how to strengthen the carcasses and for telling me the legs can support the weight if properly installed!  I shall  definitely be ensuring the legs are supporting the ends of the carcasses and install extra support screws (predrilled holes) 
The caesarstone is 40 mm thick.  I am not sure why one of the posters said caesarstone isnt a great surface? I was under the impression that all engineered stone was much of a muchness?  and that it is better to go with thicker 40mm rather than thinner 20mm?? Please let me know your thoughts. 
Obviously I am under a tight budget and have chosen flatpak as the cheapest option.  I understand the carcasses are stronger than ikea, hence why chosen this over Ikea (which has great looking doors).  I figure I will always be able to replace gloss white doors with either bunnings or a more expensive 2 pac in the future when I have more cash as they are standard sizes.  
cheers,
Lindy

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## Random Username

My grumbles re Caesarstone are regarding the way the edge chips for a premium priced product.  You want three-four times the price of the alternatives?  I want three-four times the performance! 
See my posts (different user name) here - http://www.renovateforum.com/f200/dr...30/#post880664 
(also do the google for 'caeserstone chipping' before you spend your money) 
So if you are trying to save cash, stick with a laminex benchtop, as that's $2k saved!

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## JB1

Interesting that you had issues with it. 
Maybe you have a bad batch. 
I haven't hear anybody else have issues with Caesarstone chipping under normal use. 
My cabinet maker (relative) haven't had any issues. 
For the practicality and looks, I don't think reconstituted stone bench tops can't be beat. The price now is not a huge premium over laminate. 
To the poster, 40mm ceasar stone is only 20mm thick apart from the edges so it looks like 40mm.  
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

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## Random Username

From hitting google it seems that edge chipping is not uncommon in caesarstone...so if I wanted an upmarket surface next time, I'd go for real granite ahead of the artificial stuff - I don't mind imperfections natural products, but I really do want better out of man made alternatives!

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## Random Username

From hitting google it seems that edge chipping is not uncommon in caesarstone...so if I wanted an upmarket surface next time, I'd go for real granite ahead of the artificial stuff - I don't mind imperfections in natural products, but I really do want better out of man made alternatives!

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## Pitto

> From hitting google it seems that edge chipping is not uncommon in caesarstone...so if I wanted an upmarket surface next time, I'd go for real granite ahead of the artificial stuff - I don't mind imperfections natural products, but I really do want better out of man made alternatives!

  real granite has its own range of issues, and isnt the "end all" of the stone market. 
maybe look at corian as an alternative to stone

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## pauljygrant

Similar situation here but also noticed in some display centres that they add a length of what appears to be a kicker panel on edge, placed between the top of the carcasses and the benchtop. 
Any reason why, or is it just for the look?
Paul

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## arms

> Similar situation here but also noticed in some display centres that they add a length of what appears to be a kicker panel on edge, placed between the top of the carcasses and the benchtop. 
> Any reason why, or is it just for the look?
> Paul

  usually placed along the back edge of the carcasses so that it takes into account any buildup at the front of the top ,some slack fabricators will only place blocks along the back leaving sizable gaps for any vermin or cockroaches to enter the cupboards easily

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## nick2nv

Hi, 
Check out my kitchen thread. http://www.renovateforum.com/f200/my...-think-107130/ 
The cabinets can take the weight no problems  
Just place it on-top of the cabinets put some nail glue on top of the cabinets before you the lay the caesarstone ontop and it wont move anywhere. 
The nail glue which works best for me is from bunnings its called Poly ultra nails Construction Adhesive, High bond strength multipurpose use 
^^ I use that on nearly everything

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