# Forum Home Renovation Fences & Screens  blueboard screen questions

## welshy

Hi Good people, I want to put up some blue board to give some privacy from next door neighbour. I am wanting to fix to pergola that is approx 300mm from dividing fence. The 2 pergola posts are approx 5.8m apart, the height from the ground to the pergola facia is approx 2.8m. I would assume that I would have to put up another 1 or 2 posts in between & attach some some sort of stud/frame work to these posts. Any thoughts on how I should go about it. I would also like to know of a product that I could paint over that may give a rendered look. Any advice would be greatl appreciated. 
Cheers
Welshy

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## r3nov8or

Blue board is best installed onto a regular house frame, e.g. 90x35 (or 70x35) studs and noggins at 450 or 600 centres (it comes in 900 and 1200 widths which suits the recommended vertical installion). If you want it to look its best, setting the joints and rendering will give the best result. It has recessed edges, so any paint over the top will show the recesses if they are not filled/set properly. But it's really up to you of course as to the look you will be happy with.

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## welshy

Thanks r3nov8or, being external would you recommend using treated pine? Part of the frame work will be exposed to the elements. Would it be best to put another post in to split up the 5.8m span? My preference would be to not but I will do what is recommended. The ground is paved, would the 1st step be dynabolting a 5.8m length of timber on the ground & working my way up & along & if so should i be using H4 T/P for that piece?
Do I use tape in the recesses as you do with gyprock? I have seen blueboard top coat in bunnings which I assume you would use.
Any help with these questions would be greatly appreciated 
Cheers
Welshy

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## r3nov8or

Yep, use treated pine if you are leaving one side exposed (no doubt the neighbour's side!). No need to add a post if the 5.8 span is good (no sagging), but I would leave a gap under the bottom plate to keep the blue board clear of the paving to allow for free air flow/drying - will probably aid with sweeping etc too. if you are going fully "floor to roof" then I would also support the bottom plate every, say, 900mm or 1200mm, under every second stud at the join of the blue board, to help ensure the cement sheet wall doesn't sag over time and crack at the joins.  
Could I suggest though that you probably don't need to go all the way to the ground, or all the way to the pergola 'roof', to create privacy - starting at hip or waist height, and ending at head height is usually enough to create a privacy screen (depending on what you do below the hips!  :Smilie:  ) Of course the angle of the neighbour's viewing will make a difference to the required heights.  
This way you create a lighter (and cheaper) screen, can run one piece of blueboard horizontally (reducing joins), let more light in over your head (especially good in winter), and the space under the screen allows you to see the  full extent of your property therefore reducing the closed in feeling. 
Edit: If going the latter option, you should add that middle post to give support and install 2 frames between the 3 posts and you'll only need to join the board in the middle.

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## welshy

Great Advice r3nov8or, how do i support under plate at every 2nd stud as you mentioned? If I go the latter option & say use approx 3m x 1200 sheets (1 sheet per frame horizontally) As the sheets are very heavy,do you think the 2 frames with that span will be able to hold the sheets with out sagging? I would be using a nail gun at the top & sides with studs & noggins in between. 
Cheers
Welshy

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## r3nov8or

First option - Could use some sort of short stirrup for support - but anything stable and uncompressible that will stay put would do.  
Second option - As the HardieTex doco says, it can be used as (i.e. double as) a wall bracing material when the fixing nail/screw pattern is tight enough, i.e. 150mm apart on all studs and noggins. As a bracing material it will hold its shape in its own right. But as you say, 3m is a long unsupported span, and also will probably flex went lent on, and may even wobble in windy conditions if it isn't supported at regular intervals. It may be better to add 2 posts and install three frames ~2m each. The nail gun is fine for framing up of course, but I would suggest a few bolts to at each posts to attach the frames. The new post/s will be structural elements (not just decorative) and so should be installed as such. 
I'm not sure how much privacy you need, but timber screening boards are also an attractive option and is lighter to work with

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## kitcho9

Sorry to hijak this thread, just got a few questions regarding blueboard. 
We have a regular timber fence that we are looking to attach blueboard to. 
Got a quote from a local guy who has quoted us $1000 for the supply and install of blueboard.  This is for 8.5 metres (1800mm in height).  This also includes steel framing so it will support the blueboard.  He has recommended this so there is no movement and the blueboard won't crack.  He will just connect the steel framing to the existing fence.  We will have blueboard on our side and the neighbours view won't change at all. 
A few questions - is $1000 a good price? 
Secondly, is this something we could do ourselves?  I see Bunnings sell Blueboard for around $30 a sheet (2400 x 1200) so the blueboard would only cost us around $240. 
What kind of of steel framing would be required?  How many posts etc? 
Is blueboard easy to cut (want to cut 2400 to 1800).  What tool do you use? 
I've got a mate who is a renderer so getting it rendered is no problem. 
As you can tell from my questions I don't really have any idea when it comes to doing this....just trying to weigh up whether this is a DIY job or just pay the $1000 for someone else to do it. 
Cheers!!!

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## r3nov8or

I get a little nervous when blueboard is proposed for installation on a regular boundary fence not built for the extra weight. Unless it's very well built with stable footings and good grade posts, the extra weight of the blueboard will tend to drag it down over time (how long? who knows...). Unfortunately in my experience, and mainly to do with price competition, regular timber fences are made from timber you wouldn't use for much else (next grade down is for the open fire). Yours may be different though. 
In terms of the price, I reckon you'd be lucky to get an adequate steel frame fabricated and galvanised for $250, and so at $500 (or less) for labour, speed and some piece of mind, the quote seems OK. I'd be interested in the guarantee he'd offering re cracking etc.  
If doing it yourself, ensure that the blueboard is adequately supported on all edges and especially any joins, with studs and noggins. The James Hardie website has the tech guides you need.

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