# Forum Home Renovation Stairs, Steps and Ramps  Best way to strip steel balustrades

## petersemple

We have some steel balustrades inside the house.  They could do with a colour change.  We could just go over the top, but the paint is quite chipped etc, and a new coat would still look a bit scrappy.  I am looking for the best way to strip and finish the steel.  My wife has thought of getting it sandblasted (it's currently in the front garden so it's already out of the house.  I thought that a belt sander or paint stripper would probably work OK too.  How would you do it?  Also, what's the best way to finish it afterwards?  A coat of metal primer and then a few coats of interior acrylic paint? 
Thanks 
Peter

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## Riley

> We have some steel balustrades inside the house. They could do with a colour change. We could just go over the top, but the paint is quite chipped etc, and a new coat would still look a bit scrappy. I am looking for the best way to strip and finish the steel. My wife has thought of getting it sandblasted (it's currently in the front garden so it's already out of the house. I thought that a belt sander or paint stripper would probably work OK too. How would you do it?

  
For a quality finsh sandblasting will give you the best result.  Most sand blasters will not be able to give you a quote over the phone rather they will quote an hourly rate.  Anything you do prior will reduce the time they will need to charge you.  A belt sander and paint stripper sounds like the place to start.  Would need to see a picture to be sure.    

> Also, what's the best way to finish it afterwards? A coat of metal primer and then a few coats of interior acrylic paint?

  
Have you considered getting it powdercoated?
As for painting it yourself, I find hand painting rarely successful and would look at spraying it first. 
If you dont have a spray gun setup there is a product called "Colour Pak" costs about $30.00 and is availbe from a lot of automotive paint outlets.  Its a aerosol pac that has a reservoir in which you put the paint.
As for type of paint an acrylic automotive paint is hard wearing (thinners clean up not water or turps)  with suitable primer. 
Brett

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## petersemple

I like the powder coat idea.  From what I have heard it should be pretty durable.  I don't have a spray outfit, but I do have a mate with a compressor i can borrow when I need to.  Not sure if he has a gun, but I could always provide that. 
Any other ideas from people? 
Thanks

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## Vernonv

You could use one of those cup or disc type wire brush attachments on the grinder. I use them a lot and they are very effective at cleaning steel ... but make sure you have goggles (or face shield), hearing protection and gloves. 
As for paint ... I reckon you would be better off using an epoxy enamel (like killrust or similar brands) as it is very hard wearing, doesn't need primer and sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. It can also be thinned and sprayed - gives a very nice finish sprayed (but is also ok brushed, as it kind of "self levels").

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## petersemple

I have been thinking about the powder coat thing and decided it might mot work - it would need to be coated away from the install location, and it will then need to be welded up after it is installed - currently it is in two halves - one that goes down the stairs and one that edges the stair void around the top.  It will have to be welded back together after it is put back into position.  I do like the killrust idea.  We could spray it outside and then touch it up after the welding.  I must sdmit I've never liked the wire brush things.  They always seem too slow to me.  I start with it and then chuck it and use something else when I get frustrated at the time. 
Thanks 
Peter

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## petersemple

Just to give an idea, from memory the current looks as if there is a red primer on the steel, and multiple coats of light coloured (light grey I think - nearly white) gloss paint (probably enamel on the bottom layers and acrylic gloss on top if the pattern is the same as the rest of the house).  In some places it is really quite rough and chipped - going through to the steel in some places.  It is square section (about 25mm) uprights with top and bottom rails welded to it and then balusters welded to the rails. 
Peter

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## Vernonv

> I must sdmit I've never liked the wire brush things. They always seem too slow to me. I start with it and then chuck it and use something else when I get frustrated at the time.

  Hi Peter,
Are you talking about the brushes you attach to an angle grinder? I've always found them to be plenty quick at stripping paint, while not damaging (scoring) the metal underneath.

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## petersemple

> Hi Peter,
> Are you talking about the brushes you attach to an angle grinder? I've always found them to be plenty quick at stripping paint, while not damaging (scoring) the metal underneath.

   The one I have is a brass cup brush that goes in a drill chuck.  Maybe I should try a grinder one.  At the moment I'm thinking about a sander to take off the flat surfaces, and a brush to to arount the welds and inaccessible parts, the follow up with killrust (probably black, because thats the colour we have always had in mind 
Thanks all 
Peter

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## Vernonv

Ok. The type I use are stainless steel (much stiffer than brass) and the angle grinder would probably spin much faster than a drill. I reckon it's worth a try for anything a bit fiddly that the sander can't easily do. 
But as you say, the sander is probably easier on large flat surfaces.

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## UteMad

depending on the shape they make paint removal discs for 100mm grinders.. they look like a rubberised steel wool and rip the paint clean off with little effect on the metal.. if the shape it smooth they last well if it has sharp edges they  wear fast but beats any stripper or wire  brush 
cheers utemad

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## petersemple

Thanks all.  Got the first half of the job done over the weekend.  Installed it last night and now the kids won't accidentally fall down the steps, which is great.  After reading about human pincushion effect on the woodwork forum I decided to try Utemad's stripping disks.  They worked really well.  I suspect a combination of them and wire brushes would be best of all - the pads work on the flat and the wire brushes work on the ends, so they would each get into places the other can't do.  Anyway, got most of the old paint off and two coats of matt black Killrust brushed on and it looks really good. 
Thanks all 
Peter

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