# Forum More Stuff Go to Whoa!  Man Cave / Teenage Retreat

## alexjohn

Hi all and thanks for a fantastic forum that has saved me a lot of $$$$ and heartache over the past 12 months of building.
My project as the title suggests, is a new workshop / teenage retreat.
We bought our current house a few years ago, knowing it was a tad small (3x1, 1940s) and would need some extra space to accommodate the kids and my need for a man cave. 
We had a fairly big backyard, with an old 6m x 3m colourbond shed. So I hatched plan to demolish and rebuild a bigger "shed" with a third for my man cave and two thirds for the kids, a space they could use for sleeping, games and making as much noise as they want. 
My idea was 7 x 5m in size2.7m high walls3 stud wall1 double brick walldouble glazed windowsinsulated roof / ceiling / wallsColourbond roofHardiPlank weatherboard claddingSeparate entrances for the man cave and teenage retreat 
Other than a concreter to do the slab, I have done all the work myself. The only trade i will need to complete the job, is an electrician to complete the wiring.
I'm about 9 months in so far and the outside is almost complete. My budget is $30'000, and I'm looking like coming in right on target, which is really good for such a big versatile structure. 
Ill start posting the pics I've been taking since the beginning, and keep everyone updated with my progress.
I've really enjoyed the build, although working full time, with a young family, has meant progress is slow at times. 
Enjoy !!!
Alex

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## alexjohn

This first picture shows the aftermath of pulling down the old colourbond shed. What was left was a very thin old slab and some clean dirt !!

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## alexjohn

Once the old shed was down, and the site cleared I built a 4 course retaining wall. The wall was larger in footprint than the old shed, and the new concrete slab was to sit on top of this retaining wall. I wanted the shed to have an "attractive" retaining wall, that was visible and would incorporate the steps into the teenage retreat.

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## alexjohn

Attachment 114805 Attachment 114806   
These photos show the double brick wall completed as well as the retaining wall. The two sets of steps are also visible, one for the teenage retreat and one for my man cave. Trust me it will all make sense once the pictures progress.

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## alexjohn

Brickwork completed, and now preparing for the concrete slab.

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## alexjohn

Slab all poured, 100mm thick, reo and plastic underneath. There's something so satisfying about a freshly poured slab  :Biggrin:  :Biggrin:

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## alexjohn

Once the slab was done and had dried for a week or so, it was time to start the 3 external stud walls. All 90 x 45 treated pine, chem set into the slab.

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## alexjohn

Once the stud walls were done, I wrapped the building in builders wrap and got cracking on the roof. To make my life easier and quicker, I used roof trusses with a 25 degree pitch. Was a bit awkward to install by myself, but after a long day I managed to get all the trusses up and secure.

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## alexjohn

Once the roof trusses were up, I installed the roof battens (70 x 35 from memory) nice and wide so no chance of missing them when installing the roof. Once the battens were up I installed some blanket & foil roof insulation to go under the roof sheets. 
I really wanted to make this building super insulated, so starting from the roof down was my priority.

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## alexjohn

The roof was probably my least favorite job to date. I'm not a huge fan of heights, especially with a 25 degree slope and winds. I tried doing the job without a harness, and gave up after a few near slips. I invested in a roof anchor system. Cost a few hundred dollars, but well worth the money. The anchor was a metal loop that it ties into a roof truss / batten. Then i just connect a rope to my harness and the roof anchor, no chance of falling and a lot more enjoyable being up there.
Gutters were relatively easy to install, and i used exposed rafter tails to keep the old theme of the build.

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## alexjohn

Walls up, roof on, time to install the windows.
The windows I chose were double glazed. Two were small and fixed, one was large and fixed, the other large and awning.
I installed the timber reveals first onto the windows, then installed whole unit in to the stud wall.
I flashed the window with the appropriate flashing and job done.
For aesthetics I added some timber trim, to give the windows a thicker more robust look from the outside, a few coats of gloss white and they look great.

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## alexjohn

The fun begins....cladding.
I choose 7.5mm James Hardie Woodgrain weatherboard.
230mm wide, installed using 25mm galv clips, which make setting the overlap easy and make it possible to compete by myself.
For the joins, I flashed behind and did NOT caulk the gaps. As my research and experience have shown me, trying to hide something often makes it worse. And that is definitely the case with weatherboard butt joints. The flashing behind the joint will stop any water issues....and if i were to caulk and paint, the caulk will dry / crack / shrink and look worse then a neat butt joint with no caulk.
I used the score and snap method to cut the planks.

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## PlatypusGardens

Top job so far!  :2thumbsup:  
Look forward to more pics

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## Spottiswoode

Nice work, glad you didn't try to make a multi purpose man cave and kids room!!. Id hate to have to clean up all my 'work' every time the kids wanted to play.  
I hear you on the time factor with a young family and full time work. My reno has dragged on significantly too.

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## alexjohn

For the gable ends I used James Hardie Stucco (7mm I think) quite expensive at about $60 per sheet, double normal fibre cement...but again definitely worth it to keep the old look I'm after.
I haven't completed the trim work on the gable ends (gloss white timber over the joins)....I'll wait until all the inside is done before I worry about that. 
The stucco was attached to the gable end roof truss, by pre-drilling the stucco and hammering fibre cement nails flush. they will then be covered by the trim work.

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## alexjohn

oh yeah...forgot to add...ive gone crazy with the custom flashings...basically above every opening and between cladding / stucco joins i have installed custom Z flashings.

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## alexjohn

ok, final post and then I've caught up to where I am at today.
So the outside is 90% complete, just a few rows of weatherboard and some gable end trim to finish. Ill then give it all a coat of paint to protect the fibre cement, and move to the inside. 
I managed to pickup 40sqm of recycled jarrah floorboards (60x19) for $600 delivered. So once I've got the internal walls up, ill start laying the timber floors.....which will eventually need re-sanding back to bare timber and re-finishing.

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## CraigandKate

Looks great mate! You have done really well for $30k and I love custom colourbond flashings too, they are the best lol 
Look forward to seeing the floor!

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## phild01

love it  :2thumbsup:

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## Bros

Looks real good. Did you choose that truss design or is that the way it came? By chance we have that design in our house and we had a big manhole installed and put a floor on top of bottom chord of the truss so it comes in handy for access and storage.

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## alexjohn

Hi BrosI supplied the truss manufacturer with the pitch and width etc....they made them. So i guess the specific design was their choice...in the teenage retreat I will have a ceiling as per a normal house, however in my man cave, Ill be having a very very large man hole (cutout really) so i can use the rest of the space for some light weight storage.

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## Bros

OK that's good. Could I make one suggestion for the future is the kids will leave home and don't put any wiring in the dividing wall as when they go you can knock the wall down and have a big shed.

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## alexjohn

bros,,,,thats my plan. I do have wiring in the dividing stud wall. But when the time comes to knock it down, just a simple matter of terminating the wires safely and tucking them up in the ceiling. Then I'll have my 45 sum man cave. !

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## Bros

:2thumbsup:

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## alexjohn

Couple more pics for everyone.....almost finished the last of the cladding and painting.
Stacked all the recycled jarrah floorboards i bought off gum tree
A few pics of inside as well

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## alexjohn

I started the two internal dividing stud walls today. Using 70x45 H2 pine, bottom plate chem set in to the concrete pad. Top plate 10mm lower than roof trusses to allow for deflection. Will then use pryda hitch brackets to connect top plate to roof trusses. The brackets are slotted and allow for the deflection.

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## alexjohn



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## alexjohn

OK, so I have finished the first of two internal walls. All noggins and hitch brackets in place.
Was a really hot weekend here in Perth (38) and wasn't too bad in the man cave. The under roof blanket really does a good job. Once the walls and ceilings are insulated, will be even better.

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## alexjohn

Started the second and final internal stud wall today. top and bottom plates done, as are majority of the studs. Will finish the noggins and final studs tomorrow.
Once the wall is done, I've got a few cables to run for some ceiling fans etc...then ill insulate the walls, expanding foam around the windows and get the ceiling / walls gyprocked.

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## PlatypusGardens

Good stuff. 
i like the mobile work bench.

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## alexjohn

Thanks Platypus...the mobile workbench I made a few years ago after finding the plans on the net. Its got 4 on board power points, clamping rails, flush mounted circular saw....really solid. It's been really handy and has been the workhorse during this build. Ill dig out the link anyone is interested.

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## alexjohn

Ok update time. I have finished insulating the internal walls ready for gyprock. Also, installed the 3 antenna cable runs and the final electrical work. Im really pleased how its all turning out. I know its almost pointless, but I've taken my time on the elec and coax runs, making them super neat.....I doubt the electrician will even notice, but hey I will !!
Hoping to have the ceilings and walls finished this week some time. 
I used earth all insulation for the walls, the acoustic version for internal dividing walls and the normal type for external walls.

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## alexjohn

had a family friend come around today and help with the ceiling / walls.
Not quite finished in the below pics, still need cornices and sanding, but you get the idea.
The rooms look nice and big, especially with the 2.6m ceilings.

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## r3nov8or

> 

   what is that under the bottom plate?

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## alexjohn

Hi..its a plastic flashing. Not strictly necessary, but saves the wood being in direct contact with the concrete. I have since cut the flashing flush with bottom plate edges. Bottom plates are held down with chemset threaded rod/bolts.

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## r3nov8or

Fair enough. Don't see that around here

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## Moondog55

I don't see any plumbing. No toilet or sink or shower??

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## alexjohn

No plumbing..its just 2 bedrooms and a mancave.
Budget / planning permission meant having a bathroom was not a possibilty.
Kids will have to come inside to use the facilities.
The kids needed more space and this gives us that space.
They can have dinner / shower inside....then go and make as much noise as they want out the back.
For 30k start to finish...its more than we thought possible.

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## Bros

> had a family friend come around today and help with the ceiling / walls.

  What happened to the teenage kids couldn't they help?

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## alexjohn

cornices all up, just needs a final sand.
No spry Bros, kids were of no help  :Smilie:  
I'm still undecided as to what to do with the internal brick wall...initially I was going to paint it as they are not really"face" bricks. However the bickie did a neat job laying them, and other than few spots which a mild acid wipe would clean, they look great. Im considering leaving it as is ??

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## r3nov8or

Looking great. Leave the bricks exposed  :Smilie:

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## Optimus

Agree, looking good! 
Disagree, cover them up! A very dated look IMO

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## phild01

I think I would paint them, bit gloomy.

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## PlatypusGardens

Leave the bricks as is   :Smilie:

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## Spottiswoode

Looks like you'll need to paint half of them then!

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## r3nov8or

Paint one in three. That's my final bid  :Smilie:

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## Armers

Lightly paint them.... Easier then one in three, Whitewash??  
Sent from my R7sf using Tapatalk

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## alexjohn

Whitewash was what we were thinking...any brands or tips ?

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## PlatypusGardens

I'd paint/finish the rest of the room first, then see how the brick wall looks.   :Smilie:

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## alexjohn

I've started painting the plasterboard walls and ceilings.
On the ceilings ill do one coat Taubmans Prep and two coats ceiling white.
On the walls i'll do one coat Taubmans Prep and two coats low sheen wall paint. 
Cutting in all walls / ceilings / cornices, then ill fill in with a roller.
I marked the downlight and fan holes prior to painting, as its a lot easier now to see the ceiling battens and plasterboard joins.
Ill drill a small pilot hole, which once all painted ill use a hole saw and make larger to fit the lights / fans.

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## r3nov8or

Why did you split the wall sheets, ie with a full sheet only in the middle! Is just over two sheets high? Just curious

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## alexjohn

used off cuts from first wall on second wall etc..

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## r3nov8or

Ok, yeah, now I see all walls are a little different

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## alexjohn

Today was a milestone day...finished undercoating walls and ceilings in both rooms. Looks great, even with just one coat of undercoat. Tomorrow I'll get both ceilings finished with 2 coats of ceiling white.

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## commodorenut

How much easier is painting with no arcs & skirts aye!  Every time I look at an existing room I consider ripping them off to paint.

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## PlatypusGardens

:Shock:   
....what about the bricks? 
What happened to the bricks? 
Did you paint over the bricks?   :Runaway:

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## alexjohn

Brick wall is still there...just not in yhose pictures.  We are definitely going to white wash it.
And yes..painting a room with no floor coverings and architraves/skirtings, is a breeze.

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## alexjohn

Started painting the 2 new rooms today. 1 coat of Taubmans Low Sheen "honey Flower"...looks great.
Ceilings all done with 2 coats as well. 
Will be glad when the 2 rooms are done, and I can get stuck in to my man cave.

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## alexjohn

Finished undercoating the internal brick wall today in the back room, took 3 coats to fill all the lumps and bumps. 2 coats of wall paint and should look nice. 
You can also see one of the down-lights in the ceiling.
Both rooms have two LED dim-able down lights plus a ceiling fan.
I'm really happy with the ceiling, came out nice and level, plus the paint finish is better than i thought.

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## PlatypusGardens

Boo Hiss

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## alexjohn

Haha..was a bit too dark with those bricks unpainted. In hindsight i should have used a nice recycled brick on the interior wall, that i would have definitely left unpainted.  The bricks there at the moment were just too bland and meant for plastering or rendering, not really a face brick.

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## alexjohn

Installed the flush mount switchboard today, really happy with how it turned out, very neat.

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## Whitey66

Very snazzy  :2thumbsup: 
Are you going to remove the clipsal badge and paint it to match the wall?

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## r3nov8or

You'll need an electrician to paint it...

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## alexjohn

I dont think ill paint it...the wall colour and switchboard arent too different and it looks fine.
May take clipsal badge off if possible without damaging it.

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## Whitey66

> You'll need an electrician to paint it...

  Don't start this faeces again  :Smilie: 
I hope you're taking the piss?

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## phild01

Yes, and stop confusing new members too :Rolleyes:

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## r3nov8or

Why else do people always be so careful to paint around light switches and power points?

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## commodorenut

> Why else do people always be so careful to paint around light switches and power points?

   So they can glue them down for the licenced sparky to have fun with next time..... 
But the law states they can't do DIY electrical work.  It doesn't stop you from loosening the screws on the GPO to allow a neat brush stroke around it, and tightening it back up after the paint has dried....

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## r3nov8or

Of course  :Smilie:

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## alexjohn

I installed both ceiling fans this week, looks good especially with the 2 x LED down-lights either side.
I sealed the concrete slab with SIKA MB primer, in preparation for the flooring. 
I will be installing recycled Jarrah floorboards, direct stick, have them sanded and water based finish. 
** photos are a tad dark as taken at night **

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## alexjohn

Started the timber flooring today in the two bedrooms.
As mentioned before I am using recycled jarrah floorboards (19 x 63)
Got a great deal off gumtree, $10 per sq meter.
Boards are going down nice and easy, using the direct stick to concrete method. Will probably take me 2 -3 full days to get both rooms completed...Then the sander will come in, take the old finish off, even the boards and apply 2 coats of a water based finish.
The overall look will be a bit lighter and redder than they look at the moment, as the old oil based finishes tended to darken the jarrah over time.

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## PlatypusGardens

Nice floor boards.   
*mutters something about the painted bricks*

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## phild01

> *mutters something about the painted bricks*

  bricks look good

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## alexjohn

Theres a gap between brick wall and gyprock, once all done I will install some trim to finish it nicely.
The floorboards are going down well, can't wait to have them sanded and take that old finish off....will look amazing I reckon.

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## Whitey66

> Theres a gap between brick wall and gyprock, once all done I will install some trim to finish it nicely.
> The floorboards are going down well, can't wait to have them sanded and take that old finish off....will look amazing I reckon.

   Have you considered running a nice bead of no more gaps between the bricks and gyprock?
If you install trim there will still be unsightly gaps where the mortar joins are, or are you planning on filling the brick side of the trim with no more gaps before painting the trim?
Be careful with the water based finish over something that's had oil based on it, i've had a few issues with this in the past. I always do a test sample now before doing the whole job.
Boards should look great when finished  :2thumbsup:

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## alexjohn

i did consider no more gaps, however at some points the gap is currently too large for no more gaps. I'll put some thin beading up against the bricks wall, no more gaps and then paint it all.

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## r3nov8or

I would layer no more gaps to fill the gaps where they are larger. Just don't paint the NMG until it's fully cured (e.g. 7 days) to reduce hairline cracks/separation. 
IMHO trimming corners looks a bit 70s, and also leaves similar gaps anyway, unless you are going to the trouble of scribing and cutting to the brick profile

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## alexjohn

Almost finished laying floorboards in first room.

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## phild01

What substrate are the boards nailed to?

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## alexjohn

Phil
The timber boards are stuck directly to the concrete.  Special adhesive is trowelled onto the concrete, boards are put in place, clamped tight and then i drill through the boards in to the concrete and nail. The nails simply hold the boards down until the glue sets.  The nails are punched down and filled during sanding process. 
The green tint to the concrete is the moisture barrier, which prevents moisture from the concrete ruining the boards.
In WA this method is the most common.

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## phild01

So the concrete has some kind of waterproofing compound applied and then the boards direct stick to that, correct? 
When clamping, could a sacrificial board be used and screw it down rather than nail it.  Unscrew and move it along!

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## PlatypusGardens

> So the concrete has some kind of waterproofing compound applied and then the boards direct stick to that, correct? 
> When clamping, could a sacrificial board be used and screw it down rather than nail it.  Unscrew and move it along!

  
Shouldn't you be drilling holes?

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## phild01

> Shouldn't you be drilling holes?

  Ha...sorting rego out.

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## alexjohn

Yeah a 2 part coating is applied as a mositure barrier...bit like garage floor coating. 
Nails are used and quite a few...as the pressure is high when clamping, so nails needed to hold flooring down. Not sure a sacrificial board and screws would work, as you need to see the boards to work out which ones need nailing. If after clamping they sound drummy when tapped with a hammer, they aren't in good contact with the glue and floor, so a nail is needed to pull the board down.
Once ive clamped 5 rows of boards, i nail the last row so i can remove clamps....i then go along and "sound" out the drummy boards and nail them. That process repeats until the floor is done.

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## phild01

What type of nail, a typical masonry nail?

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## alexjohn

Yeah..length depends on timber thickness. Im using 19mm timber and a 30mm nail, remembering nails job is to hold timber down whilst glue dries.
Ive done 2 large flooring projects like this, 100 sq m plus each..one was rosegum timber, the other american walnut with staircase etc. 
The end result is fantastic, ill post some pics later.

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## phild01

Just wondering I was, envisaging large nail heads to bog up.

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## alexjohn

Small holes maybe 3mm across..they mix saw dust from first sand with a resin type liquid...that is used to then fill nail holes. Thay way timber is matched and not noticeable at all.

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## alexjohn

Flooring update
Finished the floor boards in room #1, about 1/3 finished in the second room.
Slow going as the boards are quite narrow, but it's one job I enjoy doing

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## phild01

That floor is a bargain, being recycled I thought there would be quite a few nail holes, but aren't obvious in your pics! 
What adhesive are you using?

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## alexjohn

theres not that many nail holes to be honest...the flooring was removed from an old stump / joist home...so one nail every 450mm or so. I use more nails then they did, but once the sanders fill them all you wont even notice. 
The adhesive is Sika T55(j) - specific for timber over concrete

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## phild01

But I thought you were only nailing every 5th or so board.  Did you mean existing holes every 450mm per board, or the boards as in spaced apart? 
I reckon it will come up  treat.

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## alexjohn

> But I thought you were only nailing every 5th or so board.  Did you mean existing holes every 450mm per board, or the boards as in spaced apart? 
> I reckon it will come up  treat.

  Yeah existing holes are 450 apart on each board.

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## phild01

> Yeah existing holes are 450 apart on each board.

  It's just that you say you are using more nails then they did, but I thought you were only using nails to hold the cramped boards in place.  That wouldn't be many nails would it?

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## alexjohn

Nails are used on the cramped boards...but also where boards sound drummy and need pulling down into the glue.
Sometimes thats not many..but sometimes, especially if the concrete is out of level, it can be a few nails. I always err on the side of caution and use more nails than probably needed.

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## alexjohn

Almost finished the second room of floorboards, half a day tomorrow and all will be done. 
Then a week to wait until sanding / finishing

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## alexjohn

Floors all done..nails punched...now a week until they are sanded/finished.
My next job is hang the front door, and then run main power cable for electrician hookup.
After that it will be liveable, with just the skirtings, architraves to do.

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## alexjohn

Today I started running the power cable from the main meter box to the extension. The route the cable will take from the meter box is: Up the cavity wall and in to the roof space, through the roof space to the back of the house, down a cavity wall, outside via a junction box and into orange conduit buried 600mm deep, trench to the extension and in to the switchboard. 
Today I ran the cable through the roof space....interesting what you find in an 80 year old house, in the roof space was an old water tank of sorts..its empty and very dusty. I'll take a pic if I remember tomorrow. One day ill take it out, but a bigger job than i have time for right now.

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## alexjohn

floors being sanded today, will post some pics when they are walkable tommorow....of course hasn't rained in Perth for 2 months, but pours down today !!

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## alexjohn

Actually...here are some pics after one coat of sealer and one coat of oil based finish....still one more sand and coat to go.

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## r3nov8or

Awesome! You'd be pleased I reckon

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## alexjohn

So I was able to walk on the floors today and am extremely happy. They look fantastic, still have the rustic charm of a recycled board, but with a lovely oil based finish.
On another positive note, the electrician was here today and did the final connection....yay the building has power.

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## phild01

Geeze you'd be pleased with those boards, bargain. Great work :2thumbsup:

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## commodorenut

That's all come up very nice.

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## r3nov8or

Attic ladder on the way?

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## alexjohn

no attic ladder. The opening you see in the ceiling is the man hole cover.
The real access to the roof space and storage potential, will come from the man cave side of the extension. I plan on having 1/3 open ceiling in the mancave, allowing easy access in to the entire roof space for storage.

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## alexjohn

vacuumed and damp mopped the floors today (couldn't resist)....looking great and so happy with the oil based finish, really highlights the rustic charm yet provides perfect surface.

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## alexjohn

Installed the ceiling insulation above the 2 rooms yesterday...was hot work, but only took 40 minutes and am glad its done.
Will post some pics soon, looks nice and neat in the roof space.

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## alexjohn

Installed the channel drain for the driveway...which is being poured on Monday. Very small pour (2m x 2m) but will tidy the front up and mean we can access the man cave via the main roller door.

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## Armers

Now that you've done it it'll never rain like that again in perth again!

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## alexjohn

Driveway all done. Got a bargain. The guy charged $400 to supply 0.5m2 of concrete, pour and finish.
When i was planning on doing it myself, the cheapest I could find the concrete supplied only was $295, so happy to pay $100 to have a pro do it.

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## Whitey66

> Driveway all done. Got a bargain. The guy charged $400 to supply 0.5m2 of concrete, pour and finish.
> When i was planning on doing it myself, the cheapest I could find the concrete supplied only was $295, so happy to pay $100 to have a pro do it.

    Is that expansion joint not in the middle or does it just look like it in the photo?

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## alexjohn

No definitely in the middle...ill post a better pic later

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## PlatypusGardens

> Is that expansion joint not in the middle or does it just look like it in the photo?

   

> No definitely in the middle...ill post a better pic later

  Some weird photo angle illusion going on there if that joint is in the middle.
Looks waaaaaaay off   :Unsure:

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## alexjohn

heres a pic from the other angle, now the other side looks bigger.....optical illusion.
Ive measured and the joint is within 10mm of centre.

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## r3nov8or

Your camera has a mind of its own  :Smilie:  Might be handy for certain flattering selfies  :Biggrin:

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## PlatypusGardens

> heres a pic from the other angle, now the other side looks bigger.....optical illusion.
> Ive measured and the joint is within 10mm of centre.

  That still looks more centered than the first pic which seemed to be almost at 2\3 to the side 
Optical illusion alright.
Weird.

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## PlatypusGardens

> Your camera has a mind of its own  Might be handy for certain flattering selfies

  
I need to borrow that camera.   :Rofl5:

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## alexjohn

I spent a few hours this morning tidying up the front of the build, removing the rubble and finally removing the temporary fence.
Really like how the front looks, especially as its not 100% finished.
Still have to do gable end trim work, eave battens and landscaping.

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## alexjohn

Started to hang the entrance door today. Routed the hinges and made sure it all fits, opens etc...
I'll take the door off tomorrow, install handle etc and then spend a few days undercoating and applying 2 coats of oil based paint.
And yes I will make sure all the screws are facing 12 o'clock  
starting to look like a little house

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## alexjohn

Had a mitsubishi split system installed today, only needed a small unit. The guys who did the install did a really neat job and for a good price $450.
Had the unit on for 10 minutes, and the rooms were freezing.....glad I did the roof, ceiling, wall insulation plus double glazed windows. 
At the moment I have the front door off painting that, should be ready to hang on Sunday...then the kids can start using their rooms.....then its skirtings, architraves, then I move on to the fun part (setting up the man cave)

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## alexjohn

Finished hanging the front door, please with how it looks and works.
The fit is a nice and tight, especially as the frame has in built weather seals.
Came up alright for a $100 gum tree door...the hardware was more than the door  :Biggrin:

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## Optimus

That step looks a little akward and narrow

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## alexjohn

the first step will not be that height when completed as paving still to be done which will reduce first step to 2 bricks high
As for the depth of the steps, that can be changed if need be by adding another row of bricks. However the step has been in place for 8 months and it works for everyone fine, so I think it will stay as is.

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## alexjohn

So now the kids rooms are 90% done and livable, I have decided to move on to the fun part and start kitting out the man cave.
First job is line all the walls with plywood. Then sanding sealer / clear coat.
Once the walls are done, ill paint the floor and then build my benches / storage system.
I want to take my time on the man cave and make it a room that is a step up from the average shed. Plenty of power points, storage, benches, lighting etc.

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## alexjohn

So I'm almost finished lining the walls with the plywood and will begin building my work bench / shelves and storage soon. (pics to follow)
Was just wondering what peoples thoughts were on coating the concrete floor.
Initially I had planned on painting the garage floor with Berger Jet dry heavy duty or similar. However the concreter who did the slab did a fantastic job and gave me a nice polished blemish free slab.
The slab has no cracks, bumps, lumps, dust or any other noticeable defect, the slab is nice and smooth and lovely to walk on. 
Given the workshop is mainly for woodworking and tinkering, and not used for automotive repairs or any other messy endeavor.....do I need to coat the floor ????

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## PlatypusGardens

> Given the workshop is mainly for woodworking and tinkering, and not used for automotive repairs or any other messy endeavor.....do I need to coat the floor ????

  
I'm gonna say no. 
But... 
Someone else will probably disagree though....

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## r3nov8or

You can use a penetrating coating to stop/resist staining but basically retains the concrete look

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## alexjohn

> You can use a penetrating coating to stop staining but basically retains the concrete look

  Any brands or names ?? 
I guess the best way for me to describe the floor in its current state, its like a Bunnings warehouse floor...nice and smooth.

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## PlatypusGardens

> I guess the best way for me to describe the floor in its current state, its like a Bunnings warehouse floor...nice and smooth.

  
Eeew.
That's too smooth for my liking   :Unsure:

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## alexjohn

I like it because no concrete dust and easy to sweep / vacuum.

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## r3nov8or

Bunnings has Cromellin which I've used on pavers and seems OK. Someone else on here recently recommended Thompson's. Bondall will have other options

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## r3nov8or

Re super smooth concrete, my workshop is like that and my youngest boy can't walk on it in bare feet  :Smilie:

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## alexjohn

It's not quite that slippery.
Thanks for the names, will do some googling. 
By the way, sourced some AA grade 18mm plywood sheets for $52 each...bargain, that's what I'm using for cabinets and benchtop.

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## r3nov8or

Not slippery as such, just the smoothness gives him the creeps and weird sensation  :Smilie: . Sort of like fingernails on a blackboard creepish

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## alexjohn

Whether to coat or not coat my man cave floor is really playing on my mind. 
If I'm going to do it, it has to be now, before I build benches and start filling the place up.
Whatever finish I need, will require the concrete to be etched in order for it to adhere properly. I don't want a water based finish simply sitting on top, I'd rather an epoxy or similar that bonds within the top layer of the concrete. 
In order to etch I need to acid etch, a process I have done before and have no issue with as such. My issue is however, the man-cave has its plywood walls completed, a nice new concrete driveway and channel drain, and brick steps at the other entry / exit point.
So from what I can gather, in order to protect the plywood walls (which sit 10mm off the concrete, for flooding etc) and to protect the concrete driveway / steps / channel drain, I would have to do the following:
1. black plastic 500mm up the plywood to protect from splashes
2. water-proof tape from concrete floor to black plastic, creating a water-proof wall so to speak.
3. black plastic over the new driveway and drain taped for water-proof-ness ! 
Essentially I will need to tape and plastic everything other than the concrete and an exit ponit for the water.
I will then use a watering can to apply the diluted acid, leave for 15 mins, and carefully hose / squeegee off  
Any thoughts / feedback would be appreciated 
Im still not convinced that I need to coat the floor as its so hard and smooth, but I don't want to regret it either

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## r3nov8or

Do the penetrating sealers first need etching on new concrete? 
...And don't forget to neutralise the acid if you use it

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## alexjohn

i believe etching is required, otherwise the sealer / epoxy will not bind well to the concrete.

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## r3nov8or

Certainly worth considering for a sealer sitting (mainly) on top like epoxy. My mention of penetrating sealers was a sort of compromise to keep the current look and feel of the raw concrete but protect it from a range of spills, but certainly not as complete as an epoxy

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## alexjohn

Some more pictures of the plywood walls going up in the man cave.
I'll be covering the horizontal joints will some 4mm x 20mm tassy oak timber. (bit of a feature)
Once all the walls are up ill apply a few coats of wipe on poly to protect them.

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## Spottiswoode

Is it possible to seal concrete with a product like linseed oil or beeswax? Something you rub in? I have no idea, but saw it on grand designs where they used something like that on a rammed earth floor.

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## alexjohn

Started to apply the wipe on poly to the plywood walls of the man cave. Considering the plywood is CD grade, it has come up quite nice. I'll do 2 or 3 coats, this picture is just the first sheet with one coat.

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## alexjohn

I have finished applying 3 coats of poly wipe to the main wall in the man cave, Im happy with the finish and the protection it provides. 
I've started to build some of the shelving and work bench, as I am in desperate need of storage and am sick of having my tools lying everywhere as they have been for the past 1+ years. 
My plan along the main wall, is a 2.4m high storage tower with a 2.4 long workbench to the side. I will have a peg board above the work bench with lighting etc... 
Today I ripped the 2 sides for the shelving tower as well as the shelves. I used my router and rebated some grooves "dados" in the sides so the shelves are super strong and will look a bit fancier from the front.

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## PlatypusGardens

Coming along nicely

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## wozzzzza

> Im still not convinced that I need to coat the floor as its so hard and smooth, but I don't want to regret it either

  don't do it then, just wait for a while and see what you think, if you want one a year or two later then do it. but if you do it NOW and think it sucks then you cant remove it to get your good surface back.

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## alexjohn

I've begun applying the first of two or three polyurethane coats to my man cave shelves. Once all the coats are applied, I will then assemble and install. A lot easier to apply now when they are flat, as opposed to doing it when the unit is assembled, trying to capt in corners and upside down !

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## alexjohn

Almost finished my first man-cave piece of furniture today, and very happy with how it looks.
All I need to do is put the back on it and attach to the wall.

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## CraigandKate

Gee that is some fancy mancave furniture! Good work!

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## alexjohn

Making some progress on my workbench. Using DAR pine for the frame will use double thickness (2 x 18mm) ply for the top. Once done I'll give the whole thing a few coats of clear for protection. 
The peg boards in the picture I got from gumtree for $10 each, bargain !!
They will sit above the bench and above the power points. I will make a frame so they sit off the wall and then overlay some jarrah, for a picture frame look. 
Getting close to organising time and can finally move all my tools from the back deck

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## alexjohn

Finished gluing the 2 plywood pieces together for the workbench top.
I then rounded off each corner and then routed a small radius around the entire top to give it a softer look and feel.
Ill spend some time sanding and then apply the clear coat.

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## PlatypusGardens

Very tidy.
Looks more like an office or laundry space than a workshop though.... ....guess you're not gonna rebuild old lawnmowers and do welding on that bench

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## alexjohn

Definitely no welding or metal work going on in here, I'm more of a wood working kind of guy.
Out of picture there's a mobile workbench I made years ago. It has power-points, clamping rails, drop saw etc....when I need to do any substantial work, I roll it out on the driveway to keep dust down. 
Still a heap of things to do in the mancave
- mount pegboards
- build shelves for paint / chemicals etx
- design and build wall mounted bike rack
- attic storage for suitcases and other such items
- build dart board cabinet
- hang a heap of man cave style pics. 
Then its back in to the kids rooms for architraves / skirting
Then its outside time: finish the paving, another coat of paint on the entire build, complete gable end trim.

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## alexjohn

Today i put up my pegboard, attached the bench top and shelf underneath.
Will now spend a few days tidying and orgainising.
Still heaps to do in the mancave but i meed to move on to other jobs before winter sets in

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## OBBob

> Very tidy.
> Looks more like an office or laundry space than a workshop though.... ....guess you're not gonna rebuild old lawnmowers and do welding on that bench

  It does have a milk crate though! Nice.

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## r3nov8or

I like the exposed bricks  :Smilie:

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## OBBob

> I like the exposed bricks

  Not so good for the tips of your darts though (depending on skill level I guess).   :Biggrin:

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## r3nov8or

> Not so good for the tips of your darts though (depending on skill level I guess).

  One hundred and eeeeeiiiiigggghhhhhtttttyyyy!

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## Whitey66

Why the big gaps in the plywood sheets? To allow for expansion?

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## phild01

> Why the big gaps in the plywood sheets? To allow for expansion?

  shadowlines :Biggrin:

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## PlatypusGardens

> It does have a milk crate though! Nice.

   Yes a real milk crate

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## OBBob

> Yes a real milk crate

  Lol

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## alexjohn

I left the gaps in the plywood because, plywood sheets are rarely square on all 4 sides. So i chose to have the vertical butt joints nice and flush. Then i left a 5 mm gap between the horizontal joints. My original thought was to cover these gaps with a thin cover strap (tassie oak) but i actually dont mind the shadow line look and may leave it as is. Especially as more projects get completed, they will start to be less noticeable. 
TR

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## Whitey66

Won't fibreglass fibres come out of the gaps?

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## alexjohn

Not really..the woolen insulation batts hold together well. If you are doing a true shadow line..you can line behind the gap with a black plastic film. Had i known i was going to keep the gap and not cover with timber, i would have done that.  
TR

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## wozzzzza

sikaflex the gaps in plywood.

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## alexjohn

Still putting off tackling some of the bigger exterior tasks..building mancave stuff instead. 
Today i made a drill storage cabinet, using the ply leftover from the bench.
Will wall mount it next week.

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## alexjohn

Completed the first of two downpipes. A few tricky cuts as build has exposed rafters, plus a powerpoint i put right in the line of the downpipe !  
==================================================  ================

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## Whitey66

Why not just move the power point to the left ??

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## phild01

Or move the gutter spout, which seems to be wrong.

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## Whitey66

> Or move the gutter spout, which seems to be wrong.

   I was thinking the power point would be easier because the down pipe would hide the repaired area.
Moving the gutter spout wouldn't be as easy to hide the repair.
Why is the down pipe not at the end of the gutter at the lowest point ??

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## alexjohn

Down-pipe was not at the end of the run on that side of the build, as I'm using the existing soak-well which as per the pic, is halfway along the build. Too many footings and foundations in the way on that side to relocate, so I made the decision to keep down-pipe where existing soak well was.
On the other side of the build, the down-pipe is on the end as it should be. 
I did consider moving the power-point, but after dry fitting the down pipe with the bends, I'm happy with it and looks quite neat.
Also, once the landscaping is done, the down pipe will no longer be a feature . 
Will post more pics soon of inside the man cave as ive done a bit of work in past few weeks.

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## alexjohn

evening all, sorry I haven't been on for a while....very busy and no time for posting. 
So I've finished the majority of the architraves in the kids rooms, as well as installed some drainage in preparation for some paving I'm about to start.
Paving is definitely not my favourite job, but I guess the fact that I'm paving the courtyard that is out the front of the build, means I'm nearing completion.
Couple of pics for everyone: The first is a cheeky poster I found at a garage sale, the second is of an ag drain that is under the paving which I'm about to start. 
And no the cream pavers in the pic are not what im putting down, they are what Im pulling up.

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## alexjohn

Finally received my awning today.. easy install and looks great... gives the build a nice cottage look. 
======================

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## alexjohn

Planted some roses in front of the kids rooms today..the outside is basically done. 
=====================

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## phild01

Would you you consider extending the brick step. It looks a bit like a trip hazard, especially if there is a height differential to the door's entry!

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## Optimus

Did you come in on budget for the entire build?

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## alexjohn

Phil, yeah the steps could probably use another brick in depth...but so far noreal issues, next time Im doing some brick garden beds etc...ill fix it up. 
Optimus, the total build has come to 33K...which is 10% over budget however that includes: furniture, blinds, split system AC, awning, rugs, TV for kids rooms, man cave benches, shelving, plants, paving, landscaping. 
I never imagined at the start that id be able to afford ac's, tv's, blinds etc...so for 10% over spend im pretty happy...still a few little jobs to go, mainly trim on gable ends and in kids rooms, plus some mancave shelving.

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## phild01

> Phil, yeah the steps could probably use another brick in depth...but so far noreal issues, next time Im doing some brick garden beds etc...ill fix it up.

   It would make the step up/down more comfortable.
 Love the fact that it's not a steel shed, rather having a cottage feel... great stuff.

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## alexjohn

Thanks phil.
Couple more pics..one from the street and one from the backyard.
Once gable end trim is up...will have more character. 
========================

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## Optimus

> Phil, yeah the steps could probably use another brick in depth...but so far noreal issues, next time Im doing some brick garden beds etc...ill fix it up. 
> Optimus, the total build has come to 33K...which is 10% over budget however that includes: furniture, blinds, split system AC, awning, rugs, TV for kids rooms, man cave benches, shelving, plants, paving, landscaping. 
> I never imagined at the start that id be able to afford ac's, tv's, blinds etc...so for 10% over spend im pretty happy...still a few little jobs to go, mainly trim on gable ends and in kids rooms, plus some mancave shelving.

  Good stuff mate! 
You've done well

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## ChocDog

Yeah, very impressed. Got to be happy with that.

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## alexjohn

A pic of all 3 bikes hanging in the mancave 
=

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## Marc

Very nice result AlexJohn ... but ... is it a man cave or a teenage retreat? Those things don't mix.  :Smilie:

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## alexjohn

> Very nice result AlexJohn ... but ... is it a man cave or a teenage retreat? Those things don't mix.

  Hi Marc...fortunately with separate entrances and separate spaces under the one roof, it's both a mancave and a teenage retreat. Definitely no mixing of spaces.  
=

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## alexjohn

Finally got around to completing a small retaining wall and gravel path in front of mancave and along side the drive. 
Total cost $150..includes sleepers, fixings, concrete, gravel and plants. 
====

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## RONCA

Hi ALEXJOHN,
Looks a treat, you have done a great job. Have a look at your council regs. in Waverley Melbourne you are not allowed to go to the edge of the footpath. Just been through this with a new fence. Hate to see you get hit with a law case if someone tripped over the sleeper that protrudes. I can see you have put a slope on it, but check your council regs. I see your neighbour has some brick work from the footpath to his fence line. 
Regards  RONCA

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## phild01

:Arrow Up:   had me wondering too.

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## Bigboboz

Hit em back with tresspassing! Can't trip without stepping onto your property!

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## RONCA

Unfortunately not your property, it belongs to council.
RONCA

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## Bigboboz

Which bit?

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## phild01

> Which bit?

  The fence next door indicates the boundary alignment.

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## RONCA

Hi Bigboboz it is the bit between the edge of the footpath to the edge of your boundary fence.
I think it is around 300. I had a bricky build the fence and he made me aware of it. Monash Council are pretty strict on this along with fence heights facing the street. 
RONCA

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## alexjohn

Thanks for the heads up.  I will have a look on the council website.  I could put a longer slope on the return sleeper, or just make it level with the footpath if i had too.  
====

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## phild01

Not just the sleeper but the soft soil and dropped level of the garden.  Someone could wrong foot it, twist an ankle, fall or whatever.

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## r3nov8or

Are Perth people are prone to clumsiness, followed by litigation?

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## wozzzzza

> Are Perth people are prone to clumsiness, followed by litigation?

   not only them but most of the rest of the world.

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## alexjohn

Finally got around to the gable end trimwork. Been busy withother projects, but managed to set aside some time this weekend to get it done. 
Using 35mm galvanised c brads to hold the trim, with liquid nails for long term adhesion. 
Once its all up, fill the nail holes and a final paint. Then ill put the finial spear up, paint the barge boards and then for the eaves i want to do thin timber batterns with gaps in between each one. 
Ill keep posting the pics. 
====

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## alexjohn

All trim done.. will fill and paint this week     
====

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## alexjohn

Side gate finally done. 2 years in design, 1 hour in the making. It's true the final touches take the longest !  
====

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