# Forum Home Renovation Pools, Spa & Water Features  pool pump tip

## ScroozAdmin

here's a good tip, when switching on your pump manually after just switching it off, make sure it's stopped fully first, I just flicked mine off and back on today and got a nasty whirring followed by a grim sounding crunch and large pool of water underneath. 
After stripping it down the impellor had virtually fell to bits. Apparently they spin back on themselves sometimes and the restart stresses them big time causing the odd complete disintegration. Wish I'd known that this morning  :Mad: . Thankfully the decent guy at the pool shop leant me a complete pump  :Eek:  for xmas while the new parts get here, now that is service  :brava:

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## watson

Whoops!

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## ScroozAdmin

Incidentally,  I didn't realise these pumps have pretty large capacitors fitted to boost the start, (the big cylindrical battery looking thing with some wires attached).  
These are really dangerous as they store large amounts of electricity so even though you may have unplugged the pump thinking your safe it can still give you a major belt, electrical pump problems are definately best left to the experts. :2thumbsup:

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## trebor

When the capacitor fails the pump will not always start in the correct direction, if it starts in the incorrect direction the impellor will be unwound from th end of the motor spindal damaging both threads.  Its happend to me.  It cost me $350 to have it fixed I should of brought a new one! :Blush7:

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## lostwombat

I have had the same problem when everything seemed to happen at once, first I noticed that the pump would not hold its prime when turned off. At the same time the water level in the pool seemed to be going down as well. Then one day I discovered the motor was running but no pressure. Disassembled the pump to find the impellor had come off the shaft, stripped the thread in the impellor, but only slightly damaged the thread on the shaft which was repairable, found a 2nd hand impellor which was refitted (with a little locktite) .
I then found the 3 way valve was stuffed which was replaced, hence no prime & also why it was loosing water. 
Then all OK until I discovered that as above sometimes the motor would start up & make a terrible noise (sounds something like a bearing gone) & was not pumping which I turned off immediately & actually I had to monitor the start times to ensure it didn't start up doing that. 
It was probably rotating in the wrong direction, as stated by trebor, so I removed the top cover to check the capacitor which was split open with a large solidified lump of some liquid out one side & the case melted & distorted, so I need to find a new capacitor for an Onga LTP750 pump - CBB60 20uf +/- 5% 450 VOLT AC 50Hz 25/85~450HPFNT.
Hope this helps someone else.

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## lostwombat

Just an update on the pump capacitor, got one from the local pool shop for $20 although you can also get them from Jaycar - $16.95. I also noticed before I replaced the capacitor that when it did start normally (as in the right direction, without the terrible noise it makes in reverse) it also seemed to run hotter, to the extent that after about 1 1/2 - 2 hours the overtemp switch turned it off as it was obviously getting too hot.
Replaced the capacitor now everything is working fine : Total cost 
1x 40mm 3 way valve, 2x 40mm elbows, 2x 40mm couplings - $38.50
2nd hand impeller - $15
Capacitor - $20
Total - $73.50
A lot cheaper than a new pump etc
Cheers  :Biggrin:

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## lostwombat

Just an update on the pump which is still working perfectly since above repair & below some additional info on now running the Pool Pump on the Tariff 33 rather than T11.
Since we had a Tariff 33 (& also a T31) circuit installed when we built the house & had various appliances wired to it. But due to the daily "power off factor" the pump was put on T11 & not connected to T33 & back then I researched the possibilies of some sort of mechanical time clock to keep the clock going when the power is off but it all seemed too complicated, so I gave up as it sounded as if I would have to replace the whole chlorinator.
Have since found a Grasslin (FM1QRTUZH) time clock, which is the same type as the original but has a battery backup & is a direct replacement into the Salt King Deluxe chlorinator. Changed them over & allowed the battery the 72 hours to charge itself fully & then put the pump on to the T33 circuit & set the "on" times on the clock so the pump didn't start during their load shedding period which here in SE Qld is between 4.00PM & 9.00PM as far as I know although on checking the LCR it doesn't seem to go off until sometime between 5.30 & 6.00PM till around 8.30PM. Anyway with the T33 "currently" @ 12.862 cents per Kwh against the T11 @ 21.351 Kwh it should produce some savings on running the pool pump & luckily we don't have one of their rip off smart meters, just three of the old analogue type meters.
Just thought it might help someone else, what with the electricity companies ripping us off blind with their constantly rising charges !
Cheers

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