# Forum Home Renovation Tools & Products  Time to buy a sander

## bassmann

Hi there, 
Its time for me to buy an orbital sander for my reno as I'm sick of doing this by hand... 
Not really sure what to go for so looking for some recommendations in the $100 mark.
Also whats better, a circular randm orbit or a rectangular base? 
It will be used for general sanding, i.e. paint prep, timber etc, not heavy use like a belt sander.
Considerations would be finish quality, dusts collection and build quality. 
Thanks, 
Bassmann

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## TonyB

What are you going to sand? Larger flat areas like doors or architraves and the like. For the latter I am very happy with my Metabo detail sander  METABO 300w Orbital Triangular Sander | Total Tools though it's twice your budget. It replaced a similar Ryobi one which self destructed (nylon gears) after quite a bit of heavy use.

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## bassmann

> What are you going to sand? Larger flat areas like doors or architraves and the like. For the latter I am very happy with my Metabo detail sander  METABO 300w Orbital Triangular Sander | Total Tools though it's twice your budget. It replaced a similar Ryobi one which self destructed (nylon gears) after quite a bit of heavy use.

  I expect flat areas so doors, arcs, window frames etc.
Interesting you recommended a detail sander. Are these for finishing rather than something like this AEG or no difference?  AEG 300W Gold Orbital Sander - Bunnings Warehouse 
I was thinking to use the sander to get the bulk and finish by hand with a finer grit. Or am i approahing this the wrong way? 
Regards, 
Bassmann

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## TonyB

The AEG should be fine on larger flat areas. The plus of the detail sander in being able to get into internal corners such as window linings next to the frame corners.

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## whitey56

I am striping paint off architraves at the moment and found the basic orbital the best for them and do the tight bits with a Delta sander, I tried my R/O sander on them but it was knocking the pad around to much. 
Having said that what i am doing now is using paint stripper first,  then power sanders, then finish by hand with different size blocks i cut.
It's taking forever and i have lost interest in the job, after all the Pro's wouldn't go to that much trouble but they know what they are doing.
Let us know if you get a $100 sander effective dust collection as i haven't yet 
Good Luck

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## grantbudd

get a good half or third sheet sander for doors and just keep it moving. I have used orbital sanders with velcro pads and they SUCK! the pads lose the grip way before the grit is worn so a total waste of money unless you use spray adhesive. Ill never by tools intended for hard work from Bunnings as they dont really last although AEG I know nothing about and they are now getting Makita in but I still doubt it  :Redface: ) 
I used a Hitachi third sheet sander with no dramas although I burned through one as I was doing a LOT of sanding! Walls and doors so hours with no rest so let the sander cool off and don't run it until it gets hot. 
I also used a Dewalt variable speed sander/polisher but you have to be careful as it can chew through doors very quickly! I think its all about the right grit and the right pressure. Sounds like you will need a detail sander too or some old fashioned elbow grease? 
Sanding is hard work and expensive given the time and money spent on paper and new power and tools. Maybe look at a replacement cost of doors and skirting too as you still need to paint  :Redface: )

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## johnc

A Bosch PEX 400AE or similar may suit your needs. Reasonable build quality for handyman work, dust extraction and you should be able to find one for $120 to $160. Metabo and Makita both have a good product as well and I would have a good look at the Metabo range first, dust extraction connection is a little friendlier as well on the Metabo assuming Bosch still have their odd shaped dust port.

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## Micky013

If your looking for a cheap sander for doors etc, you cant go past the Ozito R/O sander. For $40.00 you get enough grunt to sand through the wood and its got 3 year replacement warranty. I went through 2 of them over 5 years (home use) - got the first one replaced no q's asked and just ditched the second and bought a festool rotex 150. 
Its all in the paper. Make sure you get good quality paper and use the appropriate grits. As for the hook and loop pads - they only come loose through miss-use in my experience and ive used R/O sanders alot (coming from floor sanding).

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## Gaza

> I have used orbital sanders with velcro pads and they SUCK! the pads lose the grip way before the grit is worn so a total waste of money unless you use spray adhesive.

  
mate you are meant to put sanderpaper on the sander not just sand uisng velcro, 
we use obritals 95% time with differnt grits, we use festool

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## jimj

Totally agree with the Festool advice. Yes they are expensive but when you see the versatility of the Rotex from sanding off very rough timber  24 grit to smooth to sanding 400 grit to polish . I have totally killed 2 and have another 3 at the moment. They are the backbone of my work. 
In a normal situation you will never kill it and they will last a lifetime.
 Many houses I work at have beautiful outdoor timber tables that have weathered and look like crap. I will often ( for free) offer to sand off the table top.  I can usually sand it back to 120-150 grit in around 30 minutes. Then the owner can easily coat with the product of their choice. As others have said the quality of the abrasives is equally as important.  
jimj     restore-a-deck.com.au

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## Bloss

> I have used orbital sanders with velcro pads and they SUCK! the pads lose the grip way before the grit is worn so a total waste of money unless you use spray adhesive.)

  If the paper is coming off the velcro that is most commonly operator error - using too much downward pressure and so not letting the grit do the cutting. The best sanding needs the correct grit for the job and only sufficient pressure to maintain good control of the machine - too much and the pad heats up and the velcro 'claws' soften and release. We are all impatient and want to have the sandpaper remove as much as we can in the shortest time, but mostly it's as you said 'just keep it moving'. For tough jobs it will need multiple passes with multiple grits from coarser to finer. Good tools make a difference, but good results can be achieved with cheaper tools too.

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