# Forum More Stuff Go to Whoa!  New shed build, move old one first.

## wozzzzza

I got permission from body corporate to build a new storage shed down the back, getting rid of the over loaded 9m2 crappy garden shed that's falling apart, rusted out nicely, dented, leaking and what ever else can go wrong with a shed is wrong with it, and replace with a nice new PROPER shed 19m2 in size.
started off easily, total span said I could get a kit shed and build it myself no worries, put the plans into council, they then asked who the builder was, I said owner builder, they said not going to happen get a builder, application approved pending builder.
so after a while of looking for a builder to assist me found no one that will help me for less than total span will build it for me for, so I have to pay them to build the shed, all because it is a commercial property, what a load of crap for a pissy little storage shed. 
Any way, finally got the contract going with total span, I can lay the "structural" slab myself, but I cant build the shed on it. go figure.
so I started moving old shed today over the other side of the yard ready to put in the new one, had to take down the old and put it back up again and move the stuff into it to keep it secure and not get wet while new shed gets built over the next 2 months.
I don't have a lot of time to do this so the slab will get done slowly in stages over the next month or so. 
here are some of the pictures to start off with, moving the old shed. 
we have a picture of the main switchboard that I have to dig a trench to for running power later on.
the last picture all that crap is pretty much rubbish and will be thrown out gradually bin space permitting, including slab.

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## wozzzzza

day 2, spent about half an hour on it today, had other work on, but one bonus, theres no steel in the existing slab so that will make it easier to jack hammer up.

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## wozzzzza

day 3, jackhammer up slab and slowly move it to the bin. I will move as much as I can to the big bin 3 times a week to get picked up by garbo, cant put too much in it at a time else it cant be lifted. sow ill take a few weeks.
I measured and laid out the new slab dimensions today, got it within a couple of millimeteres to engineers specs both diagonal and side measurements.
I cut along the lines with angle grinder, next step get rid of the bitumen.
that slab that was down there was put down in about 4 or more pours, several layers from 10mm thick at the back to 190mm at the front. full of pieces of brick, pavers, several short pieces of reo and a few short star pickets.

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## PlatypusGardens

Lots of (manual) work there.   :Smilie:

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## wozzzzza

tell me about it.

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## wozzzzza

4th day on the job, excavation day. started at lunch time, got this done in 4 hours. got 4 more hours of this machine tomorrow as well.
yes I went through the pipe on purpose in the ditch if you see it, I need to join into it for the shed storm water so I thought stuff it, I need to cut it any way so just dig through it, easier.
but man, this excavator was the go, pissed it in, glad I didn't go with the dingo, wouldn't have done it. and to think I was going to dig this manually, I was out of my mind, soo difficult, soo many tree roots to get through, soo much bitumen to lift, no way I could have don't this in a month by hand.
all going good so far.

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## PlatypusGardens

Ah, gotta love mechanical shovels    :Smilie:

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## wozzzzza

didn't really do much today, just excavated a bit by hand where the excavator wouldn't reach to run the conduit for the power.
all signed off by electrician, he said fill it in and add the tape at 100mm above the conduit and keep filling in. I'm still to add the comms conduit for network, tomorrow job.
all joins are glued as well.
so probably tomorrow job.

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## PlatypusGardens

Hmm, so where is this shed? 
In a communal carpark?
Are you in a unit/townhouse?
You mentioned body corp, and the shed is on tarmac "out the back"    :Smilie:

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## wozzzzza

shed down the back, not in car park, never been a carpark there, block of units, was an old garden shed there, yes body corporate, yes they have approved it, yes council has approved it, yes I'm doing everything by the book, yes its legit.

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## PlatypusGardens

> yes body corporate, yes they have approved it, yes council has approved it, yes I'm doing everything by the book, yes its legit.

  Hehe I wasn't grilling you about the approval....  
Nah just looking at the pic with the skip, made me wonder if it was the same tarmac/carpark as where the shed is going, that's all   :Smilie:     
Carry on

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## Marc

So you did get the excavator, good for you, a small bobcat or dingo wouldn't have done it

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## wozzzzza

yep. thanks for suggestion and pointing me right there. its possible the dingo might have done it but would have taken a lot longer and would need some assistance with a jack hammer.

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## Bros

How much was the hire of the digger?

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## Marc

Is/was it a 1.5 or a 2tn? Kubota? 
You are using it with the narrow track, You can open up the tracks for more stability.

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## wozzzzza

$240 for the day i think it was plus $55 deliver and $55 pick up as I don't have a tow bar.
1.5T I think it was, that's all I know about it. no idea the track could be made wider or narrower, it was stable enough as it was. 
started filling in the trench today, will put in a T join in the stormwater pipe tomorrow for the shed connection.

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## wozzzzza

another day down, got the storm water in and filled in the trench.
9 days until the pour.

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## travelislife

Looking good! Hope you have put some temporary caps over your conduit and piping!

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## wozzzzza

yep I taped up all open ends just after that photo so they don't get full of crap.

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## wozzzzza

well after a few days of ran I'm back on track, forgot to take pics of the ground before I started putting the plastic over it, but I got my laser level out and levelled off the ground, then have dug up the thickening around the edges as per the engineering diagrams, then put up the formwork and using laser level I got it nice and level all round, 75mm formwork at the back and 180mm formwork at the front corner near the conduit sticking up, stuck the wire in now the pour is happening tomorrow morning after having been put off several days now due to crap weather.

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## Bros

Doing it the cheap way without chairs.

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## wozzzzza

no no, just haven't put them in yet, they will be going in tomorrow, I just laid the reo flat as I have to put stands on it tonight to put a tarp over it incase it rains overnight so I don't wake up in the morning with a mote around the castle.
as soon as I start in the morning, the stools will be going in once the tarp is off and no rain in sight.

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## wozzzzza

well here's the pour day pics.
I am not happy at all with the finish I did with it, I think I left it too late to do final polish up on it and now its turned all crumbly on the surface on a third of it.
And bros, the first picture is for you showing the stools.
here is a timelapse video of it all as well. https://youtu.be/VK9aUFK50nM

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## PlatypusGardens

Nice work, love the video!

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## wozzzzza

shed is starting to go up today by a single alone installer.

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## wozzzzza

todays solo effort by installer

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## PlatypusGardens

That'd be tricky to do by yourself.....

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## wozzzzza

yeah he reckons its not easy by himself but his helper is not well. takes 2 men 2 days to do it, he has taken 2 days now by himself 7am-5pm.

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## wozzzzza

here we go, all done.
I just have to put in the plumbing and tell the council to come inspect, then I will make up a good decent beefy door and beefy frame and it will be totally done.

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## Uncle Bob

Didn't want windows Woz?

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## wozzzzza

na no windows, just something for someone to smash and look through to see whats in there. no need for roller door either, just not something needed, just a storage shed, not going to be doing much work or anything in there. will be putting some 12v LED lights in there soon enough as soon as electrician puts a power point or two in there.

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## Bros

Shed is to small.

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## Uncle Bob

> na no windows, just something for someone to smash and look through to see whats in there.

  Not trying to sound negative, but I would have at least had a couple of "Novalight" sheets in the roof. I could understand it might get a bit warm in there with them though.
Looks like that it's well braced!

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## wozzzzza

yeah its small compared to many out there but its got 3 times the storage space than the old one and we could really go any bigger. it will do me fine.
I was thinking about clear sheets but thought stuff it, only storage shed and it will have lights.
being Cairns it will get warm no matter what.
yeah its well braced ready for the cyclone that is overdue here.

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## Bros

Now is the appearance of the floor an issue anymore now the job is almost complete?

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## wozzzzza

yeah the floor not too bad I guess, ya right, not too bad, I can get used to it.

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## PlatypusGardens

> Shed is to small.

  
.....said everyone, always, regardless.......

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## PlatypusGardens

> Not trying to sound negative, but I would have at least had a couple of "Novalight" sheets in the roof. I could understand it might get a bit warm in there with them though.
> Looks like that it's well braced!

  
My shed is about half/half tin/opaque sheets.  
While the opaque ones let light in it gets HOT standing under them.
It's a different heat from the tin sheets. 
A tin shed still gets hot though.
But if it's just storage shed and not a work shed it's not a biggie.  
Whirly birds help though.    :Smilie:

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## wozzzzza

I'm planning on putting one of these in there with a bit of ducting to the outside and a vent for ventilation. need air circulation to stop mould and moisture build up inside and it will store paint and stuff, don't want fumes accumulating. TT Mixflow inline fan 100mm with lead and plug | Pure Ventilation

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## PlatypusGardens

I have one of those (but a bit bigger).....that's good for extracting lots of fumes/air.  
you really don't need to get that carried away to get a bit of circulation.
A whirly bird in the middle of the roof and a couple of air inlets at floor level, opposed corners, will keep the air flowing nicely.
Hot air rises, whirly spins, sucks air from ground level, creates its own momentum.    :Smilie:

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## wozzzzza

if you look at my first post here, I had 2 x 100mm computer fans on solar panel that worked reasonably, but this shed a lot bigger so going a bit bigger.

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## PlatypusGardens

> if you look at my first post here, I had 2 x 100mm computer fans on solar panel that worked reasonably, but this shed a lot bigger so going a bit bigger.

  Right.....is that what that is in the pics......? 
Anyway you do what you want but having a big fan like that running just to keep some paint fumes out of a storage shed seems like overkill to me.

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## wozzzzza

yeah I might think again about it, smaller fan maybe. Axial VKO In Line Fan 100mm | Pure Ventilation

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## Uncle Bob

If you want great ventilation, you could have the ridge flashing mounted on standoffs. As hot air rises it would suck cooler air in at the bottom and the hot would go out the now open apex of the roof.

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## wozzzzza

yes that's an idea, but probably get water blown in as well with the weather we get up here at times.

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## commodorenut

Yes, that's the problem with a raised ridge.  I learnt that the hard way when I re-roofed my old double-garage sized shed.  Dirt & leaves would also accumulate & blow under the ridge, ending up inside.  And a decent southerly would push the rain under. 
Worked really well for passive cooling through, as the "eaves" weren't filled, so air had a straight path in the huge gaps above the top plate, between each rafter.  It was cooler in the shed than under the carport in front of it. 
I like the idea of a solar powered fan - additional cooling when the sun is at it's hottest.  One negative for whirlybirds near the coast is drawing in salty air, and causing things like lathe beds & drill stands to gain a layer of surface rust real quick compared to similar sheds inland.  Several mates in coastal locations have since removed them to reduce the issue.

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## wozzzzza

fan it is. I'm going to silicone up the small gaps in the ridge so water doesn't blow in.

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## wozzzzza

keep forgetting to post this picture, at least 25 year old tube of silicone I found about 500mm under ground as I was digging the trench for the conduit.
must have had the property built up or something at the back as its higher than the surrounding properties and tapers towards the road way.

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## phild01

> keep forgetting to post this picture, at least 25 year old tube of silicone I found about 500mm under ground as I was digging the trench for the conduit.
> must have had the property built up or something at the back as its higher than the surrounding properties and tapers towards the road way.

  Might say siliconised but doubt you get water clean-up silicone.

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## Whitey66

Don't they use sisalation or similar to insulate sheds up there in QLD?
That mesh on the slab pour seems to be sitting at the bottom of the slab, I didn't see one person pull it up to the centre of the slab when filling, where it should be. Was it even sitting on the chairs? because it didn't seem to spring down much when they were walking on it.

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## phild01

When I had my driveway done they removed the chairs but I was there getting them back in again.

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## wozzzzza

> That mesh on the slab pour seems to be sitting at the bottom of the slab, I didn't see one person pull it up to the centre of the slab when filling, where it should be. Was it even sitting on the chairs? because it didn't seem to spring down much when they were walking on it.

   its on 70mm chairs, I think or 60, and the slab is 100-110mm thick.

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## Whitey66

Yes I saw your photo, but the video shows a very different story (mesh is not even on chairs ). When it is chaired up properly you should see it springing up and down when walking and barrowing on it. You also have to usually lift it up a bit as you go as the concrete that is poured in pushes it down. It is common practice to remove the chairs where the barrow is running and workers are walking to prevent bending of the mesh, but these should be refitted and the mesh pulled up to the correct height as it's filled. If it's not being driven on, it won't be such an issue, but for your next slab, and for others looking at your post it's something to look out for. Please don't think i'm having a go at you, just trying to offer some advice.

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## wozzzzza

all good, I did think of it, but couldn't stuffed.

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## wozzzzza

starting the door frame today, ripped the old one out to start again, 50x50x3mm SHS steel being used. put in the top of the frame, welded it on the ends to the shed frame so its nice and solid, I'm going to run power wires in it to a power point above the door for the network controller and stuff. got the door frame hinged side sitting in there, will weld that tomorrow to the top and bolt to the concrete slab, already welded the brackets on.

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## Bros

Network controller? What are you doing in this shed?

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## wozzzzza

well I want monitored electronic access, there will be an internet access point on the roof, also a CCTV camera will be connected as well to it.
should have said access controller not network controller.

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## Bros

> well I want monitored electronic access, there will be an internet access point on the roof, also a CCTV camera will be connected as well to it..

   Well you will live in these undesirable neighbourhoods.

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## wozzzzza

it aint the best, but far from the worst as well. but cairns in general has a high crime rate with all the youth unemployment, by choice as well I hear mostly.

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## wozzzzza

welding up the door frame, going to put 3mm aluminium chequer plate on the front of it.
only half done the frame, yet to put in the cross supports and clean up the welds, using gasless mig wire
using a lockwood mortice lock I picked up off ebay from Sydney brand new from a lock smith there at half the price I can get them up here.
once door all done will send down for powder coating.
Also, power points got put in on Monday, so I got a 15A and a double 10A all in there now working well.

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## wozzzzza

yesterday I thought stuff it, been on my mind for a week now, I have only 1 chance, so I did it, epoxy to the floor. went to dulux, told them my story, they told me how to prep it and gave me this Product Detail went home, gave the floor a light/medium scuff with a diamond cup grinder I have to roughen it up a bit, the floor came up nice, gave it a good pressure wash and hosing off before lunch, set my fan on it all day and night and all morning today and this afternoon I started painting it.got first coat on today thinned down a bit with 400ml of thinners to 4L epoxy. just enough to cover the floor.tomorrow I will put the second coat on that will go further as concrete wont suck any more up and unthinned and that will do her.
here are some before and afters. then hopefully by the end of this week I will have the door back to put on.

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## wozzzzza

floor is completed, 2nd coat of epoxy on it yesterday, looking good today.
am I glad I did it? yes, so far so good, feels better to walk on, gives me piece of mind it wont soak up oil if I spill it on it and looks a lot better.

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## Bros

What's it like if you throw a bucket of water on the floor and try and walk on it is it very slippery?

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## wozzzzza

I just went and did it, not bad at all, little bit slipperier than wet concrete but still plenty of grip.

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## Bros

> I just went and did it, not bad at all, little bit slipperier than wet concrete but still plenty of grip.

  Some advantage on poor concrete finish.

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## wozzzzza

yes. exactly.

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## wozzzzza

got moving on the door today, got it back from powder coaters the other day, hung the frame, then put liquid nails on it and placed the aluminium sheet on it and riveted it into place and stuck the door lock on and it works great.
I welded 12x12mm solid bar down the edges of the door so it reduces the ability of people to use a jimmy bar or screwdriver to try and open the door up as they can no longer get it down the side of it to lever it.
on the right had side of the door in the second photo there are 2 large bolts sticking out at the top and bottom, they are welded in with some washers for spacing and these bolts close into the door frame so if someone cuts the hinges off they still cant get the door off as the bolts preventing it and the washes preventing it moving towards the frame that side to let go of the lock on the other side if you know what I mean. hopefully these things I have done don't ever get tested though. good in theory.
just have to finish the frame off, stick the noggins back on inside and pain the frame a bit and get some flashing and its done, I can start the network stuff and start filling it up.

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## commodorenut

Reminds me of when I had a solid core door on my old shed that opened outwards.   It was an old fire door with a gal sheet on both faces. 
As the hinges were exposed, I welded the pins top & bottom pin on each hinge to prevent an easy way in. 
After seeing how crooks jimmy'd the front door on a mate's place to get in, and how it splintered, my concerns turned to the strength of the frame.
I got hold of some strips of 1.2mm or so steel angle, and ran that down the length of the frame on each side - cut around the hinges for clearance, and with a good 20 or so screws holding each one in - the idea being someone couldn't easily splinter the timber frame to break out the lock or hinges. 
I was pretty happy with my work until I got some guys around to help me lift an old window-mount A/C up into the frame, to A/C the shed.  One of the older guys saw the work on the door, and showed me how easy it would be to break the weld off the pins with a cold chisel, then pop the door out from the hinge side.
On his advice, I did a similar thing to your bolts.  I collected up a dozen blunt/broken 1/4" drill bits for me.  We cut them down a little using a grinder to about 2" long, and I drilled about 1.5" into the door, and glued them in with epoxy.  I drilled matching holes in the steel-lined jamb, for them to sit into when the door was closed.  
I could have used any sort of steel pins, but the idea with the drill bits was the hardened steel would be much more difficult to grind or cut. 
Nobody ever broke in, nor attempted, so it hasn't had to prove it's worth.

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## wozzzzza

here it is close up, you can see the hinge is a decent stainless steel hinge, cant knock pin out of it easily, the edge of the door is very minimal clearance between the frame so you cant stick a jemmy bar or screwdriver between it, the door frame around the lock height is reinforced with a 50x50x3mm SHS from the door frame to the other part of the shed frame so if something does get there to jemmy it then it wont budge, and the strike area is 6mm thick as ive welded another 3mm piece of steel to it. same deal at the top, door skin overlaps frame with a piece of steel bar welded so jemmy bar cant fit in there, bottom of door is an interference fit pretty much to the step and recessed into it a little bit, there will be no jemmying of this door easily.
still yet to weld the 12x12 bar tot he hinge side of the door frame then measure up the flashing for manufacture.
best of all, no handle on the outside for someone to bash with hammer or use to pull at the door.

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## Uncle Bob

Probably easier for the bad guys to just unscrew some sheets of wall cladding  :Wink:

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## Bros

Wazzzzzza why can I get a bar in there and reach in and open the door. The weak point of tin sheds in the tin.

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## Bros

> Probably easier for the bad guys to just unscrew some sheets of wall cladding

  Beat me to it.

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## wozzzzza

> Probably easier for the bad guys to just unscrew some sheets of wall cladding

  have thought of that as well, that one is coming, apart from shelving being on every wall and cross bracing across every panel making it very hard I will be going around with a bag of rivets and riveting each panel on to stop this as well as liquid nailing the sheets each side of the doors. will be putting more rivets and some security screws on the rear of the shed where someone can sit for a while in noticed undoing screws. overkill I know but that's me.

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## wozzzzza

> Wazzzzzza why can I get a bar in there and reach in and open the door. The weak point of tin sheds in the tin.

  nothing right now, but wait until its finished and you'll see.

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## PlatypusGardens

> The weak point of tin sheds in the tin.

  
Indeed.
you can reinforce and put all the locks in the world on it.
Doesn't change the fact you can pumch a hole in it with a screwdriver and rip the sheets by hand.

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## phild01

I was thinking a can opener!

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## wozzzzza

I knew I should have built a brick shed.

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## Bros

A friend of mine who worked for the council around Brisbane way said they were having trouble with people breaking into tin sheds on parks by going through the sides. They ended up lining the inside of the shed with weld mesh that stopped them.

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## commodorenut

Concrete reo under the inner lining of fibro sheds was common in some of the rougher suburbs where mates lived in the early 90s.  Usually it was stolen from a job site nearby....
Stopped them punching holes & taking stuff - but only protected items too big to fit out the square holes.

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## Uncle Bob

> I knew I should have built a brick shed.

  Don't panic, most of the crooks are too brain dead to think of something so basic.
You must be thinking of keeping some high value stuff in this shed to warrant such security. Maybe upping the insurance cover might be a good idea instead of turning it into a bunker?

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## Whitey66

> I was thinking a can opener!

  Or why not go an even easier way, remove the screws.

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## phild01

> Or why not go an even easier way, remove the screws.

  No good if he welds them on from the inside!

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## Bros

Time for wazzzzza to buy a dog.

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## Optimus

> Time for wazzzzza to buy a dog.

  Isn't this on shared land though?

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## Whitey66

> No good if he welds them on from the inside!

   That would actually make it easier as the screws would just snap off flush with very little force.
Rivets would be better.
I've lined my shed with 19mm structafloor sheets that are screwed on. Good luck to anyone getting through that without making a noise.

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## phild01

> That would actually make it easier as the screws would just snap off flush with very little force.
> Rivets would be better.
> I've lined my shed with 19mm structafloor sheets that are screwed on. Good luck to anyone getting through that without making a noise.

  No, I mean a weld dag on the end of the screw so it just spins.  Or use long screws and bend them at right angles :Smilie:

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## Bros

With the screws it is easy just bend the end of the screw over

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## Mundz

I'd move if i needed that much security in a shed.  :Redface: )

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