# Forum Home Renovation Home Theatres  Carpeting a riser

## Sterob

My chairs have not arrived yet, but I am thinking on how to go about fixing carpet to the riser, once I have it fabricated.
Does anyone have any tips and/or first hand experience with doing this? It is not something that I want to stuff up....lol I guess it would be expensive to get a carpet layer to do this for me although I have not gotten any quotes.....
I've googled it, but have not seen any clear cut info on the subject; only vague directions.
Was thinking of using contact cement to secure the carpet to the riser, but I am nervous about trying to cover such a large item, by myself. Finishing the edges and corners so they are neat also loom as a possible problem.
The rise will possibly have a step on it and some sort of lighting for the step, so I have to allow for those as well.
I have a pneumatic staple gun, so I can swing that into service, if needed.
Steve

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## goldie1

Contact adhesive would be your best bet. When you say the riser is that the vertical bit only or does it go up and over the 
floor area where the chairs are? Allso does it have wrap around corners? With light fittings you cut out the hole in the timber 
then fit the carpet then the fittings go over the carpet as most have some sort of a flange to cover the exposed edge 
Use a paint roller for the larger areas and a brush for the fiddly bits  
Just saw your other thread. Looks interesting not difficult to do I used to do this kind of work in real theatres in a past life. 
Wrap round corners are a bit fiddly but the rest is pretty straight forward

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## Sterob

> Contact adhesive would be your best bet. When you say the riser is that the vertical bit only or does it go up and over the 
> floor area where the chairs are? Allso does it have wrap around corners? With light fittings you cut out the hole in the timber 
> then fit the carpet then the fittings go over the carpet as most have some sort of a flange to cover the exposed edge 
> Use a paint roller for the larger areas and a brush for the fiddly bits  
> Just saw your other thread. Looks interesting not difficult to do I used to do this kind of work in real theatres in a past life. 
> Wrap round corners are a bit fiddly but the rest is pretty straight forward

  Hi Goldie1,
I want to cover the top and the sides. I guess the joins will be in the corners, but I am not sure how to go about it. If there is a better option, I'm all ears...lol I don't want daggy bits of carpet visible, as you can imagine....
I think I have the lighting situation sorted; I've seen some step lights on Ebay that will do the trick. 
Steve

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## goldie1

> Hi Goldie1,
> I want to cover the top and the sides. I guess the joins will be in the corners, but I am not sure how to go about it. If there is a better option, I'm all ears...lol I don't want daggy bits of carpet visible, as you can imagine....
> I think I have the lighting situation sorted; I've seen some step lights on Ebay that will do the trick.
> Steve

  Steve the wrap round corners are done with a diagonal join from the top of the corner for about 50mm then the join turns 
and runs vertical to the floor. How good they look depends on the quality of the carpet. A good thick cut pile is almost 
invisable and if glued properly is ok. A thin loop pile is more visable and tends to fray over time. Another way of doing 
them is to fit exposed timber corner blocks the same thickness as the carpet which then butts up to the timber eliminating 
the carpet join. Just as an afterthought if using loop pile carpet never drill through it. The pile is a continues thread and will wrap 
around the drill pulling a large piece out of it.

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## Sterob

> Steve the wrap round corners are done with a diagonal join from the top of the corner for about 50mm then the join turns 
> and runs vertical to the floor. How good they look depends on the quality of the carpet. A good thick cut pile is almost 
> invisable and if glued properly is ok. A thin loop pile is more visable and tends to fray over time. Another way of doing 
> them is to fit exposed timber corner blocks the same thickness as the carpet which then butts up to the timber eliminating 
> the carpet join. Just as an afterthought if using loop pile carpet never drill through it. The pile is a continues thread and will wrap 
> around the drill pulling a large piece out of it.

  Thanks Goldie1, So you mean the carpet is cut like this:  
Would you cut and glue the right vertical side first, and then trim the left vertical side to fit flush before gluing down?

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## goldie1

> Thanks Goldie1, So you mean the carpet is cut like this:  
> Would you cut and glue the right vertical side first, and then trim the left vertical side to fit flush before gluing down?

  Thats how the join is. You stick the top first so nothing can move then cut the join ( both sides) with out glue so you can 
dry fit it to make sure its right then glue both sides . Fit the edges together working from the top corner. Its important to  
get contact on the carpet backing edges at the join so it doesn't fray. Paint it on from the back so you only get it on the  
backing edge and not on the pile. Put the join on the side that is least visable.  
Contact adhesive it is instant grab so you have to get it right first time. Lay out the piece of carpet cut about 30mm to big 
all round. While standing on the carpet fold it back half way from the back wall. If it is a large piece you need an assistant. 
Glue the back and floor and allow to dry. Again stand on the carpet so it can't move holding the carpet vertical and walking 
towards the back wall pushing the carpet into the glue with your feet so you dont trap any looseness in the carpet. Rub a 
hammer along the wall so the carpet forms a right angle then trim the excess. Repeat the other half glueing only to the edge  
not the vertical. Then cut the join and do the two faces. Put a new blade in your stanly to cut the join. If doing a small piece 
like a step eliminate the fold back part. Do the steps in seperate pieces.

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## goldie1

Oh don't forget safety. Contact adhesive fumes are highly volitile. Good ventilation and no smoking etc 
I knew a couple of blokes who blew the front windows out of a bank using contact adhesive in winter with all the doors 
and windows closed and the fumes ignited from the pilot light on a gas heater.

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## Sterob

Thanks Goldie1, That all seems pretty straight forward. When I get the rise built, I can start to plan this.

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## Sterob

The chairs arrive tomorrow! woo hoo!!! I can start to work out how high and wide I want the riser now. 
One question I have is, I assume I have to thin the contact cement so I can use a spray gun to apply it.(that's how all the Pros on telly do it...lol) Use paint thinners? What sort of consistency?
Do I need to practice before try to apply glue to the carpet or can I just fudge through it and adjust the spray as I go?
Steve

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## goldie1

Spraying contact adhesive indoors is a good way to get high on the fumes and get spray drift all over your walls and ceiling. 
By the time you mask every thing and clean your spray machine afterwards you can do it with a cheap 250mm paint roller 
just as quick with a brush on the fiddly bits. 
Back in the old days we used to use sprayable contact and airless spray machines for *large* areas but it is extreamly 
dangerous and as far as I know it is now banned on building sites. No need to practise with the glue just get a coat 
on both surfaces, let it dry and put them together.

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## Sterob

> Spraying contact adhesive indoors is a good way to get high on the fumes and get spray drift all over your walls and ceiling. 
> By the time you mask every thing and clean your spray machine afterwards you can do it with a cheap 250mm paint roller 
> just as quick with a brush on the fiddly bits. 
> Back in the old days we used to use sprayable contact and airless spray machines for *large* areas but it is extreamly 
> dangerous and as far as I know it is now banned on building sites. No need to practise with the glue just get a coat 
> on both surfaces, let it dry and put them together.

  
Ok, Thanks again Goldie1. I won't bother with trying to spay it on.

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## goldie1

> Ok, Thanks again Goldie1. I won't bother with trying to spay it on.

  good call   :Smilie:

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