# Forum Home Renovation Pergolas, Gazebos, Strombellas & Rotundas  Deck Ceiling Advice

## atomicbomb

Hi All, 
We have a deck that we are hoping to install a ceiling into, and are looking for advice.
Apologies in advance if I use the wrong terminology, I'm still tring to pickup all the right terms for everything. 
Deck is split level, with an open beam roof. Rafters are at 900mm spacings.          
Top Level  6m x 4.6mRafters: 230mm x 45mm2.6m at highest point, 2.4 at lowest (by the stairs to the lower level)  
Bottom Level  4.6m x 4.6mRafters: 190mm x 45mmOver 3m high at lowest point  
Our plans for the ceiling are:  Electrical, with downlights (9 each, top and bottom, looking at the DETA Grid Connect RGB downlights at the moment)Earthwool insulation between the raftersPVC Panels for the ceiling (Quickboard, or similar) 
I haven't seen much mention of PVC panelled ceilings on this forum. Not sure if it's frowned upon or what, but it's what we are currently looking at.
Mostly because we want to DIY install ourselves, and plasterboard/blueboard/similar is just too big and heavy for us to solo.  
Quickboard comes in 4.8m lengths, so this would work going across the deck (4.6m) with no butt joins.
The installation guide is saying max span is 600mm (to our 900mm) https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9...a2b3d8062b.pdf  
From everything I've been researching, I need to install some extra battons to get the max 600mm spacing? 
Questions:  What options make the most sense?To ensure that I can still run the pvc planks along the 4.6m side of the deck, I'll need to run a second row, ending up with a grid?What do I need to use to cover the extra gap along the sides?Is there anything you'd recommend against with what i've described above?Or anything I've missed that I should consider? 
Thanks  :Biggrin:

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## YoungBolt

Firstly - Why are you wanting to install a ceiling under the roof of the deck? 
Unless you're closing in the sides and making it an indoor/outdoor room, what benefits are you hoping to gain by sealing up the roof cavity?  
Also, blueboard would be the best material to use in an outside environment. It's not that hard to lift up if you have a few ladders/tressles and a handful of mates. Otherwise you can always rent a panel lifter off fb marketplace or even buy a cheapie off ebay. I wouldn't put off using blueboard just because it's a little heavy, it's one of the best rated material for outside use.

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## Moondog55

#1/To stop radiated heat coming down from that steel sheet roof
#2 For the look of a finished ceiling
@atomicbomb; if you are going to do this do it properly and insulate it to help keep cool; I like Foilboard for this.

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## YoungBolt

What difference would reducing the heat transfer from the roof when you have open sides?  
Also there's an argument to be made that heat rises and could get trapped under there.Unless there's some form of enclosure, I can't see how putting any ceiling sheets up will do anything. Basically a screen door on a submarine.  
For the look, yeah, can understand. With some lights and a fan it'd look pretty schmiko. 
Install furing channels spaced appropriately, install blueboard, tape and mud joints, add some lights and it'll look nice. Lots of work though....

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## Marc

YB, have you ever been under a steel roof in summer without ceiling? It's an oven, regardless of open sides. Insulation and ceiling is _mandatory_ if you want to enjoy the deck in summer. 
I can think of two outdoor settings in my area that have steel roof over veranda at 3m high _​and waterfront_ mind you,  and in summer no one wants to sit at a table under that roof, it is unbearable. 
I ripped asbestos off a high ceiling veranda, and the time it was naked steel roof, before relining, the difference was obvious.   
The last one I built , I fitted insulation batts between the rafters and then wet area gyprock. But that is not a DIY ceiling. Quickboard should be easier to do it yourself, although whatever you do up there, will require two or more people and some form of scaffolding, props and a good neck massage at the end of the day.  :Smilie:  
And don't forget to fit sarking against the steel roof before any insulation and ceiling goes up. 
Before you decide DIY, get a few quotes from plasterers.  
Looking at your roof, i would consider fitting sarking insulation and ceiling between the rafters, letting part of the rafter showing. A bit more work but a nicer result.

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## atomicbomb

Youngbolt 
* we can't install downlights unless there is something to install them in/on (aka a ceiling)
* prevent radiant heat through the tin roof, no it won't stop heat from the sides, but it will help.
* and as Moondog55 mentioned, we want the look of a nice ceiling on our nice new deck. 
Moondog55
* re Foilboard, thanks that looks interesting, i'll definitely research it. 
Marc
* sarking - i've only just heard about this. this prevents condensation buildup on the inside of the ceiling cavity?  
Installing the ceiling between the rafters is an interesting idea. not sure the wife will go for it, we both like the idea of a nice flat, clean looking roof. 
I'm still stumped around what will need to go round the outside edges if we need to install extra battons below the rafters to support whatever we put up.
I'm assuming some sort of flashing? but no idea what to look for. 
Thanks for the comments

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## METRIX

> Youngbolt 
> * we can't install downlights unless there is something to install them in/on (aka a ceiling)
> * prevent radiant heat through the tin roof, no it won't stop heat from the sides, but it will help.
> * and as Moondog55 mentioned, we want the look of a nice ceiling on our nice new deck. 
> Moondog55
> * re Foilboard, thanks that looks interesting, i'll definitely research it. 
> Marc
> * sarking - i've only just heard about this. this prevents condensation buildup on the inside of the ceiling cavity?  
> Installing the ceiling between the rafters is an interesting idea. not sure the wife will go for it, we both like the idea of a nice flat, clean looking roof. 
> ...

  Normally there would be a timber cover board that goes onto the perimeter of the frame before the roof flashings are fixed.
Yours has not had this done, so you have two choices, find a thinner material that will slip under the flashings and extend past the level of the battens or replace the flashings with new ones that will need to be refixed over the new coverings. 
Depending on where they screwed the flashings down, you might be able to simply move the flashing over to accommodate the new material you put on the side and re screw the flashing down by shifting them over 10 or 20mm.  
I would loosen the sides of the flashing and see how much play you have to get something under there without warping the flashing once refixed.
You should have enough room to slip hardiplanks in there, these are on;y 7.5mm thick and either 230 or 300mm deep, come in set lengths of 4200. 
These are the easiest option as they are an outdoor product, they are dead straight and easy to fix with gal clouts, and easy to paint, the 300mm version should overhang enough to allow for battens and ceiling. 
Definitely put some insulation of some sorts under there to minimise the radiating heat from the colorbond. 
You could either use the lining stuff you were looking at, or an option might be to get 2400 x 1200 9mm Marine ply and put it up with an black shadow line in between the sheets (is quite easy to do with a few tools and two of you) 
Installing ceiling between the rafters is a pain to do, and relies on the rafters being installed very accurately if it's to look decent, go for the flat look if you can  https://www.jameshardie.com.au/produ...k-weatherboard 
I definitely agree to cover up the colorbond, an un-insulated colorbond roof is unbearable to sit under in the summer, plus insulating / covering it up will make the roof quieter underneath when raining, and give a cleaner look.
It doesn't matter you don't have any sides, 95% of outdoor entertaining areas don;t have sides, this is why they are outdoor entertaining areas, otherwise it would be an indoor entertaining area  :Smilie:

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## Moondog55

*Re sarking*
I'm reasonably sure that when you use Foilboard in an appropriate manner you don't need any extra sarking, but you do need an air-gap on both sides for the RFL to work. looking at the pix of the roof you could [ most probably] just fasten the Foilboard to the existing roofing battens using the 20mm Foilboard sheets and then run battens at 600mm spacing under the rafters and whatever sheeting you want for cosmetic purposes

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## Bart1080

Run your battens across the rafters - 70 x 35 or 90 x 35...what ever takes your fancyFill in the ends between the battens (outside edges) with  70 x 35run the wire for your lightsThrown in some insulation batts - 2.5's will be enough to stop the radiant heat or foil board as others have suggested.  I think for sarking to work effectively, the roof needs to be pulled and layed underneath on top of the roof battens.fit your ceiling lining of choice - Cement sheeting/villa board, plastic, ply.  If using cement sheeting, use 900mm wide sheets as they are easier to put up.  either predrill your lighting holes or as you put them up or after (make sure your know exactly whereFit quad around edges butting the internal beamsputty around/along quad for a seamless fitpaint with a flat finish....not gloss or saturn as it will show imperfectionsFit outside "L" shaped flashing and your good to go

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