# Forum Home Renovation Waterproofing  Extent of waterproofing in shower

## atregent

Hi All 
I am almost at the stage of waterproofing my bathroom and was wondering what the general consensus is regarding the extent of waterproofing in a shower. 
According to AS3470, all I need to do is the floor and corner joins (I've used Villaboard on the walls, so meet the water resistant requirements). 
My personal preference would be to apply waterproofing on the entire wall, up to the shower head height. 
Are there issues with doing that, or is it just a waste of product, or perhaps other issues? I'm using Durabit EF, if that makes a difference.

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## GeoffW1

Hi, 
If on the ground floor I'd do, in the shower recess, the angles, floor (even if under a tray) and walls up to shower rose height. If on the first floor, I'd add the angles and entire floor outside the shower as well. 
I'd be paying extra special attention to the penetration formed by the drain. 
Cheers

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## Oldsaltoz

Ground floor.
Internal corners to 2 metres. Wall to floor inside shower with bond breakers, sheet joints even if plastered must be waterproofed with a membrane. The whole room should have the wall to floor joint sealed to at least 70 mm above the tile finish. You will also need a water stop in the doorway/s. 
You should also have a puddle flange in the waste outlet.
All fixing nail heads to be coated with a sealant and tap penetrations sealed before tiling. 
The is no need to top coat Villaboard. However, it's a good idea to coat plasterboard as small pin holes are easy to miss. 
Upper floor, shower MUST have a puddle flange and the full floor and wall to floor joints sealed. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## atregent

Thanks guys. 
Probably left out a few key details about the build too. It's a ground floor, walk in shower (2 walls + single glass panel), linear drain grate, yellow tongue subfloor with cement sheet tile underlay. 
I figured following the AS guidelines would be sufficient, but after seeing the mess that I pulled down, I'm just a little paranoid about it, for the sake of an extra 4m² of waterproofing. Granted it was tiles attached with what looked like dabs of liquid nails, on cement sheet attached to masonite with small nails.

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## wspivak

> Thanks guys. 
> Probably left out a few key details about the build too. It's a ground floor, walk in shower (2 walls + single glass panel), linear drain grate, yellow tongue subfloor with cement sheet tile underlay. 
> I figured following the AS guidelines would be sufficient, but after seeing the mess that I pulled down, I'm just a little paranoid about it, for the sake of an extra 4m² of waterproofing. Granted it was tiles attached with what looked like dabs of liquid nails, on cement sheet attached to masonite with small nails.

  There's no harm in waterproofing the entirety of the shower walls and floors, just make sure you follow all of the procedures as listed in the manufacturers instructions, use a good quality caulking product (I recommend MS Polymer based products such as the Soudal T-Rex), and make sure to prime everything!  Waterproofing Products, Waterproofing Supplies. The Waterstop Shop

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## atregent

I have a 4l tin of the Duram primer, so that's taken care of 
Does Sikaflex FC fall into the MS Polymer category? Because I already have a couple of tubes of that.

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## Oldsaltoz

> I have a 4l tin of the Duram primer, so that's taken care of 
> Does Sikaflex FC fall into the MS Polymer category? Because I already have a couple of tubes of that.

  Sikaflex 11FC is a Polyurethane.  https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9...5395236d5cf8.s.. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## wspivak

> I have a 4l tin of the Duram primer, so that's taken care of 
> Does Sikaflex FC fall into the MS Polymer category? Because I already have a couple of tubes of that.

  As Saltoz said, Sikaflex FC is a solvent based polyurethane.  It will be fine to use as long as you give it sufficient time to fully cure - read the packaging or a data sheet on the product from the Sika website. 
The reason I recommend MS Polymers, is because they do not use solvent (or isocyanates - which are harmful to breathe in) and are excellent for use under water-based membranes which can often be adversely affected if used on top of uncured solvent based polyurethanes. 
Hope that explains things better.  Waterproofing Products, Waterproofing Supplies. The Waterstop Shop

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## Oldsaltoz

As with most things these days, always avoid any dust, use PPE as and when needed, always ensure you have good ventilation and light. 
I have been working for the last 50 years in area such as Coal, iron Ore, boat building, waterproofing and the building industry in general. I am still working every day and some weekends. 
Now in my 70th year I am considering retirement, again.  So I can fully remodel and renovate the family home. An estimated 5 year project, with a few interruptions to continue my life long love of sailing. 
Anything and everything out there can and will harm you, but only if ignore the warnings. 
So just a moment to think about what you (and others) might be exposed to and take the right steps to avoid the hazards. 
You never know, the life you save might be your own. 
Good luck and fair winds.   :Smilie:

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## atregent

Thanks for that, I _was_ going to ask what the difference was, but never quite got there. 
It looks like I won't be ready to do the waterproofing this weekend, so even with the Sika FC, it will be well and truly cured by the following weekend. 
Good luck with the retirement OldSalt!

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