# Forum Home Renovation Sub Flooring  installing floor joists with hangers into brick

## zx9

Hi, 
I am currently in the process of having the front 2 rooms of my house restumped and a new subfloor built. I had the builder do the stumps & bearers and I had planned to do the joists & yellow tongue as I had been told it was just a matter of fixing the joists to the bearers & screwing down the YT. But after asking why there was no bearer along the walls the builder told me that the joists are fixed to the walls with a wall plate (joist hanger?) and since researching a little I can see it's a little more complicated that I first thought. The builder offer to do it but at $12 per meter for install and thats after I've already spent $6 per meter for the F17 lengths ($18 total) it seemed a little pricey?  
I have 25 lengths of F17KDHW 90x45 each 4.6m with approx 1.1m span between bearers/walls (ie. 2 stumps in the middle) but I dont know what joist hangers to use or how to install them into double brick. (size & type of bolts?) and what to fix the joists to the bearers with. Nailed or strapped or both? 
Thanks in advance

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## zx9

researching a little further on the web i find suggestions of fixing a joist along the wall instead of using hangers? how would this be done. is this an acceptable method?

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## dazzler

Dynabolts? 
I like the screw in ones.  I would do it similar to how you would a wall bearer when building a deck.

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## Bloss

> researching a little further on the web i find suggestions of fixing a joist along the wall instead of using hangers? how would this be done. is this an acceptable method?

  It is then called a ledger and yes use 'ankascrews' from Ramset (or equivalent).

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## zx9

Can i use a joist along the walls or will it need to be a bearer? how would i fix the joists to this ledge. 
Can someone tell me a few instructions, what size dyna bolts to attached the joist ledge, do i need to strap & nail down the joists. is the whole process relatively straight forward. 
thanks again

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## Gaza

no offence but why did the builder only do half the subfloor construction. 
there is no way if i was the builder let a home owner do half the job and then only provided half the warranty.

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## zx9

> no offence but why did the builder only do half the subfloor construction. 
> there is no way if i was the builder let a home owner do half the job and then only provided half the warranty.

  the builder is running waaaay behind schedule and I am wellll over budget so I told him that anything I can do ... ie. Labour, digging holes, etc.. to reduce costs and speed up the project would be great. Originally the work was to only include restumping but after finding the subfloor in bad condition after pulling up the floorboards we found we had to replace it. which is why he told me that since the joists/yellow tongue is something I could probably do myself. and i think i can if i can get some instructions/advice from this forum on how to. it's only 2 rooms each approx 4x4.5. The rest of the house the builder is replacing with a 2 story extension on a slab. we had to keep the front 2 rooms for council permit reasons. (heritage overlay - they are part of the original house over 100 years old - which explains why the subfloor is bad)   so back to the problem at hand .... can someone point me in the direction of what bolts to use, how far apart, any tips or tricks, or let me know if they think this is actually a lot hard than it sounds and that I should get the builder to do it.

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## zx9

i might ending up answering my own question ... but at least this maybe helpful to others. 
after more research best way i have determind is dyna bolting (ramset) 10mm by 100mm bolts every 500mm along the length of the wall with a joist to create a ledge.  
now my all i need to know is what the best way to fix the joists to the bearers & ledge. straps, nails, or both???

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## dazzler

And heres a tip.  Use the screw in ones on each end to locate it and then part drill all your holes.  Remove the bearer and finish drilling them all the way in, refit and then use the expandable type to secure it.

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## Gaza

use 4x2 hardwood same as joists fixed with dyna bolts or screw bolts,

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## Bloss

As I said on the earlier post ankascrews are the go - a ledger can be 70x45 or 90x45. Have to say I reckon OP should stick to more labouring tasks and let the builder do the structural work.  :2thumbsup:

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## zx9

well armed with my new knowledge and a heap of materials i pickup at bunnings i started to mark the ledger position however after checking a couple of the bearers the builder put in they were off by 5-8mm and once was loose. i could rotate it slightly with my hands. i figure this is completely unacceptable and i am going to have the builder fix this. I think perhaps the reason for the movement is that the builder orginally stuffed up the levels of the stubs and had to add 10mm packing under the bearers so that the floor level would match the slab. is this allowed? what differences between bearer hights are acceptable, +-2mm? i dont want my floorboards to squeak.

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## zx9

took my issues up with the builder who reckons he hadnt seen the work his guys had done then told me they hadnt finished so all the issues will be fixed asap.  
so i think now i'm pretty set in what i have to do. thanks all.

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