# Forum Home Renovation Television, Computers & Phones  Build a TV niche

## barney118

Has someone out there built a recessed niche for a tv mounted on the wall? I am looking at building one into a wall but not exactly sure on how to go about it including hiding cables. The bottom section under the TV would house the equipment again all cables hidden.  
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## OBBob

How deep are you looking at? Is the idea to recess into an existing wall or build a false wall out around the TV?

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## joynz

If you have the room, it can look really great to put a wall of shallow  shelving and cabinetry, with the tv in the middle, on the wall with a decent amount of space around it.   
Run all the wires and cables in the wall.

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## Uncle Bob

> Run all the wires and cables in the wall.

  +1. I'd use a conduit also to make drawing wire through easier..

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## barney118

> How deep are you looking at? Is the idea to recess into an existing wall or build a false wall out around the TV?

  OBBob build a false wall around it. If I am looking at the false wall say 90mm stud work to me seems not deep enough for a recess as the ( my current TV sticks out 200mm.) I am also considering having a projector screen built in front. The other thing is if I have a cabinet under for the equipment this is going to stick out further do i cover this with gyprock. 
cheers Barney

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## barney118

> If you have the room, it can look really great to put a wall of shallow  shelving and cabinetry, with the tv in the middle, on the wall with a decent amount of space around it.   
> Run all the wires and cables in the wall.

  Do you have a picture to describe the shadow shelving? 
cheers Barney

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## phild01

Do keep enough space for ventilation. 
What will you do when TV's become nothing but a film on the wall!

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## METRIX

> Do keep enough space for ventilation. 
> What will you do when TV's become nothing but a film on the wall!

  Is 1mm to thick ?  LG's 'wallpaper TV' can hang in on the wall using MAGNETS | Daily Mail Online

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## Armers

The ones i've seen built were done during building phase, they were specifically built for tvs the clients had at the time. They were just double thickness walls 180mm with where the tv was / is only single thickness, all cabling plumed through pre drilled holes at install, with either draw strings or careful marking of where noggins are drilled. The only downside is what happens when and if your tv dies and the new bigger and better one you get doesn't fit the niche. 
If you decide to plum down walls, try and get your cables in the wall below the noggin otherwise you'll be up for drilling at least a 40mm hole in the nog (to get IEC power plug through) without damaging plasterboard. 
You looked at getting a slimline tv mount, that can save a few mm here and there? Are you looking at hiding the projector screen in a bulkhead? 
Cheers 
Cheers

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## FrodoOne

> Has someone out there built a recessed niche for a tv mounted on the wall? I am looking at building one into a wall but not exactly sure on how to go about it including hiding cables. The bottom section under the TV would house the equipment again all cables hidden.

  I can't make any suggestions concerning a recessed TV Niche but I can make some suggestions concerning the "ducting" of the cables when wall-mounting a TV. 
This suggestion is to install a suitable length of rectangular cross-section plastic down-pipe (100 mm X 50 mm) in the wall behind the plaster board.
Access to this duct behind the TV and at the bottom could be via  a "Bull Nose Wall Plate" ( Clipsal - 3105BNW - Wall Plate, Bull Nose, Flush Mounting, White Electric) but I have used a "blank" wall plate with a computer desk Cord Duct Cover fitted into it.  (This IS more work to fit but, if it is seen at the bottom, I think that it looks better. It also allows a standard 3 pin plug to pass through) 
The down-pipe should be long enough to rest on the wall plate and have rectangular wooden plugs (MDF or Ply) inserted and fixed top and bottom, with the one at the bottom just below the lower point of access.  (With a base like this in place you can retrieve anything which gets dropped!)
The (non threaded) outside holes in the Plaster Clip brackets used to mount the wall plates can be drilled out and fitted with short self tapping screws into the down-pipe to hold it in place against the plaster board. Of course, rectangular holes are cut out of the down-pipe to allow the cables to pass through. 
All this means cutting a "slot" in the plaster board which needs to be repaired and repainted. (In two cases for me, it also meant cutting a section out of the intervening noggin.) 
(While it should not need saying, the cables need to come out behind the TV near where they need to be connected and this is NOT in the middle.  If, because of the furniture below, they DO need to come up away from where they need to be connected, it would best if they emerged above the mounting bracket. From here they can be draped over the mountings and not be visible from the front.  If they were to emerge below the mounting bracket, it may be necessary to find a way of supporting then so that they do not sag into view.)  
I have mounted three TVs  (in different houses) in this manner, in two cases the rooms were undergoing renovation and this made just one additional patch up job necessary before painting.
In the other case, matching paint was available so re-finishing the repaired surface was no problem.  
You could also consider having a socket outlet mounted behind the TV so that it is not necessary to run the power lead down the duct. I suggest that you make it a double, in case you also (or later) wish to mount a "Sound Bar" under the TV.
Two weeks ago I was required to mount a Sound-Bar under my Daughter's wall mounted TV, which is one that I "ducted" last year.  The socket outlet which had been installed behind this TV was only a single so a flat Double Adapter was required. However, with the standard plugs fitted to both power leads in the Double Adapter, the TV could not sit back enough to be "flat" on the wall. Because of this, it was necessary to cut off both of these plugs and fit side-entry plugs on both leads.

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## barney118

Im still no closer to understanding the stud work required for a niche. I was going to have HDMI, optical, cat5e, co-axial behind the niche these will just run down the wall to the bottom so I can connect my receiver etc. power in a slot as mentioned. Do I have 2 x 90x45 false walls to create the niche. Any pictures/photos of what it looks like prior to plaster will help.

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## Armers

I know this is American, but its one the first i can find  :Biggrin:  I am trying to find some prewire photos at frame for some of my work but its not looking good so far.  https://youtu.be/oVyaOapGDLc  
We got any photos of where you want to put this tv yet? 
Cheers

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## Armers

Install photos, rack photos, screen photos... no tv in niche photos. Sorry mate.  
Cheers

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## r3nov8or

> .... The only downside is what happens when and if your tv dies and the new bigger and better one you get doesn't fit the niche. 
> ....

  +1
Honestly, when the TV fits they look great. When it doesn't, they can be hard to hide

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## FrodoOne

> Im still no closer to understanding the stud work required for a niche. I was going to have HDMI, optical, cat5e, co-axial behind the niche these will just run down the wall to the bottom so I can connect my receiver etc. power in a slot as mentioned. Do I have 2 x 90x45 false walls to create the niche. Any pictures/photos of what it looks like prior to plaster will help.

  I have only been able to locate the following showing niche construction - in metal in each case: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxxrM4TL7_g Drywall TV Niche 
However, I find amazing the number of quite ugly examples of this genre, as exemplified in the following: -  Ugly House Photos Â» Entertainment/Media Niche 
Also, it is amazing the number of examples of TV niches in the worst place for a TV - above a fireplace ! 
But then, there is nothing new in this, as can be seen at Victorian cartoons from Punch | PUNCH Magazine Cartoon Archive

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## barney118

Sounds like I'm better off spending time in hiding cables than building a niche. Is there any off the shelf products that hide cables and fit with gyprock?  
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## METRIX

> Im still no closer to understanding the stud work required for a niche. I was going to have HDMI, optical, cat5e, co-axial behind the niche these will just run down the wall to the bottom so I can connect my receiver etc. power in a slot as mentioned. Do I have 2 x 90x45 false walls to create the niche. Any pictures/photos of what it looks like prior to plaster will help.

  It's up to you, how deep do you want this niche to be ? 
Running the cables is nothing, when you build the wall, don't put any noggins directly under where the wires will be running, this allows you to drop cables from the connection point to behind the entertainment unit, the TV mount attaches to the studs so not having any noggin under the TV is no problem 
You can get recessed power points on ebay or Jaycar etc which sit inside the wall and have a plate which protrudes only a few mm, some of these also have concealed cable entry points, this allows you to use slim TV mounts. ie: 5mm deep (these are not suitable for all TV'S as the dodgy TV'S can overheat.. 
Not sure why your current TV sit's out 200mm, what type of TV is it, if you cant find a combination point, you can additionally use a concealed cable plate at top and bottom, simply drop the cable in the top hole, drag it out at the bottom one - easy, no need for complicated channels or conduit etc in the wall, just don't put the noggin in between that stud, bear in mind the recessed power points are designed to sit IN a stud wall, so if you want to use one of these and a niche you may need an additional depth behind the niche.  
To build the niche build two stud walls, the back one can be 70mm it's not doing anything except holding the TV, the front wall can be whatever depth you want the niche to be, this would be for a simple recessed TV, but if you want additional equipment the design needs to be different. 
Do a search for TV niche, post some pics of what you want and advice can be given, there is a thousand different ways to build these, ie for the TV only, or to house other equipment either on display or hidden underneath etc etc the possibilities are endless. 
I am not a big fan of these, because you limit yourself to that one TV size, as we all know TV's are getting bigger, if you recess a TV it looks better if the recess is not much bigger then the TV, if you have a 55" today, will you still have a 55" in 5 years, I can say NO.
Then you will need to redo the wall to accommodate a bigger TV, not a clean option IMO, if you make the recess bigger to accomodate a bigger TV in the future, it looks silly I prefer to simply hang the TV on the wall, our current Samsung is 30mm deep, with the slim bracket the entire TV sits about 40mm of the wall, IMO no need to recess as it's unobtrusive as it is. 
This is why I don't like those curved TV'S they stick out too far on the sides, and look silly mounted on a flat wall, just like 3D technology is now dead, curved will follow suit if predictions are right, it was a fad to sell more TV'S but hasn't taken off. 3D TVs Are Dead at CES 2015, Now the Fight's Moved to 4K

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## barney118

I just saw this https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PE19fXC56Uo where can you buy some in Aus?  
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## barney118

> It's up to you, how deep do you want this niche to be ? 
> Running the cables is nothing, when you build the wall, don't put any noggins directly under where the wires will be running, this allows you to drop cables from the connection point to behind the entertainment unit, the TV mount attaches to the studs so not having any noggin under the TV is no problem 
> You can get recessed power points on ebay or Jaycar etc which sit inside the wall and have a plate which protrudes only a few mm, some of these also have concealed cable entry points, this allows you to use slim TV mounts. ie: 5mm deep (these are not suitable for all TV'S as the dodgy TV'S can overheat.. 
> Not sure why your current TV sit's out 200mm, what type of TV is it, if you cant find a combination point, you can additionally use a concealed cable plate at top and bottom, simply drop the cable in the top hole, drag it out at the bottom one - easy, no need for complicated channels or conduit etc in the wall, just don't put the noggin in between that stud, bear in mind the recessed power points are designed to sit IN a stud wall, so if you want to use one of these and a niche you may need an additional depth behind the niche.  
> To build the niche build two stud walls, the back one can be 70mm it's not doing anything except holding the TV, the front wall can be whatever depth you want the niche to be, this would be for a simple recessed TV, but if you want additional equipment the design needs to be different. 
> Do a search for TV niche, post some pics of what you want and advice can be given, there is a thousand different ways to build these, ie for the TV only, or to house other equipment either on display or hidden underneath etc etc the possibilities are endless. 
> I am not a big fan of these, because you limit yourself to that one TV size, as we all know TV's are getting bigger, if you recess a TV it looks better if the recess is not much bigger then the TV, if you have a 55" today, will you still have a 55" in 5 years, I can say NO.
> Then you will need to redo the wall to accommodate a bigger TV, not a clean option IMO, if you make the recess bigger to accomodate a bigger TV in the future, it looks silly I prefer to simply hang the TV on the wall, our current Samsung is 30mm deep, with the slim bracket the entire TV sits about 40mm of the wall, IMO no need to recess as it's unobtrusive as it is. 
> This is why I don't like those curved TV'S they stick out too far on the sides, and look silly mounted on a flat wall, just like 3D technology is now dead, curved will follow suit if predictions are right, it was a fad to sell more TV'S but hasn't taken off. 3D TVs Are Dead at CES 2015, Now the Fight's Moved to 4K

  
My current TV is plasma I suppose the new one will be 65" and sit closer to the wall. I don't like curved either or 3 d. The niche would have a border to allow bigger tv in future. I need to go to jay at to get some covers to go into the plaster to make the neat.  
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## droog

> where can you buy some in Aus?

  Plenty of these type of plates available in Australia:  AV Wall Plates Brush Cable Entry Wall Plate | Other Home Theatre Hardware | Home Theatre Hardware | Sight & Sound - Home | PRODUCTS | PS0291 | Jaycar Electronics Buy Bull Nose Cable Wall Plate | Read Reviews | Dick Smith Online Shopping

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## FrodoOne

> Plenty of these type of plates available in Australia:  AV Wall Plates Brush Cable Entry Wall Plate | Other Home Theatre Hardware | Home Theatre Hardware | Sight & Sound - Home | PRODUCTS | PS0291 | Jaycar Electronics Buy Bull Nose Cable Wall Plate | Read Reviews | Dick Smith Online Shopping

  And, as I mentioned earlier, Clipsal - 3105BNW - Wall Plate, Bull Nose, Flush Mounting, White Electric
BUT, you may find that none of these will permit a standard Australian 3 pin plug to pass through, which is why I prefer to use 'a "blank" wall plate with a computer desk Cord Duct Cover fitted into it.'     
(An example of this is shown above - on a wall mounted TV.) 
However, this does not matter if you install a (recessed) socket outlet behind the TV.

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## Moondog55

Every generation of TV monitor is thinner than the last and generation time is becoming shorter so perhaps it really isn't necessary if you did bookcase depth shelves instead

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## METRIX

> And, as I mentioned earlier, Clipsal - 3105BNW - Wall Plate, Bull Nose, Flush Mounting, White Electric
> BUT, you may find that none of these will permit a standard Australian 3 pin plug to pass through, which is why I prefer to use 'a "blank" wall plate with a computer desk Cord Duct Cover fitted into it.'     
> (An example of this is shown above - on a wall mounted TV.) 
> However, this does not matter if you install a (recessed) socket outlet behind the TV.

  Is that your TV Frodo ? sticks out heaps

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## METRIX

> I just saw this https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PE19fXC56Uo where can you buy some in Aus?  
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  Step 1: open ebay
Step 2: type recessed cable socket  :Biggrin: 
Or skip step 1 and 2 and click the link below  recessed wall plate | eBay  Also bear in mind Plasma's give of enormous amounts of heat, if you put  one in a niche, it may overheat as it cannot get rid of the heat  generated quick enough,

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## phild01

> Step 1: open ebay
> Step 2: type recessed cable socket 
> Or skip step 1 and 2 and click the link below  recessed wall plate | eBay

  I put one of these in too.  They should be bigger to accommodate cables as well.  Ended up drilling a hole in the side of the receptacle to bring some cable through.

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## METRIX

Which one ? 
I use two plates, one for the power with recessed point, a separate one for the cables.

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## phild01

This one: White Recessed Point Plate KIT Wall Powerpoint BOX TV Bedside Table | eBay 
I bought 2 of these for two wall positions.  I think I'd rather build a floating shelf system instead for the second TV. My feeling is that wall mounting is a bit boring now, and I'd rather have more flexibility for positioning.  So having a spare could mean doing what you say with the one I have done.

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## Armers

IMHO the blank wall plate with the round dust cover looks like  balls..... buuuut hey that's me. BTW You will find that you can pull Two  pin Fig8 Power cables and / or IEC (kettle plug) plug cables through  bullnosed wall plates, as there is heaps of room. You can also get the  reverse bullnose (internal nose) plates that look a crapload better. 
You  can get those recessed wall plate thingys the the big green shed (i  think they still sell them). Also as phild01 mentioned you can always  punch holes in the side if you need more cables to come through.  
These  days with HT Amps you can get away with power hdmi optical network  antenna all of which will go through an internal bullnose. You'll be  amazed at what you can get through one. 
As for mounting tvs on walls being a bit boring now, yep unless you make it the feature of the wall ie hanging an 80inch slimline with a rose gold border. 
Cheers

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## METRIX

> IMHO the blank wall plate with the round dust cover looks like  balls..... buuuut hey that's me. \

  Agree, IMO very untidy, there are plenty of neat off the shelf solutions for this. 
Below are the bracket I always use, these are only 5mm deep, so you have to come up with a tidy rully recessed solution or the TV simply won't go onto the bracket.
As said earlier these are not suitable for all TV as some require more wall clearance for heat removal, with these ones the TV looks like it simply stuck to the wall. 
If you doubt how strong they are we had one of these holding up a 64" plasma being fed with 3 HDMI, antenna, fiber optic, USB, power and nothing was seen from the sides.
Obviously they make different models to suite different screens / weight's, flat cables are your friend for slim wall mounts.

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## Armers

> .
> Obviously they make different models to suite different screens / weight's, flat cables are your friend for slim wall mounts.

  You also need to make sure it hooks on properly before you take you hands off the TV, suggest you hang it with a friend . lol 
Cheers   
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## r3nov8or

Re cable plates, I just hole-saw a blank plate and job done. 
The hole behind the TV is through the mounting bracket flat plate, so no other plate needed at all.

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## FrodoOne

> Is that your TV Frodo ? sticks out heaps

  It IS a "close-up" photo and the total "Stick-out" is 120 mm, largely because of the adjustable bracket.
Without an adjustable bracket (and/or SOME stick-out) it is difficult to insert/remove plugs etc. without removing the TV from the wall, which is a major job and the extent of this should be remembered when contemplating a TV Niche. 
It is really not noticeable from across the room where it mainly is viewed, which is the Family Room/Kitchen, and it is usually watched from the Kitchen bench.
(Actually, the bottom edge of the TV is about 1600 mm from the floor and is above an "office computer" set-up. I had thought to tilt the TV slightly downward, as it is sometimes viewed while seated there, but SHMBO prefers it to be vertical - as shown.) 
I think that the "Bull-Nose" wall plates look ugly and I am not impressed by the ones that feature brushes. This discussion just goes to show that "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder".   

> Re cable plates, I just hole-saw a blank plate and job done.

    

> The hole behind the TV is through the mounting bracket flat plate, so no other plate needed at all.

  Yes, but if the hole near the floor is visible (which it is, in this case), a large hole does not look the best and needs something to fill it.

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## FrodoOne

> You will find that you can pull Two  pin Fig8 Power cables and / or IEC (kettle plug) plug cables through  bullnosed wall plates, as there is heaps of room.   You can get those recessed wall plate thingys the the big green shed (i think they still sell them). Also as phild01 mentioned you can always punch holes in the side if you need more cables to come through.

  1. That is fine if the TV comes with an IEC C13 (or similar) plug BUT it is of no help if the cable is *attached* to a TV without the equivalent socket. 
2. Re drilling holes for ELV cables in recessed wall-plate mountings : - There is a regulation which states that ELV* connectors* must not be within 150 mm of a LV connector unless the LV connector is "shrouded" or separated from the ELV connector, by wood or other insulating material.
 I don't know if this applies to ELV *cables* in this vicinity but I suspect that it may. 
(i.e.  May a TV Co-ax or HDMI cable be placed within 150 mm of the rear of an unshielded 230 V socket outlet and 
is one permitted to modify items, such as recessed mounting plates, approved for use with the 230 V supply?)

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## Armers

> 1. That is fine if the TV comes with an IEC C13 (or similar) plug BUT it is of no help if the cable is *attached* to a TV without the equivalent socket. 
> 2. Re drilling holes for ELV cables in recessed wall-plate mountings : - There is a regulation which states that ELV* connectors* must not be within 150 mm of a LV connector unless the LV connector is "shrouded" or separated from the ELV connector, by wood or other insulating material.
>  I don't know if this applies to ELV *cables* in this vicinity but I suspect that it may. 
> (i.e.  May a TV Co-ax or HDMI cable be placed within 150 mm of the rear of an unshielded 230 V socket outlet and 
> is one permitted to modify items, such as recessed mounting plates, approved for use with the 230 V supply?)

  Too true, quite rare these days though. You not into changing  plugs or that's not to you liking? 
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## FrodoOne

> Too true, quite rare these days though. You not into changing  plugs or that's not to you liking?

  Quite into changing plugs. (See my post of 11 September) 
However, I do NOT change them within the guaranty period of the device concerned. (When necessary, I have used an extension lead and coiled up the "excess" behind the device while waiting for time to efflux. 
While it may be rare these days I found one on my Daughter's Samsung TV last month.
Not only was the lead attached but I found that it was shielded - which I have since been advised is "normal" for Samsung.
To re-connect the shielding to the Earth pin (and I tested the cut-off plug to determine that it *had* been connected at that end) it was necessary to provide an insulated "sleeve" (green-yellow insulation from some scrap cable found in the tool box) for the shielding's "trace" conductors within the new side-entry plug, so that there were then *two* insulated wires connected to the Earth pin of the plug. I did not think that it would have been wise to leave a bare Earthed wire inside the plug housing, even although it was well away from the Active and Neutral terminals.

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## METRIX

> You also need to make sure it hooks on properly before you take you hands off the TV, suggest you hang it with a friend . lol 
> Cheers   
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

  Too true, sometimes you think it's hooked and it's not, the really slim brackets have two pull cords on them to release the latch.

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## METRIX

> It IS a "close-up" photo and the total "Stick-out" is 120 mm, largely because of the adjustable bracket.
> Without an adjustable bracket (and/or SOME stick-out) it is difficult to insert/remove plugs etc. without removing the TV from the wall, which is a major job and the extent of this should be remembered when contemplating a TV Niche. 
> .

  I always replicate all the plugs available on the TV to the wall plates behind the entertainment unit on the floor, this way if you want to plug USB, or another HDMI etc, every socket on the TV is replicated saves having to try and squeeze a temporary connection in behind the wall mount., and what I would definitely be doing for a niche mounted one.

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## Armers

> Quite into changing plugs. (See my post of 11 September) and Earth pin stuff

  Yes i do recall you saying that, my bad  :Biggrin:  And what a load of puff regarding the shield, that was on a 3pin flex and it hardwired to the unit!? bloody hell!! 
Cheers

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## Armers

Oooo i found a photo of a niche that was built by someone and i had to hang a tv into it..... no finished product though  :Frown:

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## FrodoOne

> I always replicate all the plugs available on the TV to the wall plates behind the entertainment unit on the floor, this way if you want to plug USB, or another HDMI etc, every socket on the TV is replicated saves having to try and squeeze a temporary connection in behind the wall mount., and what I would definitely be doing for a niche mounted one.

  I realise that you are doing this work commercially but for me in a domestic situation that might just be a bit of "overkill".
(Also, do you have an equivalent wall-plate behind the TV or just use long enough leads connected to (plugged into the rear of) the lower wall plate and push the excess into the cavity while mounting the TV?) 
The item pictured is one of three TVs in the house. You may note that its only inputs are the antenna co-ax (Picture 2, Right, below centre) and one HDMI input - derived from 2 Cat6 and an HDMI Extender.
The various devices under the main TV are fed through one of these (3D 4 IN 2 OUT Hdmi Splitter Switcher BOX FOR Foxtel PS3 DVI Camera Full 1080P OZ | eBay) and the two "remote" TVs are fed the same signal via an HDMI "splitter", one via an HDMI cable, plugs, sockets etc. through the wall (since it is in the next room) and this one, via about 25 m of Cat6. 
So, we actually use only one HDMI input on each TV and do all the switching via the splitter/switcher etc   

> Oooo i found a photo of a niche that was built by someone and i had to hang a tv into it..... no finished product though

  (I note what appears to be a Sound-Bar and two socket-outlets! [Ref: earlier posts.]) 
Since all (or most) of the inputs (except the power) seem to be on the left hand side of TVs these days, I wonder about having all the wall-plates on the right. 
However, it MAY actually be a good idea, considering that when two (or more) people come to mount the TV, connecting leads of sufficient length can be installed across the back of the TV just before mounting.  If the wall plates were on the left one would need to coil up the excess and hold it behind the TV as it was being mounted.

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## METRIX

> I realise that you are doing this work commercially but for me in a domestic situation that might just be a bit of "overkill".
> (Also, do you have an equivalent wall-plate behind the TV or just use long enough leads connected to (plugged into the rear of) the lower wall plate and push the excess into the cavity while mounting the TV?)

  Not really, plates and socket inserts are cheap, but you will pay more for good quality ones. 
All the ones I do want the TV to sit very close to the wall, and nothing to be seen from the sides (including the bracket), so I will use the recessed power point plates, and separate plate to pass the other cables through, 
It depends on what they want, most times will run the cables directly into the cavity and pop out at the bottom through another plate, this way there is no excess cables at the back of the TV and no extra connections to be made. 
These days you can find cables / sockets to convert everything to everything and change the gender of almost anything, so it's quite easy to build a custom solution.

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## Armers

No sound bar on that install all in ceiling speakers, that install was just a single HDMI a data cable and a run for and ir blaster.. As you see is how the clients  sparkie had left it for us.. The bottom two wall plates were used and replaced with a single gang and a internal bull nose.  
I'm spewing I don't have a finished pic, was a little hard as too many people walking around and had a lot more to do in that install lol 
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## METRIX

> I'm spewing I don't have a finished pic, was a little hard as too many people walking around and had a lot more to do in that install lol 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

  Well, that's unacceptable  :Biggrin:

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## Armers

They weren't happy I took those photos in the first place.. Ahh well plenty of other photos to look at.  
Oh btw, How's ya TV hanging going Barney? 
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## barney118

> They weren't happy I took those photos in the first place.. Ahh well plenty of other photos to look at.  
> Oh btw, How's ya TV hanging going Barney? 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

  Trust you to ask😂 sounds like I'm better off hanging direct to wall and cabling hidden. I do like the look of niches but as pointed out as TV sizes change it throws a spanner in the works  
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