# Forum Home Renovation Bathrooms  Must I use ahessive in villaboard lining

## ecsk

Simple question as in title say.  I imagine nail is strong enough to hold the villaboard in wall lining. 
If I must use adhessive, can I just use liquid nail ?

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## Gooner

James Hardie website has PDF of recommended installation methods for Villaboard. 
If I remember correctly, nails only is the recommened way. For a wall that will be tiled, I assume nail-only method is the only way to go. 
Problem with using adhesive is that it shrinks and expands depending on temperature. That is why you need about 200mm spacing between nail and adhesive points or else the expanding/contracting adhesive will pop the nail. If you do use 200mm spacing between nail and glue points then the fixing would probably not be strong enough to support the weight of the tiles. Therefore nail only is your best bet.

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## PlasterPro

:What he said:

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## Rod Dyson

Just to add, the nails are required to carry the weight of tiles. The glue can let go if it get damp.  shrinking glue can cause tile cracking.  
Cheers Rod

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## rodstar1000

Gday, not sure if the response will work. First time. I did it a few years ago in the bathroom, just nails and walls are still straight and holding up well. My tiles are floor to ceiling. Clouts are good enough.
Cheers
Rod

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## ecsk

Thank guys for the replies. Now I have another question  :Smilie:  
Should I install villaboard rough surface facing out ? i.e. tile on the rough surace.The smooth surface should normally facing out for painting application, it also has slope edge for filling up in budd join, the rough surface is all flat so I imagine it's better for tiling application.  
Or it just doesn't matter   :Biggrin:

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## Gooner

The recessed edge (for taping the join) should be facing out, and so this is the surface you should be tiling on.

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## Soley

Newbie question (and I think I already know the answer). 
So non-recessed edge facing out is bad?    and I should pull it down start again? 
Don't you just hate it when you have this niggling sense you've botched something - I think I have to pull the first sheet down and re-cut it (and this was the toughest sheet with the window cutout and 5 holes for toilet/basin services.

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## cherub65

least you have a template (might be in a few pieces) :2thumbsup:

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## lloyd the void

hey, not trying to hijack this thread, but what about for fixing villaboard to brick? Cornice cement? Liquid Nails? Screws and spaghetti into the brickwork? I can understand the need for a bit of flexibility when fixing to timber frame but maybe not a concern for fixing to brickwork? ta ladies and gents. 
p.s. happy St Patricks day.

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## rod1949

> Should I install villaboard rough surface facing out ? i.e. tile on the rough surace.The smooth surface should normally facing out for painting application, it also has slope edge for filling up in budd join, the rough surface is all flat so I imagine it's better for tiling application.  
> Or it just doesn't matter

  Like you say it dosen't matter.  Some will say should be smooth out.  I'vbe done both and prefer rough out better bondage.  As for filling the joint if you are tiling over it then don't worry about it as the tile adhisive mud will fill and support it.

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## Brettus

So, if the surface it going to be tiled, do you fill the recessed butt join and use fibreglass mesh tape or not?   I have found 50-50 opinions on this.  By the way I agree with rod1949 and dont this its necessary.

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## GeoffW1

Hi, 
If you put the rough side out, and then started hammering clouts in at the edge where it is not supported hard onto the timbers because of the recessed edge, wouldn't the sheet crack? 
Edit: so cut that edge off. Silly me. Might cause a bit of trouble with the sheet size though? 
Cheers

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## renov8or

I have a similar question. I am about to tile the bathroom wall to ceiling and the original tiles only went half way - with a thick cement bed behind (about 10mm). I have removed the tiles and leaving the cement bed to tile onto. I need to fix 9mm Villaboard to the top half of the wall to bring out level with the wall below. The wall is rendered brick. 
I am intending to screw board to wall with 8G screws and red spaghetti  - seems to be accepted way. However there are many thoughts on spacing/quantity of screws and what adhesive to use. Some say liquid nails, others cement based adhesive (powder mix up), and others cornice cement. Several blobs or a more thorough coverage? 
The largest section of wall is about 1m x 2.5m. I would like to screw down before adhesive dries to ensure it is flush against the wall but it will take a lot longer to drill and screw all over than the time the adhesive takes to dry I am guessing. Doing it in two pieces is one alternative. I was also thinking of using a couple of pieces of timber to brace the board against the wall using the opposite wall. The wall is painted so I expect to have to hit the wall with the grinder  to remove numerous patches of paint for adhesion.  
What have other people done re fixing Villaboard to rendered wall in similar situations. 
Thanks

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## renov8or

My last post has been moved to separate thread.

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