# Forum Home Renovation Tools & Products  Cutting straight and accurate with a circular saw

## ErrolFlynn

Is there jig I can get to help make accurate 90 degree cuts with a circular saw? 
Im new to circular saws and find that I tend to wobble off the line.  The easy but time consuming solution is to clamp a scrap of timber, that can be adjusted accurately with a square, and running the saw against it.   The trouble with that is that its a bother.  You spend 50 times the time setting it up than making the cut.  And the thickness of the guide can reduce the depth of cut if the saw motor gets in the way. 
Someone on this forum demonstrated holding a square against the job and running the saw against the square.  Sounds good but didnt work for me.  No doubt my lack of experience, coupled with only one hand on the saw (which I didnt really like doing) and the other hand on the square either of which or both may have moved a bit resulting in a dodgy cut. 
If I owned an engineering shop I would ask for it to be made as follows:  It would have two clamps so that it was secure.  The clamps wouldnt get in the way of the saw.  It would have a gauge (some sort of measuring thingy) so that I would know exactly where to position the guide so that the cut was just where I wanted it to be.  Obviously when clamped it would make the cut at 90 degrees.  However, it could just as easily allow for adjustments at other angles.  It would be strong but thin enough not to interfere too much with the depth of cut.  It would be made of a material (maybe nylon) that does not damage the saw.  It would be useful for guiding the saw over the face as well as the edge of the timber being cut.

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## CraigandKate

Buy a track saw, don't look back..

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## Marc

Yes a track saw is a good thing for strip cuts or panel cuts but the OP is talking about accurate 90 degree cuts and finds clamping a guide cumbersome so imagine using that contraption. 
Short of making your own jig for 90 degree cuts easy to clamp and that allows to use two hands, I think you should give another try to the square in one hand and the saw in the other. 
I do it all the time and it is just a matter of getting used to the weight of the saw. 
if you use a large circular saw and your arms are not used to swing that weight around, you will probably feel a bit wobbly. If the square you are using is not the right one you will probably also feel a bit uneasy. 
When it comes to cross cut, of course the way to go is a drop saw. If you must use a circular saw, use a lighter one and a square that has some edge to it for the base of the saw to slide against. I have an old metal protractor that I use for the odd job that I don't want to take to the drop saw.  Never been an issue to cut with one hand. Overhead can be  a bummer though.

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## phild01

I remember my old yellow circular saw guide, and worked like what Marc is explaining.  Worked well but a drop saw, no matter the cost or quality, is a much better choice.  Also consider a portable table saw, very handy for ripping (not large sheets though).  I'd like a track saw but have not much use for one as most sheet suppliers have better equipment for cut to size.

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## Marc

30 push up and 20 pull up every morning helps too  :Biggrin:

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## OBBob

Just make up a square jig out of scraps ... sort of like the old drafting squares but a bit meatier.

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## Pitto

_"If I owned an engineering shop I would ask for it to be made as follows: It would have two clamps so that it was secure. The clamps wouldn’t get in the way of the saw. It would have a gauge (some sort of measuring thingy) so that I would know exactly where to position the guide so that the cut was just where I wanted it to be. Obviously when clamped it would make the cut at 90 degrees. _ sounds alot like a tracksaw to me. oh, and when combined with a MFT table, you can get 90° cuts easily.

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## toooldforthis

> Is there jig I can get to help make accurate 90 degree cuts with a circular saw?...

  use a square to draw a pencil line for the cut
if the timber is a bit 'wonky' use the square on both sides to get a better idea of what is square/90deg. 
use the square to draw a vertical line on both sides of the timber - this gives you a guide on entry.  *practice.*
practice on softwoods
then on hardwood
then on seasoned hardwood.
the hard wood can drive your blade off the vertical even tho your cut is straight. 
a good blade makes all the difference.
some cheap blades can twist pretty easily.

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## David.Elliott

I've sold lots and lots of these..get two 50" ones with the joiner kit and you can do 2400 boards...  https://www.timbecon.com.au/site-sea...20tool%20guide 
One upside is by making a bunch of mounting boards you can mount your router, circ saw, jig saw etc.

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## justonething

First ensure you have a good quality circular saw with a solid base plate, otherwise you are not going to make perpendicular cuts.
There are a couple of jigs you could use.
1. For cross cut. The best jig I came across is the Kreg Square - cut   . 
You can also roll your own. Just screw two straight pieces of timber at right angle to each other or follow this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfM_6RBLx0Q 
2. Finally to do ripping well, you can make your own track saw fence, just follow this youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ztlx...ature=youtu.be

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## sol381

simple speed square is the go.. perfect cuts

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## ringtail

Adjustable protractor saw guide. Works great

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## OBBob

Damn it ... I just found about five new things I need to buy! Someone lock this thread.

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## r3nov8or

> I've sold lots and lots of these..get two 50" ones with the joiner kit and you can do 2400 boards...  https://www.timbecon.com.au/site-sea...20tool%20guide 
> One upside is by making a bunch of mounting boards you can mount your router, circ saw, jig saw etc.

   I have something like this and it works well. For short quick cuts I use one of those thick plastic Stanley roofing-angle squares which is thick enough to rest the saw edge against, and use my small 18v circ saw as it's light and easy to control. 
edit. Now I've read about a speed square, it's one of those I think  :Smilie:

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## Marc

I have used one like this for a decade and can not break it. Craftright Protractor And Saw Guide I/N 5660310 | Bunnings Warehouse

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## PlatypusGardens

Oh come on, clamping something to the workpiece doesn't take THAT long.   :Smilie:  
Get yourself either some strong spring clamps or some small-ish welding clamps.
A piece of 30x30 angle steel or a thin spirit level laying flat will clear the saw motor and off you go. 
And practise practise more practise. 
Hold the saw with both hands, go slowly and you'll be ok.

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## davegol

> a good blade makes all the difference.

  Don't underestimate the importance of a good blade, and make sure it's the right blade for the job. 
Ripping vs cross-cut blades make ALL the difference.
If you're fighting against your saw then you've probably got the wrong blade.
It should feel like you're cutting through butter  :Smilie:

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## Marc

Yes, sharp blade and lots of teeth.  :Smilie:  
200x200x10 plywood or steel or aluminium, a large multigrips, a square for checking and a hammer for fine adjustments should be quick enough for a makeshift guide

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## ringtail

> I have used one like this for a decade and can not break it. Craftright Protractor And Saw Guide I/N 5660310 | Bunnings Warehouse

  Only way to go IMO

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## ErrolFlynn

Thanks.  A lot of good stuff here.   
I had a revelation while watching the video for the "Kreg Square - cut" jig.  There is a raised handle on it which fits the palm of your hand.  Also, when I was using my try square on the timber I had the base of the square on the far side of the timber so that I was cutting toward my other hand.  It seemed a natural thing to do (pulling the square & pushing the saw).  The demo for the Kreg showed the guy cutting away from his hand.  And of course by leaning your body weight on the square its less likely to move.  Maybe I'll try using my try square again from the opposite end. 
I did like that site that David posted.  Lots of good stuff there.

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## PlatypusGardens

What size of saw are you using?

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## David.Elliott

> Only way to go IMO

  
I have one too, but just don't trust the angle markings...I mostly use mine to "pull off" an angle to cut timber to match. If I need to cut square, I set it up with a proper square first. Every now and again I use a handsaw (on pine) to keep my hand i too...

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## ringtail

Oh for sure. I always set mine with a 600 mm square first.

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## ErrolFlynn

> What size of saw are you using?

  A small Hitachi.

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## phild01

> I have used one like this for a decade and can not break it. Craftright Protractor And Saw Guide I/N 5660310 | Bunnings Warehouse

  Saw one of these at H&G today for $15 so remembering this post I bought it.  After a closer look, it might be I'll never use it.  It seems you need to hold this on the off-cut side of the saw which is counter-intuitive.  I would want a guide held with the left hand on the left hand side of the saw.  This one needs to be on the right hand side....what am I missing, as with a bit of elevation, it would fit under the body of the saw.

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## David.Elliott

Nope, you hold the short edge against the far side of the timber with your right hand, and use the left hand side of the saw base against it.
The "long" side is what you cut against...

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## phild01

> Nope, you hold the short edge against the far side of the timber with your right hand, and use the left hand side of the saw base against it.
> The "long" side is what you cut against...

  That's pretty much what I said, I certainly don't want to hold it in such an awkward way...did a leftie design this thing!

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## phild01

Just had another look and I can use it sensibly if I have the guide held the other way around on the opposite side of the timber, but not sure it is ideal.

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## PlatypusGardens

I'm not sure how you're looking at it, Phil. 
From here it looks as if the bit that swivels would be the bit you rest against the workpiece, at the top, at the opposite side from where you're standing, like an "L" rotated 180 degrees,  with your left hand, and run the saw against the long side whith the markings. 
which would mean the saw is in your right hand.  
Unless you start at the other end and cut towards yourself...?   :Rofl:

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## phild01

> I'm not sure how you're looking at it, Phil. 
> From here it looks as if the bit that swivels would be the bit you rest against the workpiece, at the top, at the opposite side from where you're standing, like an "L" rotated 180 degrees,  with your left hand, and run the saw against the long side whith the markings. 
> which would mean the saw is in your right hand.  
> Unless you start at the other end and cut towards yourself...?

  Yes, that was my second take on it, don't think I like it.  Will need to try it out then. I haven't used a circular saw for this type of cut much, but it might be handy at times (instead of SCMS).  Have to be rid of my crappy Hitachi saw and get a new Makita, though.

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## Marc

> Saw one of these at H&G today for $15 so remembering this post I bought it.  After a closer look, it might be I'll never use it.  It seems you need to hold this on the off-cut side of the saw which is counter-intuitive.  I would want a guide held with the left hand on the left hand side of the saw.  This one needs to be on the right hand side....what am I missing, as with a bit of elevation, it would fit under the body of the saw.

  What do you mean? You hold the guide in your left hand with the short side on the top edge of the timber and the long side as a guide ... the saw slides along the guide ... that's the only way to use it. Unless you god one for left handers?

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## Marc

> Nope, you hold the short edge against the far side of the timber with your right hand, and use the left hand side of the saw base against it.
> The "long" side is what you cut against...

   Even better ... David, you must have two right hands. I hand it to you it must be pretty handy    :Smilie:

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## justonething

I have had one of those protractor thingy for a long time, never liked it. First the right angle marking is out by half a degree or something. Second when you lean against the edge, the edge moves and you are cutting at some other angle. Thirdly, you always have to measure how far from the cut line you should place the protractor. The Kreg square cut cost me only 12 bucks from Amazon, cheaper than the protractor. Cross cutting with a hand held saw is a breeze and I wondered why I wasted my money on that thing.

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## Marc

As far as the angles, I have used it to make scarf joint and had no problem. Surely it is not a precision tool, no good to measure angles to cut gears on a lathe that's for sure. May be ok to measure elevation of a cannon in artillery practice, but that's  about it.
I give you that the wing nut digs in your fingers when you want to tighten it well and you have to keep it tight. Mind you I have pliers for fingers. If you don't tighten the wing nut well, it will move.
All in all for the money ... that is almost nothing... it is a reasonable tool.
Sure there must be something better made in Switzerland. If there is I have not seen it.

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## PlatypusGardens

So much fuss over something so simple. 
Fear not, the doctor is in the house  :Sneaktongue:     
Take two of these      
One of these     
And call me in the morning.        
Call me anything you want, really, as long as it's not "late for dinner"   :Wink:      
Pssssst... You could rivet a second piece of angle to the first one for 90 deg cuts.
Same with 45.     :Smilie:

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## justonething

I never bothered with anything other than a right angle cut. half a degree out from a right angle is too much for me. I will have night mares if I leave it crooked like that. :Frown:

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## PlatypusGardens

> I never bothered with anything other than a right angle cut. half a degree out from a right angle is too much for me. I will have night mares if I leave it crooked like that.

  
I got too carried away once when building a box and forgot to double check that the SCMS was set on 0 and cut my last two pieces of ply on 2 degrees.   
*siqh*

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## phild01

> What do you mean? You hold the guide in your left hand with the short side on the top edge of the timber and the long side as a guide ... the saw slides along the guide ... that's the only way to use it. Unless you god one for left handers?

  Yes Marc, as I said, that was my second take on it, just have to try it for myself....what have I been missing out on :Blush7:

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## Marc

Funny how we can build up a thread on nothing. 
PG, I like your idea, you are on the right track!  How about you drill two holes in the angle, screw it to the timber to be cut and so you can use both hands!  I think I will patent my invention tomorrow. Don even need clamps that way ...  :Smilie:

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## phild01

> I have had one of those protractor thingy for a long time, never liked it. First the right angle marking is out by half a degree or something. Second when you lean against the edge, the edge moves and you are cutting at some other angle. Thirdly, you always have to measure how far from the cut line you should place the protractor. The Kreg square cut cost me only 12 bucks from Amazon, cheaper than the protractor. Cross cutting with a hand held saw is a breeze and I wondered why I wasted my money on that thing.

  That one is like the yellow thing I mentioned earlier except with the one I had, you saw cut part of the plate off so you had your automatic mark.  If I dig it out I'll have to put a pic up.

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## Marc

I want to see a picture of David with two right hands

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## justonething

> That one is like the yellow thing I mentioned earlier except with the one I had, you saw cut part of the plate off so you had your automatic mark.  If I dig it out I'll have to put a pic up.

  I want to see your yellow saw guide  :Smilie:

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## phild01

> I want to see your yellow saw guide

  Just put it up as you were typing,  must have known you would ask :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

> How about you drill two holes in the angle, screw it to the timber to be cut and so you can use both hands!  I think I will patent my invention tomorrow. Don even need clamps that way ...

  
Endless possibilities.  
What will you call this invention?
This angle.......this angle with holes.... *The holy angle*???

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## PlatypusGardens

> I want to see a picture of David with two right hands

  
And two left feet?

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## Marc

The holy angle at work

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## ringtail

> What do you mean? You hold the guide in your left hand with the short side on the top edge of the timber and the long side as a guide ... the saw slides along the guide ... that's the only way to use it. Unless you god one for left handers?

  
I use mine however it suits but mostly hold the guide with the right hand on the side of timber closest to me and cut with the left hand. Yes I'm ambidextrous but this way is the easiest IMO and the guide stays on the uncut timber rather than on the offcut

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## PlatypusGardens

Abidextrous...yeh I am too actually. 
Never really think about it, but sometimes people say "are you left handed?" when they see me using a hammer/saw/drill/whatever with my left. 
Just depends on the situation.  
One thing I struggle doing with my left hand however is brushing my teeth.
Near on impossible. 
weird.

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## Marc

Y :Biggrin: our left or your right teeth?

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## PlatypusGardens

> Your left or your right teeth?

  
Sorry that was a typo. 
I meant tooth, not teeth

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## Marc

I think that the problem using this type of guide comes from the fact that circular saw if they are corded, have the motor on the left of the blade. If the blade is all out there will be little room for the guide between the body of the motor and the timber. A cordless has the motor (usually) on the other side and perhaps that is the reason for this disparity of comments. 
Retracting the blade a bit will make room for the guide and if right handed, holding the guide with the left is the way to go. 
A light saw or a strong arm will allow to use either hand for the saw. It is a matter of getting used to it

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## Marc

> Sorry that was a typo. 
> I meant tooth, not teeth

  Yes, I thought of saying your right or your left tooth but then reconsidered in case you get offended ... huhu

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## METRIX

> One thing I struggle doing with my left hand however is brushing my teeth.
> Near on impossible. 
> weird.

  Get an electric tooth brush, best thing I ever did says my Dentist, not sure why as never gets money from me anymore, just the regular clean / checkup all ok now.

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## PlatypusGardens

> Yes, I thought of saying your right or your left tooth but then reconsidered in case you get offended ... huhu

  All good mate, fire away.   :Smilie:    

> Get an electric tooth brush, best thing I ever did says my Dentist, not sure why as never gets money from me anymore, just the regular clean / checkup all ok now.

  
Didn't know Bosch made toothbrushes. 
Must be a bit heavy with that big batterypack hanging off it?

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## PlatypusGardens

> I think that the problem using this type of guide comes from the fact that circular saw if they are corded, have the motor on the left of the blade. If the blade is all out there will be little room for the guide between the body of the motor and the timber. A cordless has the motor (usually) on the other side and perhaps that is the reason for this disparity of comments. 
> Retracting the blade a bit will make room for the guide and if right handed, holding the guide with the left is the way to go. 
> A light saw or a strong arm will allow to use either hand for the saw. It is a matter of getting used to it

  
I haven't measured my little Makita saw, but I think it clears 30mm under the motor with the blade all out... 
Will have a look later

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## METRIX

> Didn't know Bosch made toothbrushes. 
> Must be a bit heavy with that big batterypack hanging off it?

  Nah, nothing clumsy about this one,

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## phild01

You scrub up ok, Metrix :Wink 1:

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## PlatypusGardens

Pretty rough Photoshop job.
I expect more from you Metrix.    :Frown:

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## goldie1

> Yes I'm ambidextrous

  Can we keep religion out of this

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## OBBob

> You scrub up ok, Metrix

  He looked better in his younger Makita days...  :Tongue:

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## METRIX

> Pretty rough Photoshop job.
> I expect more from you Metrix.

  Don't have a lot of time at the moment, currently moving house, so photoshop will have to suffer  :Biggrin:

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## Marc

> Can we keep religion out of this

   Why? 
He may be ambidextrous, I am obnoxious, so what!

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## goldie1

> Why? 
> He may be ambidextrous, I am obnoxious, so what!

  And I have a black belt in the karma  sutra

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## Marc

Is that a religion?

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## goldie1

If the ATO  will give me tax deduction status it is

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## Bloss

> Only way to go IMO

  Used a similar one for years, but check markings as they are often out by 1-2 degrees . . .  
For quick 90 & 45 cross cuts up to 150mm wide I have used for years a Stanley ABS quick square Stanley Quick Square® ABS Pocket Square | eBay and works for R or L-handed users. I have a yellow and a green one - the fluoro colours make finding easier too.

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## PlatypusGardens

> He may be ambidextrous, I am obnoxious, so what!

  I'm ubiquitous, generous and sometimes a bit mischievous    :Biggrin:

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## Marc

I used to be a follower of St. Ubiquitous but have now converted to Obnoxiousism. I find it much more satisfying and practical.  If I get questioned by my obnoxiousness I simply say it is demanded by my religion.
I have yet to explore the tax deductions avenue, but do not practice de-capitalisation

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## Wombat280

Just to add to the T Square  ides I've used these they are low enough to let the saw motor pass

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## METRIX

> Just to add to the T Square  ides I've used these they are low enough to let the saw motor pass

  That is until you have to put a clamp on the open end, they it hits the saw. 
Build your own from Plywood, and you can put clamps on it out of the way of the motor

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## rockyysdt

> I have had one of those protractor thingy for a long time, never liked it. First the right angle marking is out by half a degree or something. Second when you lean against the edge, the edge moves and you are cutting at some other angle. Thirdly, you always have to measure how far from the cut line you should place the protractor. The Kreg square cut cost me only 12 bucks from Amazon, cheaper than the protractor. Cross cutting with a hand held saw is a breeze and I wondered why I wasted my money on that thing.

  How much was the International Shipping? 
I find shipping from the U.S. can be crippling.  
Carbotec also sell them for $24.00 but you either pay them $9 shipping (Australia Post) or spend half a day driving to one of their few locations.  
The jig Izzy Swan knocked up seems to be a homemade version of the same thing and might be a good cheap first option.

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## justonething

> How much was the International Shipping? 
> I find shipping from the U.S. can be crippling.  
> Carbotec also sell them for $24.00 but you either pay them $9 shipping (Australia Post) or spend half a day driving to one of their few locations.  
> The jig Izzy Swan knocked up seems to be a homemade version of the same thing and might be a good cheap first option.

  I bought mine together with a number of other things, the additional shipping cost was not noticeably more. You can check it yourself, as soon as you add it to your cart. the shipping cost is calculated immediately.

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## rockyysdt

> I bought mine together with a number of other things, the additional shipping cost is not noticeably more. You can check it yourself, as soon as you add it to your cart. the shipping cost is calculated immediately.

  
Thanks J O T. 
I think your Amazon Shopping Cart interactions will automatically calculate shipping because you're a member. 
For me, the shipping fields aren't accessible without creation of a customer/account.

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