# Forum Home Renovation Doors, Windows, Architraves & Skirts  Large gaps around exterior window. Fill in?

## basKTcase

Hello. I've been inspecting around the exterior of an established house we moved into, and noticed that several of the windows have these large gaps at the bottom edges of the window frames. Curiously, some appear to be sealed all the way with the black seal material, while others fall short and thus leave a gap. See below: 
Gaps  
Gap covered   
Is the inconsistency a sign of lazy construction?  
Should I seal off these big gaps or do they serve a critical function? During windy days, we can hear wind getting into the cavity of the walls that are facing the wind and causing rattling and the plasterboard to sort of flex with an audible crack/pop. 
I have read about a few options in sealing gaps, such as expanding foam, backer rods, and sealant. Any recommendations on best practice? 
Cheers!

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## cyclic

No pics but new house, contact the Builders in writing to remedy the faults asking them to attend withing 14 days 
after which if you are not happy, make a claim to BSA or whoever looks after this stuff in your area

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## basKTcase

> No pics but new house, contact the Builders in writing to remedy the faults asking them to attend withing 14 days 
> after which if you are not happy, make a claim to BSA or whoever looks after this stuff in your area

  Sorry, added in the missing pics. 
It's an established house built many years ago, so unfortunately no one to complain to! 
What DIY things can we do to remedy it?

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## droog

The black rubber strip is a seal attached to the window, it is there to allow for movement of the window which is attached to the timber frame and the brick veneer of the house.
The inconsistency is most likely due to different settling and or shrinkage of the timber frame. 
If you fill the gap too tightly it is likely to result in bent or bowed bottom track on the windows if there is any more movement.
They are as designed except for the gap at the end which is due to the rubber shrinking with age in length.

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## cyclic

Lift the rubber seal firstly and give us a pic with the seal lifted up showing under the rubber seal.
Also a pic from back a little showing the whole bottom of the window left to right and brick sill.

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## basKTcase

> Lift the rubber seal firstly and give us a pic with the seal lifted up showing under the rubber seal.
> Also a pic from back a little showing the whole bottom of the window left to right and brick sill.

  When I try to lift the seal, I get a lot of resistance. This is as far as I can get without risk of ripping it off completely and having to repair it.   
Here is a wider view of the bottom of the window frames.

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## Bart1080

The gap on the left side, I've had the same with a couple of windows.  The gap was simply calked with a flexible black and no issues, nor is it noticeable.  Main reason was we are in a fire area and wanted to avoid the likely hood of embers however same would apply if your concerned with moisture entering the hole.....or a wasp/bee nest from developing.

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## basKTcase

The gaps seem to have a steep drop once the brick and mortar end. Will the caulk have enough to adhere to or should I fill the holes with something first?

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## Bart1080

it will be fine, thats normal as there is a cavity between the brick work and the stud wall. 
Your dont need to "fill" the cavity, just the hole.   I've typically done it in one go, pushing the calking around the edge of the hole (side brick, bottom brick and under the window) then filled the hole in ever smaller circles.  Smooth it off carefully with your finger.  ...some sections of utube videos below may assist.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJ_gSKtKVtw
technique for filling a large gap at 1min to 1.45  ...keep in mind, its an acrylic sealant and yours being outside in the elements will likely be silicon based but the filling technique is the same  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q70K2lWRa0s
4min 25sec mark using dish washing liquid to smooth however yours is such a small hole that it wont be a big deal.

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## intertd6

The rubber seal slides in a grooved slot in the aluminium sill, you should be able to slide the seal along to the side where it is short, there is supposed to be clearance between the frame & the brickwork, the clearance for a 2 storey frame is even more to allow for the timber frame shrinkage.
inter

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## basKTcase

> The rubber seal slides in a grooved slot in the aluminium sill, you should be able to slide the seal along to the side where it is short, there is supposed to be clearance between the frame & the brickwork, the clearance for a 2 storey frame is even more to allow for the timber frame shrinkage.
> inter

   Thanks. Yes that does seem to be the case upon further examination. I'll probably buy strips of rubber seals from Bunnings to close up the gaps. 
Should I be closing off these gaps in the first place or could it have been left exposed for a reason? I'm mostly worried about water and weather ingress by leaving them opened.

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## droog

> Thanks. Yes that does seem to be the case upon further examination. I'll probably buy strips of rubber seals from Bunnings to close up the gaps. 
> Should I be closing off these gaps in the first place or could it have been left exposed for a reason? I'm mostly worried about water and weather ingress by leaving them opened.

  As stated in post 4 and others, the gap underneath with the seal are there for a reason, that being for frame movement in relationship to the brick veneer. The gap at the end of the seal is due to the rubber seal shrinking with age and not there for a purpose.
Fill the gap to tightly and any movement in the future is likely to damage the windows. 
Using rubber seals like the manufacturer did is the best solution.

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