# Forum Home Renovation Plastering  Gyprock jointing compound recommendations??

## Jonesy_SA

Hi guys
I have two back blocked recessed joints about 2200 long to joint and flush. Gyprock offers two systems. For the novice they recommend their All-Purpose evaporative compounds such as Gyprock Total Coat-Lite (dry or premix) or premix Total Joint Cement both can be used for all 3 coats.
For the more experienced they recommend the chemical setting base coats for 1st and second coat then a separate final coat. From what I can see this is the better joint however marketed at professionals because of quicker dry time? Is one better over the other, recommendations?
Because of the small job I would use the Base Coat 45 (as its the only one in a smaller 10kg bag)  however what is recommended final coat? Gyprock publication says you can use any All-Purpose or specific final Topping Coat products; see here: Gyprock plasterboard jointing compounds - Gyprock
There is however no details on how or which final coat to choose. What would you recommend and why is there light and heavy versions?
Cheers guys

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## joynz

For jointing, use the premixed total joint plastering compound if you are new to plastering.  The one product does all three coats. 
The powder is very hard to sand when dry (bitter experience) but the premixed total cement compound is easy to apply and to sand.  
Use paper tape on the joints.

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## Jonesy_SA

Which powder did you compare to? The Gyprock Base Coat or something else?

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## joynz

> Which powder did you compare to? The Gyprock Base Coat or something else?

  From memory, base coat 45.

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## phild01

I suspect the all in one product would not be as strong.

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## Rod Dyson

> I suspect the all in one product would not be as strong.

  its strong!

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## phild01

> its strong!

  What would be the reason for using standard basecoat over an all-in-one?

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## joynz

Works out cheaper.

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## Jonesy_SA

Hi guys 
Thanks for the assistance. 
What size broadknifes and tooling would you recommend? Does this look about right?
1st coat – 150mm broadknife
2nd coat – 200mm trowel or broadknife
3rd coat – 300mm trowel 
For my job it seems cheaper and simpler to use an all purpose product. I spoke with CSR and was recommended Gyprock Easy-Flow which is apparently the same compound as Gyprock Pre-Mixed Total Joint. Easy-Flow is marketed for trade whereas the Total Joint is marketed for DIY and sold through Bunnings etc. Easy flow is also quite a bit cheaper when bought directly from CSR.  
I was also advised the all in one product are not quite as strong, less resistant to water and have a much greater drying time (24 hrs); the premixed versions are more expensive. Base coats are not usually recommended to inexperienced due to mixing, quick drying time, and issues sanding if not scraped when green.

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## phild01

> Hi guys 
> Thanks for the assistance. 
> What size broadknifes and tooling would you recommend? Does this look about right?
> 1st coat – 150mm broadknife
> 2nd coat – 200mm trowel or broadknife
> 3rd coat – 300mm trowel 
> For my job it seems cheaper and simpler to use an all purpose product. I spoke with CSR and was recommended Gyprock Easy-Flow which is apparently the same compound as Gyprock Pre-Mixed Total Joint. Easy-Flow is marketed for trade whereas the Total Joint is marketed for DIY and sold through Bunnings etc. Easy flow is also quite a bit cheaper when bought directly from CSR.  
> I was also advised the all in one product are not quite as strong, less resistant to water and have a much greater drying time (24 hrs); the premixed versions are more expensive. Base coats are not usually recommended to inexperienced due to mixing, quick drying time, and issues sanding if not scraped when green.

  I tend to use a 75/100 first followed by 150/200 for recessed joints.  I use the 300 to finish more expansive areas where profiles are used, or butt joints.  I just have them all at hand and use them as seems necessary to get a flat finish. Not saying how the pros do it, just me :Smilie:  
Great to hear the update from CSR too.

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## anakin

I am a complete amateur, but I have purchased just about every Gyprock compound possible as part of my project to skim coat all the walls in my house, and here's what I've found: Easy Flow and Pre-Mixed Total Joint Cement are not the same -- Easy-Flow is a lightweight compound (i.e. has perlite added as a lightweight filler), whereas the Total Joint Cement is heavyweight compound. You can tell this if you go into Bunnings and pick up both buckets - the Easy Flow bucket is bigger than Total Joint Cement, yet weighs significantly lessEasy Flow seems "fluffier", is easier to mix water into, and spreads easier and further than Total Joint CementHowever in my view Easy Flow seems to have a slightly "grainier" texture, and thus the finish is not as smoothHeavyweight compounds (i.e. Total Joint Cement) are apparently more durable than their lightweight counterparts (although I haven't done a "scratch test" to prove this), but more prone to shrinkage. Neither of these are really an issue for my application, I am sealing with Gardz which makes the finished compound go rock hard anyway.I couldn't see the Total Joint Cement in my local CSR trade store, I guess the pro's don't buy it because it's more time consuming/difficult to use 
I think from now on I am going to stick with the Easy Flow
Gyprock also have a new grey bucket "Ultra AP" which has now appeared on the shelves at my local Bunnings, this is about the only one I haven't tried yet   :Biggrin:  
As for the setting-type Base Coat compound, I guess this is probably similar to cornice cement (but maybe not quite a strong?) and not really sandable. However I've never tried...  
Hope this helps

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## wozzzzza

ok confusing, soo many options to choose from.
what would be the best for a bathroom ceiling? I have to repair a 1 meter x 1 meter section.

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## anakin

For a bathroom you will need to use a compound specifically designed for wet areas, otherwise you will find that the compound "melts" if it gets wet.

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## phild01

You can use normal setting cements in bathrooms.  The waterproofing takes care of the rest.  A modern bathroom should be well ventilated and painted with a decent bathroom type paint.

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## Jonesy_SA

Hi all 
Last coat went on this evening (fingers crossed). I was a tad heavy handed and it is difficult to get a smooth continuous strip on a ceiling with A-frame ladder so sanded down a bit after the second coat. The 24 hour drying period is painful but a lot easier than base coats Ive used. 
Some OT questions:
Sanding:
For sanding joints I have a hand sander that takes 108x372mm sheets and will probably pick up a block/sponge to touch up screw heads: Uni Pro Large Hand Sander | Bunnings Warehouse Rocket Medium Sanding Sponge | Bunnings Warehouse (the pad itself is abrasive you do not wrap it in paper)
-        CSR recommends sanding sanding down Easy Flow with 180grit whereas some other products suggest as fine as 220+. Is there any advantage to finishing with 220 grit or finer; or will the texture stand out as different from the plasterboard?
-        My joints are slightly curved, higher in the center. The run-out might be a few mms either side of say 270mm joint; is this an issue or should i sand it as flat as possible? 
Cornice installation:
-        The videos and guides all show installation on stud walls using nails to support the cornice while it dries. Silly questions but how do you support it on masonry? 
Many thanks 
Cheers

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## barney118

I've tried both and I like the mix yourself base coat, it spreads better, feathers better.  
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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