# Forum Home Renovation General Odds & Sods  finish for Tassie 'oak' handrail?

## ForeverYoung

Green Shed have this 'oak' handrail which I am thinking of using (internal).
Anyone have any suggestions on what to finish it with to get a nice oak look? Porta 44 x 33mm 3.0m Handrail Tasmanian Oak Round Select - Bunnings Australia 
I saw this pic on FBMP and it doesn't look too bad, probably the same handrail.

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## METRIX

Do you want to stain it or leave it in its raw colour ? 
Personally I would go with natural the stained one in the picture it looks a bit fake. 
For longevity an oil based polyurethane will do the trick, although, water based poly is a good option as it dries quick and is easy to recoat in the future if it needs a bit of a touch-up.
I would go with the CFP version as it's a flooring product so it's naturally tougher and it won't yellow over time like an oil based product will.
If you want to stain it first then a different product may be recommended.  https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds 
The smallest tin the water based comes in is 1L, the Matt version is really nice as it gives the timber a natural uncoated look. 
Personally I would go with a hardwax oil, it's easy to apply, gives the timber a very natural look, is super easy to recoat in the future, and is very hard wearing. https://www.fiddesaustralia.com/product/hard-wax-oil/

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## ForeverYoung

> ... 
> Personally I would go with natural the stained one in the picture it looks a bit fake. 
> ...

  Thanks for that.
Will look into all those recommendations - the hard wax oil sounds the go. 
Reason I asked is the FBMP seller said that one was just coated in a water based varnish and it made me question the greenshed 'oak'.

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## ForeverYoung

> ... 
> Personally I would go with a hardwax oil, it's easy to apply, gives the timber a very natural look, is super easy to recoat in the future, and is very hard wearing. https://www.fiddesaustralia.com/product/hard-wax-oil/

  I sourced some Fiddes here in Perth.
125ml - enough for a handrail.
I'm not sure about the product? Neither wax nor oil? More varnish.
Specs say 2 coats - I got to 4 before I was even reasonably happy.
Not sure how it would go on floors?
Still, staircase is safer now. Well, feels safer. False sense of security  :Smilie: 
Can easily remove and try a wax sometime. 
Had to get oval, impossible to find a round here in Perth from greenshed that was usable.
Probably a good thing - house is old and ramshackle; not 'modern'.

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## METRIX

Looks good, you should only require 2 coats max, Rubio Monocoat only requires one coat, but most will still apply two. 
It's a different type of product to the regular water / oil based, when applying, putting on less is the best, as it binds to the timber in a different way to regular products. 
Best to apply it with a white non scratch sourer, let it sit for 30 seconds, then wipe off excess, I have never needed to use more than two coats. 
It depends on the "look" you are after, if it's that traditional glossy look, you won't get it with these types of products, as they soak into the timber and protect it from below the surface, so you tend to get that matt / uncoated / natural look.
I have coated most stuff here in hardwax because it gives the timber a natural look that most other coatings can't achieve, because they sit on the surface.

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## Arron

I sourced some of that Porta Tassie Oak dowel/handrail from Bunnings. I wanted it to closely match our European Oak engineered floors. I used Cetol HLSE in Light Oak. Lovely silky feel and perfect match to our light oak floors. 
I had to wait weeks for Bunnings to get any 43mm handrail in.

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## ForeverYoung

> Looks good, you should only require 2 coats max, Rubio Monocoat only requires one coat, but most will still apply two. 
> It's a different type of product to the regular water / oil based, when applying, putting on less is the best, as it binds to the timber in a different way to regular products. 
> Best to apply it with a white non scratch sourer, let it sit for 30 seconds, then wipe off excess, I have never needed to use more than two coats. 
> It depends on the "look" you are after, if it's that traditional glossy look, you won't get it with these types of products, as they soak into the timber and protect it from below the surface, so you tend to get that matt / uncoated / natural look.
> I have coated most stuff here in hardwax because it gives the timber a natural look that most other coatings can't achieve, because they sit on the surface.

  I used a brush and did thin light coats.
I didn't want the gloss look which is why I tried this.
Just took a bit to bring up the colour and grain.
Happy enough, thanks for putting me onto it. I didn't know about the way it binds to the timber.   

> I sourced some of that Porta Tassie Oak dowel/handrail from Bunnings. I wanted it to closely match our European Oak engineered floors. I used Cetol HLSE in Light Oak. Lovely silky feel and perfect match to our light oak floors. 
> I had to wait weeks for Bunnings to get any 43mm handrail in.

  I went to a bunch of green sheds - all the round handrail they all had was warped, a couple even split and cracked.
They didn't have the oval until I went back to my local (the 3rd time) - happy I go that now cause it suits the house better. And a few people have commented they like the oval grip better.

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## METRIX

> I used a brush and did thin light coats.
> I didn't want the gloss look which is why I tried this.
> Just took a bit to bring up the colour and grain.
> Happy enough, thanks for putting me onto it. I didn't know about the way it binds to the timber.

  I noticed Feast Watson have release a Hardwax product now. 
FYI, Bunnings have a Hardwax product in the Kaboodle kitchen section, it's made in Germany.
I have used it on a few projects and found it to be a really nice product. 
It's best applied with white scourer, and remove excess with a soft cloth, this gives the best protection and finish.
The colour of the timber will get better after about 3-4 weeks once the product has fully cured. 
If you ever come across the OSMO product out there, walk straight past it as it's a POS, I had lot's of problems with it and wound never recommend it.

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## ForeverYoung

> I noticed Feast Watson have release a Hardwax product now. 
> FYI, Bunnings have a Hardwax product in the Kaboodle kitchen section, it's made in Germany.
> I have used it on a few projects and found it to be a really nice product. 
> It's best applied with white scourer, and remove excess with a soft cloth, this gives the best protection and finish.
> The colour of the timber will get better after about 3-4 weeks once the product has fully cured...

  Thanks.
Was thinking that that I'll not need to do anything else but then...
When I moved into this place needed some functional bits ang got some KMart bamboo products for the bathroom including a cabinet for towels etc 
which is rubbish. 
I'll need to pull it apart and get the doors sliding. Might try a hardwax on that?
Some of the bamboo pieces like the bath tray etc show mould pretty easily. 
I also have gotten this fireplace fender which might get a restore one day.

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## METRIX

If they are in a bathroom, I would go for a poly or similar, bathrooms are harsh environments, and timber loves to go mouldy in them them.  
You could go for something like CPF Floor (water based) this is a pretty tough product. 
Or spray can clear coat, these are pretty tough as well.

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## ForeverYoung

> If they are in a bathroom, I would go for a poly or similar, bathrooms are harsh environments, and timber loves to go mouldy in them them.  
> ...

  good advice, thanks.

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## Arron

[QUOTE=ForeverYoung;1138699]
When I moved into this place needed some functional bits ang got some KMart bamboo products for the bathroom including a cabinet for towels etc
which is rubbish. 
I'll need to pull it apart and get the doors sliding. Might try a hardwax on that?
[/nQUOTE] 
Probably its been sprayed with some type of industrial lacquer. Whilever the lacquer is there it will prevent a penetrative finish from getting below the surface, so they are not compatible.

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## ForeverYoung

> Probably it’s been sprayed with some type of industrial lacquer. Whilever the lacquer is there it will prevent a penetrative finish from getting below the surface, so they are not compatible.

   quite right - I was going to sand it all back anyway - if I keep it.

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