# Forum Home Renovation Tools & Products  Ozito rotary hammers, what size to buy?

## Jonesy_SA

Hi guys,  
I'm looking at buying a cheap rotary hammer drill and the Ozito line is the cheapest and rate well for DIY. They come in two sizes at $80 and $129ish.
The smaller one will be fine for powering through tiles but would it have the guts to knock thick mortar off masonry (see my bathroom Reno thread)? 
I have one of their 18kg Demolition breakers which paid for itself in one day so don't mind the odd cheapy.

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## METRIX

Hard to say, as there is no specifications on the units on their wedsite, I would just get the bigger one,

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## phild01

I think you will find the smaller one will do the mortar.  If you have a lot to do, be wary that weight of the unit comes into play as it does become tiresome. 
I have a 620W Dynalink, an 820W Ozito and a 920W something else.  They all work as well as each other before they failed a drilling or hammer action.  I now have a much lighter Makita. 
I think I should have bought something good initially when you consider the cost of all of this, though I have done a  lot of work with them.

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## METRIX

Weight is not much between the two 900 grams, bigger one has a bigger motor MORE POWER  :Biggrin:  .  Ozito 850W Rotary Hammer Drill Kit I/N 6290249 | Bunnings Warehouse  Ozito 1500W SDS+ Rotary Hammer Drill I/N 6290261 | Bunnings Warehouse

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## phild01

Just added to previous post.

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## phild01

> Weight is not much between the two 900 grams, bigger one has a bigger motor MORE POWER  .  Ozito 850W Rotary Hammer Drill Kit I/N 6290249 | Bunnings Warehouse  Ozito 1500W SDS+ Rotary Hammer Drill I/N 6290261 | Bunnings Warehouse

  Isn't the difference 1.1kg!

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## METRIX

Yes youre right, and your also right in saying to buy a good one to start with, not only is it better environmentally because you won't be land filling a tool which has become useless. 
Also it's more pleasurable to use the better quality tool from day one, plus that $250 one you had your eye on to start with, ended up costing $378 when the cheap $49 you bought failed, then the less cheaper $79 failed then you ended up purchasing the $250 in the end. 
Figures above provided as a hypothetical case and are not meant to reflect your actual or factual situation, I plead innocent your honour   :Smilie:

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## phild01

Probably comes down to how much work you expect to do, though I almost always find that expectation is well and truly exceeded (exception being my biscuit joiner).

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## Batpig

Just thinking back to when I was using an Ozito similar to the current two on offer at Bunnings a few years back Jonesy, the feature it didn't have that I wished it had the most was a good ol' humble "trigger lock". Neither of those Ozito's have one, nor do the majority of the name-brand units that are similar to them in style (ie. with a vertical motor hanging underneath). I take it that you are wanting to use the thing for chiselling(?) If yes, let me assure you that you will quickly wish you had a trigger-lock - especially when it is time to do the walls... 
As such, it might be worth your while to instead consider something more like this house-brand offering of the in-line-motor type from TradeTools: https://www.tradetools.com/products/RI24RH
It wont quite have the grunt that the vertical-motor-style units have got, but it will be kinder on your forearms due to being lighter, as well as having the trigger-lock (which will also help to save your forearms, surprisingly...)
Anyway, they also have some other dearer and gruntier name-brand units of the same in-line-motor style, so perhaps you might find something that fits the bill amongst them: https://www.tradetools.com/category/...?PageProduct=1
(There's five more on the second page, by the way.) 
Best Wishes and Good Luck,
Batpig.

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## phild01

:Arrow Up: I agree that type might be the better choice.

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## barney118

I have the 850w and its done some damage over the years and payed for itself many times over, i use this for drilling for dynabolts over a std hammer drill all the time now.

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## Marc

The 850W is now 900W and $21 more

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## DuckCommander

I bought the 900W one a couple of weeks ago. Did drilling into concrete well. It died after mixing 3 bags of render. Took it back to the green shed and got the 1500W model. Doesn't even strain mixing render. Should've got it in the first place but was swayed by some comments here.

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## METRIX

More power is always better, but your old returned one will probably be headed for the tip, if Bunning's sell them for around $99, they must buy them for around $60, distributor pays $30 probably cost $10 to make, can't see them repairing it, after they repair whats broken and put a new case on it as it cant be sold with any scratches etc it will just be dsiposed of. 
This is what I hate about these cheap tools, they don't last long, then get dumped by either their owners or by the manufacturer / seller, I have always been one for buying the better quality tool. 
I noticed IKEA now are selling drills and drivers, as if they dont already produce 90% of the junk you see in each clean up week,  such as lounges / bookcases that have only lasted a few years then simply fell apart, we don’t need them also selling rubbish drills. 
1 speed, simple drilling http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/70203264/ 
Or you could upgrade to the 2 speed one gear model FIXA Screwdriver/drill, li-ion - IKEA 
Or if your really want a powerful one that will break your wrist go for the hammer version FIXA Hammer drill, li-ion - IKEA 
It doesent make sence to buy the above when you can buy a nice entry level Bosch 14.4v with two batteries and proper charger for $99 and you don't require hammer when you can get the non hammer masonry bits such as the german made kango's.  Bosch 14.4V Cordless Drill Driver Kit I/N 6200119 | Bunnings Warehouse Kango 8mm x 120mm Multi-purpose Drill Bit I/N 6350294 | Bunnings Warehouse 
The below AEG 12v driver and impact is what I get my clients to buy for home use, comes with 2.0A and 4.0A batteries, proper charger, both are suprisingly strong and light units and very comfortble to use.
At $199 with soft carry bag their a bargain, 6 year / 3 year warranty, 40Nm for the drill, 126Nm for the impact these will be going long after the IKEA ones have given up and are living the rest of their life buried in a tip.  AEG 12V Cordless Drill/Driver And Impact Driver - 2 Pack I/N 6230191 | Bunnings Warehouse

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## DuckCommander

G'day Metrix. I agree totally about buying top quality tools, they're superior in every way and I have in the past always stuck out a bit longer to get the better tool.  
However, now I have other commitments and am on a budget. I've come to accept that some low use tools I don't have to spend the big bucks on. I'm not a tradesperson so I really couldn't justify spending a grand on a good hammer drill. I generally look at the cost of hire, number of times I need to use it, and weigh that up against the cost of buying a cheapo. If it fails within the warranty I can get a replacement if it does after I would've already gotten my use out of it. 
A couple of cheapos I have given a hiding and are still going strong. An 18kg Full Boar demo hammer (staff told me they're just a rebranded ozito) has paid for itself several times over. A small 500W XU1 corded hammer drill managed to finish off mixing 20kg of mortar when the hammer drill died (it wouldn't have survived mixing the whole bag I might add).  
On the other hand for high frequency use stuff or when quality is required I'll part with the dollars for example my cordless drill and impact driver are the top model Makitas I could get at Bunnings.

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## Random Username

I, I, I, I 'v, v, v, v, v, e-e-e-e, b, b, b, b, e-e-e-n-n-n-n, h, h, h, h, h, a, a, a, a, p, p, p, p, y-y-y-y-y-y-y (trigger off)
with my 1500 watt Ozito, but it is an old fashioned design and kind of (trigger on)
u, u, u, u, u, nnnnnnn-nnnnnnn-nnn, e, e, e, e, e, r, r, r, g, g, g, g, o, o, o ,o ,o, n-n-n-n-n-n-nom-ic-ic-ic-ic!

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## METRIX

> I, I, I, I 'v, v, v, v, v, e-e-e-e, b, b, b, b, e-e-e-n-n-n-n, h, h, h, h, h, a, a, a, a, p, p, p, p, y-y-y-y-y-y-y (trigger off)
> with my 1500 watt Ozito, but it is an old fashioned design and kind of (trigger on)
> u, u, u, u, u, nnnnnnn-nnnnnnn-nnn, e, e, e, e, e, r, r, r, g, g, g, g, o, o, o ,o ,o, n-n-n-n-n-n-nom-ic-ic-ic-ic!

  You need to buy a new one with Anti Vibe Technology, such as.   https://sydneytools.com.au/bosch-gsh...r-with-sds-max  https://sydneytools.com.au/bosch-gsh...olition-hammer  https://sydneytools.com.au/hitachi-h...olition-hammer

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## Marc

Even when it is a quick indication of the tool power, the watts written on the tool is power input, that is, how much electricity it uses up not how much power it puts out. 
The power output is part of the efficiency of the tool and that goes well past the simple power output of the motor. More expensive tools use the max power output like if it is a maratone, the cheaper tools are sprinters that may sprint 1500watt for 100 meters and then die.
I have an older DynaDrill that reads 1200W yet it beats any ozito hands down. My Hitachi medium size jackhammer only has 1400 watts and my ancient Bosch Brute breaker is just 2000w

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## METRIX

Same here, I have a Nifisk 1000W shop Vac (old style) and it sucks better than others I have seen rated at 2000W.
Better design, and more efficient use of the resources.

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## phild01

My tendency has been to equate cheap Chinese power tools at about 75% of equivalent wattage top brand tools.

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## justonething

So this one from Aldi is actually 1200W :Smilie:  On sale this Sat. Has anybody ever used one?

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## OBBob

They've certainly taken the supermarket product range to another level haven't they.   
Edit: I wonder if that level has screw adjustments for calibration.   :Smilie:

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## METRIX

I would not be trusting that $24 digital level to be too accurate. 
Looks the same as thew Full Boar one from Bunnings, only half the price Full Boar 1750W Heavy Duty Demolition Hammer I/N 6290254 | Bunnings Warehouse 
or this is another cheapy.  https://sydneytools.com.au/thump-too...hammer-breaker

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## OBBob

> I would not be trusting that $24 digital level to be too accurate.

  Ah yes, just a joke with reference to one of Phild01's recent comments.   
Love the name of that Sydney Tools thumper!

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## phild01

> Edit: I wonder if that level has screw adjustments for calibration.

  HA HA, On my round trip Thornleigh Dural Bunnings today, I checked all the levels and all preset.  I just can't believe that such a critical tool is no longer made to be self calibrated!

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## OBBob

> HA HA, On my round trip Thornleigh Dural Bunnings today, I checked all the levels and all preset.  I just can't believe that such a critical tool is no longer made to be self calibrated!

  I noticed this one at Masters has screws holding reach of the vials... I'm not sure if they are actually intended to allow adjustment though.   http://www.stanleytools.co.uk/product/184277

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## phild01

> I noticed this one at Masters has screws holding reach of the vials... I'm not sure if they are actually intended to allow adjustment though.   Stanley UK - Fatmax I Beam Level

  The adjusting screw would normally be spring loaded at one end of the vial.  Those screws for the Stanley, if adjustable, would be very difficult to get right.

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## Marc

> So this one from Aldi is actually 1200W On sale this Sat. Has anybody ever used one?

   There is not much to a jackhammer, just brute metal, that is probably a good one for non commercial use. Can't go wrong for 200 bucks.
I once bought a Makita knock off very similar to that one. I had to demolish 40m of full brick retaining wall and dig out the footings. I use the big bosh breaker for the footings but couldn't lift the bosh horizontal so used the chinese  for demolishing the wall. I had two recurring problems with it. One it kept on breaking the pin that keeps the tool in place. The chinese made the pin too hard and so if the chisel got stuck and you pull up and action the hammer at the same time, the hammering hits the pin and it brakes. The importer kept on sending me new pins for me to keep on breaking them. I finally got sick of it since they are not easy to pull out, and took the latest arrival and threw it in the fireplace. next day I pulled it out and fitted to the jackhammer and it never broke again. The other problem was that it stopped altogether. With a brush motor, there isn't much that can go wrong. You either burn it or you have a brush problem. Since I did not burn it, I pulled the brushes out only to find that they fit too tight in the casing. I asked for new brushes yet the new one were just as tight. 
Solution? Sandpaper. Sanded the sides back enough for the brushes to fit loosely so that the spring can push them all the way, and the bastard is still working today. Since I bought a Hitachi this one is having a quiet life, but from time to time someone wants to borrow a jackhammer and gets this one  :Biggrin:

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## justonething

> Ah yes, just a joke with reference to one of Phild01's recent comments.   
> Love the name of that Sydney Tools thumper!

  I reckon this cheap one, like all digital things, is self adjusting.  e.g. it will allow you to reset to zero at any time. Not that I can be 100% sure though.

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## METRIX

> I noticed this one at Masters has screws holding reach of the vials... I'm not sure if they are actually intended to allow adjustment though.   Stanley UK - Fatmax I Beam Level

  I noticed that Stanley level according to their website, is "choc" resistant, does that mean vanilla and strawberry will damage it  :Biggrin:   :Biggrin:    MaxEdge center vial : bridged center vial for continuous marking surface*Shock absorbing end caps  makes it long lasting & choc resistant* Pencil included, quick help for marking

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## OBBob

> I noticed that Stanley level according to their website, is "choc" resistant, does that mean vanilla and strawberry will damage it     MaxEdge center vial : bridged center vial for continuous marking surface*Shock absorbing end caps  makes it long lasting & choc resistant* Pencil included, quick help for marking

  Ha ha, no ... clearly it means you can also use it for stopping you car from rolling down an incline.   
I also see that it isn't the type of adjustment that Phild01 is after ... but he's now started me checking levels every time I go near a hardware  :No:  so I needed to register some progress.  :Biggrin:

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## phild01

> Ha ha, no ... clearly it means you can also use it for stopping you car from rolling down an incline.   
> I also see that it isn't the type of adjustment that Phild01 is after ... but he's now started me checking levels every time I go near a hardware  so I needed to register some progress.

  Choc resistant means it is happy with any other flavour :Sneaktongue:  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): .
Thanks OBBob, looks like this:

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## METRIX

> Ha ha, no ... clearly it means you can also use it for stopping you car from rolling down an incline.   
> I also see that it isn't the type of adjustment that Phild01 is after ... but he's now started me checking levels every time I go near a hardware  so I needed to register some progress.

  I havent seen an adjustable level for many years, I would have to run under the assumption that manufacturing techniques and tolerences are at such a high standard for the good levels that you should not need to adjust them, we have dropped our Stabilas off 2nd stories onto concrete a few times, they just bounce, checked them and they were still perfect. 
There is this one, but when you see the words Quality Product stamped on it, you know it's rubbish  :Tongue:   Aluminum Spirit Level With Adjustable Vial Manufacturer From Jinhua China   
Here are Stabila's new R beam, with Vials guaranteed for life, and locked vials which never need adjustment.  Stabila - Product Detail

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## OBBob

Yep agree with this ^ plus the fact the replacement prices are so much less than they would have been some years ago.

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## justonething

> I havent seen an adjustable level for many years, I would have to run under the assumption that manufacturing techniques and tolerences are at such a high standard for the good levels that you should not need to adjust them, we have dropped our Stabilas off 2nd stories onto concrete a few times, they just bounce, checked them and they were still perfect. 
> There is this one, but when you see the words Quality Product stamped on it, you know it's rubbish   Aluminum Spirit Level With Adjustable Vial Manufacturer From Jinhua China   
> Here are Stabila's new R beam, with Vials guaranteed for life, and locked vials which never need adjustment.  Stabila - Product Detail

  I would never buy a level that you can't view the bubble from the top.

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## OBBob

You can view the one Metrix posted from the top... it's just very solid.

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## justonething

My bad, they have a cut out in the top flange :Smilie:  fair enough, the long ones  >= 90cm are probably alright

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