# Forum Home Renovation Heating & Cooling  Vulcan Oil Heater

## Larry McCully

Howdy All, i just jumped over from the flooring section and i thought one of you fellas might be able to help. I have a old Vulcan Oil burning heater that ran out of Oil. I tested the solution by dripping a bit on my finger and trying to identify it. It smelt like diesel and felt like it, so i went and bought some and tipped it in the holding tank. Is this the correct oil to use, If it isnt, any help would be appreciated...Larry

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## BRADFORD

I don't think they use diesel I think it is a special heating oil
In any case this could well be the most expensive way to heat your house, I'd be looking at pulling it out and installing gas or some other form of heating. 
Regards Bradford

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## Smurf

It's fuel oil #1 or diesel #1 (same thing fundamentally, but "diesel" is for engine use and is a more refined product than anything termed "fuel oil" (though sometimes diesel is sold as fuel oil to simplify operations in smaller markets)). 
Road vehicles (trucks, buses, cars etc) with diesel engines run on diesel #2 which is also very widely used as fuel oil (fuel oil #2). 
What are these numbers about? Fuel oils are numbered 1 to 6 with 1 being very light (thin) oil and 6 being very heavy oil that is solid without heating. The higher numbers are used for industrial boilers, ships, power stations etc and are significantly cheaper since it's a less useful, lower grade product. 
#1 is commonly known as "heating oil" for obvious reasons (note that overseas #2 is commonly also known as heating oil, and that is still used quite commonly for heating in the US etc). #6 is also known as "heavy fuel oil" or "heavy residual oil". #2 and #6 are the most commonly used grades, 3 - 5 being rare or even unobtainable in some countries. 
Whether or not the Vulcan would run on #2 I'm not sure. But in Tassie it's still easy to get proper #1 heating oil delivered and it costs about $1.30 per litre which is the same as the local price of diesel at the servo. 
How does it compare? Here in Tas it works out slightly cheaper than a plug in electric heater on normal tariff and significantly cheaper than LPG. But it's more expensive than wood, any kind of wired in heater (which are metered separately at a lower rate here in Tas) or mains gas.  
You'd need to check local prices to compare, but the Vulcan will produce about 7 kWh of heat into the room from a litre of oil. That is equivalent to 31.5 MJ of natural gas (in a typical flued heater), 0.63 kg of LPG, 7 kWh of electricity (2.3 kWh if used in a heat pump) or 2.6 kg of wood (in a slow combustion heater).  
You'd need to check local fuel prices to compare. Natural gas (not LPG) is almost certainly cheaper than oil as is a heat pump (reverse cycle air conditioner). For the others it will depend on what you're paying locally since rates vary considerably around the country. :Smilie:

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## Larry McCully

Awesome smurf, thanks for all that, but i live in a rented house and i dont think the landlord will like me converting to gas, unless it is as simple as hooking up a gas bottle. Question: Is it possible to turn # 2 into #1 . Is it a matter of diluting it with something ?

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## China

My mate runs diesel in his vulcan all the time he works for a wrecker and gets it for free

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## Larry McCully

Thanks China. 
Does any one know where i can download a manual..........

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## BRADFORD

You learn something every day, don't know why but I always thought they were very expensive to run. 
Regards Bradford

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## Larry McCully

I do believe gas is cheaper, but i dont have the luxury of rippen it out and converting it.

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## Smurf

> Awesome smurf, thanks for all that, but i live in a rented house and i dont think the landlord will like me converting to gas, unless it is as simple as hooking up a gas bottle. Question: Is it possible to turn # 2 into #1 . Is it a matter of diluting it with something ?

  Since you're in Sydney I'd be surprised if there wasn't someone able to just deliver a load to you assuming you've got a normal sized tank (they are 100 gallons usually, that's a bit over 400 litres). 
I'd look in the Yellow Pages or alternatively try contacting one of the major oil companies - I've had cause to do that a couple of times and they've been more helpful than you might assume for a big company.  
Caltex and Shell both have refineries in Sydney so are most likely to be supplying low volume products such as this in that city. The minor companies wouldn't, but at least one of the big ones (Caltex, Shell, BP, Mobil) is probably still able to send a tanker around to your house. 
Here in Hobart, a local company sells the oil under their own name but I'm told it's Caltex fuel they distribute. Maybe something similar in Sydney if the major companies aren't selling directly to the public these days (they all used to when it was a widely used product). 
Having a tanker turn up out the front isn't the hassle it might seem. They just use a very long hose that reels out then self retracts - exactly like an air hose does at the servo. There's a pump and meter on the tanker so you just pay for however much you buy. Only point to note is there's generally a minimum purchase (I think it's $250 in Hobart) but there's no charge for delivery as such - you just pay the price for the oil and that's it. 
I'd try the delivery option if you've got a decent sized tank - about the same price as diesel from the servo with no messing about.  :Smilie:  
As for diluting diesel, well if I was going to try that then I'd try kerosene. That's lighter than the heating oil but it won't blow up like petrol etc would. For the record, the oil companies themselves actually use #1 diesel to dilute ordinary (#2) diesel for use in alpine regions which can cause problems with ordinary diesel. So they are certainly still refining #1. 
One thing though, DO NOT USE PETROL, AVGAS, PAINT THINNERS, TURPS, METHS OR ANYTHING ELSE HIGHLY VOLATILE. Otherwise you might need the fire brigade... You want fuel that burns gently like diesel, kero etc and not something whcih explodes like petrol does. DO NOT USE PETROL.

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## q9

When I go home on the weekend I'll scan the manual for ours and add the pics to this post. 
Ours still works great, really gets the house warm.  We use around 200 litres a year, which costs us around $350 (depending on the oil price of course). 
Gas may be cheaper, but for the capital cost alone of the removal, gas connection and installation of a new heater, I can run the oil heater for around 10 years...and they charge around 60c a day now to have a gas connection to the house, winter or summer, so the economics don't really work out for converting.

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## HeidiG

Here are some images of the instructions and brochure for the Vulcan Heater.  I've been using diesel for some time without problems - it burns a little blacker if the air inlet is not kept high.

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## Smurf

53,500 BTU - that's equivalent to 15.7 kW which is a pretty serious heat output that shouldn't leave you cold. 
Only downside to these heaters is the fuel cost. But for moderate use that shouldn't be a problem (it would cost a fortune in a cold climate though).

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## b0bcatz

Can anyone tell me how to get to the starter element on a Vulcan Oil Heater. Have just bought a house in Southern Tasmania that has one installed but it doesn't work properly and someone suggested it may be the element but I've tried taking the thing apart but still can't find the element.
Thanks in advance.

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## Smurf

In what way is it not working properly? What is it doing / not doing that it shouldn't / should be?

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## b0bcatz

Hi smurf, 
The Red Light does not go out after the expected time, and the heater only seems to get to a very low temperature. I obtained starting instructions from Jacksons in Hobart and have followed them to the letter. It was suggested to me that perhaps the "starter" element was not working. I went to the Tas Appliance store who said there were two different elements and I would need to take the old one out to determine which one I needed. I happily admit I am floundering here and no NOTHING about these heaters. 
Thanks for responding, hope the extra info is useful.

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## Smurf

A few questions (just trying to work out what's wrong...). 
First thing I'd do is make sure the air is adjusted properly - if that's wrong then you certainly won't get much heat out of it. Does your heater have a manual air adjustment knob? 
I've only used these, never repaired one, so can't really comment on the element issue. But if the oil is burning then the element must be getting hot since that's what starts the oil burning.  
1. Does the light go out eventually? 
2. What colour are the flames and is it burning evenly? Normally should be blue with just a slight yellow tip to the flame. And it should be burning steadily, quietly and evenly with no gaps in the flame and no "flare ups". A nice, soft blue flame is what you should see - not like a blow torch and not somthing that looks like a row of candles either. 
Gaps in the flame = too much air. Roaring like a blow torch (blue flame) = too much air. Flare ups = also likely due to too much air.  
Yellow / orange flames = not enough air. Black soot building up on the glass or ceramic parts of the heater = not enough air. Smoke coming out of the flue (outside) after it's warmed up properly = not enough air.  *If there is an air knob, try turning it to minimum setting once the heater is going and observe the flame. Then turn it up slowly to get rid of any yellow, but not to the point that it starts to blow the flame out.*  
3. Is the fan working and turned on when the heater is running? This won't affect how it burns, but without the fan you won't get much circulation of heat into the room.

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## linusgeoff

Hi Smurf,
You seem to know a bit about these Vulcan Oil Heaters. I am no longer able to obtain heating oil in our area so I went over to using diesel and it works fine. However, the glass has gone black and I can't see the flame any more. The heater is certainly working well as it puts out plenty of heat. I notice that someone else had this problem and they were told to add more air. My heater only has one knob on top whereas some apparently have two (one for air control). How do you suggest I adjust the airflow or is it not possible on my heater?
Also, how do I get to the inside of the glass to clean it?

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## esimpson52

My son bought a house with one of these old oil heaters in, and it works perfectly and is very, very hot.  I dont know how to clean the glass, as we have an elderly chap in our town who still services these oil heaters.  He services them and cleans them, but of course cannot get parts for them now, but apparently nothing much goes wrong with them. We put a mixture of 120 litres diesel to 80 litres kerosene, as told to us by the Ampol man, who is in his 60's and has an oil heater also and thats what he puts in his oil heater. This cost us $322 for the 200 litres. That half fills the tank and apparently if run 24/7 on low it would last about 3 weeks.  The chap who services them told us that was the right mix for the oil heater, as if you put straight deisel in it creates too much soot and turns black.
Hope this helps for anyone regarding heating oil and mixtures.

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## lawsmeister

We recently had one of these removed from our house. We only used if for one year but as our place is badly insulated we went through quite a lot of oil.   
We bought our oil from a company call Rapid Oil that can be found in whitepages or yellow pages.  Cant' remember what the cost/litre was.  I'd also suggest getting it service before you use it.

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## fireant

Would anyone have an instruction manual for this heater ?
Installation manual ?
I have tenants who need all the help they can get on how to operate this thing
Cheers

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## Smurf

> Would anyone have an instruction manual for this heater ?
> Installation manual ?
> I have tenants who need all the help they can get on how to operate this thing
> Cheers

  I don't have the official instructions but if it's one of the older models (which were commonly coloured grey) then: 
1. Turn oil knob to low (not off).
2. Turn air knob (if it has one) to low.
3. Pull ignition lever. This is usually on the left hand side of the front grill.
4. A light should come on inside, visible through the front grill (maybe it won't work if the bulb is blown...).
5. *After a few minutes*, flames will start to appear behind the glass.
6. Now adjust the oil knob to give the required heat, and the air knob to give a blue flame without it blowing out. If the flame is yellow then you need more air. If there are gaps where it's being blown out, you need less air. Should be a nice, consistent smooth flame.
7. *The fan control operates independently of the heater air controls* and is usually at the bottom right hand side of the front grill. The fan circulates heat into the room, but has no effect on the actual combustion of the oil. 
Easier than it sounds once you've done it a couple of times. Main thing to realise is that it does take a few minutes to light as it has to heat the oil before it catches fire, unlike gas which starts burning straight away. 
Obviously, make sure there's oil in the tank and that any oil tap (at the tank) is turned on before doing any of this. Also make sure there is electricity supplied to the unit otherwise the ignition won't work. There's often a switch somewhere near the heater to turn the power on/off. Freestanding heaters may be simply plugged in.

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## fireant

Thanks Smurf

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## fireant

One more quick question Smurf
How do you clean the inside of the glass ?

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## alsandrik

Hi we have a vulcan oil heater in excellent working order. Will take any thing and just need someone to remove.

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## wpeter

To clean glass 
Burning with the right air mix, or a little extra air might burn it off. If not.... 
For a built in heater, this is what I do 
1 turn off the electricity to the heater
2 lift off the plate surrounding the grill/glass
3 the panel below the glass is removed with a screw each side, tilt it forward, remove earth wire and neon light on LHS before lifting out the way
4 remove the large brass nuts only (3/16 thread) (not the smaller ones 1/8)
5 lift the glass off the front. 
Different types of heaters will have  similar procedure 
Previous post - if the pilot light isn't going out, check that the thermostat is next to the fire box. The thermostat is a aluminum cylinder 1inch around, two inches long under the LHS of the fire box. may need to remove the cover below the glass. It should be sitting in a bracket. If it has not been replaced properly and is not in a bracket with only the terminals outside the edge of the firebox then the light is likely to stay on. 
The heating element is in the LHS of the firebox, and really shouldn't need checking - I doubt it would go wrong. 
To remove firebox,
1 follow instructions above to remove glass
2 remove radiants (white porcelain bricks)
3 remove cover plate below glass
4 remove the thermostat - push through the hole to the left of it. no need to disconnect wires
5 disconnect two wires to heating element on left of firebox (to element)
6 remove screws on each side of firebox
7 remove oil pipe going to bottom centre of fire box
8 slide box forward and out 
To clean the inside of the firebox, (needed every now and then)
Remove baffles inside firebox
Lever up clip on each end
Look on long sides of baffles for tabs and grooves and slide in one direction so they align
Turn and lift out top baffle
Same for triangular baffle below it.
With long screwdriver etc scrape or chip out all the black rubbish in the bottom (wear safety specs or have someone handy to clean your eyes out) 
Put back together........
Cross fingers.... 
Good luck

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## fosterb

Hi guys, 
Recently purchased a 1960's house in Forrestfield WA. Has a Vulcan oil heater which needs to go... from what I can see, it also has over half a tank of oil left.  
Happy for someone to come and remove it / take it off our hands, free of charge. Otherwise just come and take the oil if you're running low...  :Smilie:

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## patty1304

Hello,
I noticed you posted this a while ago although do you happen to still have the Vulcan heater?

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## 60shouse

Hi we have a Vulcan heater with tank (still has 140L of heating oil), we are looking to get rid of if you are anyone else is looking for. We are in Dianella, WA.

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## stockysan

Does anyone know where to get oil from for these things? Does anyone still do deliveries of it? (In Perth). 
60shouse - I'd take that oil off your hands but I'd have no ideea how to get it to Sdcarborough safely! 
Thanks & regards
Andrew

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## ralph1malph

> Here are some images of the instructions and brochure for the Vulcan Heater.  I've been using diesel for some time without problems - it burns a little blacker if the air inlet is not kept high.

  You're out of warranty!  :Smilie:  Hope it it doesn't break down!

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## Smurf

> Does anyone know where to get oil from for these things? Does anyone still do deliveries of it? (In Perth).

  I'm not sure about Perth but here in Hobart Caltex still does heating oil and also kero. The actual deliveries are done by an independent firm (Jackson's) but it's Caltex fuel they are delivering. 
Might be worth a call or email to the Caltex office (not a servo, look up the WA administration office or email the company direct) and ask them. Failing that, try the other major oil companies - BP, Shell etc.

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## stockysan

Thanks Smurf. I just found out that Reliance Petroleum deliver it in Perth. About $1.50/litre, minimum 220 litres. 
Trouble is I only want about 20 litres to do a test and see if they still work. Can only find Binnings selling it 4 litres at a time very expensively. 
Andrew

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## Smurf

> Thanks Smurf. I just found out that Reliance Petroleum deliver it in Perth. About $1.50/litre, minimum 220 litres. 
> Trouble is I only want about 20 litres to do a test and see if they still work.

  See if they'll let you fill a jerry can at their depot (or wherever they park the delivery trucks overnight). If you explain the reason and assure them that you'll buy a decent amount of oil from them if the heater works then it would make business sense for them to let you do that. 
I used to work just around the corner from Jacksons in Hobart. They actually had heating oil on a bowser at the depot - quite obviously it wasn't unusual for them to sell it from there rather than delivering. I used to run it in one of those portable industrial fan heaters and they never objected to filling the jerry can.

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