# Forum Home Renovation Home Theatres  Wall mount TV 'stand' onto bessa brick wall

## burn

Hi, 
I've shortly got to mount a 50kg TV using an appropriate wall mounting (rated at 62kg) on a Bessa brick wall. The mounting I believe is essentially an L bracket with two bolts which go into the wall. 
The instructions for the mount apparently say 'consult a builder when mounting on hollow brick'. 
My questions are :Redface:  
1. Is there an alternative to putting a bolt thru the entire brick and put a 'big steel washer' - read as a piece of 6mm plate steel. 
2. Are there toggle bolts rated to carry such a load and should/could I trust them? 
Thanks in advance 
Burn

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## Jacksin

G'day burn I think I would go through the wall as its an awful lot of weight to trust to conventional fixings. How thick is the wall you are going to mount this bracket on?
The other blokes may have better suggestions.
Jack  :Wink:

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## Barry_White

I used to install roller doors which are more than 50kg's on besser block walls using Ramset 12mm Plastic Delta Plugs using 3/8" coach screws. 
 I have also used Ramset Epoxy fastening systems to fix them.  
 A TV would basically be a static load where as a roller door has a lot of constant movement and vibration and I have not seen them give way. 
 Just make sure the fixings are at least two courses down from the top.

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## Harry72

Nah you got to be very carefull with hollow bessablock walls, its best to spead the load over a large area. Bolt through can be trouble if its overtightened, or subjected to much vibration.(they have very little mortar area horizontaly compared to normal bricks)
A steel plate that covers several bricks in each direction with small dyna/toggle bolts every 150-200mm around the perimeter.
Alternately you could make up a "T" shape brace from some angle iron that covers 4-5bricks high and wide, weld on some tabs for the TV mount.
Dont put bolts in any mortar!

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## burn

Thanks Guys. 
Barry, I am concerned that there is a risk people will continually move the TV around - given the 'seating' area and we would be mounting close to the top of the wall. 
Harry, I like your T-bar suggestion for the 'washer' on the other side of the wall to spread the load in all directions.
I don't know if I can get one made in time (next weekend install). Given I could only get strips would two horizontal - say 400 x 100 x 5 be almost as good? 
Burn

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## Jacksin

Pivotelli used to make wall and ceiling TV supports (the type you see in pubs). 
With the ceiling type the base swivels and tilts to allow movement and will support 60KG, provided you can access the roof space to secure timber for fixing.
Jack   :Wink:

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## journeyman Mick

The very top course in an exterior besser block wall will be core filled. It's the equivalent of a solid concrete beam (that's why it's called a bondbeam) If you can get it in there you won't have any problems. Alternatively the outer walls will have filled cores (verticals) as well, usually every 1.2 M (in cyclonic areas anyway). Cores either side of door and window openings are also filled. Rapping on the walls should locate the filled cores. 
Mick

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## Iain

Pivotelli are good but there are now a lot of cheaper Asian brackets that work as well, just look at the packaging for the load capacity, 50kg is a bloody big TV.

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## vsquizz

When I lived in a bessa-brick bomb shelter in Cairns I had the same problem.  I put two 3 x 2's up against the wall and whacked a few ramset bolts into the bricks and then tied the tops into the steel roof frames.  Varnished the timber, mounted the tele, put a couple of lightweight shelves underneath for the mossie coils, Rid, vinegar, stubbie holders and bar-b-setteronlighter..Hey presto, the landlord was so grateful he made me take it down when I moved out. :Shock:    But hey it worked. 
And another thing..I once knew a girl that we all called besser..because she was as thic.........thats another story :Biggrin:   
Cheers

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## Harry72

Squizzy's suggestion sounds good, and could be very practical with the shelfs.
To top if off it would be the cheapest and easiest suggestion so far, good one Squizzy!

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## soundman

50 kg I hope your feeling strong.
But back to the point.
It depends on how many mounting points there are in the bracket & how they line up with the brickwork.
If you can get into the centre webs of the bricks you'll have a better chance with whatever fastener.
I've hung equipment that heavy on dynabolts & its still there. 
But I'd be looking for 4 to 6 bolts of at least 8mm x 40mm and placed well.
If you are handing 50 kg you need to be sure it will hold at least 100kg.
I would want to be able to do chin ups of the front edge of that bracket.
cheers

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## boban

Or you could go the really cheap option and sell both the TV and bracket and get a plasma.  At about $5,000, it will save you a lot of trouble.   
I'm trying to use the same reasoning on SWHMO. No luck as yet, maybe you'll do better.

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## Iain

Perservere as I did, I finished up in hospital with plasma  :Biggrin:   :Biggrin:   :Biggrin:  
The bruises are just starting to fade now  :Rolleyes:

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## Pulse

The ramset website has a pdf file specifiing how to anchor to bricks and blocks:  http://www.ramset.com.au/PDF/SpecifiersRB/Ch23to28.pdf 
Basically, stay 2 courses from the top, use 1 anchor per cavity, ie 2 per block. Stay 60mm from the edges. You can use either short dynabolts or other mechanical anchors or use a chemical anchor like chemset. 
Cheers
Pulse

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## journeyman Mick

> The ramset website has a pdf file specifiing how to anchor to bricks and blocks:  http://www.ramset.com.au/PDF/SpecifiersRB/Ch23to28.pdf 
> Basically, stay 2 courses from the top, use 1 anchor per cavity, ie 2 per block. Stay 60mm from the edges. You can use either short dynabolts or other mechanical anchors or use a chemical anchor like chemset. 
> Cheers
> Pulse

  On exterior besser block walls the top course is the best place for fixings, it's where the trusses or rafters are tied in and is the strongest section of the wall. 
Mick

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## arms

hi,the trick to having hang off a wall is to realise that the weight is mostly tear weight and not shear weight,to fix a weighty item to a wall you must first assertain if the wall can carry or hold the weight first,when the situation of tear weight comes into play the top fixing simply pulls out of the holding substrate,this is common due to underestimating the load capabilities of the backing ,shear weight is a lot more as the weight has to be over 50 times the weight of force downwards to directley cause a fault

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## bitingmidge

Or if the sheer weight causes a failure, there'll be tears!!
(sorry Tom!  :Biggrin:  )  
P (Is it Friday yet????)  :Biggrin:

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## arms

sorry,tare,tear.trrrr,you know what i maen !!!! ha ah  
P (Is it Friday yet????)  :Biggrin: [/QUOTE]

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## Trent The Thief

Hi, 
 Can you get Tapcon fasteners? I've use them for any application where I need to fasten something block, brick, concrete to mount heavy shelving, conduit, junction boxes, etc.  
 Hell, I've even used them to fasten a couple 2x's to a wall to use as a step up to work on wiring in a joist space where a ladder wouldn't fit. 
 One of their strongest features is that you can easily remove them with a screwdriver or nutdriver/ratchet.  
  Tapcons rock.   https://www.confast.com/products/tap...cretescrew.asp

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