# Forum Home Renovation Roofing  Barge board, bedding pointing and leaks

## Ramoun

Hi, 
I've got californian bungalow with a gamble roof, recently I had the roof replaced.   
Before the re roof I replaced all the barge boards and most of the rafters as they where rotten. 
Just after the replacement it rained and I noticed water pouring of the end of the barge board.  The trady came back and pulled the sarking of the last rafter, so there is no sarking over the eave boards,  this fixed about 80% of the ingress. 
In the area I removed the eave boards and during the next rain I noticed the rafters where wet. 
Looking further I see that evey batten that is touching the mud is wetting out when it rains. Then the water is running along the rafter. 
This seems to be more prevelent in one area than the others.  but this is probably a function of the amount of rain we have been getting. The bedding is mud/cement then a thin layer of the flexible pointing. 
Have looked at a few other roofs this seems to be the std finish for bedding and pointing. 
Is bedding and flexpoint the std way to finish a roof on barge boards or should there be flashin in there as well. 
Any help/would be greatly appreaciated. 
Cheers     
 had my roof replaced

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## totoblue

If you look around at period houses, they all seem to finish the gap between the barge boards with sand/cement then Flexipoint or equivalent.  Most period houses seem to have the tiles extend past the barge board by about 3cm and have a piece of cove moulding which sits under the bedding/pointing. 
You can buy flashing which is S-shaped laid on it's side.  The side with the opening pointing down goes over the barge board, and the side with the S-shape pointing up goes under the tile, forming a channel where any water ingress can run down into the gutter.  Presumably you bed and point above this. 
Something like number 62 at http://www.stratco.com.au/products/flashings.asp if your barge board ends below the tiles (possibly without the lip labelled 'd').  I have actually seen on some website (IIRC it was a tile company website), an S-shaped flashing which would handle the case if your barge board protruded further than the tiles.  You could also just form this yourself from a flashing material appropriate to your gutters (e.g. aluminium in a roll). 
If you have cove moulding, it could hide the edge of the flashing where it protrudes over the barge board. 
As an aside, my 50's house has a gable where the tiles end directly over the timber (no room for cove moulding), but at least there is a 30cm or so overhang from the wall.  I successfully rebed this with premixed sand/cement and applied Tilepoint flexible pointing over the top.  This successfully stopped the leaks, but I had problems with the Tilepoint coming away from the cement in large (1 x 5 cm) bubbles.  I applied this about a year ago (just coming into winter) and the weather was cold and there was some rain but I thought it had enough time to set before the rain - perhaps the weather was just too cold.  I recently cut away the bubbles and refilled them (this repair looks good if you cut away a much larger area than just the bubbles, so you can get a smooth finish).  When I cut out the bubbles, Behind the bubbles was a few mm of loose sand.  Seems like water got in and washed all but the sand from the back of the Tilepoint leaving the surface of the tilepoint intact - don't know where the water got in - perhaps through the partially rotted barge which I haven't completely replaced and haven't painted yet, but I would have thought it would need a lot of water and I don't understand how much that got in.  Looks like the sand/cement had sufficient time to set as it had a pretty smooth surface under the Tilepoint. 
Modern houses seem to use a system combining flashing and Colorbond bargeboard to form gables on tiled roofs (with no bedding/pointing necessary).  There is an old house near us that has this and it doesn't look appropriate to me (looks odd on a house with a bullnose verandah), although it is probably lower maintenance.  Every other old house around here has pointed gables so that's what I did on my house (also technically you need to be a plumber to do flashing).  Mind you most of the old houses get bulldozed so it there aren't a lot of renovated old houses to compare.

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## woodsie344

Yes that is the standard way to bed the ridge capping. Under 'normal' conditions a 30mm overhang at the gable end is sufficient, but if it's really windy when it is raining it would not take long for the water to find it's way into your eave. What type of tile did you use? I know Bristile make a gable cap tile specifacally to close that gap off altogether. If thats not an option then flashing would be your best bet. Don't bother with more pointing to try to fix it as you won't be sure it works until it rains again and even then, i bet you'd be running out to check whenever you hear rain. And understandably so, you've probably spent a small fortune on the roof already. Put your mind at rest, protect your investment and get a tidy flashing folded up to keep the water out for good.

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## Ramoun

Saidly it does not surprise me that this may be a std, even though it would be common knowledge that it will leak. 
Its been 12 months since it was replaced and the roofer has been back 3 times.  Once to remove the sarking above the eaveboards. 
I used to hire tradies as I believed they where experts and knew how to do a good qaulity job. But alas I now dont trust any of them and this just reaffirms my view. 
I've mocked up a few bits of wood and have started working out how to place the flashing in the easiest way.  Looks like I'll use the rolls of alu flash bend on the inside edge and let it over hang the oolc by a few millimeters.  Palce some silocone dobs every 500mm or so and nail through the dobs with strap fixing nails (large heads).   Then bend the small over lap over the edge of the oolc. 
I dont know of any way of fixing the flashing without putting a hole through it. 
I would thiink the flash needs to fixed really well as the mud will just sit on this. 
Thanks for comments
Cheers 
PS. Looks like I'll have to remove the roof ends claen them up, bed and point again.

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## Ramoun

Thanks for help.  Finally got the roofer to agree after 5 visits to see the leaks, I'm going to instal lthe flashing and cement sheet for bedding and he will bed and point.  Decided on 140mm wide flashing in color bond with appropriate bends on both sides.  Then will have 100mm cement sheet attached for the mud to go on.  Ordered the flashing and started removing mud today hopefully it will all go well. 
Cheers

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