# Forum Home Renovation The Garden Shed  Shed project

## Lovey

Good evening to one and all.
One of the projects on my (ever growing) list is to get my shed up to scratch by getting power to it, insulating and lining it, I apologise in advance if I use the incorrect terms. 
The shed is a steel portal framed 4 x 4m with one roller door and one window.  It has 2 girts which look like 'top hat battens', one at the bottom and one in the middle.  The top one is a 'C' shape and is joined to the end columns. 
I was looking at metal battens to run vertically on the walls, which will give me an anchoring point for the lining.  Pardon my possibly silly question, Ive searched this site and using the powers of google on the interweb to try and find the answer, to no avail.  How do I attach these vertical battens, especially to the horizontal top hats?  Do I use tek screws, bolts, rivets or is there some sort of clip that I use? 
I was thinking tek screw the brim portions of the top hats together where they intersect.  Am I on the right track, or will this create problems? 
The other question about the battens pertains to securing them to the top C channel.  This channel is about 15mm narrower (from the wall sheet) than the top hats in the middle and bottom.  Do I use some sort of packing to bring the C to the same width as the top hats, or is there some sort of attaching piece/part to use? 
My apologies again if this has been answered elsewhere, but Ill be blowed if I could find it.  Also, if I kept a progress diary with photos during the project, would it be of interest to anyone?
Many thanks for your time,
Steve.

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## Sir Stinkalot

Hi Steve, 
First of all what are you planning to use as the lining?
Any chance of some photos of the shed framing? 
Cheers 
Stinky

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## Lovey

G'day Stinky.
I was probably going to use ply for the lining, unless I can find something else like mdf. I'll put some pics up tomorrow.
Thanks, 
Steve.  
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

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## Sir Stinkalot

I have just finished something similar. I used chipboard cover sheets as they were cheap from a local jointer (from memory they were 16mm). For the wall lining I didn't use any battens and from what it sounds like I had something similar to what you have in terms of support (this is where the photos would be handy).  
Typically when lining with plasterboard you would have the sheets horizontal, however as this was just the shed I just stood mine up vertically and secured to the shed framing with steel screws. As the joints between the boards are vertical I attached another smaller section of chipboard behind the joint enabling me to fix through the two joining boards into the support backing to give a little more strength. I had considered using battens however in the end I just wanted to keep it simple (and save some costs - as well as not having to further reduce the floor area by bulking out the walls). So far I have been happy with the results. 
A work in progress photo shoot is always welcomed!

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## Lovey

Here's a couple of photos which may assist.   
A view from the front door showing one side and the rear.  I think I'm too late for an entry in the messy shed comp tho  :Blush7:   
This is the top hats that are running horiztonally along the middle and bottom.  
This is from underneath the top 'C' channel, which is about 13mm narrower than the top hats.  
This is one of the end columns.  Whilst its almost the same width as the top hats, but there are hex head screws protruding from it, so I think I'll need some sort of spacing before I line it.  
Whilst googling I cam across this one (thank you for letting me borrow the photo Bunnings).  If I were going down the vertical batten route, would this be what I would use to keep the battens at the same height off the 'C' channel as the top hats prior to lining?   
I'm thinking vertical battens for a couple of reasons:
- The span between the end columns is close to 4m and I'm not sure if that would strain the frame of the shed without some supports along the walls.
- I don't know how accurate I'd be screwing in the sheets to the 'brims' of the top hats, rather than trying to aim for the top of it, so I'd still need to attach the battens to the top hats somehow as a perpendicular join and attach the sheeting to them. 
Within reason, I'm happy to spend a bit of extra cash on bits and pieces if I need them to make the job easier, and a slight decrease in the floor space isn't too much of a worry either.
Thanks again for your help,
Steve.

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## Sir Stinkalot

Hi Steve, 
Thanks for the photos. It always makes it a little easier to understand. 
From what I can see your framing is a little different to mine (which isn't suprising). My horizontal framing are "c" sections facing down, which exposes quite a bit of steel facing into the shed which meant it was easier to find the section when screwing through the sheets. I can see how yours will be much harder trying to locate the "brims". 
It would be easier if you could attach battens and depending on how many you run you could either sheet vertically or horizontally. The little bracket looks like a good idea however if it were me I would try and stick with timber battens as I find them easier to screw into and generally work. First of all I would look at attaching a timber section running horizontally to the underside of your "c" channel. You can off set this slightly to pick up the 13mm difference between the top hats and the "c" section. The timber section could be attached to the "c" channel with a few self drilling wing screws (Online Hardware, Hardware for School, Hardware for Furniture , Hardware.net.au, Elraco Distributors).  
For the top hats I would do something similar. I guess that you will have the "lip" of the top hat that will prevent you from having the timber batten flush with the inside face of the top hat section. As I have a table saw I would simply cut a groove so the timber section could sit over the top of the "lip". Alternatively you could glue a small batten to the underside of the timber section to give you the height above the "lip" (hope you follow). 
With that you should now have timber sections running horizontally with your existing steel framing. It would then be an easy task of installing timber battens vertically and then sheeting - all the time screwing into timber and avoiding putting hundreds of small holes in your shed framing (like I did!). If anybody ever wanted to pull it down then the only penetrations of your existing framing would be the few spots where you screwed your timber section. 
As for insulation I used some foil faced Air-Cell type insulation that I picked up cheap from Gumtree following the end of the insulation scheme. As I put the wall insulation in well before I got around to lining I removed the metal sheeting from the outside (except the top row of screws as they were behind the gutter), and then just slid the insulation behind. I then screwed the sheets back on between the cladding and the framing. This has worked well enough and has stopped the radiant heat which was causing me the issues (Cottage Green Colorbond). If I was doing it at the same time as the lining I would install it on the inside face of the framing (in your case between the framing and the battens), to create an air gap between the cladding and the installation. 
In relation to power it was initially running along the steel framing. The original installer didn't even use conduit which is a little worrying. I now have all power and lighting running in conduit on the surface of the chipboard wall lining. This allows flexibility in adding any additional points or lights and also avoids the need of having to get back in behind the lining to make any changes. It also removes the chance of screwing into cables if I choose to attach something to the chipboard lining. With the surface mounted conduit it looks a little "industrial" however I think the benefits out way the appearance.

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## Lovey

Thanks for your detailed reply Stinky.
I was hoping to use metal battens and avoid using any wood in the frame, as I've just helped the neighbour replace a termite infested wooden fence which isn't far from the shed.
Re your suggestion as follows:  "It would be easier if you could attach battens and depending on how many you run you could either sheet vertically or horizontally. The little bracket looks like a good idea however if it were me I would try and stick with timber battens as I find them easier to screw into and generally work. First of all I would look at attaching a timber section running horizontally to the underside of your "c" channel. You can off set this slightly to pick up the 13mm difference between the top hats and the "c" section. The timber section could be attached to the "c" channel with a few self drilling wing screws (Online Hardware, Hardware for School, Hardware for Furniture , Hardware.net.au, Elraco Distributors).   For the top hats I would do something similar. I guess that you will have the "lip" of the top hat that will prevent you from having the timber batten flush with the inside face of the top hat section. As I have a table saw I would simply cut a groove so the timber section could sit over the top of the "lip". Alternatively you could glue a small batten to the underside of the timber section to give you the height above the "lip" (hope you follow)." 
After re-reading it a few times, I'm fairly sure I get where you're coming from.  The only problem I can see with advice in the second paragraph is the angle of the top hat.  It's not perpendicular to the 'brim', but its at an angle.
I think it would be difficult to get timber to sit in between the brim of the top hat and the wall sheet and get a plumb surface to screw lining to, or without putting pressure on the external wall sheets.  Sorry if that didn't make sense and I'll happily stand corrected. 
I was thinking of using some foil lined bubble insulation like aircell between the wall and battens and I might also try and put some thin batts or blanket between the foil and the lining as well.  I hear you about the heat inside the shed, mines got a black colorbond roof. Thanks again for your help,
Steve.

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## Sir Stinkalot

> The only problem I can see with advice in the second paragraph is the angle of the top hat.  It's not perpendicular to the 'brim', but its at an angle. I think it would be difficult to get timber to sit in between the brim of the top hat and the wall sheet and get a plumb surface to screw lining to, or without putting pressure on the external wall sheets.  Sorry if that didn't make sense and I'll happily stand corrected.

  Hi Steve, 
You are of course correct that the top of the top hat is not perpendicular. I was thinking of how to get around the "brim" section that I didn't even think about the sloped sides  :Doh: . If I was using timber I would just cut the bottom of the timber to match the angle of the top hat side, create a rebate to get over the brim and then it would be aligned to accept the battens. Whilst in theory it sounds easy enough, it is difficult to describe in text, and may be tricky if you didn't have a decent table saw and router. 
If you intend to stick with steel then perhaps the brackets you pictured from Bunnings would be the way to go. The only issue I have with them is that they don't seem to have any way to secure the bracket to the top hat section. It seems to rely on the teeth for grip against the top hat brim. I am sure that it would be fine but I would be interested to hear how you go if you choose this route.

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## Lovey

G'day again Stinky (I feel funny calling you that  :Wink 1: ),
I don't have a table saw available to make the angle cuts in the timber to suit the top hats.  I've discounted that bracket as its only a spacer for metal battens on a wall. I would need a vertical surface to screw it to, which would defeat the purpose of me using it in the first place.  I'm checking out some other direct fix clips which look like they might work though.
I've got a few little jobs to do before I start the lining phase, like power, vermin proofing, insulation so watch this space  :Cry: 
Thanks again for your help,
Steve.

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## Lovey

There's been some (minimal) progress, with the purchase of some metal battens to create the walls.  What I had in mind was to attach the battens in a vertical fashion across the existing horizontal girts, then attach the lining boards to the battens, as per this sketch.   
There will be four securing points per 'cross over' on the bottom and middle girts (indicated by the 'o'), with another fastening method being utilised for the top.  Would 4mm steel pop rivets be strong enough or would tek screws or bolts be a better choice?
Many thanks for looking,
Steve.

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## pinger

> There's been some (minimal) progress, with the purchase of some metal battens to create the walls.  What I had in mind was to attach the battens in a vertical fashion across the existing horizontal girts, then attach the lining boards to the battens, as per this sketch.   
> There will be four securing points per 'cross over' on the bottom and middle girts (indicated by the 'o'), with another fastening method being utilised for the top.  Would 4mm steel pop rivets be strong enough or would tek screws or bolts be a better choice?
> Many thanks for looking,
> Steve.

  Whenever we add internal battening for a shed the quickest and easiest way, as well as being strong is to use what we screw off the metal wall sheets with.  
10 x 16 x 16mm hex head tek screw (Buildex or similar) plain with no neo. Quciker and stronger than trying to rivet them individually.

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## Lovey

Thanks for the reply Pinger.
Steve.

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## Lovey

Hooray, I've made some progress on the shed project.  Late last year I got some days off and I thought I'd get stuck into it.
I thought the best way would be to attack one wall at a time, then move onto the ceiling
The previous owner sealed the bottom of the wall sheets with expanding foam, which left this,  
After cleaning the foam out from between the sheet and the concrete, I installed vermin shield. 
It was quite easy to install and it I secured it to the floor with some silicone, I also put a dob of tarzans grip on the tabs as well to keep them in place. 
Fast forward to today, eldest child at school and youngest at playgroup with mum, leaving dadda all alone  :Shock: .  I made a start on the ceiling, first sheet of insulation up.   
Then the first ceiling batten installed, just before youngest and mummy got home to disturb my peace.  
I'm getting there, slowly  :Blush7: . 
On a technical note, what is the recommended spacing between the ceiling battens for mounting plywood sheet.  I was thinking of either 450 or 600mm centres? 
Thanks for watching,
Steve

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## D.M.S

I like seeing threads about projects started before I started mine with even less progress  :Smilie: 
Makes me feel slightly less lazy  :2thumbsup: 
Not entirely my fault though up at sparrows today to a thunderstorm and 20mm in the rain gauge don't see that shed getting up anytime today ...... again

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## Lovey

G'day again all,
Whilst I have made minimal progress with the insulation, I've come across a slight problem, well I hope it's slight anyway.
There isn't enough clearance over the top of the roller door to put any lining directly above it without cutting a big chunk out of the insulation and lining sheet.  Is it possible to lower the mounting brackets for the roller door to give more clearance above the door?  If so, is it a relatively easy job to do myself?  I understand that I'll have to adjust the cladding outside to compensate if I can move the door.
Thanks all,
Steve.

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## Shedblog.com.au

> G'day again all,
> Whilst I have made minimal progress with the insulation, I've come across a slight problem, well I hope it's slight anyway.
> There isn't enough clearance over the top of the roller door to put any lining directly above it without cutting a big chunk out of the insulation and lining sheet.  Is it possible to lower the mounting brackets for the roller door to give more clearance above the door?  If so, is it a relatively easy job to do myself?  I understand that I'll have to adjust the cladding outside to compensate if I can move the door.
> Thanks all,
> Steve.

  Hi Steve,  
I'm not a roller door "expert" but this I know.
Roller doors can be shortened by lowering the brackets. The result of course is a lower opening height. The tracks/guides will likely need shortening. This is done by cutting off what's not required at the bottom of the tracks and refixing. Door work is best done with two people unless you really know what your doing. 
cheers, David

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## Lovey

Thanks David, just the answer I was hoping for.  I'll have to find a 'volunteer' to give me a hand now.
Steve.

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## Lovey

Hooray, I've made some (minimal) progress on the shed.  The wall battens have been roughed in awaiting the insulation and wiring.  
I also found a solution to attaching the batten to the top C channel.  Once I make a slight adjustment to the angle of the vertical face, it'll be solid as a rock.  
Now to figure out the wiring  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): .
Thanks for looking.

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## Lovey

Sorry to reply to my own posts  :Cry: , but I've got a question that I need help with pre-wiring.
I am wondering what type and amount of lighting I need within my shed, I was thinking of four 2 foot twin tube fluro's?  Do I need to go to 4 foot fittings, if so, single or double?
I won't have any fixed machinery, just a work bench and hand/power tools.
I've searched this forum and searched the inter web and the only 'calculation' I can find is one site that recommends 10 watts of lighting per square metre.
Thanks again for looking,
Steve.

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## OBBob

I agree,  lighting is a pain to work out. You are on the right track trying to find someone with a similar space and getting their opinion. My only comment is that it's much easier to reduce than increase,  so probably better to over estimate than be caught short. Good luck with it.

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## cyclic

> Sorry to reply to my own posts , but I've got a question that I need help with pre-wiring.
> I am wondering what type and amount of lighting I need within my shed, I was thinking of four 2 foot twin tube fluro's?  Do I need to go to 4 foot fittings, if so, single or double?
> I won't have any fixed machinery, just a work bench and hand/power tools.
> I've searched this forum and searched the inter web and the only 'calculation' I can find is one site that recommends 10 watts of lighting per square metre.
> Thanks again for looking,
> Steve.

  One 36 watt single fluro with triphos tube for the main area( go double if you want) and one 36 watt single with triphos over the bench.
Have them seperately switched.
Put in a 15 amp power point because one day you may get a compressor or welder.

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## Lovey

Thanks OBBob and Cyclic for your replies.
I was thinking of the same lighting on each side as the configuration of the shed may change in the future, but I take on board your thoughts on having brighter lights over the bench.
Thanks again,
Steve.

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## Pezz

If you go with a 4 foot fitting on each side, with 2 x 28w T5 tubes in each you will get around 200 - 300 lux at work level which will be adequate for general work. If you plan on doing fine/high detail type work then best to add a bit more light. 
You should be able to get an impact resistant type 2 x 28w T5 fitting for around $75

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## Lovey

Thanks Pezz for such a detailed reply.  Can I ask where you found that diagram with the light levels please?

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## Pezz

The diagram was created with Dialux light planning software based on the dimensions of your shed and that particular type of fitting.

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## Lovey

Just a further enquiry re lowering the garage door opening, would an acrow prop of the appropriate size be suited to this task?
Thanks for reading,
Steve.

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## PlatypusGardens

> Sorry to reply to my own posts , but I've got a question that I need help with pre-wiring.
> I am wondering what type and amount of lighting I need within my shed, I was thinking of four 2 foot twin tube fluro's?  Do I need to go to 4 foot fittings, if so, single or double?
> I won't have any fixed machinery, just a work bench and hand/power tools.
> I've searched this forum and searched the inter web and the only 'calculation' I can find is one site that recommends 10 watts of lighting per square metre.
> Thanks again for looking,
> Steve.

  Can't have too many lights (or power points for that matter) in a shed. 
Make sure you put some light above your workspace, on the wall so you're not in your own shadow.    :Smilie:

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## Lovey

I finally got around to lowering the height of the roller door today, with some help from the sage advice in this thread http://www.renovateforum.com/f216/acrow-props-115043/.
First up, I had to remove the sheeting to get access to the bracket bolts. 
Then I removed one side track and tied up the door with a tie down strap, then repeat on the other side. 
Then I made a 'roller door bar retention device and put it up. 
I made a big shoe for the bottom of the acrow prop, then I secured it with a piece of custom metal work and a scrap piece of timber, which was then screwed through the c-channel.  The picture doesn't show it well, but the acrow is bolted to it's shoe. 
Once I adjusted the prop to the correct height, I bolted the retention device to the top of the prop. 
Once everything was secured, I took the bracket off and relocated it to its new position. 
Repeat all this for the other side, cut the bottom of the tracks by the required amount and replace, drill out some new holes for the locking bar, and voila. 
I replaced the sheets to make it all purdy again. 
I reduced the height by 70mm which makes hardly any difference to the opening height, but it's given me the clearance I need over the top of the roller door to install the ceiling sheeting (when I get around to that).
All up, it took me about 6 hours to do, including 2 trips to the hardware shop to get some drill bits  :Doh: .  The only thing left to do is to adjust the door as it's rolling up unevenly.
Thanks for looking,
Steve.

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## PlatypusGardens

Good job! 
I've never installed one of those doors but I imagine there's a few tricks to it to get it right.    :Smilie:

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## Lovey

Holy dooley, it's been over a year since I've made a post about the shed, time does get away from you sometimes.  As it's so old, I couldn't post a reply in that thread, so I had to create a new one.
Anyhoo, I've run the bubble wrap insulation over all the walls and the ceiling, run all the wiring inside the shed. I even managed to score a plumber from around the corner who owns his own digger who dug the trench to run the sub mains in, woo hoo.
I'm ready to put some lining boards up inside, and I was thinking of 12mm ply.  Prior to putting the lining up, is there any need to paint the rear and edges of the boards?  I read somewhere that it helps to prevent the ply from soaking up moisture from the gap between it and the external colorbond sheets, but I've also read that you shouldn't paint the bottom edge, as that is the only means of escape for any moisture that does manage to be absorbed.  Can anybody shed (no pun intended) any light on this for me please?
Thanks for looking,
Steve.

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## OBBob

Ply might be fairly expensive over a while shed. Have you looked at OSB, or other options?

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## SilentButDeadly

Don't rule out structafloor either. Bit thicker than you want but cheap and water resistant.

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## Lovey

G'day OBBob,
I didn't even know what OSB was until I googled it  :Doh: , would standard particle board be ok to use if I painted or sealed them?  I'm limited to what I can get at either the big green shed or another smaller hardware shop.
Thanks SBD, I hadn't thought of using floorboards. The only problem with them is they come in a size that isn't really usable (at the big green shed anyway) for my shed size, there would be too much cutting to get them to the right size.
Thanks again for your guidance.

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## OBBob

Yes, I've just clad the inside of my shed in chipboard that I got for free. It provides a good solid surface and you can hang things anywhere you want. 
By the way I think Structaflor is basically chipboard.

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## SilentButDeadly

OSB can be known as 'bracing ply'.  
Structafloor is just wax covered high density chipboard. Half the reason it comes in that odd size (as opposed to 2.4 x 1.2) is the weight of the stuff but the long lengths were great for my wall height.   
That's foilboard behind the structafloor...

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## Lovey

Thanks for the replies,  they're very appreciated. A silly question, can particle board be used for ceilings as well as walls? 
Thanks again.

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## OBBob

It could but it's pretty heavy. When you say ceiling what would you be attaching it to?

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## Lovey

> It could but it's pretty heavy. When you say ceiling what would you be attaching it to?

  Steel battens which are screwed across the roof channels, post #18 has a pic of how I've got it set up.
Thanks again.

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## OBBob

Not sure what the norm is on tin sheds. I just think the sheets would be heavy to lift. The alternative could be a thinner board.

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## Lovey

I was looking at using 12mm for the walls and I'm happy to use thinner sheet for the ceilings if they're strong enough.

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## OBBob

Yeah, 12mm is probably good. The floor chipboard being discussed above is 19mm, which is what I meant may be heavy.

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## Whitey66

> OSB can be known as 'bracing ply'.  
> Structafloor is just wax covered high density chipboard. Half the reason it comes in that odd size (as opposed to 2.4 x 1.2) is the weight of the stuff but the long lengths were great for my wall height.   
> That's foilboard behind the structafloor...

  Did you compress the floor sheets together somehow before screwing them on, or just push them together by hand or rubber mallet?
I'm doing the same on my 3m high walls, using 3.6m sheets of green tongue cut down. Off cuts will be used for shelving.
I have sarking on the opposite side of the top hats (under the colourbond sheets) so i'm thinking of fitting Earthwool insulation and just screwing it straight onto the top hats.
The only thing i'm worried about is how much this stuff grows or shrinks in different temperatures and humidity.
I also want to paint it with water-based paint to make a mega tool shadow board, but not sure how that will go with a waxy surface. Is the wax only applied to the edges (the red stuff you can see) or is there a clear wax on the face of the board as well??
It says in the product information that it is impregnated, so i'll probably need an oil based primer first coat.
Has anyone here ever tried painting structafloor with water-based  paint with no oil based primer?

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## SilentButDeadly

They were smacked together with a mallet.  
Your insulation idea will work fine. 
So far, no worries with thermal expansion. If anything, the shed grows and shrinks more than the lining. So oversized fixing holes are essential. 
Painting the stuff is a straight forward process, little different to that of drywall. I'd be happy enough to use an all in one sealer/primer/undercoat, water based unless the tin told me not to. I have seen the stuff simply hit with polyurethane as a flooring finish...just tint it black in that case!

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## Whitey66

> They were smacked together with a mallet.  
> Your insulation idea will work fine. 
> So far, no worries with thermal expansion. If anything, the shed grows and shrinks more than the lining. So oversized fixing holes are essential. 
> Painting the stuff is a straight forward process, little different to that of drywall. I'd be happy enough to use an all in one sealer/primer/undercoat, water based unless the tin told me not to. I have seen the stuff simply hit with polyurethane as a flooring finish...just tint it black in that case!

  Yeah i've heard of using polyurethane on these boards, but is it oil or water based polyurethane they use??
As I see it the impregnated wax may repel the water based product, but may mix well with the oil based.

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## Lovey

G'day all,
No movement yet due to some eye surgery, with the surgeon banning me from doing any dusty or dirty work, so the shed is a no go zone at the moment  :Annoyed: .
I was having some more thoughts on the internal lining for the shed.  As I plan to use a welder inside the shed, hopefully on a regular basis, should I be looking at something else to line it with in relation to fire resistance?
Thanks for looking.

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## Lovey

Wow, 
Sorry, I've been a bit lax with the photos and actually doing anything but 3 years, 1 month and 2 weeks later, I've finally got one wall finished  :Blush7: .
Here's a pic of the wall battened and insulated ready to go. 
Sorry it's not the best pic, it was getting pretty tight in there.  
And the semi finished product.  Once I've got all the walls and ceiling done, I'll put some gap filler around and put a coat of paint on.
Now that this wall is finished, I can move everything to that side and have a bit more room for the rest of the construction.
Thanks for looking.

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## OBBob

Better late than never!

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## Lovey

And now the second wall is finished, barring a small bit of window trim work. 
Thanks for looking.

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## OBBob

The inevitable offcuts piles.   :Biggrin:

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## Lovey

That's not even a decent shot of the offcut pile  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): .  I'm getting some good use out of the offcuts though, both as backing boards behind the joins and for my young bloke to practice his nail hammering skills on  :brava:

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## Lovey

I have a back wall, geez I felt like busting out a rendition of the 'pen pineapple apple pen' song then  :Doh:  
A (fair) bit of gap filler required but it should look ok when I've got a coat of paint over it.
Thanks for looking.

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## Lovey

There's been a bit more progress on the shed, finally  :Blush7: .
I've installed all of the wall and ceiling sheets, barring one front panel next to the door and the wiring is ready for connection. 
I just need a quick tidy up of the joins and a sanding before painting, then I'm ready to move in  :Wink 1: 
Thanks for looking.
Steve

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## OBBob

Nice

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## Lovey

I've finished the building part  :2thumbsup:  now to move in and arrange the furniture  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): .
All the painting and electrical fittings are done, just trying to work out the final positions for the work bench and the shelves.  I'm thinking that I'll need another smaller shed to put the garden tools and scaffolding into, stay tuned for that one  :Doh: .
Here's some pics of the finished product. 
Thanks for looking.

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## SlowMick

Looks awesome with a coat of paint sir. nicely done. enjoy  :2thumbsup:

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## Spottiswoode

Not sure it's a shed anymore, looks a bit fancy. Workshop perhaps?

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## OBBob

Nice. Did you put LED tubes in those light fittings? Worthwhile if you haven't.

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## Lovey

Thanks for the positive feedback all, it's very appreciated. 
I hope it doesn't look 'too fancy' Spottiswoode, otherwise my wife might think it's a good spot for to move in to  :Cry: .
I didn't even take notice of the tubes when I was installing them OBBob  :Blush7: .
I made a slight modification to the work bench as well today.  It was originally 2400 L x 1000 H, so I cut it down to 1800 L by 950 H.  It's going to free up a bit of storage space around the walls and I still have heaps of bench space available.
Thanks for looking.

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