# Forum Home Renovation The Garden Shed  My Shed\Office project

## woodyshed

This my shed/offfice project I have designed from scratch with inspiration from many photos/designs/environmental issues seen on the internet, its a work in progress I hope we will enjoy and learn from. Enjoy..feedback is welcomed  
BEFORE SHOT

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## woodyshed

I have all the materials...here we go! 
Start with the stumps to support the Shed...My Shed is less then 10m square so i need no permits.  I have purposely  put on stumps to ensure it is not a 'permanent structure'

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## woodyshed

Here i lay the bearers as a guide to ensure my design fits and looks

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## bugsy

I dont know what area you live in but, have you thought about termite protection?

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## Bloss

Looks like treated pine to me . . .

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## woodyshed

It is treated pine..so i assume its safe from termites?  Is this correct?

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## woodyshed

I was going to have decking at the front/side but now i am only going to have decking at the front.  This eliminates a bearing...so i had remove a bearing and cut the over hangs. 
My next step is to insulate the floor using silver batts and lay the yellow tongue.

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## Bloss

> It is treated pine..so i assume its safe from termites?  Is this correct?

  Yep - although there has been some robust discussion on this forum suggesting the contrary. I prefer evidence over anecdote though - and it says yes.  :2thumbsup:  
But caveat though - on or in ground should be H4 not H3 although mainly for rot resistance not termites, but if the termites don't getcha and the rot does you are in the same place!  :Frown:  
But sitting on the bricks etc as your pics show H3 is fine. 
BTW - novel use of speed bracing  .  .  . not sure what forces are being contemplated .  .  .

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## woodyshed

Thanks Bloss..what do you mean by Speed bracing?   I am using this project as a stepping stone to a house extension so it might be over-engineered but that never hurt anyone  :Smilie:

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## Vernonv

> ..what do you mean by Speed bracing?

  The perforated metal strapping running diagonally under the joists.

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## lbg

in the first photo - are your "stumps" just sitting on the ground, or on a footing of some kind? I can't see any, so just wondering what is anchoring it all down.

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## woodyshed

The footing is layed bricks which was the floor for the previous shed which is pretty stable.  So stmps are sitting on a brick foundation.

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## Vernonv

Are the posts secured to the slab/bricks? I can't really tell. 
The posts need to be secured to the slab/bricks (assuming the slab/bricks are suitable for such a purpose) or the posts need to be sunk into suitable concrete footings.

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## woodyshed

why do i need to secure them?  Its free standing, on feet like alot of other sheds you can buy.  I need no permit so should be ok

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## murray44

The speed bracing makes sense given that the whole thing is 'floating' on the ground. 
Probably not the 'normal' way to do it but given it's only a shed will probably be fine. The ground looks pretty flat, hopefully it won't 'walk' across the ground as you bang away inside. 
You can always moor it to a tree.  :Biggrin:

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## lbg

I don't think I've ever seen a shed that doesn't have its structure anchored to the ground in some way... but I'm not expert. I would have thought that without this it would be very easy for your stumps to move around and "twist" the structure - which I imagine isn't cool. 
Whilst you don't need a permit, you'll be spending alot of cash so is probably worth complying with building regs for longevity.

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## woodyshed

advice taken...have a look at Cubbies, Cubby, Cubby House, Shed, Sheds, Thatch, Thatches, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide for many dwellings without anchors.   I am ensuring the structure will not twist etc by using  bracing.   Lets see what happens...you could be right..but i can always anchor later..if starts to crawl  :Smilie:

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## Vernonv

If it was me, I would anchor it.  
I don't know about the "legalities" of it, but for a little extra cost and effort you end up with a stronger and safer result.

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## Vernonv

I just noticed in a previous post you mentioned that you didn't need a permit for it. Why is that? Is it under 10m2?

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## woodyshed

3.6mx2.7m Its less then 10ms so no permit required for Banyule Council

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## woodyshed

Adding underfloor insulation added and then the yellow tongue

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## Master Splinter

Keep going...I've got to build one like this shortly and I'm always looking for ideas to steal!

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## woodyshed

Got some innovative construction to come...enjoy

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## Bloss

> Got some innovative construction to come...enjoy

  I thought that white fluffy insulation in the first pic was pretty innovative - how many do you need per m2? And how do you keep them in place while you lay the foil and yellow tongue? Is noise an issue after placement? (I assume for just a while?)  :Biggrin:   :Wink:

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## woodyshed

lol....4 per s.metre...but the sound can get annoying...might just stick with insulation!

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## woodyshed

Walls done...well most of it..., haven't confirmed window sizes yet...found a few second hand.  Some really good/cheap  window material you can get second hand...what ever i choose it will be double glazing! Door.Windows, Cupboards to come...and some other stuff

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## ibuildbenches

Dont forget your internal corner stud to fix the plasterboard to, if you are in fact plastering it.

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## woodyshed

Thanks AMtt..i did remember corner studs....what is the standard way to joing the side frames...bolts, screws or nails?  I plan to use large screws...maybe bolts if appropriate?

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## Bedford

> .what is the standard way to joing the side frames..

  Just nail them top, bottom and at the noggin when you put these in, and don't forget the bracing. :Smilie:

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## woodyshed

I am thinking on making my shed with flat roof and a small veradah just like the shed in this picturte http://www.ecospacestudios.com/media...3._DSC.001.JPG 
Can anyone suggest how i would frame this?   Are their any advantages to a picthed roof...i like the flat roof look for my shed.  
thanks in advance

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## Master Splinter

Do you have to mow the roof of that shed in the picture??  
Flat roof wise, I've been looking at http://www.solarspan.com.au/solarspa.../overview.html (no other support needed) but I have the feeling that it will be priced in the 'ho ho ho, you must be kidding me' bracket and I'll end up using plywood box beams under colourbond because I can knock 'em together myself.

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## woodyshed

Question for anyone who can answer..is it normal for the walls to wobble..at which point should the structure not wobble?  I assume when the bracing is complete?

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## Master Splinter

Yup, when the bracing is done.  Nails/screws won't give you a rigid frame just by themselves.  (and a couple of cheap clamps at the bottom aren't really the same as a heap of nails) 
Is this where I say it's easier to put the bracing on before you put the walls up?? If it's strap bracing, that is.

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## woodyshed

thanks Splinter..i thought so but a professional opinion does help!

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## Bloss

What MasterSplinter said - squares & rectangles are unstable while triangles are inherently stable. So bracing can be formed by adding diagonally bracing of metal or timber - or using a stiffening form like ply bracing (where the 'triangulation' occurs when you use the correctly placed and number of fixings (screws/ nails). 
Triangulation and therefore stability also occurs and makes a structure stable when other sheeting is added - for example in light structured and portal steel framed sheds the siding and roofing sheets are integral to getting a stable structure - with the triangulation being created when the screws are all in place. 
Tie-down straps can be a useful temporary bracing - fixed diagonally from bottom to top plate using suitable screws & washers (long enough and large enough - those straps can imprat some force - allows adjustment for squaring and can be done on the inside then can be removed once cladding or permanent straps/ timber bracing is in place to provide the permanent brace. Cheap as chips too.

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## Vin

Woodyshed, That looks good, looking forward to seeing  the final job, one gets great pleasure doing things from scratch, you should be proud.

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## woodyshed

Things i have learnt... 
Measure twice..cut once 
Make sure your design is exactly what you want..include each screw(maybe)...then you will have less remodeling if you stuff up! 
Temporary bracing very important! 
...in these images...you can see i have aded headers for the cupboards and start to structure the entrance whcih will have a standard door but will also include a hinged wall to allow for the complete opening of the front..maybe for a party or wahtever.

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## woodyshed

Putting the roof(flat roof) on this weekend and wondering how you construct a cantilever verandah?  Any suggestion or reference?

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## Master Splinter

Span tables should have the allowable cantilever for whatever size timber you are using.

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## woodyshed

Have added the roof beams...and just laid the corrugated iron  top to protect the structure.  This will also  allow me to conitnue working on it when during any  weather condition.  The roof will be a concealed flat roof.

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## Bloss

Am I mistaken or is there no slope on that roof? A 'flat' roof still has to have some slope or you will have water problems. That cantilever is considerable so the attachment back at the frame should be solid and secure. Wouldn't be walking out to the end!

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## woodyshed

The roof will be slanted...i have just temporarly laid the corry so i can protect the structure from the rain..thanks for the cantilever recommendation  :Smilie:

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## woodyshed

Anyone suggest how i can drill in mini corry sheet metal(mini version of Corrugated Iron sheeting) without scratching the  whole area.  Should i buy a center punch?

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## The Bleeder

If you have a small piece then drill a hole in it, then use that as a template and the drill won't wander.

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## woodyshed

Anyne guide me on how i implement the roof battens for the roof plaster?

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## Moondog55

I thought it was just glued and nailed to the rafters??

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## ringtail

G'day woodyshed. Couples of questions. Are there height restrictions from the council ? as most give a square mt. limit and height limits for non assessable structures. Secondly, was your yellow tongue termite treated ? And thridly a quick tip regarding bracing - that GI strap angle on the floor is way to flat. You want to get it to cross the joists between 30 and 60 degrees with 45 been the best angle. This would mean doing two sections of X bracing from the outside joist to the centre, then from the other outside joist to the centre ( just for future reference) - same for walls if you are using strapping. So the pattern on the floor should look like this   XX

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## woodyshed

It been awhile since my last update...will be uploading many photos this week.These phtos are form Nov2010

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