# Forum Home Renovation Kitchens  Glass splashback, how does it work?

## N0mad

I'm thinking about getting glass splashbacks for the new kitchen but there is a window in the middle of the wall that it would cover. 
1. Can you get it made as one pane (height would go from about 60cm to 25 cm (at window) then back to 60cm)? This may be impractical if wall is not perfectly straight, consider potential for cracking at corners around the window?
2. If it is made from multiple panes, do you just join them using clear silicone?
3. Do you paint the wall behind, paint the glass or is the glass "tinted" by the supplier?
4. How is it fastened?   :Confused:

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## journeyman Mick

1. Not generally, the inside corners will be a stress point. But talk to your supplier and see what they can do.
2. Yes
3. The glass is supplied (and generally fitted) painted on the back surface with a special paint.
4. Usually glued to the wall 
I wouldn't recommend fitting it yourself. While it's not overly difficult it's a bugger trying to store and handle the stuff without the proper equipment. The glass will be tempered, making it very strong but if you knock the corners there's a good chance the glass will explode into a few thousand little pieces. :Eek:  
Mick

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## rod1949

We have one. For half a square metre it cost $320.00. Now that you have picked yourself up off the floor :Biggrin: . 
The supplier applies your required paint colour to one side which will be the backside when installed. 
They are installed using silicon and therefore I wouldn't paint the wall it is to go on as your paint job could be a weak link in the failure of the silicon to adhere. 
As for the rest of your questions talk to a supplier.

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## N0mad

Thanks guys, that cleared up all my questions  :2thumbsup: 
I'll stick with hiring someone to deliver the glass and mount it for me. 
Cheers

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## Sybarite

You will also get charged extra for any GPO's or other holes that have to be made in the glass - the reason for this is that the holes have to be cut into the glass before it is annealed, which means knowing exactly where they are going to be before hand. 
Holes can not be cut on site - so don't freak out at the cost you will be quoted for putting in any GPO's, it is totally normal - and if you can, maybe plan for as few (or none) if possible. 
Cheers, 
Earl

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## skot

NOmad, 
I used glass instread of tiles on my reno a couple of years back...very pricey but worth it. The Glas supplier organised the cutting, toughening & coating and installation. Leave it to them. 
A couple of pics below of the before & after. We bought the fridge at the time of the reno and got one that was able to fit matching glass to the doors.

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## N0mad

Currently the walls are covered with 5mm Masonite, nailed (not glued) to vertical T&G boards. Do you think that is enough to attach the glass to or should I rip some masonite off and mount tile underlay or similar first?

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## rod1949

At the very least I would be removing the masonite as its a very living product.  Then install a Hardiflex sheeting with the backside facing out as it provides better bonding.  As you are aware glass is a very ridged material and won't bend so your surface needs to be quite flat.

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## N0mad

Rod, that confirms my suspicions. If I decide to go for the glass, I will remove the masonite and cover the splashback area with hardiflex or similar (probably a good idea if applying ceramic tiles as well). I assume you meant that glass is very rigid.

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## Metung

Okay skot, I'll ask the obvious. What's the story with the drawers in the corner?

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## arms

> Okay skot, I'll ask the obvious. What's the story with the drawers in the corner?

  I was thinking more along the lines of "why didnt you put the handles in the centre of the drawers" :Doh:

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## chipps

> Okay skot, I'll ask the obvious. What's the story with the drawers in the corner?

   

> I was thinking more along the lines of "why didnt you put the handles in the centre of the drawers"

  Been stumped by that also....  :Sneaktongue:  
Maybe they rotate like lazy susan's ??  :Biggrin thumb:

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## Sybarite

From the first shot with what looks like an extra gable in the corner unit I was thinking Blum "space" corner drawer set made at a custom size...but I didn't think that they could be made at less than 1050 x 1050...and that gable would need prior fixing...now we need an answer! 
Cheers, 
Earl

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## N0mad

I have seen some corner mounted kitchen drawers before and they came out at a 45 degree angle. Maybe that is how they work??? Or is it actually a corner cupboard with a door that makes it look like drawers (camouflage)  :Biggrin:

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## bcaso

Didn't know you could curve the glass splashback as in Skot's pic :2thumbsup: ....Interesting

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## azza_1980

> From the first shot with what looks like an extra gable in the corner unit I was thinking Blum "space" corner drawer set made at a custom size...but I didn't think that they could be made at less than 1050 x 1050...and that gable would need prior fixing...now we need an answer! 
> Cheers, 
> Earl

  We regulary get customers asking about the corner draws, as a rule we generally stick to 858 x 858 internal size for  the corner cupboard . Do tend to try to steer the customers away from that idea though firstly due to the cost of the blum motion hardware required and the lost internal space. Not only that their just a general pain in the backside.

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## skot

Sorry for taking so long to get around to answering...been busy. 
Yes, I built it as a 45° corner drawers to utilise the corner space....by making all drawers ...no more kneeling down on the floor searching for lost items in back of cupboard. 
I custom the kitchen myself and did not use Blum hardware 
See pic below and you see that the handle IS in fact in the centre of the drawer

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## skot

Here is another pic to clarify the corner

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## Sybarite

That's a great effort - definitely a cost saver vs. the Blum Space corner unit, and it looks like you have customised the corner sizes nicely. 
Do you find you have any subconscious problems trying to pull the drawer out at a perpendicular to the handle or do you get used to the 45 degree thing pretty quickly? 
The handle location on that type of design is one of the things that bugs me most about those corner drawers - I always suspect that people are going to try to pull the drawer open at 45 degrees to it's actual opening direction. 
Azza - are you saying that you do Blum Space corner drawer sets in an 890mm x 890mm corner unit? 
I was given the strict impression that the system was only suited to 1050 x 1050 units and that's what I have been specifying them at...bloody reps...
In any case I agree with you about the painfulness and cost of the "proprietary" system. 
But again, great job Skot. 
Cheers, 
Earl

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## skot

The pulling of the drawer feels natural, like all drawers..if your facing it, you pull towards yourself. I used Hafele full extention sliders which run fairly smoothly. As with most "non standard" things I do the critical part was cutting and fitting the 2 side panels to hold the drawer slides. Have to be very careful to be exactly the same distance apart and at 45°. Once there were in position it was just a matter of making the drawers to fit. 
Of course you can not have the corner drawer and the adjoining drawer open at the same time but that's not necessary really. 
SWMBO absolutely loves her new kitchen and thats the most important thing. I discussed with her what she wanted and built accordingly. The counter top you see on the right is higher than "standard" so as to save back pain for the wife as she does have to bend over to prepare food. She found the usual height too low but she wanted the induction cooktop set at the lower height so she can easily see into the pots. 
I rarely do the "NORM". We were always critical of some of the pantries in a lot of kitchens which were 600x600 cupboards and heard friends curse theirs as they couldn't find anything when they need it so I measured most of the food items in the kitchen and built a walk in pantry with double door width opening and built the shelves approx 275mm high and only 150 mm deep with 1 row of taller shelves to take tall bottles and the end returns are wider for cereal boxes and the like but lots of shelves. 
See pic below  
Nomad, sorry for thread hijack

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## N0mad

Skot, as long as you contribute something useful (like you did), you are welcome to hijack any thread I start at any time you like!  :Biggrin:

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## N0mad

Skot, seeing the pictures of your kitchen proved to be very useful for me! I picked up on the idea of letting the benchtops overlap, one on top of the other. It is working out really well and has allowed me to get part of the benchtop up to a height of 938mm. The other section sits at 900 (holds the cooktops and the sink). Finally I will have a piece of benchtop where I can stand straight while working in the kitchen! I'm 188cm tall so regular benchtop height is often awkward and hard on the back for me. Will post pictures in "go to whoa"  when finished.

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## skot

Glad it could help..that's what the forums are for.

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## PrecisionCabs

Great looking Kitchen Skot. I myself like other guys tend to stay away from the corner drawers. The cost for the Blum once are bad enough let alone the hassle of fitting them. I think you have done a good job and i think they would be heaps cheaper. well done!!!

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## N0mad

I used the IKEA carousel in the corner cabinet in our kitchen. Makes use of most of that dead space without blowing the budget or complicating things.

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## pawnhead

> We have one. For half a square metre it cost $320.00..

  I got mine for a third of that price, including polished edges, but not including paint which would have almost doubled the price, but still quite a bit cheaper. This was just last year. I painted it myself with a couple of $1.99 spray cans.  :Biggrin:  Six months down the track, and it still looks great. 
As for those corner drawers, I honestly can't see any point in the extra work and expense. Sure you make use of the corner, but you get a weird shaped drawer with all sorts of angles going on inside, and you don't save any space anyway. You simply transfer the wasted triangles to either side of the drawers.

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## alty

> NOmad, 
> I used glass instread of tiles on my reno a couple of years back...very pricey but worth it. The Glas supplier organised the cutting, toughening & coating and installation. Leave it to them. 
> A couple of pics below of the before & after. We bought the fridge at the time of the reno and got one that was able to fit matching glass to the doors.

  Hi, 
what did you use on the frigde and are they drawers in the corner???? 
The glass looks great!!

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## mofuxor

> They are installed using silicon and therefore I wouldn't paint the wall it is to go on as your paint job could be a weak link in the failure of the silicon to adhere. 
> As for the rest of your questions talk to a supplier.

  I am just about to have a kitchen installed, and am also having glass splashback. I have masonite walls and I have just given them a coat of primer/prepcoat so I have got a bit worried about some of the comments in this thread about masonite walls/painting etc !
I have just called a supplier (Brisbane Glass FYI) and they did not seem at all phased about what they stick it on to. He said they use a mastic to fix the glass, so as long as the wall is reasonably flat it will be fine.

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## Kitiara

I had glass splashbacks installed about 3 years ago. (from memory Brisbane Glass did it then) One of the walls was a bit of a mess as previously had a tile splashback installed and there was the remains of tile grout and some holes in the walls where the old tiles were and paint above the old splashback area (the glass one was higher) 
When the splashback was to be installed they had mismeasured the largest piece and there was a delay while they had a new piece made (at their cost - it was their error) All up cost me around $1600. 
I have had no issues with the splashbacks, and the glass is so much easier to clean than tiles

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## skot

alty,
They are drawers in the corner and the Glass on the fridge is the same toughened glass as the splashback but the fridge is a model which allows the addition of personalised fronts to the doors.

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