# Forum Home Renovation Bathrooms  Bathroom tiling / waterproofing failure

## an3_bolt

Would like to share an example of what not to do and also ask for some advice on methods to fix. 
When we bought our "old" house it had a "brand new" bathroom done for the open days whilst it was on the market. Even the real estate agent was marketing the property with "brand new bathroom". Looked good. :Smilie:  
Move on 3 years. 
First I notice some moisture at entrance to bathroom. Think it is the kids just splashing some water around. :Confused: 
Second notice what i felt was a tile squish under my feet. Thinking I am just working too hard on the back of the house.... :No: 
Third - notice some more tiles "squishing" and also some grout failure and lots of water at entrance to bathroom. :Shock:  
Problem not neurotic - but water obviously moving under tiles and exiting bathroom at entrance. Multiple sites of grout failure. Possibly up to 1/2 floor tiles exhibit delamination when tap tested.
In shower recess - I can even push down on some of the tiles and I get water to bead up out of the grout!! 
Investigate further - get grout rake and chop at some of the failed grout.........some F&*%*&G idiot left tile spacers in the tiles and just grouted over!!!! :Mad:  :Shock:  
At least we have a second bathroom to use in the meantime.......one that will last as I built it - and built it properly!!! 
What to do? 
Option 1: rake out all the grout - lift drummy tiles, re-glue and re-grout? 
Option 2: break out the rotary hammer drill with a spade bit and lift all the tiles, grind the bathroom back to cement, re waterproof and lay new tiles and grout?
Option 3: go back through real estate sales agent and track down the offending tradie who obviously can not do a proper job....(going to be a difficult one..and least preferable one as the previous owners were selling as part of a divorce fire sale / almost bankrupt and very bitter about it all). 
Anyway - pictures describe more than I can put in words.......

----------


## Oldsaltoz

I would do nothing till you find out exactly where the water is coming from. Tiles will 'pop' if the glue gets very wet, it can take 6 months after flooding as many are about to find out after the resent floods, also leaving the spacers can tiles to lift with no room for expansion. 
The prime suspect would be the shower, try the following before you rip anything up.  
Drag the garden hose through the window and block the waste in the shower with some cling wrap.  
Start filling the recess and all the time looking for any signs of moisture outside the shower.  
If no sign, slowly fill the shower so the water level is just above the screen or at least level with the highest tile/s.  
Again look around for signs of a leak, shower screens are often the culprit at this stage.  
No leak? remove the hose and cling wrap, remove the shower to wall fitting and put a plug over the threaded section of the tail showing through the tiles, turn on the hot and cold taps and after a good 15 minutes look signs of new moisture.  
Take you time doing the above test, a very small leak in well waterproofed will build up over time, If you decide to rip the tiles up, just remove the ones around the shower first, let it dry and repeat the test.  
Good luck. :Smilie:

----------


## an3_bolt

The grout has already failed in the shower and has lifted tiles. 
I have a gut feeling with the water travel (has to be from shower) that it most probably has a waterproof membrane applied to the complete floor and no water stop  at the shower......therefore has got under the tiles and travelled at will. Most probably the waterproofing membrane is intact - otherwise it would not be holding the water so well!! 
If I fill the shower area - it is just going to travel.  
So I guess that brings it back to some elbow grease hacking out any grout, lifting out the popped tiles and letting dry, then re-installing (and possibly even removing the shower screen to place a water stop around it whilst the tiles are out ..... if it does not have one). 
Probably comes back to 2 faults: premature failure of grout due to leaving chunky tile spacers in place, and possibly no water stop under the shower frame down to water proofing membrane.  
Unless there are any other ideas?

----------


## Oldsaltoz

Ok, it now sounds like you should remove the line of tiles around the shower and test, this will show if it's the screen (most likely) or the lack of a working water stop, if fitted. 
Good luck. :Smilie:

----------


## an3_bolt

Just updating with a couple more pictures: Attachment 84270Attachment 84271Attachment 84272Attachment 84273 
Lifted a tile - lots of water underneath.
Waterproofing membrane appears to have lifted in areas and "bubbled".
Tile adhesive expanded and spongy with the stagnant water.
No puddle flange or any system of drainage around the waste grate.
No water stop under shower frame (although waterproofing appears to be to complete floor area).
No proper sealing of water stop at entrance to bathroom.
Tile spacers not removed.
No proper gradient of tiles towards waste in shower area. 
All around a completely unprofessional and piss poor job.......a ticking time bomb just waiting to fail - quite frankly I am not an expert but i am surprised that it lasted this long. 
How hard is it to read AS3740 and understand it?
How hard is it to read the Master Builders Australia Guide to Waterproofing? 
I am so angry with what I have uncovered. I must surmise I must be one of the dying bread of "do it once - do it properly"........ 
Guess it means I will removing the shower screen, vanity and toilet. Ripping up the floor tiles and grinding back the floor. Waterproofing and then laying new tiles (with a puddle flange!! and water stops!!). :Mad:  
Unless there are any other suggestions?

----------


## Oldsaltoz

With the whole being sealed I assume this bathroom disaster is upstairs or al least over a timber floor with tile underlay sheeting over the timber floor. 
As a professional waterproofer myself I'm sorry to say yours is not an unusual case, I see about 2 a month like this, done by some well meaning soul who not a clue of the basic needs. 
I would be removing the sheeting under the glue to check what damage has done to the timber and give a chance to dry out at least, this might well save a lot of time, and reduce the chance of a another more serious failure later. 
It sounds like you have done some research into the subject and take pride in your work and standards, so you have very good chance of at least making some savings in the cost of repairs. 
Let's hope this will drive home the value of using a professional waterproofer who issues a certificate and warranty for all work. This means ANY costs to effect the repairs including replacement of and relaying tiles is covered by the warranty. :Eek:  
If come any 'curly' problems, feel free to post or PM, I will happy to advise you on any waterproofing problems, products or procedures that meet the current waterproofing standards Australia wide. 
Good luck. :Smilie:

----------


## an3_bolt

Thanks for the kind words. I am sure your regular advice is appreciated to be all. 
The sub-base is cement over the old slag fill from the old days (prior to the days of compressed cement sheeting approved for use in wet areas....). No upstairs - just a single level 1920's do........with a new extension out the back. 
Preliminary thought on tackling a temporary repair (we were going to destruct the bathroom in 2-3 years anyway as we are not exactly partial to the previous owners style). Funds, nor my time do not currently permit moving the destruction forward.... 
In any case:
1. remove shower screen.
2. Lift tiles from shower area.
3. Remove waste and all goo / waterproofing from floor and allow to dry
4. Provide a grade to waste.
5. Install aluminium waterstop to shower area
6. Install a proper puddle flange and waste grate system
7. Waterproof shower floor
8. Give it a ponding test.
8. Re-install tiles and grout. 
However - realistically it is going to be a bit of "bodge" to buy 2-3 years - as I do not know how to run a proper bond breaker and re-inforcing fabric around the floor to wall junction without removing the wall tiles - let alone join the wall membrane. Of course - the previous owners did not think of leaving any spare tiles around.... 
Got some Crommelin Shower Waterproofing membrane (same stuff as "wetite" - class3 membrane) left over so might give that a go. 
Would appreciate any tips or suggestions from your experience . 
Cheers

----------


## Oldsaltoz

> Thanks for the kind words. I am sure your regular advice is appreciated to be all. 
> The sub-base is cement over the old slag fill from the old days (prior to the days of compressed cement sheeting approved for use in wet areas....). No upstairs - just a single level 1920's do........with a new extension out the back. 
> Preliminary thought on tackling a temporary repair.  
> In any case:
> 1. remove shower screen.
> 2. Lift tiles from shower area.
> 3. Remove waste and all goo / waterproofing from floor and allow to dry
> 4. Provide a grade to waste.
> 5. Install aluminium waterstop to shower area
> ...

  I hope this helps. 
Good luck. :Smilie:

----------


## an3_bolt

No bad news there - all good news. Thanks again. 
Looks like lifting some wall tiles - going to be stuffed if I break any!!! I just want to so rip this bathroom apart and fix it all properly!! 
Perhaps give it a week to sit and think a little and calm down a bit. 
Once again - thanks.

----------


## an3_bolt

I am normally a very calm and considerate person - when at work with the responsibility of hundreds of people moving at close to the speed of sound. But you can just image what sort of conversation I would have with the person who did this bathroom....... :Shock:  :Minigun:  :Smack:  :Smack:  :Boxing5:  
Going to bite the bullet - complete redo as it is so stuffed - lifting waterproofing membrane and water under it and the list goes on and on etc 
Actually the side pane glass "blew up" when I was least expecting it - was coming out very nicely and very easily and "kapow..." :Rantoff:

----------


## Oldsaltoz

Great news, I'm glad to hear you are going to take the plunge and do a 'proper job'. 
However, I would only make a start 'after' I have established the cause/location of the original leak, I would be thinking "I wonder if the leak is the plumbing? or from other area I have not checked".  
It would be a crying shame to have it all finished and looking really nice, then finding you still have a leak.  
Good luck. :Smilie:

----------


## an3_bolt

Thanks again Oldsalt - one step ahead of you there !!!! One of the last place I have to check now is the mixer tap and associated plumbing in the shower when I pull the tiles off the wall. 
The only other area I have not been able to eliminate (until I put a hole in the floor) is any rising damp from the old style solid fill sub-base to the floor - have you ever seen any rising damp hydraulic action forcing upwards (as I have found water under the membrane - and I am not certain if it has penetrated from above with all the water due to failed grout or moved upwards from infill)?
In any case i will be able to determine that one shortly.
Also - in your experience - would it be of any benefit to excavate all the infill when I destruct and create a new suspended floor (would have a cavity of some 1-1.5 metres)? 
I very much appreciate the input Oldsalt.....your obviously extensive previous experience with this is very valuable. 
The biggest shame with this "new project" is the fact someone went to the trouble of stripping out the bathroom and renewing it - and it would have taken bugger all cost in materials and just a little care in what they were doing to have prevented this in the first place. Essentially the "thousands" the previous owners spent is thrown away after a couple of years.....what a waste!

----------


## Oldsaltoz

> the last place I have to check now is the mixer tap and associated plumbing in the shower when I pull the tiles off the wall.   With the sheet removed and the shower spigot plugged, this can still take 15 minutes to show, so have a good strong light available.  
> The only other area I have not been able to eliminate (until I put a hole in the floor) is any rising damp from the old style solid fill sub-base to the floor - have you ever seen any rising damp hydraulic action forcing upwards (as I have found water under the membrane - and I am not certain if it has penetrated from above with all the water due to failed grout or moved upwards from infill)?  I am treating 2 homes as I type this, both have developed leaks in the bedrooms, one a 1960's home, the other a late 80's build. 
> With all the recent rains and rise in water tables this should be no suprise. The treatment is very straight forward though and pretty painless, but can 3 or 4 weeks to complete. 
> Look up Krystol or C-1, an intersting approach as it promotes the growth of crystals in the tiny network of cracks in the slab and even failed joints between slab and block work or bricks. 
> If you go this route, let me know there a few tips that will help if you have any gaps.     In any case i will be able to determine that one shortly.
> Also - in your experience - would it be of any benefit to excavate all the infill when I destruct and create a new suspended floor (would have a cavity of some 1-1.5 metres)?  This sounds like a very drastic and expensive way to fix a problem, suspended floor also have moisture and it's not a method I would advise anyone to use without a good look at the alternatives, some testing, and intense design specifications mainly about the materials to be used and ventilation.  
> I very much appreciate the input Oldsaltoz.....your obviously extensive previous experience with this is very valuable. 
> The biggest shame with this "new project" is the fact someone went to the trouble of stripping out the bathroom and renewing it - and it would have taken bugger all cost in materials and just a little care in what they were doing to have prevented this in the first place. Essentially the "thousands" the previous owners spent is thrown away after a couple of years.....what a waste!

  I understand your frustration and totally agree, it's incredible that anyone would spend so much time effort and money then botch the whole thing by not waterproofing at least to the standard and with materials that meet the standards. 
Many seem to think that Standards are a load of old rubbish, fact is they only state the MINIMUM requirements, or a stating point if you like. 
You are on the right track now, Good luck. :Smilie:

----------


## an3_bolt

Thank you for sharing your knowledge, experience and time. I greatly appreciate it. 
Cheers

----------


## Startingout

I am new to this forum - I have spent hours reading through all of the advice many of you post (which has been very helpful by the way!), but now I need to ask a question of my own.  We are renovating our first house and have started in the bathroom.  We pulled off the wall tiles in the shower to discover the wall sheeting underneath was wet.  The shower floor tiles seem well attached still though (the bottom 3 rows of wall tiles fell off in one go) and we were hoping to keep them.   
What I would like to know is whether it is possible to waterproof our shower with the existing floor tiles in place, or do we need to remove them/tile over/install a base on top? Our plan is to replace the wall sheeting with villaboard, and there is a concrete hob around two sides of the shower base.  We would really appreciate an advice, we are keen to learn but have no experience in this area at all!

----------


## Oldsaltoz

> I am new to this forum - I have spent hours reading through all of the advice many of you post (which has been very helpful by the way!), but now I need to ask a question of my own.  We are renovating our first house and have started in the bathroom.  We pulled off the wall tiles in the shower to discover the wall sheeting underneath was wet.  The shower floor tiles seem well attached still though (the bottom 3 rows of wall tiles fell off in one go) and we were hoping to keep them.   
> What I would like to know is whether it is possible to waterproof our shower with the existing floor tiles in place, or do we need to remove them/tile over/install a base on top? Our plan is to replace the wall sheeting with villaboard, and there is a concrete hob around two sides of the shower base.  We would really appreciate an advice, we are keen to learn but have no experience in this area at all!

  You can waterproof over old tiles but only if they are properly installed, tapping them with a coin will indicate if they are suitable, any hollow or drummy ones and up they must come. 
You might also find replacing the wall sheets a little problematic, particularly as the original ones will be bellow the existing base. 
You will also have to remove the waste grate and make sure the pipe comes up far enough to get a new seal when waterproofing. 
Good luck.  :Smilie:

----------


## Startingout

Thanks for your quick response Oldsaltoz.  I have tapped all of the base tiles and they sound solid, but the grout needs redoing quite badly.  Will I need to regrout before waterproofing over the top of the tiles? 
We are going to remove the wall sheeting this afternoon, I have my fingers crossed it won't give us too much trouble - we can already see the base of the sheets, they don't seem to go below the existing base, and we can't see any evidence of a waterproof membrane, which is probably why the sheeting was wet?? 
Do you think we will be able to waterproof this shower properly ourselves, or should  I get in a professional?  We will be moving next year and renting out our house and I want this fixed properly so we don't have to worry about it causing any more problems.

----------


## Oldsaltoz

> Thanks for your quick response Oldsaltoz.  I have tapped all of the base tiles and they sound solid, but the grout needs redoing quite badly.  Will I need to re grout before waterproofing over the top of the tiles?  No need to, you will be waterproofing over this so don't bother. 
> We are going to remove the wall sheeting this afternoon, I have my fingers crossed it won't give us too much trouble - we can already see the base of the sheets, they don't seem to go below the existing base, and we can't see any evidence of a waterproof membrane, which is probably why the sheeting was wet?? 
> Do you think we will be able to waterproof this shower properly ourselves, or should  I get in a professional?  We will be moving next year and renting out our house and I want this fixed properly so we don't have to worry about it causing any more problems.

  In your situation as a land lord I expect you want minimum problems to worry about and failed waterproofing in a rented property is one I would avaid if possible. 
The fact is that many of the DIY waterproofing systems fail to stand up, partly because they are not applied properly, partly because the product used is not up to snuff and may not even meet the minimum standards if ever tested. 
I do waterproofing every day and advise people to call 1800 025 081, get a free quote and a written guarantee Australia wide. You get a certificate and form 16 that are recognised by the Insurance companies. :Eek:  
Good luck.  :Wink:

----------


## Startingout

You're right, we are trying to minimise any problems that might happen as landlords, so I'll give that number a try.  Seems like we have a lot to learn about this renovation stuff.   
Thanks for helping us out  :Smilie:

----------


## Startingout

Ok, so we have replaced the wall sheeting and I have booked a waterproofer, but I need some more advice about the waste grate.  I have taken the silver grate out, leaving a round hole with a flat octagonal outside edge in line with the tiles.  Do I need to get this part out (how??) or can I just put an insert inside the original hole to bring the grate level up to the new tile level.  Do I need to do this before the waterproofer comes or will they take care of it?  Will I need a plumber or can I do it myself?

----------


## Oldsaltoz

> Ok, so we have replaced the wall sheeting and I have booked a waterproofer, but I need some more advice about the waste grate.  I have taken the silver grate out, leaving a round hole with a flat octagonal outside edge in line with the tiles. 
>  Do I need to get this part out (how??) or can I just put an insert inside the original hole to bring the grate level up to the new tile level.  Do I need to do this before the waterproofer comes or will they take care of it?  Will I need a plumber or can I do it myself?

  Best to remove it, a chisel or a good tap with a hammer, the waterproofer needs to get the membrane down onto the original wast pipe. 
If looks like going south, leave it for the waterproofer, but is should be pretty simple. 
Good luck.  :Smilie:

----------


## Startingout

Thanks again for your quick reply oldsaltoz!  We are getting a little nervous about tiling over the old tiles.  I did your coin test and the tiles all sounded solid, and there were no water marks on the pipes or timber studs in the wall recess.  Would we be safe in assuming that the moisture on our wall sheeting was coming through the shower wall or joins, or are we taking a risk in not lifting the floor tiles to check the plumbing underneath?  While we are keen to save money we do want to do a quality job.  The moisture on the wall sheets looked like this:   
Since the tiles sound firm, and the moisture did not extend beyond the edge of the tile line we are assuming the moisture probably came through the vertical join of the walls or at the base of the wall, rather than through plumbing or the floor.  Would you agree?

----------


## Oldsaltoz

> Thanks again for your quick reply oldsaltoz!  We are getting a little nervous about tiling over the old tiles.  I did your coin test and the tiles all sounded solid, and there were no water marks on the pipes or timber studs in the wall recess.  Would we be safe in assuming that the moisture on our wall sheeting was coming through the shower wall or joins, or are we taking a risk in not lifting the floor tiles to check the plumbing underneath?  While we are keen to save money we do want to do a quality job.  The moisture on the wall sheets looked like this:   
> Since the tiles sound firm, and the moisture did not extend beyond the edge of the tile line we are assuming the moisture probably came through the vertical join of the walls or at the base of the wall, rather than through plumbing or the floor.  Would you agree?

  Your drawing indicating the areas that were moist would rule out a leak in the waste as it would not be able to reach that area, in any case the new waterproofing will extend down into the old waste to the plumbing, so you should be very safe. 
So yes I would agree. 
Good luck.  :Smilie:

----------


## an3_bolt

Just a quick update on the progress: 
What do they say ......... anger, then denial and then to depression and then acceptance. Bugger that - got a job to do :Whip: 
So - out with the hammer drill (nothing like a hammer drill to feel better about things...) Attachment 86825 
Left a good mess of waterproofing on the walls and the tile adhesive is an absolute bugger. So got hold a concrete renovator (some call it a scarab - I call it a rectum ripper) and gave the walls a going over. Some one at least did a descent job on the rendering as the walls are pretty straight. Attachment 86826
So that leaves ripping up the floor. a quick dig with the trusty hammer drill revealed a screed on top of concrete......all at the wrong level (ie there was a step up to go into the bathroom). Unable to retain the concrete slab as the levels just don't work. The concrete was not the original base as it appears someone actually removed that they previously renovated the bathroom. But they put 10mm reo in the slab they poured over the old slag fill!!! 10mm reo in a 1.65 x 2.1 bathroom!! %&&^!#!!  :Ranting2: Builder friend lent me his demo saw and a cut most of it into large chunks and some  jack hammering had it looking like this: Attachment 86827
So - if you are going to do something - I kind of figure do it properly. Skips bin and 3m3 of digging got rid of the infill and time to start a new base - in this case will use a timber sub floor frame and compressed cement with a screed over the top. In with the frame prior to the rough in from the plumber. Few extra things to through in as well such as proper sub floor ventilation etc. Attachment 86828 
2 really important lessons that I think that can be learnt from this: 
1. The person who previously renovated the bathroom did not have water stops anywhere, incorrect (ie no) gradients and what appears to be a waterproofing compound that re-emulsified once it became saturated. Did I mention the ^&* idiot who left tile spacers in and then grouted over?  :Rant:  Just a matter of time before it failed.
2. Using demo saws indoors. Take extra extra caution - carbon monoxide will get you very very very quickly - before you even notice it. Good tip to turn off the power to the house prior to ripping out a slab with the saw - you just do not know who put a cable where........and yes I found a power cable in the wall right at the surface without conduit that had a very thin skim layer of cement over it ( found it due to inspecting a very small crack in the render....). That could have been a shocking experience! 
So - plumber rough-in and then the part that I enjoy doing - the rebuilding properly of a bathroom!

----------


## SlowMick

awesome work bloke - keep going - at least you are back to adding things to the room.  always a good turning point. 
I am currently rebuilding a bathroom that was renovated by somone who thought they could pour a shower base around an existing waste and the water would magically find it's way down the drain.  :Doh:   
my sister was putting the vacuum away in her linen cupboard and and it almost went through the water logged wall into the shower. :Mad:

----------


## Oldsaltoz

Hang in there bloke, you are on the road to success and satisfaction. 
All this extra effort and cost because some idiot failed to lay in about 20 bucks of alloy water stops and thought he could save a bob by using a rubbish DIY waterproofing system. 
Keep up the good work and good luck.  :Smilie:

----------


## Ken-67

Great job you are doing. Just as a matter of interest, the cross-shaped spacers are sold as a spacer to be left 'in situ' A lot of tilers do leave them in. I've always thought it was a silly idea, and never used them.

----------


## an3_bolt

I appreciate that some can be - but not so sure about "deep" spacers. Had a poof-teenth of grout over the top of the spacer because they were so deep. 
...."do it once - do it properly". 
Cheers

----------


## an3_bolt

Attachment 87585Slow progress but getting there. Took the opportunity to change the layout somewhat. So the floor is dropped in and graded, rough in for the plumbing done, shower channel installed and waterproofing completed. Ready for tiling. 
As I am using slightly larger format tiles, the grading was to a central shower channel, that has a central mounted shower screen to accept drainage from both sides, as well as a flashing piece on the wall that also acts as the shower screen channel. All 316 stainless. The shower channel also has a proper tiling lip for the waterproofing to apply to (one of the very few I have been able to locate). Due to the drain hole location, specially fabricated and cost a small fortune, but I expect it will not only look good but work very well. So in effect - there is no requirement for any compound curves / diagonally cut tiles (especially important as it is a very small bathroom 1.65 x 2.1m). Simplifies the screeding somewhat - but still a pain getting it to the mm (laser leveller was extremely useful once again). 
Went with a water based polyurethane membrane on this one for 2 reasons on top of the screed:
1. Membrane characteristics - chemical resistance and a class 3 for any movement
2. The technical department for this one answered all my specific detailed enquiries within 24 hours every time. :Biggrin:  
I have previously used a self priming water based rubber membrane that has worked very well - with very good foot traffic ability whilst tiling......however they did not answer any of the specific tricky technical questions that I required. :Fineprint:  
Hope to get around to tiling next week when get a couple of days off work......no holidays for some :Cool:  
Pity you never see any of this stuff once it is completed ......

----------


## Oldsaltoz

Top marks, top effort, have a great new year an3_bolt  :Smilie:

----------


## an3_bolt

Thanks Oldsaltoz. 
I have to say i have very much enjoyed the waterproofing process. I have done a bathroom before, and researched the details for proper waterproofing previously. However I really enjoyed the forensic part of analysing why it is done this way or that way, characteristics of various compounds this time around etc. I am sure for a pro such as yourself you must have a system set up for various scenarios, but for me not doing this for a living - I found the "process" very interesting.  
Certainly took a huge amount of research to complete the understanding of "why" and not just "how" - and I would probably go so far as to say the Australian Standards are inadequate to ensure a bathroom that will not fail.

----------


## Oldsaltoz

> Thanks Oldsaltoz. 
> I have to say i have very much enjoyed the waterproofing process. I have done a bathroom before, and researched the details for proper waterproofing previously. However I really enjoyed the forensic part of analysing why it is done this way or that way, characteristics of various compounds this time around etc. I am sure for a pro such as yourself you must have a system set up for various scenarios, but for me not doing this for a living - I found the "process" very interesting.  
> Certainly took a huge amount of research to complete the understanding of "why" and not just "how" - and I would probably go so far as to say the Australian Standards are inadequate to ensure a bathroom that will not fail.

  
My only comment on the Australian Standards for waterproofing is that I have to remind people all the time that the standard is the minimum required to pass muster. 
A proper job requires a little more. 
Good luck.  :Smilie:  
.

----------


## an3_bolt

Finally winning......sort of..... 
Enjoying the tiling. Hard work doing 600 x 300 on the walls with a 2mm spacer but will look good. 
Was going really well until I dislocated my shoulder .... :Eek:   
Guess I am going to get a month or 3 at home (can't do my day job as it involves reaching above my head and turning stuff....). 
Not so easy 1 handed, but fortunately the good Mrs has been willing to lend a hand - and has been getting pretty good at it too.   Attachment 87779

----------


## an3_bolt

Winning - yeahhh! :Ohyaaa:   Attachment 87962 Attachment 87961

----------


## SlowMick

awesome work bloke.  i'd be happy to buy your house when you're finished with it  :2thumbsup:  
hope the shoulder is feelin better.

----------

