# Forum Home Renovation Doors, Windows, Architraves & Skirts  Flat track sliding door question

## Mick666

Hi all, 
I HAVE ALREADY POSTED THIS QUESTION IN THE METALWORK FORUM BUT WAS DIRECTED HERE AS A BETTER SPOT - CORRECTLY I HOPE!!  
My question is regarding flat track sliding doors (aka barn doors(in the US) or open rail sliding doors here - refer to pics) - I am looking to put one in my home as it is the ideal type of door for our hallway. As it stands at present however, the only place I can find in Australia that sells this type of door hardware is an 'Architectural' company who is not willing to give me any change from 1100 big ones!!! Yikes. And as the concept is relatively simple I figure I can 'make' it myself for less...here's hoping.  
But I need some wheel advice as it seems the main manufacturer of these grooved wheels is a company called Richmond Casters and they seem to make them for things other than rolling on top of a piece of 50x6mm flat steel - so what I need to know is if anyone out there has ever made/constructed one of these sliding door systems and if so what sort of wheel groove they used (ie rope, c or v groove)? Any and ALL advice will be greatly appreciated as this has been causing me some major headaches with the missus of late and I'd really like to get it over with....come on people, you dig my pain right?!?!? 
Beers
Mick

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## Jacksin

I cant offer much help Im afraid Mick but the track reminds me of those used on coldroom doors, it certainly looks like commercial standard.

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## SilentButDeadly

these look like fire doors to me..... 
And an old shed of mine had these. 
Personally I'd use cast iron V sheave from an engineering shop and the rest is simply off the shelf steel.....although a Delrin sheave would be quieter 
Something like these http://www.castorsandindustrial.com....ve_wheels.html

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## Bloss

I wouldn't use that type of roller indoors - too noisy. But to get the industrial look you are after why not go for something like these:  http://www.cowdroy.com.au/omge.pdf 
which would allow you to make whatever door type you like and have nylon rollers so are quiet and maintenance free. 
There are other alternatives that would get the result you want at much less cost - albeit with a compromise on the appearance you are after. 
As SBD says there are various industrial options, but none are cheap.

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## Mick666

Hi all, 
sorry to bring back an old topic but I finally got the grooved wheels I was after through a friend of mine who had a friend that was a machinist...YAY!!!!  
Ennyhu, now I'm just getting prepared to attach the track(flat bar) to the wall and my first thought is how to connect the track without it punching holes through my plaster once the door is sitting on top? I had thought I would use flanged spacers (refer to pic) so that the weight is dispersed somewhat when the door is hung on top but I still think this may pull down too much on the bolt and hence make the spacer tip slightly and go through the plaster underneath. So I'm now thinking that I may have to run to sets of tracks parallel to each other with a spacer welded in between - Not quite as minimal as I would have liked though....anyone out there got any other suggestions??...I'm all ears. 
Also one other quick question while I have your attention - I have a steel framed house so what would be the best screw to use? If I had a timber frame I would have gone a dirty big coach screw but I'm not sure whether they work in a steel frame? 
Many thanks
Mick.

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## chuth77

Have you looked at BUnnings... They have heaps of various sliding door kits...

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## TermiMonster

I installed a system something like this about 10 years ago.   I Can't remember what brand but it was similar to Eltrack: http://www.eltrak.com.au/pdf/Eltrak_...tion_Guide.pdf
You will be advised to fix a timber batten along the length of the track, to spread the weight, screwed at each stud.  I'm not a big fan of putting much weight on steel studs.( Never actually had anything fall off though, just paranoid I guess).
Good luck,
TM

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## Mick666

Hi TM,  
ta for the reply - yeah, placing a timber batten the length of the track is exactly what I had originally decided I was going to do but as I'm trying to keep the aesthetics minimalistic I thought a parallel track behind the first track (essentially the same thing as the timber batten but narrower) would be less obvious looking. Dispersing that weight is definitely what I'm most concerned about, although it is just a standard internal cardboard core door, only slightly taller and wider.  
What would be the issue, as you see it, with going through the metal studs? I figured they would be just the same as timber...more or less? That said I've never had to go through with anything other than the odd screw for a picture or a curtain/blind so I guess'll find out eh :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): .
Cheers
Mick

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## TermiMonster

If the door is fairly light, there would be no problem at all.
If you feel it's not getting a good fixing, try using a hollow wall anchor as well, but just screwing to the metal studs should be fine.

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## autogenous

Have a look here to see if you can find a detail?  http://www.fielders.com.au/aspx/door_frames.aspx 
Fielders make a standard metal internal sliding door frame. The track is metal concave with nylon wheels that roll inside the track. There's a pelmet that sits in front of the track to hide it.
You wont need to reinvent the wheel then.

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## autogenous

If you can picture a 25mm nylon wheel in concave *L* track your onto it. 
Theres also a flat bar where a groove in the door slides over to stop the door flipping outwards at the bottom.

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