# Forum Home Renovation Pergolas, Gazebos, Strombellas & Rotundas  flashings between vertical weatherboard cladding and laserlite pergola

## lilon

Hi, 
I built a timber pergola with laserlite roofing. I am looking for L shaped cost effective flashing to seal a 20mm gap between the laserlite and the weatherboard cladding of the house. The gap is max 20mm, the cladding extend about 150mm above the laserlite so either stick the top end of the flashing under the next cladding, or if its a flashing with a bent end, notch the cladding and stick in the edge. 
Would appreciate suggestions. I am in NSW. 
thanks

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## totoblue

Laserlite makes L shaped flashing made of polycarbonate.  Bunnings at one time stocked it, then later didn't stock it; don't know if they have it now.
Laserlite website http://www.laserlite.com.au/resident...c_flashing.asp
As I remember, it is quite expensive.  Suntuf (another manufacturer) says to use zincalume or colorbond flashing, which is quite a bit cheaper. 
Have a look at this (Plumbing Industry Commission in Vic) http://www.pic.vic.gov.au/www/html/1....asp#anchor182
and click on  "Flashings roofs to walls (315KB)" 
If the end of the laserlite is against your wall then you will need something to stop the rain being blown up under the flashing.  With metal roofing you would turn up the ends so I don't know what is used for poly roofs.  Perhaps some of that grey foam "eaves infill" which is made to fit the brand and profile of your roof material (you can get a profile for above the roof, and one for below the roof).  Or some silicone in the channels.  Or some Flashtac tape (under the metal flashing).

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## totoblue

> the cladding extend about 150mm above the laserlite so either stick the top end of the flashing under the next cladding, or if its a flashing with a bent end, notch the cladding and stick in the edge.

  Forgot to say, I think the notching method would promote rotting of the cladding where it touches the flashing.  I would go for plain L-shaped flashing.  You can get it in 150mm which would cover the cladding right up to the top.  A bit of sealant behind the flashing at the top should stop any moisture wicking in behind the top of the flashing.  Or you could slide straight L-shaped flashing less than 150mm up under the next piece of cladding. 
If your cladding is timber and you go for a less-than-150mm flashing, it might be worth replacing the cladding above the pergola with some rot proof cladding in a similar profile.  You may get some splashing of dirt and water onto the wall. 
All this depends on the width of the eaves, slope of the pergola etc.

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## lilon

I'll look into these options. Also, I happen to have a 288mm Norton Flashtac tape. I know it is not usually meant for this purpose, but if I used it with silkaflex on the weatherboard side, and stuck the foam you mentioned to prevent back draft under the tape to seal the corrogation - again with silkaflex, would that work? 
thanks

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## totoblue

> I'll look into these options. Also, I happen to have a 288mm Norton Flashtac tape. I know it is not usually meant for this purpose, but if I used it with silkaflex on the weatherboard side, and stuck the foam you mentioned to prevent back draft under the tape to seal the corrogation - again with silkaflex, would that work? 
> thanks

  I think Flashtac on it's own would probably work but would look bodgey.  Proper zincalume flashing is not expensive. 
If it were me, I'd use 150mm metal L-shaped flashing, taking it right up to the top of the cladding.  Between the flashing and the roofing, I'd use the foam that is pre-cut to matching the profile of your roofing. 
BTW this is technically a job for a licensed plumber (at least in VIC) and I am not one. 
If you download the installation guide from here http://www.laserlite.com.au/resident...c_flashing.asp
which is in Powerpoint (you can download free Powerpoint viewers if you don't have powerpoint), it shows two types of flashing in use.  One is L shaped as above, the other is U shaped for use when there is no room on the wall above the roof for L-shaped flashing.

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## amit

'Such a useful thread Ive been looking this topic everywhere!'

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## r3nov8or

Assuming you have at least 5 degrees fall on the laserlite roof. Your zincalum flashing should have the same fall. Not sure you will be able to buy it with your fall off the shelf. Any decent roofing supplier will bend and cut it to your specifications. I've used Steeline, Plumbers Plus and most recently Lysaght and all do it. see attached for example of a flashing profile 
Edit: if you want to get an idea of cost, call them, state the overall dimension (270mm in the attached example) and that you need two bends.  
Re the profiled foam eave infill, my experience is that it is expensive for what it is (and fails if not installed well) and I just use silicone in the valleys to stop 'wash back'. But choose a silicone that is recommended for use on polycarbonate.

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