# Forum Home Renovation Structural Renovation  Rumpus Renovation

## frog_hopper

Hi Everyone, 
Our house is double story 70's brick veneer, with a "rumpus" area under neath that is not legal height (215cm). 
The internal walls of the rumpus are single skin brick veneer and the infill slab was done after the house was built (and is so terrible it needs to be jackhammered up and replaced ... worst concrete job ever). 
The double brick peers are ugly, and the termite cappings are at the top of the wall and I don't think there is a damp proof course. 
Unfortunately the brickwork was painted, and is coming off in places - perhaps because the walls are not weatherproof? 
We know that there are limitations with what we can do under this house (as it was not designed to be built in) but has anyone got some ideas how we can rectify the problem or make it as "habitable" as possible? 
Ideas so far are: 
* Remove paint from brickwork and repaint, or 
* Bust up concrete and put down new slab (have to do this anyway) with moisture barrier underneath and sheet over the walls. Would need to put a termite reticulation system in place as this would cover up the termite caps, but no damp proof course could prove to be an issue here. 
* Remove soil away to below ground level, paint with back tar, and put soil back to ground level. 
* On the walls where there are no windows, we thought of having a series of cupboards as part of the wall, so that we can still check the termite caps. 
Open to any suggestions people may have.  
Thanks
Frog_hopper 
p.s tried to attach pics but no luck?

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## frog_hopper

Here are some pics of the rumpus area ...

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## frog_hopper

Anyone got any pointers here?

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## DvdHntr

I would talk to a termite company about a better way to termite protect. Then think about installing a timber wall to give you a cavity. Can you increase the room height? 
I don't think this would get past council otherwise.

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## frog_hopper

Hi DvdHntr, 
Thanks for your reply - will talk to a termite company.  
The only way we could get more height is to excavate down below the current ground level, but this would complicate levels where the stairs the the upper level start. 
I don't think we will get it pass council, but we just want to make it relatively functional as it currently looks like an eyesore. 
It would be good to get the advise of a builder, but until we get the plans drawn up no one will come and have a look.  Catch-22 as we don't know what to put on the plans until we know what is possible (chicken and egg). 
Thanks again,
frog_hopper

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## silentC

Neighbours across the road wanted to do this. The main issue was termite protection because they are in a bush setting. The Termimesh guy basically walked away because he could not guarantee the job - brick walls on strip footing with infill slab = invitation to termites. You might be able to protect it with a chemical barrier but I don't believe there is any way you can retrofit a physical barrier in your situation. I could be wrong, so it's worth asking the question I suppose - I'm just going off what the Termimesh guy told me in relation to the neighbours. 
What I would not do is anything that covers up the existing termite protection, or allows the termites to bridge it. Putting in a stud wall that extends from floor to under floor of the storey above provides them with easy access. I have seen this in action. We had a house with the identical situation to yours. The house was single storey on piers. The previous owner excavated between the piers, poured a slab and then built a room underneath. The stud wall connected to the underside of the joists above. We noticed some drummy spots in floorboards one day, pulled up the carpet and found some termite activity. Further investigation revealed a stud wall with extensive damage, several other floorboards damaged and damage to various skirtings and architraves throughout the house. The first thing I did was demolished the room underneath to restore the original termite barrier.  
The most important thing I think is to make sure that there are no hidden paths to the floor above. That means that you need to be able to inspect the ant capping. Unless you can get a barrier installed to protect from the lower floor level up, I would not even consider building stud walls.

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## frog_hopper

Thanks for your reply Silentc. 
It appears that the only way forward is for a chemical barrier (we are going to bust up the concrete anyway), or otherwise don't build in any walls, or build in walls with sime way of being able to inspect the termite barriers.   
I am not confident with the longevity of these chemical barriers - will see what I can find out and will talk to the termite guy.

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## DvdHntr

Try asking about Kordon.

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## frog_hopper

Hi Again, 
Here are some pics of something like we were thinking of doing - painting the underside of the upstairs ceiling/bearers/joists white (rather than a roof as it is below legal height - to make it feel higher) and then putting some walls in .... but as suggested - I will follow up on the chemical barrier option first - otherwise it sounds too dodgey. 
Cheers

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## DvdHntr

Just be careful of that as you are removing a ceiling diaphragm that may be vital in the bracing of the house and/or joists.

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## frog_hopper

Dvdhntr - rumpus ceiling has already been removed - it was added after the house was built. Had the asbestos guys round who stripped out the whole rumpus of asbestos. Thanks

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## silentC

I think you can cut an expansion joint between the infill slab and the strip footing and install Kordon. Definitely worth asking about.

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## frog_hopper

SilentC - when you say expansion joint, what do you mean?  Thanks heaps.

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## Theremin

We had a chemical barrier installed in our previous place, for a similar situation.  It cost about $1700 and from memory was supposed to last for 5 years.  We had to put a 300mmx50mm strip of concrete right around the house to protect the chemical barrier.  This was required to get it certified.  This was in Qld.

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## silentC

> when you say expansion joint, what do you mean?

  Sorry missed this the other day. An expansion joint is just a gap in the concrete slab that allows for expansion. They usually put one in a large slab, or in places where cracking is likely to occur. You can cut it in with an angle grinder. In you case, it would just be to give the Kordon somewhere to go (it's like a sheet of material which is impregnated with a chemical that the termites don't like).

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## SilentButDeadly

Sand blast the walls, coat with a waterproofing agent then topcoat with your favorite painted finsh. 
Leave the slab unless it is totaly breaking apart.  Just float a top coating over it to refinish it.  
Install termite traps in the slab. Basically you use a core drill to drill out a small circle then fit these trap thingys - they aren't the be all but they will mean you don't have to go mad with chemicals all the time.

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## frog_hopper

Hey - thanks all. 
We have got the termite guy coming out next week for a look ... will let you know what he says. 
Might get the bricks sandblasted as suggested, repaint, and then put in a ceiling (probably covering up the ant caps), but with a chemical barrier as well, I doubt they will make it all the way up through the bricks to the rumpus ceiling. 
Incidently - what is the chance that termites can travel up the inside of two meters of bricks?  Do all bricks have holes in them?  Wouldn't the mortar block their path? The top line of bricks looks like they have no holes, but not sure about the other ones below. 
Cheers everyone!

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## silentC

> what is the chance that termites can travel up the inside of two meters of bricks?

  Don't assume that they can't they're very tenacious little buggers. Your termite guy will assess the chances of it and determine what, if anything, you can do. Make sure you tell him you plan to put in a ceiling and cover the ant capping so that he takes that into account.

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## bugsy

im trying to get a handle on this room.
I take it as under floor height, like a celler might be? 
one thing to watch is ,
is that a strip footing running on the inside i can see?
An infill slab?
If you are going to put on floor coverings, termites will come up the crack between the footing and slab floor.
thats something else to think about. Sorry.

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## silentC

Bugsy, we went through that on the previous page. He's going to get a termite guy to come in and see if anything can be done. Kordon has been suggested. There is a detail on the Kordon web site that shows it being used in an expansion gap. It might be possible to install it between the strip footing and the infill slab. 
The only problem I can see with that, assuming that it is feasible, is that it would be impossible to tell whether there are any voids in the footing under the brickwork. Would also need to make sure that the edge of the footing is completely exposed on the outside.

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## silentC

Looks like I didn't read it properly either. Seems he's planning to smash up the existing infill slab and re-pour. 
If you do that, you can probably use Termimesh. They could parge it onto the strip footing and cast the other edge in the new slab. I prefer Termimesh to Kordon because it doesn't rely on chemicals. It's a physical barrier (stainless steel mesh). The parging cement is rock hard and termites can't eat through it.

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## silentC

> Kordon will not stop termites from entering the building from the crack between the footing and in fill slab , as i have suggested in my previous post. As for Kordon itself, there a plenty of...

  You seem to have deleted your last post Bugsy but I just want to point out that I'm personally a bit sceptical about it, but I am by no means an expert on it. My neighbours tried to do a similar thing and the Termimesh contractor couldn't help them. They built the room anyway. 
I think it's definitely worth speaking to a termite guy and worth getting Termimesh to have a look. Nothing to lose. 
The crack between footing and slab will be taken out of the equation by the fact that he's planning to rip up and replace the existing slab, at which point it _might_ be possible to protect the join with Termimesh or something.

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## frog_hopper

Parging - Hadn't thought about the parging option with termimesh - will follow that up.  Strip footings - I suppose that is what the stip of double bricks is at the bottom of the wall?   Chemicals - Anyone know how much these tremite reticulation systems cost? 
Thanks all.

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## silentC

The strip footing is the strip of concrete on which the bricks are laid. It's usually formed by digging a trench and filling it with concrete and reo. 
The problem is that you've no way of telling if it is continuous. For example, at our previous house, we discovered there was a gap in the footing under one of the walls and the termites were coming up through that and then into an adjacent stud wall. 
They really are tenacious little buggers. They work around the clock. No trade unions in the termite world.

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## mummybeast

HI froghopper 
I would be a bit careful about making sure that any work you do can be assessed by your local authority.  Where we live they are doing compulsory property checks (YES it is legal!) to make sure that houses have no unauthorised structures.  Apparently this is going to be a more widespread practice by local councils. 
We were in a similar situation (and yes we got caught by council - long story grrrrr!) with work done by previous owner except their work is extremely high quality, almost professional. BUT they just didn't have any council approvals done.  
What I have done is
1. Check local council records if possible to see what is what.  They may be able to get you a set of plans for the building.
2. Speak to SEVERAL termite guys.  Try to deal with the ones who do "old" houses. I seriously got the irrits with a couple of guys who just walked away from the gate and said they do not do preexisting structures because they are too hard.
3.  Try finding a private certifier - what we used to call a building inspector.  These guys can come out, look around and tell you what you can/cannot do to your rooms, and what will/will not be legal, and whether it can be made what they call "habitable" at all.
4. You will need to get a civil engineer to give you a structural certificate to say the building is not going to fall down in the next cyclone.  Ring around and ask if they will come out and take a look. 
Good luck.  I know it is really frustrating, but you are better off to do it right.

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## pawnhead

> and whether it can be made what they call "habitable" at all.

  It doesn't have to be habitable. It's a 'store room'  :Wink:  
[ramble]
I once built an architect designed four story house that had amazing store rooms on the bottom levels. They had huge windows with panoramic views of Sydney harbour, and they opened up to large patios:   
The reason that they were 'store rooms' is that for a house over two storeys, you have to have a minimum 1500 set back from your side boundaries, but only 900 set back otherwise.  :Biggrin:  
edit; The surveyor made a huge mistake on that job as well. He was 1.5 metres out on his heights at the back, but luckily for him, I picked up the mistake before the excavation had gone too far into the solid rock. The operator of the huge excavator did an amazing job of ascending the very steep hillside. His skills were very impressive.
[/ramble]

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## frog_hopper

It's not legal height - so it won't be habitable anyways.  We just want to tidy it up and make it a usable area of sorts.

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## bugsy

> You seem to have deleted your last post Bugsy but I just want to point out that I'm personally a bit sceptical about it, but I am by no means an expert on it. My neighbours tried to do a similar thing and the Termimesh contractor couldn't help them. They built the room anyway. 
> I think it's definitely worth speaking to a termite guy and worth getting Termimesh to have a look. Nothing to lose. 
> The crack between footing and slab will be taken out of the equation by the fact that he's planning to rip up and replace the existing slab, at which point it _might_ be possible to protect the join with Termimesh or something.

  I deleted my post because things were getting a bit mixed up. :Smilie:  
I didnt realise that the poster was looking into ripping up the floor.
My deleted  post was in regards to kordon not helping with the problem of the crack between the footing and infill slab. 
So after reading your post, i deleted mine because it wasnt necessary. 
This floor area could simply  be drilled and injected with chemical.   

> I seriously got the irrits with a couple of guys who just walked away from the gate and said they do not do preexisting structures because they are too hard.

  Unfortunately some people think we have magic wands and a quick to take cases to court.
Even though what ever you have done was to the book. 
So i can understand why some pest managers walk away from jobs.

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## mummybeast

> It's not legal height - so it won't be habitable anyways. We just want to tidy it up and make it a usable area of sorts.

  If you did want to think about a "living area" rather than just a storage area, then although the ceiling height is SUPPOSED to be 2400mm, you can get away with 2100 in some circumstances. But the guidelines regarding light and ventilation are very strict in these cases.  That is where a private certifier can help, but it will cost $$$. 
Bugsy - I know you guys don't have a magic wand! I think people need to get realistic about what can and can't be done with pest control.  I mean, I see termite control as being a bit like sunscreen - it works most of the time pretty well, but there will always be a risk if you keep going out in the sun no matter how much sunscreen you put on IYKWIM! :Biggrin:

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## silentC

> you can get away with 2100 in some circumstances

  I think you'll find that's only allowable if the majority of the room is 2400. So you can have an alcove with a 2100 ceiling height, but the room into which it opens must be 2400. Or if you have an attic room, it's allowable for the walls to be <2400 so long as the slope up to at least that height - something along those lines.

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## thebuildingsurv

Dont need light to a non habitable room and only ventilation when its a shower toilet laundry etc.

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## pawnhead

It used to be that for raking ceilings, 2/3 of the floor area had to be over 2400 ceiling height, and walls were to be minimum 1500. But I think they stuffed around with it some years ago. I don't know about alcoves/bay windows or the like, but I think that they're approved at the discretion of your council. Bathrooms and laundries are minimum 2100.  
Does anyone have a current copy of the code?

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## pawnhead

> Dont need light to a non habitable room and only ventilation when its a shower toilet laundry etc.

   

> HSL technology uses rooftop collectors — four-foot-wide mirrored dishes — that track the sun with the help of GPS chips. The collectors focus the sunlight onto 127 optical fibers, bundled into a single chord as wide as a quarter. 
> The fibers — which can be thought of as flexible light pipes — are connected to hybrid light fixtures that have special diffusing rods that spread out the light in all directions. One collector powers about eight hybrid light fixtures — which can illuminate about 10,000 square feet. http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/7287168/

  Oak Ridge Laboratories Sunlight Direct  OLEDs are an interesting breakthrough as well:  

> If the device can be mass-manufactured cheaply - a realistic expectation, according to Thompson - interior lighting could look vastly different in the future. Almost any surface in a home, whether flat or curved, could become a light source: walls, curtains, ceilings, cabinets or tables. 
> Since OLEDs are transparent when turned off, the devices could even be installed as windows or skylights to mimic the feel of natural light after dark - or to serve as the ultimate inconspicuous flat-panel television.  http://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releas...-hef041006.php

  Then there's light tube technology that's been around for a while. The main problem is the size of the tube, and eliminating losses over distances and around corners.
I saw an item on a science program of a different technology that naturally converted most of the light spectrum, to be transferred by cable, but a narrow range of the spectrum had to be reproduced artificially using electricity. The same program also showed an extremely efficient 'light tube' technology that could transfer light to the inside of tall buildings. The system didn't need to track the sun, and used small straight tubes and focusing mirrors, but I can't find it on the net. Of course it would be limited by the amount of light that strikes the collection area.

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## mummybeast

Our downstairs ceiling height is only 2200mm, and we have been given the OK for habitable rooms - good thing too as that is where some of our bedrooms are! 
you have to have 5%available wall space used for ventilation, and 10% used for natural light.  This can be windows, glass doors etc etc.   
That is where our certifier came in - we had to present an "acceptable alternative solution" report showing that the lowered ceiling height was in no way going to present a danger or loss of usability of the area.   
When the rooms were built, apparently you could have an area designated "rumpus/entertainment" with the lower ceiling height OK, but bedrooms had to be 2400mm or greater.

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## frog_hopper

Just reporting in with some feedback.  
Had the termite guy out, who said it was possible to protect against termites with a reticulation system - one lot of retic on the inside under the infill slab, and another around the exterior. The guy recomended Termidore as the far superior product to use. 
Aparantly our bricks do not have holes in them so the termites cannot crawn up through any brick holes, however there is some risk up through the middle of the double brick piers (where the 4 bricks of each course meet in the middle).  
NOW ONTO THE NEXT PROBLEM .... 
WHAT ABOUT RISING DAMP? Can anyone advise if this will be an issue given that there is a strip footing and infill slab.  
We had a builder out the other day, who said that if we lower the outside ground level to about 200mm below the inside ground we won't have an issue. He also suggested painting the outside brick with a clear waterproofing agent on the southern wall (the one that cops the rain the worst). The new infill slab will have a moisture barrier underneath. 
This (sealing the outside bricks with a waterproofing agent) contradicts other posts I have seen which say that bricks need to be able to breathe, particularly if there is no damp proof course, and water could be coming up through the footings and lower courses of bricks. 
Don't know who to believe ... help!! 
frog_hopper

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## silentC

I still think you should get Termimesh to have a look. It's a little exy up front but it's a permanent barrier and doesn't need chemicals. In a way I can understand pest managers recommending reticulation systems, because it's an ongoing source of income - not having a shot at them - that's the service they provide. However, you have a potential opportunity to put in a physical barrier while you're pouring the new slab, so I think it would be a good idea to check it out and it wont cost you anything to ask the question. 
Sorry, can't help with the rising damp question.

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## DvdHntr

> We had a builder out the other day, who said that if we lower the outside ground level to about 200mm below the inside ground we won't have an issue. He also suggested painting the outside brick with a clear waterproofing agent on the southern wall (the one that cops the rain the worst). The new infill slab will have a moisture barrier underneath.

  
Just be careful with excavation near an existing footing.

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## bugsy

> I still think you should get Termimesh to have a look.

  what is it with you and Termimesh?
frog-hopper has had a (i hope) professional pest manager inspect the property and offered his advice , but yet you still try to push this product.
As for physical barriers, there is numerous products out there now.  
As with ongoing service, i would think termimesh would need inspecting every 12 months for warrenty purposes as well.

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## DvdHntr

If you can install Kordon, it is the best alternative. It costs about $17.50 per l/m, but it will be money well spent. The biggest problem is that it doesn't suit every situation so it may not be suitable here.

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## silentC

> what is it with you and Termimesh?

  I used it in my place. It comes with a 10 year frame warranty. Of course you should have annual inspections, that goes without saying, regardless of what method you use 
The point is that chemical-based treatments require regular top up, do they not? A physical barrier combined with annual inspections is as good if not better in my opinion. 
As for professional pest managers, I have yet to have one recommend anything other than chemical treatment or bait stations. Do you really think that a guy who makes his living selling chemical treatments is going to recommend a product that does away with the need for them? 
But obviously you can't install kordon or termimesh in a lot of existing situations, right? So if you're building from scratch, you have an opportunity to do things properly. If all you needed was chemicals, why does the BCA require us to put in pier caps and ant capping? All I'm suggesting is that NOW is the time to get someone (and I suggested Termimesh because I have used it) to see whether a physical barrier is feasible in this situation. Unless you want to give the advice that it wont be over the internet without going around and looking at the job. 
So what is it with you and chemicals?  :Wink:

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## thebuildingsurv

I agree i think phisical barriers better than chemicals, however if there is existing brickwork it would be difficult to install one into an existing building without cutting out the mortar.

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## silentC

Yes the engaged piers will be the stumbling block and chances are that a chemical barrier is the only option. Still, it doesn't hurt to have all the facts before deciding, does it?

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## bugsy

this was your quote  

> In a way I can understand pest managers recommending reticulation systems, because it's an ongoing source of income

  you were refering that the pest manager is offering a retic system because he will make money on regular services. 
Yet installing Termimesh or any other physical barrier will require annual inspections anyway.    

> The point is that chemical-based treatments require regular top up, do they not? A physical barrier combined with annual inspections is as good if not better in my opinion.

  everyones entitled to an opinion   

> As for professional pest managers, I have yet to have one recommend anything other than chemical treatment or bait stations. Do you really think that a guy who makes his living selling chemical treatments is going to recommend a product that does away with the need for them?

  are we talking about pre or post construction now?
Discussing treatments often depend on different situations    
Most pest managers install both chemical and physical barriers , i dont see any problems there.   

> If all you needed was chemicals, why does the BCA require us to put in pier caps and ant capping?

  to_ impede_ termite activity   

> Unless you want to give the advice that it wont be over the internet without going around and looking at the job.

  Frog-hopper has already had someone  come out and to have a look, see his above post 
My query was why you keep pushing the product , Termimesh.
Thank-you for telling me it is because you had it installed to your home and you are probably  happy with it , i would assume.
Thats good.   

> So what is it with you and chemicals?

  termites 
i dont want to get into a debate about chemicals and physical barriers, because i install both and it is not what this thread is about.

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## ausdesign

I'll probably get pulled up for digressing from the original thread but - Bugsy, for a new construction would you have a leaning towards a physical or a chemical barrier.

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## bugsy

> I'll probably get pulled up for digressing from the original thread but - Bugsy, for a new construction would you have a leaning towards a physical or a chemical barrier.

  i must edit my previous post. :Blush7:  
"I *have* installed both types of termite protection."
I no longer do pre-construction treatments.
Its my personal decision not to work directly with the building industry. 
if you want to talk about it more maybe a PM would be appropriate as i think we have hijacked this thread enough :Biggrin:  
sorry frog_hopper

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## frog_hopper

I have been studying the kordon sight, and see that you may be able to fix the kordon to the single skin bricks with some kind of spray adhesive. Will follow up.  
Also found out about a product called blockaid (make by graniteguard) that it a bitumenous compound impregnanted with termite repellant that can be used to fill gaps (i.e. in between the infill slab and the single skin wall. 
Still after an answer to the damp problem - Is sealing the outside wall the right way to go (recap -> double story single skin brick with non habitable rumpus). Might make this a separate post on the forum. 
I am beginning to think this is all too hard. Trying to make something what it wasn't designed to be.

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## silentC

Look, all I'm suggesting is that he ask the opinion of someone who can come and look at the job and see if it's feasible to install a physical barrier. If the guy he got out is also an agent for Termimesh or Kordon or any of the others out there, and he said it's not feasible, then all our mate has to do is ignore my post. That's easy. If he doesn't think it's worth getting Termimesh or someone to look at it, then again, ignore me. 
When I ask for advice, I like to hear it from all corners, then I can decide which of it to make use of, rather than having someone else decide for me that certain information is not applicable - especially if that person hasn't even looked at my situation. 
My personal opinion is that it is far better to build in such a way that termites can't get in at all without showing themselves. Even with a reticulation system, I would still be getting annual inspections - I would not put all my faith in the chemicals. With a physical barrier, the chemicals come in to it later when you find activity. Until then, all you need to do is inspect the edges of your barrier. 
I know this is not feasible in all situations. I know there is a place for chemicals. I might appear to be pushing a certain product, this is because it's the only one I really have experience of. I didn't even know it existed until someone told me about it - I thought all termite preventions relied on chemicals. So that's what I'm doing - introducing the concept of chemical-free solutions to someone who may not have been aware of them. 
Frog-hopper - accept my apologies for clogging up your thread. Hope it all works out well.

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## ausdesign

frog_hopper i'm not sure but I think we may have a mix up of terminologies here.
I don't think 'rising damp' is a problem that can't be overcome with injecting a barrier etc. If you're referring to water penetration through the single skin, then yes that will be a problem. Surface treatment of the brickwork doesn't seem to have a high long term success rate. Having said that there are many new homes, in Qld for example, that are constructed with single skin blockwork.
Termites aside have you thought about pouring a new slab with a rebate and constructing an inner framed wall. 
We've done this in the past, converting garages into 'habitable' rooms - there's many items to take into consideration like can a cavity flashing be cut into the brickwork and weep holes be incorporated, head height etc.
Food for thought - I suppose it comes down to how important is the reno & how much will it add to the value of the home vs cost.

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## silentC

Bugsy has rightly taken me to task on my suggestion that pest managers would push a chemical solution because it puts money in their pocket. This obviously ignores the fact that most pest managers these days are across all forms of treatment and prevention and naturally a reputable contractor would recommend the best solution for the situation based on the circumstances and the wishes of the client.   :2thumbsup:

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## Black Ned

Some unscrupulous pest managers manage pests to come back on a regular basis so as to continue their wealth pool. They may even introduce such pests when there was none to begin with.

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## bugsy

> . They may even introduce such pests when there was none to begin with.

  I think the government has done a better job of that than any pest manager could. :Doh:

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## frog_hopper

> frog_hopper i'm not sure but I think we may have a mix up of terminologies here.
> I don't think 'rising damp' is a problem that can't be overcome with injecting a barrier etc.  
> I ASSUME THAT iNJECTING OF THE DAMP COURSE WOULD HAVE TO DO THROUGH THE DOUBLE BRICKS AT THE BASE OF THE WALL (BEFORE THE SINGLE BRICK ABOVE STARTS). 
> If you're referring to water penetration through the single skin, then yes that will be a problem. Surface treatment of the brickwork doesn't seem to have a high long term success rate. Having said that there are many new homes, in Qld for example, that are constructed with single skin blockwork. 
> WOULD THIS BE ADDRESSED BY THE FLASHING (IS THIS WHAT YOU MEANT BY CAVITY FLASHING?) / WEEP HOLES IF THEY WERE RESTRSPECTIVELY INSTALLED? 
> Termites aside have you thought about pouring a new slab with a rebate and constructing an inner framed wall.  
> NOT SURE WHAT YOU MEAN BY SLAB REBATE?  HAVE CONSIDERED INSTALLING A FRAMED WALL. 
> We've done this in the past, converting garages into 'habitable' rooms - there's many items to take into consideration like can a cavity flashing be cut into the brickwork and weep holes be incorporated, head height etc.
> Food for thought - I suppose it comes down to how important is the reno & how much will it add to the value of the home vs cost.

  
YES - THIS WILL ALL BE QUITE EXPENSIVE. MAY NOT BE WORTH IT. NEED TO DO SOME SUMS, BUT SINCE WE ARE ALREADY REPLACING THE SLAB, PUTTING IN TERMITE RETIC (I THINK) THEM, MAYBE WE SHOULD GO THE WHOLE HOG. 
THANKS SO MUCH AUSDESIGN - FINDING IT HARD TO GET THE CORRECT INFORMATION. EVEN THE BUILDER WHO CAME AROUND ON sATURDAY DIDN'T GIVE US MUCH INFO - GOT THE IDEA THAT THEY DON'T LIKE DOING THIS KIND OF WORK. 
FROG_HOPPER

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