# Forum Home Renovation Doors, Windows, Architraves & Skirts  Federation window sill repair(possible?)

## Sawdust Maker

Howdy all 
We have a Federation House in gloomy* downtown Sydney, built circa 1915-16 
It is pretty good nick except the front windows and expecially the sill. The photos tell the story 
The window faces north and thus gets blasted by the sun all day or most of it and it is pretty weathered - wasn't good when we bought the house. On the last paint (outsourced) the sill was puttied up and painted - looked good for a bit but then reverted to what it looks like now. 
essentially what is the best way to repair? 
I could bog it up but my experience is that there is still movement between bog and wood, and cracks and then deteriorates over time. 
Can I replace the sill or ar least the grotty bit? Seems almost impossible given how these windows are made. 
Or should I just replace the whole window?  (aluminium is not an option)     
all ideas and advice considered :Smilie:  
 Thanks  
*gawd I'm sick of this bloomin rain!

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## manofaus

could you remove the old sill delicately (perhaps cut in three pieces), cut the nails level which probably come up from underneath, then slip in a new sill, screw at an angle into the new sills through the sides, fill holes and tack on inside weatherstrip?

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## intertd6

it looks pretty sound to me, but needs to be properly stripped back, prepped & the best quality finishes used on it.
regards inter

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## jiggy

You need to make sure that you get back to good solid wood. Any "wet"wood should be removed with a chisel, the same with the flaky dry open grained stuff on top. Then apply your builders bog as usual .

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## Bloss

> it looks pretty sound to me, but needs to be properly stripped back, prepped & the best quality finishes used on it.
> regards inter

   :What he said:  I can't see any signs of rot although the centre panel looks as though it might have alittle. The sill is still a good solid bit of Aussie hardwood. My guess is whoever did the job just didn't take the care with the prep - and with these sorts of exposed timbers you must re-coat _before_ any signs of breakdown. The first signs of breakdown will be at the joints usually as that's where movement happens. 
On a North-facing aspect like yours that probably means a re-coat each 2-3 years, that might go to 5 if the prep is well done. That would be a light sand and two coats only - maybe an hour tops. 
This is where a DIYer can save money and do as good a job as a pro. Needs thorough stripping and sanding (maybe heat-gun, maybe multi-tool) then priming with a brand name external primer/undercoat, then filling - with high quality flexible external filler (_not_ builders bog IMO!), then external primer/undercoat, then two or three coats of final colour(s). 
On this job don't fall for the 'it doesn't need an undercoat' line commonly used in ads for various paints. Oil or acrylic primer/ undercoat - doesn't really matter (the science says that's so) although people have their preferences. Likewise for the top coats - many would say use oil based enamel, I reckon flexibility is better with acrylics, but again doesn't really matter - but use a name brand not el cheapo.

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