# Forum Home Renovation Stairs, Steps and Ramps  Timber over concrete stairs

## shane86

Hey after some advice on our reno, See images below of the current staircase. I want to clad them in timber obviously remove the handrails and replace them with something that looks more modern.  
Question is how would you go about this? im thinking of screwing all the treads in with a bracket on the underside, then glueing a riser in to hide the brackets. how would I then mount the stringers? or do I have my idea all wrong? 
Any advice would be appreciated 
Thanks

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## Bloss

Are the existing stairs concrete (they look it)? If so then remove the carpet and you can simply glue treads to the steps then cut, fit and glue risers. The steps can be any timber although a hardwood is best and should be 12-19mm thick - remembering that the nose has to come out sufficiently to cover the riser from the step below. That mean the top step is shorter by the thickness of the new treads, but if it is carpet at the top and you remove steps carpet and replace with timber then it will not be much. Not sure what you mean about the 'stringer' (ie: the stair sides) - there is none in the process I describe, or if your existing stairs a have wooden stringers they are unchanged. 
The rail is a trickier issue and must be safe - I would look at solutions which leave the existing rail in place - so for example removing the verticals except those supports which attach to the stairs and then use SS wire of glass or timber infills. If you want a completely new balustrade then I'd still be retaining the steel sections where it is fixed to the stairs, although you could also attached a completely new design to the side. The rail will be the most expensive bit IMO. 
You might find that adding 12mm-19mm night mean the rise is out of BCA specs too, but I doubt it as they can be from 115mm-190mm.

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## shane86

Yes by stringer I ment stair sides I was hoping to achieve a look of the attached pic. Im a bit uncertain about attching the rails myself, I wanted to get glass and Stainless rails but I think I might leave that part to the professionals. 
Thanks for the tip, I think that will make it a bit easier just gluing it all in place rather than worry about brackets and hiding screws etc. If i were to try and get the look of these with the timber length finishing off the ends what would you recommend to mount it? 
shane

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## Bloss

The faux stringer could also be glued too although screwed and covered with plugs would be better. Get someone to quote on the rails first - you might simply be able to cut the existing rails off flush, do all the timber work and have the rail people come in after as the concrete base means they can get suitable fixing. Be prepared for a shock - the quotes for this work will not be low . . . even though it is straightforward.

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## shane86

Yer I assumed they wouldnt be cheap but will make a good feature so it may be worth the coin ill get a few opinions on it before I start. By glue are you talking Liquid nails or is there another adhesive that would better suit the job?

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## Bloss

That or similar - and even liquid nails has a number of types - so look at what you are gluing to what and where and choose one. Sika has good stuff but usually a little more expensive - not really an issue on a small job.

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