# Forum Home Renovation Metalwork & Welding  Roller thingo

## PlatypusGardens

Not sure what to call it.
You'll see what I mean         
The legs need adjusting to be able to put the two pieces closer together.     
The torch stand needs to be a lot stronger.
Thought I could get away with aluminium, but nooooooo.
Too wobbly.

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## Marc

It's a revolva tanka cutta thingo. 
Very clever.

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## Spottiswoode

The things we build.... looks useful 
The when you've saved up some coins Multi Directional and Omni Wheels - Rotacaster - The Wheel 2.0

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## Marc

I would like to find a stairs trolley with brakes. Could make brakes for the one I have but it's not straight forward, will need to brake each of the 3 wheels _and_ the triangle where the wheels are attached.

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## PlatypusGardens

Yeh those sideways wheels are cool.
Seen forklifts or maybe it was one of those scissor lifts with something similar      

> I would like to find a stairs trolley with brakes. Could make brakes for the one I have but it's not straight forward, will need to brake each of the 3 wheels _and_ the triangle where the wheels are attached.

  
Hmm...electromagnetic brakes.....controlled via bluetooth and an app on your smartphone?    :Biggrin:

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## PlatypusGardens

Ok, new torch stand all done
A lot stronger than the first mock-up      
Found some tube that is the perfect size for the torch        
Adjustable for height.        
Could probably shorten the horizontal arm a bit but I don't think it'll make any difference.
It's pretty sturdy as it is.     
If  the manual correctly, the olasma cutter can be turned on by a click of the trigger and left "On" so I should be able to turn it on, rotate the tank and it'll keep cutting by itself and the tank falls away in two perfect halves......   
....but we'll see   :Rolleyes:

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## Marc

That looks cool, should work a treat. 
Brakes ... yes, that way or ... a fixed cone pushing inside the 3 wheels, sliding an a square tube ... mm I bet you could bang it together in no time ...  :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

Well....   :2thumbsup:     
It did wander off a bit, but overall still a way better cut that with a grinder rolling it around on the ground for a couple of minutes using up 2 cutting discs...     
Worth noting that the tank was not true round either.
I'd say there was at least 5-8mm out of round, not sure if its unevenness made it wander off or if the stands moved a bit.
Might be an idea to connect the two stands while cutting.  
Still, awesome first test.   :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

> Brakes ... ... a fixed cone pushing inside the 3 wheels, sliding an a square tube ...

  
Oh yes that sounds like it would work

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## Whitey66

You could make up an extra adjustable arm with a ball bearing centre that rests on the middle of one end of the tank. Then when you turn it, you can keep pressure towards the centre so you start and finish at exactly the same point.
You would have to connect the 2 frames while cutting, like you said. Something like a CV joint ball bearing welded to a bit of steel and coated in grease would be good to use for a centre because if it's not dead centre it won't matter, as long as the end of the tank is flat. It would also help to remove all of the insulation material where the wheels run for a straighter cut.
And if you get really carried away, how about a variable speed motor driving either the drum or the wheels?
This setup would work great for mig welding the tanks back together if you wanted to shorten them too.
I used to widen tractor wheels years ago by cutting them in half, then adding a centre piece.
I made up a rim turner out of an old sewing machine motor with foot treadle, with a skateboard wheel driving the rim.
I used it to cut the rim with an oxy torch, then weld it back together with a mig.
It was a very similar setup to yours, but mine had large bearings instead of wheels and the whole base was one piece with adjustable arms for the bearings.
The treadle gave you precise control of the speed and kept both hands free.

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## PlatypusGardens

> You could make up an extra adjustable arm with a ball bearing centre that rests on the middle of one end of the tank. Then when you turn it, you can keep pressure towards the centre so you start and finish at exactly the same point.

  
Don't quite understand what you mean....?  :Unsure:     

> You would have to connect the 2 frames while cutting, like you said. Something like a CV joint ball bearing welded to a bit of steel and coated in grease would be good to use for a centre because if it's not dead centre it won't matter, as long as the end of the tank is flat.

  yeh it needs something to hold everything in place.
Ideally, in a big shed, you'd have it mounted on a solid frame bolted to the floor....
No such luck here.   
The last cut I did, I kept the cut right on the wheels so it held together more.....made me think some wider wheel or roller at the cut end would be an idea maybe.   

> It would also help to remove all of the insulation material where the wheels run for a straighter cut.

  I did  :Wink:     

> And if you get really carried away, how about a variable speed motor driving either the drum or the wheels?

  i did consider a crank handle, sprockets and chain there for a while.....   :Fisch:

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## Uncle Bob

I think the cut run out was due to being at the end of the cut just at the point the tank was deciding to go different ways  :Smilie:  Maybe turn the swtich off for a second every 1/4 or 1/3 of a turn so it doesn't quite cut thru. Then just hit those "supporting" bits with the cutoff wheel.

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## PlatypusGardens

> I think the cut run out was due to being at the end of the cut just at the point the tank was deciding to go different ways  Maybe turn the swtich off for a second every 1/4 or 1/3 of a turn so it doesn't quite cut thru. Then just hit those "supporting" bits with the cutoff wheel.

  Yes definitely an option.

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## Marc

Of course you could weld a short rod at each end of the tank and sit the tank on two small tripods. If doing so you will have to use the Unkle Bob system of two points still attached.

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## PlatypusGardens

Man, the amount of gunk inside these tanks....  :Yuk:  
I thought they might be nice, easy and clean to work with.....dunno why I thought that.
By the time you've pulled the skin off, hacked the foam away, cut them in half, tipped out whatever is inside (one had tonnes of calcium) cleaned the rest of the foam, cut them to size, welded legs on....  
....I'm not convinced they're the best source for fire buckets....but will do for now.    :Unsure:

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## PlatypusGardens

mkII of this gadget coming soon    :Wink:

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## Marc

Can you subcontract the cleaning of the tank to some junkyard apprentice?  :Smilie:

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## Bros

> ....I'm not convinced they're the best source for fire buckets....but will do for now.

    Why don't you make them out of old 9kg gas bottles. I saw one at a market recently advertised to $195.

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## Bros

A bit like this.

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## Marc

I think they will turn a bit small but of course if they sell who cares right?

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## Bros

This is the one I made and I have had a number of people ask me where I got it.

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## Marc

You would think that since gas bottles of all sizes have a lifespan of 10 years and need to be decommissioned, there should be scores of discarded gas bottles. May be ringing the local gas distributor will bring in some leads. I know the forklift gas tanks are junked after 10 years and so do the LPG car tanks after xx number of years. An LPG converter gas thingy mechanic may know.  :Smilie:

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## Bros

What happens is people look at the expiry date and think it is finished and toss it away not knowing that swap and go take out of date gas bottles.
The dump is a good place to get them.

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## cyclic

> You would think that since gas bottles of all sizes have a lifespan of 10 years and need to be decommissioned, there should be scores of discarded gas bottles. May be ringing the local gas distributor will bring in some leads. I know the forklift gas tanks are junked after 10 years and so do the LPG car tanks after xx number of years. An LPG converter gas thingy mechanic may know.

  As already stated, if you know something about them you don't discard/dump them, you can get the car tanks tested and new valve fitted, and they are then good for another 10 years.
Most 8-9kg bottles end up at the tip then they are taken to scrap yards and shredded for scrap steel, of course the trouble is the tips will not sell them even though some are still in date and in some cases, are still full.
And of course, again as stated, if you rock up to the swap and go when they are busy, then it does not matter what date is on them because they let you swap them sight unseen, although you usually have to lie about the use by date when they ask you.
I used to take the 40kg bottle from home and fill it up at the servo, only trouble was the servo car gas is not refined as the home gas, so all the bottoms of the pots went black.

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## Bros

> And of course, again as stated, if you rock up to the swap and go when they are busy, then it does not matter what date is on them because they let you swap them sight unseen, although you usually have to lie about the use by date when they ask you.
> .

  You don't even have to do that. Provided it is not excessively rusted, has the bottom ring and top collar intact and valve it can be exchanged no questions asked. How to Swap LPG Gas Bottles | ELGAS - LPG Gas for Home & Business

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## cyclic

> You don't even have to do that. Provided it is not excessively rusted, has the bottom ring and top collar intact and valve it can be exchanged no questions asked. How to Swap LPG Gas Bottles | ELGAS - LPG Gas for Home & Business

  Hmmm, it appears to have changed, but be careful at Bunnings, mate went in and swapped three 9kg bottles, and 2 months later when he went to fit 2 to his caravan, he found they were 8kg not 9kg.

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## ringtail

Don't know how I missed this thread PG. Looking good though. Check this vid out.  Makes me want to get tiggy with it  :Biggrin:  . This guy is a gun. Presents well too. Not as entertaining as chuckE2009 though.   https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CXsd0AmWueU

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## PlatypusGardens

> Why don't you make them out of old 9kg gas bottles.

  
The ones I make are a bit bigger         
450-700mm dia  
Took 6 to the markets yesterday, sold 5 and got orders for another big one.
Most people wanted them as big as possible    :Smilie:

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## ringtail

How much do you get for them for PG ?

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## PlatypusGardens

$100

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## ringtail

Sweet !

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## Marc

I have been welding with core wire since I ran out of gas. Now I have the gas but the bottle is sitting in a corner of the shed. I am taken by this core wire thingy. Great penetration, real hot. Only thing I seem to burn more tips than usual. Clearly needs more wire speed than solid wire, but a real good weld. May be not for thin stuff but great for 3mm and up.

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## ringtail

Certainly turns a baby welder into something a bit more capable and turns a decent welder into an animal. If one is not doing ultra critical appearance work then fluxcore is the go for sure. I won't be going back to gas anytime soon as most of my welding is done in the field. Even in the workshop it can get too breezy for gas. At least with fluxcore I can crank the fan  up and blow all the fumes away. I want to stick some 1.2 in to the transmig 250 and see what it can do.

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## lazydays

MMmmmmmmm....what about a rocket stove in the middle??? A combination of either fire or both together.

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## Marc

With 1.2 you will probably weld one inch in 3 passes. 
As far as looks, the weld look real good once you brush the dust off.

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## ringtail

Yep, would be some high numbers on the wire speed  :Biggrin:

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## Marc

Well, 20v all the way or more. Why is it that I cook more tips than usual?

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## PlatypusGardens

Hmm what was this thread about again?   :Handball:

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## phild01

> Well, 20v all the way or more. Why is it that I cook more tips than usual?

  The cooked tips, is that when the wire arcs the inside of the tip?
Reading the above makes me feel I an not missing out by not using gas, have only ever been using fluxcore.

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## Marc

Yes, that is what I mean, sorry probably made up a colloquialism that does not exist. 
I change  4 or max 5 per big roll of solid wire.
I have already changed 3 tips and have used perhaps one kilo of flux cored wire. 
Sorry PG, the roller thingo ... how is that going?  :Biggrin:

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## ringtail

Sorry PG  :Biggrin: . Marc , what do the tips look like or what are they doing or not doing ? Some of mine look bloody awful but they don't need to be changed as long as they feed wire fine. I'll only change one if I get a bad strike and it fuses inside the tip. Maybe your CTTWD is too little ? Are you cutting the wire before each and every weld ?

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## PlatypusGardens

Haha all good.
carry on 
i'll start a new thread for roller mkII   :Smilie:

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## phild01

> Haha all good.
> carry on 
> i'll start a new thread for roller mkII

  Ah good....    

> Are you cutting the wire before each and every weld ?

  ...so is it best to nip the wire before each weld then?

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## ringtail

Yep. Solid wire too. You want a nice clean point so cut at angle with side cutters. Fluxcore gets a little bit of fluxy crud on the tip so even more important for a good arc strike.

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## phild01

Will do then, thanks..

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## ringtail

Heaps don't, heaps do. Just laziness stopping the don'ts from the do's

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## Marc

I cut the wire every time, I keep the cutter in the apron. At first I had the wire speed too low the same way the solid wire set up and so burned the old tip that had seen many kilos of solid wire. However the new tip lasted just an hour or so. The wire welded inside the tip. OK, bad luck. Next one increased the speed, better for a while and then bang again. I think I need to keep the torch further away then with solid.

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## ringtail

Increase your contact tip to work distance and increase your wire speed a bit. Fluxcore has a heavy deposition rate as you know. Smash it in there  :Biggrin: . Try it on thin stuff too. you will be surprised. As always, practice make perfect. On really thin stuff like 1 or 1.2 mm you just need to stop a few times to prevent burning through. But, fluxcore has a heavy deposition rate as you know, so you can move faster than with solid wire.  :Wink: . Welding thick to thin just shoot the arc on the thick and weave down or across on to the thin or in position the work so gravity does it for you. What's this apron you speak of ?  :Tongue:

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## PlatypusGardens

> What's this apron you speak of ?

  big leather one probably

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## Marc

Ha ha, not too far off, take away the belt and the beard and a bit of hair too ...  and no I am not 2m toll.
I use a leather apron, the times I don't, I burn holes in my clothes. Once I set myself on fire cutting with the grinder, ha ha. 
The hammer hand I use an MMA fingerless leather glove. I am so used to it that it feels like I don't have anything. The left has the usual welding glove, good for welding and forging and if it gets too hot you can always shake it off a bit and wait for the leather to cool down.  
Yes, I thought I was too close. 
I am surprised at the finish I get. I use a Transmig 250 but mine is not electronic, just a monster transformer. I venture that my flux core weld is better than my shielded weld. Since I am old school stick welder and only took to MIG recently I suppose I am not doing the shielded wire weld any justice. 
I remember the first time I ran out of gas, the desk jockey that sold me the welder also sold me a roll of cored wire so I thanked my fortune and quickly change over only to be swamped by a shower of sparks and smoke and a horrible weld. 
Who can possible use this rubbish I thought and gave up for the day. 
Of course I forgot to invert the polarity ...  :Rofl5:   
One more advantage of cored wire is that it burns through galvanised steel with ease. 
I have some 25 meters of balustrade coming up mostly 25x25x1.5  with some solid 10x10 twisted bars thrown in for looks. I'll go back to solid wire for that one but will use gasless wire for any heavy welding from now on for sure unless it requires special rods and for that I have a vintage 3 phase Lincoln rotary welder that is patiently waiting for her turn ....  :Smilie:

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## PlatypusGardens

> Ha ha, not too far off, take away the belt and the beard and a bit of hair too ...  and no I am not 2m

  Right, but your arms are as muscular as his then?   :Rofl5:

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## Marc

Only when I am pissed off ha ha

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## ringtail

Sounds like your transmig is the same as mine. I don't even have a volt gauge on mine. Just 1-4 coarse voltage and 1-4 fine voltage and the 1-10 wire feed. Probably should retro fit a voltage gauge I guess.

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## Marc

Mine is retrofitted. Coarse is 1-4, fine is 1-4 and wire is 1-20
If you put a gauge, make sure it is one that stays on. Mine only shows the values as you weld, and as soon as you stop it goes to zero. I wonder if there is some condensor or something that can keep the thing on for a bit.  
On another topic, I realised today that my cold saw is cutting crooked. Not by much, but enough to annoy. There are no adjustment possible it is a massive block of cast, so may be just may be it is the saw that is blunt on one side. Sharpening it should tell.

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## ringtail

Cold saw ? That's a bit fancy.  :Biggrin:

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## phild01

Bet it was a cash converters buy!  :Biggrin:

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## Marc

Nee, not CC, just a machinery house one made in Taiwan. Makes life easier.

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## ringtail

Still, $1500 ! = fancy

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